How to make shelving in a vegetable pit. Do-it-yourself vegetable pit: stages and construction technology. Conducting ventilation and air ducts

You will always need a vegetable pit in the garage, because you need to store food. This is actually quite a convenient place.

And you don’t need to think about how to insulate a vegetable pit in the garage, because it is located below ground level and here there will be the most optimal temperature. Today we will tell you how to build a vegetable pit in the garage according to all the rules and provide for everything.

You can also look at photos and videos on this topic and understand what is being done and how.

Vegetable pit: manufacturing features

Construction of a vegetable pit in the garage begins with a choice right place, at which level groundwater will be correspondingly lower than the expected hole, because this important condition. If there is no such place, then you will need to think about waterproofing (see).

After all, garages, as a rule, do not have large area and there won't be much choice locally. All the work will be done with your own hands and therefore everything must be done efficiently and correctly.

Attention: The price of the structure will depend on direct costs. Therefore, it is better when groundwater is located as far away as possible.

So:

  • As soon as the water issue is resolved, you can begin to dig a pit, which naturally must have the required dimensions, a trench is made in it for the foundation, after which crushed stone is added. All this needs to be compacted and concreted.
  • Now you need to lay out the walls one and a half bricks thick, coating them with hot bitumen. Here we need to make high-quality masonry. Remember that there will be a machine on the ceiling of the pit and it should not be carried out.
  • If you wish, you can simply concrete the ceiling, as many owners often do.

Attention: As soon as you start installing the ceiling, you must not forget that you need to leave room for a crawl space, ventilation holes, so be extremely careful. You should also remember about positioning the car. The wheelset should run as far away from the hatch as possible.

  • The masonry in this version is done on cement mortar. To do this, for example for M300, it is necessary to provide a ratio of sand and cement of 3/1.
  • When laying bricks, you need to pay attention to the dressing. The seam should not match. Otherwise, the structure will not last long.
  • After laying the walls, let them dry completely. And after that we proceed to making the ceiling. For this we need a channel and fittings. Let’s also not forget about the shalevka. It will be needed for formwork.
  • We cut the shalevka into a size equal to the width of the pit. Preferably without a gap.
  • We post it on flat plane and knock it into the shield.
  • Now we will need to make supports. Any logs are best for this.
  • We put up a shield and support it with logs. We did it wooden ceiling in the hole.
  • Now we cut the channel and reinforcement into right size. This is done using a grinder and a cutting wheel.
  • We place a channel around the perimeter of the pit and weld it together.

Attention: The vegetable pit in the garage must have an entrance. It is made in the form of a hatch. Therefore, think about the dimensions in advance and prepare edged board. It will be needed for the entrance equipment.

  • After making the frame from the channel, we need to make a frame for the hatch. It is made from the 50th corner. You will then have a recess of 50 mm. This is just right for a plank hatch.
  • We place reinforcement on the channel trim. After this, we install the frame for the hatch and weld the entire assembly.
  • Now we make concrete. Just mix the solution with crushed stone. It should not be thick, all the pores should be filled and there should be no air pockets in the ceiling.
  • Fill the grate and let it all dry out for a couple of days. After this, a screed is made along the upper part.
  • If you have a harsh winter. Then it’s worth insulating the ceiling of the pit. The top just needs to be covered with foam plastic or mineral wool. Then the cold will definitely not penetrate.

Ventilation and its features

It is best to create either a supply or exhaust ventilation, as these options are great for that. It is necessary to use special pipes that must have the required diameter.

  • You will need to install valves on the pipes, they are needed to regulate the air flow, and it is important to note that you will need to close the upper end of the inlet with a mesh, so mice, rats and other rodents will not enter the pit, so this condition is also the most important.
  • I would like to add that as for the upper end of the hood, it needs to be equipped with an umbrella, it will protect the room from atmospheric precipitation, and as for the space between the covers, know that it is usually insulated with materials such as polystyrene foam or sawdust.
  • Here you decide for yourself what to do; in any case, when carrying out such work, you will know for sure that you are doing everything efficiently and effectively. And over time, you will be able to decide on the choice of insulation; the main thing you need to remember is that you must take care of the cold and think about good ventilation, because only then will your reserves please you in excellent condition.
Waterproofing If the groundwater level is high in the place where you want to build a hole, then in any case, you will need to create a circular drainage system, remember this. To enhance waterproofing, the walls of the cellar can be laid with two layers of slate.
Thermal insulation If you would like to know about ideal insulation of cellar walls (see), then it is best to carry out such work on both sides, i.e. with external and internal. But here external insulation is not always possible, because the hole may appear after the object has already been built, which means that it will only be necessary to carry out internal insulation, the work can be done with one or another tile insulation that is resistant to high humidity.
Floor arrangement You must place crushed stone and sand at the bottom of the pit; the cushion you receive must be filled with hot bitumen, or any similar material.

Installing a hood in an inspection pit

If there is no vegetable pit, but you regularly repair your car, then ventilation in the inspection pit is necessary; it, in turn, can be either natural or forced (see), there are no special restrictions here. All this must be taken into account during the construction of the garage.

Attention: If, inspection hole is used constantly, then know that its ventilation must be a prerequisite. To do this you can set it to winter period time, a small fan, you can also install a special hood system.

Conclusion

As a rule, many men want to use the garage for all their needs, not only for repairing their car, but also for storing vegetables and pickles; this room also plays the role of a workshop (see). This means that you definitely need to think about creating a hood in the garage, ventilating the vegetable pit, thus eliminating dampness and cold, providing the room with only fresh air.

You now know how to make a vegetable pit in the garage and the instructions will help you with this. The most important thing here is to do everything efficiently. Then the car will be safe and the food will not spoil.

At the end of the gardening period, the task arises long-term storage vitamin preparations. It’s easy to get a suitable place to place your harvest by equipping a vegetable pit - it can be placed under the house, in the basement, garage, and even under the loggia. Your supplies will remain fresh for a long time, without the need for any energy consumption. It is quite possible to set up such a storage for vegetables yourself, and you can use the most simple tools and materials.

    • Stages of work
    • Metal vegetable pit
  • Vegetable pit - photo
  • Vegetable pit - video

Advantages of equipping a vegetable pit

Fruit and vegetable products grown by yourself or purchased for the winter will need to be stored somewhere. No refrigerator can accommodate several boxes of onions and carrots or bags of potatoes. It is possible to make your life easier by arranging a convenient cellar for storing vegetables - in a similar way, you can organize a storage space in natural conditions, with a certain microclimate. In such storage, the crop will remain fresh for a long time.

The most convenient to use is the so-called underground - a vegetable pit in the house or garage, because it will not take up extra bed on the site, besides, using such a storage for vitamin preparations, including in the cold, will be much more convenient than a cellar on the street.

Site selection and subsequent planning

First, you will need to decide on the location where you plan to build a vegetable pit. Traditionally, it is installed under a storage room in a private house or under a garden house. For residents apartment buildings It is possible to organize a convenient storage space by equipping a vegetable pit in the garage.

It is important to note that despite the apparent simplicity of the design, simply digging a pit is not enough to arrange this type of cellar. If you are interested in information on how to make a vegetable pit, you need to take into account the following information.

When planning construction, it is necessary to take into account a number of points:

  • In order not to damage an electrical cable or pipe accidentally lying in the ground, you will need to make sure that there are no utility lines laid in this location. From this point of view, it is more convenient to equip a hole in the basement or garage;
  • it is necessary to determine the characteristics of the soil - it is important to collect information about the level of groundwater at the planned construction site (for this you may need to seek help from a specialist). In order for the structure to be sufficiently durable, it is necessary to select a place with a groundwater level below the bottom of the planned storage facility - at least half a meter. If they are located close enough, ignore this problem not worth it - in this case you will need to equip reliable system waterproofing (otherwise you can end up with a vegetable pit that is regularly flooded with water). Such an arrangement will entail significant financial and labor costs, and water may still find a loophole and eventually seep inside;
  • in the vegetable storehouse you will need to ensure suitable temperature and humidity conditions. So that the fruits do not wrinkle or dry out, a humidity of 85-95% is optimal, as well as temperature regime slightly above zero (2 to 5°C). Storage under these conditions will protect products from spoilage and allow them to retain maximum nutrients. A thermometer placed there will help you monitor the temperature in the vegetable pit;
  • to ensure influx fresh air in the storage facility, it is necessary to equip it with ventilation - bring the supply and exhaust pipes outside;
  • In addition, to prevent vegetables from sprouting during storage, the room must be kept dark.

How to build a vegetable pit with your own hands

Having decided on the most suitable place for a vegetable storage facility, you will need to choose a suitable project. You can build a vegetable pit in the garage with your own hands next to inspection hole, separating them with a partition. According to personal preferences and financial capabilities, wood can be used to build a vegetable pit, concrete plates or brick. Metal is less suitable, since in such a cellar it will be quite difficult to establish a suitable temperature regime.

Next, you will need to draw a diagram of the structure of the future vegetable storage in order to calculate the quantity necessary materials. After this, you can begin to carry out work. It is not difficult to build such a vegetable pit with your own hands.

In this case, you will need to plan and arrange:

  • Reliable waterproofing - in the case when groundwater lies close to the level of the bottom of the vegetable pit, it will be necessary to organize a circular drainage system. If there are additional foundation walls, they must also be waterproofed. For example, the walls of a vegetable storage can be made of two layers of slate with a layer of bitumen.
  • Insulation - walls and ceilings are usually built from brick or concrete blocks. At first glance, this material seems impenetrable - however, concrete includes many microcracks through which moisture can penetrate into the vegetable pit. Wet slabs freeze in cold weather, so insulation will be required. To insulate a vegetable pit you can use following materials:
    • heated bitumen, applied in two layers, will help insulate the vegetable pit and create reliable waterproofing of the ceiling;
    • glass wool - after preliminary installation of vapor and waterproofing, using of this material it is easy to properly insulate the walls and ceiling (then the glass wool surface should be covered with slate or clapboard);
    • wooden blocks(logs) or insulation boards (for example, penoplex) - they should be secured with a drill using self-tapping screws, and then the cracks and joints should be processed polyurethane foam;
    • solution based on a mixture of sawdust and cement at a ratio of 1:8. This mixture should be applied to the walls, as well as the ceiling of the vegetable pit, in a layer of 15-20 cm. After waiting for the insulating coating to dry completely, after a few days it should be plastered;
    • heat insulating paint– its 1 mm layer will create insulation for a vegetable pit, similar to the installation mineral wool 5 cm thick.
  • Ventilation providing a suitable microclimate in the storage. The simplest option is to place two pipes in different corners of the vegetable pit, which will provide supply and exhaust ventilation to the room. For this, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes with a diameter of 0.1-0.15 m. The supply pipe should be placed in such a way that it starts at a height of 0.2 m from the floor surface, and at the same time rises from the outside above the ceiling of the vegetable pit (also 0.2 m). The exhaust pipe should be led into the underground room under the ceiling and brought out above the roof as high as possible (at least 0.5 m above the roof of the storage room or garage). By installing valves at the ends of the pipes, it will be possible in the future to regulate the power of the air flow. To prevent pests from entering, cover the air ducts with fine mesh metal mesh. To protect against precipitation, special umbrella caps should be secured over the outer ends of the pipes.


  • Stages of work

    The sequence of actions for the construction and arrangement of a vegetable pit may look like this:

    • first you need to dig a pit with dimensions exceeding the planned ones by 0.5 m. The depth of the pit for storing vegetables is usually from 1.8 (optimally - at least 2.5) to 3 m. Next, you should dig a trench under the foundation;
    • to equip the base of a vegetable pit, it is necessary to level the bottom of the pit and lay a cushion from a layer of broken brick and crushed stone, or crushed stone and sand (10 and 5 cm, respectively). Each layer should be compacted thoroughly;
    • the prepared base will need to be filled with heated bitumen. Next you will need to install metal fittings and perform concrete screed. In addition, the base of the vegetable pit can be filled with concrete, having previously installed a layer below waterproofing material(For example, polyethylene film). Such a base will protect the storage from moisture penetration. Sometimes the floor of the vegetable pit is covered with wooden boards;

    • Next you need to build walls. To do this, you can lay brickwork the thickness of a brick or half a brick, or build concrete walls. In this case, the following must be taken into account - in order for the walls of the vegetable storage to effectively resist the lateral pressure characteristic of an earthen pit, the concrete should be tied with rods steel reinforcement;
    • Next you will need to coat the walls with hot bitumen. In addition, you can insulate them by installing a layer of suitable thermal insulation material. After this you can start finishing walls - you will need to reinforce them with mounting mesh and plaster them;

    • the ceiling of the pit can be made of bricks laid on boards - or you will need to build concrete floors, preparing the formwork, installing a frame of reinforcement into it and filling it with concrete. The ceiling should be provided with openings for ventilation openings, as well as space for drainage equipment, and a stop for the lid should be installed. It is recommended to place the hole in the middle of the ceiling - in this case, it will remain in the hole more space for arranging racks and shelves along the walls;
    • Next, you need to insulate the ceiling by coating it with bitumen and laying a suitable thermal insulation material(for example, foam plastic, slag or expanded clay).


    To arrange a vegetable pit, you can build shelves from boards or install plastic racks, and also place boxes stacked on top of each other in it.

    Metal vegetable pit

    In the presence of high level underground water on the site, you can equip a vegetable pit made of metal. To do this, it is best to use a ready-made container - for example, purchase part of a tank. In addition, you can use a piece gas pipe with a diameter of 1.8 m (its design provides a waterproofing layer - you just need to weld the ends, and the container for equipping a place for storing vegetables will be ready). Next, you should dig a pit of a suitable size. Having placed the prepared container in it, drainage drains should be installed vertically on the sides of it. PVC pipes with a diameter of at least 0.2 m, and fill the space with a sand-gravel mixture. This measure will prevent the container from moving under the influence of groundwater.

    If in the future drainage pipes water will appear and will need to be pumped out using a pump. When arranging a metal vegetable pit Special attention needs to be given supply and exhaust ventilation- otherwise, condensation will accumulate at the bottom, which can have a detrimental effect on the condition of the vegetables placed in it for storage. The pipes should be equipped with dampers and welded, placing them under the ceiling of the container, so that the exhaust pipe rises above it by 3 m, and the supply pipe by 1 m. By placing a container with salt in such a hole, you can significantly reduce the humidity of the air inside. The ceiling of such a storage facility will need to be insulated.

    Vegetable pit - photo


    User engineer Nikolay Zagrebin I made an excellent vegetable pit in my homeland, in the village. On a forum where people are busy and production of cellars using nanotechnology, , , usual good vegetable pit, at first glance, you won’t surprise anyone. However, everyone liked Nikolai's cellar. The fact is that he built it from materials that would be found in any village - a carriage and a small cart. It took several meters of pipes to build various diameters, sheets of used slate, a sheet of iron and, as insulation, a sheet of foam plastic.

    Nikolai, with the help of his brother, dug a 2x2x2 hole, welded a frame from pipes, and lined the inside of the cellar with used slate sheets. The pipes were painted. A sheet of iron was placed on top, covered with two sheets of foam plastic 50mm thick, and covered with a layer of earth about 3 cm.

    Nikolay did not dig in the vertical pipes or place them on anything - there is a lower perimeter of the pipes that will protect the vertical pipes from subsidence. vertical pipe(it is installed in the middle for fastening shelves) the engineer installed it on metal plate size 12x12cm.

    The cellar successfully overwintered for several years. The design turned out to be quite viable. If you decide to adopt it, keep this in mind: if you make holes in two opposite pipe-racks, one at floor level, the other at the ceiling, and extend them outward, then there will be a supply and exhaust system in your cellar. Insulate the openings outside to prevent frost from forming inside in winter. And one more thing: before backfilling, do not forget to lay a corrugated cable channel for wiring the light bulbs.

    Zagrebin:

    - I decided to make a hole from what I had. I bought the pipes in chermed, and the slate was old, 7-wave, 1.7 m long. In order to make the most of the space above the pit, I decided to make a gazebo (a roof above the pit is still needed). Before you start making the same pit, I will tell you about its disadvantages:

    1. In winter, frost forms on the ceiling and upper pipes; accordingly, it all then melts and drips onto the vegetables.

    2. The pipes rust, despite being coated with mastic.

    3. It is necessary to check and insulate the upper part of the pit, since the soil along the walls sags and places unprotected from the cold appear.

    There are many more advantages, and today I would make exactly the same pit.


    The pit becomes a full-fledged cellar after installing shelves and organizing a vegetable storage system. As a rule, the width of the shelves in the user’s cellar is a multiple of three-liter jars, and the height, as they say on the forum, is “a matter of religion”: the lower ones are made in such a way that they fit plastic boxes for storing root vegetables, the third and higher - 8-10 centimeters to the height of a two- or three-liter jar.

    Material for shelves: corners for vertical and horizontal parts, boards for shelves 30-35 cm long, placed across (such boards are easy to find, even for free).

    The boards for the shelves will need to be dried and treated, for example, with sauna varnish.

    a40:


    - I use shelves 45 cm wide. 50 would be better. I think this is optimal size. Fits three 3-liter jars or four to five smaller cans. From wider shelves it will no longer be convenient to reach the outermost row.

    The height is equal to the height of a three-liter bottle + 5 cm. It’s normal as is. +10 cm would be a little better, no more needed.

    Wend

    I I divided the two-meter height of the cellar into three parts with shelves, so that, if anything happens, a bag could be placed there. And for three-liter cans he provided niches in brickwork, four niches for six cans each.

    Over time, many forum members began to replace wooden shelves with ready-made plastic racks - some specifically waited for sales in hardware stores and construction supermarkets. Wood is still a short-lived material: there have been cases when shelves collapsed, cans broke, and workpieces disappeared.

    VVViktor:

    - For a long time I used shelving made of metal corner With wooden shelves. But whatever you cover the tree with, there is moisture in the cellar, which means inevitable mold. It ended up that I used the corner for other needs, wood for firewood, and instead bought three plastic shelving 500 mm deep and 1000 mm wide. The shelf height of 400 mm allows you not only to squeeze in a jar, but also to place smaller jars in the second row. Shelves - how many you can buy. You can find it in any construction supermarket.

    Current legislation will allow you to build a cellar on garden plot(up to eight square meters). Read about how to do this in this. This one will introduce you to the many types of cellars: choose the one that suits you. By the way, the cellar can be equipped with a lift, this is especially important for older people - design options are discussed on the forum. And here is an excellent video about building a cellar in conditions of high groundwater: this problem can be solved, and, importantly, on our own.

    Grown with my own hands or fruits and vegetables purchased for the winter will need to be stored somewhere. No refrigerator can hold several boxes of carrots and onions or bags of potatoes.

    It is possible to make your life easier by arranging a special caisson cellar for vegetables - in this way you can easily organize a place for storing vegetables in natural conditions, with the necessary microclimate. In this storage, the crop will remain fresh for quite a long time.

    The most comfortable to use is an underground caisson - a vegetable pit in the garage, since it will not take up additional space on plot of land. In addition, using such storage will be much more convenient than .

    The structure of the vegetable pit is as follows.

    Building a cellar with your own hands may at first seem very challenging task, however, even an inexperienced builder can handle it. The most difficult step will be choosing a suitable location.

    Previously it was believed that a caisson cellar could only be located under the house, or on summer cottage. However, in reality it can be organized anywhere, even in the garage. Therefore, apartment owners do not have to give up storing their crops.

    Before you start building a vegetable pit, you should consider the following important issues:

    • Checking availability of all necessary engineering communications. If you are planning within the city, be sure to ensure that you do not touch electrical cables, gas lines, or pipelines. In this regard, it is much better to make a hole in a finished room - a cellar or garage.
    • Soil study. Typically, you will need the help of an expert to complete this step. It will help establish the soil characteristics and water level. You cannot ignore these factors, because otherwise you run a high risk of getting a frequently flooded vegetable pit. Ideally, the water should lie well below the intended bottom of the garden storage, otherwise you will need a complex system waterproofing etc. Behind the pit, this will entail large time and financial costs. Overwhelming majority professional builders They believe that even waterproofing a vegetable pit will not help - sooner or later, water will seep into the pit.
    • Creating a project. Before starting construction, you need to spend time calculating the area of ​​the future storage facility, as well as the diagram. This will reduce possible shortcomings and significantly simplify your work.

    Many people think that a pit for storing vegetables and a caisson cellar are interchangeable concepts. This statement is true, but the cellar is still much more complex structure, which you can’t always do yourself.

    A small vegetable storage can be made in the garage or basement. The only condition is the tightness and dryness of the selected room.

    Construction stages

    If you equip the constructed pit on an open plot of land, and not in ready garage or basement, first dig a pit required sizes.

    Digging a hole for storing fruits and vegetables is not difficult. It is much more difficult to equip it correctly. When constructing a vegetable storage facility, it is necessary to take into account the issues of arranging walls and floors, organizing hydro- and thermal insulation, and ensuring ventilation.

    Arrangement of floors, walls, ceilings

    How to make a vegetable pit from concrete rings?At the bottom of the vegetable pit in the garage, 10 cm of crushed stone and 15 cm of sand are laid from concrete rings. Each layer must be compacted well. After preparation, all layers should be filled with bitumen or another substance with similar properties.

    Ideally, it is better to pour a slab of reinforced concrete, having previously laid a layer. If this option is not possible, then .

    After this, you should tackle the ceiling and walls. Alternatively, the walls can be made of brick. In this case, it is recommended to lay out the ceiling of the pit with a vault, laying bricks on special templates made of boards.

    In addition, you can do . To do this, you need to prepare wooden formwork and then lay the reinforcement cage inside.

    When working with the ceiling, you should leave a special place for a crawl space. It is better to make it in the middle of the ceiling. This way you will have enough space for shelving. In place of the hole, you need to install a special stop for the lid.

    When the ceiling is completely ready, it needs to be insulated. To do this, coat it with disinfectant bitumen and insulate it with insulating material (expanded clay, polystyrene foam or slag). Everything needs to be dried. You can find out how to dry it better on the Internet.

    Waterproofing

    Good waterproofing - required condition. This issue must be approached especially seriously if. In this case, you will have to create a circular drainage system.

    Thermal insulation

    How to insulate a vegetable pit?

    Natural vegetables do not tolerate strong temperature changes. Sudden warming can lead to rotting and various diseases (disinfection is needed), and frosts will cause taste changes. Therefore, you must ensure that your storage is constantly maintained normal temperature. The easiest way to do this is through proper thermal insulation.

    It is advisable to insulate the walls on both sides - internal and external. But a DIY vegetable pit made of plastic often goes to the owner of an already built one, so external insulation of a vegetable pit is simply impossible. Then all that remains is to insulate its internal walls.

    This work can be done with your own hands using slab insulation. Don't forget to make sure it is moisture resistant. Experts believe that best choice there will be polystyrene foam.

    Providing ventilation

    Constant will help maintain the correct microclimate in the storage. Therefore, the final stage of construction should be the organization of a high-quality ventilation system in a vegetable pit in a garage made of concrete rings.

    The simplest option that you can do yourself is natural ventilation vegetable pit through two pipes. One of them will be a supply, and the second will be an exhaust. They must be placed at different heights in opposite corners of the cellar. You can use any pipes that you have, but for a pit for storing vegetables, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes with a diameter of about 15 cm are more suitable.

    The supply pipe should start 20 cm from the floor and exit out at a height of 20 cm above the level of the cellar lid. The exhaust pipe should start at the ceiling and exit as high as possible above the roof of the room itself.

    Valves must be installed on the pipes in the pits to regulate the air flow. In order to protect the storage from pests, one end supply air duct covered with a metal mesh. To protect from precipitation, the upper end of the exhaust pipe is placed under an umbrella cap.

    The difference in pressure and temperature will allow constant air exchange.

    Installation of shelving

    Due to the fact that the area of ​​the pit is often small, it is worthwhile to approach the organization of its space wisely. Experience has shown that a system of special shelving is perfect for storing food and crops.

    Considering the specific microclimate of the cellar, many homeowners purposefully build shelving from wood (good disinfection). IN in this case It is worth giving preference to pine, because due to its special qualities it will protect products from rot and pests (good disinfection).

    Some owners prefer metal or PVC (using a plastic ring), but this does not solve the important problem of condensation. Once formed on the shelves, it will not be absorbed, but will fall directly onto your supplies.

    It is often not possible to find ready-made furniture that would fit perfectly into the dimensions of the pit. There are two solutions here. First of all, you can make the shelves yourself, or order them according to individual sketches.

    In addition, you can abandon the idea of ​​racks and prefer drawers. They can be filled with products and placed on top of each other. This way they won't take up too much space.

    A do-it-yourself pit made of concrete rings in the garage for storing crops is a building that you can build with your own hands. The main conditions for successful storage of food are dryness (read -), as well as the absence of strong temperature changes.

    Hello! Today, like , let’s talk about how to build a vegetable pit. There are many types of storage for vegetables: cellars, cellars with a cellar, pantries, basements, .... But most of us build a vegetable pit in a pantry, garage, under a loggia, in garden houses, … .

    All of them must meet the same requirements: be dry, well insulated and have good ventilation. All! The rest, one might say, is a matter of technique.

    Let's start in order - with the main thing. The main thing, in my opinion, is to choose a site where the groundwater level is below the floor of the proposed hole. If not, then it is better to abandon construction immediately. In my opinion, even a caisson cannot help you out. The first is large financial and construction costs. Secondly, water will still find a loophole over time. Even the same condensation.

    Getting ahead of “events”, I want to say that try to avoid using metal in open structures your storage.

    We've sorted out the water. Next, we dig a pit of the required size. In the pit we make a trench under the foundation, pour crushed stone (10 cm) and sand (5 cm) into it. We compact and concrete. Just in case, it would be good to make a pit about 0.5 m deep. It is also better to concrete the floor with a layer of 5 cm, laying it with plastic film.

    Next, we lay out the walls half a brick thick and coat them on the outside with hot bitumen. It is better to make the ceiling in the form of a brick vault, laying the bricks edgewise according to a template made from a board. You can simply concrete the ceiling. To do this, we make flooring from boards on required height, lay roofing material on it, lay reinforcement and concrete.

    When installing the ceiling, do not forget to leave room for a crawl space, with a stop for the lid and ventilation holes. We coat the finished ceiling with bitumen and thoroughly insulate it with polystyrene foam, slag, expanded clay, ... and concrete it.

    Now about ventilation. I advise making separate supply and exhaust ventilation, installing them in the corners diagonally across the pit. It is better to use asbestos-cement or plastic pipes with a diameter of 10 -15 cm. One pipe (inlet) starts 20 cm from the floor of the pit and extends 20 cm above the level of the top cover of the manhole. The second pipe (exhaust) starts from the ceiling of the pit and extends 0.5 m above the roof level of the storage room (garage, ...).

    It is advisable to install valves on the pipes to regulate the air flow. Cover the upper end of the inlet with a mesh to prevent mice from entering your hole... Equip the upper end of the hood with an umbrella to protect it from precipitation. The space between the lids can be insulated with polystyrene foam, bags of hay, sawdust, .... For several years I used a bag of dried leaves.



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