Single-lever faucets are a new trend in the design of a modern bathroom or kitchen. The standard herringbone faucet and wall-mounted faucets are losing their popularity against the backdrop of such a functional and stylish analogue. A single-lever (or joystick) faucet is a body with a plate in which cold and hot water are mixed. The plate acts as a lever. This design can be made of ceramic, metal or plastic.
If the joystick mixer fails, it must be disassembled and any problems resolved. To eliminate them, you need to know the types of “one-armed” mixers, as well as the principles of working with them.
Types and features of single-lever mixers
Exist 2 types o bottom lever taps:
Advantages and disadvantages of joystick mixers
Single lever faucets have become popular due to convenience and ease of use. With the help of such mixers, water is quickly regulated desired temperature by moving the lever to the right or left. To increase or decrease the water pressure, the joystick is adjusted from top to bottom. In addition, single lever taps demonstrate long service life. This is due to the fact that in the design of such faucets there are no rubbing elements made of metal, as well as rubber gaskets between the moving parts of the faucet.
The disadvantages of a ball valve are: rapid wear of rubber seals. Therefore, to avoid breakdowns and clogging of the mixer, it is recommended to replace these parts every 2 years. Failure single lever tap can occur if abrasive elements (for example, sand) enter it along with water. This is why it is so important to install special filters to prevent clogging.
Some cheap models of cartridge faucets are difficult to set a comfortable temperature within 35 - 41 degrees. This is due to the fact that inexpensive analogues of such mixers have a small angle for adjusting the water temperature. This design does not allow for precise adjustment, which is not inferior in accuracy to faucets with a ceramic faucet. But disk models from well-known brand manufacturers have wide angle settings up to 15 degrees, which allows you to quickly and easily obtain the required water temperature. This functionality is achieved due to the special design and high-quality material of the parts.
How to properly disassemble a disk mixer
If the plates in the faucet sleeve break, it is necessary to disassemble the mixer. To do this you will need the following tools: screwdriver and hex wrench.
Instructions:
Tip: before buying a new cartridge for the mixer, you need to take with you the old disk that has already failed. The thing is that cartridges can have different diameters holes (3 or 4 cm) and clamps on the bottom plate of the cartridge. Therefore, there is a risk of purchasing a larger or smaller disk. Also, when choosing a new cartridge, you need to pay attention to the disk with a silicone gasket, since it is less susceptible to water.
How to properly disassemble a ball mixer
This type of single lever faucet is as easy to disassemble as a cartridge faucet. It should be borne in mind that if a serious breakdown occurs, you will have to replace the entire mixer. If the malfunctions in the operation of the faucet are insignificant (for example, when the faucet is turned on at full power, the flow of water is weak), you need to disassemble the faucet and repair it yourself. The cause of such a breakdown may be a clogged faucet. abrasive substances.
Instructions:
- Remove the nut from the faucet spout.
- Pull out the mesh, rinsing it with water.
- Place the nut and screen back into the mixer.
If the tap is leaking, it is necessary replace rubber seals for new ones. To do this you will need: a screwdriver and a hex key.
Instructions for replacing the rubber seal:
- The screw is unscrewed and the lever is removed.
- The connection is removed from the thread, then the screw is unscrewed with a screwdriver. Usually plaque collects on it, which needs to be removed with a cloth.
- The rubber seals are removed and replaced with new ones. The ball is also removed.
- After replacing the gaskets, the ball is installed in its place. The seals are secured with a plastic nut.
- The lever is installed and the screw is fixed. Finally, you need to check the operation of the mixer system by opening the tap. There should be no water leaks.
Prevention of breakdowns of a single-lever mixer
In order for joystick taps to serve for a long time, necessary:
Knowing the diagram and principle of operation of single-lever mixers, you can independently repair a failed joystick tap.
How to repair a faucet (video)
Our habit of solving small everyday problems on our own is ineradicable. And it’s not even about saving money, although they are never superfluous. There is something very attractive and understandable about living in an interior that is not only lovingly conceived, but also independently realized.
But do-it-yourself repairs of modern plumbing fixtures can be complicated by the variety of designs of the same faucets. Today we will tell you how to disassemble a ball mixer and repair it. This will help you avoid resorting to the help of specialists if the problem can be fixed on your own.
Until recently, there was no alternative to a valve mixer. And so, with the advent of a single-lever mixer with a ball switch, users were faced with a choice: which faucet to prefer? It turned out that the ball design is in high demand. This is explained by the remarkable performance characteristics this type of mixer.
Another undoubted advantage of the ball mixer is its modern and attractive appearance: it can easily fit into any interior
The new faucet is very convenient to use. You don't have to twist anything to set the required temperature and water pressure. Simply put the lever in the desired position. This elementary procedure is performed automatically over time.
Those who have long preferred this design know roughly what position the rotary handle should be in so that both the pressure and temperature of the water are as comfortable as possible for a variety of purposes. It is useful for beginners to know that the water pressure is adjusted by moving the handle up and down, and the temperature – left and right.
The ball mixer is very functional: it can be easily adjusted to the pressure you need and the required temperature with one movement of the hand
In addition, it is believed that a more reliable ball mixer cannot be found.
Single lever mixer with ball switch
Alas, modern faucets, like their valve assembly, fail from time to time. After all, their production uses the same materials: metal, rubber and plastic, which can wear out during operation or under the influence of external factors.
To repair a ball valve, you need to understand its structure and be able to dismantle it if necessary. The ball device includes:
- rotary handle; At its core, it is a lever, which is sometimes called a “butterfly”.
- stock; The rod seal is adjusted using a nut and washer, which are also included in the package.
- housing with nut; The ball cartridge and rod are located inside this housing.
- ball cartridge; It is fixed using rubber saddles.
Ball cartridge is a non-separable element that has three holes: for incoming cold and hot water and for outlet from the device mixed water required temperature and pressure.
The operating algorithm for a crane of this design is quite simple:
- when the lever is lifted, the ball begins to rotate;
- the holes on the ball cartridge begin to align with similar holes in the seats;
- Depending on the area of coincidence of these holes, the jet pressure changes.
If you handle the mixer carefully, without applying excessive force where it is not needed, products of this design can serve without fail for a long time. However, the following breakdowns can be considered typical for them:
- When the lever is in the blocking position, the flow of water from the tap does not stop.
- A faulty ball faucet provides too little water pressure, despite the fact that the pressure in your home's water supply has not dropped, which can be checked by opening other taps.
- The regulation of the water temperature in the mixers has been disrupted: it is impossible to achieve the required parameters, since the mixing of hot and cold flows occurs in a chaotic manner.
A fairly common malfunction of a ball mixer is manifested by water leakage when the device itself is in the blocking position
Before you begin repairs, you should understand the cause of the malfunction, which manifested itself in one of the ways listed above.
Types of faults that occur
There is space between the ball cartridge and the rubber seats that secure this element. Its clogging is the most common cause of ball valve failure. Even a seemingly insignificant speck can lead to a violation of the tightness of the connection. As a result, the rubber seat may become deformed, causing the ball mount to become unusable.
Another frequently occurring breakdown is a clogged shutter. As such, repairs are not needed in this case. This problem can be solved by simply cleaning the plumbing fixture. True, for this the crane will have to be disassembled. But then, when you collect it, everything will be in order again.
Water may leak from the rotary knob cap. In this case, the connection should be tightened more tightly. If the flow of water stopped, then the reason for it was hidden precisely in a loose connection.
A clogged aerator leads to insufficient water pressure flowing from the faucet spout; this problem can be corrected by simply cleaning the aerator itself or replacing it.
The easiest way to solve the problem is with a clogged aerator. It is this that can become an obstacle to creating normal water pressure. If you remove the aerator and try to run water without it, then the change in pressure will make it clear whether the aerator was the cause of the malfunction. The aerator can be washed and replaced. Or you can simply replace it with a new one, as is done in the event of a complete failure of this part.
O-rings can also wear out. In this case, water may leak from underneath the faucet base. This malfunction is eliminated by replacing failed seals. Before starting work, turn off the water supply, then remove the mixer, disconnecting it from the inlets and unscrewing the nut that secures it. A worn gasket is replaced with a product of the same diameter. If the gasket is selected correctly, it will be installed in place with force. All that remains is to assemble the crane.
The only breakdown in which the mixer has to be completely replaced is a crack in its body: even if the ball switch is mechanically damaged, only this element can be replaced
The situation is worse if the ball cartridge itself is broken. It may crack, and, alas, then it cannot be repaired. You will simply have to replace it with a new one. You will have to act in exactly the same way in case of mechanical damage to the mixer body. There's no point in repairing it. It’s easier to buy and install a new faucet. If you are unable to immediately replace the faucet, you can use a sealant that will temporarily stop the leak, but remember that the device needs to be replaced. And the sooner the better.
Problems especially often arise due to increased hardness of the water circulating in your water supply system. Moreover, the type of mixer you use does not really matter. In order not to change faucets endlessly, you should install a filter that purifies the water. Even a rough cleaning device can block those particles that cause major breakdowns of plumbing fixtures.
Let's start repair work
Let's assume that all precautions have been taken, but still repairing the ball valve of your mixer is inevitable. To repair a ball mixer, you can, of course, invite a plumber. But it is better to try to do this work yourself. There is nothing super complicated about it. Just listen to our advice.
For execution repair work You will need tools, which you must prepare in advance so that they are at hand.
No special tools are required to carry out repair work on a faulty ball mixer: all these items are necessarily present in the arsenal of any home craftsman
- adjustable wrench;
- hex wrench of suitable size;
- a screwdriver that can be used, if necessary, like a thin knitting needle;
- pliers;
- flashlight.
First, you should turn off the supply of hot and cold water, otherwise your manipulations with plumbing fixtures may lead to a flood. Do not forget that there may be residual water in the tap, which should also be drained. Before starting work, you need to cover the sink with a rag. This measure will protect it from possible damage.
Now you can begin dismantling the mixer.
On initial stage repair work, the decorative plug with the image of hot and cold water should be removed; it blocks access to the screw that secures the lever
The sequence of work in this case is as follows:
- There should be a decorative plug on the mixer body that will have to be removed.
- Under the plug there is a hole through which you can get to the screw holding the mixer lever. This screw must be unscrewed.
- The lever is now free and can be removed. If the faucet has been installed for a long time and no one has unscrewed it, significant force may be required at this stage. It is important to act carefully and not damage anything.
- So, we now have access to the dome of the crane and the eccentric located underneath it, made of plastic. Both parts need to be removed. Below them is a ball cartridge. All contaminants that may be found during the dismantling process must be carefully removed.
- The ball switch is removed from the mixer. It must be examined from all sides. As mentioned earlier, if damage is detected on this one, it should be replaced with a new one. Covering cracks on the ball with sealant does not make sense.
- Inspect the rubber seals. They may lose elasticity or simply wear out. New seals must be installed in place of worn-out seals. It is also better to replace the elements that secure the ball switch. If they have worked for a long time, then this should be done even just for preventive purposes.
Plumbing gaskets are consumables: they often fail and have to be replaced; If you have to buy a new pad, take the old one with you so you don't get the wrong size
All that remains is to assemble the mixer. This must be done in reverse order.
You can get more information about repairs from this video:
If you did everything correctly, the mixer should now work properly again. However, the leak may be located under the spout, which is also called a spout or gander. Then you will have to remove the spout and replace the old o-rings with new ones.
Particular attention should be paid to the mixer when you have an old water supply system in your house. In this case, particles of rust and other contaminants may clog the openings in the switch through which hot and cold water flow. These blockages can be cleaned with a cloth or your hands. This procedure should be performed periodically, even just for preventive purposes.
Another problem that may bother owners of ball valves is the annoying noise that occurs when turning on the water. It occurs due to vibration created by air and water currents. Due to its effect on rubber gaskets, they can also begin to vibrate. To avoid this effect, you can reduce the water pressure, install a filter, or achieve a tighter fit of the rubber gaskets.
Externally, a silumin mixer looks no worse than any other model, but such products rarely serve more than a year; You can distinguish them by weight: silumin is very light
The service life of a ball mixer is influenced not only by external factors, but also by the material from which the tap itself is made. There are often cheap models on sale that are made from silumin, an alloy of silicon and aluminum. They are short-lived, but are great for training those who like to do everything with their own hands. And for a long and trouble-free service, it is better to choose a more expensive, but also reliable model.
How to repair a ball faucet in the bathroom
This type of bathroom faucet malfunction, which we want to tell you about, occurs quite often. Therefore, we decided to consider this type of repair of a ball faucet in the bathroom with our own hands in this article. So, we are trying to switch the water from the faucet spout to the shower, but the switch lever switches spontaneously. It turns out that water flows normally from the spout, but it is impossible to supply it to the shower.
Ball mixers are often used in the bathroom; they can also be repaired independently; As a rule, such repairs are limited to replacing the upper or lower gasket
We will try to find the cause of the problem ourselves. In this case, you will have to act at random, since there may be several reasons for such a malfunction.
The initial sequence of actions is as follows:
- unscrew union nut, and then remove the hose;
- remove the top gasket, first prying it up with a thin knitting needle;
- replace the just removed gasket with a new one, moistening it with water before installation;
- We assemble the mixer, bringing it to its original working position.
If the cause of the failure was the upper gasket, then replacing it will eliminate the problem. If we made a mistake, then it’s okay: gaskets are consumables, they must be replaced sooner or later anyway.
Shower still not working? Then we will deal with the bottom gasket.
For this:
- turn off hot and cold water;
- remove the flexible hose;
- after this comes the turn of the adapter, spout and shift lever: we must remove them too;
- now you have access to the eccentric, which also needs to be removed;
- the next one should be the spool: we also dismantle it;
- and here is the lower gasket ring, remove it and replace it with a new one;
- The mixer is assembled in the reverse order of dismantling.
Before you go to the store for new gaskets, be sure to check if you have a supply of these yourself. Supplies. Typically, several spare products of this type are included with the mixer. If there are no gaskets or they are lost, then you can make them yourself, using hard rubber 3-4 mm thick for this purpose.
This video will help you repair the faucet correctly and not forget anything:
Of all the plumbing fixtures and devices installed in an apartment or house, the most frequently used category is probably the kitchen faucet. Cooking food, washing dishes, fruits or vegetables, taking water for drinking or boiling, carrying wet cleaning in the kitchen, a lot of other small household needs - and all this falls on him. It is not surprising that sooner or later a moment comes when the intended operational resources of even the highest quality mixer are exhausted, and certain problems appear in its operation. The likelihood of such a situation will be even higher if at one time, for reasons of economy, an inexpensive mixer of dubious quality was purchased, and the water coming from the mains is not clean, or the condition of the water pipes does not stand up to criticism.
A malfunction immediately causes a lot of unpleasant problems that significantly complicate normal functioning kitchens. What to do - call a plumber or run out and buy a new appliance? Do not rush - these are extreme measures, but first you can try to repair the faucet in the kitchen with your own hands. As practice shows, the overwhelming majority of the most common faults can be repaired. And in the process of restoring the mixer itself, there are usually no operations of such a high level of complexity that they would be inaccessible to the average apartment owner to perform independently.
What are the symptoms of mixer malfunctions?
What obvious and not so obvious signs will tell the owner that the condition of the kitchen faucet should be taken seriously?
- There are always traces of dampness under the kitchen sink, and sometimes even a puddle accumulates. Such problems are the most dangerous, since they are often not noticed immediately, and the “signal” often comes from neighbors below who have a wet spot on their stream.
Of course, more likely the reason lies in a malfunction of the drainage system or poor sealing of the sink in the countertop.
How to fix kitchen sink drainage problems?
Emergency situations in the drainage system - enough common phenomenon, especially in the kitchen. Read what to do if it leaks in a special publication on our portal.
However, if the siphon is absolutely dry, and the gaps around the perimeter of the sink are properly sealed, then you need to look for leaks in the water supply - on the hoses themselves, at the point of their connection with the water pipes, or at the entrance to the mixer itself. Another possible reason is a poor fit or misalignment of the sealing gasket between the faucet and the sink.
- Continuous drops or trickle of water from from liva when the mixer itself is in the “closed” position. This is a clear sign wear of seals or ceramic parts of the valve part.
- A permanent puddle of water near the faucet body. Possible causes are cracks in the body or wear of the O-rings in the rotary spout block.
- Water constantly, in any position of the mixer, leaks from under the valves or the adjusting lever. This may be a consequence of wear of the seals on the axle-box valves, insufficient tightening of the threaded couplings (nuts), cracks in the housing, or failure of the cartridge.
- The rotation of the valves or the movement of the lever-handle is difficult, uneven, and difficulties arise in accurately adjusting the pressure and temperature of the water. This may be caused by the formation limescale, the ingress of solid particles into rubbing parts, wear of mechanical components or their complete failure.
- Insufficient pressure, when everyone the fact that at other water collection points in the apartment (house) there is no such problem. The reasons may be a clogged aerator nozzle, a decrease in the clearance of the internal channels of the mixer, pinched gaskets on the supply lines, poor passage of pipes or flexible hoses.
- Similar reasons can cause strong noise or vibration with seemingly normal water pressure.
The procedure and features of self-troubleshooting techniques, depending on the type of mixer, can vary significantly. It is important to note the following - the vast majority of standard models can be repaired. However, if a complex modern device with thermostatic control or even with electronic touch control is installed, then taking the liberty of disassembling and searching for the causes of abnormal operation is still not recommended, especially when the mixer is still under warranty. In this situation, it would still be wiser to find a truly qualified specialist (most plumbers in advertisements are also in this matter hardly help), or contact customer service.
The author expresses the hope that this publication will help non-specialists understand the issues of installing and repairing a mixer, assess their strengths and make the right decision about the possibility of carrying out the work independently.
Find out how to solve the problems of a cramped bathroom from a new article on our portal.
Problems under the sink
As noted above, constant dampness or puddles under the sink may be a consequence of the emergency condition of the supply from the water pipes to the mixer.
To check the correctness of this assumption, it is necessary to close the mixer and allow the water to flow freely from the sink, so that there is no excess pressure in the siphon. There should be no moisture on the countertop around the sink. Then take a rag and wipe the siphon, supply hoses, and all connecting units - fittings, nuts, couplings dry. After a few minutes it will be possible to visually and to the touch check whether there are signs of water escaping under pressure in the water supply network.
- Particular attention should be paid to the places where hoses are connected to the water supply - leaks often occur here due to corrosion of the edge of the threaded end of an old steel pipe.
The weak point is the connection of the flexible line with old steel pipes If this is really the case, then the best choice would be to reconstruct the home water supply network - replacing it with polypropylene or metal plastic. But this is a large-scale undertaking, and in order to quickly eliminate the leak, you need to bring this connecting node into relative order.
By the way, the figure above shows a fundamentally incorrect connection between a flexible hose and a steel pipe. “Packaging” using FUM tape or tow is completely unnecessary. The hose nut must have a gasket that, when tightly fitted to the end of the pipe, completely prevents water from escaping. But winding can even seriously interfere with the normal sealing of this connection.
It is necessary to check whether the nut is tightened tightly and whether it is loose. However, great efforts should not be made when tightening it - you can squeeze the gasket, and the leak will become even worse.
If tightening does not help, close the general water supply tap to the apartment, unscrew the nut completely, drain the remaining water into a substitute basin and inspect the end of the pipe. If its edge is uneven and corroded, then there will not be a good seal with the hose. In this case, the best solution is to pack a factory-made extension adapter onto the thread (naturally, using FUM, or better yet, tow with a special paste like “Unipac”), the edge of which will ideally fit to the hose gasket.
The sealing material is tightly wound around the threaded part of the pipe in a clockwise direction. Then the adapter is screwed on and tightened tightly with an open-end or gas wrench. Now you can reconnect the hose, tighten the nut with moderate force, open the water supply and check for leaks. Most likely, everything will be fine.
- The second option is that everything is dry at the connections, but you can clearly feel the appearance of water on the hose braid. Cause pretty common– alas, the quality of the hoses is very often low. It happens that the rubber tube located inside the braid breaks, and sometimes the metal ends give rise to cracks, especially if they are made of silumin.
In this case, you should not wait for the problem to develop, but immediately change the eyeliner to a new one. A small leak can suddenly turn into a complete rupture of the hose with all the understandable catastrophic consequences.
To replace the liner, most likely, you will have to temporarily remove the mixer - remove the old hoses and carefully tighten the fittings of the new ones into nests located on the lower end of the device body without dismantling it is extremely difficult, and in many models, simply impossible.
To dismantle the mixer, of course, first turn off the cold and hot water supply taps, release the pressure, then disconnect both flexible hoses from the pipes. Further actions depend on the type of faucet mounting. It's not difficult to figure this out.
— A very common fastening scheme is with studs (one or two), which are screwed into the body from the bottom of the mixer, and nuts that press a horseshoe-shaped plate with a rubber or polymer lining to the underside of the sink.
It is necessary to loosen and twist the nuts from the studs (sometimes during dismantling the stud itself is unscrewed - no big deal), and then pull the mixer up. For nuts, a 10mm wrench is usually used, but you need to be prepared for the fact that in practice you will find 11mm or even 9mm nuts.
After removing the mixer, you can immediately check the condition of the gasket ring between the body and the sink. Its unsatisfactory condition often causes leakage from the surface of the sink down through the mounting hole for the mixer. If the gasket is deformed, you should purchase a new one (it is shown with an arrow in the picture).
The studs usually have slots for a straight or shaped screwdriver. But you don’t have to rely on them too much when dismantling - it will still take force to unscrew the fastener wrench. You can use a screwdriver when reassembling the mixer - this will make it easier to fix the studs themselves into the body from the mixer.
— Another type of fastening - the lower part of the mixer itself has a cylindrical threaded part, which is inserted into the mounting hole of the sink, and then a powerful nut is screwed from below, securely fixing the device.
By the way, this design of the mixer sometimes allows you to unscrew the hoses without even dismantling the device itself. But this will not be easy to accomplish.
Imagine working in a very cramped space - under kitchen sink, where it is almost impossible to take a comfortable position to wind the tool and apply sufficient force. And if there was also a leak at the place where the hoses were connected, then you can often find a generally sad picture when all the nuts are covered with a layer of oxides and limescale, and do not immediately yield to the force of the wrench.
Therefore, many craftsmen advise removing the sink to dismantle and reinstall the kitchen faucet. This is usually not difficult - just remember to disconnect corrugated pipe drain from the sewer pipe.
Another “advantage” of this approach is that it becomes possible to “refresh” the seal between the sink and the countertop with a new sealant in order to completely eliminate the possibility of moisture getting downwards upon completion of the work. Well, the process of dismantling and installing the mixer will be easier and much better.
Failed hoses cannot be repaired or restored in any way - only replaced! And when choosing a new eyeliner, there may be several options:
— The same, but only high-quality hoses in a flexible metal braid. Be sure to measure the required length so that they are not “tight”, but also do not hang with unnecessary loops. On a pair of hoses, the fittings for connecting to the mixer should be of different lengths - this will facilitate installation.
— A more reliable option is modern corrugated stainless steel hoses. They are tougher and somewhat more difficult to work with. But in terms of durability and reliability, they significantly benefit.
More reliable - corrugated stainless steel hoses — Some artists prefer hard eyeliner made from metal-plastic pipes. For this, there are special fittings with fittings for transition to the corresponding pipe. You'll have to tinker a little longer, but you won't have to worry about this section in the future.
The procedure for reinstalling the mixer depends on its design.
— If it is fixed with studs, then the hoses are passed through the mounting hole of the sink, first a ring-shaped gasket is put on them, burying the joint between the mixer and the sink, and then the fittings are screwed into nests housings. It will be more convenient to tighten the short fitting first, and then the long one. The fittings have their own sealing rings, but still experts advise making a small winding on the thread - for reliability.
Then the studs are attached, the mixer is installed in the socket, and a gasket and a horseshoe-shaped strip are put on underneath. Now all that remains is to tighten the nuts tightly, while not forgetting to monitor the centering of the device in the center of the mounting hole and how the gasket ring fits.
— If the design of the mixer involves installing it on a nut, then it is better to insert and screw the fittings after fixing the device on the sink.
— The same is done if a rigid metal-plastic liner is planned. In this case, the curved fitting with the fitting is screwed in first, and then the straight one.
If everything is connected, then you can install the sink in place, not forgetting to seal the gap between it and the countertop.
Correct installation of the mixer is the key to its long-term operation
You can learn more about the nuances by reading a special publication on our portal.
And one more tip to finish with the “bottom” problems. If flexible supply hoses are preferred, then installing Aqua-Stop safety valves would be a very reasonable solution. They are packed on water pipes(you can replace those same extension cords mentioned above), and hoses are already connected to them.
Aqua-stop valve If suddenly the hose Sun If it “explodes”, the valve will immediately shut off the water supply and prevent a flood. It's probably worth spending a little more to ensure safety.
Well, now let’s move on to considering problems with the mixer itself.
Problems from above - troubleshooting faucets
If it is obvious that the mixer is not working as required, water is oozing from it, it does not regulate pressure and temperature, the flywheels or lever turn with difficulty or, conversely, too easily, without blocking the current water, then problems should be looked for in the device itself.
General problems - water leaking through the faucet
The first reason is a housing defect.
— If the taps are working normally, but constant water leaks are visible on the body of the mixer, then with a high degree of probability we can assume that the body has cracked. It may be almost invisible to the eye, but for water it is enough. The reason may lie in the poor quality of the product, in the use of a fragile and corroding metal - silumin - in the manufacture, in excessive tightening of nuts or taps - this can cause the seat to burst, in mechanical damage to the device.
You need to carefully examine the body with a magnifying glass - this usually gives results. And if a crack is detected, then such a mixer can be considered practically unsuitable for further use. Sealing cracks with any compositions, including “ cold welding“If it does give a result, it will be for a very short time and without a guarantee that a more serious accident will not happen at a time when the owners are not at home. The best thing is not to take risks, but to go for a new mixer.
Choosing a kitchen faucet is a responsible task
If circumstances force you to purchase a new faucet, try not to repeat old mistakes and purchase a truly high-quality device. – in a special publication on our portal.
The second reason for leakage is wear of the seals in the rotating spout block.
Kitchen faucets, as a rule, always have a spout that can be rotated around a vertical axis. It is clear that with prolonged use, the seals gradually wear out and begin to leak pressurized water from the housing to the outside.
The solution to this problem is to replace the gaskets (cuffs). And the operating procedure depends on the mixer model.
The easiest way to do a remo nt cmowner who has The spout is located on top and is attached to the body with a nut.
Careful not to damage outer covering, using an adjustable wrench, the nut is loosened, unscrewed, and the spout (or, as it is also called, the gander) is carefully gradually pulled out upward.
On the lower cylindrical part, in special grooves, there are rubber gasket rings - one or two (shown by red arrows). Above, directly under the nut, there is usually another ring - plastic (blue arrows). It is usually split, and does not take a direct part in the process of sealing the hinge - it rather acts as a centering, locking element, and to a certain extent also performs the function of a “sliding bearing”.
If there were leaks in this part, and the spout itself was loose, then all the gaskets should be changed, since they are definitely worn out. The plastic split ring also needs to be replaced.
These spare parts are literally “penny”, and they are easy to find in any plumbing store. It is recommended to take the removed spout with you in order to accurately select gaskets of the required diameter.
Before reassembling the parts, they must be cleaned of any traces of limescale or rust. When placing the rubber rings on the spout shank, be careful not to tear them. To make work easier, you can lightly coat the surface with silicone grease. The rings should fit snugly into their grooves. Place the split plastic ring and not difficult at all.
Once the new gaskets are on, the spout can be put back in place. But first you need to thoroughly wipe the inside of the seat with a soft cloth - there may be limescale or corrosion build-ups there. After cleaning, the shank is progressively, with a certain force, but carefully lowered into the socket until it stops, and then the nut is tightened. Then you can check the flow of the spout from left to right, and the absence of leaks when starting the water.
The situation is somewhat more complicated if the leakage comes from the joints of the swivel spout block in single-lever mixers (a typical leak location is shown by arrows in the figure).
Eliminating such a defect will require disassembling the entire device, which will be discussed below.
Problems in the mixer valve mechanism
The most common problems occur in the operation of the valves that regulate the flow of water into the mixing chamber. These breakdowns make themselves felt by leakage through the valves or the top of the mixer, the inability to completely shut off the water, the difficulty of rotating the flywheels or moving the lever, and unsatisfactory mixing of hot and cold flows. Elimination of defects depends entirely on the design of the mixer - there are many options.
Repair work with a two-valve mixer
The figure shows a schematic diagram of the design of most two-valve mixers.
The housing (item 1) has three socket holes. A spout-gander (item 2), which we have already dealt with above, is installed in the central one. Left and right in nests faucet axle boxes (item 3) of one design or another are screwed in - they are responsible for supplying and shutting off water to the mixing chamber. Rotation is transmitted to them through decorative flywheels (item 4). These flywheels (“wings”) are fixed to the tap stem with a screw (pos. 5), the head of which is closed with a protective cap (pos. 6), which also serves as a color indicator of cold or hot water.
If there are no cracks on the body of the mixers, then all the problems that arise are related to the fact or other defect of the axle-box crane. Some of them you can try to eliminate on your own, while others will require replacing this assembly.
First of all, you need to unscrew the valve axle boxes to determine their type.
To do this, first carefully pry off the protective plastic cap with a knife (for some models it may be on a thread - then it is carefully unscrewed).
Then use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw and, using a progressive movement, carefully remove the handwheel from the splines of the valve stem.
This allows access to hexagon of the valve, through which it will be possible to unscrew it from its socket. Sometimes behind the handwheel there is also a decorative cap that completely hides the tap. It must be carefully unscrewed - usually a hand is enough for this.
After this, the crane axle box itself is unscrewed with an adjustable wrench. Now it should be subject to revision.
Axle-box valves can be of two types - with a progressively moving rubber gasket-latch, or with ceramic plates. It is not difficult to distinguish them even with the mixer assembled - the first type requires several revolutions of the flywheel from the closed position to the closed position, and the second is limited to one revolution, a half, and sometimes even a quarter.
And axle boxes of both types can be like common problems, and specific malfunctions. Let's look at it one by one.
- The figure shows a box with a rubber valve, which is given translational motion when the handwheel rotates. Moving down, the valve closes the channel of water flow from the supply to the mixing chamber. And vice versa, the higher the gasket rises, the larger the “window” for the passage of water.
The arrows show the most vulnerable places where leaks most often occur.
1 – wear of the gasket on the valve itself makes it impossible to completely shut off the flow of water into the spout. This usually happens either from prolonged use or when the water is heavily polluted. Solid particles do not allow the gasket to completely block the channel; the user, naturally, tries to tighten the tap even more, thereby pressing these solid inclusions into the rubber. Eventually, from from Faucet leak - constant leakage. The solution in this case is simple - replace the gasket with a new one.
The rubber band itself is held on the rod with a screw (for a screwdriver or, as in the picture, with a hex head), and is protected around the circumference from bursting by a metal shell.
— It is necessary to unscrew the locking screw.
— Then the rubber gasket is pryed off with a thin screwdriver or knife and removed from the shell.
— A new gasket purchased according to the sample is installed in place and secured with a screw.
— After this, you can install the crane axle box in place.
2 – wear of the rubber sealing ring leads to water leakage through threaded connection mixer housings and faucet axle boxes with high open water pressure. This happens infrequently, but it can be eliminated quite easily - by replacing the ring. Etc There is no need to listen to anyone, and in no case should you “pack” the tap with FUM tape or tow - most often this extreme leads to the fact that the nest is damaged T t crack, and after that the entire mixer can only be thrown away.
3 and 4– wear of the internal seals of the valve axlebox. This is accompanied by water leakage in the area of the rod, near the flywheel. In this case, the kinematic mechanism of the crane usually suffers - it begins to jam, it is difficult to turn, etc. Optimal output – complete replacement crane axle box. There are, of course, certain restoration technologies - packing a new oil seal, boring and lapping the screw gear. However, this, firstly, is not possible on all models, and secondly, even the highest quality crane axle boxes are not so expensive to resort to such complex restoration work.
Flaw 2 is equally inherent in axle boxes with a ceramic plate valve, which will now be discussed.
- Axleboxes with a ceramic valve are designed differently.
Blue arrows show stationary parts, green arrows show moving parts.
1- housing in which the entire mechanism is assembled. It has a threaded part for screwing into the mixer socket.
2 – rotary rod with its own sealing rings. Rotation from the rod is transmitted to the movable ceramic plate (item 3). On given It is not visible in the figure, but when assembled, a fluoroplastic gasket is placed in the upper part between the rod and the body, which plays the role of a thrust sliding bearing.
A second ceramic plate (item 4) is fixedly installed in the lower part of the housing. When assembled, it is tightly ground to the movable one. Turning the rod leads to the alignment of the figured cutouts (windows) on the plates - this opens the flow of water. Depending on the combined area, the pressure becomes greater or less. The tap is closed. the windows are diametrically opposite position.
When installed in the mixer, the lower part of the axle box fits tightly to the round feed channel due to the ring silicone gasket (item 5).
When assembled, the axle box is held in place by a locking bracket (item 6) or a washer (depending on the model - a special groove is made in the rotating rod for this clamp. There are clamps in the form of a small threaded rod with a slot for a screwdriver.
To repair axle-box cranes of a similar design, you can find special repair kits - the main thing is that they fit a specific model. What could be the reasons for the crane axle box not working properly:
A– wear or deformation of the silicone gasket on the bottom. Water at closed position the tap continues to ooze into the spout. Must be replaced.
b– wear of the sealing ring at the junction of the tap and mixer (exactly Also, as on a tap with a rubber valve).
V– one of the most common reasons is the depletion of the fluoroplastic plate. The tight fit of the rubbing parts (ceramic plates) to each other is disrupted, and when closed, the water does not completely shut off. The defect is easily checked - if you press the axlebox rod from above while water is oozing, the flow stops. Eliminated by replacement fluoroplastic rings for new ones.
G– two sealing rings on the rod prevent water from flowing upward from the body. Wear will make itself felt by leaking water in the flywheel area. To be replaced.
d– abrasive wear of adjacent surfaces of ceramic plates. This doesn’t happen often – plumbers claim that ceramic parts are “the last to go.” A possible reason is heavily polluted water with solid inclusions. The faucet does not hold water and rotates unevenly and with force. If the repair kit contains plates, then they are also easy to change.
The process of overhauling and repairing the crane axle box is shown in detail in the video:
Video: how to repair a ceramic faucet axle box
Well, if it was not possible to find the required kit, you will have to change the crane axlebox completely.
If you need to replace a crane axle box, then to purchase a new one it is best to take the dismantled one with you to the store. What is important here is the diameter of the landing thread, the installation length of the entire assembly, and other design features (for example, threads for installing a decorative cap on top) and so on . If desired, you can replace taps with rubber valves with “ceramics” and vice versa. And one more thing - to select an axle box, it is advisable to take the handwheel (lamb) to the store. It happens that the splines of the new axlebox rod do not coincide with the old flywheel.
Before reinstalling the tap, you must thoroughly wipe the seat with a clean cloth - there shouldn't be small debris, limescale - anything that can interfere with the normal screwing and tight fit of the gaskets.
When installing a new axlebox, do not use excessive force - you can damage the body from the mixer or compress the gaskets. It is best to do this - with the water supply closed, the tap is screwed into the socket until it stops by hand. Then the supply is opened, and the tap is carefully turned with a key until water stops coming out from under it.
After this, you can put the decorative cap (if provided), the flywheel in place, fix it with a screw and close the hole with a plug of the corresponding color.
After carrying out these steps, the two-valve mixer should work normally.
Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ceramic cartridge
If problems arise with a single-lever mixer, then there may be two completely different options. Thus, the device may have a valve device in the form of a cylindrical cartridge with ceramic plates inside, or a spherical water flow switch.
First, let's look at the cartridge option.
The problem makes itself felt by the impossibility of blocking the flow from from leakage when the lever is completely lowered, water seeping through the top of the mixer, excessively light or, conversely, difficult movement of the lever with unsatisfactory mixing quality.
The best solution is to replace the cartridge with a new one. Doing it yourself is not as difficult as it might initially seem.
The schematic diagram of a mixer with a cartridge is shown in the figure:
1- metal body with mixer.
2 – cartridge.
3 – clamping fixing nut that holds the cartridge in a tightly pressed position in the body. Usually it is buried on top with a decorative cap (item 4).
5 – mixer handle, fixed on the plastic lever of the cartridge with a screw (item 6)
7 – swivel spout. The tightness of this moving unit is ensured by two o-ring gaskets (item 8), and the smooth running is ensured by fluoroplastic rings (item 9) acting as sliding bearings.
10 – flow aerator located at the end of the spout. To seal its installation, a gasket (pos. 11) is used.
In order to replace the cartridge, work is performed in the following sequence:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The picture shows a set of tools that may be needed to replace the cartridge. |
 | The first step is to carefully pry up and remove the plug that covers the hole for access to the screw securing the handle. Sometimes the plug and screw, in some models, are located at the top of the handle - this is easy to determine. If repairs are made without removing the mixer from the sink, it is recommended to close the drain hole - small parts they really “love” to fall into it. |
 | Try shining a flashlight into the opened hole to determine which head has the retaining screw. There may be a straight screwdriver, a curved screwdriver, or a hexagon screwdriver. Use a suitable wrench or screwdriver to loosen this screw. There may be surprises here - it does not always give in immediately, especially if water has leaked through the top of the mixer. Using brute force is not recommended, as you can tear off the splines, and removal can become a really big problem. It's best to try spraying the screw with WD-40 and letting it "go away." |
 | After the screw is loosened or unscrewed, the handle is carefully removed from the cartridge lever upwards. |
 | The next task is to unscrew the decorative cap. It usually yields to hand force. If not, then you can try to move it out of place with a gas wrench or pliers, but only very “gently”, trying not to scratch the coating or deform the thin metal. |
| After removing the cap, the retaining clamp nut will open. |
 | Adjustable or regular open-end wrench the right size the nut turns counterclockwise... |
 | ... and is pulled up, completely releasing the cartridge. |
 | The cartridge is now very easy to remove simply with your fingers, without resorting to any tool. |
 | Do not rush to throw away the dismantled old cartridge - you will need it to purchase a new one. The fact is that there are many models of different standards, differing in diameter, height, channel arrangement, etc. But it won’t be difficult to find a new one in the store based on the sample. |
 | Before installing a new cartridge, you must clean it thoroughly. soft cloth a cylindrical cavity inside the body - there should be no rust, lime deposits, or small particles left there. Installing a new cartridge correctly is not difficult, since almost all models have centering protrusions that must coincide with the corresponding recesses in the body. |
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Again, it is necessary to warn you that you should not use excessive force when screwing the fixing nut, as this can deform the cartridge body or the rubber seals located underneath. It's best to give it a short puff, then turn on the water and check to see if it's coming into the sides of the cartridge. If a leak is detected, slowly tighten the nut until the leak stops.
You can immediately focus on the already mentioned leak in the swivel spout block. The cartridge is here - absolutely nothing how, and the problem is caused by wear of the sealing rings (in the diagram above - item 8). Some models use cuffs instead of rings - this will be visible after disassembly.
To replace the seals, the mixer will have to be disassembled even further in order to remove the rotating spout block from the body. Options may vary depending on the mixer model. So, it happens that this unit is removed upwards - locked with a special cylindrical coupling. But still, more often it is removed in the direction of connecting the supply hoses. For disassembly, in this case, it is impossible to avoid completely dismantling the mixer from the sink (how this is done is already described above).
- A ring-shaped lock nut will be visible from below. Unscrew it - a fluoroplastic ring will be revealed under it.
- Carefully, so as not to damage it, it is removed, and then the entire rotating spout block is removed from the body downwards.
- Now we get to the gaskets (as shown in the diagram above) or cuffs (see picture below).
- These seals will have to be replaced by purchasing new ones based on the sample in the store. At the same time, you can check the condition of the fluoroplastic rings at the top and bottom - perhaps they are also already very worn.
Some craftsmen practice winding to restore the sealing properties of these seals. But still optimal solution will be a complete replacement.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. At the same time, do not forget to install fluoroplastic rings on top and bottom of the rotating block.
Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ball switch block
Not all single-lever faucets have the cartridge discussed above inside - many of them are equipped with a ball-shaped valve assembly. Typical scheme The structure of such devices is shown in the figure:
Top down:
The mixer handle (pos. 1), fixed with a screw (pos. 2), which is covered with a cap (pos. 3).
Below is a metal cap (item 4), which secures the entire valve mechanism in the mixer body. Under it there is a plastic cam with a shaped washer (item 5) - they limit the movement of the ball lever in a certain range. The washer has a dome-shaped bottom and a rubber seal around the circumference for a tight fit to the ball.
The mixing ball itself (item 6), hollow inside, has holes for the passage of water from the liner and exit into the rotary spout block.
From below, rubber valve seats (pos. 7) fit tightly to the ball, which are constantly pressed against its surface by springs (pos. 8).
The design of the mixer below is no longer fundamentally different from that discussed above - a rotary spout block (item 9) with grooves (item 10) for sealing rings (item 11). The entire structure is assembled in a brass body (item 12). An additional aerator (item 13) can also be located inside, providing better mixing of water before being supplied to the spout.
We will not consider problems with spouting - they are practically no different from what has already been stated above. Let's just focus on repairing the valve mechanism.
- Removing the mixer handle is almost the same. The only difference is that the lever on which the handle is attached not rectangular polymer, like a cartridge, but in the form of a metal pin with a groove for a fixing screw.
- To disassemble, you first need to carefully unscrew the top cap. It may have slots on the outside for gripping with a key, or four grooves on the top inside. Of course, it would be better to use a special key. But if it is not there, then the cap is removed from its place, carefully knocking it counterclockwise against the groove with a screwdriver. Another option is to insert round nose pliers into the grooves from the inside.
- When the cap is removed, remove the cam with the washer. You can immediately remove any existing dirt or deposits with a soft cloth.
- Then the ball itself is taken out and the entire valve part is carefully examined.
Valve part with the ball removed - top view The reasons for malfunction may be the following:
- The upper dome washer is dirty or worn (orange arrow). Occurs infrequently, usually eliminated by simply cleaning the surface. The spherical seat for the ball in the body itself is checked in the same way - it also needs to be cleaned.
- Wear of the ball itself (green arrow) - cracks, grooves, etc. It can only be eliminated by replacing it with a new one.
- Wear or deformation of the valve seats (blue arrows) - they do not fit tightly to the surface of the ball and begin to leak water. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.
- Weakening and sagging of the springs (red arrows) do not ensure that the seats are tightly pressed to the ball. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.
If you purchase a repair kit, then repairs are easy.
- Using a thin screwdriver, remove the old valve seats. Then the springs are removed in the same way.
- After thoroughly cleaning the mixer cavity, begin assembly in the reverse order.
- Springs are inserted into the new seats, and then this assembly is carefully placed in the socket until it stops.
- Apply to the cleaned surface of the ball thin layer silicone grease. Then it is installed in the body so that the limiting protrusion on the body fits into the figured groove on the ball.
- Next, a plastic assembly is installed - a shaped dome washer and a cam. It’s difficult to make a mistake here, since there is a groove in the body, and a corresponding protrusion on the cam.
- The upper metal cap is attached and screwed on.
- The mixer handle is placed on the stem and secured with a screw.
At this point, the repair of the faucet with a ball valve can be considered complete.
For greater clarity - disassembly and assembly of a mixer with a ball valve in the video:
Video: disassembling a mixer with a ball valve mechanism
Aerator clogged
Another common problem with the operation of the mixer is poor pressure when the taps are fully open. The problem is usually a clogged flow aerator located at the end of the spout.
Fixing such a problem is very simple.
First you need to unscrew the aerator itself. He can even succumb to the force of his hand. If not, don’t worry, it has two slots for winding the key.
Inside, there will probably be an accumulation of solid impurities that interfere with the free passage of water. They can be washed off, let's direct a powerful pressure from reverse side grids
If this measure does not help, then you can disassemble the aerator by carefully prying plastic mesh up. Small particles may have entered the cavity of the device and clogged the holes. You will have to work with a needle or toothpick to clean them.
It often happens that the blockage becomes “fatal” and cannot be removed. mechanical cleaning. There is nothing to do - take the removed aerator for a sample and purchase a new one.
They are not that expensive, and you can easily afford periodic replacement. But if such a situation occurs often, then it is worth thinking about the fact that the quality tap water extremely low, it is oversaturated with solid inclusions, and requires the mandatory installation of at least mechanical filters.
Find out, and also read useful recommendations, from our new article.
This preventive measure will ensure longer operation of the entire mixer as a whole - suspended particles will not have an abrasive effect on rubber and silicone seals and on the ceramic plates of the valve mechanism.
Modern plumbing is constantly changing its appearance, using more advanced technologies and materials, so it is not just functional and convenient, but also durable. Thousands of companies around the world are developing durable products that are easy to use and maintain.
For example, double-valve faucets, in which it is difficult to set a comfortable temperature, have been replaced by single-lever models that can be easily opened even with one hand. In this article we will tell you what the device is, as well as how to repair a ball bathroom faucet with your own hands.
Design
A single-lever bath mixer is structurally different from a double-valve one. It has only one lever handle, with which you can regulate the temperature and water pressure in the tap. This type of faucet is also known as one-armed bandit, ball, joint, joystick. It performs three main functions: mixing water optimal temperature, jet formation and change in its power. The mechanism of its action is quite simple:
note that single lever mixer consists of the following structural elements: a rotary handle, a faucet cover, a spout with a faucet body, an internal chamber or cartridge, as well as several gaskets and seals.
Kinds
Inside the mixer, as can be seen even from the name of this plumbing fixture, cold and hot water are mixed in order to obtain a stream of optimal temperature. This process is carried out using a ceramic cartridge or ball mechanism. Based on the design of the internal chamber of the mixer, there are 2 types of devices:
Important! Despite the differences in the internal structure, models with a ball mechanism and a ceramic cartridge look and function approximately the same. However, there are also differences: the cartridge is better protected from the accumulation of limescale, and the “ball” is resistant to impurities contained in tap water.
Advantages and disadvantages
Many homeowners pay attention to the single-lever mixer, because its design, repair, and installation are simple, but at the same time very effective and functional. These are more modern devices differ from two-valve ones not only in their more aesthetic appearance. They are also very convenient to use; they allow you to more accurately and quickly adjust the water temperature and reduce its consumption. But they also have disadvantages:
Remember! To increase the service life of a single-lever mixer, you can improve the quality of tap water by installing a special filter, as well as perform timely preventive maintenance of the device.
Problems during operation
Even high-quality plumbing fixtures fail over time. The service life of the faucet depends on the material from which it is made, the quality of the tap water and the intensity of use. The most common problems that arise when using single-lever models are:
Important! No matter how high the quality of the mixer, it needs preventative maintenance. Even if no problems arise during operation, you need to disassemble the device once every 2 years, clean it, and replace the gaskets. After all, even a small speck that gets under the seal can cause a leak.
Repair
Many home craftsmen are interested in how to repair a single-lever ball mixer if it begins to work poorly. Experienced plumbers say: if the device becomes unusable, you can only completely replace the cartridge or clean it, as well as replace the gaskets. To do this you need to proceed as follows:
Please note that each plumbing fixture has its own service life, which depends on its quality and intensity of use. However, this period can be extended if you improve the quality of tap water using a purifying filter, as well as regularly carry out preventive maintenance of the device. For a single-lever mixer, maintenance consists of periodic disassembly and cleaning, as well as timely replacement of rubber seals.
Video instruction
The ball faucet has been used for quite a long time due to its convenience in the bathroom. Easy regulation of the water temperature you need, pleasant appearance. But something went wrong and the faucet began to function - time to call a plumber? This is not the only thing you can do - you can try to repair the ball faucet in the bathroom yourself.
Quick Fixes
For what reasons does a ball mixer need to be repaired? There are several of them, mainly various cracks that appear on the body under the influence of water. Or the gasket is worn out. The housing defect can be temporarily eliminated by using cold welding, but most likely you will still have to replace the mixer.
If the water pressure seems strong to you, then pay attention to the aerator (the hole in the tap from which water flows) - it may become clogged, which will cause the problem. Cleaning it is quite easy - unscrew it, clean the mesh from dirt (you can, for example, use a toothbrush), then put everything back in its original position.
Disassembling a ball mixer
It is enough to eliminate such problems yourself, without thoroughly understanding the mechanism. What should you do if you have to disassemble the mixer and look for a problem in the gasket, or take out the cartridge and clean it? Now let’s take a step-by-step look at the ball mixer and take a look.
1. Before disassembling, make sure you have turned off the water. Inattention may have adverse effects;
2. Now use a screwdriver to disconnect the decorative plug, which is located in the middle of the body (for beauty, on some faucets it is also a circle painted in red and blue - to determine the sides from which direction the hot and cold water will flow, respectively) - a screw is hidden behind it, which must also be unscrewed and the lever removed;
A useful tip is to repair a ball mixer without a hex wrench, just attach a screwdriver to the fastening nut and tap with a hammer.
3. Remove the lever with the cap and remove the cartridge, having previously unscrewed the cam washer;
4. The faucet has been disassembled and now inspect it for defects - look at the condition of the gasket, pay attention to the springs that support the rubber seals in the holes of the ball;
Springs can be replaced, just like a faucet that has worn out over time. Clean the parts from contamination, pay enough attention and effort to this.
5. The cartridge has a valve; a blockage may form between it and the ball, in which case it is better to replace the cartridge itself. The problem may lie in the correct selection of the cartridge - repairing the mixer yourself is not particularly difficult;
6. When buying a new cartridge, take the old one so as not to be mistaken with the size - each comes in a different diameter. When installing, make sure that the cartridge is connected to the structure in the housing so that the holes align. After this, carefully tighten the washer with your hands, when it is no longer physically possible, apply the key - but not tightly, it should become tight;
7. Now you can run the water and put the cap in place, and then put the lever on (here everything is in reverse order - tighten the screw and secure the decorative plug).
Useful nuances
If you need to replace the gasket, then this is also easy to do with your own hands - you already know the process of disassembling the device; in the case of the gasket, you will need to remove the O-rings and replace them, lubricating them with plumbing grease before replacing. A useful recommendation would be the use of non-toxic silicone - it doubles the service life of rubbing parts.
When disassembling, you need to keep in mind that the fastening for each mixer is different, so take this point into account when disassembling - if there is a rod, then it needs to be lifted and removed, its presence indicates that there are no screws. The gasket in the mixer may boil, in which case it only needs to be replaced.
There are several nuances that are useful to know and worth arming yourself with:
- For the body, use the cream or powder that is needed for the metal - otherwise there will be defects on the metal itself;
- Wash away any soap or shampoo marks - otherwise the chrome may darken;
- We strongly recommend installing a water filter.
What is a ball mixer?
The article mentioned the mechanism of the ball mixer very superficially - attention was focused on those areas that should have been pointed out during repairs, but the ball mixer itself was not examined carefully enough. Each person must understand the structure of the entire structure in order to take the necessary measures in the event of an unexpected breakdown and fix the problem on their own.
So, most important element ball mixer is the ball itself made from of stainless steel, which is located in the valve body. It has three holes: two are for hot and cold, respectively, and the third is the outlet, from which water flows at the required temperature - hence the “insides” of the ball are called the mixing chamber.
You can ask the question: okay, the purpose is simple and does not raise questions, but how is our impact on the lever reproduced by the corresponding result? That is, how does it happen that we turn the lever, and the ball rotates, applying its holes to the supply pipes? The fact is that the ball is connected to the lever by an adjustment rod - this is how the adjustment occurs. The ball rotates inside thanks to rubber seals.
Repair of a ball mixer, it would seem, should be carried out quite rarely, if only because this design does not cause any complaints and looks quite reliable. However, there are disadvantages here too, one of them is the rubber seals. Rubber wears out quickly, and in a ball mixer this will happen every 2 years, so after a certain period of time they need to be replaced in a timely manner.
Sometimes sand can get into the water - this can damage the tap, so you shouldn’t neglect special cleaning filters, they will really help you, because sooner or later such an embarrassment can happen.
But if the ball mixer is seriously damaged, then its replacement is necessary. You can fix minor damage, but otherwise you will have to buy a new ball mixer.
Replacing rubber seals: repairing a ball mixer
It was mentioned about the wear of the rubber seals, but it is necessary to demonstrate an action plan for replacing them.
So, for this you need:
- You already know the first stage of action - unscrewing the screw and removing the lever;
- Pull out the threaded connection, unscrew the screw with a screwdriver - here you can find a deposit of dirt, which, as you understand, it is advisable to remove;
- Remove the ball and replace the rubber seals;
- Return the ball to its original place, secure the seals with a plastic nut;
- Do the reverse.
The material in the article makes it clear to you that proper use of a ball faucet in the bathroom will help it last much longer than it was intended for. Do timely cleaning, replace rubber seals on time, install filters so that hard water does not corrode rubbing parts, use the correct lubricant.
