It is hard to imagine country cottage without a civil toilet and a cozy bathroom. But not every village is equipped with a waste collection system. Therefore, sewerage in a private house is carried out separately. Don't know which system to choose? This article will tell you about all the features of sewerage in a private house.
We described possible ways organization of waste collection, identified their features of arrangement and use. And also brought step-by-step instructions for drawing up a project, installing a sewer pipeline, installing a septic tank and a drainage well.
There are several types of waste collection systems: central, storage, drainage, filtration.
Central. The house's waste pipe is connected to the general sewer network, through which organic waste is collected in the city sewer.
Depending on the distance of the central pipeline to the house, a decision is made on the advisability of using an autonomous or central system sewer
Accumulation system- modern prototype. The main difference is the complete sealing of the waste collection point. It can be: concrete, brick, metal, plastic. To do this, a ditch for the container is dug on a plot of land remote from the residential building.
The principle of operation of the storage system is reduced to the discharge of organic compounds into a sealed container. When it is full, the contents are pumped out sewage treatment plant by car.
This scheme for installing an individual sewer system in a private house has gained wide popularity due to its low cost.
Pipe ventilation arrangement
The sewer exhaust system is designed to balance the negative pressure inside the pipeline. Due to the connection of sewer pipes with the atmosphere, the system is leveled.
As ventilation system used:
- air valve.
Fan hood is a continuation of the central riser. It is installed above the roof ridge at a distance of 30-50 cm. To protect against precipitation, a deflector is attached to the outlet, which further enhances traction.
Installing a fan hood for a private cottage is extremely impractical. Such a system will require insulation of the pipeline, as well as the allocation of a separate ventilation duct in the partitions.
Air valve – perfect option. It is easy to install into the pipeline. The device is installed directly indoors. The valve is equipped with a soft rubber membrane that only allows air to pass inward.
For two-story house One device is enough. The valve is installed on the second floor.
Diagram of connecting waste water discharge points to the central pipe. The difference in height between the dishwasher and toilet drainage connections determines the overall angle of inclination of the pipeline
Stage No. 3 - installation of a septic tank
If you decide to make a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands, then it is better to install a septic tank made of concrete rings or a ready-made plastic tank.
The volume of the container for collecting and settling organic waste is determined by calculation. Be sure to add an extra cube. The pipe insertion point is located at a distance of 2/3 from the top edge of the septic tank, so it is not filled to the top.
Construction of a septic tank
The first step is to dig three holes for installing containers. To save time and financial costs, it is advisable to combine two settling tanks into one.
The bottom of the dug hole should be reinforced with a concrete base. Concrete cannot be placed on the ground, so add a layer of crushed stone 20 cm thick.
For the construction of the base, formwork is installed from construction board. It must be secured with reinforcement along the outer and inner perimeter.
Use the same mixture composition as for pouring the foundation. In this case, be sure to lay a knitted mesh as a reinforcing element. It is better to take M500 grade cement, since the weight of the filled container will be large.
After the base has hardened, and this will not happen earlier than after 3 weeks, proceed to installing the drives.
Using a crane, they install it into the dug hole. When the first link is laid, the joint with the base must be coated cement mortar or tile adhesive. This way you will achieve tightness.
Do the same with subsequent rings. Before installing the second and third, first apply a layer of mortar to the joints. After installing all the links, re-process the joints inside the container. When the tank is installed, a brick partition is made inside.
Mounted for cleaning. The horizontal partition is performed concrete slab with holes for plastic covers.
The last step is everyone internal surfaces two containers.
It is worth keeping in mind that the outlet from the first container should be 10 cm lower than the first - the entrance from the house.
The angle of inclination is determined by the same parameters as for home wiring: with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, the height difference per 1 m is 20 mm.
Installation diagram of a drainage septic tank with two sealed tanks. The presence of a second container allows you to filter water from silt and other contaminants
To ensure that the slope of the pipe complies with the standards, the inlet of the second settling tank is lowered by 10 cm relative to the first.
On the top of the tanks, as well as on inner part Insulation is attached to the cleaning hatches. Cleanout or inspection hatches are installed directly above the overflow pipes so that they can be cleaned.
For device concrete base not required. Here the soil under the rings should allow water to pass through and retain sewage.
Therefore, a sand-crushed stone cushion is poured onto the bottom of the pit. The thicker the layer of crushed stone, the longer the well will perform its functions. Will have to be replaced after 5 years upper layer crushed stone for the new one, because the old one will silt.
Keep an eye on the level. When installing the first ring on crushed stone, one edge may become warped. If this happens, simply lift the link with a crane and level the level with crushed stone.
The joints of the rings must be treated with a solution to achieve a tight seal. The construction of waterproofing and an inspection hatch is similar to a sump.
Organization of septic tank ventilation
Installation ventilation pipes for septic tanks is justified only if aerobic bacteria are used. They intensively absorb air supplied through the hood.
Another type of biological bacteria are anaerobes. Their life processes take place without oxygen.
It is important not to confuse these two concepts, since some anaerobes die if there is air in the environment.
Added to settling tanks. Bacteria completely convert organic matter into water. In practice, this effect can only be achieved by installing complex filtration systems, but they still need to be used. Therefore, install a ventilation pipe in both sumps.
PVC sewer pipe for outdoor use is discharged from each container through a lid. A deflector is installed at the end.
Stage No. 4 - laying the central pipe
The sewer pipe, which removes sewage from the house, is diverted from the base to a distance of 5 m. The pipeline for external use is painted orange. This product differs from “home” pipes in having thicker walls. The permissible laying depth is 3 m.
A layer of sand of 8-10 cm is poured onto the bottom of the dug hole, as well as on top of the laid pipe. To ensure the best removal of organic waste from the house to the septic tank tanks, the pipe should run in one line. Turns of the central drain are strictly prohibited.
Alternatives to a drainage septic tank
A modern device that allows you to purify wastewater by 90% or more is a deep cleaning station.
Biological filtration devices are equipped with three degrees of purification$
- biological treatment with bacteria;
- mechanical filtration with meshes;
- final cleaning with chemical compounds.
It will not be possible to install such a sewer system on your own. The stations are produced in a single container, divided internally into several compartments. The device is volatile.
The compressor unit pumps air into the aerobic compartment for increased bacterial activity. Percentage of water purification, depending on the septic tank model
When the power is turned off, the bacteria will continue to live for up to two days. After this period, the installation loses its effectiveness. It will take several days to grow a new crop
Deep purification of organic matter allows you to use waste water for watering plants. For this purpose, a storage tank with a pump is installed.
It is advisable to use deep treatment stations when groundwater is located too close to the surface of the earth. Also if on the site clay soil, natural drainage will be difficult.
In addition to a biological septic tank, a sealed tank can serve as a way out of the situation. It will have to be pumped out often, but you won't have any other problems.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The intricacies of sewerage installation are outlined by the author of the video, who is busy laying sewer pipes:
The construction of a septic tank made of concrete rings will be discussed in the following video:
Installing a sewer system in a private house is an important stage of construction. Even at the design stage, the owner should think about the future design of septic tanks, their location, as well as the filtration system.
From proper arrangement The sewer system will depend on the comfort of everyone living in the house, therefore, if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to entrust its arrangement to specialists.
Without a working sewer system, a country cottage instantly turns from a comfortable home into a slum shack. But in order for the drainage in the sink and toilet to function correctly and without breakdowns, the sewerage installation in a private house must be done in strict compliance with the standards of the relevant SNiPs. It is important from the very beginning to correctly assemble the riser and select the slope of the pipes to it from the plumbing fixtures. The choice of material for the pipe products themselves and the fittings for them is also important.
Requirements
It is customary to work out the sewerage layout in a cottage at the design stage of a residential building. It is better to decide in advance on the location of all plumbing and pipes in the house. Direct installation of sewage pipelines with your own hands or with the involvement of plumbers is carried out after the construction of the walls, but before finishing.
Sewage wiring diagram in the house
In order for the indoor sewage system to work properly and without blockages, it is necessary:
- maintain proper slope drain pipes from plumbing to riser;
- minimize the number of turns and bends in sewer pipelines;
- choose the size and material of pipe products correctly;
- provide for the possibility of removing gases from the sewerage system (waste drain);
- install siphons to form water seals;
- V in the right places install hatches for inspection and cleaning;
- thermally insulate the sewer pipe on the street and in the basement (if necessary).
The two main documents regulating the installation of sewerage pipelines in a private house and the discharge of wastewater into the village sewer network or septic tank are SNiPs 2.04.01-85 (SP 30.13330.2012) and 2.04.03-85 (SP 32.13330.2012). They describe all the nuances of designing and installing a system for discharging domestic wastewater from a cottage.
The principle of sewer wiring
Regardless of the number of floors in a private house, the layout of the sewer system in it is built around the main vertical riser. Horizontal drains and outlets from plumbing fixtures are already connected to it. From below, the outlet to the street is connected to this central pipe to the septic tank or village drainage network. And on top of it there is a fan ventilation outlet to the roof.
If the house is one-story, and the only plumbing fixtures in it are a toilet and a sink with a bathtub, then you can refuse the riser. However vertical pipe ventilation will still have to be done, otherwise all the smells from the sewer will somehow end up in the cottage. Even siphons will not save you in this situation. Pressure drops when draining water will cause the water seals to fail, resulting in sewer stench from the pipes into the kitchen and bathroom.
Pipes for sewer distribution in the house
To independently install sewerage in a private house, you will need:
- pipes with a diameter of 50 (for bends) and 110 mm (for the riser);
- tees and elbows;
- plugs;
- inspection hatches;
- siphons for sinks, bathtubs and shower cabins;
- fastening elements (clamps).
It is recommended to take plastic pipes for sewerage in a cottage, made of PVC or polypropylene. The former are cheaper, and the latter are more resistant to impact household chemicals and high temperature. You can also take cast iron analogues for a country house. They are more durable, but more difficult to work with. If plastic is cut with a regular hacksaw, then for cast iron you will need a grinder or a gas autogen. Plus, for the pressure system you will need a sewage pump (installation with a small storage tank in the basement).
Scheme of natural sewerage of a private house
Wiring diagrams
The installation of sewer pipes in a private house is carried out according to one of two schemes:
- Natural (by gravity).
- Forced, pressure (with pump).
It is best and most correct to give preference to the first, with gravity flow of wastewater. The forced installation option should be used only as a last resort, when it is impossible to ensure natural drainage of wastewater from the building. Such a system is energy dependent; if there is a power outage, the sewage system will stop working. Internal storage pumping unit It can absorb a certain amount of impurities, but it is limited.
Forced sewerage scheme
Installation procedure
The sewage system in the house is assembled from the bottom up. First, an outlet is made in the basement (output through the foundation of the cottage) to connect the street and indoor parts of the drainage system. Then the riser rises upward, installing a tee or cross on each floor above the floor to connect horizontal outlets.
Features of installing sewer pipe connections in a private house
The opening in the foundation is made 400x400 mm or more in size. There should be a free space of about 150 mm from the pipe to the edge of this hole. It is necessary so that when the cottage settles and the soil swells in winter, the outlet does not become deformed or destroyed. The remaining gap is sealed with clay and tow.
Installation of risers
Installation of the riser consists of sequential installation of individual parts on top of each other. Their connection and fixation with each other is carried out due to the presence of a socket at the end of these elements. From the floor on the first floor, a tee is first installed on the branches. Then there is a pipe about a meter high. Then a revision is installed. And then another pipe is installed to pass the ceiling to the next floor. There is a tee again and everything repeats.
Installation of drainage system
There should be about 1–1.5 m from the floor level to the inspection hatch. If the pipeline is made of plastic products, then the riser must be attached to the wall using clamps on dowels. Moreover, there should be a gap of 15–20 cm from the wall surface to the pipe. And the clamps should be placed under the sockets and with a distance of 4–5 meters from each other in height.
The passage through the ceiling and the space above it, after installing the pipe, is filled with cement mortar with a thickness of 2–3 cm from the pipe and a height of 8–10 cm above the floor. This concrete edging is made to protect the riser, provide sound insulation and prevent the spread of fire in the event of a fire.
Installation of a drain pipe using adapters
Installation of bends
The bends are installed at a slope from the plumbing fixtures of 25–35 mm per linear meter. If the slope is made smaller, the wastewater will stagnate in the sewer pipeline. And with less, the drains will flow too quickly, as a result of which heavy particles and grease will begin to settle inside, gradually forming a blockage.
The length of the horizontal line should not exceed 10 m. If it is laid open method, then the pipeline can still be increased by a couple of meters. However, this is unacceptable for sewer pipes closed with a screed. And in any case, for every 8 m of the horizontal section, it is necessary to provide an inspection for cleaning. The sloped outlet is fixed with clamps to the wall in increments of 1–1.5 m. If you increase this distance, the plastic line will sag.
Features of the sewerage installation scheme in the house
Features of sewerage arrangement in one and two-story houses
In a one-story cottage, sewerage installation is usually carried out with one riser in the bathroom and two horizontal outlets in the bathroom and kitchen. But if the house is large and has two or three floors, then the sewer system layout will be more complex. Here it is often necessary to install a pair of separate risers. But in general, the principles of organizing the collection of household wastewater from plumbing fixtures are the same - the slope of the pipes and the supply of wastewater to one point for exit from the building.
Sewage scheme in a one-story house
To keep the sewer system working properly long years, when designing and installing it you should:
- connect branches to the riser not with straight crosses, but with elements with branch pipes at an angle of 30–40 degrees;
- to fix branch lines at a slope, use clamps with a pitch of no more than 1.5 meters;
- the places where vertical risers pass through the floors must be sealed with cement mortar;
- remove burrs from the ends plastic pipes after cutting them with a hacksaw into parts of the required length;
- use siphons to form water seals;
- withdraw fan output away from windows and balconies.
According to SNiPs in a private house, the installation of sewer pipes can be carried out open and hidden (in shafts or boxes made of non-combustible materials) ways. The first option allows you to constantly monitor the condition of pipelines and, if necessary, simplifies their repair, while the second is more aesthetically pleasing.
In order for the wastewater disposal system to function flawlessly, several nuances must be taken into account when arranging it. We will tell you today what a sewer system is for a private home, how to install it correctly and what mistakes should be avoided.
Pipe routing
Sewer installation is one of the most complex processes, therefore, its arrangement should be given the closest attention. Its assembly must fully comply with the requirements of SNiP.Installation of the sewerage system is carried out in stages:
first laid release(pipe connecting the external street and indoor systems);
Release device
Next is mounted riser– central pipe, located vertically; to facilitate maintenance, it is better if he is alone in the house; as a rule, it is located in utility rooms or a toilet; should not be installed in living rooms or kitchen; it is installed openly or placed in a special shaft;
Last to be connected bends, starting from the crosses, only upside down; in this case, the toilet is connected to the riser only separately with a 100-110 mm pipe, the remaining devices can be connected to a single common supply with thin 50 mm pipes.
Advice. To make it easier for the pipes to fit into the fasteners, you can use liquid soap.
Release installation
1. It is better to install a special hole for it during the construction of the house. If it is not there, then a hole is made in the foundation 200-250 mm wider than the diameter of the pipe itself.2. Hole waterproofed using bitumen mastic.
3. Next, a special sleeve is inserted into it (a section with a diameter 20-40 mm larger than the outlet pipe). It serves to prevent destruction of the main pipeline. The sleeve should protrude 150 mm from the foundation on both sides.
4. The outlet pipe is placed in the sleeve. The space between them is carefully filled with foam.
5. The sleeve is connected to the internal sewer pipe oblique tee(45° tee) and withdrawal.
Sewer crosses, tees and bends
Slope angle
Since wastewater flows through the pipes by gravity, in order to avoid blockages, the angle of their slope should be correctly determined. It is calculated based on the diameter of the pipeline. Moreover, for each plumbing fixture it is selected separately:40-55 mm – from 3%;
85-100 mm – from 2%.
Naturally, the further the device is from the riser, the more the slope should be increased. Let's say drain hole is located at a distance of 200 m from the riser itself. To obtain the required angle of inclination, the pipe should be shifted in height by 60 mm.
Pipe angle
Advice. When choosing sewer pipes, please note that street pipes are always painted in Orange color, and pipes intended for indoor installation are gray.
Riser installation
1. He's only going to down up. For such a pipe, appropriate openings are prepared in the floors and roof. To reduce the noise of water passage, a distance of 20 mm should be taken from the wall or groove.2. The riser is mounted only strictly vertical. Minor deviations of up to 2 mm per every 2 m are allowed.
3. To ensure that the joints do not impede the passage of liquid, the sockets are mounted above.
4. When assembled, they are gradually connected side bends and inspection hatches. For this purpose, oblique tees and crosses are used.
5. When connecting bends, pipes running parallel to the floor are laid on special supports.
Sewage system diagram
6. Excessive turns of pipes should be avoided, if you cannot do without them, it is better to use two tees at 45°, or even better, three at 30°; if you choose one at 90°, then there will be waste in it stagnate; in addition, when connecting at a right angle, the pressure in the riser will be extreme, which will lead to excessive noise in room.
Advice. Since blockages most often occur at turning points, be sure to provide inspection or inspection hatches next to them.
7. The riser is fixed to the wall with clamps, which should be located under the sockets. The distance between the clamps is up to 4 m. In order not to damage the system, the holes for them should be prepared in advance or, when preparing them, the riser should be temporarily disassembled.
Riser assembly diagram
Hood arrangement
To prevent odors from entering the room, a curved pipe is provided at the bottom of all plumbing fixtures (sinks, toilets, etc.) water seal. However, with intensive use of the sewer system, a vacuum sometimes forms in the riser. In this case, a “water seal failure” occurs - gases begin to penetrate into the house without the resistance of water.To avoid this, it is necessary to provide for their release into the atmosphere. The drain pipe for ventilation of the sewer system is discharged through the roof. Its diameter is always equal to the diameter of the main pipe. If fan pipe passes through unheated attic space, it needs to be insulated.
With a small sewer capacity Sewage equipment without exhaust is allowed. However, in this case, the riser must necessarily end with a cleaning or inspection hatch.
Inspection hatch and cleaning hole (equipped with a plug)
Basic wiring rules
To ensure that sewerage problems never arise during operation, the following rules should be followed when arranging it:To prevent sewage from spilling out, all plumbing is connected above the toilet;
To avoid blockages, strong bends and excessive sharp pipe turns;
Installation of sewer system
supply pipe diameter selected equal to or slightly larger than the size of the largest pipe from the plumbing fixture;
If there is a toilet in the house common riser diameter must be greater than or at least equal to 100 mm - the diameter of the toilet pipe;
The line to it should not exceed a meter; from other plumbing fixtures is allowed liner length up to 3 m; if for some reason it is made larger, then its diameter is increased to the size of the total riser (at least 100 mm); in order not to increase its diameter, you can equip a vacuum valve at its upper end;
To service the system, it is necessary to provide inspection hatches and cleaning hatches; they should be located every 10 m;
To prevent pipes from freezing in winter, they should be carefully installed where they pass underground. insulate.
Outdoor toilet with cesspool is gradually becoming a thing of the past. New house and even small dacha should delight owners with comfort and amenities normal for the 21st century. The device is a completely affordable and safe event for construction, if you approach the design wisely and use it modern materials and technology. When building a house, the drainage system is laid out at the design stage, along with other engineering communications, but even in an old house it is quite possible to organize the construction of a bathroom with an urban level of comfort.
All private houses can be divided into two categories - those that can be connected to a centralized city or village sewerage system, and those that cannot. The progress of work and the installation of communications inside the premises will be the same for these cases; the only significant difference will be in the organization of wastewater disposal.
General principles for installing sewerage in a private house
Fundamentally, the sewer system in a private house, as in a city apartment, consists of a vertical riser and pipes of smaller diameter, through which wastewater from a sink, toilet, etc. flows into it by gravity. Then the wastewater flows into horizontally located large-diameter pipes, and from them into a centralized sewerage system or local autonomous treatment facilities.
When planning a sewer system in a house under construction, it is worth placing the kitchen and bathrooms nearby, better nearby with the place where the sewer goes out onto the street. If the house is two-story, then the bathrooms should be located one below the other to reduce the number of risers and simplify the installation of the system and its subsequent maintenance.
IN big house with a large number of bathrooms, with a complex sewer system, rational installation sewage pump. A pump may also be needed if the area has absolutely no slope.
When designing a sewer system, the following are also taken into account:
- landscape of the site - wastewater flows downwards and the septic tank or cesspool should be located at its lowest point,
- type of soil, its freezing and altitude groundwater– the depth of the pipes depends on this external sewerage and selection of treatment facilities
Selection of materials
At the present stage, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride are the most the best option. They are inexpensive, easy to transport and install, and do not require a welding machine for assembly. In addition to pipes you will need connecting elements: elbows of various configurations, fittings, tees, inspection hatches. The joints are additionally treated with sealant.
The diameter of the pipes depends on the volume of wastewater and the number of devices connected to the system. In any case, the diameter of the pipe from the plumbing fixture must be equal to or greater than its drain pipe. The diameter of the pipe for the riser should be from 100 mm if a toilet is connected to it, and from 50 mm if there is no toilet. The length of the pipes from the device to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and from the toilet - 1 m. If this distance needs to be increased, then pipes are taken of a larger diameter.
Installation of pipes and plumbing connections
Before assembling the system, it is better to draw it in detail or design it in computer program. All horizontal pipes of the internal sewerage must slope from the device to the riser at the rate of 2-15 cm per 1 m. If you need to turn the pipe 90 degrees, it is better to do this smoothly, using 2 elbows at 45 or 3 elbows at 30 degrees, for prevent blockages.
The toilet is connected to the vertical riser separately to avoid emptying the siphons in the plumbing when draining the water. Moreover, the remaining devices must be connected above the toilet to prevent waste from entering them.
The sewer risers on each floor in the lower part are equipped with inspection hatches. For sound insulation, they can be wrapped in a layer of mineral wool or covered with a plasterboard box.
Sanitary fixtures are connected to the pipes through a U-shaped siphon, the lower part of which always contains some water. Foul gases from the sewer system cannot pass through this barrier. Some sinks and bathtubs are sold already with a siphon, for others you will need to purchase it additionally; toilets have a built-in siphon.
The riser with external pipes is connected using horizontal pipes of the same or larger diameter, located in the basement, basement or under the floor. Such pipes are also equipped with inspection hatches (mandatory at turns). When connecting them, you should avoid right angles and complex turns. If the pipe runs in the ground or in an unheated room, then it must be well insulated. At the exit point from the house, all sewer pipes are collected together and connected to the external sewer system through a hole in the foundation.
Sewer pipes are attached to the walls using clamps. Additional fastenings are installed near the points of insertion into the riser, connections and transitions.
Sewage ventilation
A large amount of abruptly drained water, for example from a toilet cistern, moving through a pipe, creates an area of discharged space behind it. If there is no air entering the system, water leaves the siphons of plumbing fixtures along this pipe, and appears bad smell. For this reason sewer system must be equipped with its own ventilation.
For the pipe, the risers are extended to the roof; the upper end is not closed, but is reliably hidden from precipitation and debris. You can do it differently; an aeration valve is installed at the top of the riser, which does not release odors, but conducts air inside, which prevents the air from being discharged in the pipe.
External sewerage
Outside the home it is also optimal to use polymer pipes. To lay them, a trench is dug to the depth of soil freezing, a sand cushion is poured onto its bottom, and then pipes are laid at a slope of 2-3%. If it is impossible to ensure a sufficiently deep burial, then it is necessary to carefully insulate the pipes.
Inspection hatches are installed at the connection point to the house and near the junction with the central sewerage system or autonomous wastewater treatment plants. It is advisable to install a check valve in the pipe. It will protect the house sewer system from the ingress of sewage from the outside, for example, when the cesspool overflows, and from the penetration of rodents through the pipes.
Treatment plants
An autonomous sewer at the end may have:
- cesspool,
- station biological treatment.
Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages, but, in general, a cesspool can only be recommended for dachas where people do not live permanently, or for small houses for 1-2 people. A biological treatment station is expensive, but after its installation, maintenance and emptying will have to be resorted to extremely rarely. The septic tank is the best option, you can buy it ready-made or make it yourself.
A properly designed and installed sewer system will make living in own home even more comfortable.
