At first glance, the technology of using solvent for car paint does not pose any difficulties. In the instructions, the manufacturer indicates ratios, recommendations and precise instructions - you can make a mistake here through negligence and nothing more. However, not every instruction printed on paper is the best solution, and writing it is stimulated not only by the desire to play it safe, but also by the commercial component: most manufacturers recommend using their company’s products, i.e. an expensive and reliable solvent. Meanwhile, understanding the principle of dilution of enamels, the degree and quality of its influence on the result, allows most expensive products to be replaced with domestic serialized products.
Principle of using solvents
The result of painting is a hard coating that protects the metal not only from corrosion, but also from minor mechanical damage. However, car enamel is supplied in liquid form, and in order to apply it to the surface it must also be diluted. After applying car paint to the surface, there is no longer a need for a solvent, i.e. it should evaporate. Evaporation rate is the first parameter by which solvents can be classified:
- Fast - more often used in winter.
- Universal - designed for transitional seasons.
- Long (slow) - it is more logical to use when elevated temperature air.
The enamel concentration is adjusted by the manufacturer before the final packaging of the product. The reason lies in the safety net and the need to keep some substances in the composition active before starting work. The degree of enamel concentration is indicated by the abbreviation in the name: LS (low-filled enamels - Low Solid), HD and HS, MS, UHS, VHS (highly filled enamels - Very High Solid), etc. Better fullness gives better transfer of the spray gun to the surface. The viscosity of the substances is approximately the same, but the concentration of polymers is different, and therefore the volatility is also different - strong dilution of LS systems is not allowed.
Further dilution depends on what diluent the manufacturer used. Correctly dilute the substance with a suitable chemical composition, and even better - the same thing. Much depends on the base: dilute acrylic enamel And acrylic lacquer possible in the same way. The maximum concentrations and the recommended composition for them are the same, because acrylic varnish is acrylic without a coloring pigment.
Diluting paint with solvent
The main components of the standard solvent are toluene, white spirit, solvent, xylene, butyl acetate, nefras, etc. The difference between most diluent compositions lies in the ratio. For example, the most popular composition is No. 646, the main advantage and disadvantage of which is its aggressiveness, which leads not only to dilution of the base, but changes its composition. It must be used with great care, although 646 is quite suitable for acrylic and most primers. Despite the exact composition, the original purity of the substances used in its manufacture may vary, so most painters use 646 only for washing guns, where its aggressiveness is put to good use.
It is not possible to dilute acrylic enamel with white spirit, but it is excellent for dissolving slate, rubber-bitumen and ordinary mastics. However, the main area of application of this substance is degreasing surfaces, since domestic white spirit contains a large amount of impurities that precipitate after just a year of standing on the shelf. You can replace it with artistic white spirit.
The 647th solvent can be used to dilute nitrovarnish and nitroenamel intended for application to cars. It also needs to be used with extreme caution due to its aggressive composition. No. 650 has a slightly softer composition, the use of which is recommended when working with most enamels and varnishes.
It is recommended to dilute alkyd enamels with a multicomponent solvent R-4, consisting of a mixture of toluene, butyl acetate and acetone. It can also be used with enamels based on chlorinated polymers (CS and CV). The latter can be diluted with pure toluene and xylene.
Polar and non-polar solvents
Conventionally, in modern products two classes of substances can be distinguished: dissolving and diluting. The terminology is quite vague, but the difference between the substances used to obtain the operating viscosity can be significant. Before purchasing materials, you should familiarize yourself with the composition of the enamel and solvent. The substances in them must have the same polarity, since polar and non-polar materials interact with each other in a worse way. The most correct method of dilution is dilution with a substance already used by the manufacturer (which is why it is recommended to use products from the same manufacturer for dilution).
Polar solvents are all alcohols, ketones, and substances that contain oxygen in their molecular composition, such as water. Kerosene, white spirit and hydrocarbon compounds are non-polar substances. Therefore, paint diluted with water ( water-based paint, water-soluble acrylic), can be diluted with any ethers and alcohol, however, white spirit, which is a non-polar substance, will be rejected. The difference between alcohol (which necessarily contains hydroxyls) and white spirit (nefras - a mixture of hydrocarbons) is huge and they cannot be replaced with each other.
Most enamels can be diluted with benzenes, oils, etc. Xylenes have variable polarity and can work with substances of different polarities. But acetone can only be used with other polar substances - it will conflict with classic enamels.
Proper paint dilution
The ratio of diluent to colorant is indicated on each can. For example, if there is an activator in the system, it is correct not to dilute the acrylic too much, but only add a small amount of diluent necessary for ease of application. Towards ready-made composition this is no more than 10-15% of the volume. You can replace the acrylic solvent with P-12.
You need to control the viscosity with a viscometer according to the specified data, but properly diluted enamel is the one that adheres better. This moment can be determined by eye as follows: if the paint flows, it is diluted too much, if it drips, it is diluted normally. The best control is a test stain, i.e. a small test after mixing the hardener and adding solvent. There is no single instruction, each spray gun has its own characteristics: it should be applied in continuous dense layers (drops), drying already on the surface, easily dissolving into each other. For the test, you can add the solvent directly into the spray gun glass and note the result.
Viscosity is directly related to temperature and saturation of air with water vapor. Before you start mixing, you need to have data on the air temperature in the chamber: if °C deviates by 4-6 degrees from room temperature, the solution needs to be diluted more. In addition, it should be taken into account that drying of the enamel begins immediately after contact with air, i.e. its viscosity varies from layer to layer: if the temperature is high and the work is slow, you will have to add a solvent to the finished paint.
When painting a car, especially yourself, you need to know many nuances. First of all, attention should be paid to the choice of paint and its preparation for the procedure. Most of them are not applied in their original condition; for a better effect, a solvent for automobile paints is used. It is often used for dilution, since special diluents act slightly differently.
Manufacturers can sell a whole kit for repainting a car. For simple paint, for example acrylic, the product itself, a solvent (extractant) and a hardener will be available. All components are mixed. But the metallic effect coating is applied in two layers, so the set will consist of a base, a thinner for it, a hardener, a clear varnish and a varnish extractant.
The difference between a solvent and a special thinner is significant. Extractants are initially present in any paint and varnish materials. They affect their structure, diluting some resins and making them suitable for even and thin layer. Thinners are simply mixed with the composition and diluted to a certain viscosity.
As a result, a correctly selected mixture can best bring the dye to the correct state, since it is originally a component of it. The use of thinners will not give such a rosy effect. When choosing which solvents to use for car paint, you should consider the desired shade and application rules.
There are many categories of different car paints, but only four main varieties have become popular. They have different properties and have earned the love of car owners for various reasons.
Acrylics are two-component. Not only a thinner is mixed into them, but also a hardener. The color depth can be adjusted by the number of layers. They have the following advantages:
- They don't burn out.
- Slow aging process.
- Does not require varnishing.
- Easy to apply.
- You can choose a softer or harder option.
- Dries quickly.
- Withstands high temperatures.
- The shade does not depend much on the thickness of the layer.
It gives a soft matte color with a slight shimmer. It is not varnished on top. Acrylic is easy to polish to the desired finish.
Alkyd enamels are used much less frequently for painting cars; they require more effort to obtain a specific result. On top they are coated with an additional layer of transparent varnish and polished. The result is an excellent shiny coating with high performance properties. In them, solvent compositions are used rather to reduce the drying time, since the additive quickly evaporates. They cost more, but they also retain good appearance longer, prevent corrosion, and are resistant to aggressive environments.
Nitro paints have won the love of consumers with their “mirror” effect. They have an original glossy body with a metallic sheen. The main disadvantage of this material is its high toxicity during the procedure, so their use is gradually being reduced.
Their use requires careful cleaning of the surface, since they cannot be mixed with other types. But they dry quickly and are long-lasting.
Water-based, environmentally friendly. They have the following advantages:
- Can be applied to other coatings.
- Does not require surface leveling.
- Gives the surface an ideal condition.
- Gives more thorough painting.
- They do not repel water during application, so they do not swell.
- It lasts a long time.
It also has disadvantages - it takes a long time to dry and requires expensive equipment for proper application.
Which solvent to choose for acrylic composition
It is best to use a specialized acrylic solvent for automotive paints. Under no circumstances should you choose organic options, for example, 646,647 and so on. It is worth spending money and purchasing a specialized version from the same company, although it costs more. Then the effect will be much better.
If the budget does not allow for such expenses, then it can be replaced with a product similar in composition. Extractant 651 or universal - P12 are perfect. It has been used many times with acrylic varieties, so the result is guaranteed.
Which solvent to choose for alkyd versions
Alkyds are divided into two grades depending on the resins that are the base. They come in pentaphthalic (PF) and glypthalic (GF) types. For them, a volatile solvent for automobile paints is used - white spirit, gasoline, solvent, turpentine or a mixture thereof. You need to choose a specific option depending on the marking, but there is also a universal option - R-4.
What solvent to dilute nitroenamel
Nitro paint is best diluted with organic varieties. Suitable composition 646 transparent color, which includes alcohols, hydrocarbons and esters. When working with this solution, be sure to follow safety precautions, as it is highly flammable. A little bit of it is required; it is a fairly aggressive solvent for car paints. If the car owner does not want to take risks, then R-4 solvent can be used.
When selecting 646 composition, you need to be careful - there are GOST and TU markings. The TU option should only be adapted for cleaning surfaces and a spray gun. This is a cheap, aggressive mixture that will destroy the coating.
How to dilute water-based mixtures
For them, as the name suggests, solvents should not be used. Best options will be water or alcohol. You can try to choose a very mild composition based on alcohol or esters, but the result is unpredictable.
What solvent to use to remove old coating from a car?
The type of extractant is chosen depending on the type of coating, so as not to damage the base and quickly complete the task. For example, acrylic solvent for car paints is suitable for acrylic varieties. For the rest, you can choose the general universal P-4 or a more aggressive option - 646. You can also use white spirit or its analogues, but they are difficult to remove the varnish. It is better to choose them specifically for the coloring layer.
The entire process of replacing paintwork on a body requires attention to detail and safety rules. Most solvents can be life-threatening if precautions are not taken - gloves and a respirator, preferably a protective suit. The room in which the mixture is diluted and applied must be well ventilated.
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It often happens that minor repairs to the car's surface are not enough. The paint ages, does not perform protective functions, a network or web of cracks appears, and its presentation is lost. In general, a full car repaint is required. To do this, you need to know how to dilute car paint.
You will need
- Car paint, solvent, “Sadolin”, dishes for diluting paint, wooden stick for stirring.
Instructions
It should be remembered that painting a car is done after a number of preparatory work. Before painting, the car must be thoroughly washed and dried.
Any paint is applied in two layers. The first layer is called the developing layer; all surface defects are clearly visible on it. In order to dilute the paint for the first developing layer, take 4 parts of solvent and one part of Sadolin. Mix the mixture thoroughly. For the first painting of the outer surface of the body, 1 liter will be enough. Please note that immediately before painting, the surface of the body must be thoroughly degreased and dried again.
Apply paint using a regular household vacuum cleaner. Remove the dust filter from it, connect the spray gun and hose. Pour 100 grams of solvent into the vacuum cleaner tank to adjust the spray pattern. In this case, the paint should be sprayed evenly without splashing, and the torch should be vertical. After adjustment, pour diluted paint into the tank and apply the first layer. First paint the frames, door openings along the sealed areas, then the main area.
Apply the paint with quick horizontal movements from top to bottom. This will make it easier to avoid leaks. Don't worry if there are minor gaps somewhere - this is only the first layer, it is much thinner than the main one. The paint should dry well within 20-30 minutes.
While the paint is drying, prepare the solution for the next layer. The second layer is called decorative, so the paint should be a little thicker. Dilute it with three volume parts of solvent and one part of Sadolin. Stir the mixture until completely homogeneous. Apply the base layer in the same way as the developing layer - quickly and efficiently. After painting, leave the car in a closed garage for 2-3 days.
To thin the paint, use solvents 646, 647 or 648. Please note that the higher the number, the fattier the solvent, and this additional opportunity make more leaks.
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Solvent for car painting is one of the most important and essential components in painting work. There are a large variety of them and only certain ones are needed to properly dilute the paint. So, in order not to be mistaken about how to dilute paint, acrylic or any other, we will consider the main types of solvents and their use.
In principle, a diluent and a solvent are one substance. Both serve to bring the material to the required viscosity (paint, primer, liquid putty, base enamel, etc.)
The manufacturer always indicates which solvent is best to use for painting a car. Each paint system has its own required hardener and thinner. Be sure to read the instructions on the page before use. back side containers. It will indicate what type of thinner to use, at what temperature and for what material.
It’s worth mentioning right away which solvents should not be used to dilute acrylic paint– these are organic 646, 647, 650, etc. When diluting paint or varnish with them, painting difficulties may arise. Use them only for washing or other tools. The price for them is not great for cleaning.
Types of solvents and thinners, which one to choose?
If you have a question, how to dilute acrylic paint? There is only one answer: use any branded acrylic solvent. Even if it is from a different brand than the paint, varnish, primer, etc. being mixed. Just don't use the ones mentioned above! Branded acrylic solvent is an order of magnitude more expensive than conventional thinners, but for quality repairs It is recommended to use them.If the branded acrylic has run out or you want to save money, you can use domestic manufacturer material thinner universal solvent P12. It has been successfully tried on almost all acrylic materials (varnishes, acrylic paint, primers, epoxy substances). There were no problems or defects. It can safely be considered a universal solvent. P12 is “normal.
And so, the main criterion for choosing a thinner for diluting paint is the ambient temperature. Temperature needs to be determined environment before painting and then choose the right one. Temperature affects the drying time of the material. In hot weather, the solvent evaporates faster and the paint does not have time to spread. Defects, large shagreen, and dust appear. In cold weather, evaporation will be too slow and there will be more debris.
There are three groups of acrylic thinners:
- Slow
- Normal
- Fast
Therefore for quality work always choose a material for a certain air temperature.
If it is cold, then use a “fast” thinner at a temperature of 5 to 15 degrees. At normal temperature from 15 to 25 “normal” is used. And in hot weather from 25 degrees, a slow one is necessary. All figures are approximate, for precise definition see manufacturer's instructions. The photo below shows a series of thinners from Body 740 741 742.
It should be noted that there is no special thinner for varnish or for primer, acrylic. To dilute them, use a universal acrylic thinner. But for base enamel there is a base solvent. Although many people use the usual universal one.
Transition solvents
In addition to universal ones, there is also a solvent for transition. They are not intended for thinning varnishes and enamels. Their purpose is to create an invisible transition between old and new paint or varnish. To do this, apply the transition solvent from a spray gun or aerosol can for dry “spraying” in the transition zone of varnish or acrylic paint.
It is extremely important to note that the solvent for transferring over varnish or acrylic paint and for transferring over the base, also called “Binder,” are completely different products. A paint binder is something like a transparent base. It is used so that the metallic grain does not stick out like a “hedgehog” in the transition zone, but “settles down” correctly, which will ensure a high-quality invisible transition.
How to mix paints correctly.
For quality painting paint material must have a certain viscosity and to mix it correctly there is a special tool:
Each has its own advantages and what to use is purely everyone’s choice. The measuring ruler is reusable and will last a very long time, unlike a measuring cup. Measuring rulers are double-sided (each side has different mixing proportions). Basically like this: 2:1 and 4:1 and another option is 3:1 and 5:1.
How to use measuring stick and the glass in the photo below, there is nothing complicated about it.
Before mixing paints, be sure to read the instructions on the packaging in what ratio to dilute the material. Below I will tell you in what proportions to mix different paints.
Mixing acrylic paint "acrylic":
For Vika paint this is a 4:1 ratio with hardener and 20%-30% thinner. And for Mobihel 2:1 with hardener and 10% -20% thinner.
Mixing base:
The base paint is generally mixed 2:1. That is, the base itself and half of it is the solvent. It can also be mixed 1:1.
Mixing varnishes:
The story with varnishes is almost the same as with acrylics. The varnish is diluted 2:1 with hardener and thinner from 0% to 20%. Depending on what viscosity you need it.
All the above mentioned figures are approximate and may vary depending on specific needs, type of work, and application technique. In general, read the instructions before use and there will be no problems.
To accurately determine the viscosity of paint, there is a special tool called a viscometer. The operation of the viscometer: the viscometer is immersed in paint, taken out and timed for how long it takes to empty. As soon as the stream begins to drip, the stopwatch is stopped.
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To say that you will be pleasantly surprised when you hear on the phone or read on the car service website the cost of local painting of your car parts or, even more so full painting, means to say nothing.
Car painting technology
But it needs to be painted. The time has already come for a complete painting of the car, or a situation has arisen when it needs to be done with it further. Exit? There is always a way out. It involves painting the car body with your own hands. Don't worry, everything will work out for you. Just before you start painting, practice on old part bodies, which are in abundance around any garage.
Let's start by telling you a “secret”. Car painting technology has general principles actions, it doesn’t matter whether you want to paint, metallic paint, paint a body part, or carry out.
The difference will only be in the selection of materials for painting and the time you spend. Don't forget to include here the material and time for training painting. A little more time, a little more materials, but the experience gained is worth it.
So, we will conditionally divide the car painting technology into the following areas:
- Stages of car painting.
- Procedure for painting a car.
- Car painting technique.
And conditionally because these directions of action can change or organically complement each other.
Stages of car painting
Preparation of material and equipment. What do you need to paint a car? Materials for painting: putty, primer, paint and varnish, depending on the area and your choice of car color. standard.
The main elements of the equipment are: a grinder with wheels, construction hair dryer, spray gun, compressor, sandpaper, sanding plane.
Body preparation. This stage includes: washing the body, dismantling everything that does not need painting, repairing areas of the body if necessary, preparing the surface for puttying, puttying, priming the surface.
That's it, your car is ready for painting. But this requires preparation. The instructions for painting a car directly indicate the presence of a perfectly clean area when applying paint and varnish. This is the kind of spray booth we will make from the garage.
Preparing the site. A stage that is rarely talked about is preparing the area for painting. This place is the garage. A standard 3x6 garage is not suitable for full painting, but it is ideal for local painting of body parts. The technique of painting a car completely requires at least a space measuring 4x6 meters.
We remove and produce everything unnecessary general cleaning premises. With a vacuum cleaner and Dichlorvos in summer time. This way, we eliminate the possibility of dust, debris and insects ruining your car painting efforts during the varnishing stage. Wet the walls, floor, and ceiling with water. There is no need for puddles, but there should not be dry places either.
As an option: the garage from the inside, after full preparation body for painting, can be covered plastic film. To do this, you just need to have tape and film.
Car painting procedure
Each master has his own procedure for painting a car, but, nevertheless, there are basic principles that should be followed. All removable parts must be removed and painted locally. This applies to doors, optics, handles, moldings, etc. Those. the car body should remain “naked”.
Painting of parts should begin with internal or hidden surfaces. Exterior painting is done last, and it begins with the roof of the car.
Car painting technique
Car painting techniques for different types The painting is also no different. If you are using an aerosol can to remove chips and cracks, then instructions for using the can are provided on it.
When painting a car with a spray gun, it is important to withstand general rules painting techniques. They are not complicated, but the quality of the layers and, ultimately, the appearance of the car depend on their execution.
- for applying paint. Recommended No. 1.4. It all depends on the paint.
- Compressor pressure selection. As a rule, 2.5 - 3 atm is optimal.
- The distance of the spray gun nozzle from the surface to be painted is 150-250 mm.
- Layers of application. 2-3 layers of paint are recommended. The application movements should be uniform and it is important not to overdo it with the thickness of the layer to avoid smudges. Otherwise this place will have to be completely repainted. The intervals between applying layers should be 15-20 minutes for the paint to dry.
Expert opinion
Ruslan Konstantinov
Automotive expert. Graduated from Izhevsk State Technical University named after M.T. Kalashnikov, specializing in “Operation of transport and technological machines and complexes.” Experience professional repair cars for more than 10 years.
After painting, the coating is exposed to various influences for several more weeks, despite the fact that the varnish hardens within a couple of days. On average, it is better not to use the car after painting for at least a week and a half for optimal crystallization of the paint and the creation of a film on the surface. At this time, do not use brushes to sweep away dust; avoid direct contact with the coating. sun rays And atmospheric precipitation. If it is not possible to meet the deadline, then you should avoid traveling on country roads and long distances. As for polishing, this procedure can only be done a month after painting. Until then, you can use regular gentle care products. paint coating containing wax.
Many motorists are wondering: when can you wash your car after painting without damaging the paintwork? Wash the car and especially with car washes high pressure possible only after two weeks. Some people wash their car after just a couple of days, but in this case there is a high probability of damage to the coating, especially if washed incorrectly. First of all, at least a month needs to be excluded detergents with an aggressive chemical composition, cannot be used household chemicals. It is advisable to use a soft sponge at first and clean water, it is better if it is flowing. You should not wash your car in the sun, because drops of water can become real lenses and heat up certain areas, thus damaging the paintwork.
This, in fact, is the technology for painting a car. After painting, in 98% of cases the car is required.
Good luck, car lovers.
