How to cover the outside of a house with clapboard? It's easier than it seems. Decorating the inside of a house with clapboards - how to do it yourself? Vertical lining on the facade

Every owner of a private home wants appearance The building was attractive and interesting. For this purpose, they are used to ensure the exterior decoration of the building. Excellent choice Finishing a house with clapboard is considered, which is available in different colors and textures. Covering the outside of a house with clapboard is a fairly simple process; let's look at the finishing stages in more detail.

The use of such external cladding allows you to achieve the following goals:

the appearance of the structure improves;
high-quality wall insulation is ensured;
facades are protected from negative influences various factors atmosphere;
The sound insulation parameters of the entire house are improved.

Cladding facades with clapboard is a simple process that every home owner can handle, so there is no need to involve specialists who ask for a significant fee for their work. However, to do this you need to have a good understanding of the basic rules of work.

Competent choice of facing material

Lining for exterior finishing can be presented in several varieties, and each type has its own characteristics. The most popular options are:

The plastic material is durable and easy to maintain, and can easily withstand various atmospheric influences.
Wooden material is made from wood. Due to its use, the soundproofing and thermal insulation parameters of the structure are significantly improved. However, the care of such cladding is considered specific, since periodically.

To obtain a lining façade of excellent quality and for a long time services, it is recommended to consider the following tips during the selection process:

if selected wooden panels, then their humidity should not be more than 15%;
it is important to carefully inspect each element, since there should be no defects, defects or stains and drips;
V wooden lining there should not be many knots.

Important! The ideal option is lining made from coniferous species wood, since other species are considered unsuitable for outdoor use.

Consistent house cladding technology

How to cover the outside of a house with clapboard? This process is performed in several sequential steps, each of which has its own characteristics and parameters. The main stages that allow you to veneer your home include:

Thus, covering the façade of a building with clapboard, like cladding, is quite simple if you choose the material wisely and apply it correctly.

Painting the coating

As soon as the installation work is completed, it is important to decide what. You can choose both special paints and special transparent impregnations. This ensures protection of the coating from negative atmospheric factors and the effects of insects, and improves the appearance of the structure.

During the painting process, it is important to consider the following features:

the entire lining is first sanded, for which it is recommended to use a grinding machine;
if you plan to use oil paint, then the entire surface is covered in advance with a double layer of drying oil, and painting coatings should be applied only after the drying oil has dried;
during painting, it is important to ensure that all sections of the walls are used, so omissions are not allowed;
For this work, you can use not only rollers and brushes, but even a spray gun, which is considered convenient and modern instrument to create a uniform and high-quality paint layer.

Thus, it is quite simple to sheathe the outside of houses with clapboards, and this process can be carried out by the owner of the building with his own hands. The result is not only an improvement in the appearance of buildings, but also their protection from various negative factors. The thermal insulation and sound insulation parameters of buildings are additionally increased.

Grade of lining

Under the general name “lining” in the catalogs of manufacturers and sellers there are at least a dozen varieties of wooden cladding boards. And since there is no single standard, and each domestic manufacturer works according to their own technical specifications, then they all differ from each other in size and profile type. Even in determining the grade of lining based on the quality of the wood and the cleanliness of the surface treatment, there are certain “liberties” of interpretation.

Important! It is necessary to determine which lining is better for interior decoration of a house only based on their own ideas about classes and quality. “Premium” or “extra” is from the evil one. Sellers are simply trying to attract buyers with such big names.

According to the “old” domestic GOST (for profile parts made of wood) there are two grades. They conventionally divide products into “transparent” and “opaque” coatings. Essentially, there are two grades - I and II.

Eurolining (which was not necessarily brought from Europe) must comply with the European standard DIN 68126, and there are three grades - A, B, C.

The prefix "euro" does not mean high quality– there is also a second grade here

Selection of lining

Conventionally, the entire range of linings can be divided into four large classes:

Domestic profiles. The simplest one is a quarter board. It is rarely used, since there is no convenient “tenon-to-groove” connection. The more common profiles are “standard” and “collective farmer” (“calm”). In the first case, the bevels at the ends of the front panel are standard (at an angle of 45°), in the second - rounded.

Eurolining. It is distinguished by a deeper groove and the presence of a “shelf” in front of the elongated tenon. There are also two design options: standard eurolining has beveled chamfers along the front surface, “soft line” – rounded.

Imitation of timber. By the type of profile, this is a typical “standard” lining, but only more powerful. And although there is overlap at the edges of the size ranges, the difference lies in the purpose. Imitation of timber is used when, when finishing, it is necessary to preserve the style of a “timber” house. Therefore, this type of panels is installed mainly horizontally (and the lining is often installed vertically).

The imitation timber is wider, and it completely replicates the laying of its “full-length” counterpart

Block house. The scope of application is the same as that of imitation timber. But in this case, the front surface of the panel has an oval profile, which, when installed, repeats the relief of the wall made of rounded logs. For interior decoration, the thinnest panels are chosen. They are mounted exclusively horizontally.

If the finishing of the facade is mainly done with lining made of coniferous wood, then for the interior the choice is much wider. In addition to the “popular” pine or larch, you can find offers for the sale of lining made of cedar, oak, linden, ash and even exotic overseas species.

For living rooms there are no restrictions on operating conditions and humidity conditions. The only room where high humidity and “wet” conditions are dangerous for wood is the bathroom. In this case, it is better to use factory-treated lining - the usual technology of “painting” with antiseptics only protects upper layer, and vacuum impregnation in a factory makes the wood in the “mass” invulnerable to moisture and fungal damage, including from the underside surface. Another modern version“factory” protection – heat treatment of panels.

Good to know! Impregnation is one of the most effective methods of impregnation, since during the process of impregnation, air is removed from the pores of the wood, and an antiseptic solution is “pushed” into its place under pressure.

There are also such types of lining profiles as “land house”, finca and a whole subspecies “ wooden wallpaper", differ from conventional lining and eurolining in the complex relief of the front surface. These are decorative wooden panels that are used in doses - for finishing small areas.

The “brick” lining has a relief similar to brickwork

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of wooden houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.

Technology

Finishing with clapboards inside a house can be divided into several main stages: preparation, installation of sheathing, fastening of panels, installation of additional profiles.

Preparation and installation of sheathing

Cladding interior walls of a wooden house occurs along the lathing. And this is one of the few possibilities for hidden installation electrical networks. Of course, you can stretch cables and wires under the floor surface or in the attic along the ceiling, but the vertical sections to sockets and switches must be pulled along the walls. And this is not brick or construction concrete blocks- already in a log or beam standing house It is very difficult to cut a channel, especially considering the constant “breathing” of a wooden house.

And here the main thing is to correctly lay the cables and install the socket boxes. The peculiarity of a wooden house is that all power circuit cables are hidden wiring on a combustible basis must pass in metal pipes(steel or copper). These are the requirements of the PUE. And the thickness of the walls should ensure localization of the cable in the event of a short circuit - the walls of the pipe should not “burn out” from the arc. Therefore, neither plastic nor metal corrugation is suitable here.

As an alternative to hidden wiring under the lining - retro style with open wiring on ceramic insulators

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

First stage preparatory work– laying pipes, installing metal boxes for sockets and switches. And based on the diameter of the pipe and the height of the boxes, the cross-section of the timber for the sheathing is selected.

The lining must be delivered in advance so that the wood can adapt to operating conditions. Usually they are kept for several days, even if the wood is seasoned and has its own normalized moisture content.

Necessarily! If the lining is packed, then it must be unpacked.

During this time, the timber for the sheathing must be treated with an antiseptic.

The next stage is marking for the sheathing. The lining is usually mounted vertically, and the house block and imitation timber are installed horizontally. The sheathing is made perpendicular to the panels.

Combined wall decoration with clapboard in a wooden house

Note! Sometimes the lining is laid diagonally. In this case, the sheathing can also be made vertical, but with a smaller step.

The spacing of the sheathing timber depends on the thickness of the panels - the thicker it is, the wider the pitch. The recommended layout range is 50-80 cm. And the specific value is chosen so that from corner to corner the sheathing bars stand at approximately the same distance.

Video description

Laconic and accessible about the three main mistakes preparatory stage explained in the following video:

Installation of lining

Decorating the house with clapboards in each room begins from the corner, which is “in plain sight.” At this point, both walls should converge equal, and preferably intact, panels. But if the cladding ends in a very narrow strip at the other corner, it will look unattractive. Therefore, before starting installation, it is necessary to calculate the number of whole panels and the width of the “remainder”. If it turns out to be narrow, then installation should begin with a trimmed panel.

Along the perimeter of the plane to be sheathed, small gaps should be left to the adjacent surfaces

The first panel is positioned with a groove from the corner outward. If the panel is intact, then place the tenon in the corner. Fastening to the sheathing from the tenon side is carried out with thin nails, which are driven in at such a distance from the corner that their heads can be covered with a decorative corner.

From the groove side, the lining is secured to the sheathing with clamps.

The next panel is inserted into the groove first. If you are tiling a bathroom or toilet, do not push it all the way, leaving 1-2 mm to compensate for changes in size due to fluctuations in humidity.

Video description

The entire sequence of work is clearly shown in the video:

Important! It is also prohibited to connect lining panels end to end for the interior decoration of a seasonal home.

Features of interior finishing with block house and imitation timber

Only thin and narrow panels of this type of lining can be mounted on clamps; other standard sizes are mounted on nails or self-tapping screws. But if the wooden house is for seasonal use, and in winter there are “visits” in it, then in any case it is better to choose traditional mechanical fasteners.

There are two options for fastening with self-tapping screws:

open method– for “thick” panels;

through the base of the tenon, or hidden way(for panels of medium thickness).

Fastening through the base of the tenon is more difficult, but this method is the most reliable for thick panels

To decorate the corners of a block house, one of four techniques is used:

washed down the panels at an angle of 45°;

through the docking bar with a side equal to the thickness of the panel in the wave;

by using wooden corner or two boards connected at an angle;

panel adjustment on one side of the wall under the profile of the other wall, but for this the layout relative to each other is shifted by half the width of the panel.

It is the latter joining option that allows you to obtain the most reliable simulation of the room inside wooden log house from rounded logs. Although the execution of a figured neckline will require some skill in marking and fitting. And it will take longer.

This method of decorating corners requires precise marking and mastery of the tool.

Conclusion is a last resort...

There are also options for finishing a wooden house: with slatted panels made of fiberboard and PVC. But they are used extremely rarely - only when there is an urgent need to make repairs at the lowest possible cost. Fiberboard is less resistant to high humidity, and the laminated surface is easily damaged. Plastic lining in a wooden house will naturally look only in the bathroom or toilet.

Covering walls with clapboard means not only prestige and visible comfort. Wood lining has all the properties of wood: thermal insulation and breathing. The latter is determined primarily by the exchange vapor capacity - when there is an excess of moisture vapor in the air, the lining of the lining absorbs them; when there is a shortage, he gives. In addition, wood emits a faint aroma, bactericidal substances and neutralizes unpleasant odors. All this together creates a favorable, healthy microclimate in a clapboard-lined house.

Note: This publication discusses wooden lining. Plastic and metal are more resistant to external influences, but, firstly, they do not reduce or add anything to the quality of the living environment, secondly, they are noticeably more expensive and thirdly, the technology of covering them differs significantly from that for wooden lining. Therefore, clapboard from not wood materials houses are sheathed mainly on the outside.

Work procedure

Wooden lining can be finished living rooms almost any design style, either completely or partially, see fig. In the latter case, the lining may be effective means room zoning, top left in Fig.

The walls are finished with clapboards in the following order:

Preparing the building: if the walls are porous or cold (they conduct heat well) - insulation and waterproofing from the outside. Possibly also external decorative cladding. Neglecting this point will bring all efforts to create beauty inside to nothing;
Choice of material – wood species, profile and width of the lining boards;
Choice of cladding scheme: horizontal, vertical, diagonal, shaped;
Preparation of the internal base surface - leveling, vapor/water insulation;
Installation of sheathing under the cladding;
Wall covering with clapboard, using standard or simplified technology. In terms of strength and decorative qualities of the cladding, they are equivalent, the differences are different, see below;
Application protective coating on the casing;
Installation of sockets, lamps and other devices built into the wall;
Applying skirting boards to expansion gaps, corners of window slopes and door quarters.

Material

Decorative lining is a type of molding - long-length lumber - and is a profiled board with a standard tongue and groove connection. A tongue and groove joint is a type of longitudinal tongue-and-groove connection with an open groove. Tongue piles come with locks (which do not necessarily require additional fastening of the boards to the base) and without locks. Lining for walls and ceilings is produced exclusively with lockless tongue and groove, because Locking tongues are reliable only in flooring. Laminate flooring is produced with interlocking tongues, which is much more expensive than lining. It is impossible to lay it on the walls and especially on the ceiling without additional fastenings. There are standard fasteners for laminate, similar to those for lining, but working with laminate is more difficult and it does not improve the microclimate of the room. The surfaces of walls and ceilings are subject to wear incomparably less than the floor, so there is no point in spending money on covering anything other than the floor with laminate.

Wood

Wall lining is made from various breeds wood, both ordinary local and imported expensive ones. For budgets up to medium level, lining made of pine, spruce, oak, ash, larch and birch is available, see fig. Cedar, maple, beech, walnut and exotic woods are expensive. The dressing room and rest room of the bathhouse are lined with pine clapboard, the washing area with oak, aspen or alder; perhaps larch. Steam room - linden, aspen, alder; rarely - oak.

Note: Wood paneling and wood for lathing under it must be acclimatized before use - kept in the room that will be finished for at least 24 hours, stacked with ventilation ducts.

Pine lining is either the cheapest or very expensive. The cheap one is knotty, and the expensive one is made from the trunks of mast pine trees without knots. Knotty pine lining nevertheless serves as an excellent decorative material. The breathing of pine is smooth and deep. Bactericidal properties and resistance to fungi and pests are excellent. To decorate residential premises, you need to take clapboard made of dry chip pine, cut down in winter. Pitch pine, felled during the period of sap flow, on outdoors holds up no worse than bog oak, but is too resinous and expensive. It is easy to distinguish resin from dry wood chips on sale: either streaks of resin are visible on the resin, or it stains your finger with it if you run it with pressure along the fibers. Interior decoration of a house with pine clapboard is the optimal option in terms of beauty, benefit and cost.

Spruce is similar in many ways to pine, but it is not necessary to cover the nursery and kitchen with it: spruce is not divided into dried wood chips and tar. The resin content in spruce wood is approximately the same all year round. Spruce paneling is light, but it darkens faster than pine under the influence of ultraviolet radiation (UV), so it is better to decorate rooms with windows to the north and northwest with spruce paneling. A special feature of spruce wood is its excellent resonant properties. A conversation in a spruce-trimmed office turns out to be solid, thorough, and the music or sound of a movie in a “spruce” living room is clear, rich, and lively.

Note: on sale under the guise of spruce there is often a lining of almost the same color tone, as pine. It is made of fir. There is more resin in it than in spruce, and the sound resonance is weak. Fir lining is well suited for the hallway, balcony, glassed-in veranda and other rooms where people enter in street clothes and shoes - fir lining retains bactericidal properties for a very long time.

Oak is famous for its strength and durability. In a relationship decorative lining The important thing about it is that the tone of oak wood differs within the same board. This gives additional features for design. Ash is also uneven in tone, but is lighter than oak and breathes easier. The oak-lined living room with south-facing windows can be stuffy in summer; It is generally not recommended to decorate the bedroom and children's room with oak. The oak muffles the sounds; If your music center makes your neighbors “happy,” then oak cladding can reconcile them with unexpected joy. Oak resists rot and mold very well, but wood-boring beetles readily gnaw at it. The house beetle most often infests in oak houses.

Larch is very resistant, breathes like pine. Not afraid of fungi and insects; ants and cockroaches avoid houses lined with larch, even mosquitoes are reluctant to fly there. Larch wood has a wide range of tones from tree to tree; the texture of its layers is more refined and expressive than pine. Larch lining, selected by shades, is expensive, but re-grading it is much cheaper and you can achieve interesting effects in the cladding. There is quite a lot of resin in larch, but it quickly evaporates and (mostly) becomes bituminized: larch lining, aged for a year, in this respect is equivalent to pine made from dry chips. It is the bituminization of the main part of the resin that explains the high resistance of larch wood.

Birch gives an exceptionally light, cheerful, positive interior and is aesthetically compatible with most modern styles design. Under the influence of UV, birch darkens slowly and weakly. Unfortunately, birch wood is very easily affected by fungi. Only 100% reliable way to guarantee birch sheathing from the appearance of colored veins and stains - underfloor heating in combination with good external insulation.

Linden, alder, and aspen are of little use for cladding residential premises. due to low mechanical strength; lining made from these types of wood is used only for. Lining the steam room in a bathhouse with linden makes the bathhouse light and suitable for women, children and weak people. Steam room with alder or aspen paneling - regular, medium. The oak bath is vigorous. It is good to maintain heroic health and strength, but it will not benefit an ordinary person.

Note: cover the steam room and washing bath knotty lining made of any wood is unacceptable, because in the bathhouse atmosphere the twigs soon begin to fall out. In the steam room, in addition, knots turn out to be sources of fire and burn hazards; heat is concentrated in them.

Profile and width

Cheaper and easier to install with your own hands (see below) is the Soft Line profile lining (on the right in the figure); if the design requires minimal visible gaps between the boards, use eurolining.

The Shtil profile lining differs from it not only in its smaller thickness, but also in its more rounded molding - shaped chamfers of the outer ribs. Shtil lining, as a rule, is expensive, made of wood without knots. Lining under timber is used, in addition to purely decorative purposes, for cladding utility rooms. bath rooms, because due to its greater thickness, it conducts heat less well and is less susceptible to knots falling out. Larch lining for timber that is at least a year old from the time of sawing can also be used to cover a washing room, but not a steam room.

Note: Eurolining is also available with a ridge height of 16 mm. This is the so-called. windproof, for external cladding. Whether or not to sheathe the walls inside is up to you.

Lining of any profile is produced in boards of different widths. If you intend to decorate the room(s) with clapboards with your own hands in an inexpensive, simplified way, as described below, then the width of the board becomes important: the last one in the installation order should be cut to the width as small as possible, and the trim should be no narrower than the baseboard + deformation gap. Let's explain with an example. Let's say the wall length is 4 mm (400 cm). We are trying to take a board 150 mm (15 cm) wide along the top surface for vertical cladding (see below). 400/15 = 26.67 boards will be used for cladding. So acceptable, 2/3 of the last remains in width; 4/5 or 5/6 would be better. With a 13 cm board you get 400/13 = 30.77 more expensive boards; a 180 mm board will not work, because... the width of the last one will remain only 0.22. A 200 mm board won’t work either: it seems like a whole number of them can be laid, but there is no margin left for trimming, see below.

American

American lining came into construction from wooden shipbuilding: there, cladding with overlapping boards is the only way to get seams suitable for waterproof caulk. American lining can be flat (item 1 in the figure) and stepped (item 2 and item 3 - profile with dimensions), to imitate herringbone cladding along its length.

It is believed that American women can only be sewn with horizontal belts. So, installing an American Christmas tree (like a blockhouse) with vertical panels is quite possible:

Each panel will go 2, 4 (as on item 4), 6, etc. even number boards
The ridge is cut off at the extreme boards of the panel.
Under the joints of low edges (with cut ridges) bars are placed perpendicular to the main beams of the sheathing, see below.
High edges are connected with dowels (lamellas) - strips of wood or plywood. There is no need to cut them exactly according to the profile of the grooves; it is only necessary that the dowels fit tightly and the boards do not play relative to each other.

Sheathing made from vertical American panels looks no worse, if not better, than herringbone sheathing (see below), but it is technologically simpler.

Sheathing schemes

The easiest way to install lining boards on walls is to either mount them upright or lay them on horizontal belts. Horizontal cladding is generally more beautiful, but it is necessary to correctly cladding walls horizontally, always laying the boards with the ridges up. Otherwise, micro-reservoirs will form in the grooves (item 1 in the figure on the right), from which rot and infection will occur. If the sides of the groove of the bottom board (the first in the installation order) are trimmed correctly, they are cut off, pos. 2 in Fig., so that the groove does not become a pocket - a trap of capillary moisture. As for the vertical cladding, whether and where to cut the tongue/groove depends only on the installation method. Vertical cladding is used in damp rooms or with a high probability of condensation (bathhouse, hallway); here and correct installation horizontal cladding will not prevent it from getting stuck.

Diagonal clapboard cladding is rarely used, because is complex and results in a large waste of material, but aesthetically has almost no benefit. There are many shaped clapboard coverings; you can notice that, for example, sheathing with a flat herringbone (on the left in the next figure) is labor-intensive, but not as complicated as it seems: the fragments are cut according to a template in a miter box and mounted on a vertical sheathing. They look great, but are more complicated than the lining diamond panels on the right in Fig. The sheathing for them is a cross with a frame, in the quadrants of which bars for the diagonal sheathing are attached, see below.

Lathing

You can’t just nail the paneling to the wall, even if the wooden wall is completely flat: a system of capillary channels will appear between the paneling and the wall, the room will become damp, and the paneling and, possibly, the wall will rot. Cladding with clapboard must be ventilated, for which ventilation channels are cut out in the undersides of the boards. That is, a wooden sheathing is definitely required for clapboard cladding.

Why made of wood? Because the sheathing material, which has similar properties to the sheathing, also serves as a mechanical damper, especially if the base wall is made of mineral materials. For the same purpose, deformation gaps of 6-10 mm must be left between the sheathing and the wall, see below. If you put wooden paneling on, say, steel profiles for drywall, it will quickly swell or cracks will appear. And if after a year or two you remove the plinths from the sheathing along the wooden sheathing, it turns out that its edges have moved, but visible surface it remained as smooth as it was.

Schemes of sheathing for vertical, horizontal and diagonal cladding are given in Fig. General principle– the sheathing bars are perpendicular to the boards. Don't neglect the edge beams (marked in red!): there should be no hanging ends of the boards; the sheathing for diagonal cladding must have a continuous frame. The thickness of the sheathing beams is 20-40 mm; width 30-60 mm. The installation step of the beams is 4-5 board widths along the top surface.

Note 6: fastening the beams to the wall - 6 mm self-tapping screws in plastic dowels. In concrete from 70 mm, in brick from 90 mm, in foam/gas blocks from 120 mm. For a wooden wall - wood screws from 4x60. The beam fastening pitch is 400-600 mm. Attachment points 50-70 mm from the ends are required.

Wall

It is necessary to fasten the lining to the wall, taking into account the fact that the gap created by the sheathing is a ventilation one, not a steam trap. Second, so that the cladding in an ideal room does not suffer from drying out of the wood, the unevenness of the virtual (formed by the outer layers of the sheathing beams) surface for the cladding should be no more than 2 mm/m and the total no more than 6 mm along the entire wall of any length.

Placing the sheathing directly on a porous moisture-absorbing wall (item 1 in the figure) is a gross mistake. A rather expensive and labor-intensive, but very reliable option for wall preparation is coating with cement vapor-proof plaster, pos. 2; at the same time the wall is leveled. The sheathing beams can be secured to a fairly flat concrete wall in a dry room using EC brackets for plasterboard profiles, pos. 3.

Initially, EC staples are thin perforated plates. In this case, the sheathing bars are selected in advance for evenness. The middle beam is placed first, the EC brackets, already attached to the wall, the ends of the beam are bent and fastened along its edges, then the intermediate brackets are bent and the entire beam is fastened without deforming it. The remaining bars are placed exactly in a plane, oriented along the middle.

However, the best way to prepare a wall for clapboard cladding is a vapor barrier; in the bathhouse, kitchen, hallway it is impossible to do otherwise. The wall is leveled and foil insulation is applied to it with the foil facing out; insulation sheets are placed on mounting tape with an overlap of 15 cm. Then plywood pads with a thickness of 8 mm or more are attached under the beams to the wall through the insulation, i.e. greater than the thickness of the insulation, and next to them are the sheathing beams, pos. 4. Thus, a continuous ventilated space is formed between the insulation and the sheathing, shown by green arrows in pos. 5.

Sheathing

The main principle of clapboard cladding is to go from small complex places (see figure on the right) to large solid planes. Details about all the subtleties internal lining wooden lining according to all the rules, see next. video, and we’ll see where we can simplify, make it cheaper and make it easier, working with our own hands for ourselves.

Video: installation of wooden lining

Professionally, the lining is attached to the sheathing with mounting clips: starting clips (pos. 1a in the figure) and running clips, or gluers (kleimers, clamps, clasps), pos. 1 b, 2 and 3.

Fastening with gluers ensures high performance labor: a pro, using a pneumatic stapler, spends only a few seconds on the attachment point, see video:

Video: gluers for fastening lining

Second, the gluers do not damage the boards. For example, in Southern European countries wood paneling rooms are a symbol of wealth and prestige, but due to strong UV, the clapboard paneling there darkens with spots after 2-4 years. Then the sheathing is changed, the removed boards are sorted by tone and sold as used, but no one will buy a board with holes as working material. Installation of lining on gluers is technologically accessible to anyone, see another video, but it turns out to be cumbersome, because... In addition to the increased number of more expensive fasteners, special tools are also required.

Video: how to attach lining with gluers

In Central Russia, lining is under 2 layers acrylic varnish(see below) will retain its appearance for 10 years or more. With your own hands in your home, you can attach the lining to the sheathing with small screws or nails, pos. 4 and 5:

In this case, it is more convenient to work with the soft line (pos. 5), because the number of obliquely driven hardware is reduced. The fastener heads are recessed in plain sight by twisting the excess with a screwdriver or, if these are nails, with a hammer - a steel rod with a head for impact with a hammer strike at one end and the other end sharpened to a truncated cone. The simplest hammer is made from a 100-150 mm nail.

The recessed fastener heads are rubbed with wood putty. Because the sheathing of walls and ceilings is not subject to heavy loads and wear; you can prepare putty exactly to match the wood yourself by mixing 2-4 volume parts of sawdust of the same wood to 1 part PVA.

Laying

Usually, the lining is laid in the same way as laminate: the ridge is cut off from the first board and placed in that place against the wall. However, since they do not walk on the walls and ceiling and do not place furniture on them, cladding according to the “everything in reverse” principle, pos. 6. Only the last board is cut to width, and the first is placed with the groove against the wall as is.

Protection

The panel (wall) covered with clapboard is sanded until smooth with sandpaper No. 140-160, then primed with a primer for acrylic varnish. Purpose of primer in in this case First of all, lift the small fibers left by the coarse sandpaper. After the primer has dried, the surface is sanded with sandpaper No. 240-280. After each sanding, blow off the surface with a vacuum cleaner (do not rub with a rag!). Two sandings with an intermediate primer will give a completely smooth surface. Its protection from mechanical damage and UV will be provided by 2 layers of acrylic varnish, colorless or tinted. The 2nd layer is applied after the first one has completely dried. In addition, varnishing will significantly reduce the fire hazard of the skin, but it will not prevent it from breathing: the breath will come from the underside through the deformation gaps.

There are special requirements for façade materials for finishing a residential building. They should not only be beautiful, but also practical. Lining is widely used in suburban construction and meets the necessary building standards. Choosing the option to cover the outside of the house with clapboard allows you to avoid large material investments and maintain the attractive appearance of the walls for many years.

Benefits of coverage

Lining is actively used in suburban construction due to its multiple positive characteristics:

has a long service life and does not change its original qualities;
resistant to temperature changes and used in any climate zones;
simultaneously provides additional thermal insulation of the premises;
has an attractive appearance and makes it possible to use all kinds of design options;
finishing does not require specialized and expensive tools;
easy to install.

Exterior decoration of a house using lining helps transform the structure and hide technological shortcomings.

Types of panels by raw material

Currently, two types of lining are produced:

plastic;
wooden.

Let's look at each of them in detail.

Plastic lining

Plastic lining is produced from polyvinyl chloride mass by extrusion. It is an excellent material for exterior finishing of load-bearing walls, as it has a number of advantages:

maintains excellent appearance throughout the entire period of operation;
resistant to rotting, fading and temperature changes;
does not support combustion;
has excellent sound insulation properties;
has high moisture resistance.

Standard dimensions of the material make finishing work easier. The variety of colors contributes to the implementation of various design ideas.

Wooden lining

When making wooden lining, tongue-and-groove joints are sawn through industrially dried material. The material is polished. After careful sorting, the finished board goes on sale.

Despite the many modern materials, wooden lining is still in demand in suburban construction. It has a number of advantages:

high soundproofing and thermal insulation qualities;
beautiful appearance;
safe for people and the environment.

Natural lining promotes air circulation and helps create a natural microclimate indoors. With timely surface treatment protective equipment its use is unlimited.

Wooden materials are divided into two subtypes:

standard;
eurolining.

They differ from each other in technical characteristics.

Choosing tools and material

For exterior work, lining made from coniferous wood is used. When put on sale, it is assigned a grade. For exterior finishing, materials with a moisture content of no more than 12% are used. Using lining with more high humidity, during the process of natural shrinkage, numerous microcracks appear on its surface, and the appearance of the board often changes and becomes distorted.

Particular attention must be paid to the surface of the board. It should be smooth, with a minimum number of knots. The presence of fungal infections, wormholes and cracks is also unacceptable.

For finishing work you will need:

saw;
electric drill;
screwdriver;
level.

Installation of lining when finishing load-bearing walls requires a minimal set of tools, so finishing work can be easily done with your own hands.

Installation of lining on the facade with your own hands

Decorative finishing is often combined with insulation. In this case, clapboard cladding on the outside of the house consists of the following steps:

vapor barrier device;
frame formation;
thermal insulation of walls;
installation of a waterproofing layer;
decorative wall decoration.

Completing all of the above steps will help you get not only a visually attractive facade, but also a warm home.

Frame installation

To make a frame for lining, it is most often used wooden blocks small thickness. Depending on the material of the walls, they are secured using self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. Installation of the sheathing is carried out strictly according to the level: all external bars are laid in the same plane.

If the wall is uneven, has large differences and protrusions - external elements The frame is leveled using backings made of plywood, timber or any other material.

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of corner elements, then the internal bars are installed. The distance between the sheathing elements depends on the size of the thermal insulation material.

Let's take care of the vapor barrier

Polyethylene or polypropylene films, as well as membranes, are used as vapor barrier materials. The vapor barrier material is stretched moving up the wall and secured well with a stapler or thin slats. The vapor barrier material must be laid in a continuous layer without cracks or breaks.

Installation of thermal insulation

The insulation is laid in dense rows between the bars. To prevent the formation of seams and reliably protect the house from drafts, multi-layer insulation is used. In this case, the thermal insulation material is laid in several layers in a checkerboard pattern.

Installation of waterproofing

Waterproofing materials allow escaping steam to pass through, protect the insulation from waterlogging and preserve its thermal insulation qualities. As a waterproofing agent you can use:

diffusion membranes;
polyethylene films;
polyvinyl chloride films.

They are laid overlapping on top of the insulation and fixed to wooden frame stapler.

Installation of the frame under the finishing cladding

An additional frame is mounted on top of the waterproofing layer, onto which the lining is attached. The frame completely duplicates the lower base and is assembled from wooden blocks of the same dimensions.

Finishing the outer layer using lining

For the outer cladding of a house, horizontal or vertical methods of laying lining are used. The choice of one option or another is not fundamental and depends only on personal preferences. The vertical method visually increases the size and is perfect for finishing small houses. When using narrow lining, to improve perception, it is preferable to lay it horizontally.

Installation of the lining begins from any corner of the house. It is installed level and attached to the sheathing slats along its entire height. Clips or screws are used as fasteners.

When using self-tapping screws as fasteners, small holes are drilled into the board using a thin drill and only after that the self-tapping screw is tightened. This operation will avoid cracking of the material.

When fastening the lining using clamps, they are installed in the groove and secured to the sheathing using small nails. Work is carried out carefully, trying not to damage the surface of the board. After installing each element, the horizons are checked with a level. Next, the next element is installed in the groove of the first board and secured to the sheathing. This is how the lining is installed around the entire perimeter of the house.

When installing, small gaps of 1-2 mm are left between the boards. With this fastening, the material expands freely under the influence of rain and moisture and will retain its original appearance for a long time.

When laying the lining horizontally, work begins at the bottom and moves upward in even rows. The lining is laid in the same way as with the vertical method. The groove of the board is positioned upward.

To avoid a large number of joints when finishing a house large sizes the lining can be laid in a herringbone pattern. With this option, the joints are evenly distributed along the wall and do not catch the eye.

After finishing is completed, unsightly corners of the house are decorated plastic corners. Wooden lining is treated with protective agents . This treatment will help:

protect the lining from cracks, moisture and the spread of insects;
will extend the service life of the surface;
will transform the appearance of a residential building.

Using high-quality wooden or artificial lining for the facade of the house makes it easier to complete installation work with your own hands and allows you to extend the service life of load-bearing walls. The resulting result will please the eye for many years.

There are many types of finishing work and ways to improve the appearance and condition of your home. One solution is to cover the house with clapboard!

The stages of performing this work, which includes the selection of material and step by step execution actions, you will find by reading this article.

Type of lining

What is a lining? It is a long plank of wood, ready for use after a lot of woodworking. The thickness of such a board is usually no more than 20-22 cm. This is a standard lining, but it exists this type material, but consisting not of wood, but of plastic (plastic lining).

Each of the proposed materials is undoubtedly practical and each is endowed with its own qualities and advantages.

Let's talk about plastic exterior lining!

Artificial material, which this lining consists of, does not rot, which means this material is very durable!
Smooth surface and the peculiarity of the composition of this product is not exposed to the aquatic environment, which means it has water-repellent properties!
And since we have already talked above about water-repellent properties, it’s time to say that this material is the best in caring for it, which means it is very easy to wash (clean).
The service life will also please you very much: 25-30 years - this is very decent!

Let's talk about the ordinary, well-known classic wooden lining!

Good appearance, you can easily sheathe your house or interior spaces!
If your home is located in close proximity to a highway, railway or noisy enterprise (institution), then, of course, best material in sound insulation - this is this lining!
The low thermal conductivity properties of the material in question will help keep your home warm in winter and cool in summer.

If you decide to choose the second type of lining, then you should know that it comes in several types! These types differ only in the place of production (Russia, Europe). Because of this, the price of this product also varies! The one made in Russia is much cheaper and has a simple design, while the European one is complex in design. geometric design and is made from more expensive materials, which is why it is more expensive.

When choosing lining you must be extremely careful

Pay attention to humidity, if it is less than 8-15%, this will lead to drying out of the material and significantly reduce its service life.
It’s also worth looking at the number of different knots and notches; choose those boards that have much less of this flaw!
If you see small black or blue dots, then you should discard such material, because it has become fungal!

When choosing, consider what kind of wood it is made of this material; undoubtedly, coniferous material will be the best!

Let's proceed to the stages of cladding work

Vapor barrier
Attaching the frame for vapor barrier
Installing a vapor barrier in this frame
Securing the vapor barrier
Installation of the second frame
Exterior decoration clapboard

First stage

Vapor barriers can be several materials (roofing felt, polyethylene film, aluminium foil).

The main task of this stage of work is to create ventilation of the facade of the house using film. To do it correctly, you need to attach narrow (2.5 cm) slats to the house at a short distance from each other (usually attached at a distance of about a meter). The vapor barrier layer itself is attached using a stapler. And to ensure ventilation itself, it is necessary to make small cuts (they are made below between the rivers)

Second phase

We use small boards to make a frame for thermal insulation. The boards are attached to the wall vertically on their sides, the distance between which we attach the boards should be slightly less than the insulation that you purchased.

Third stage

When installing thermal insulation, you need to take into account that the layers of wool should not have any gaps between each other; lay the sheets in two layers, and cover the joints of the first layer with the second. The frame was made a little smaller because the thermal insulation itself will be located in the frame without any special fasteners (on its own).

Third stage

We install waterproofing on top of the thermal insulation, in the form of a special film. It retains moisture! This film, like thermal insulation, must be laid in two layers, the joints must also be secured with tape, and the first layer must be secured with a stapler. Please note that the film must be laid with the rough side facing the lining.

Fourth stage

The next frame is attached to the boards of the lower frame, on top of all the insulating coatings. Leave between the new slats and the waterproofing layer small space, to remove condensate.

Nail a metal mesh to the bottom of the remaining space to protect against various pests.

Fifth stage

Now let's cover it with clapboard! It's worth starting from the bottom. The first board should be positioned with the tenon facing down. Be sure to check that it is horizontal with a level.

Secure with nails.

The next board should be firmly installed into the groove of the previous one using a blow. Let's secure it. We continue to work the same way!

When all the lining is installed, you must nail the boards vertically at the corners of the house, overlapping one another. We also make trim for doors and windows and only after finishing all the work, start painting! You can use a special liquid (impregnation), it will protect the facing layer from external influences. But before painting, sand your home.

As you can see, this type of work is not at all difficult and you don’t have to put in a lot of effort!