The assortment of nails can be daunting for a less experienced builder, so it is better to find out in advance which nails are intended for what. There is an opinion that it is difficult to obtain a reliable fastening using nails, and they are much inferior to screws. But this is just a myth that can be easily dispelled by own experience, but for this you need to choose the right nails that are most suitable for performing specific jobs.
Types of nails
The nail is very simple fastener, which consists of a cap, a pointed end and a rod. The latter can be round, pyramidal or square section. Depending on the size of each of the constituent elements, their relationship to each other, nails may differ in purpose, and, consequently, in appearance.
Today there are the following main types of nails:
- construction nail- the most common of nails, used quite often, mainly for fastening wooden parts between themselves. This is a rod with a pointed end, and the diameter of the cap is 3-4 times the diameter of the rod. Another feature is the presence of protruding notches on the nail shaft near the head. They are designed to better secure the material and improve fit. For such products it varies widely - from 1 cm to 25 cm;
- roofing nail, as its name suggests, is used for roofing works, for fastening metal sheets To wooden sheathing. It is very similar to a regular construction nail, but has a larger head and a larger shank diameter;
- tar nail also used mainly for roofing, but suitable for fastening soft materials. His key feature– a large cap, which is up to 6 times larger in diameter than the rod;
slate nail– exact copy construction nail, but it differs in its large galvanized cap, which protects against moisture penetration through mounting hole under the sheet The length varies widely, and its selection depends on the height of the wave crest of the slate itself;- screw nail easily distinguished by the spiral grooves on the rod, thanks to which it is possible to obtain reliable connection wooden products. Often such nails are used for arranging wooden floors, as they provide a much more reliable fastening than a regular construction nail. What's more, screw nail fastenings hardly loosen over time;
- rough nail It is distinguished by a rod consisting of successively connected and truncated cones; it appears to have a tooth-like profile. Connections made with the help of such nails are considered one of the most durable, and pulling it out if necessary is not very easy, and in most cases it is completely impossible without destroying the material;
- finishing nail almost the same as the construction one, but its head is much smaller, only 1.5 times the diameter of the rod. During installation, the cap is completely recessed into the material, and it becomes almost invisible;
- baseboard nail it looks like a finishing one, but there is a transverse notch on its rod, which increases the strength of the fastening;
- decorative nail used for fastening finishing materials and features a beautiful patterned hat;
finishing nail- a wire product with a semicircular head, which is only slightly larger in diameter than the parameters of the rod. Often the heads of such nails have a decorative coating;- staple nails- These are nails that are U-shaped and both ends are pointed. Such products are excellent for fastening meshes and cables;
- steel nails– a type of ordinary construction nails, but they are so hard that they cannot be bent, so they are used when working with hard types of wood;
- plaster nails can be wire or carved. The first ones are more common, and instead of a cap they have an L-shaped end that is bent, thanks to which it firmly holds the roofing shingles
- needle type nail characterized by the absence of a cap, used for fastening panels and some other coatings;
- harpoon nail used for driving into the corners of brick walls;
- dowels designed for driving into concrete and brick walls;
- drywall nails – special nails that have a wide head and do not allow the material to collapse;
- double head nail used in construction collapsible structures, as well as when attaching the film in;
- other. In addition, there are a number of other nails that are used much less frequently, only in a certain area. For example, shoe nails – Products with square large hats are used in shoe repair. There are also horseshoe nails, ship and barge nails, glass and lock nails, the scope of which is clear from the name.
Nails can also be separated according to the shape of the hat. Hidden hat the better that such a nail is hardly noticeable on the surface, it can be driven in level without disturbing the structure of the material itself. If the nail has a non-concealed head, then when you try to drive it flush with the surface, you can destroy it: for example, veneer MDF coating the slabs will probably burst. Choose suitable option necessary, starting from where it will be and what needs to be fastened.
Nail material
The nail can be made from the most different materials, on which the scope of its further use depends. Many people do not think about this fundamental difference and use the same nails both indoors and outdoors. And then unpleasant situations often arise when the nail begins to rust and ceases to perform its direct functions.
The simplest of black steel, but it is better to use them in dry rooms, since they instantly rust when in contact with moisture. Also, some builders use such nails for the construction of temporary structures: in this case, their rapid corrosion cannot cause any harm.
To be sure that the nail will not rust or collapse, it is better to use products with a protective coating. So, the most popular are considered galvanized nails that can withstand moisture without losing their appearance, not performance.
Coating made of brass or copper will protect the nail from oxidation even in humid, aggressive environments, so such products are used either in the most difficult conditions, or when you need to be 100% confident in the reliability of the result. Another bonus of brass nails is that their color allows them to be used along with finishing nails, and they will not be noticeable against the background of wooden lining.
You can even find it on sale aluminum nails. Aluminum itself instantly oxidizes in air under the influence of moisture, but the aluminum oxide formed on the surface resists all negative influences environment, protecting the rest of the product from them.
Nail length
Depending on the specific case, nails of different lengths are selected. So, you need to nail a thinner part to a thick one, and the length of the nail should be 2.5-4 times greater than the thickness of the part that is being nailed. You can also use another rule: the nail must enter 2/3 of its length into the part to which it is nailed: this ensures reliable fastening, and the end will not stick out on the other side, presenting a danger. If it turns out that the length of the nail is clearly greater than the width of the two parts being fastened together, then the end of the already driven nail is bent with a hook and driven into the surface.
Nails appeared a long time ago. The ancient people cast the first nails from bronze. Then they learned to make them from iron. First iron nails were flat until they learned to forge a square rod and make a flat head. Since nails were made by hand in the old days, they were very expensive. The nail became widely used only after the invention of machines on which it was possible to pull wire. Now nails are mass produced, they have become round, identical and affordable.
There are many types of nails, different in purpose. A separate group consists of nails used in construction.
Here are the main ones:
Ordinary construction nail
The most common type of nail. It is used in the construction of house frames, fastening rafters, lathing for metal tiles or metal slate (PF-25) and others roofing materials. Smaller nails are used for installation wood paneling facades and pediments and other construction work. A construction nail is a long, straight steel rod with notches near the round head. The length of a construction nail can range from 12 to 250 mm. The nail is selected such a length that it pierces the entire package of parts to be joined, but its end does not come out.
To extend their service life, nails are galvanized or made from of stainless steel.
The nail shaft can be smooth or grooved to enhance the strength of the connection. Nails with notches (brushed) have greater resistance to pulling out and reliably fasten the parts to be connected.
Rough nail
The rough nail has a transverse notch on its shaft, ensuring a very tight fit of the nail. Rough nails are used when increased strength requirements are placed on joints, for fastening perforated connecting plates. A hammered, rough nail is very difficult to pull out; it is more likely to simply break.
screw nail
Screw nails are used for bending structures, and also if it is intended high humidity wood, vibration or heavy load on it - these are piers, walkways, batten, external cladding buildings. This nail increases the strength of the connection four times compared to conventional nails. It is very difficult to remove such a nail from its socket.
Duckert nail (finishing)
This is a nail with a very small head. They are used for fastening wooden lining, door and window frames. The head of the finishing nail is recessed into the wood and the nail is not noticeable.
Slate nails
Used for nailing slate to wooden roof sheathing. The nail is a round rod with a galvanized head-washer of large diameter - up to 18 mm. The diameter of the slate nail rod is 5 mm, length 70 - 120 mm. It must be galvanized to avoid the appearance of traces of corrosion on the roof. When choosing the size of slate nails, they are guided by maximum height slate ridges, while the length of the nail should be 10-20 mm more than the amount the thickness of the sheathing board and the height of the slate ridge. This is necessary so that it is possible to bend the “nose” of the nail - then in the event of a strong wind the slate sheet will not come off. Now asbestos slate is considered a harmful and obsolete material. It was replaced by galvanized metal slate (PF-25), which is attached to the sheathing not with nails, but roofing screws with sealing washer.
Tar paper nails
have a flat head of increased diameter to hold soft rolled or sheet material(roof felt, roofing felt, cardboard). A wide flat head holds the material more reliably in the place of fastening.
Wallpaper nails
- used for fastening upholstery materials on doors, furniture. They have a decorative cap. Their size is small - from 12 to 20 mm.
Using nails
Is the simplest and in a fast way connections of wooden elements.
The strength of the connection is ensured by the fact that the nail partially breaks and partially pushes apart the wood fibers, forming a hole in it with compacted walls. Thanks to this, it is firmly clamped into the wood and has good resistance to pulling out.
The connection of boards and beams along the length is called splicing. If wooden elements if they are connected across the width, this is joining; if at an angle, this is tying. If wooden parts are attached to supports, this is called anchoring.
The disadvantage of a nail joint is its increased creep. To reduce the creep of critical components, the nail connection is crimped using tension bolts, and perforated steel pads are used.
It may seem like it’s not easy to hammer a nail, but it requires skill.
Following some rules will help you perform these operations better:
- - Always hold the hammer by the end of the handle if you need a strong blow. Grabbing the hammer closer to the head reduces force, but increases the accuracy of the blow;
- - in order for the hammer to hit the target accurately, you should look at the head of the nail, and not at the hammer;
- - if you drive nails at an angle to each other, the connection will be stronger;
- - the nail should first be baited with a couple of light blows, and then hammered in with strong blows;
- - hammer the nail with sharp and strong blows of the hammer - then the nail will stay in the socket more securely. If you hit a nail too many times, the wood fibers may break and the nail will not hold well in the socket;
- — the direction of impact on the head must coincide with the direction of the nail shaft. Otherwise, during impacts, stresses will arise in the nail shaft, leading to its bending.
- — nails must be driven into a healthy part of the wood, avoiding knots and cracks;
For ease of work, you need to have not one hammer, but at least two, different in weight, because... The impact force depends on the weight of the hammer. With a light hammer You can hammer in small nails. For roofing work: installation of rafters, lathing under metal tiles, it is better to use a hammer weighing 400-600 grams. Large nails are driven in with a hammer weighing 0.8 - 1 kg.
Ease of use also depends on the hammer handle. It must have high elasticity and strength. It’s good if it has a rubber or silicone handle so that the blows don’t hit the worker’s hand. The handle of the Stanley Graphite hammer has these properties.
How to properly hold a hammer while working? How to strike correctly?
Exist various ways. By general rule the hammer is held by the middle of the lower half of the handle. Then the blows are strong and sharp. If you only need high accuracy blows, then the hammer is held closer to the head.
Light and precise blows with a hammer are performed with the hand.
Stronger blows for driving nails are applied “from the elbow”.
And, if strong and sharp blows are required, the hammer swing is performed “from the shoulder.” This may reduce the accuracy of the strikes.
The higher the speed of penetration of the nail into the wood, the higher the quality of the socket
Rules for driving nails correctly:
Nails are always driven in from the side of the thinner part. The length of the nail should exceed the thickness of the board being nailed by 2-3 times. The more of the nail that goes into the wood, the stronger the joint. The diameter of the nail should be no more than a quarter of the thickness of the part being nailed.
Boards 100-120 mm wide for cladding house facades (planks, lining) are nailed at each fastening point with only one nail. When the width of the boards is more than 130 mm, they are nailed with two nails.
To give greater rigidity to the nail connection, it is necessary to drive the nails not strictly perpendicular to the surface, but at a slight inclination (5-10°) different sides. Then the nail will not be an axis of rotation for the parts being connected.
Please note: a nail hammered along the grain (into the end of a block or board) holds much weaker than one hammered across the grain. Perforated fasteners help improve the reliability of end connections, for example mounting angles.
The more annual layers of wood a nail goes through, the more securely it will be fixed.
The figure shows several of the most common rules for hammering nails:
- 1. To prevent the wood from splitting and increase the strength of the connection, you can pre-drill holes for nails with a diameter of 80% of the nail diameter. In this case, the nail has greater fastening ability, since the wood fibers are not torn and compress the surface of the nail with greater force.
- 2. hammer nails using a countersink and at an angle to the surface to protect the workpiece from hammer blows or drive the nail into a recessed hole and provide a more durable connection
- 3. The holes above the nail head can be filled with putty to hide the nail.
- 4. a nail hammered perpendicularly provides a less strong connection along the axis of rotation around the nail
- 5. hammer no more than one nail into each fiber
- 6. incorrect placement of nails is shown - the resulting stresses can split the board
When choosing nails, take into account the fact that when the diameter of the nails is less than 6 mm, they load bearing capacity shear does not depend on the angle formed by the directions of force and fibers. For the strength of the connection, it is better to hammer in several thinner nails than one thick one, of the same cross-section as the total cross-section of the thin ones.
Driving nails into solid wood inevitably creates splitting stresses in it, which are more dangerous the closer the nails are placed. To ensure that the nails do not wear out or split the wood, they must be driven in at a certain distance from each other.
Correct placement of nails according to domestic standards building codes shown in the figure.
When placing nails in straight rows:
from the ends of the board -15d,
The distances between nails across the grain (S 2) and from the nail to the edge of the element (S 3) must be at least 4d.
When arranging nails in a checkerboard pattern or in oblique rows at 45º:
The distances between nails with diameter d along the fibers of the elements being connected (S 1) must be at least:
from the end edge-15d,
between the axes of nails in elements with a thickness equal to or greater than 10d-15d,
if the thickness of the element is equal to four nail diameters - 25d,
and in elements of intermediate thickness, the distance is determined by interpolation.
Distances between nails across the grain (S 2) – 3d,
from the nail to the edge of the element (S 3) must be at least 3d, and 4d when arranged in oblique rows..
In multi-layer cross-joints, the specified nail spacing standards must be observed for each layer of boards.
When driving nails back and forth, if their ends overlap one another by no more than 1/3 of the thickness of the middle element, it is allowed to maintain the same markings of nails on each side of the connection.
The distance between nails along the wood grain in elements made of aspen, alder and poplar should be increased by 50% compared to the above.
Nail connections are distinguished between pull-out nails and bendable nails.
Connections with pull-out nails
used for fastening boards of ceiling linings, floor panels, and formwork. Due to the action of loads in these joints, tensile forces N arise, tending to pull the nails out of the wood of the element to which the boards are nailed. This force is resisted by frictional forces between the surface of the nails and the surrounding wood.
The dimensions of the nails to be pulled out are selected so that the estimated length of the nail l 1 is not less than 10d of the nail and not less than double the thickness of the boards being nailed.
Bend Nail Connections
used at joints and joints of plank structures, preventing mutual displacement of the elements being connected. In a joint, the nails work in bending, and the surrounding wood works in compression.
Nails have increased bending resistance because the cold-drawn wire has a high yield strength.
- To hammer a nail into wooden board and at the same time not get cracks, you must first make a hole in the place where you will hammer in the nail using a drill, slightly smaller than the diameter of the nail. There will be no cracks, and the connection will be stronger.
- .When it is impossible to provide a strong support for the parts being knocked down, place a second hammer, an ax or a wooden block under the workpieces.
All photos from the article
Edged board 25 mm is deservedly considered one of the most common construction and finishing materials. The size of 25 mm is approximately equal to one inch, for this reason among professionals it is often called an inch. In this article we decided to talk about where edged and unedged board 25, and also touch upon the issues of competent selection of such forest.
Where is inch wood used?
First, let's figure out what is commonly called a board. Everyone knows that there are boards, beams and beams, but not everyone knows how they differ. A plank is usually called a plank whose width is more than twice its thickness. Therefore, a board 25 by 25 mm is not really such a board; here we mean a block.
In the case when the width of the plank does not exceed two thickness sizes, such a product is called a beam. It is also quite easy to distinguish timber from timber. The instructions state that if any of the sizes cross section planks exceed 100 mm, such a plank is called a beam. Anything smaller is called a block.
In private construction, inch wood is used to one degree or another at almost all stages of house construction. The 200x25 board is ideally suited for constructing formwork for pouring a concrete foundation. The strength characteristics of such planks make it possible to equip formwork for a monolith up to half a meter thick, which is usually enough to build a house.
If the owners chose wooden floors, then the 25x200 board will come in handy here too. This kind of wood is often used for rough subflooring. As a top finishing coating, this wood can only be used as a substrate for thick plywood from 10 mm and above. This “sandwich” is often installed in houses for laminate flooring.
If you do housework, the need to hammer a nail will arise more than once. Although the task seems simple, there are also nuances to consider. Knowing which nail to choose for a certain type of job will help you cope with the repair.
How to determine the type of nail
First of all, find the option that suits your situation:
A construction nail with which you fasten the parts remains a common and affordable one. It is easy to distinguish by its large cap and notches located near it. The length of the product varies, so you will choose the one that suits you.
Roofing nails are distinguished by a large head and the presence of a thick rod. This is because they have to hold the slate sheets in place.
The felt type should cope with fastening soft sheets. For this reason, the products have a wide cap, which will not break through the sensitive material. Their length varies, but the diameter of the upper part should remain large.
Slate models differ little from construction ones, but are equipped with a large head. The peculiarity is due to the fact that the product must not only hold the sheets, but also prevent the penetration of raindrops. To choose the length, you will have to take into account the type of slate: the size of the wave becomes the determining factor.
Screw nails are needed for those who work with wood. They are equipped with spiral-shaped projections to avoid fiber delamination. If you are going to fix the boards on the floor, using this product will make the task easier.
The rough type is used for reliable fastenings. The choice of length becomes important factor, since it will not be possible to replace the nail without difficulty. The models are equipped with a tooth-shaped profile, and it will not be possible to pull them out of the wood without damaging its fibers.
Products of the “needle” type are not equipped with caps. Use them to hold panels together.
The finishing nails should be inconspicuous, which affects the size of the heads. Although the length varies, the upper part remains small, and when working, it must be completely driven into the material.
Finishing types are often equipped with decorative heads.
If you are attaching drywall, regular nails will cause the material to fail. Apply special products, whose cap is developed adjusted to the tasks. Since it is different in size, the pressure is low and cracking can be prevented.
Once you decide on the type, you will select the right solution.
How to choose nail length
To use a nail of the required length, make allowances for the tasks at hand. Consider the detail, because the product parameter should be 2.5-4 times greater than its width. Use another rule, according to which the nail should not be driven to its full length: 2/3 is enough to fix the parts. Such fastening will prevent the end from coming out on the other side of the board, because a sharp part will pose a danger. If it was not possible to choose the correct length, after completing the work, bend the nail using a hammer.
What material is suitable
Reliability is also ensured by the materials chosen for the nails. If you don't think about this feature and use it for external works models designed for internal fastenings will have to forget about durability. You have different options at your disposal:
Black steel will please you with its cheapness, but that’s where the advantages end. It cannot withstand contact with moisture, and the effects of rain will become destructive. Outdoors, nails can be used to build temporary structures since durability is not required.
For long-lasting results, take galvanized nails, since they are equipped with a protective coating. As a result, they are distinguished by a presentable appearance, and the quality is not satisfactory.
Brass and copper are necessary for those who are going to build a building in conditions high humidity. The advantages include reliability combined with appearance. Thanks to the shade, the product can be driven into wooden lining, without further work.
Find the nails that will be optimal for your case and you will be satisfied.
Thanks to the assortment, you will choose products suitable for your situation. Take into account the nuances, and a building fastened with nails will last for many years.
Construction, roofing, screw, finishing - how to choose the most suitable ones from this variety of nails to perform a specific construction task?
Recently, there has been a widespread belief that fastening with nails is unreliable, so when performing installation work Preference should be given to screws and self-tapping screws.
I dare to assure you that the correctly selected nails will ensure your design highest quality fasteners, not inferior in any way, and in some characteristics even superior to the vaunted self-tapping screws.
Types of nails
The most convenient and logical is the classification of nails depending on their purpose.
Building the nail is perhaps the most common species fasteners Designed for connecting wooden parts together and fastening structures made from them.
It is a rod with a pointed end, with reverse side which has a cap with a diameter 3-4 times larger than the thickness of the rod.
On the nail shaft, next to the head, there are protruding transverse notches that strengthen the fit of the nail in the material. The length of the rod can vary over a very wide range - from 10 to 250 mm.
Roofing The nail, as its name suggests, is used in roofing work to secure the metal sheets of the roof to the wood from which the sheathing is made. Outwardly, it is very similar to a construction nail, differing from it in its head, which has a much larger diameter, and a thicker shaft.
Tolevy a nail is needed to attach soft roofing materials to the roof sheathing. It has a large flat head, the diameter of which is 5-6 times the thickness of the nail. Thanks to large area pressure, roofing felt and roofing felt, secured with such nails, do not tear.
Slate The nail replicates the design and appearance of a construction nail, the only difference being the large galvanized cap that protects the roof from moisture penetration through the mounting hole in the slate sheet. The higher the wave crest of the slate sheet, the longer the slate nail should be.
Screw the nail has a rod on the surface of which spiral grooves are applied. Used for reliable connection of wooden parts, regardless of whether the wood from which they are made dries out or swells.
When driving, it is screwed into the material without disturbing its structure. The strength of a connection with such a nail is an order of magnitude greater than the strength of a fastener with a conventional construction nail. Most often used when arranging wooden floors for attaching boards with cross beams. Such fasteners do not weaken and the floor does not creak.
Another type of hardware that provides super-strong connection of parts is rough or comb nail. Thanks to the special shape of the pin, reminiscent of jagged cones connected in a sequence, a ribbed nail tightly fastens parts and structures together.
It holds so tightly that removing it from the construction material, if necessary, is associated with significant difficulties - pulling out a comb nail already driven into the material is almost impossible.
For fastening platbands, skirting boards and others decorative elements fits perfectly baseboard and finishing nails. Both have a reduced head that is recessed into the material, and the core of the plinth nail is also equipped with a transverse notch for better fixation of the nail in the material.
With or without protective coating
Using black steel nails that do not have protective coating, is justified only in the case of fastening wooden parts and structures inside dry, moisture-protected rooms or for the construction of temporary structures made of wood.
If moisture gets on the surface of such a nail...
