How to insulate the walls inside a cinder block house. How to insulate a cinder block house from the inside yourself? Basic requirements and selection criteria

Building a house from cinder blocks has a number of obvious advantages. Such construction is economically profitable, because the walls of such a structure are erected quite quickly.

However, when building a house from cinder blocks, you need to know how to insulate cinder block walls and perform this procedure as efficiently as possible.

Classification

Today there are two technologies for building insulation:

1. “wet” with plastering, which involves mechanical or adhesive installation of thermal insulation to the wall surface and subsequent laying of a reinforcing layer and a finishing decorative coating;
2. “dry” using a protective and decorative screen.

Insulation options

This is not to say that cinder block is a completely ideal material. It is characterized by some disadvantages. For example, the material does not tolerate dampness, especially with insufficient high-quality insulation. The structure freezes, and then, when it thaws, the cinder block can crumble. That is why it must be insulated. Today, there are several technologies that answer the question of how to insulate a cinder block house from the inside or outside.

Before starting work, you need to clearly understand: it’s just cold in the house, or the walls of the house are really freezing and damp. The process of insulating the outside of a building can be carried out using the methods described below.

Ventilated facade

The ventilated system consists of stacked elements connecting to a single façade structure. A high-quality system is characterized by the ideal placement of existing finishing elements located in the same plane with the facade.

In this case, the gap that forms between two adjacent panels can be minimal or pronounced. Installation of panels with gaps will allow you to hide various flaws in the work, as well as, if necessary, adjust the finishing elements.

Some types of systems provide 3D adjustment, thanks to which you can perfectly align the plane of each element relative to the adjacent one.

Using a special material, façade sealant, you can putty the seams between the ceramic tiles. After this, the seams must be covered with ceramic chips.

It is especially important to correctly calculate the thickness of the ventilation gap.

Note!
Different types of systems are able to provide gaps of different thicknesses.

This parameter directly depends on the thickness of the insulating material used. However, the limit norm is considered to be 100 mm; otherwise, too much traction occurs in the formed space. It is extremely undesirable in case of fire.

Note!
The minimum gap width that can provide effective ventilation of walls is 20 mm.
In the case of a one-story building, it is better to increase the gap to 4 cm, then the required volume of ventilation will be ensured.

The instructions for most systems for installing facades imply the following procedure:

1. surface marking;
2. fastening guides;
3. installation and fixation insulation material;
4. installing a windproof membrane on top of the insulation;
5. installation of sub-cladding structure;
6. laying facing material.

Note!
The insulation material must be securely fixed, otherwise the insulation boards are likely to slip, which will lead to the formation of cooling sections of the wall.

Two-layer mineral wool insulation materials are fixed with the harder side of the building, which ensures an excellent fit of the slabs with the soft side to the surface of the building wall. At the same time, the outer side of the structure will retain some rigidity.

Layered masonry

Also insulate a cinder block house with outside it is possible according to the method layered masonry . This technology involves the creation of a three-layer structure using effective insulating material between the surface of the load-bearing or self-supporting wall and facing material.

Since you can even insulate a cinder block house from the outside using this method with your own hands, such a three-layer construction is very popular.

In addition, it has a number of advantages:

• small thickness and weight;
• fire resistance;
• unique appearance.

Layered masonry during insulation work often does not have external differences from monolithic brickwork. Therefore, experts consider such walls to be reliable and durable.

The most interesting thing is that apartments in houses whose facades are made facing bricks, are always in demand, because not many people understand that this house is not actually built of brick.

The layered masonry method stands out from other existing techniques:

• simplicity of the set of materials;
• standard installation method;
• as well as the opportunity to carry out work year-round.

Warm facade

Facade systems as a method of implementation thermal insulation works for buildings is a multilayer structure and at the same time structural element structures

Today we will tell you how to insulate a cinder block bathhouse from the inside and why, contrary to the instructions of heating engineers, it is necessary to carry out internal work. Houses should be insulated from the street side using one of two methods. The cinder block is laid in one row; unlike brickwork, there is no air buffer zone, and as you know, air - best heat insulator. The blocks are afraid of moisture and they are very cold, so you can’t do without insulation in tandem with special films.

Choosing material for cinder block walls

Without insulation, a cinder block house will be cold.

Before we talk about the method of insulating cinder block walls from the outside and inside, let’s decide on the materials:

• mineral wool (mats or );
• liquid thermal insulation (PPU, penoizol, );
• expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
• penofol.

In addition to thermal insulation materials, special films are used. Before insulating a cinder block house, let’s look at the types of films (membranes) that are used to protect thermal insulation. There are three types in total:

• wind barrier - does not blow through, allows moisture and steam to pass through;
• waterproofing – protection from moisture, allows steam to escape from the thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier - does not let anything through.

It is important to lay membranes right side, otherwise they will not perform their tasks. In principle, the choice of thermal insulation largely depends on the conditions under which the thermal insulation will be used. For example, in a house or a bathhouse, because in the latter there is not only an increased level of humidity, but also very high temperatures, especially in the steam room. It is very important that the thermal insulation withstands high temperatures and does not emit toxic substances.

Internal or external insulation

How to properly insulate a cinder block house: from the inside or the outside? We have discussed this issue more than once and once again we will repeat that, according to technology, thermal insulation should be attached from the street side. Only in this case you do not risk moving the dew point to inner part walls will get worse results than before insulation. There are situations when you have to install thermal insulation inside, for example, in a steam room, because by insulating a cinder block bathhouse from the inside, you will protect the walls from moisture, which is also very important. Concrete blocks in conditions of high humidity they will last much less.

In addition, insulating a cinder block house from the outside is necessarily accompanied by a calculation of the thickness of the insulation. In each case, this indicator will be different, the result is affected by:

• region of your residence;
• wall thickness.

During the construction of walls, the blocks are placed on edge or laid flat, and in one row. It turns out that there is no air buffer zone, as with brickwork. Practice has shown that even if you choose the largest blocks, such buildings cannot do without additional thermal insulation.

How to insulate cinder block walls from the inside

The steam room in the bathhouse is insulated from the inside.

Internal insulation of a cinder block house is not recommended, unless, for example, you can use special paint with ceramic hollow spheres or penofol as additional thermal insulation. As independent materials they are ineffective. Thermal insulation of cinder block walls from the inside is practiced in steam saunas, when it is additionally necessary to protect the walls from moisture. In this case, the main thing is to prevent moisture from the steam room from getting into the insulation layer. Naturally, you can only use mineral wool. Work method:

• a wooden frame is erected on the inside of the walls in the steam room;
• Mineral wool, preferably basalt, is placed between the guides;
• foil insulation is spread over the sheathing - it is very effective for saunas, as it blocks infrared radiation and does not allow steam to pass through;
• a second tier of sheathing is installed on top of the foam foam;
• A wooden lining is attached to the second tier.

Mineral wool needs to be laid in two layers and ensure that the joints do not coincide. The minimum insulation layer is 10 cm. The main thing is not to forget to glue the foam foam joints with special (not stationery) tape. Also, one should not neglect the ventilation gap between penofol and wooden clapboard. Without it, reflective insulation simply will not work, and besides, the condensation on the foam foam must evaporate. Penofol foil often has small holes that are invisible to the eye. Therefore, to be on the safe side, you need to lay a vapor barrier membrane under the penofol.

External insulation method

Wet façade technique.

External insulation of a cinder block wall is performed using two methods:

• wet facade;
• ventilated facade.

Before you insulate a cinder block house from the outside, you should decide on a methodology to make it easier for you to figure out what will be more profitable. Wet facade- This is the application of plaster directly on top of the insulation. This method is possible using mineral wool or polystyrene foam (regular and extruded). The density of wool must be at least 50 kg/m. cube, foam plastic not less than 25 kg/m. cube, a larger error is welcome.

How to insulate a cinder block house from the outside using the wet facade method:

• the wall must be smooth and primed;
• The thermal insulation is glued to the wall and fixed with dowels;
• a layer of putty is applied, a reinforcing mesh is embedded in it, a special plastic corner is used at the corners;
• a second layer of putty is applied on top;
• the surface is primed and painted.

Mineral wool is glued to universal dry construction adhesive, which must be diluted with water, and can also be used to putty. Polystyrene foam, in addition to such glue, can be attached to adhesive foam - similar to mounting foam, but intended for polystyrene foam boards.

If the insulation is laid in two layers, then the slabs of each layer must be secured with dowels, because they will be subject to the load not only from the weight of the thermal insulation, but also from two layers of putty. Naturally, all seams are foamed and they should not match. Do not ignore slopes; cold air enters the room through them.

Ventilated façade technique.

The ventilated façade technique consists of constructing a structure with outside, where the thermal insulation layer will be blown. This is necessary to remove all possible condensation and for cooling, which is convenient in the hot summer. The technique can be used:

• mineral wool;
• polystyrene foam with its derivatives;
• liquid thermal insulation;
• ecowool.

First, the first level of sheathing is erected, then the thermal insulation stage. Mineral wool and foam plastic are glued, and ecowool, polyurethane foam and penoizol are sprayed onto the wall using a compressor. Afterwards, any film is laid, which should first of all be a wind barrier, and if it still does not allow moisture to pass through, this is only a plus. The next level of sheathing is built on top of the film, which is necessary so that there is a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation and the finishing. In the buffer air zone, flows always circulate from bottom to top, like an exhaust hood. Considering this fact, Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the degree of flammability of the materials used. Should choose , which we already wrote about once.

Brief summary

Before you insulate a cinder block house from the inside, remember the parting words of heating engineers: “Only external insulation gives a good result.” Work inside is carried out only if it is necessary to protect the walls from the destructive effects of moisture, for example, in a steam room. In houses, internal thermal insulation can be an addition to the external one, nothing more. From the street side, a house can be insulated using two methods: wet and ventilated facade. Before work, always consider which layer of thermal insulation is needed specifically in your case.

Houses built from cinder blocks, unlike their wooden and brick counterparts, need additional insulation outside. The thermal conductivity of a cinder block varies between 0.35-0.6 W/(m 0C), which means that to ensure normal temperature in the house in our harsh climate, it would be necessary to erect a building from cinder block slabs with a thickness of about 1.5- 2 meters, which is extremely unprofitable. That is why buildings made of cinder block slabs standard thickness additionally insulated from the outside.

Should you choose external or internal insulation? Professional builders recommend insulating a cinder block house from the outside, since after laying the thermal insulation layer inside the room, the dew point, located between the coolant and the wall, shifts. As a result, moisture will accumulate on the walls, facilitating the spread of moldy fungi.

Another disadvantage of internal insulation is that the thermal insulation material “steals” centimeters of room area. That is why it is rational to insulate cinder block house just outside.

Materials

The most common materials for insulating cinder block buildings are:

• fiberglass and mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene.

Pros and cons of mineral wool and fiberglass

Both types of these materials are available in slabs and rolls. The performance and practical characteristics of mineral wool and fiberglass are almost identical. That is why both of these materials will be considered together.

The main advantage of these materials is their excellent thermal conductivity (about 0.041 W/(m 0C)) and sound insulation. Another indicator worth noting is fire resistance. Mineral wool and fiberglass practically do not burn and spontaneously extinguish in the absence of open fire.

The structure of fiberglass and mineral wool allows these materials to be laid even on uneven surfaces.

Perhaps, the only drawback of these materials is that after getting wet they almost completely lose their thermal insulation and sound insulation properties.

Extruded polystyrene foam

What is the difference between expanded polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam? The popular name for extruded polystyrene foam is polystyrene foam. It has a rather denser structure than expanded polystyrene. It also practically does not absorb moisture. However, the cost of polystyrene foam is higher.

The materials are produced in the form of slabs (expanded polystyrene in rolls is much less common).

Main advantages:

• good thermal conductivity - 0.039 W/(m 0C);
• ease of installation;
• fire resistance - some types do not support the combustion process at all.

A significant disadvantage of polystyrene foam boards is the low level of sound insulation.

Mineral wool insulation scheme

Mineral wool or fiberglass should only be laid on a previously primed surface. The best option in terms of speed is the so-called “wet” installation method.

First you need to prepare the surface - remove existing defects (cracks, chips) and prime it. You also need to build a base that will serve as a support for the first base row.

The next step is preparing the glue. IN in this case It is important to follow the instructions on the package. After the glue is prepared, you can begin installing the insulation.

Please note: glue is needed even layer Apply to the insulation using a spatula, and not to the wall! During the installation process, you also need to ensure that there are no gaps between the plates.

Thermal insulation is glued in a checkerboard pattern, like brickwork. Using a building level, we check the evenness of the masonry. Thermal insulation sheets are additionally secured to the wall using umbrella dowels. After the mineral wool has covered the entire wall, you need to lay a layer of glue, drowning the reinforcing mesh into it.

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam

Laying foam plastic is carried out in almost the same way as installing mineral wool.

The first stage is surface preparation. Elimination of defects and application of primer. Next, after preparing the adhesive solution, we proceed to installing the insulation sheets.

Important: there should be no gaps or cracks between the plates!

After laying the insulation boards on top of them, you need to fix the reinforcing mesh. Next, this entire cake is carefully primed and puttied, after which you can proceed to the final stage - applying a decorative coating.

When a house is insulated from the inside, the interior space of the room is significantly reduced. However, this fact is not critical for completely abandoning insulation and suffering from low temperatures outside the window or throwing funds for heating the house down the chimney.

Before answering the question of how to properly insulate a cinder block house from the inside, you need to understand the materials that are offered construction stores. Today the market offers insulation based on foam plastic and mineral wool. Installation of both one and the other does not require any specific skills from the performer.

We insulate a cinder block house with polystyrene foam

The difficulty of installing this material lies in the preliminary alignment of the walls on which they will be glued. In the case of a brick wall, plastering and puttying will be required. Wallpaper must be removed from the walls and paint residues must be removed.

Every owner of an apartment or house undoubtedly has a dominant desire to preserve the final result for as long as possible. That is why the use of a waterproofing underlay, even inside the house, should be indispensable. For what? In order to thus prevent the accumulation of condensate that destroys the foam.

To work you will need:

• five-centimeter foam;
• comb or notched spatula;
• glue (usually Ceresit).

Installation work is extremely simple. Insulation plates purchased from a building materials store are attached to the prepared wall using diluted glue. Then they are tapped thoroughly to remove any possible air bubbles from under them. In this matter, an important point is to apply the adhesive mixture directly to the wall and in no case to the foam sheets themselves. They should always be dry.

Next, for optimal insulation of the house, all cracks should be treated and loose fits material polyurethane foam. This must be done in order to isolate the glued layer from changes in humidity in the room.

In the process of fastening foam boards, you can also use special fastening dowels. However, an adhesive solution will be sufficient. The final step will be front finishing walls and possible painting.

Quite a fast and practical way. Its most important advantage is the elimination of the stage of preliminary leveling of walls. The whole point is that in a specially created metal structure mineral wool slabs are installed. Then, step by step, the entire frame is covered with plasterboard slabs, which will give your wall a perfectly flat surface.

So, a special structure is assembled from metal or wooden profiles - lathing. Plasterboard slabs are installed on it. Next, the joints are puttied and the wall is either painted or wallpaper is applied to it.

VIDEO: Insulation of internal walls. Installation of insulation on the wall.

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Most often, the developer thinks about thermal insulation of a house made of cinder blocks with his own hands after the object is erected. This is largely due to the fact that cinder blocks vary greatly in their thermal conductivity.

This indicator can be in the range of 0.35-0.6 W/(m K). Thus, it is very difficult to determine in advance how well cinder blocks can insulate the interior space.

Why does a cinder block house need insulation?

If we start from building codes, reflected in SNiP 02/23/2003, the normal thickness of walls made of cinder blocks can be considered only 1.5-2 m. But such thick walls are extremely expensive. Suffice it to say that for such a structure it will be necessary to build a massive and expensive foundation.

In order for the walls of a house made of cinder blocks to retain heat in the home, the best option would be to perform thermal insulation. Then you will be able to save money, provide conditions for a pleasant microclimate, and also make the house more aesthetically pleasing.

From which side should a cinder block house be insulated?

There are two fundamentally different options thermal insulation of the walls of a cinder block house. If you place insulation with inside, there will be a great danger of condensation on the walls. This is due to the fact that the dew point will be between the insulation and the wall. As a result, the risk of condensation will increase significantly.

When placing insulation on the outside of a cinder block house, you will notice several advantages at once. With this method, there is a saving of usable space, a reduction in the risk of condensation, and an improvement in the appearance of the building. Usually the insulation is covered with a finishing cladding, which also protects the walls of the building. It follows from this that external insulation is more suitable.

How to insulate a cinder block house

There is a wide range of thermal insulation materials suitable for protecting cinder block house by cold. External thermal insulation can be made with mineral wool, glass wool, expanded polystyrene or penoplex. Each of these materials deserves some attention.

1. Mineral wool and glass wool

Both of these thermal insulation materials are available in sheets or rolls. Glass wool and mineral wool are similar in their qualities, so they can be considered together. The most serious advantage of these insulation materials is considered to be low thermal conductivity, which is at the level of 0.041 W/(m K). High noise insulation is also a plus. The increased fire resistance of mineral and glass wool also benefits them.

But such insulation also has disadvantages. The most significant is low moisture resistance. The thermal insulation capabilities of materials deteriorate if they get wet. The process of laying mineral and glass wool is associated with great difficulties. And due to the fact that insulation materials can clump into clumps, their density over a large working area turns out to be different.

2. Expanded polystyrene and penoplex

There are differences between these insulation materials, although they are not too fundamental. Expanded polystyrene is called ordinary foam. It is produced in thick slabs. Penoplex is more durable and thinner with similar thermal insulation capabilities. The materials are not afraid of moisture and remain in excellent condition for a long time. But penoplex is more expensive than polystyrene foam.

The main advantages of penoplex are considered to be low thermal conductivity, amounting to 0.039 W/(m K), the ability to easily resist moisture, and ease of installation. There are options for expanded polystyrene or penoplex, which are fire resistant.

However, there are types of insulation on the market that easily catch fire. Another disadvantage is the low sound insulation of materials. The cheapest polystyrene foam can quickly disintegrate into granules and deteriorate from exposure chemical substances and can be eaten by rodents and insects.

How to install insulation on cinder block walls?

Depending on which thermal insulation material is chosen, the operating technology will vary. The specifics of handling each of the above-mentioned thermal insulation materials should be looked at separately.

How to work with mineral wool

Preparatory measures when using mineral wool consist of covering cinder block walls with a primer and plastering. Gaps and cracks must be completely sealed with plaster. There are several options for laying mineral wool. The simplest is the so-called “wet” method. It's worth taking it apart.

1. When the surface is completely prepared, a support for the first row is installed on the base thermal insulation material. Thanks to it, you can protect the thermal insulation from rodents.

2. Preparation of the adhesive solution. It is better to use moisture-resistant mastic, which, after preparation, is applied to mineral wool slabs. Next, the insulation is applied to the surface of the cinder block wall. It is necessary to try to make the gaps between adjacent slabs minimal. If they are noticeable, an adhesive solution should be placed in them.

3. The fixed thermal insulation layer is covered with glue. A reinforced mesh is placed on it, which is additionally treated with an adhesive compound and left for a day to dry completely.

Having completed such work, the owner can begin decorative finishing. It uses plaster or putty, which is then painted in the desired color.

How to work with polystyrene foam

There are no fundamental differences when working with mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. The sequence of events here is approximately the same as in the previous case. The wet method of fixing polystyrene foam to the surface of cinder blocks looks like this.

1. Preparatory work. Cinder block walls must be thoroughly cleaned, and any cracks present in them must be plastered. Next, the working base is primed and left to dry.

2. As in the previous case, the prepared adhesive solution is applied to the foam. Expanded polystyrene sheets should be placed on the surface of foam block walls with bandaging. Any gaps are filled with polyurethane foam or adhesive composition.

3. When the foam is secured over the entire area, it can be additionally secured with dowels. Then the insulation layer is primed and covered reinforced mesh. To secure it you need to use a large amount of glue.

After completing such work, the owner can proceed to plastering the facade. Plaster gives cinder block walls better thermal insulation and makes them aesthetically pleasing.

By responsibly carrying out the described activities, the owner will receive excellent result. A cinder block house will be well protected from the cold. You don’t need to spend a lot of effort and money for this.

Video. How to insulate a cinder block house

Regardless of what material the house is made of, it always requires insulation. Therefore, taking into account the material of construction, one or another insulation material should be selected. To insulate a cinder block house, you must first decide on possible options, their installation technique and, of course, cost.

Here it should be taken into account that when coming from the inside, the dew point will move and stop between the wall and the coolant. As a result, moisture will appear on the surface, which will inevitably lead to fungus. And this, in turn, has a detrimental effect on the quality of thermal insulation of the house, not to mention the loss of usable space inside.

Therefore, by insulating the house from the outside, all these negative aspects are avoided. In many cases, experts note that this method is even better compared to work on internal walls.

Main types of insulation

Today there are two optimal options: mineral wool (or glass wool) and polystyrene foam. Each of these materials has its own positive and negative qualities.

Mineral wool is produced either in rolls or sheets. The material has the following positive aspects:

• the thermal conductivity indicator has a value of 0.041 W/(m°C), this characteristic may vary depending on the density of the material itself, but such a change will be insignificant;
• good sound insulation, here the density is of significant importance;
• fire resistance: if a fire occurs, then in the absence of open fire the material will quickly extinguish;
• ease of fastening: the structure of mineral wool makes it easy to handle uneven surfaces, besides, it is easy for her to eliminate voids.

But this material also has disadvantages:

• poor moisture insulation: if such cotton wool gets wet, the thermal insulation will deteriorate by 2 times;
• the installation technology itself has more complex features;
• rolls tend to roll, this factor is influenced by the dishonesty of contractors or improper self-insulation cinder block walls.

Polystyrene foam (extruded polystyrene foam), unlike the first option, is more dense in structure, which makes it more durable. The level of moisture absorption is approximately 10 times lower than that of mineral wool. But all qualities are significantly reflected in the price of the material.

Polystyrene foam can be presented in the form of slabs, less often in rolls. From positive points Such material can be noted as follows:

• good resistance to moisture: even if water gets on the surface, the walls will not lose their thermal insulation properties;
• applicable on flat areas, while covering them well;
• depending on the use of certain brands, it may have good fire resistance, therefore, like mineral wool, if there is no open fire near the source, this material will fade quickly.

Among the negative aspects, the following characteristics should be highlighted:

• low level of sound insulation;
• some types of foam plastic absolutely do not tolerate fire, therefore, when insulating the walls of a house, you should carefully select the brand, otherwise during a fire it can emit acrid smoke and support the fire itself;
• This material of the usual type has a rather fragile structure, this, in turn, leads to certain installation problems.

There is an opinion that rodents like this material. But it is not so. Rodents do not eat polystyrene foam, but they make their home in it, since it is warm enough.

Return to contents

How to insulate a cinder block house from the outside with mineral wool

Before you start insulating the walls, you should prepare them.

To do this, they are coated with a primer. If a cinder block house is already completely ready, and all that remains is to insulate the walls, then a method called wet laying is suitable.

In order to insulate a house, you need to follow these steps:

1. Prepare the surface of the cinder block wall. It is cleaned of dirt, after which the cracks are removed by plastering and primed. At the same stage, you should take care of the base, which will serve as a support for the first row.
2. Next, an adhesive solution is prepared onto which the insulation will be attached to the walls of the house. This process can be found on the product label. After the glue is ready, it is applied to the surface of the material, and then it is pressed against the wall. At this stage there is very important point: It is best to overlap the masonry to avoid the formation of gaps between the slabs. Otherwise, you will have to take care to fill the cracks tightly.
3. After the cinder block house is covered with material, you should take care of the reinforcing mesh. It is made from fiberglass. To attach it to the wall, it must be coated with glue and allowed time to dry completely (24 hours).
4. The final stage of such work is the application of primer paint to the walls or plaster. In the latter case, both ordinary and decorative putty are used.

In general, there is nothing complicated about insulation. Everything is elementary and simple.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

A dwelling made of cinder blocks, in its appearance and strength, strongly resembles the castle of a medieval baron or duke. And in order to convert it into a cozy and energy-efficient country residence, you need to know how to insulate a cinder block house.

Today I want to tell you how to insulate such a building with your own hands. And do this with minimal costs effort, money and time.

Features of thermal insulation of cinder block buildings

Cinder block walls are highly durable and durable. Therefore, a house built from this material will resist external negative factors well and have a long service life.

However, if we consider a cinder block from the point of view of thermal insulation properties, then its thermal conductivity coefficient will not be enough to effectively retain heat indoors and protect rooms from the summer heat.

According to SNiP number 23-02-2003, in order to ensure a comfortable microclimate for living, it is necessary to erect cinder block walls with a thickness of 150 to 200 cm (depending on the region of the Russian Federation).

Naturally, enclosing structures of such thickness will have many disadvantages:

• the estimated cost of construction increases;
• the weight of the house increases, which forces you to make a stronger foundation;
• the appearance of the house deteriorates (window and door openings look especially strange).

The way out of this situation is quite simple - insulate the wall made of cinder blocks using some kind of heat-insulating material. I’ll talk about choosing the latter a little later, but now is the time to decide on which side the insulation needs to be installed - from the inside or the outside.

I’ll answer right away that I prefer to insulate a cinder block wall from the outside, since this method has several important, in my opinion, advantages:

1. Wall made of cinder blocks in contact with warm air rooms, when heated, can accumulate thermal energy, and then, when external conditions change, give it away. Consequently, the thermal inertia of the home increases and during short-term frosts there is no need for additional heating.
2. Insulation installed outside protects the cinder block from temperature fluctuations. The material will not constantly experience successive cycles of freezing and thawing, which has a positive effect on its service life.
3. The outer thermal insulation layer shifts the dew point so that moisture does not condense inside the wall. Excess water vapor collects on the surface of the material and evaporates.
4. Insulation protected by external decorative material(cladding or plaster) additionally prevents damage to enclosing structures as a result of exposure to external destructive natural factors (snow, rain, ultraviolet radiation, frost, and so on).
5. An insulating layer installed on the outer surface of cinder block walls does not reduce the usable area of ​​the rooms.

I can give many more similar reasons, but I think that the ones listed above are enough for you to come to the same opinion as me regarding the choice of location for installing insulating material.

In the meantime, I will move on to choosing a suitable heat insulator.

Choice of insulation

So, we have decided where to install the heat insulator. Now let’s decide how to insulate a cinder block house from the outside. I will not list all possible options now, as this will take a lot of time. I will only say that in the case I am describing, I prefer polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam to all of them.

This material has many positive properties, which I described in the table below:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	Expanded polystyrene block is the most warm material among all the popular insulation materials on the market. For effective thermal insulation For cinder block walls, it is enough to glue a layer of foam plastic no more than 10 cm thick.
High strength	Insulation, having low density, well tolerated external loads(strength at 10% compression is 80 kPa), therefore the heat-insulating layer can withstand plastering and is not damaged by external mechanical influence.
Hygroscopicity	Polystyrene foam absorbs no more than 4% of liquid from its own volume, so thermal insulation is not required additional protection using waterproofing membranes.
Antiseptic	The surface of expanded polystyrene is not subject to biocorrosion even if it is not treated with fungicides. Moreover, this property is maintained throughout the entire service life.
Light weight	The insulating layer of polystyrene foam weighs little, so it does not put additional stress on load-bearing walls buildings and the foundation that supports them.
Availability	The price of construction polystyrene foam for insulation is lower than the cost of other popular insulation materials. The cinder block thermal insulation technology itself is no less affordable in terms of cost.
Easy to install	You can install the insulation yourself, even if you do not have great experience work. Instructions describing in detail all stages of work are presented below.

For work, I recommend using polystyrene foam boards PSB-S-25. The density of the material is 25 kg per cubic meter, thickness 10 cm, width 50 cm, length 100 cm. The letter C indicates the presence of fire-fighting additives in the insulation. You can choose the foam manufacturer to suit your taste.

Materials and tools used

The insulation technology I have chosen and described provides that in addition to polystyrene foam, other materials will be used:

1. Primer for pre-treatment of the base. It improves the adhesion of wall blocks, removes dust from them and reduces the consumption of the adhesive mixture used to secure the polystyrene foam blocks.
2. Adhesive for gluing polystyrene foam. With its help, insulation boards are attached and their surface reinforcement is performed.
3. Fiberglass mesh for reinforcement. Remember to make sure you are purchasing mesh that is designed for external (not internal) reinforcement.
4. Profiles for reinforcement and decoration. It's about about plastic perforated corners, with the help of which the outer corners of the insulating layer and window slopes are strengthened. I will also use the plastic grooves that decorate the front of the house.
5. Starting profile. A perforated galvanized part on which a polystyrene foam thermal insulation layer rests. Mounted at the bottom of the wall.
6. Umbrella dowels. Driven-type parts with a plastic core. I don't like to use dowels with screws, since the metal part can lead to the formation of a cold bridge in the area being fixed.
7. Decorative facade plaster. Necessary for finishing the facades of a cinder block house.

Now about the tools. You definitely need a hammer drill to drill holes for the dowels, as well as a full set of plastering tools (trowels, floats, rules, etc.).

Installation technology

Now let's look at how to insulate a cinder block house from the outside. I divided all the work into several steps, which are depicted in the diagram below:

However, each of these steps consists of many sequential stages, which I will try to describe in as much detail and detail as possible.

Step 1 - Preparing the Walls

1. Leveling the surface cinder block masonry. It is necessary to remove protruding parts and seal cavities with cracks:
   • Using a chisel or hammer drill, remove pieces of the mortar that was used to lay the cinder block.
   • Then you need to fill the through seams in the cinder block masonry with mounting mortar.
   • Large chips in wall blocks must also be leveled flush with the surface using a cement repair compound.
   • If significant defects are found (cracks, distortions), it is necessary to get rid of them before installing the heat-insulating layer.

1. I clean the surface of cinder block walls from dust and debris. To do this, you can use a regular brush. If you do not clean the walls, difficulties may arise during the subsequent priming of the enclosing structures.

1. Prime the surface of the walls with a penetrating primer. To work in the case I am describing, I used the MajsterGrunt composition. The work is performed in the following sequence.
   • First, pour the primer into the bucket, then dilute it clean water in a ratio of 1 to 1. I pre-treat the walls with this solution to reduce the absorbency of the surface.

• I apply the first layer to the walls of the home using a sprayer. Thus, the time for processing cinder block masonry is significantly reduced. After this, you need to give the primer 2-3 hours to partially dry.
• Then I prime the walls a second time using a paintbrush, with which I carefully rub the liquid into the cinder block. Deep penetrating improves wall adhesion, evens out the absorption capacity of slag blocks, strengthens the base and removes dust from the wall.

1. I mount a starting profile on which the entire insulating layer will rest. It is a perforated galvanized metal piece that is installed at the junction of the base and the walls of the house and supports the polystyrene foam during its gluing. Another purpose of the strip is to protect the insulating layer from damage by rodents. It is installed as follows:
   • Using a laser or water level, a strictly horizontal line is drawn around the entire house along the wall, which will serve as a guide for installing the starting profile for the insulation.
   • The profile is attached to the wall with screws and dowels, which are inserted into pre-drilled holes.

• There is no need to join adjacent parts closely. There should be a gap of 2-3 mm wide between the individual elements of the starting profile to compensate for possible thermal expansion of the metal.
• After installation, I recommend once again checking the correct installation of the part using a long water level.

At this point, the preparation of cinder block walls for subsequent insulation can be considered complete. And it’s time to move on to gluing polystyrene foam.

Step 2 - Installing Thermal Insulation

I'm starting to install thermal insulation. The instructions for carrying out the work are as follows:

1. I am preparing the adhesive composition. The correctness of all subsequent work depends on how correctly this seemingly insignificant stage is performed:
   • To glue polystyrene foam in the case I am describing, I will use dry mortar Styrolep K, which can be used to bond and reinforce foam inside and outside a building.

• To prepare the solution, you need to pour a certain amount of water into a bucket (in my case, 6 liters), then pour the powder from the bag into it and mix it using a low-speed drill with a mixer.
• As soon as the solution becomes homogeneous, you need to leave it alone for 5 minutes so that various additives are activated, improving its quality and performance properties. After this time, the mass should be mixed again.

1. I apply glue to sheets of polystyrene foam. This process significantly affects the reliability of the installation of insulation boards. Therefore, I will talk about the process of applying glue to insulation in more detail:
   • The finished adhesive composition is applied to the edge of the polystyrene foam board using a trowel. In this case, you need to work so that the solution does not get on the end of the part (the place that will form the seam).
   • After this, 3 slides of glue are placed in the middle of the insulation board so that after its distribution during gluing, more than 40% of the surface of the foam is covered.

1. I glue the insulation panels to the block wall. The essence of the process, I think, is clear without much explanation. I’d rather dwell on those nuances that are not obvious to a novice master:
   • When gluing the first row, it should be rested on the starting profile, carefully monitoring the correct installation (vertically and horizontally). All subsequent rows rest on the first, so if you glue the first insulation belt crookedly, the rest will also be installed incorrectly.

• The seams of the top row should not coincide with the seams of the bottom, but should be staggered with an offset relative to each other by a distance of at least 15 cm.

• When joining sheets, you must ensure that they fit together as tightly as possible. If necessary, the end of the insulation can be slightly cleaned with a polystyrene float or coarse-grained float sandpaper. Otherwise, there is a danger of cold bridges appearing, reducing the energy efficiency of the home.
• When gluing expanded polystyrene boards in the area of ​​windows, the sheets must be positioned so that the seams of the insulating layer are not a continuation of the slope of the window opening. To do this, you need to cut out L-shaped parts from polystyrene foam and glue them to the corners of the window.

• At the corners of the building, thermal insulation slabs are installed using the gearing method. This means that the slab of the top layer should hang over the slab of the bottom and so on in order until the very top. Moreover, the part of the slab that protrudes beyond the cinder block wall should not be larger than the area on which the glue is applied. It's difficult to describe in words, but you can clearly see everything in the illustration.

• After 12 hours (the time for the adhesive to partially harden), it is necessary to seal the seams between the foam sheets using polyurethane foam adhesive (for example, Ceresit). You need to seal the seams using a gun so that the foam fills the entire joint space - from the cinder block wall to the surface of the polystyrene foam.

• After the foam has hardened, it is necessary to cut off the excess sealing compound flush with the surface, and then finally clean the surface of the insulating layer with a float. It is necessary to ensure that there are no protrusions or irregularities on the foam (especially in the area of ​​the seams).

1. Additionally, I secure the polystyrene foam to the cinder block wall using dowels. Dowels can only be used on surfaces that experience increased wind load. It is mandatory to use dowels on buildings with a weakened foundation or with walls more than 12 meters in height. The operating rules are as follows:
   • The installation of dowels must begin 72 hours after gluing the polystyrene foam boards.
   • The consumption of dowels should be 4 pieces per square meter of insulated surface in the central part of the wall and 6 pieces near corners and window openings.
   • Before fastening, a hole is drilled in the polystyrene foam with a special drill with a round disk, which makes a recess in the surface sufficient to place the dowel head there.
   • After this, a dowel is inserted inside into which a plastic core is hammered. In this case, the dowel head must be recessed into the surface of the polystyrene foam.
   • Then the hole is closed with a circle of foam. It all looks like this:

By following the tips given above, you can easily paste cinder block walls with sheets of expanded polystyrene. After which you can safely proceed to reinforcing the insulation layer and final decorative finishing.

Step 3 - Reinforcement and finishing

For reinforcement you will need glue, which I used to glue the foam, fiberglass mesh for outdoor work and a variety of profiles. However, I’ll tell you about everything in order.

1. I reinforce external corners building. For this purpose, special perforated profiles with fiberglass mesh attached along the edges are used. The strengthening process is carried out in the following order:
   • I measure the corner of the building using a level, after which I cut off all the protruding parts of the polystyrene foam boards that were not removed during the gluing process.

• After trimming, I clean the surface again using a perforated metal float or coarse sandpaper.
• I coat the corner of the building glue mixture. I apply a layer 1 cm thick and 10-15 cm wide. Here you can not be afraid to overdo it with glue, since its excess will be removed through the perforation in the corner.
• I apply the corner profile to the smeared area, then press it deep into the glue and press it firmly against the polystyrene foam surface.

• I remove excess glue from the profile, and press the mesh attached to it into the glue, after which I smooth the solution onto the wall with a trowel.

1. I reinforce window and door openings. These are sections of walls that are subject to increased loads during operation. Therefore, increased attention must be paid to strengthening them. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • I install gussets made of fiberglass mesh at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the horizontal at the corners of the window opening on the surface of the walls. To do this, you need to coat a section of the wall with a reinforcing mixture, attach a piece of mesh to it, then press it into the solution with a trowel and smooth the surface.

• I glue self-adhesive reinforcing profiles with the mesh already attached to the window blocks. To do this, you must proceed according to the following scheme:
  • Clear window unit from dust and debris to ensure a tight fit of the parts to each other.
  • Degrease the surface of the window block with an alcohol-containing solution
  • Remove the protective tape and press the part firmly against the window. This can be done only once. If you glue it unevenly, you will have to replace the part with a new one.
  • Coat the surface window slope adhesive composition, then attach the mesh from the profile to them, and then use a trowel to deepen it into the glue so that the fiberglass does not rise above the surface of the glue.

• I strengthen the corners of window and doorways using perforated profiles. The process is described in detail in paragraph 1, so I will not repeat it.

1. Installing decorative elements. We are talking about specialized profiles in the shape of the letter P, which are mounted in a foam layer and serve as facade decoration. They are fixed as follows:
   • Using a building level, I draw a strictly horizontal line on the wall, which will serve as a guide for further cutting out a groove in the polystyrene foam.
   • I'm cutting out a groove. For this I used special device, but it can be easily replaced with the usual one stationery knife or others suitable tool. Although in the latter case the labor intensity of the process will increase slightly. I should immediately note that if the decorative profile passes through the corner of the building, then it must be secured before gluing the corner reinforcing part (point 1)

• Inside the groove I insert a special aluminum or plastic profile. To connect parts to each other and arrange angular turns, shaped parts are used. The parts are fixed to polystyrene foam using an adhesive solution.

1. I reinforce the entire surface of the building walls. For this I use fiberglass mesh for exterior work, which prevents the destruction of the decorative layer due to temperature fluctuations of the insulating layer and external mechanical influences. The work flow is as follows:
   • I clean the surface of the polystyrene foam from dust and foam granules that stuck to the walls during the installation of thermal insulation boards.
   • I cover the entire surface of the polystyrene foam with the reinforcing compound Styrolep Z, and then spread it evenly using a notched spatula. The solution must be applied starting from the top of the wall in strips, the width of which is equal to the width of the reinforcing mesh used.

• I apply a strip of mesh to the wall, and then press it into the mortar using a plaster float. On internal corners insulation layer and at the junction of adjacent mesh elements, it must be positioned so that an overlap of 10 cm wide is formed. During work, I recommend that you be especially careful not to damage the fiberglass with the working part of the plaster float.

• After pressing the mesh into the reinforcement compound on top, I apply another layer of mortar and smooth it so that the fiberglass mesh is not visible on the wall surface.

1. I prime the walls before applying decorative plaster. This must be done after the reinforcing layer on the insulation has completely dried. I selected the primer in such a way that its color was as close as possible to the shade of the future façade plaster. Priming the reinforcing layer is necessary to improve surface adhesion, ensure uniform setting of the plaster and level the absorbency of the walls.

1. I am completing the final decorative treatment walls For this I took silicone facade plaster"lamb" type trademark MajsterTynk. Its features - high vapor permeability, resistance to destructive external phenomena and good antiseptic properties.

The process of plastering facades is described in detail in other articles on this site, so I will not dwell on it in detail. I'd better show you the house decorative finishing which was almost finished. Only small details remain.

Summary

In conclusion, I would like to note one more point regarding what and how to insulate: in addition to the expanded polystyrene discussed in this article, you can insulate a cinder block house with mineral wool. You can learn about this technology from the video in this article.

You can leave your questions and suggestions on the topic presented in this material in the comments below.

September 6, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

No matter what material the house is built from, the owner always tries to reduce the cost of heating and repairs. Great solution such problems installation of insulation.

It is especially important to carry out such measures as quickly as possible if the structure is made of material that does not retain heat well. Therefore, today we will look at the insulation of a cinder block house from the outside.

Qualified craftsmen advise insulating a cinder block house from the outside, since this option has many advantages:

1. Extends the service life of the main structure. External thermal insulation must be protected from external influences. The trim not only becomes a barrier to the insulation, but also to the cinder blocks.
2. Saves usable area in residential areas.
3. Protects against the formation of dew on the walls of the house, and therefore prevents the appearance of fungus or mold.
4. Allows you to save up to 70% of heat. Internal walls accumulate heat and release it back when the air temperature in the room drops.

Choice of insulation

Houses made of cinder blocks do not retain heat well, so either polystyrene foam (or its cousins) or mineral wool are chosen as insulation. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Styrofoam

If the question arises of how to insulate a cinder block house from the outside and spend a small amount, then it is better to use it. The material has excellent specifications, but a few shortcomings are a bit of a concern. Therefore, it is important to study all the positive and negative facts before choosing polystyrene foam for insulation.

Advantages:

1. The smallest thermal conductivity coefficient.
2. Light weight, which makes it easy to transport and install the material yourself.
3. Low moisture absorption rate. Even if the foam is completely immersed in water, it can absorb only 4% of its own weight, and this is an excellent indicator.
4. The material is not affected by mold, fungi, or insects.
5. Long service life. If the foam is reliably protected from external influences, it can last up to 50 years.

Now let's look at the disadvantages:

1. The insulation does not allow steam to pass through. The effect of a thermos is created. Heat is retained inside the house both in winter and summer.
2. Low temperatures combined with a small amount moisture destroys what you made with your own hands.
3. Before starting installation, you need to level the base.
4. Toxicity when burning. But for cinder block walls this drawback is not so important. Polystyrene foam burns only in the presence of a constant source of fire. In this case, there are no components of the structure that could quickly ignite and burn for a long time.
5. Rodents love to make their homes in polystyrene foam.

Minvata

You can also insulate the house with mineral wool. Moreover, without unnecessary fears, you can choose any type of material offered and get good result. Qualified specialists recommend using this particular option for arranging thermal insulation for the walls of a cinder block house.

The main advantages of this insulation:

• Low thermal conductivity coefficient.
• Possibility to create additional sound insulation.
• Fire resistance.
• Can be mounted on walls with slight unevenness.
• Environmental friendliness.

The disadvantages include:

1. High moisture absorption coefficient. Mineral wool must be treated on both sides with water-repellent glue. Difficulty in installation.
2. If you lay and fasten mineral wool incorrectly, then in some places it may mat (shrink), which will lead to a decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Having become familiar with all the positive and negative aspects of using one or another insulation, each owner will choose the option that, in his opinion, is the most optimal.

Installation

Once selected suitable material The question arises: how to insulate a cinder block house from the outside? If a person is far from the construction business, then it is advisable to use the services of professional teams, but you can do everything yourself. The main thing is to strictly follow the chosen instructions.

Each insulation has its own technology for constructing a thermal insulation structure. Therefore, we will not consider a generalized picture, but will propose a work plan for each option separately.

Insulation using foam plastic

Any process starts with preparatory stage. It is definitely present when installing foam plastic.

1. Protruding elements are removed from the base. This may include excess mortar, fasteners and hanging structures(antennas, drainpipes).
2. If there are deep potholes, cracks, or broken pieces of cinder block, you should get rid of them. To do this, the surface is plastered.
3. When the layer of plaster has dried, you need to apply primer. Such measures will help increase adhesion (adhesion of the adhesive solution and the base) and protect the wall from mold.

Only after the primer has completely dried can you begin installing the foam.

• The first step is to install a starting galvanized or stainless steel profile. It serves as a support for the entire structure. It is necessary to correct the horizontal. A building level is suitable for this. If there is even the slightest distortion, it can cause deformation and even collapse of the insulated and finished facade. The profile is attached to dowel nails.
• Next, prepare an adhesive solution that is suitable for outdoor use and for foam plastic. If you buy the first one you come across and do not read the instructions, then the consequence of such a rash step may be a poor-quality facade that will peel off from the cinder block walls. Before cooking, be sure to read the instructions; manufacturers indicate the exact quantities of ingredients.
• The glue is applied in small blots at the corners of the foam and in the center.
• The first insulation board is laid with its lower edge in profile towards the lower left corner of the building. It is necessary to press the element a little and move it from side to side so that there are no voids left.
• The next sheet of material is coated with glue in the same way, only the composition is also applied to the end part. Press the part tightly against the first one so that there are no gaps or cracks between them.
• The second row is laid so that the joints do not coincide. To do this, the slab is shifted a third or half to the side. In the same way, insulation is carried out over the entire area.
• After the glue has dried, you also need to fix the foam mechanically. This will make the structure more reliable. You will need dowels with a wide head. The approximate number of fasteners is calculated as follows: 5 pieces are needed for one slab.
• Now you can move on to the façade cladding.

Mineral wool

The installation process of this insulation is a little more complicated, but it all starts with preparation. The base is cleaned of stains, dust, dirt, and protruding elements. It is not necessary to plaster the surface; it is enough to seal deep cracks and treat the walls with primer.

Then they install metallic profile, to create support. Next, prepare the adhesive solution according to the instructions indicated on the package. Glue is applied thin layer on the entire surface of the slab (creates a water-repellent layer), and then make several small blots in the corners.

The material is pressed tightly against the wall. There should be no joints or gaps. It is also not advisable to do it with a whip. They start doing everything from the bottom left corner. The slabs are glued according to the principle of brickwork.

After the mineral wool has completely covered the walls, you need to glue the reinforcing mesh. The same adhesive solution is applied to the surface of the slabs and fiberglass is embedded in them, smoothing it with a spatula. After this layer has dried, you can begin decorating.