How to make a 3-level plasterboard ceiling. We make a simple two-level ceiling from plasterboard. Calculating the amount of consumables needed

Drywall today is the most popular construction and finishing material, used in creating two-level ceilings. Looking at the photographs of multi-level ceiling structures, we think that it is impossible to cope with such work on our own. In fact, although this is not easy, it is quite doable. You will need attentiveness, accuracy, minor construction skills and knowledge of theory.

Required materials and tools

So, you have decided to install plasterboard in your apartment or house. two-level ceiling. To ensure that the work goes quickly and smoothly, prepare everything you need in advance. You will need the following tools:

screwdriver and hammer drill;
water level and rule with a level, it is better if it is at least 2 meters long;
upholstery cord;
square, tape measure, pencil;
stepladder, construction sawhorses;
knife for cutting gypsum board;
hammer;
hacksaw for drywall.

Typically, two-level plasterboard ceilings are made in order to create complex lighting. This means you should stock up on a standard set of electrical tools. installation work.

Materials and tools you will need for your work

Now let's move on to consumables. You will need:

plasterboard sheets;
supporting profile;
guide profile;
knitting needles or U-shaped hangers, depending on the distance at which the frame will be mounted to the main ceiling;
metal screws for drywall of different lengths;
quick installation, diameter 6 mm.

The amount of material directly depends on the area of the ceiling. Don’t forget that it’s better to have some surplus left over than not have enough material at the most needed moment. Therefore, purchase with a reserve. This is especially important if this is your first time dealing with this type of work: mistakes will probably be made during the process.

Before you start work, you need to decide on the layout of the future ceiling.

Ceiling schemes: choosing the right one

There is a huge range of designs for multi-level plasterboard ceilings. Many of them are very complex and require professional work by specialists. We will focus on simple popular schemes that beginners can implement.

Scheme one

The first method involves installing only a box with a canopy (or without it) around the perimeter of the room or in its individual sections. This so-called “island” installation is very easy to implement and is suitable for a flat ceiling, which can simply be puttied before work. The second tier is usually used to hide communications around the perimeter of the ceiling or to provide zoning for the room.

If a canopy is provided on the second tier, into which light cords or lamps will be mounted, then this will not only serve as a divider into zones, but will also help at a certain moment to give the interior the desired atmosphere.

Let's say you are making such a ceiling in the bedroom. If necessary, you can turn off the main lights and leave only the cord on in the side. The cord itself is not visible because of the visor, so the lighting will be dim, creating an atmosphere of comfort and romance.

Scheme of a box with a canopy for hidden lighting

You can make the second level box of any shape - rectangular, round, oval, wavy. It all depends on your imagination and desire. But remember classical rules formation of the interior. For example, the smooth lines of the second tier are perfect for a dynamic design. If the decor in your room is laconic and simple, then it is better to use straight lines in the design of the ceiling.

Scheme two

This method is useful if your ceiling is uneven or there are too many communications on it. Therefore, the creation of the first level from plasterboard will be required.

Typically, the base surface of the ceiling is installed first, and the second level is attached to the frame of the first.

Attaching the box to the frame of the first tier

The second option involves first installing the box, and then attaching a guide profile to it for the main plane of the ceiling.

Fastening the first tier to the side of the box

Whatever method you use, after installation the two-level ceiling will look something like this:

Ceiling box with straight lines

According to these simple circuits you can choose the most suitable option for a two-level ceiling, which is easy to do with your own hands.

Installation process

The first stage of work is marking. She will demand from you special attention, since any mistake can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Take a tape measure and a pencil. Determine a point on the wall that will become the starting point for the horizontal lines of the bottom edge of the box.
Using a water level, transfer points relative to the original mark to each corner of the room. Use upholstery cord to create horizontal lines between them.

Drawing lines for guides along the wall

Draw lines along the ceiling. They will mark the longitudinal internal boundaries of the second tier.

Now draw a grid on the remaining space inside the perimeter of the proposed boxes. At the intersections of its lines, hangers for the first tier will be attached. This is easy to do: place marks along the longitudinal boundaries of opposite lines at a distance of 50 cm from each other. On the remaining perpendicular lines, place marks at a distance of 60 cm. At the intersections of the lines you will get right angles.

Example of ceiling markings

The marking is complete, now proceed with installation.

Box assembly

First you need to assemble the boxes. Attach guide profiles along the lines on the wall. Do the same along the internal boundaries of the second tier, along the ceiling.

From the ceiling profile, measure the distances to the line on the walls, subtract about 1.5 cm, and according to the resulting figure, cut off the CD profile pieces with a small allowance on one edge.

Insert the cut pieces into the profile on the ceiling and screw them at a distance of about half a meter from each other.

Screw the guide profile level to the allowances on the lower edges of the pieces of suspended profiles. Its sharp edges will face the wall. Now the guides can be connected with pieces of the supporting profile of the required length by inserting them and screwing them.

Side edge of the box

Sheathe the frame from the bottom and sides with plasterboard. Your box is ready!

Please note: before installing a two-level ceiling, plan where the electric wires, place chandeliers and lamps. Installation should be carried out taking into account all these features.

If the two-level ceiling was planned in such a way that the width of the boxes is more than half a meter, the middle of each piece of the supporting profile must be fixed on a suspension. This will strengthen the frame and allow the sheet of drywall to be secured more securely.

Installing the first tier

Attach the hangers at the intersection of the lines on the ceiling. On the side edge of the box, make horizontal lines along the drywall, thus marking the lower border of the first tier. Attach guides to these lines and screw them with self-tapping screws.

Insert the supporting profile into the guides on two opposite edges, maintaining a distance of 60 cm from each other. On the remaining edges, place the profiles at a distance of half a meter; as a result, you will get a frame with cells of 50 X 60 cm.

Using a stretched cord or a rule with a level, give the supporting profile the required position and fasten it with hangers.

Cut jumpers from the same profile, insert them between all load-bearing parallel profiles and screw them, maintaining a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Finished two-level frame

At this point, your two-level ceiling is almost ready. All that remains is to double-check whether everything is fastened correctly and securely, correct anything if necessary, and sew sheets onto the frame.

Video about installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling

As you can see, updating a room and giving it an original, unusual look using a two-level plasterboard ceiling is not very difficult even for a beginner. We hope our tips will help you do this job easily and quickly. Ask your questions in the comments, or share your experience with us. Good luck and comfort to your home!

The appearance of drywall on the market solved many problems with leveling defects on the ceiling, as well as arranging various multi-level relief compositions on them. The advantages of this material are invaluable for work, in in capable hands he accepts the required form, so it is used to make stylized flowers and concave domes, waves and fantastic patterns on the ceilings. Literally everything that the imagination suggests can be reproduced using drywall.

Where to start working on installing a two-level ceiling

You need to start the device with a sketch of your future ceiling and determining what exactly you want to get in the end.

A GENERAL PROJECT IS REQUIRED, i.e. what it will look like if you look at it from below, and sketch drawings of each level.

This will make it easier to calculate the amount of materials needed and the design of the frame, given that the lower level will be attached to the upper one. This calculation will help you save money when purchasing material for installing a two-level ceiling.

Preparing tools and materials

Plasterboard sheets are rolled with a special roller with metal spikes, which leave micro holes on their surface

In addition to drywall and metal profiles, will need another row auxiliary materials , which you cannot do without when installing the frame. This:

Connecting metal profiles.
Suspension clamps with rods or spacer brackets.
Self-tapping screws.
Dowels-nails or anchor elements for fastening to floor slabs and walls.
Connectors – single-level and two-level.
Serpyanka tape, putty, sanding paper or mesh.

When installing the structure, you need to prepare the following tools:

A tape measure, a square and a long ruler, preferably a metal one, a building level.
Painting cord for marking lines.
Screwdriver.
Paper cutting knife – this is convenient for cutting drywall.
Metal scissors – necessary for cutting metal profiles.
A hammer drill for drilling holes in a concrete ceiling.
Pliers, hammer.
Grater, spatula.

Having calculated how much and what you need, buy everything with a small margin so that during work at the wrong moment you do not discover a shortage of one or another part.

We mount the frame

Installation multi-level ceiling from plasterboard can be done in two ways. Each of them has its own advantages.

Fastening metal profiles in both cases is the same, but the difference is in the following points:

In the first option, the first level of the ceiling is first completely arranged: frame and sheathing with plasterboard and only after that the second level frame is made. Its advantage is that heat and sound insulation material can be installed under the first level.
Another option is to assemble the entire frame, that is, the first and second levels, and only then comes the plasterboard covering. The advantage of this option is saving money on the purchase of drywall.

First level

Step-by-step installation of the first ceiling level must begin with careful markings.

On the walls you need to mark the height at which the first level will be located and mark straight lines along the entire perimeter of the room. Metal profiles will be attached to them.
These metal profiles mark the distance at which the intermediate frame profiles will be attached. The pitch between the guides is 40-50 cm. They are suspended from the ceiling using spacer hangers or butterfly clamps with rods. Then, with the same step, the crossbars are attached using crab connectors. It should look something like this.
If lighting is expected at this level, wiring for it must be done before covering.
The next step in the installation instructions is covering the frame with plasterboard. It is screwed with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver, in increments of 15-25 cm. To make everything look neat, It is better to first drill holes with a thin metal drill bit. When the entire sheathing is sheathed, the first level can be considered ready.

The task becomes more difficult - level two

Let's look at the installation instructions for the second level.

The second level drawing is transferred from the sketch to the ceiling using a pencil. To get exactly the bend that was intended, you can cut out a kind of pattern from cardboard, then attach it to the first level of drywall using tacks and trace it with a pencil.
Next, a frame is prepared from metal profiles. If a curved or round shape is required, the profile is cut with tin snips. After this, it is easy to bend it and attach it along the marked line.
Another metal profile is also attached to the wall and connected to the shaped elements with intermediate parts that ensure the rigidity of the structure - this will be the frame of the second level. The lighting wiring is attached to this frame, leading it to the required places.
When the entire frame is ready, it is also in the right places covered with plasterboard. In large planes, you can immediately mark or cut holes for lamps.
Drywall seams and screw heads must be puttied. After drying, the surface is leveled with a grater and thoroughly sanded. Leveled surfaces can be covered with wallpaper or painted in the colors you have in mind.

It takes a little work to bend the drywall neatly.

They go over one side of it with a needle roller. Then the other side of the material is moistened with a spray bottle, left for five to seven minutes, carefully bent, and wet attached to the frame - there the material should dry completely.

Are you weak: photos of two-level plasterboard ceilings

In order to be able to decide on own project that you want to implement in your room, it is useful to familiarize yourself with several ready-made options for two-level ceilings, and, at the same time, take a closer look at the distribution lighting fixtures on their plane.

Two-level ceiling for a children's room Pink colour– just an ideal option. It is suitable for both a little girl and a teenager. The glamorous combination of pink and white creates a cozy and warm atmosphere. The second level of the ceiling consists of a scroll with external lighting.

Despite the number of round edges, installation of such figured ceiling made of plasterboard is not very difficult to make.

Design green ceiling good for bedroom. Green has always been considered a calming color, as it is close to the natural colors of living nature. The round shape that makes up the second level is also pleasing to the eye. Soft lighting from the inside and spotlights combine well with the shapes and provide the desired soft lighting.

This is a ceiling of fantastic beauty, the smooth shapes of a flower - the second level of which is emphasized by skillfully arranged lighting around the entire perimeter of the room. This creates a special effect of softness and tenderness.

The technology for installing this structure is quite complex, since each petal has bends in two planes, and you need to try very hard to make them approximately the same.

Option two will suit any design of a living room, bedroom or nursery. His White color, also illuminated with an LED cord, which is located along the entire perimeter of the second level, gives off a glare over the entire plane - thereby making the room brighter. The accessibility of this installation technology is obvious - anyone, even a novice master, can do it.

So, if you decide to try your hand at this work, you need to carefully calculate everything and clearly define the forms. Next, you need a step-by-step understanding of the installation, how you will do it from start to finish - then in practice everything will go well.

You only need to be careful and accurate in your calculations. And a burning desire to transform one of the rooms in your home will definitely help you overcome all the difficulties.

Some may think that a two-level ceiling is an excess, but in fact, such a design can make the room more functional and comfortable

In rooms with such structures, sounds fade faster than in other rooms

Surely you are interested in what the cost of installing ceiling structures is? The average price today is this.

Cost of installation of plasterboard structures

№	Type of work	Unit change	Cost of work, rub.
	Ceiling installation work
1	Installation of straight lines plasterboard ceilings using P113 technology	sq.m	from 600 to 800
2	Ceiling cladding in one layer of gypsum board frame 600 mm	sq.m	320-450
3	Ceiling cladding one layer of gypsum plasterboard Frame 400 mm	sq.m	480-500
4	Ceiling cladding two layers of gypsum plasterboard Frame 600 mm	sq.m	480
5	Ceiling cladding two layers of gypsum plasterboard Frame 400 mm	sq.m	470-560
	Subsequent ceiling levels
6	Installation of two-level gypsum board ceilings	sq.m	600-720
7	In the form of a box	linear meters	350-400
8	Curvilinear ceiling design element	linear meters/sq.m	400-600
9	Element with hidden built-in lighting	linear meters	480-500
10	Installation of complex plasterboard ceilings	sq.m	from 760 to 1750
11	Installation of two-level gypsum board ceilings with bends	sq.m	900
12	Installation of a niche visor for placing an LED strip	linear meters	560-700
	Complex ceiling structures
13	Standard straight box	linear meters	350-420
14	Standard curved box	linear meters	500-680
15	Straight-line box with built-in hidden lighting	linear meters	600-700
16	Curved box with built-in hidden lighting	linear meters	600-1000
17	Installation of simple boxes round shape from plasterboard in 2 layers	linear meters	1100-1200
18	Installation of double-end round boxes made of plasterboard in 2 layers	linear meters	1200-1400
19	Installation of a round cornice made of plasterboard in 2 layers	linear meters	300-380

A visual installation process can be seen by watching a video tutorial on installing plasterboard ceilings. Good luck with your renovation!

Today, suspended and suspended ceilings are at the peak of their popularity. Simplicity of design, modern technologies in construction and the imagination of designers provided practically unlimited possibilities for their use. Most often you can find a conventional single-level structure in which lighting fixtures are mounted. But to create a truly unusual ceiling, you need to pay attention to two-level ceilings. Of course, creating them will require good skills as a builder and designer, but a do-it-yourself two-level ceiling is a doable task for anyone who knows how to use a tool.

Preparatory work

First of all, it is necessary to ensure free access and movement in the room. To do this, you will either have to remove all the furniture from the room or arrange it so that it does not interfere. Secondly, you should pay attention to the surface of the ceiling. After all, the amount of effort applied during installation of the structure and the reliability of its fastening will depend on how smooth and solid it is. Thirdly, it is necessary to calculate the required materials, and for this you will have to create a design diagram for a two-level ceiling. Fourth important point The preparation includes electrical wiring, the wiring diagram and wiring of which must be thought out in advance.

Before making a two-level ceiling, we conduct a thorough inspection of the ceiling surface for integrity. To do this, we completely remove old finishing up to the ceiling or old plaster. If there are no cracks or peeling areas on the plastered surface, you can begin finishing with putty. If deep cracks are visible on the ceiling, and a dull sound is heard when tapping, you will have to completely clean the damaged area right up to the ceiling. Then apply primer deep penetration and seal it again plaster mixture. If more than 30% of the total surface area of the ceiling is damaged, it is better to re-plaster the ceiling. It also makes sense to do full-fledged ceiling plaster in case of large differences and unevenness. But if the level of differences does not exceed 10 mm, for leveling it will be enough to simply putty the ceiling in several layers using a painting mesh. After the freshly plastered and puttied ceiling is completely dry, you can begin further work.

Calculation and diagram of a two-level ceiling

This stage preparatory work the most complex and requires engineering and design skills from the master. Firstly, you need to draw at least approximately what the two-level ceiling will be like, where there will be hidden niches and protruding structural elements, as well as the location of lighting fixtures. If it is difficult to draw such a project yourself, then you can use one of ready-made options two-level ceilings:

When the design project is ready, you can begin to create a diagram of the structure itself and calculate the necessary materials. You can do this as follows:

We measure the width and length of the room and calculate the perimeter. For example, let's take a room with a length of 5 m and a width of 3 m. P = (5 + 3) * 2 = 16 linear meters. The result obtained is the length of the guide profile (UD). For a two-level ceiling, the length of the guide profile will have to be doubled, since you will have to make a second guide contour for the second level.

Important! If, after measuring the room, you find that the walls located opposite each other have different lengths, you need to use a larger value for calculations.

Now we calculate the required quantity frame profile(CD). The frame profile itself will be attached in increments of 600 mm, and the length of its slats will be equal to the width of the room. 5000/600 = 8.3 rounded to the nearest whole and we get 8 frame profile strips, 3 m each.

Important! The pitch of the frame profile of 600 mm was chosen based on the standard dimensions of the gypsum board. The sheets are available in widths of 600 and 1200 mm, and when installing them, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of the sheets lie clearly on the profile. The length of the gypsum board is also standardized, but for suspended ceilings A sheet 2500 mm long is perfect.

Knowing the number of frame profile slats, you can begin to calculate the direct hangers on which the slats will be attached. The mounting step for the hangers is 600 mm, but the first hangers from the walls along the guide are attached at a distance of 300 mm. Based on this, we get (3000/600)*8=40 pieces of hangers for attaching the frame profile.

To make the structure of a two-level ceiling more durable, it is necessary to additionally install jumpers between the main frame profiles and connectors for them (crabs). First of all, we calculate the number of crabs. The spacing of their fastening is 600 - 650 mm. (3000/600)*8=40 pcs. crabs Based on this, we get 5 rows of jumpers, each length will be 5000 mm.

Important! The distance from the walls for lintels and crabs should be selected based on the size of the second level. For example, if the width of the second level is 500 mm and hidden lighting is planned, then the first and last jumpers will be mounted at a distance of 400 mm from the wall.

Having completed all the calculations for the first level, we proceed to the second. At this stage everything is somewhat simpler. So for the second level jumpers you will need 18 pieces of CD profile 400 mm each and another 4 1000 mm each for corner connections. Also, to attach these jumpers, you will need 22 hangers.

Important! Direct hangers can be used if the height of the two-level ceiling is no more than 120 mm.

To give the structure strength and to have a place to attach vertical plasterboard sheets that hide the frame of the structure, you will need racks from the CD profile. The number of racks is equal to the number of jumpers for the second level - 22 pcs. We choose the size based on the design features of the ceiling. The fact is that the second level can be mounted as to the main one load-bearing structure, and directly to the ceiling.

It remains to calculate the number of sheets of drywall. Everything here is extremely simple. All sheets have standard sizes, and for installation in residential premises it is most convenient to use a sheet of 2500x1200 or 2500x600. Therefore, we measure the area of the first level of the ceiling along the edges of the profile and divide it by the area of one sheet, the result obtained is the required number of sheets. For the second level, we carry out the calculation in a similar way, only we should take into account the protruding edge and the vertical strips hiding the structure. When choosing plasterboard sheets, opt for sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm. They are optimally suited in terms of weight and strength for suspended ceilings.

Important! For some options for a two-level ceiling, a structure is created only around the perimeter of the room, and the middle is left free. Such two-level ceilings allow you to save on materials and also make it possible to install suspended ceiling or decorate the ceiling surface in some other way.

Wiring diagram

First, you will need to outline the location of all lighting fixtures, and then calculate the power consumption of all fixtures and the length of the wires. Based on the data obtained, a wire of the required cross-section is purchased. In addition to the wires, you will also need a corrugation, mounting box or cable duct. The good thing about corrugation is that it can be thrown directly across the entire ceiling structure, while the cable duct and ducts will have to be attached to the wall around the perimeter.

All of the above materials will need to be securely and firmly fastened to each other, to the ceiling and walls. To do this, you will have to purchase a large number of different screws, anchors and dowels. Of the variety of fasteners, it is recommended to use the following screws and dowels:

for fastening to the wall and ceiling with dowels and screws 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm, fastening pitch 300 mm;
to connect the hangers and the profile, the crabs and the profile, use a self-tapping screw LN 9, LN 11 or LB 9, LB 11;
The plasterboard sheets are fastened with MN 25 and MN 30 self-tapping screws in increments of 250 mm.

Important! To fasten the crab, 4 screws are used, and 2 screws are used to connect the suspension and profile. It is better to carry out all installation work with two partners.

DIY two-level suspended ceiling

You can write a whole scientific report on how to make two-level ceilings, listing all kinds of structures and options for their fastening. This article discusses one of the common options for a two-level suspended ceiling for making it yourself. If the need arises to create a more complex design, you will have to turn to specialists or more professional literature. So, in order to bring to life the previously drawn project of a two-level ceiling, you need to do the following:

After we have leveled the surface of the ceiling, take a ruler or tape measure and measure the height of the two-level ceiling without the thickness of the plasterboard sheet. We put 3 - 4 marks on one wall and connect them using painting thread, after which, by pulling and releasing the thread, we get a clear line - a basic level of future ceiling.

We apply markings to the ceiling for the CD frame profile. We use the same markings for the hangers to which the profile will be attached. We measure the required distance from the walls, put 3 - 4 marks and connect them using painting thread. Then, in increments of 600 mm, we set marks for the other profile strips.

Now we take the UD guide profile and drill holes in it for fastening in increments of 300 mm. We attach the profile to the wall so that its lower edge is strictly along the intended line, and using a bumper we mark the places for the dowels. After this, we take a hammer drill and drill holes and drive the dowels inside. We reapply the profile and screw it to the wall.

Important! The amount of work involved in tightening various screws and self-tapping screws is quite large, so we strongly recommend using a screwdriver.

We attach the suspension to the ceiling and use a hammer drill to drill out a place for the fasteners. You can make one or two holes. Here everything depends on the desire to make the structure more reliable. Having drilled holes for each hanger, drive the dowels inside and screw the hangers.

Important! When drilling holes for hangers, you need to make sure that the intended line is strictly perpendicular to the hanger and runs clearly in the center.

It’s time to fix the CD frame profile for the first ceiling level. We bend the ends of the hangers like the letter “P” so that the width of the profile passes freely inside. There are holes on the hangers that allow you to adjust the height of the ceiling, so you should determine in advance which holes the screws will be screwed into in order to obtain the required height of the first level. To securely connect the suspension to the profile, 2 screws are enough, one on each side.

As soon as the frame profile strips are secured, we take a tape measure and mark on the ceiling where the crabs will be installed to connect the transverse profile strips. After that, we install the crabs themselves. They are placed over the profile with the tendrils downwards and, under force, firmly snap into place inside the profile, and then fixed to the profile with screws.

All that remains is to install the jumpers for the frame. But first you will have to pick up a grinder or metal scissors and cut the required number of jumpers from a CD profile of a certain size. Having done this, we put the jumper in place. To do this, we place it from below under the crab and, pressing it against it, snap it into place, after which we fix the crab and the jumper with 2 screws.

Now we begin to install the frame for the second level. In fact, all the work is similar to that for the first level frame. The difference is this:

First, the CD profile is inserted into the UD guides and secured to the suspension. After which it is also fixed to the guide profile with 2 screws;

to impart rigidity to the structure, all second-level CD profile strips are connected to each other along the perimeter using a UD profile and fixed with 1 screw;

To secure vertically standing pieces of drywall, we connect the profile of the second and first levels vertically with a jumper from the CD profile. They are installed above each of the horizontal strips of the CD profile of the second level;

Having completed the installation of the frame, you can begin installing the electrical wiring. To do this, we either lay a corrugated wire directly from the installation location of the lighting fixture to the point of connection to the network, or we attach a cable channel to the wall and lay the wire along it. When installing the wire, the main thing is to make a margin of 10 - 15 cm to extend it beyond the ceiling structure and conveniently connect the lighting;

Now we fix the sheets of drywall. We begin their installation from the first level. To give reliability to the ceiling, we fasten them apart and fix them to the profile, which is screwed to the ceiling with hangers. For fastening we use special self-tapping screws, which we screw in at 250 mm increments;

Having finished with the first level, we proceed to the second. Here you will have to carefully trim the sheets so that they exactly match the length of the profiles. The cutting process itself is quite simple - we cut cardboard on one side of the sheet for the ruler, then carefully break it and cut through the other side. If necessary, we trim it with a special plane, and then screw it to the profile;

to hide the internal structures, we fix vertical pieces of drywall between the second and first levels, screwing them to the vertical profile posts. If the second level has a broken or curved contour, then a strip is cut out of a sheet of drywall, then soaked in water, the drywall will become soft and pliable. Bending it to fit the shape of the gap, we apply it and secure it.

To complete the installation of the two-level ceiling, we drill holes for lighting in the designated areas. We glue a small plasterboard border to the edge of the protruding part of the sheet, behind which the lighting will be hidden, after which we prime and putty all the joints between the sheets. Once the ceiling surface is dry, you can apply the final finish and connect the lighting fixtures.

Video: how to make a two-level ceiling

Do-it-yourself two-level stretch ceiling

Creating such a ceiling will be somewhat simpler compared to the above-described version of a two-level ceiling. First of all, this will concern the type of supporting structure and the amount of materials for its creation. Otherwise, installation is almost identical to a conventional suspended ceiling. But before you make a two-level stretch ceiling, you will have to make a new design project and recalculate the materials. The key difference between a two-level stretch ceiling is that the suspended structure is made of plasterboard sheets located around the perimeter of the room. And the center of the room is allocated for tensioning the canvas. To install a two-level stretch ceiling, you must do the following:

mark and install the plasterboard structure in one level around the perimeter of the room. All work is similar to those previously described for the installation of a two-level suspended ceiling;
We attach a special profile to the structure at a certain height to tension the web;
Using a heat gun, we heat the room and the canvas. Then we proceed to tension it;

First of all, we fix two diagonally opposite corners, then we fix the third corner and the fourth. We stretch the ceiling canvas along the perimeter, first on one side, then on the opposite;
Finally, we connect the lighting fixtures.

DIY two-level stretch ceiling: video

Creating multi-level ceiling structures is quite labor-intensive work that requires increased attention and understanding of the process. The difficulty of execution lies in the coordination of the actions of two or three partners. But for a well-coordinated team, creating a two-level ceiling will not be difficult.

A two-level suspended ceiling made of plasterboard will look original in the hall, living room, and bedroom. It will fit perfectly into classic and modern design. And by installing it yourself, you can turn your idea of decorating a room into reality. Our tips will help you.

Methods for installing two-tier plasterboard ceilings

Ceiling shapes can be very different. This is a convex box of a bizarre shape or, on the contrary, an original niche with lighting in a frame.

The frame of a two-level plasterboard ceiling is equipped with several methods:

Second level installation. The best option for an even coating. In this case, the lighting elements are fixed in the frame.
Sequential installation. First, the first tier is mounted, to which the second is attached. The method is suitable for those projects in which the second level occupies small area, since its weight is completely supported by the first tier.
Reverse fixation. In this case, it is necessary to initially make a second-level frame and install the first between its profiles. This method is considered the most difficult.

Having decided on the type of organization of levels, you can begin to draw up a design project.

Features of designing a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Before starting work, you need to draw up a diagram ceiling structure. This will make your work much easier and avoid many mistakes. It is especially important to draw up a project if you are a beginner and do not have special installation skills. If possible, it is better to make a drawing of the future structure in 3D format using special computer programs.

During the process, the following nuances must be taken into account:

Room height. A two-level ceiling takes up almost 10 cm of ceiling height. To save space, you can level the covering and install a second tier on it.
Lighting. You need to think about the location of the lamps at the design stage. Please note that with the help of well-chosen and placed lighting fixtures, you can zone a room or focus on the necessary decorative elements.
Humidity level. Installation of conventional drywall in rooms with high humidity is not implemented. For this purpose, special moisture-resistant sheets are produced. They are distinguished by the greenish tint of cardboard. For installation in the kitchen, where the humidity is not very high, ordinary sheets are suitable, but they should be treated with several primer layers.

Remember that the smooth lines of the second level of the suspended ceiling are in best harmony with the dynamic interior of the room. If the furnishings and color scheme of the room are laconic, then it would be optimal to make the second tier with straight lines.

Selection of materials and tools for installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling

You need to purchase plasterboard sheets from reliable suppliers. It is important to pay attention to the availability of quality certificates for products. Select plasterboard sheets depending on the operating conditions of the room in which they will be installed. Drywall can be ordinary (brown-gray), moisture-resistant (greenish), fire-resistant (red).

Plasterboard with a thickness of 8-9.5 mm is suitable for installing ceilings. Sheets 1.2 cm thick are not recommended for installation on the ceiling due to their heavy weight and inefficient use of wall height. The second tier is traditionally made of arched gypsum boards, the thickness of which is 6 mm. Please note that it is not recommended to buy drywall back to back. Buy with a reserve of 3-5%.

It is necessary to take a responsible approach to the selection of other structural elements (profiles and fasteners). The use of low-quality frame parts will significantly reduce the service life of the structure and the reliability of fixation. For installation you will need UD and CD profiles, CD connectors, “crabs”, corner and two-level (try to use the latter as rarely as possible), straight and spring hangers.

As for fastening elements, during installation work dowel screws, anchor wedges, metal screws with press washers (“fleas” 9.5 * 3.5 mm) and self-tapping screws for fixing gypsum boards are used. There should be plenty of fasteners.

When calculating, consider the following indicators:

The frame is fixed to the base ceiling in increments of 60 cm.
Plasterboard sheets are attached in increments of 25 cm.
To install one “crab” you will need 8 screws.
One suspension unit is fixed with six self-tapping screws.

To seal the seams you will need gypsum putty, and to strengthen the gaps - serpyanka and fiberglass. Additionally, if desired, you can purchase sound and thermal insulation materials. For these purposes, you can use a roll mineral wool.

As for tools, in addition to a hammer drill and a screwdriver, you will need a knife for cutting plasterboard, a hydraulic level, a profile cutter and a painting cord.

Preparatory work before installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling

First you need to prepare the basic ceiling covering. We carry out the work in this way: we remove the old finish and crumbling plaster, if necessary, we get rid of stains of fungus, mold, rust, soot and grease, we seal large cracks with cement-based putty, and prime the surface.

It is also necessary to bring the sheets into the room in advance and leave them in a horizontal position for several days to adapt to the temperature and humidity conditions. Before starting work, it is recommended to turn off the power to the room. Prepare protective equipment in advance: goggles, gloves and a respirator.

DIY two-level plasterboard ceiling

This method consists of a phased installation of the first and second levels of the structure. Thus, it is possible to implement a project with a small second tier, since it will be attached to the first.

Instructions for marking the surface for attaching drywall

This is one of the main stages of installing two-level plasterboard ceilings. The entire course of further work depends on the correct application of markings to the surface.

In the process, we adhere to the following action plan:

We mark the installation network from the reference width and length.
In the middle of the circles we screw temporary self-tapping screws into the base covering and wrap a cord around them with a pencil fixed at the edges. We draw circles.
We apply curved elements on thick cardboard in real scale, cut them out and display them on the base coat.
When the markings on the ceiling are completed, we begin measuring and marking the levels. To do this, we measure all angles.
In the lowest corner we mark the distance to the first level. Usually it is from 10 cm.
We stretch the painting cord along the wall, measuring the evenness with a hydraulic level.
We make a beating around the perimeter of the entire room.

You can speed up and make work easier by using a laser level.

Installation of the first level frame for a plasterboard ceiling

During the work, be sure to accurately follow the contours that were previously drawn on the surfaces.

We install the frame in the following order:

Along the perimeter of the room on the walls in increments of 60 cm we fix guide profiles (UD). On the ceiling, we maintain a distance of 40 cm. For fastening on rounded areas, we make notches on the profile in increments of 2.5 cm and bend it to the required radius.
We attach straight hangers in 60 cm increments. We bend or cut the ends.
We fix the ceiling profiles (CD) onto the hangers.
We attach “crabs” to the places where the second tier will be installed.

At this stage, you can install mineral wool in the interprofile recess, which has sound and thermal insulation characteristics. You can secure it with the ends of the hangers.

Installation of a second-level frame for a plasterboard ceiling

Work can begin only after the second level drawing has been applied to the ceiling. During work, be sure to compare the result obtained with the drawing to avoid mistakes.

We install according to the following instructions:

We fix the ceiling profile (UD) on the ceiling and wall according to the drawing.
We cut the guide profile to the length on which the second tier will be placed.
On one side of the made sections we cut out peculiar “tongues”, cutting off the profile sides.
We insert it with a smooth edge into the UD profile on the ceiling and fix it with metal screws in increments of 50-60 cm. Reducing the pitch will make the structure heavier, while increasing it will make it less reliable and not rigid enough.
On curved areas we attach profile sections in increments of 20-30 cm.
We install a ceiling profile on the hanging sections, using metal screws as fasteners.
We cut the guide profile along the length of the side of the base to the ceiling profile on the wall and fasten both sides with metal screws.

At the same stage, you should start laying the wiring and supplying communications. All cables are placed in a corrugated sleeve made of heat-resistant plastic, which is fixed to the base covering. You also need to fix the split systems, ventilation ducts and pipes. Where lighting fixtures are installed, wires must be removed.

Features of fixing plasterboard to the ceiling

The optimal mode for working with plasterboard is the following: humidity - up to 75%, temperature - from 16 degrees. To cover the frame, you will need an assistant, since the sheets are quite heavy and difficult to handle alone.

We fix the drywall, adhering to the following algorithm of actions:

Using self-tapping screws in 15 cm increments, we fix the first corner sheet. We deepen the fastener caps, but moderately, so as not to damage the base.
On the opposite side we attach the second sheet in the same way.
If necessary, mark the sheet according to the drawing and cut out the desired shape using a knife or jigsaw.
We fix the side parts to vertically located guides.
We cut out round horizontal surfaces from a whole sheet or compose them from separate segments.
If curved elements are required for vertical fixation, we roll the cut out part with a needle roller.
Spray the treated plasterboard and leave for an hour.
We cut it on the convex side, place it on the edge and bend it on the floor.
Using weights, fix the sheet in this position and wait for it to dry.
We attach it to the ceiling.

Don't forget to pull out the wires to install the lighting fixtures. Please note that lamps of any power can be mounted in a plasterboard ceiling, unlike tension structures.

Technology for finishing a two-level plasterboard ceiling

The final stage of installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands is grouting the seams and reinforcing the coating. We carry out the work in this order: glue sickle tape at the joints, apply along the seam putty mixture Using a small spatula, putty on the screws.

Next, attach squares of fiberglass to PVA glue, apply a layer of finishing putty up to 1.5 cm thick. After drying, sand with fine-grained paper and prime the surface. After this, you can begin finishing and installing lighting fixtures.

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling using the reverse fixation method

This method differs from the previous one in that the lower level of the structure is installed first and only then the upper one.

During the process, we adhere to the following instructions:

We apply markings to the ceiling and walls, according to the design of the future structure.
We fix the guide profile along the lines on the ceiling and walls. If bends are necessary, we make cuts on adjacent sides.
We mark the mounting points of the ceiling profile in increments of 0.4 meters.
We carry out projections of the profile axes and install spring hangers in these places in increments of 0.6 meters. We use anchor dowels as fasteners. But it is not advisable to use dowel-nails. The plastic base softens when heated, so in the event of a fire in your apartment or on the floor above, the ceiling will simply fall on your head.
We cut sections from the ceiling profile to the height of the second tier, make tongues and fix them on the guide profile.
We form the lower contour from the ceiling profile and attach it to the resulting racks.
We fix individual longitudinal sections between the structure and the wall profile.
We fix the transverse profiles using “crabs”.
We install direct hangers at the upper level installation area.
We sheathe the gypsum board ceiling using self-tapping screws.
We putty the joints and reinforce the coating with fiberglass.
We apply finishing putty, sand the surface and prime.

In the same way, you can make a plasterboard two-tier structure with only the equipment of the lower level. The top will be used directly base ceiling. In this case, the surface will need to be completely leveled with plaster or putty.

Watch a video about installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling:

It’s not difficult to figure out how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling. You will not have any difficulties in the process if you follow the instructions above. All that remains is to choose the optimal type of structure location and select the material. And then follow our installation tips.

The suspended ceiling system has deservedly won the love of most lovers exquisite interior. These designs themselves express the originality of the owners’ view of the world, their exclusivity as individuals. To create exclusive interiors, two-level plasterboard ceilings are often currently used, photos of which demonstrate various non-standard approaches to solving this design problem.

The distinctive characteristics of plasterboard are strength, hardness, and resistance to mechanical damage. In all cases, the device process suspended structure starts with developing a sketch. The most popular options include wavy lines and round elements - they are especially effective for multifunctional rooms. Laconic shapes are easy to fit into a room of any size.

In some cases there is a need for visual magnification height of the room or its zoning, for this a two-level plasterboard ceiling - perfect solution. With its help, you can, for example, allocate places for resting, eating, working, sleeping, and so on. The design of such finishes, which always look extremely impressive, includes combinations of various shaped elements on the plasterboard ceiling, materials, and lighting. Too complex systems When developing them, they require artistic taste and technical knowledge, since when designing a structure, the load on the frame is calculated and fasteners are selected.

Drafting

At the planning stage of a plasterboard ceiling, one of the most important aspects– determination of the level to which it is permissible to lower the structure. For example, using a floor slab as an upper level allows you to save money and the height of the room. This solution is optimal when creating the design of apartments in Khrushchev-era buildings with low floor heights. Another important step is developing a lighting layout.

Plasterboard ceiling projects

The final drawing indicates the installation locations of supporting profiles, suspensions, and lamps.

When calculating the height of the structure, the existing distance from the floor to the ceiling must be initially taken into account. As a rule, there should be a minimum of 50 mm from the ceiling to the top level, and 100 mm to the bottom. Maximum height two-level design – 250 mm. The ceiling diagram also indicates the location of the curtain rods.

One of the two-level ceiling schemes

The more complex it is, the higher the cost of the structure - each niche and bend increases in cost construction works. How much they will cost is calculated based on the following factors:

price building materials: hangers, profiles, plasterboard sheets;
price finishing works and materials - putties, paints, mesh for reinforcement;
prices for installation work;
cost of electrical work.

Design options with installation of additional lighting

The special charm and exclusivity of a room design with lighting, which can play the role of both the main source of lighting and a decorative element. Almost the most common option at the moment is to use LED lamp, characterized by reliability, efficiency, safety and special effectiveness when the design of the space is formed. This lighting is excellent for plasterboard surfaces in two levels, which are easy to experiment with by creating a variety of patterns and shades.

Another option is ceilings with LED strip lighting, which you can do yourself. In addition, it represents an excellent basis for implementing all kinds of creative ideas. Such lighting equipment is produced in single or full color. The first type is cheaper and more suitable for long configuration lighting devices, when decisive role price plays a role.

Additional lighting equipment is installed before installing the structure or directly into it. It is possible to use lightweight lighting fixtures equipped with their own clamp. Large lamps for plasterboard ceilings, as a rule, are not used due to the significant load they create.

The ceiling design should be stylistically consistent with the overall design concept of the living room.

Hidden backlight

Combination of several types of lighting

Spotlights

Possibility of combining drywall with other materials

Recently, two-level plasterboard systems have become popular, where the lower level is suspended, made of sheet material plasterboard, and the top one is tension. Between them a space is formed in which lighting fixtures are usually located. Often to form unique interior LED strip installed around the perimeter of the levels is used. This source acts as a decorative one, and its color is selected in accordance with the general color scheme interior Usually the LED strip is complemented with a chandelier in the middle of the room.

The combination of drywall and decorative elements such as glass with photo printing looks good. A well-chosen image and lighting will emphasize the style of the interior and help adjust the proportions of the space. The design of the room using stained glass and mirror elements looks extremely original. A two-level ceiling with one of the tiers decorated with volumetric painting is perceived as fresh and interesting.

Combination of drywall and stained glass

Combination of drywall and tension structure

Combination of gypsum plaster and decorative panels

How to install it yourself

If you have sufficient construction skills, a do-it-yourself two-level plasterboard ceiling is a completely feasible idea. In other cases, it is advisable to contact a specialized company with significant experience and a good reputation in the market.

Finishing work includes several stages:

pre-treatment of the floor: leveling, eliminating defects and cracks;
marking of each tier, location of profiles and frames;
laying electrical wiring for lighting fixtures;
fastening the upper level frame;
top-level plasterboard sheathing or execution finishing in the case when it is an overlap;
installation and covering of the frame of the lower tier;
sealing and filling of seams;
installation of lighting fixtures;
finishing of surfaces.

Drywall construction frame

The first stage of installation is the installation of load-bearing and guides of the upper tier, for which two types of profiles are used. Guide structures are required to form top-level figures. The design of curved outlines is created by cutting the profile with metal scissors or a grinder. Racks equal in height to the lower ceiling drop are mounted vertically to connect a pair of parallel guides.

The next stage of installation of two-level ceilings is the installation of racks with a pitch of 600 mm. Transverse jumpers are attached to them at the same interval. The profiles are mounted to the ceiling using direct hangers, fixed at intervals of 400 mm. You need to stock up on a sufficient amount of fasteners, from which you need screws, dowels, self-tapping screws and other elements.

Profiles for drywall

Scheme of ceiling structure for plasterboard

Frame for plasterboard construction

Features of installing drywall sheets

The thickness of the drywall material should be 9.5 mm - this is optimal size. The cutting of gypsum plasterboard sheets is done on the floor, and to make it easier to give the plasterboard a given shape, the bends are moistened. Then the patterns are fastened to the frame profiles. It is also advisable to make holes for lamps during the cutting process.

The final stage is priming the entire structure, sealing the joints with sickle and putty. The clarity of fractures is ensured by using a metal or plastic plaster corner for straight sections and arched ones if their design is curved. Then the surfaces are puttied, primed and finishing is begun.

Correct placement plasterboard sheets for ceiling surface

Correct method fastening plasterboard sheets

Fastening gypsum boards and joints of plasterboard sheets when covering the ceiling

Rules for organizing lighting

Two-level backlit plasterboard designs can be made with different types lighting fixtures, choose different color scheme flow, but in any case a number of requirements must be met:

wiring is carried out exclusively using insulating sealed sleeves;
wires should not come into contact with sharp areas of the metal frame;
wire connections are made using junction boxes, taking into account the design load;
at the lower level, the plasterboard covering is done in such a way as to create an equal protrusion beyond the edges of the structure along the entire perimeter - lighting is installed on it;
to hide the lamps, it is necessary to install an additional side with a height of at least 60 mm - if it is lower, it will make it difficult to change lamps.

Scheme correct location spotlight and hidden lighting

In case of use LED strips, the power and brightness of the lighting is regulated by the number of LEDs per square meter (60-240), they are mounted along the edge of the frame.

Wiring

Drywall is an excellent material for masking electrical wiring. That is why many people make excellent use of this property and install hidden electrical wiring, thereby avoiding the need to make grooves in the walls.

For hidden electrical wiring Corrugated hoses and non-flammable boxes are used. Installation is done as follows:

After installing the profile under the drywall, the stage of laying the telephone, telephone cable, and electrical wiring begins. All wires must be insulated with corrugation to prevent a fire hazard in the future;
To install electrical wiring, you need to stock up on the following materials and tools;
- corrugated hose;
- distribution boxes;
- cable;
- clips for attaching the hose;
- dowel nails;
- hammer drill with drills.
You first need to decide on the location of electricity consumers and mark the route, after which you can pass the cable through the corrugation;
fasten the missing corrugation with the cable to the wall behind profile frame, for which you will need to make holes at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. It is in these places that the clips will be attached using dowel nails. A corrugated hose is subsequently attached to these clips;
installation of distribution boxes is carried out in previously marked places where sockets and switches will be located in the future;
after complete installation of electrical wiring in corrugated pipe, you can begin installing drywall.

All electrical leads must be hidden in a corrugation

Electrical wiring installation

Wires run down through specially prepared holes

Finishing methods

The most common method is painting plasterboard ceilings water-based paint V living rooms and acrylic facade paint in wet areas. Plasterboard structures are often covered with ceiling wallpaper, mainly non-woven or vinyl, which can also be painted during repairs. The design of “liquid” drywall wallpaper allows you to create seamless surfaces with a textile texture. You can decorate a two-level ceiling by using a baguette made of polyurethane or polystyrene foam - it goes well with plasterboard.