Hi all. In today's project we with your own hands Let's try to make a hammer similar to the hammer from the neurologist's office. You can, of course, buy a ready-made one, but why buy an expensive rubber hammer if you can make this tool yourself from hot glue sticks?!
It's very simple, cheap and doesn't take much time.
So let's get started!
Step 1: What is needed for the project
Necessary materials:
- 4 hot glue sticks (30 cm long and 11 mm in diameter)
- Some water
— Steel rod with threaded end
— Glass pill bottle (the larger the diameter, the larger the hammer...)
- Soap
– 2 plastic bags
Tools (+devices):
— Hot glue gun
— Wooden vice
— Drill with a diameter of 10 mm
— Utility knife
— Glass cup
- Hammer
Electric/Power Tools:
- Microwave
- Fridge
— Drill
Reason for production: I need a rubber mallet!
Precautionary measures: ventilated area, leather gloves, safety glasses
Price: $2.50
Qualification: basic
The approximate time: 3 hours (~60% of which is waiting time).
Step 2: Heating a glass of water
The work begins by heating a glass of water. This will prevent the glass from cracking due to temperature changes and will also help the hot glue cool more slowly (next step).
I put a glass of water in the microwave for over a minute. A kettle is also suitable for this operation.
Step 3: Pouring Hot Glue into the Glass Bottle
Start pouring hot glue in a bottle. Make sure that no water gets inside the bottle through the neck.
Step 4: Let the hot melt glue cool
Allow the hot melt glue to cool for one hour. After 60 minutes it will be slightly warm.
I then placed the bottle in the refrigerator and (intentionally) forgot about it. This good idea, since hot melt glue will harden better in the cold.
Step 5: Break the glass bottle by throwing it on the floor!
First, wrap the bottle in two plastic bags. Then throw it hard onto the floor. I didn't succeed the first time. I had to throw the bottle 5 times to get the glass to crack!
Don't forget to wear safety glasses, safety is always important!
Step 6: CAREFULLY Remove the Glass
The hot glue stuck to the glass so much that I had to use a hammer. Remove any remaining glass by first wearing leather gloves.
Step 7: Hot glue the blank
Remaining dirt and pieces of glass should be removed. To do this, rinse the resulting workpiece with water, soap it, and then rinse again. Next, wipe dry with a towel.
Step 8: Cutting off excess hot melt glue from the workpiece
Excess hot melt glue forms in the neck of the bottle. Cut them off using a utility knife.
Step 9: Drilling the hole for the handle and securing it
I clamped the resulting hot glue blank in my wooden vice. Next, I drilled a hole in the center of the piece, about ¾ inch (1.9 cm) deep. The hammer handle should be inserted into this hole.
Now screw in the handle. It turned out great!
V.A.VOLKOV. Dedicated to T.V. Cherkasova
Interceptions, Knocks. Changes. Breaks Interruptions Busts Overflows Thunders Rumble. Calls Scream. Murmur. Stomp. Whisper. Laughter...
A percussion tool is a tool that is used to strike during work, directly or through a stand-in tool. Hand percussion instruments include hammers, sledgehammers, and mallets.
A hammer is the most common tool. It is found in virtually every apartment and house. But precisely because of their necessity and versatility, there are many designs of hammers for a specific purpose: metalworking, carpentry, carpentry, etc.
Locksmith's hammers
They (Fig. 1) are the most mass production. They are convenient for delivering blows for a variety of jobs: hammering, bending, flattening, etc.
Rice. 1. Bench hammers: a - with a round head; b - with a square striker
Bench hammers (Table 1) are produced with round (Fig. 1a) and square strikers (Fig. 16).
Table 1
Note. Hammer heads with a square striker are also manufactured with a mass of 50 and 100 g, respectively, with L 200 and 250 mm at H equal to 75 and 82 mm under No. 1 and 2.
Hammer No. 1 with a round striker is recommended for “delicate” work such as marking, wallpaper, etc., and hammers No. 2, 3, 4 - for metalwork, “nailing”, etc. home loads. Hammers No. 5 and 6 with the same striker are used for “heavy” tasks, for example, driving staples into logs.
A number 1 square hammer is suitable for nailing when glazing. Only the nail should be placed parallel to the glass, otherwise it will crack.
Steel construction hammers
These hammers, depending on their purpose, are manufactured in many types, which are listed in table. 2 and in Fig. 2.
Carpenter's hammers are used for woodworking using chisels, chisels and other tools. The main part of the body (Fig. 2a) is the firing pin, the auxiliary part is a wedge-shaped (with a one-sided concave bevel in the past) toe. The last ones to hammer in are nails in grooves, narrow places, etc.
Rice. 2. Steel construction hammers: a - carpentry type MST; 6 - carpentry type MPL-1; c - carpenter type MPL-2; g - pickaxe type MKI-1; d - pickaxe type MKI-2; e - plaster type MShT-1; g - plaster type MShT-2; h - parquet type MPA; and - parquet type MPA VNIISMI Minstroydormash; k - roofing type MKR-1 and MKR-2; l - roofing type MKR-3; m - slate type MSHI 1; n - slate type MSHI-2; o - slate Yushchenko; n - tiled MPLI-1 type; r - tiled type MPPI-2; c - entrench type MSHA-1; t * - trench type MSHA-2; f - cam type MIU-1; x - cam type MKU-2; c - for notching concrete and brick surfaces; h - automated, driven by an internal combustion engine; 1 - body; 2 - wooden handle; 3 - to the stumps; 4 - tubular rod; ! S - rubber handle; 6 - fitting; 7 - ring | see fig. 2-2, 2-3, 2-4, 2-5)
The MP L-2 carpenter's hammer (Fig. 2c) is much more practical than the MPL-1 carpenter's hammer (Fig. 26). The body of the MPL-2 hammer is hot pressed onto a tubular rod. There is no need to worry about locking the body on the rod. Attention to the position of the wedge in the wooden handle of the MPL-1 hammer is necessary from a safety point of view. Bumpiness of the body on the handle
leads to it jumping off during the swing to strike. A body "floating" in the air causes terrible injuries. The rubber handle is glued tightly onto the shaft of the MPL-2 hammer. It slows down the sliding of the palm and softens the recoil upon impact.
Hammers of the MPL-1 type were produced in weights of 0.35 and 0.5 kg, now - up to 0.8 kg.
Pick hammers (Fig. 2d, e) were produced with a weight of 0.4; 0.5; 0.6 kg with toe length up to 200 mm. If bricks are used as the material for these hammers, then the brick is crushed with a square striker, for example, when filling voids. Using a flat toe, they chop bricks into incomplete pieces when bandaging seams, laying jambs, belts, etc. The weight of modern hammers MKY-1 is up to 0.7 kg, MKI-2 is up to 1 kg.
Parquet hammers (Fig. 2h, i) are made different designs and masses.
Thus, the hammer (Fig. 2i) of the Georgievsk Stroyinstrument plant has a mass of 0.47 kg. Thanks to the solid total area, the narrow strip of the protruding toe of the body does not crush the wood along the edges of the parquet flooring. But with such a toe it is sometimes difficult to hit the head of a nail when laying parquet. The doboynik corrects the shortcomings of the hammer.
Roofing hammers (Fig. 2k, l), unlike most other types of hammers, are forged (Table 4). They maintain the integrity of the handle near the body. The sharp edges of the processed sheets would gradually split the handle.
Table 4 Roofing hammers according to GOST 11042-83
Note. The dimensions of the MKP-3 hammer are shown in Fig. 2l, its weight is up to 1.5 kg.
In the past, roofing hammers were made weighing 0.4; 0.5; 0.65 and 1.4 kg.
A modern automated hammer (Fig. 2h) is even different in appearance from a traditional one. They don't need to swing and hold the nail. It is enough to bring it to the selected point. The hammer will do the rest on command. The nail will be supplied from the store. The striker itself, with one blow, will drive the nail to the head.
The hammer mechanism is a cross between a pistol and... an engine internal combustion! The trigger is pressed, and at the same moment a portion of fuel is injected from a special pressure cylinder into the working chamber. An electric spark ignites it. A microexplosion occurs in the chamber. Its strength is transferred to the striker, which moves reciprocatingly.
The charge in the batteries and the fuel in the cylinder are enough for several hours of intensive work. Replacing the cylinder and battery is a matter of a few minutes. Such “toys” are produced in Finland.
A similar “work” can be made independently from a household tool with an electric drive that has a reciprocating motion. Well, let's say, from a hammer drill. The pneumatic drive is also applicable for the construction of “self-driving” hammers. But to use them, undoubtedly, you need a monotonous field of activity.
Sledgehammers
One hand usually operates the hammer. Although entrenching hammers (Fig. 2c, t) weighing up to 2... 2.5 kg cannot be moved without the application of the other hand when a series of blows is needed. The cam hammers are also approximately the same weight (Fig. 2f, x).
Sledgehammers are used to deliver strong blows with two hands. Blacksmithing is the main purpose of a sledgehammer. But you can’t do without a sledgehammer in garden and estate plots. It is the main tool for driving fence stakes, constructing a greenhouse, etc.
Blunt-nosed (Fig. 3) and sharp-nosed (Fig. 36) - this is the division of sledgehammers (Tables 5, 6). The first ones are more common in everyday life.
Blunt sledgehammers
Table 5
Weight, kg |
Dimensions, mm |
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Sharp-nosed sledgehammers
Table 6
Weight, kg |
Dimensions, mm |
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The hole on any type of sledgehammer is located at its center of gravity. According to figures 3a and 36, it has an oval shape with a two-sided slope of 1:10. This is done for better wedging of the wooden handle. Therefore, with independent creativity, the displacement of the hole in the sledgehammer along the limit axis is permissible within ±1.5...2 mm, and along the transverse axis - up to ±0.4...0.6 mm.
The length of the sledgehammer handle reaches 750... 900 mm. The wooden handle is good for small one-time jobs. There are many tricks for securing a sledgehammer to the handle. But they don’t last long and the fasteners come back. Yes! A sledgehammer that jumps off the handle during a swing will kill or “spectacularly” injure the sledgehammer himself or someone standing next to him...
Follow safety precautions!
Secure the sledgehammers to the handle!
It is permissible to forget about the “friendship” of the sledgehammer and the handle when they are tightly connected. To achieve this, the handle is selected from a suitable steel pipe. A seamless water and gas pipe is preferable. The absence of a longitudinal seam on the outer surface of the pipe indicates that it is seamless.
Rice. 3. Sledgehammers: a - blunt-nosed; 6 - pointed-nosed.
The end of the metal handle is slightly flattened so that it fits into the oval hole of the sledgehammer. Then the “queen” - electric welding will complete the deed. I warn you right away that you can’t do without welding! The end of the pipe handle does not need to be welded. There, while the sledgehammer is “resting,” you can place the tool.
Homemade hammer bodies
It is not always necessary to use a hammer. It all depends on what kind of bullshit is needed. This is what the sledgehammer was called back in the last century. Naturally occurring cobblestone is sometimes sufficient (Fig. 4) to hammer something down. Brick rarely fits; it crumbles too quickly. This is a modern brick, but in the Middle Ages and earlier the brick was 2... 3 times smaller and stronger. Drive the nails calmly.
A piece of pipe, a piece of hexagon or square steel, a railway spike for securing rails to wooden sleepers, a large bolt, etc. - all this replaces the hammer in certain circumstances.
A piece of water and gas pipe with an outer diameter of, say, 21 mm, a length of 200... 300 mm, with pipe thread, onto which the valve body is screwed (Fig. 4), or the valve assembly with a shortened or removed stem, completely resembles a hammer.
Rice. 4. Quickly made homemade hammers: 1 - cobblestone (primitive design); 2 - valve; 3 - steel pipe; 4 - flywheel-crossbar
The flywheels (Fig. 4) of some water taps and valves are a brass crossbar with a square hole in the middle. This flywheel just begs to be turned into a miniature hammer. Sharpening one end of the flywheel with a file or sharpener will create the toe of the hammer body. Giving the striker a square shape will also expand the applicability of the production tool.
Semenikhin's hammer is made of a steel rod (Fig. 5) of square or hexagonal cross-section with dimensions between parallel edges from 16 to 24 mm. It is advisable to use the following grades of steel for the manufacture of the hammer body: U7, U8, 45, 50, 60, etc. An electric sharpener allows you to fairly accurately determine the grade of steel by sparks. “Ordinary” steel with a low carbon content, if the striker is used frequently, will lead to the appearance of “roses” on its edges.
The striker of the Semenikhin hammer, like the factory strikers, has a spherical convexity, which allows it best contact with an object being struck. Instantaneous load - at the axis point of the striker. This axis passes through the center of mass.
Rice. 5. Semenikhin’s hammer: a - distribution of impact load across the striker; b - body; c - base of the handle; g - handle assembly (option); d - diagram of the connection between the body and the handle (option)
In addition to the composition of the steel material, hardening also contributes to strengthening the toe and striker of the body. Brought to required sizes the body is heated in a muffle or some other suitable furnace to a temperature of 730... 830°C. The temperature can be determined by the color of the body, which is close to cherry.
The body is taken with pliers with long handles and the hands are smoothly lowered into the water, raising the head proudly. Hot splashes may occur. Goggles are the preferred eye protection. Mittens are put on hands.
The cooled and dried body is cleaned with abrasive sandpaper. But the body is also colored using tarnished colors. The cleaned body is placed back into the oven for heating. The colors on the body will appear in the following sequence: light and dark yellow, brown and purple-red, violet, cornflower blue, gray. The desired color is “grabbed” by removing the body and placing it on a metal base. Wiping with an oily rag forms a resistant film on the body, which will also protect against corrosion. The entire range of colors listed is achievable within the heating range of the housing from 220 to 330°C.
Making a hammer body yourself is a labor-intensive undertaking. A vice, an electric drill, files, a hacksaw, a caliper, a ruler - this is the minimum set of tools. A piece of metal for the body blank is marked according to the drawing or the drawings given here. Depending on the available equipment, they begin with filing surfaces or drilling holes. The final hole for the handle is made at the minimum of two in advance drilled holes, because it is oval.
A number of hammer designs (Fig. b) are “dedicated” to eliminating impact recoil. Various moving masses (liquid, shot, mercury, rod, etc.) inside the body or handle absorb recoil. Making the handle or part of it in the form of a flat spring also helps reduce recoil (Fig. b). Rechitsky told readers about similar hammers in his book “Profession - Inventor.” The production of such hammers is quite accessible to craftsmen.
Homemade handles
The handle plays no less a role in the productive operation of the hammer than the body. Although in isolated cases the body will fulfill its purpose without a handle. Its dimensions largely depend on the age, height and physique of the “manager” of the hammer. It is customary to say that one hammer is handy, the other is not. Why? Few will answer this question. Let's add an explanation.
Rice. 6. Homemade hammers that absorb recoil from impact: a - with a ball; 6 - mercury; c - a weight with a spring; g - rod; d - fraction; e - flat spring part of the handle
The thickness of the handle depends on the length of the fingers of the “user”. Anyone can choose the best thickness without difficulty (Fig. 76). The length of the handle is also selected by touch, which only partly depends on the weight of the hammer. The hand experiences a shock or sharp shock with each blow from a short or too long handle. Vibrations cause rapid fatigue and affect the strength and confidence of the fight. Therefore, first they plan out a deliberately long handle. In a trial battle, they find the most convenient capture site. The excess part of the handle is sawed off so that a free end 35 cm long remains behind the hand. In general, the heavier the body, the longer the handle is made.
Rice. 7. Homemade handles: a - defective; b - choice of thickness and length; c - modern style handles; g - old design; d - with indentations on the ax handle to prevent palms from slipping
Not everyone loves experiments. Well, there are recommendation tables. One, tab. 7, - about modern-style handles (Fig. 7c) of a cone shape. The second is table. 8 - about the handles of an old model (Fig. 7d). This handle, among other advantages, is safer. Its thickened end prevents the tool from slipping out of the fist.
Table 7 Handles for round hammers
Dimensions, mm |
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Notes: 1) some sizes are rounded; 2) the table has been shortened.
Homemade handles, sadly enough, are made from found “scavenger” material. And there is no breed autograph on it. How to be? I advise you to check the “nationality” of the wood with a nail. It will even penetrate dry coniferous wood without difficulty under the influence of something heavy. Relatively rare deciduous “aristocrats” (beech, hickory, etc.) will yield only to the prolonged onslaught of the “plebeian” nail. How can one not remember its merits?
The second sign of purebred, “blue blood” wood is the purpose, shape, and finishing of the found piece. They still try to produce furniture from noble breeds. Therefore, legs and crossbars, such as chairs and tables, are excellent materials for handles.
Broken hockey sticks are also eligible for further use. They are, however, made of multi-layer plywood. This requires a variety of tools to process them, and securing the body to the hammer handle will not be entirely ordinary (Fig. 8h).
Handles for hammers according to OST 90028-39, mm
Table 8
Handles for hammers with square heads have slight differences in size with the data given in table. 7. Therefore, there is no special table on handles for hammers with square heads. The material for the handle plays an important role in its quality. GOST 11 042-83 allows the use of hardwood lumber for hammer handles. Young oak, white beech, maple, etc. go to the production of handles. Birch and ash are less acceptable.
The handles are made exclusively from dry and viscous material, which can subsequently take on a natural polish. Cracks, rot, sprouts and wormholes are unacceptable. Two fused healthy knots with a diameter of no more than 5 mm at a distance of 2/3 of the length of the handle from the side of the free end can still sometimes be seen, but not on handles for tile hammers. Knots on the handles of these hammers are generally prohibited. Sagging, cavities, bubbles, dents and wallpaper are also not found on factory-made handles.
Suitable branches of purebred trees will give and increase the longevity of the handle. The bark here will act as a constriction tube. Such handles, however, will not correspond to the recommended ones (Fig. 7). Moreover, the handles will be rough, which, according to our “guide” books, will cause calluses. Maybe. It all depends on how and how much you work. However, you should sometimes look around for comparison. No. There is no need to move beyond the cordon. The shelves of domestic stores will surprise you. The handles of overseas axes, say, at the grip site, have specially drilled recesses (Fig. 7d), which prevents the palm from sliding. A number of domestic hammers with tubular rods (Fig. 2 c, e, g, n) are equipped with rubber handles for this purpose. By the way, spitting on the palm also slows down their “shift”.
Rice. 8. Fastening the body to the hammer handle: a - slopes of the body hole; 6 - wooden wedge; c - a metal wedge with “petals” along the edges; g - with one click; d - two wedges; e - three wedges; g - screws or nails; 3 - steel wire.
The standard technology for manufacturing the handle is as follows:
- 1) marking the workpiece according to the drawing, taking into account the processing allowance;
- 2) filing the surface leaving an allowance;
- 3) planing of the workpiece leaving a minimum allowance;
- 4) surface treatment with sandpaper until the minimum allowance is removed;
- 5) surface coating with enamels bright colors or varnish, oiling is also acceptable.
A freshly made handle can also be dried in hot smoke or heated strongly in front of a fire. Then - sanding with medium-grain sandpaper and fine emery cloth. Rubbing with wood shavings until a gloss appears - last operation in surface finishing. If there is no skin, the surface of the handle is smoothly scraped with fragments of window glass.
Attaching the body to the handle
Bench hammers (Fig. 1) are the most common in everyday life. If you carefully examine the holes in the housings, you will see that each hole at the inputs has an expansion-slope (Fig. 8a), and between the expansions there is an oval belt. Clear? The narrowed part of the handle is squeezed through the belt until it comes out on the other side of the hole to a length of approximately 2 mm (GOST 11042-83, p. 21). To make it easier for the handle to enter the hole, the narrowed part is slightly rubbed with fat and tapped on the end of the thickened part. The cone facing the main part of the handle will be filled to some extent. But between the opposite cone in the body and the protruding part of the handle there will be an oval gap. It will be filled by the end of the narrowed part after driving, say, a wooden or metal wedge into it (Table 9).
Wooden wedges
Table 9
body, g |
Dimensions, mm |
Number of teeth |
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Note: 1) the table is partial; 2) some sizes are rounded.
The overall dimensions of metal wedges are approximately the same as those of wooden ones (Fig. 86). On wooden wedges, the teeth-steps are made in such a way as to prevent the handle from coming out of the hammer on its own; on metal wedges, notches are made with a chisel. To do this, the metal plate is clamped in a vice. Safety precautions are needed here too. A plate simply resting against something “resistant” can slip out and injure. Ruff notches are also created by welding. The holes in the plate of the future wedge also slow down its exit from the wooden handle. The petals along the edges (Fig. 8c) of the wedge will successfully replace the notches. The cuts to create the petals are made with a hacksaw, and the bends are made with pliers or a hammer.
The number of wedges for fastening the body and handle is different. If the hammer hole has only a lateral expansion-slope between the points GB and VL, then one longitudinal wedge is hammered in (Fig. 8d). Moreover, not surprisingly, GOST 11042-83 says: “Tolerance for the symmetry of the thrust axis relative to the plane of symmetry of the hammer body: 0.3 mm for a hammer body weighing up to 0.2 kg; 0.5 mm - for a hammer body weighing from 0.2 to 1.0 kg...". It's clear. The layers of wood in the handle should extend parallel to its axis. When this parallelism is too distorted, and even the gap under the wedge is crooked and at random, then there is a possibility of the handle splitting when driving the wedge.
The expansion-slope between points BV and GD occurs only along the hole. Two wedges are then hammered in (Fig. 8e). Three wedges are “driven” into the handle when the expansion is inclined along the entire oval hole. Two wedges are placed parallel to each other, and the third is perpendicular to them and between them (Fig. 8a, e). By the way, GOST 11042-83 states: “The number of wedges, the position of the wedge and the method of wedging are not established by the standard.” The body is considered to be correctly mounted on the handle when a right angle is formed between their axes. It is important to maintain this angle when using the hammer. The body very often wobbles on the handle depending on the impacts, changing the angle of the nozzle.
Many people, instead of a wedge made according to all the rules of art (Fig. 86), use a sliver of a suitable shape. You can't save time. The chip will soon fall out and it will be good, if not with the body. In addition to everything, you still need to systematically check the “health” of the wood chips. She, heartfelt, restrains the body, which is “free” in the process of soaring and is capable of killing. No! I'm not scary! And a legitimate wedge can pop out when some trick is not used.
Before “pushing in”, the WEDGE SHOULD BE LUBRICATED WITH COOKER'S GLUE or some other suitable, but, without a doubt, not office glue.
Are there other ways to secure the body to a wooden handle? Of course there is. Two or three screws are chosen so long that it is approximately 1/2...2/3 of the depth of the housing hole. Two or three holes several millimeters deep are drilled into the end of the handle along the axial plane of the hammer (Fig. 8g). Similar depressions are also made with a nail. It would be good to screw in the screws without hammering them in. To make it easier to screw into a dry handle, the screws are lubricated or deeper holes are drilled with a drill with a diameter two to three times smaller than the diameter of the screws.
Nails are also a kind of wedges, but not just any kind. Tar nails come closest to this purpose. The diameter of their rods is 2...3 mm, length - 20...400 mm. If there are no such nails, then shorten construction nails of the appropriate diameters. Light, thermally untreated low-carbon steel wire is used for stamping. Therefore, notches are not so difficult to make on them. When making nicks is a problem, then use rusty nails of the recommended sizes. The rust will provide at least some resistance to popping out. Like screws, nails should not be driven into the end of the handle more than half the depth of the hole. If the nail is large, it is cut off with a chisel, an ax or a hacksaw. The stump is sharpened. This operation is eliminated when the shortening is “performed” not perpendicular to the axis of the rod, but at an angle. The smaller the angle between the axis of the rod and the chisel blade, the sharper the stump. By the way, a wedge nail head is not required. Consequently, the cut off part will not greatly damage the nail, which is then used for its intended purpose.
A steel wire with a diameter of 3...4 mm closes the body well to the hammer handle (Fig. 8h). The hole for passing the wire is drilled at a sufficient distance from the end in the handle. When the wire is too steely to bend, it is annealed a little on any fire. Two grooves in the handle are threaded for laying the wire. Then the “collective” is passed into the body and the ends of the wire are bent. They are sometimes made longer in order to wrap around a body of a suitable shape, for example, a mechanic's hammer with a round striker.
Sometimes it happens that the usual appearance of instruments quickly becomes boring and is in no way original, since it does not stand out from the others in any way, which, as usual, looks dull and does not cause any delight. That is why the idea of creating a carved hammer handle was undertaken, and I will tell you how the author made it in this article. Before moving on to the process of making a carved handle, you need to decide on the choice of tool, namely in this case hammer, as it is very popular in the workplace of every do-it-yourselfer.
In order to make a carved pen with your own hands, we will need:
* The hammer itself has a wooden handle, ordinary, standard, in this case 600 grams.
* Wood cutters.
* Stationery knife.
* Drill with grinding attachments.
* Varnish for wooden products.
* Pencil.
Once you are sure that all the details are there, you can begin the creative process.
Step one.
Armed with a pencil, draw the pattern that you want to see on your handle, in this case it is a diamond-shaped pattern that looks quite original and tasteful.
After all the markings are ready, you can start cutting out the template, the so-called removal of the first layer, we do this using stationery knife, precisely cutting along the lines of a piece of wood. When working with sharp tools, be careful and also do not forget about safety measures; for this, it is better to protect your hands with gloves. In the process of cutting out patterns, for more precise processing of the ends, it is better to cut them with more force so as not to leave burrs.
Step two.
Next, we use cutters designed for carving in wood, with the help of them you will get a deeper place in the patterns, which will give them greater clarity and will look more impressive than a shallow groove. Chinese-made cutters cannot boast of high reliability and resistance to stress, therefore, during the cutting process, their blades broke several times, so be on alert, and also work with them carefully, since during processing there is a risk of driving the blade into your hand, which is not pleasant outcome of events. After final work the cutters turned out something similar to diamonds.
Step three.
The patterns are refined using a drill and a grinding attachment; after this processing process, the handle takes on a more beautiful aesthetic appearance, as well as smooth corners.
When the work with the drill is completed, we make the surface smooth with sandpaper, which must be used to clean all sides of the handle.
Step four.
For greater convenience, the decision was made to make a hole in the handle to place the hammer on a shelf or hang it on a nail next to other tools. We do this using a drill installed in a screwdriver, then we grind this hole and enlarge it with a drill.
Step five.
The final stage is to coat the surface of our carved hammer with a preliminary decorative layer, then varnish it in several layers.
A durable hammer that can withstand high impact force and at the same time a rubberized outside hammer is easy to make with your own hands. The mold for casting it is done simply, and the materials you will need are quite affordable. Step by step process How to make a concrete hammer with your own hands is outlined and clearly demonstrated below.
Materials
Before you make a hammer with your own hands, make sure you have:
- Lego constructor;
- concrete mixing solution;
- solution epoxy resin;
- wooden handle;
- sharp knife or screwdriver;
- wax for polishing wood;
- chisels;
- sandpaper;
- gloves;
- corner.
Step 1. Using Lego, assemble a mold for casting the striking part of the hammer. The good thing about the constructor is that its parts fit as closely as possible to each other, preventing the solution from leaking out through the cracks. The product can be made to any size. In this case, a small hammer was needed. You can change it at your own discretion.
Step 2. Place a wooden handle in the center of the assembled mold for casting the hammer. Be sure to make sure that the part of the future tool is durable and not rotten. For the handle, choose strong types of wood; in this master class it was walnut.
Step 3. Dilute the concrete solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and pour it into the mold. Make sure that the handle continues to stand strictly vertical during the process. Adjust it if necessary. Compact the solution with your hands, after wearing gloves. Be sure to ensure that no air pockets form. The solution must be compacted tightly.
Step 4. After a few hours, disassemble the constructor. Due to smooth surface plastic, the process will go without special effort, but if you doubt that it can be separated from the concrete, lubricate the mold before casting vegetable oil. Give the material a little more time to dry.
Step 5. Dilute the epoxy resin solution. It should be viscous. Using a pencil, carefully apply it to the concrete part of the hammer. Leave the product until the materials are completely dry. This process will take about a day.
A hammer is the most important tool in the house. And he will hammer a nail, and split a nut, and straighten the wire. This is the father of all equipment and all tools. The development of hammer production is characterized by high level progress, so for each activity you can easily find the most effective tool. If you do metalwork, then you will need a plumber's hammer. Without this percussion instrument no master can do without.
The purpose of a plumber's hammer
Humanity has known and used a hammer for a very long time - even at the dawn of existence. This is the very first tool, as well as a weapon. primitive man at the same time. People, as they developed, improved and changed the hammer. The materials of hammers of ancient times corresponded to the development of people and changed in the following sequence: bone - wood - bronze.
The design of the hammer has not changed these days: the butt plate, the striking part with the striker and the handle. The firing pin and the handle are connected to each other through a hole in the body and a wedge driven into the handle. The tail may be various shapes. The body is usually made of steel, but can be made of copper, wood, lead and rubber. The handle is most often made of wood, metal or plastic.
There are many types of hammers. Doctors and architects, cooks and musicians, not to mention carpenters, metalworkers, mechanics and builders, use hammers in their work. The most famous hammers are copper hammers, sledgehammers, straightening hammers, carpenter's hammers, mason's hammers and metalworker's hammers.
It is the last of these, the plumber’s hammer with a round striker, that is the most common and versatile. Its purpose is to prolong, direct and increase the effort of the human hand, delivering an energetic blow to the desired point, assisting another tool - a chisel, chisel, punch.
It is convenient for them to make blows for a variety of work: bending, chopping, riveting, straightening, punching holes, hammering and flattening. A plumber's hammer is used to hammer nails, break concrete or ceramic tiles, give metal tubes their shape.
Construction of a plumber's hammer
A plumber's hammer differs from a regular hammer in that it has two different strikers in its design - a flat one, which is intended for driving nails, and a tapered end, which is convenient for breaking various objects and surfaces. The tool has a slightly convex, not knocked down or oblique surface of the striker, without hardening, bevels, burrs, potholes and cracks.
The price of locksmith hammers with a square striker is cheaper, so this variety is widely used in locksmith practice for light work. And hammers with a round striker have one advantage, which is that the striking part significantly outweighs the rear, which ensures greater accuracy and impact force.
Impact force through plumber's hammer depends on the level of severity of the working part and the movement of the tool. This speed is regulated by a person, and the severity of the working element is regulated by the manufacturer. The impact part of the tool is made of heat-treated steel to ensure high strength and hardness. Therefore, the material used to create hammers is varied.
The striking part of the hammer is usually mounted on an ergonomic handle made of fiberglass or wood. The handles are predominantly made of hardwood (hornbeam, beech, dogwood or birch) and are at least 250 millimeters long for hammers. Bench hammers weigh 0.4 - 0.8 kilograms.
Making a plumber's hammer
A plumber's hammer has one weak spot - the section of the hammer handle, which is located under the striker. When driving pins, nails, wedges, problems arise, especially on initial stage fastening them, craftsmen often miss the target and usually hit the nail not with the striker, but with this section of the handle.
As a result, chips and gouges appear on the handle. Hammers very often become loose, fly off the handle, or break. And buying a plumber's hammer does not guarantee the opposite, since plumber's hammers do not have a special tongue for protection, as, for example, in axes.
Of course, in retail outlets And construction stores hammers with plastic or metal handles are presented, which are completely devoid of the problem of fitting the head, however, locksmith's hammers with wooden handles are traditional. In addition, they fit more securely in the hand and are warmer to the touch.
Therefore, today we will make a DIY hammer with a wooden handle. Remember that it is enough to firmly and securely fasten the handle on it once, and it will work without question.
Handle of a plumber's hammer
So, let's start by making a handle for a plumber's hammer. First, let's talk about the dimensions: the handle should have an oval cross-section, approximately 250 - 350 millimeters long, tapering smoothly towards the end on which the tool head will be mounted. The best wood for making a handle is beech, oak, birch, maple, hornbeam, ash or rowan. It is considered absolutely unacceptable to make handles from easily scratchy wood: spruce, pine, alder or aspen.
Most often, handles for plumbing hammers are made from birch. To do this you will need small board, from which it is necessary to carve the shape of a handle according to technological map making a plumber's hammer, then sand it well using construction sandpaper.
If you plan a handle from a thick birch branch, it must be dried in a warm, well-ventilated and shady place. Do not try to dry wood using artificial heat sources: air heaters, electric fireplaces and radiators, because with such drying the wood will inevitably crack and lose its strength.
If the wooden handle for a plumber's hammer is not sufficiently dried, it will dry out over time and decrease in volume. And therefore the head will dangle on it, constantly trying to fly off the hammer handle. To make the handle even smoother, it is recommended to coat it with a special furniture varnish. That's it, the handle for the plumber's hammer is ready, you can move on to the next stage.
Connection of head and handle
After making the handle, you need to insert its thin end into the hole in the tool head. It is considered ideal to fit the head of a metalworker's hammer on the handle with a certain force or “with interference,” as the craftsmen used to say.
If the handle turns out to be thick, you should first process its thin end with a rasp, and then sandpaper. The end of the hammer handle should ultimately be a gentle cone. Place the head of the plumber's hammer on the handle, making sure it is perpendicular to the axis of the handle.
Hold the handle strictly vertically, with the head of the hammer up, and strike it with the back wide end against a hard surface from top to bottom. With each blow, the head of the plumber's hammer is slowly but surely pressed onto the expanding handle, becoming stronger and stronger on it. During subsequent blows, the immobility of the tool head indicates that it has firmly “sat” on the handle.
Wedging the hammer handle
There are several methods for making a plumber's hammer, but the most reliable is to use wedges. You can make wedges for a plumber's hammer with your own hands. Prepare a place for a wooden wedge. To prevent it from going to the side and damaging the handle, use a narrow chisel to make a notch that is approximately 5 millimeters deep, at an angle of 30 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the hammer.
A wooden wedge is a blade that is approximately 3 millimeters thick, approximately 15 millimeters wide, and ranges in length from 30 to 50 millimeters. The wedge should gradually taper towards the front, but its end must be made blunt.
After you hammer a wooden wedge into the handle of a plumber's hammer 15-20 millimeters, saw off with a hacksaw with small tooth the upper part of the handle that sticks out from the head of the hammer, so that it protrudes beyond the boundaries of the head by at least 2-3 millimeters.
Cut the second wedge from a strip of metal of the same shape and size as the wood wedge, but make it shorter - no more than 20 millimeters long. Take a sheet of iron that is about half a centimeter thick. Sharpen the wedge on a special machine and hammer it into the handle at the same acute angle to the longitudinal axis of the hammer of 30 degrees, but from the center line on the other side.
After the metal wedge is completely driven “flush” into the hammer handle, the work on making a plumber’s hammer can be considered completed. Then you should place the plumber's hammer in water for 5 hours so that the wood swells. When the wood dries, the plumber's hammer will no longer wobble.
Using a plumber's hammer
Hammering a nail into a board using a plumber's hammer is not such an easy task, although it may seem so at first glance. If you make a bad hammer, then the surface underneath will break through and dents will appear, and this is not the most pleasant outcome. To drive a nail, make sure it fits work surface. Finish the job with 2-3 strikes.
In order for the connection to be strong, the nail must penetrate at least one third into the working surface. To make the connection rigid, drive the nails towards each other at an angle. The board will not split if the nail has a diameter of no more than one-fourth of its thickness. If you have to hammer a nail into a thin piece of wood, first use a pair of pliers to bite off its tip, which can tear and split the wood. In wet wood It is easier to drive a nail with a plumber's hammer than with a dry one.
When driving a nail into dry wood, hold it in the middle with pliers so that it does not bend under the resistance of the dry wood. The boards, which are about 10-12 centimeters wide, are fastened with one nail, wide boards nailed with two nails. If you need to drive multiple nails, place them in a staggered pattern in several rows rather than in a straight line. A fairly convenient substitute for driving nails with human fingers is wooden clothespin or a narrow strip of paper folded in half.
