Wintering fuchsia in the basement. Recommendations for care: how to preserve fuchsia in the basement and in the apartment in winter, as well as possible diseases. Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings

This beautifully flowering plant pleases with its bright flowers until late autumn. However, how to properly prepare it for winter?

Since the end of August, I have been using phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, completely eliminating nitrogen and reducing the interval between fertilizing to 2 times a week (I give the shoots the opportunity to fully ripen). My fuchsias grow outside all summer and winter in the cellar. For such wintering, the bush should have well-developed branches covered with bark. Green twigs in the basement will not survive the winter.

I’m also slowly reducing watering. I feed it for the last time in October. phosphorus fertilizer and after that I remember about feeding only in the spring. It is advisable to dig up fuchsias growing in open ground and transplant them into a pot; the bushes will have time to take root well before wintering.

I do not forget to promptly remove wilted flowers and yellowing leaves. I inspect the fuchsias for lurking pests. If “living creatures” appear, I immediately treat all the plants with Actellik. Usually one treatment is enough, and actellik is effective against both ticks and insects.

If it is expected at night sudden drop in temperature, I bring all the “beauty” into the house, and during the day - back into the fresh air. I try to keep fuchsias outside for as long as possible, so that practically without my intervention they prepare for winter.

End of october. The fuchsias look a little “shabby”, almost all the foliage has turned yellow and crumbled, flowering has practically stopped. I move on to the basic preparation of plants for moving to winter storage. Be sure to remove all remaining foliage. To prevent fungal diseases, I spill all the pots with a solution of Maxim or Fundazol. You can also spray the above-ground part of the plant with fungicides. After processing, I let the bushes dry and start cutting. I cut out all the weak, green shoots, shortening the tops by about 1/3.

I let the cuts dry thoroughly in a warm, dry place. I move the pots to the cellar. The temperature there does not drop below 3-5°C, the humidity is quite high, so I can do without winter watering. Owners of a warm, dry basement should definitely monitor for soil moisture in pots, otherwise fuchsias may turn into a “herbarium” by spring. If the wintering room is not very large, you need to shorten all the shoots by 1/3, cut out everything that gets in the way. Shake the fuchsias out of their pots. Place them tightly, bush by bush, in a plastic vegetable box.

Cover the space between the walls of the box and the earthen ball with sphagnum moss or peat. Don’t forget to provide each bush with an individual “name” tag. It is convenient for these purposes to cut aluminum beer or drink cans into strips, use a ballpoint pen to squeeze out the names of the variety on the strips, and attach the tags to the fuchsia stem with a wire.

Balcony

We also try to keep fuchsias on the balcony for as long as possible. With the onset of persistent cold weather, if we have an insulated balcony, we keep the fuchsias there. If the temperature on the balcony does not fall below 5°C and does not rise above 10°C, such wintering for fuchsias is simply wonderful. Plants stop active growth, but do not go into hibernation at all, they seem to be dozing.

With increasing daylight hours, fuchsias will wake up and grow faster, unlike plants that overwintered in the basement. The gardener’s concern during this period is to maintain soil moisture in the pots and monitor the ambient temperature. Processing and pruning for fuchsias overwintering on the balcony is the same as when preparing for wintering in the basement.

Windowsill

We slightly shorten the strongly overgrown shoots and place the fuchsia pots close to the glass. You can place polystyrene foam or other insulation under the pots so that the root system is not damaged by the cold. If the apartment is hot in winter, you may have to separate the overwintering fuchsias. plastic film, blocking the access of dry air and creating a kind of greenhouse on the windowsill. You need to monitor the condition of the plants very carefully.

Adjust watering - fuchsias should not be overwatered, but drought should also be avoided. In warm weather, fuchsias will inevitably grow; pale, thin shoots must be pinched. Fuchsias overwintering on the windowsill need additional lighting.

You need to carefully monitor pests. Control measures– mandatory spraying with suitable preparations. There is no need to feed wintering fuchsias; keep the plants on a starvation diet until spring.

Proper care of fuchsia in winter at home involves a number of activities. They are aimed at preparing the flower for the cold, properly preserving it and bringing it back to life with the onset of spring. Fuchsia is the subject of worship and adoration of most gardeners. This plant looks bright, striking everyone with its rich palette of colors and originality of shape. Fuchsia belongs to the category of perennial evergreen shrubs of the Fireweed family. This plant is native to South America. Thanks to its beauty and ease of care, it is incredibly popular among gardeners around the world. Today science knows several hundred species of this shrub growing in wildlife. The plant easily tolerates transportation. It is equally well suited for life in a garden and a city apartment. Particularly appreciated by flower lovers is the fact that with good care, fuchsia can live for more than 50 years.

General rules for caring for shrubs

In order for an exotic flower to always please its owner, it needs to create appropriate conditions for growth, flowering and rest during the off-season. Therefore, everyone is interested in how to care for fuchsia growing in open ground and at home in a flower pot.

Let's look at the basic rules for caring for fuchsia at home

Watering mode. Fuchsia belongs to the category of moisture-loving plants. It responds equally well to both root watering and external spraying. The shrub should be watered daily in small portions. A signal that the plant requires moisture is when the top layer of soil dries to a depth of 1 cm or more. But you should not overuse watering. Excess moisture leads to the development of mold and rotting of roots. You can avoid waterlogging by creating a drainage layer at the bottom of the flowerpot. For this, expanded clay or well-cleaned pebbles are used.

Flower lighting. Despite the fact that fuchsia is a heat-loving flower, it is not recommended to place it in direct sunlight. For this plant, reflected light and even partial shade conditions are quite enough. When choosing a location for a shrub, you need to take into account the contrast factor. Plants with dark-colored flowers need more color, while bright, light-colored flowers do much better in the shade.

Selecting a soil mixture And. It is best to use black soil with the addition of leaf humus for growing shrubs. This composition will provide root system nutrients, will give it freedom to grow. The plant needs constant feeding. For blooming fuchsia, you need to use biological fertilizers with a minimum nitrogen content. Fertilizers can be applied along with irrigation liquid or by adding them directly to the soil. When winter comes, the plant does not need feeding. It enters a state of rest when there is no need for nutrients.

Temperature maintenance. Despite the fact that fuchsia is native to hot countries, it reacts extremely negatively to high temperatures. When it increases above +25 ºС, the bush becomes lethargic, does not bloom or bear fruit. IN summer time the flower must be protected from direct sunlight. To do this, you need to put the flowerpot in a cool place, and create artificial shade for the flower garden.

Fuchsia ampelous

If the gardener follows these simple rules, then he will not have to look for the answer to the question of why exotic flowers and fruits do not appear on the fuchsia bush.

Preparing the plant for wintering

IN winter time the bush is in a state of dormancy. This transition is due to the adaptation of fuchsia to climatic conditions when the temperature drops and the sun's rays become insufficient for normal functioning. The plant needs rest to restore the energy spent during the season and prepare for flowering next season.

Preparing shrubs for winter preservation is as follows:

Reducing watering volume. This should be done gradually, completely stopping watering for a month. Such an event should begin in September, so that by the first frost the stem and branches are completely dehydrated.

Stop applying fertilizer in any form. Stopping feeding stimulates the shedding of leaves and flower petals. The plant receives a kind of signal that it needs to reduce activity.

Limiting access to light. The flowerpot should be removed away from the window. It is necessary that only natural light reflected from the walls and ceiling falls on it. If this is not possible, then an incandescent lamp turned on for several hours a day will do.

Decrease in air temperature. The flowerpot must be taken out onto a glazed balcony, placed in a basement or other room where the air temperature does not exceed +15ºС.

It is necessary to reduce the volume of watering in preparation for winter

After this, you need to wait until all the leaves and petals fall from the stems, and they themselves become dry and brittle.

Care for fuchsia in winter

After the shrub has entered a dormant state, it is necessary to carry out a number of measures to ensure normal winter hibernation and successful awakening in the spring.

The gardener must do the following:

Wash the inside of the flowerpot well and disinfect its walls. Arrange new drainage inside the pot and fill it with fresh fertile soil. Carefully place the bush into it.

After carrying out sanitary procedures, you need to place the fuchsia in a dark, damp place. In order to prevent the earthen clod from drying out and the roots from breaking, the plant must be periodically watered with clean, settled water.

Preparing fuchsia for wintering

If fuchsia is left warm for the winter, then there is a high probability that it will not bloom throughout the next season. This is one of the features of this beautiful but capricious flower.

Awakening of fuchsia in spring

It is necessary to bring the plant out of hibernation at the beginning of spring, when it becomes warmer and there is more and more sunlight.

In order for a flower to successfully enter an active state after wintering, the following manipulations must be performed with it:

Trim. This must be done in order to get rid of old wood, spent leaves and buds. Old branches are cut almost to the base, and fresh shoots are cut to a third of their length. In addition, the stems directed into the bush and forming dense plexuses in the crown are removed.

Place the flowerpot in a warm place, where the flower will receive reflected sunlight. Begin progressive watering with sufficient amounts organic fertilizers. You need to water the flower after sunset so as not to provoke stress. When the stem swells and gets stronger, it needs to be rinsed to remove dust that has accumulated over the winter.

Place a container of water next to the flowerpot to ensure uniform saturation of the wood with moisture from the inside and outside. If this is not done, the trunk and branches may become covered with cracks.

If the bush is properly prepared for wintering and brought out of hibernation, the stem is completely restored within a month. Buds and buds appear on it. If you plan to grow fuchsia outdoors in the garden, then it should be planted no later than a week after the last night frost.

Fuchsia propagation

The desire of any gardener to have several fuchsia bushes grown independently is quite understandable. This bush can be propagated at home, without the help of professionals.

Fuchsia propagation is carried out in two ways:

Seeds. The interesting thing about this approach is that the new plant can be very different from its parent. This happens due to self-pollination of the flower or the participation of bees in this process. The result of growing from seeds can be a greenhouse of flowers of the same genus of different colors.

Cuttings. A young shoot up to 20 cm long is cut off from a bush that has awakened from winter sleep. After removing the leaves from the lower part, the root is placed in clean water. After the roots appear, the cuttings are transplanted into the ground.

As the fuchsia grows, it is transplanted into a larger pot. This procedure must be carried out annually to provide space for the roots, which are constantly increasing in volume. It is better to replant in autumn or spring, when the plant is dormant.

Contents and features of preparation for wintering

Fuchsia is a seasonal plant. Spring-autumn is a period of active growth, flowering and reproduction, and winter is a period of dormancy. She needs good lighting all year round, but in winter they water it less often, preventing the earthen clod from drying out 100% and the bark wrinkling. In the fall, they move the flower to a cool room (or artificially create coolness) and do not get upset when they notice the leaves falling off.

Where to begin?

• We prepare the flower for winter - the plant is left in the fresh air until there is severe frost. By bringing it into the house ahead of schedule, the lignification process is interrupted.
• Since the beginning of September, the flower has not been fertilized. Fertilizers are not needed, since by this month it accumulates enough nutrients to survive the winter and not die without them.
• Autumn pruning will be needed to prevent the crown from stretching, reducing the size of the buds and to prevent problems with flowering next spring.

Important! During pruning, it is necessary to remove weak and broken shoots, and shorten the remaining ones by 1/3. Otherwise, new buds will not be formed. Old forks also need to be cut off so that replacement shoots appear. It is necessary to peel off all the leaves on the fuchsia.

Before moving the plant to the winter apartment, an inspection will not hurt. There should be no yellowed leaves or dried stems left on it. Otherwise, they will turn into a breeding ground for fungal infections and harmful insects(rust, gray rot). Experienced flower growers recommend treating fuchsia with a biological product based on rapeseed oil Rapsol before wintering. This spraying protects it from aphids and other pests.

How to properly prune and preserve a plant?

Before wintering, fuchsia is pruned, not fertilized and sprayed with a biological product purchased at a flower shop to protect against pests.

Basement or cellar

How to keep a plant in the basement, and what kind of care does it need? Not everyone has the opportunity to organize the wintering of fuchsia on a glassed-in warm loggia of an apartment or in a bright greenhouse. Wintering goes well in a “dark” room - in the basement, garage or cellar. Before moving it to one of the rooms listed above, trim it and remove the leaves.

In the dark, it also “breathes”, just like in the fresh air, consuming nutrients and evaporating water. The room where it will be located must have ventilation. Otherwise, with its appearance, the humidity in the air will increase, which will provoke an outbreak of fungal diseases. The optimal temperature for wintering fuchsia is in a cellar or basement, where the temperature is – +10⁰С.

Watch a video about how fuchsias winter in the cellar:

In the apartment

Not all gardeners have a basement or garage where they can move a pot of fuchsia for the winter. Some have no choice and are forced to bring it home. You can also provide a comfortable winter in an apartment, but only if it is regularly ventilated.

At the beginning of autumn, fuchsia cuttings are transplanted into “poor soil” with a small content of humus for the winter. This slows down the growth of young bushes. If in winter a gardener notices that they are sprouting, he should ruthlessly cut them off and open the window wider to lower the temperature in the room. The shoots do not need to be thrown away. You can try to root them by placing them in water on a well-lit and “warm” windowsill.

If fuchsias overwintering in the basement are rarely watered - 1-2 times a month, then plants that winter in an apartment are watered more often.

Note! Due to central heating, the earthen ball dries out faster, and the lack of moisture leads to the death of the flower.

On the day when the gardener brings the fuchsia pot home, he must open the window and set the double-glazed window to minimal ventilation. The window should always be open, except on days when it gets very cold outside.

During the dormant period, fuchsia is even more capricious than during the period of active growth and flowering. It reacts poorly to excess and lack of moisture. Absence necessary conditions for wintering, increased air humidity and temperature lead to the appearance of insects. Fungicides and insecticides do not always help in combating them, and the plant can only be thrown away.

How to care for a flower on the windowsill?

• Maximum ventilation of the window sill. The pot is placed as close to the glass as possible.
• Insulating the bottom with polystyrene foam during transplantation helps to avoid rotting of the roots due to cold masses constantly rushing into the room through a slightly open window.
• Dry air protection will be needed if the apartment is hot. To do this, simply cover the fuchsia with plastic wrap.
• Watering should not be frequent or abundant.
• The plant must be treated with special preparations to protect against pests.
• In December and January, the plant is illuminated with lamps, since there is not sufficient lighting during the day.

Watch a video about the problems of indoor wintering fuchsias:

Do I need to trim?

Definitely you need to prune the plant for the winter, because this is an important stage in growing and it is very important to do it correctly. It is held twice a year. The first time is in the fall, when they move it from the garden to the basement or apartment and it is necessary to provide suitable conditions for hibernation, and the second time is in the spring, in order to form a beautiful bush. Fuchsia is pruned in the fall after it has finished blooming, so as not to provoke the growth of 1-2 trunks and the bush stretching upward. This procedure is necessary for the proper development of the flower next spring.

When is it necessary to clean?

Fuchsia must be removed in the fall; at the end of October, the pot is moved from the garden or taken from the dacha to an apartment or basement for the winter.

Care

Thanks to the work of breeders, fuchsia varieties have appeared that will overwinter outside even in those regions of the Russian Federation where the temperature on the thermometer drops below -30 degrees Celsius. Before thinking about organizing its wintering, find out whether it is winter-hardy or not.

Important! You cannot bring winter-hardy fuchsia into your apartment: it thrives in natural conditions - better in the garden than in the warmth.

Caring for fuchsia in winter is not burdensome. There is no need to fertilize it, but only water it as the earthen clod dries out. It is advisable to maintain a temperature on the windowsill of +10-15 degrees Celsius. It allows you to stop the growth of the plant until spring. A bad place for it is a north window, since due to the acute lack of light it stretches out. The best time to “awaken” is the end of February. A winter-hardy plant is left in the garden (varieties Coralline, Baby Blue Eyes, General Monk, etc.).

Before wintering, prune it, leaving shoots 5-10 cm long. If it grows in a hanging flowerpot, take it out and replant it in a pot or open ground with a small content of humus. For wintering, cover the fuchsia with a layer of peat or dry oak leaves. To protect against moisture, a layer of plastic film is placed on top of it.

Possible diseases

When fuchsia is in winter, it is affected by a fungal disease - rust. It appears due to the fact that the gardener neglected the recommendations and did not create conditions for a problem-free winter: the room is warm, dark and humid, and not dry and fresh. He watered the plant more often than necessary, hid it from direct sunlight and did not ventilate the room.

To prevent the fungus from infecting fuchsia, treat it with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, but many neglect this procedure. They reproach themselves for this when dark brown spots appear on the leaves. In most cases, the diseased flower dies, and along with it other indoor flowers, if you do not isolate it from others and tear off the leaves affected by the fungus. Having noticed rust in the first days, they save the plant by preparing a disinfectant mixture of 5 liters of water, 200 grams of green soap and 15 grams of copper sulfate.

Gray rot affects fuchsia if the air in the room is over-humidified. It is easy to determine which part is affected: it is soft and watery, and white plaque spots are visible on the leaf blade. To cure the plant, the affected leaves are cut off, treated with special preparations and the microclimate in the room is changed to prevent re-infection of fuchsia.

Conclusion

It is easy to organize the storage of fuchsia in winter, and it is not necessary to move it from the garden to the basement or loggia. It will overwinter on the windowsill in an apartment if you occasionally water and spray it, smoothing out the operation of the central heating.

Fuchsia is a houseplant that is sometimes called the "Elf Flower". For almost 300 years, these indoor flowers have been decorating home and office rooms flower lovers around the world. In this article you will read about growing fuchsia and caring for it at home. Manifold color shades simply mesmerizing. In everyday life, fuchsia is not capricious; even a novice gardener can grow it at home.

Care

Fuchsia has a huge number of hybrid forms with straight and pyramidal stems; there are ampelous and spreading varieties, hanging, climbing, in the form of bushes and bonsai. Fuchsia blooms profusely and for a long time beautiful flowers- flashlights. We'll tell you how to care for indoor fuchsia at home:

Temperature

Comfortable temperature for growing fuchsia at home is 18 – 22 °C in summer and not higher than 18 °C in winter. If the temperature is above or below these limits for a long time, the decorative properties of fuchsia may suffer. The buds will begin to fall off, the leaves will become smaller and lighter. The plant will slow down its development. There will be a risk of infection by diseases and pests.

If the temperature during the active growing season of fuchsia drops below comfortable, the same effect will occur. The plant orients itself based on the ambient temperature. When it is warm and light, the flower actively develops and blooms profusely, usually from spring to autumn. At the end of autumn and winter, when it becomes cooler and there is less sunlight, the development of the fuchsia flower stops, buds stop forming - the fuchsia is preparing to rest.

Location

It is better to place flowerpots with fuchsia on the windowsills of the eastern and northern sides of the room. Even here, the flower must be protected, if necessary, from direct sunlight with the help of blinds or curtains. On north-facing windows in the spring, fuchsia may not have enough lighting. You will have to provide the bushes with illumination using a phyto lamp or a fluorescent lamp for up to 12 hours a day.

On southern windows, especially in the summer, fuchsia will be too hot. It is better at this time to take the flowerpot with a flower into the garden under the trees or onto the balcony, where the sun's rays will illuminate the fuchsia only early in the morning. At noon and until evening, fuchsia feels best in partial shade. During flowering, it is advisable not to move the flower from place to place and not to turn different sides towards the light. Fuchsia doesn't like this, and can simply drop all its buds.

Watering

Proper watering is the most important component of caring for blooming fuchsias. Many factors influence the frequency and quantity of watering a flower:

• Pot location
• Fuchsia variety
• Her growth stage
• Soil composition
• Pot size and type
• Weather

Without additional nutrition, fuchsia can survive for quite a long time, but without water it cannot. Fuchsia needs to be watered regularly. Make sure that the soil is well saturated with moisture each time. The next watering should be no earlier than the top layer of soil from the previous watering has dried out. Excess water from the pan must be drained to prevent moisture stagnation in the roots of the plant.

A flowering plant has a great need for moisture. Water in summer period you will have to do it often and regularly - every 3-4 days, and sometimes more often.

If the fuchsia looks drooping and the soil in the pot is wet, the problem is not watering. Perhaps your beauty has overheated.

In autumn, watering is gradually reduced to once a week, and in winter, watering is done no more than once or twice a month.

Feeding

Fuchsia needs to be fed regularly, once every two weeks. This is especially important during the active growing season, from April until autumn. For feeding, complex fertilizers for ornamental flowering plants are used. Watering with liquid fertilizers must be done on moist soil. Fertilizing helps fuchsia grow green mass and form countless buds. Can also be used foliar feeding fuchsia on the back of the leaves.

During winter dormancy, fuchsia is not fed.

Young, newly planted fuchsia bushes do not need to be fed, as they are planted in well-prepared soil filled with all the necessary microelements and organic matter. The same rule applies when transplanting a plant into a larger pot with new nutrient soil. Feeding should be resumed about a month after transplantation.

Humidity and spraying

For fuchsia, air humidity is comfortable within the range of 50 – 60%. Too dry indoor air will cause fuchsia leaves and buds to yellow and wilt. You can increase the humidity of the surrounding air using wide containers of water placed next to the fuchsia. You can also place the flower pot in a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay.

On hot summer days, fuchsia will be saved from the heat by regular spraying with settled water. room temperature in the morning and evening hours. It would be good to take the fuchsia out into the fresh air in the garden, in the shade under the trees, or at least on the balcony, where the sun's rays reach only in the morning. But we must remember that this must be done carefully - after all, fuchsia does not like being moved from one place to another during flowering.

When spraying, try not to get the spray on the flowers.

Landing

It is impossible to plant fuchsia or, especially, a cutting immediately into a large pot. It is necessary to increase the size of the pot gradually. At first, the pot should not be more than 9 cm in diameter. As the roots entwine the entire lump of earth and the need arises to replant the plant, you can prepare the pot a little bigger size. Place a good layer of expanded clay or other drainage material on the bottom. Add a layer of soil and plant the prepared bush or cutting.

The pot must be well filled with soil to prevent voids between the roots and the walls of the pot. To do this, gently shake the pot and tap on its walls, but under no circumstances compact it with your hands. For fuchsia to grow, porous soil is as important as good drainage.

Transfer

Taking fuchsia out of an old pot

Fuchsia is a fast-growing plant. Therefore, it must be regularly replanted into a pot of suitable size, which is 3–4 cm larger than before. It is better to do this every spring, when the flower begins to awaken and grow.

It’s better to take a ceramic pot so that it protects summer heat the root system of the plant from overheating. Don't forget about drainage. 2 - 3 cm of expanded clay or pebbles at the bottom of the pot will protect the roots of the plant from rotting. As a substrate, it is better to take a purchased soil mixture for flowering indoor plants.

You can also prepare the soil for replanting fuchsia yourself. To do this, mix leaf soil, turf soil, humus, peat and coarse river sand in equal parts. Replant using the transfer method: pour a little prepared soil into the pot on the drainage layer, then carefully remove the fuchsia from the old pot and place it in a new pot together with a lump of earth. Fill the voids on the sides with soil mixture.

After transplanting, place the fuchsia on a shelf with diffused lighting. Trim its stems to one-third of the length. Spray the leaves and water the substrate with settled water until excess water appears in the pan. After a few minutes, drain excess moisture from the pan.

After transplantation, no additional feeding is needed for a month!

Now wait a couple of months - abundant fuchsia flowering is guaranteed!

Trimming and pinching

Fuchsia flowers appear on young shoots. To increase the number of such shoots, the plant should be regularly pruned, and young shoots should be pinched. Pinching is a very effective method of making fuchsia bloom more abundantly. Using pinches they form the required form, give the crown the appearance of a ball, bush or miniature bonsai tree.

Fuchsia, depending on the variety, grows to a height of three meters or more. It is difficult and impractical to grow such a giant indoors. If you pinch the plant in time, it will form into a strong and beautiful bush.

Indoor fuchsia should be trimmed twice a year: in the fall, at the end of the mass flowering of the flower (October), and in the winter (early January).

Fuchsia in the form of a tree

During the first, autumn, pruning, you will remove all faded fuchsia branches at a height of 2 cm from the dormant buds. Carefully inspect each branch for pests, remove excess seed pods and outdated flower stalks. If insect pests are found, cut off severely damaged parts of the flower and treat the entire plant with an insecticide.

Do the second pruning in early January to finalize the crown of the plant. If the fuchsia overwintered in the basement or garage, the plant has already been pruned in the fall. In spring, all that remains is to remove dry shoots and leaves from it.

If the plant has been in the room all winter, it must be trimmed. Use clean pruning shears or garden shears to remove any long, thin shoots as they will be of little use. They will not bloom luxuriantly, and your bush will not become more beautiful from them.

Fuchsia bonsai

If the plant is periodically pruned, it will grow in width instead of height. It is also better to cut off woody old shoots, since they consume nutrients and have almost no flowers. All flowers bloom only on young shoots. A strong and beautiful bush will soon form.

If you decide to form a bonsai from fuchsia, then leave only one shoot or, conversely, several such shoots that can be twisted together so that they act as the trunk of your tree. The tops must be pinched to form a lush crown of the bonsai.

What is the best way to pinch fuchsia so as not to harm its beauty and decorativeness?

If you want to form a tree from fuchsia, pinching should be done in winter, when the life processes of the plant slow down. Remove excess shoots, leave a few on the central stem. Look what happened in the spring. If the crown of the flower is not yet formed as you would like, prune it again in the spring.

You can trim the plant right to the stump. In this case, the fuchsia will sleep longer and bloom later, but a wide bush will form.

Fuchsia in bush form

If the shoots are cut back by only a third, the fuchsia will turn into a tree and can take up a lot of space.

The shoots that grow in place of the old branches are pinched a couple of times as they grow. Fuchsia will then turn into a lush beauty and will delight you with abundant flowering.

If young branches are pinched above the third pair of leaves, tillering will increase. To enhance the effect of tillering, the regrown branches need to be pinched again, but now near the second pair of leaves.

You decide for yourself what you will grow from fuchsia - a bush or a tree!

Keep in mind that before fuchsia blooms, two months pass for the formation and development of buds. Fuchsias with small simple flowers bloom earlier than plants with giant inflorescences and large double flowers.

Care for fuchsia in winter

Fuchsia is a perennial plant. It cannot grow and bloom from year to year without interruption. To replenish vitality, she needs rest - wintering. But home care in winter is just as necessary as in other seasons. Usually in winter, fuchsia is at rest. From a warm, bright room it must be moved to a dark and cool one. For example, in a basement or garage with a temperature of 5 to 15°C. Fuchsia does not need lighting in winter. The indoor flower should be watered a couple of times a month - it does not like very dry soil even during hibernation. Let him stay there until the end of January. Don't worry about the leaves falling off - you will still remove almost all the shoots. By spring, new, young ones will grow.

If you have a glazed and insulated balcony, where the temperature does not drop to sub-zero levels, a fuchsia pot can overwinter on the balcony. Only here she will not be able to fully rest, since the processes of her development will continue in the light. The flower will need to be looked after and watered regularly, but not abundantly. Dry leaves and shoots need to be cut off so as not to provoke the development of diseases. In winter, a weakened plant may attract the attention of insect pests. It should be treated with an insecticide at least once during the autumn-winter season.

If your fuchsia is kept indoors in winter, it will survive, but by the end of winter it will lose all its attractiveness and take on a deplorable appearance. In this case, cut the plant back to 23 times its length and remove any dead branches. Move the flower away from heating devices- on a table or shelf. Monitor the humidity of the surrounding air. If necessary, and in winter it is definitely necessary, increase the humidity in the room by spraying the plant with warm water. Ventilate the room as often as possible. Place wide containers filled with water next to the flower. Regularly, but not too much, water the soil with settled water, sometimes adding potassium permanganate. Once a month, feed the flower with complex fertilizer for flowering plants. If these conditions are met, your fuchsia will come to life and new shoots will appear. It can even bloom in winter. But don’t expect that in the spring it will quickly restore its shape and delight you with unprecedented flowering.

Propagation by cuttings

Rooting cuttings in water is the main and most successful way to propagate fuchsia. The best time for cuttings is spring. Choose a young shoot from a fuchsia bush. The length of the cutting depends directly on the fuchsia variety. Usually they take from 10 to 20 cm. The point is that over time, the fuchsia shoots harden a little. If you take an old shoot for propagation, it will also take root, but this process will take longer. The young shoot will take root faster and will grow more actively in the future. Remove the leaves at the bottom of the shoot so that none of them comes into contact with the liquid in the container prepared for rooting. Also cut off large leaves completely or in half. The cutting does not yet have its own roots, and the leaves will draw all the moisture from it, preventing the root system from forming. Place the cutting in a jar of settled water and cover the top with a thick translucent bag. In 5 to 10 days, roots should appear. After a couple of weeks, the cutting can be planted in a prepared (preferably ceramic) pot with a nutrient mixture and drainage at the bottom. The size of the pot should be no more than 9 cm in height.

Rooting cuttings in water

If you decide to propagate fuchsia in the summer, keep in mind that it loves coolness and humidity. At high temperatures, a cutting placed in water may rot without ever sprouting roots. We advise you to root the cuttings in a room with air conditioning or a split system.

In autumn, fuchsia prepares for a dormant period. All life support processes of the plant slow down. So from September to January it is better not to propagate using cuttings.

The second method involves planting the cuttings directly into a prepared substrate - a peat tablet, perlite, vermiculite or sphagnum. Be sure to place the planting material in a greenhouse or container with a lid to create a greenhouse effect, since such rooting requires high air humidity. As soon as the shoots take root, the greenhouse is opened slightly and the seedling is gradually accustomed to indoor conditions.

A sudden change in climate can cause the shoot to lose its leaves and die.

Autumn harvesting of cuttings

Autumn harvesting of cuttings is the most The best way preserve fuchsia during the winter period. In early autumn, take several cuttings from an adult healthy bush. They are suitable for propagating fuchsia. We take several cuttings as a safety net in case some of them do not survive the winter.

Cuttings need to be taken 15 - 20 cm in length, depending on the variety. They are stored in pots with soil in cool places, such as garages and basements. You can also save fuchsia cuttings on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, in a bag of sawdust. Closer to spring, they are taken out, treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and placed in water for rooting. (see above)

Propagation by leaves

If it is not possible to cut a cutting suitable for propagation from a fuchsia bush, you can use fuchsia leaves for this purpose. Cut off a large healthy leaf along with the cutting and bury it a centimeter into wet perlite. In greenhouse conditions, with daily spraying, high humidity and constant temperature, a miniature rosette of leaves will begin to develop at the base of the petiole. When it is strong enough, separate it from the leaf and plant it in a separate pot with a nutrient mixture (any soil mixture for flowering plants will do).

Propagation by seeds

Fuchsia seeds

Growing from seeds at home is rarely used in the case of fuchsia. Only experienced flower growers or breeders can do this. Sometimes, for the sake of experiment, amateur flower growers also try to collect seeds from a plant and grow their own fuchsia specimen from them. If you want to try it too, we'll tell you how to do it.

The procedure for obtaining fuchsia seeds is quite labor-intensive, but interesting.

To begin with, exclude the possibility of the plant self-pollinating or pollinating it by random insects. To do this, remove the anthers from a selected flower that has not yet bloomed. Then, on the stigma of the pistil, on the stamens, apply pollen from the variety of fuchsia that you want to grow. Now carefully put a fabric cover on the bud or wrap it with a piece of gauze and secure it with thread. In this form, the flower will stand for several weeks until the fruit ripens.

In order not to spoil your work, it is better not to touch the flower while the fruit is ripening!

When the fruit is ready, remove it from the stem with tweezers. Carefully cut and remove the seeds. Dry the seeds for several days before planting them in the ground or storing them. It is better to plant seeds in tall containers with a lid. You need to sow seeds on a damp surface of the substrate (peat plus coarse sand). Don't cover the seeds, just press them down a little with your fingers. Close the lid and place the container in a well-lit, warm place for germination. But not in direct sunlight! It is advisable to sow fuchsia in early spring. The lack of lighting must be compensated with the help of additional lighting with fluorescent lamps. The seed germination temperature should be maintained between 18 – 22 °C. Don't forget to ventilate your greenhouse. If necessary, moisten the soil in the container with settled water using a fine spray bottle. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks. Now the lid can be opened more often and for longer - let the young bushes get used to indoor conditions. Make sure that the substrate does not dry out, the lighting is diffused and for at least 12 hours. per day, the temperature should be comfortable.

After one and a half to two months, young fuchsia bushes need to be pruned. Before replanting the plants, the substrate in the container is well watered. The seedlings are taken out along with the soil from the root system, one at a time, and planted in a separate pot. Water generously. The soil can be used purchased for flowering plants, or you can prepare it yourself from equal parts of turf and leaf soil, humus, peat and coarse sand. Remove the pots with young plants from sunlight and into the shade - let them gradually get used to the new conditions. After a couple of weeks, pots with young fuchsias can be placed in a permanent place prepared for them. Further care consists of regular watering, good lighting, comfortable temperature. After a month, not earlier, you can begin to gradually feed them with complex fertilizers for flowering plants. No more than once every 2 weeks. Don't forget to shape the crown of your flower. If you want it to be full, strong and not too tall, pinch off the top.

Diseases

Fuchsia is rarely affected by diseases and insect pests. The main problems arise from careless plant care. Let us introduce you to some of the problems that arise when growing fuchsia at home.

Fuchsia has dropped its buds. Probable reasons:

• insufficient or excessive watering;
• moving a pot with a flowering plant to a new place;
• insufficient lighting;
• air temperature is too high;
• lack of nutrition in the soil.

Why does fuchsia shed its leaves? Probable reasons:

• indoor air is too dry;
• high air temperature;
• lack of moisture in the soil;
• lack of nutrition in the soil.

The fuchsia leaves have turned yellow. Probable reasons:

• overmoistening of the soil (water the flower correctly, excess water from the pan must be drained. During the dormant period, reduce watering to a minimum).

Dark spots and small drops of dew appeared on the fuchsia leaves. Probable reasons:

• The air humidity in the room is too high (it is necessary to reduce the humidity, ventilate the room more often, spray the fuchsia with special preparations).

Fuchsia does not bloom. The reasons may be the following:

• unfavorable conditions during hibernation;
• late circumcision or untimely pinching of fuchsia;
• the plant is in direct sunlight;
• little light (the shoots will stretch out, will be thin and frail, the buds will be weak or not formed at all).
• the pot is too large for the flower (fuchsia will bloom when its roots completely entwine the entire soil in the pot. If the flower is still small and the pot is too large, most likely you will not see flowers this year);
• the soil in the pot is poor and too light (such soil quickly becomes compacted from watering, there are few useful elements in it. The root system is located at the edges of the pot, cannot weave the entire earthen ball in the center and suffers greatly from this);
• the soil is too heavy, the roots develop poorly or stop developing altogether (the plant does not receive moisture and nutrition, the soil turns sour, the roots rot);
• the flower was overfed with nitrogen fertilizers (the green mass will begin to increase to the detriment of flowering. Until the fuchsia uses up the entire excess supply of nitrogen fertilizers, it will not bloom).

Pests

Whitefly

If this problem arises, you will have to solve it with the help of folk remedies or chemicals, insecticides. It is necessary to spray the affected plants several times, at intervals of 5–7 days, until the fuchsia is completely free of sucking insects.

Monitor your plants, regularly inspect them for diseases and pests, and take action in a timely manner.

Video: caring for fuchsia

Conclusion

Bright, varied and multi-colored indoor fuchsias are precious exhibits in the collection of any amateur gardener. If you have not yet purchased this flower and doubt your abilities as a gardener, then it is in vain. Even a novice gardener can grow fuchsia. Your time, knowledge and expenses for caring for her at home will not be in vain. Fuchsia will thank you with fabulous blooms for many years!

There are some that will grow well in aggressive conditions - be it in a greenhouse or in the yard. Understanding which group the flower belongs to, it will be easy to organize proper care. Basic breeding conditions consist of ensuring the moisture content of the atmosphere, watering time and ensuring a safe temperature. The intensity of the sun is one of the critical components. Many of the flowers grown at home can be divided into classes. Others can be bred exclusively in open space. Other species can only be bred at home without going outside.

How to properly care for fuchsia?

Fuchsia: propagation, cultivation and care at home... Homemade fuchsia is most widespread due to its unpretentiousness in care and ease of reproduction.

A fast-growing semi-herbaceous fuchsia shrub with small oval leaves, amazingly beautiful bright flowers hanging like lanterns on long and thin stalks. Their sepals and corolla are brightly colored in different colors, which gives them a special charm. A fuchsia bush can be arranged in the form of a standard tree or grown as a hanging hanging plant.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

How to care and what to do if fuchsia does not bloom. Possible reasons may be that in winter unsuitable conditions were created for fuchsia. Ideal conditions in winter are 5-10 degrees. In this mode, fuchsia stops shoot growth and goes into a dormant state.

As the temperature increases, the intensity and duration of lighting should also increase.

The reason may be due to late pruning and pinching of fuchsia. Pruning should be done in spring and autumn, cutting out any diseased, weakened or broken branches. During cold wintering, the branches should be shortened by one third in the fall. During a warm winter, it is better to postpone drastic pruning until spring (February-March).

Pinch the shoots depending on what shape you decide to give your plant. When forming an ampel, pinching is usually done after the third pair of leaves. When forming a bush, pinch it after the second pair of leaves. You should not pinch more than two times on the upper shoots, and it is better to pinch the lower shoots once, otherwise you may not wait for flowering.

Errors in care during the growth and flowering period of fuchsia. The plant may be hot, as mentioned above, or there may be poor lighting. Direct sunlight depresses a houseplant, causing it to suddenly become smaller and drop its buds, while the roots may suffer from the heat. Overfed with fertilizers (nitrogen), or vice versa, there is not enough nutrients (phosphorus-potassium) during budding. The size of the container does not correspond to the size of the root system. Fuchsias bloom after they have wrapped their roots around the entire lump of substrate in the pot.

Decent content for fuchsia!

– temperature During the growing season, the most favorable range for fuchsia is 18-25 degrees. In summer, especially in August, it behaves well in open ground, but as soon as the temperature exceeds 30 degrees, the plant sheds its leaves, dries out and stops blooming. In particularly hot weather, fuchsia should be taken out onto a loggia or balcony, avoiding direct sunlight, which can lead to the death of the flower. To protect the sensitive roots of the plant from overheating, it is advisable to use ceramic pot large size (plastic containers get very hot).

– lighting All types of fuchsia prefer bright, diffused light. They should be grown on the east (west) window of the room or in the garden in comfortable partial shade. This culture does not tolerate the heat of the day, but can easily withstand morning (evening) sun rays. But the flowering plant can no longer be rearranged or rotated: this can lead to the fall of all the flowers and buds.

– watering fuchsia spring-autumn period- abundant - as the top layer of the substrate dries; in winter - moderate. For irrigation, it would be better to use soft, settled water. By the end of the growing season, watering is noticeably reduced, and by October-November it practically stops. In low temperatures, indoor fuchsia plants are usually watered 1-2 times a month.

– air humidity During the growth period, the leaves are sprayed with a spray bottle in the morning and evening, or, to transmit more humidity, a decorative bowl with pebbles filled with water is placed next to the pot. In autumn and winter, excess moisture in fuchsia is contraindicated, so spraying is stopped during this period.

– fertilizing fuchsia For open ground, biofertilizers are most effective; as for indoors, here you can use any ready-made fertilizers intended for domestic flowering plants. Frequent feeding (once a week) is recommended from the end of March; in winter, fuchsias are not fed.

– soil and replanting Fuchsias are replanted annually and always in the spring. For this purpose, use special substrates from the store or any fertile soil, not forgetting about drainage. Sand and humus are recommended as useful additives, and when growing on a balcony, loam, which retains water well.

– pruning fuchsia The more often fuchsia is pruned, the thicker its foliage. Most suitable option for growing fuchsia - a regular pot or hanging basket. When several multi-colored varieties are planted together at once, the result is a real floral fireworks display.

Fuchsia propagation and care at home

– propagation by cuttings This process of fuchsia cuttings is carried out in February or March, sometimes in August-September (for slow-growing varieties). Cuttings 5-7 cm long are rooted in sand, water or any suitable loose substrate. Already on the 20-25th day, roots are formed, and the seedlings are transferred to 7-9 cm pots. The composition of the soil mixture is sand, humus, leaf and turf soil in equal proportions. To obtain a lush bush, cuttings should be planted several at once in one pot. The young growth blooms the same year.

– propagation by seedsFor seed maturation, artificial (cross) pollination is required. By mixing different varieties of fuchsias yourself, you can get new hybrids that delight the eye with a kaleidoscope of new colors.

– propagation by leaves The stems, together with the most developed leaves, are torn from the “mother” and placed in soft soil to a depth of 1 cm, after which they are covered with a plastic (glass) lid. For their growth, daily spraying from a spray bottle with warm water is necessary. boiled water. Further transplantation into containers (pots) is possible when small rosettes appear at the base of the stem.

Possible problems with fuchsia leaves, diseases and pests

Problems arise most often due to improper care. Fuchsias rarely get sick, and among the pests it is most worried about white flies (from the moth family). Concerning external signs unhealthy appearance, then they allow you to correctly adjust the conditions of the plant:

Houseplants

Fuchsia

Fuchsia is a popular beautiful indoor plant, native to America, Tahiti, and New Zealand, also called “ballerina” for the shape of its petals, and was named in honor of the botanist L. Fuchs. Due to its unpretentiousness and ease of care, it is ideal for beginning gardeners. All that is needed to ensure good growth and flowering of this flower is to follow a few rules.

Fuchsia care

The main task is to choose the right place to place the flower in the room. This dislocation must be permanent, since fuchsia is sensitive to any rearrangements, it grows poorly and sheds its leaves if disturbed. It is better to choose a moderately lit place to place fuchsia: the best option is bright, diffused (in no case direct) sunlight.

If there are problems with the supply of sunlight, fuchsia also feels great in artificial light. Regular fluorescent lamps are suitable for this purpose. If fuchsia lacks light, it will grow taller, but will not bloom.

The optimal temperature for keeping fuchsia in summer is 18-20 degrees. She is sensitive to too high temperatures. If possible, in summer it is better to take this flower outside. Fuchsias tolerate winter better at temperatures of 8-10 degrees. To provide them with such conditions, you can keep them in the kitchen.

Fuchsia is watered regularly both in summer and winter: in the warm season - quite abundantly, and in winter - moderately. But even abundant watering does not mean excessive watering - you should not overwater fuchsia. Water it when the soil dries completely. Moreover, since fuchsias are loved high humidity air, watering alternates with spraying and washing. The water used for irrigation and spraying should be at room temperature and settled.

Plant nutrition

One of the mandatory conditions for caring for fuchsia is fertilizer, since if it lacks certain microelements, it will not bloom well. However, you can’t go overboard in this regard either - with excess fertilization, fuchsia can grow very actively and produce few and weak flowers. The best option is to feed twice a month with balanced fertilizers. You can use fertilizers for pelargoniums. In winter, it is better not to feed flowers.

Replanting and pruning fuchsia

Caring for fuchsias must necessarily include regular pruning or, to be more precise, pinching. This promotes more active, harmonious growth of the plant and makes it healthier. The first time they pinch immediately after the cuttings have rooted, then they do this constantly, preferably in the spring, before flowering begins. A beautiful plant shape is obtained if the side branches are evenly trimmed after 3-4 pairs of leaves. There are other methods of pinching, but in any case, before this procedure you need to wait until the shoots grow a little.

Fuchsias are undemanding when it comes to replanting: they should be replanted when the pot becomes too crowded. If the roots begin to crawl out of the drainage hole, it means there is not enough space for them and you need to take a larger pot. Fuchsias are not picky about the quality of the pot; it is selected in the same way as for other flowers, the main thing is that it has good drainage. The soil for fuchsia should consist of peat, compost and humus soil (take 1 part in total), as well as 2 parts of coarse sand.

To ensure that the plant blooms well, you can also add bone or horn meal (about a tablespoon per 1 liter of mixture). You can prepare this composition yourself, or you can buy a ready-made mixture.

Fuchsia propagation

Fuchsia propagates by cuttings and seeds. Propagation by cuttings is best done at the same time as pruning. To root the cutting, it is immersed in water (this applies more to “adult” cuttings) or in soil consisting of a mixture of wet sand and vermiculite.

The rooting process can vary in time: from 3 days to a month, and even more. During rooting, the cuttings are periodically sprayed. To propagate by seeds, they are placed in soil made of sand and vermiculite.

It is known that, growing in its homeland, fuchsia produces completely edible berries, which, however, are quite difficult to obtain indoors. Although dishes are often decorated with flowers of this plant, which, by the way, are also quite edible.

Hybrid varieties of fuchsia are grown at home

The favorite name of many women is simply called fuchsia. This beauty comes from South America, belongs to the fireweed family and has about a hundred species. The most common is fuchsia with purple flowers.

It is named after the German botanist Fuchs.

According to amateur flower growers, even a beginner in home floriculture can grow fuchsia at home, since it is not capricious. The main thing is to follow the basic recommendations for caring for it.

Caring for fuchsia at home

Lighting: fuchsia – light-loving home flower. the best place for it will be the western and eastern windows. You can also try a north window, but there the plant will not bloom so abundantly or often. It is necessary to protect fuchsia from drafts. You should also avoid frequent changes of place, this leads to shedding of the buds.

Double fuchsia flowers

Temperature: the optimal temperature for summer is +20°C; in winter, the plant should be kept in a cooler room at 8-10°C. At high temperatures, fuchsia begins to ache and drop buds and leaves.

Watering: from the end of March to the end of September, the flower requires abundant watering; the earthen ball must be constantly moist. From October, watering is reduced, and from the beginning of December it is almost stopped (for abundant flowering next year). In winter, at temperatures up to 10 degrees, fuchsia is watered rarely, and at temperatures above 10 degrees - a little more often.

Fertilizers: fuchsia at home requires monthly feeding from March to September. A complex fertilizer for house flowers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus is most suitable for it.

Humidity: the flower loves high air humidity, so in the summer it should be sprayed in the morning and evening with settled water. In spring and autumn this is done once every three days; in winter they are not sprayed at all.

Reproduction: fuchsia is propagated at home by seeds and cuttings.

Fuchsia flowers at home appear on new shoots

Transplantation: done annually at the end of March. Before this, the old shoots are cut by a third and the roots are shortened slightly.

Fuchsia care

First of all, clearly decide on the place in the house where you will place your beauty. It is very important. The fact is that she really doesn’t like being rearranged and turned, this can cause the flowers to drop (by analogy with the Decembrist, for example). The place of detention must be sufficiently lit. She loves bright, diffused light, but without direct sunlight. It should be noted that sunlight is not at all necessary for the plant; it develops well under artificial light. For this you can use ordinary fluorescent lamps. With a lack of light, fuchsia stretches out and does not bloom.

The temperature in summer is normal room temperature (18-20 degrees). But the summer heat, which has become common in recent years, is dangerous for her. If possible, take the fuchsia flower out into the fresh air in the summer. In winter, it definitely needs a lower temperature (8-10 degrees). And this is perhaps the only difficulty that a city dweller may encounter. But this is a completely solvable problem. Many housewives successfully raise ballerinas in the kitchen, where they spend the winter wonderfully. And this is not nonsense, read “Temperature for indoor plants” and “Plants in the heat”, I hope these tips will help you.

Fuchsia should be watered regularly and abundantly in the summer and moderately, but just as regularly, in the winter. But! Regular and abundant watering does not mean that the plant needs to be flooded! This flower should be watered only after the soil dries. Indoor fuchsia is a plant that loves high air humidity, so watering can (and should) be alternated with spraying and washing. Let me remind you that water for irrigation and spraying should be well settled and at room temperature.

Fertilizer must be taken seriously. Not getting the right amount essential microelements, it is unlikely to bloom normally. But, as with everything, when using fertilizers you need to know when to stop. By overfeeding a flower, you can get a lush green mass and a couple of stunted flowers. Therefore, it should be fertilized once every two weeks with a well-balanced fertilizer for flowering plants ( good result gives fertilizer for pelargoniums), you can use “Kemira”, “Peters” and the like. In winter, stop fertilizing.

Full care for fuchsia is unthinkable without regular pruning. Pruning will not only make your plant more beautiful, but also stronger and healthier. "Cutting" - in in this case, not quite the correct term, shoots need to be pinched. Pinching begins at the stage of a recently rooted cutting and continues throughout the life of the plant. It is best to do pinching in the spring, before flowering. To get a beautiful bush, pinch all the side branches after about 3-4 pairs of leaves. To get an ampelous (hanging) look, you can choose your own method. But even in this you need to know when to stop, don’t get too carried away, let the shoots grow.

Transplantation is carried out mainly as needed, when the roots in the pot become crowded (they climb out through the drainage holes). The rules for selecting a pot when replanting for fuchsia are the same as for most plants. Good drainage is very important, which will prevent the soil from stagnating. You can buy ready-made soil for replanting fuchsia, or you can prepare it yourself, which is preferable. To do this, you need to take one part of peat, compost soil, humus soil and mix with two parts of coarse sand. For good flowering, you can add a little bone or horn meal (a tablespoon per liter of mixture).

Fuchsia can be propagated by cuttings at any time, but it is better to combine it with pruning. Cuttings are rooted in water or a mixture of wet sand and vermiculite. If the cutting is “mature” enough, then it is better to root it in water, and the young, green one – in the ground. The rooting period depends on many factors and can be completely different, from 3 days to one month or more. It is advisable to spray rooted cuttings from time to time. It also reproduces by seeds, in the same mixture of sand and vermiculite.

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Fuchsia – tree shrub or a small tree with beautiful flowers of various colors and shapes. It is so popular among gardeners that it is grown all over the world. This beauty comes from South America and New Zealand. Growing and caring for fuchsia in the garden does not cause much trouble if you choose the right planting site.

Fuchsia: features of growing in the garden

If you choose the right planting location, fuchsia will grow well in the garden.

But you need to take into account some of its features:

1. Fuchsia loves semi-shaded areas with neutral soil acidity.
2. It is better to plant where direct sunlight falls only in the mornings and evenings.
3. Young plants are planted in open ground in May or June.

Outdoor care

It is advisable to water it only in the driest periods, and fertilize it 1-2 times during the summer with complex fertilizers for flowers.

In autumn, fuchsia is pruned and prepared for a long winter.

Trim the bush to give the desired shape and enhance flowering. During the warm season, crown formation may be required only if the goal is to grow a shrub, and the plant stubbornly strives to take on the shape of a tree.

How to care in winter?

In central Russia, during frosty winters, the fuchsia flower may suffer.

Features for caring for fuchsia in winter:

• At the end of autumn, the stems are cut back heavily, leaving 20-40 cm above the ground, and covered for the winter.
• For shelter, spruce branches, tree branches, dry leaves, fragments of polyethylene, and tarpaulin are used.
• It is advisable to cover the dormant fuchsia with snow as soon as possible.
• In April, the shelter can be partially disassembled and completely removed in May with the onset of warm days.
• Indoor fuchsia is transferred to a cold room in winter and watered only as the top layer of the earthen clod dries.

The nuances of growing fuchsia at home

If certain conditions are met, the plant can be grown at home on a windowsill.

Growing nuances:

1. Temperature is of greatest importance. Fuchsia, unlike other indoor plants, loves slight coolness in summer and cold wintering from December to February. The optimal temperature for its growth is 18-20 degrees, and the permissible temperature is up to +23. In a warmer room it sheds its leaves and flowers. On hot July days, it is almost impossible to ensure such a temperature on the windowsill, unless you turn on the air conditioning.
2. The fuchsia flower is quite shade-tolerant, so it can be placed on eastern, western, north-eastern and north-western windows, where, by the way, it is not so hot in summer. On window sills oriented exactly north, it may lack light a little.
3. Flowering ends in November. At this time, it can be moved to a cold room. In winter, fuchsias are kept on the balcony at a temperature of 6-10 degrees. Under such conditions, photosynthesis processes slow down, so the plant no longer needs good lighting. For a short time (up to a month) it can be stored in complete darkness.
4. Watering is done less frequently and is carried out only as the earthen clod dries out. Over-watering can lead to rotting of the root system.

If you provide everything necessary, the plant will bloom from mid-spring to mid-autumn.

Important! You should not turn the pot with a flower in order to correct its crown - it loves constancy.

Houseplant care

Caring for this plant can be divided into 3 main stages:

• Watering. Fuchsias love watering. Their frequency is determined by many factors, the main one of which is the rate of soil drying. And this, in turn, depends on air humidity, the volume of the root system, the coverage of the earthen coma with roots, the time of year, etc. General principle like this: you should water it when the top layer of soil dries out. The pot must have a drainage hole, and the volume of water must be calculated so that it saturates the entire earthen lump and appears on the tray. In other words, water not very often, but generously. In the cold, evaporation decreases, so watering is reduced, sometimes up to twice a month, and in the summer - increased.
• Feeding. Adult specimens are fed only in the warm season with a frequency of 1-2 times a month. For these purposes, you can purchase universal organic fertilizers for indoor plants or decorative flowers. You should not fertilize crops that are too young or those that have recently been transplanted into new soil or into a pot with a larger capacity.
• Air humidity is quite important. Many amateur gardeners spray plants with a spray bottle to increase humidity. In reality, this is an ineffective technique, since the water evaporates in 15 minutes. Others place bowls of water around the pots. This option is better, but not the most rational, because to humidify the air by at least 10% you will have to use them on the entire window sill. The best solution is to place fuchsia among a large number of other indoor plants, because green leaves evaporate a lot of moisture during the growing season. To increase the effect, moss can be placed in large pots, the spores of which are easy to find on sale.

Important! If you provide fuchsia with everything it needs, it will bloom from mid-spring to mid-autumn.

Flower propagation

The most affordable and easiest way to propagate fuchsia is by cuttings. For this purpose, young shoots 10-20 cm long should be taken. The lower leaves are removed from them by about half the height. Leaves that are too large are also cut off or shortened by half. The cuttings are placed in a container with water and hermetically covered with plastic film or transparent plastic cup. Those who like to experiment can also root them in coarse river sand or vermiculite. After 1-2 weeks you can expect roots to appear. After this, you need to make a hole in the covering film to begin to accustom the seedlings to dry air. Wait another week until their length reaches 2-3 centimeters, after which the cuttings can be planted in small pots.

The soil for fuchsias needs light, loose, rich in organic matter. You can purchase universal soil for indoor plants and dilute it with garden soil. If the resulting substrate does not seem light enough and moisture-permeable enough, you can add perlite, vermiculite, coconut shavings or sawdust (preferably pine).

Types for open ground and home conditions

For indoor floriculture, breeders specially bred dwarf fuchsia bush varieties.

There are about a hundred species of them, differing in shape and color of flowers, but the popular ones include:

• Three-leaved;
• Waist;
• Anita;
• Carolina;
• Ampelous.

The last of them has many clone varieties, which were even separated into a separate category - ampelous.

For open ground, cold-resistant varieties of fuchsias are used: Graceful, Ricarton, Maggelanskaya. If desired, outdoor varieties can also be grown at home, just keep in mind that their height can reach 1-1.5 meters.

Diseases, pests in garden conditions and at home

Fuchsia is a favorite treat for aphids, whiteflies and spider mites. Fungal diseases that affect it include gray rot and rust.

• Whitefly or aphid. If these pests have settled on a green pet, then you can consider that you got off easy. You can remove them with any drug whose packaging indicates that it is an insecticide. It is more difficult to defeat spider mites. The latter most often affects indoor plants, while aphids and whiteflies prefer open ground.
• Among spider mites the most common is its red variety. Insects look like small red dots on the surface of leaves. If you sprinkle them with fine water dust, they will begin to move. One of the most affordable tick medications is Fitoverm. It only makes sense to use it only at the initial stages of tick reproduction, since with a large population of the pest there is a high probability of the appearance of individuals resistant to this product. Fitoverm is applied at twice the concentration recommended on the packaging. After a week, spraying is repeated, even when it seems that the tick is no longer there. If after a month the tick is not detected, then there is hope that it was defeated.
• If the pest has managed to multiply and has taken a liking to not only fuchsia, but also other plants, then more powerful tools: Sunmite, Omite, Neoron, Oberon, Bitoxibalicin. These drugs have a moderately toxic effect on the human body, so after treatment you should not linger around the plant for a long time. It is better to put it in a room where no one will enter for 10-12 hours. But even in the most advanced cases, the tick is eliminated forever after just one spraying.
• Rust- a fungal disease that is easy to diagnose by the appearance of the leaves: they seem to be covered with rust. You can stop its spread using Bordeaux mixture or other fungicides.
• Gray rot looks like gray-brown spots on the stem or a light light gray coating on the leaves, especially young ones. If you do not fight it, then in the future the color of the affected areas becomes darker. Severely damaged leaves are cut off, and plants, including healthy ones in the neighborhood, are treated with Fitosporin or Bordeaux mixture.

What problems may flower growers encounter?

When growing Fuchsia, problems sometimes arise:

• The main difficulty is ensuring coolness in the summer. In open ground, fuchsia is planted in the shade, and in apartments it is placed on windows that do not face south. If a fuchsia's flowers, leaves, and stem tips become drooping for no apparent reason, it is likely suffering from excess heat. If possible, it should be moved to a cool room or transplanted to another place.
• The second difficulty is finding a suitable room for cold wintering if the plant is indoors, or taking measures to prevent the tree from freezing in the open ground during the frosty months. In the latter case, the issue is resolved by selecting a frost-resistant variety and sheltering for the winter.

Despite some quite solvable difficulties, gardeners and flower growers around the world strive to propagate fuchsia. And this is not surprising, because she is so beautiful! And everyone can join this splendor.

Beautifully flowering indoor plants are very popular, because with their help you can decorate any room, making it brighter and more original. One of the excellent options is the bushes, stems and inflorescences of a plant such as fuchsia - the cultivation and care of which at home will require special attention. You can grow it not only at home, but also in the open ground.

Achieving active flowering when growing at home is not as difficult as it might initially seem. Fuchsia itself is a tall shrub with a lush crown, which, when blooming profusely, is covered with flowers that delight in a variety of shapes and colors. Proper care requires compliance temperature regime, certain air humidity, lighting, fertilizing and watering. In winter, the plant needs rest. Keeping it cool at this time of year will ensure that the fuchsia will bloom profusely in the summer.

Reproduction of fuchsia requires a serious and competent approach, proper watering, transplantation and other equally important components. This lush bush grows primarily in the mountainous regions of South and Central America, although some varieties are even native to New Zealand. Favorable conditions for it are considered to be humid and cool air, fog and partial shade. Depending on their growth, fuchsias are distinguished as ampelous, bush and ampelous-bush varieties. The most popular varieties, among which there are plants with double, elongated scarlet flowers, are:

• Armbrough Campbell;
• Alisson Bell;
• Anabel;
• Blue Angel;
• Henriette Ernst;
• Imperial Crown;
• Prince of Peace;
• Waist;
• Hollies Beauty.

Fuchsia can grow on almost any soil, but the soil moisture where you plan to plant this brightly flowering bush should not be low. Wet soil during the growing season is a necessity, so make sure that the soil does not dry out. Before planting the seedling, fill the pot with a universal soil mixture. The plant feels best in soil with a loose structure, for which it does not hurt to add sand, ash or peat to the container. Sometimes, due to changing conditions, this lush flowering plant sheds its buds.

The favorable temperature for the growth of this indoor plant, be it hybrid fuchsia, Anabelle, Blue Angel or some other variety, is considered to be 18-25°C, i.e. almost room temperature. The plant grows especially well in the summer, when it is 30°C outside, but the bush does not tolerate heat very well. Fuchsia prefers partial shade, because direct sunlight leads to its complete death.

Before planting seeds or cuttings, take care to maintain optimal humidity levels. Spray the leaves with water using a spray bottle twice a day; this procedure is not required in winter and autumn. To increase humidity in spring and especially in winter, place a container next to the bush, first filling it with water and pebbles.

Fuchsia is preferred by lovers of indoor floriculture, who decorate their window sills with plants with beautiful flowers. It is better to keep it on a northwestern, northeastern or eastern window. If there is a lack of light on the north side, then the plant’s flowering intensity decreases, but if the sun is strong, then the color of the fuchsia leaves becomes paler. Sometimes gardeners place it on a south window, but in this case the plant should be covered with paper.

Fuchsia, as a rule, is watered abundantly, especially if the soil begins to dry out significantly. In the summer, you need to moisturize your indoor plant almost every day. True, excessive watering can negatively affect its condition, because... this will lead to rotting of the roots, a sign of which is the withering of the leaves and a change in their shade. The key to successful cultivation is correct selection substrate. In winter, fuchsia is watered much less - up to a couple of times a month, if the temperature is below 0°C. Even if the plant is in the cold, the soil should not dry out completely.

For this lush bush, it is best to use good drainage, which prevents stagnation of moisture, and a loose substrate. As for feeding, use ready-made products from specialized stores. In summer, apply it every week, and in winter, fuchsia practically stops feeding. In the spring, before the plant begins to bloom, introduce complex fertilizers with sufficient nitrogen content. As fuchsia begins to bloom, you will need to increase their potassium and phosphorus content.

Before sending the plant for winter, be sure to prune it. Many people carry out this procedure in early spring, but you can prune fuchsia in the fall. At first, perform strong pruning, leaving shoots approximately 15 cm long. If the crowns are already formed, then reduce the pruning to removing weak shoots, thinning and shortening the remaining ones by 1/3 of their height. Later, to form a standard tree, shoots are pinched in certain places.

When replanting a plant that has spent a warm winter, there is no need to remove the entire substrate, because this can damage the root system. It is better to lightly shake off the old soil, place the roots in a large container and add fresh substrate. It is best to replant in January-February so that the fuchsia has time to grow roots and form a vegetative mass before flowering. If the plant overwintered in the basement and has almost no vegetative mass, you can shake off the soil.

Fuchsia, which blooms profusely, is propagated by green cuttings, seeds and leaves. If you prefer propagation by cuttings, choose 5-8 cm stem cuttings, which need to be planted several times in containers with a diameter of 12 cm. Next, place the pots in a mini-greenhouse for further germination. Rooting of cuttings is often carried out using water, adding to it Activated carbon. The top of the container must be covered with polyethylene; remove it periodically for ventilation. Wait until the roots grow to 1.5-2 cm and start planting the cuttings.

When propagated by seeds, seedlings appear after about 50 days. For seeds you will need to prepare a mixture of peat and sand. After a month, the seedlings should be plucked, after which 5-6 seedlings should be planted in pots, not forgetting to pinch their tops for better branching. In addition, you can practice standard growing, giving each bush a certain shape through regular pruning. In the third method of propagation, remove the more developed leaves and stems from the mother plant, plant them in soft soil and cover them with plastic.

Fuchsia - when growing and caring for this shrub at home, be extremely careful, because it is susceptible to attack by pests. One of the most dangerous is the whitefly. The presence of this insect is indicated by sticky leaves and a swarm of small white butterflies. To fight, a solution of laundry soap and alcohol is often used to wipe the leaves of the bush. Fuchsia is often affected by spider mites, aphids, and sometimes even gray rot.

To successfully propagate a flower, proper wintering is important, even if you use hybrid varieties. A cool winter is a guarantee that the plant will have bright and lush flowers in summer. Some gardeners carry out cuttings in winter. To do this, rooted cuttings are placed in small pots on a cool balcony/veranda, where they spend the winter.

If a basement is used to store the flower, then in late autumn the bush is dug up, after which the shoots are cut off and treated with a fungicide. In winter, the amount of water must be reduced, and in October-November it is necessary to water when the lump of earth has not yet completely dried out. At low temperatures, you need to water no more than 1-2 times a month. The room temperature should be 8-10°C so that the fuchsia can rest before flowering.

Anastasia, 30 years old

I have been growing fuchsia at home for several years. Among the advantages of the plant, I want to highlight not only the splendor and beautiful colors, but also the minimum of care. Until spring I kept the plant on the windowsills, constantly turning the pot, but the unopened buds dropped. With the onset of warm days, I settled her on the open veranda.

I recently had a fuchsia that was given to me by one of my relatives. The plant impressed with its abundant flowering and beautiful buds, but it turned out to be finicky, so caring for it is very troublesome. The plant is sensitive to watering and temperature: overwatering and direct sunlight are dangerous for it.

I really liked fuchsia, so I bought several pots with this lush flower. I note the long and beautiful flowering, but the bush turned out to be very demanding to care for, it is often susceptible to attack by pests. Often spider mites and whiteflies settle on the leaves. She processed it immediately.

Fuchsia (lat. Fuchsia)- a genus of perennials of the fireweed family, numbering about 100 species. In nature, the fuchsia flower is found in South and Central America, as well as in New Zealand, and is an evergreen shrub. The fuchsia plant received its name in honor of one of the “fathers of botany” Leonard von Fuchs. Indoor fuchsia, cultivated for over 200 years, is a hybrid fuchsia and its many forms and varieties. It has long been loved by flower growers, who affectionately call it the “Japanese lantern.”

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In nature, fuchsia looks like a shrub with flexible branches. Fuchsia leaves, green or slightly reddish, oval, opposite, slightly pointed and jagged at the edges. Fuchsia blooms profusely and for a long time with drooping flowers, consisting of a bright calyx and a tubular corolla with bent edges. The calyx lobes are longer than the petals, and the stamens are longer than the calyx. Fuchsia flowers are on long stalks, the color of the flowers is pink, white, red, orange, cream, lilac, violet - sometimes three different shades per flower. The fruit is an edible berry.

The plant is so plastic that it can be given any shape - ampelous, bushy, pyramidal, or grown as a standard tree. Additionally, different fuchsia varieties bloom at different times with different colors of flowers, giving you the opportunity to create a collection of fuchsias that will bloom from early spring to late fall. Fuchsias differ in flowering time, flower color and type. For example: flowers are simple (not double), varieties: Brutus, Winston Churchill, Bon Accord; semi-double flowers, varieties: Tennessee Walts, Snowcup, Satellite; terry – Midge, Swingtime, Fashion; racemes - Leverkusen, Swanley Yellow.

How to care for fuchsia at home.

Caring for fuchsia at home is surprisingly simple. It should be remembered that fuchsia prefers cool rooms in which the temperature does not rise above 20 ºC. In summer. In winter, the temperature should not exceed 15 ºC. The best place that fuchsia could occupy at home is an eastern or northern window sill. If the apartment is too stuffy in the summer, it is better to take the plant out onto the balcony or into the yard and find a well-lit place for it, where the sun's rays reach only in the morning. At noon and until evening, fuchsia prefers partial shade. Watering should be regular and sufficient during the period of growth and flowering. You need to water after the top layer of soil has dried, but make sure that there is no stagnation of moisture in the roots. Water for irrigation must be settled or filtered. In late autumn, watering is reduced, and in winter they are watered 1-2 times a month. To avoid overheating of the roots in the summer heat, it would be a good idea to grow fuchsia in a thick ceramic pot. Spraying your beauty with water in the summer will greatly refresh your beauty; you can also achieve the required air humidity by placing a pot of fuchsia on a tray with wet pebbles.

Fuchsias growing in open ground are best fed with biological fertilizers. Fuchsia at home responds well to fertilizing with ready-made complex fertilizers for flowering plants, which are applied once every two weeks during the growing season. These fertilizers, as a rule, do not have a nitrogen component or it is very insignificant. In the winter months, a dormant period begins, and the plant will not need feeding.

Fuchsia needs annual replanting, which is carried out in the spring. The substrate used is a mixture of turf, leaf soil, peat, sand and humus in equal parts. A drainage layer, for example, made of expanded clay, is required. It is best to replant fuchsia using the transfer method: pour a little soil mixture into the pot on the drainage layer, then transfer the plant there along with a lump of earth, then fill the voids with the soil mixture. The transplanted fuchsia is placed in a well-lit place, the stems are cut to one third of the length, sprayed and watered well. If you do everything right, fuchsia will bloom profusely.

Experts suggest pruning indoor fuchsia twice a year: at the end of the growing season - in early October, and in winter - at the very beginning of January. The first pruning involves removing all faded branches at a height of 2 cm from the dormant buds located in the axils, which are easy to detect by carefully examining each branch. After pruning, you can begin removing pests, seed pods you don't want, and spent flower stalks. The second pruning is carried out in January and represents the final formation of the plant crown.

Propagation of fuchsia by seeds.

Fuchsia grown from seeds rarely retains the characteristics of the original plant, so this method is interesting only for those gardeners who are keen on breeding experiments. The complexity of this method lies in the need to exclude self-pollination of fuchsia and pollination of the plant by insects. To do this, the anthers of the still unopened flower are removed, and the pollen of the parent plant is applied to the stigma of the pistil. After this, a cover is put on the flower to isolate it from insects. You can make a cover from paper or fabric, securing it below the flower with threads. When the fruit is ripe, it is carefully cut, the seeds are removed and dried for a day or two. Fuchsia seeds are sown on top of a moist substrate without covering it, then the container is placed in a greenhouse and kept in good light and room temperature. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks, after one and a half to two months the seedlings are planted more spaciously (dive), and after another couple of months the young plants are planted in separate pots. Accustom seedlings to environment it is necessary gradually, opening the greenhouse slightly for a while, otherwise unadapted seedlings may die after being placed in normal room conditions.

And yet the most reliable way Propagation of fuchsia is vegetative, namely by cuttings, since it can be used at any time of the year, but it is still wiser to propagate fuchsia in the spring. It is best to take young cuttings, since woody cuttings take root and grow for too long. The length of the cutting should be on average 10-20 cm, the leaves at the bottom of the cutting are removed, the remaining ones are shortened by half. Use filtered water for rooting and cover the cuttings placed in the water. plastic bag or a plastic bottle. The roots of the cuttings may appear as early as the fourth day, or even on the tenth. Do not wait until long roots grow; plant the cuttings in the substrate as soon as the first young roots appear. There are daredevils among flower growers who plant fuchsia cuttings in the ground immediately, bypassing the stage of rooting them in water. But greenhouse conditions must be created for cuttings in any case.

Fuchsia in winter gradually moves into a dormant period, which is necessary for almost any plant. If she rests fully and restores her wasted strength, then you can hope for abundant and long flowering next year. To prepare the plant for rest, it is necessary to gradually reduce watering of the fuchsia, stop applying fertilizers and, finally, move the pot with the plant to a cooler room with an air temperature of 10-15ºC, where the fuchsia will overwinter. In an ordinary city apartment, a loggia or balcony can be used as such a room, provided that they are covered with glazed frames and insulated.

Be sure to prune the plant and eradicate pests before hibernation. If you are worried that the fuchsia will be cold, insulate the flowerpot with foam or place it in a box with sawdust. Fuchsia can overwinter in the cellar, and even in the garage, since it does not care whether light enters the room during this period or whether it is completely dark. But if your fuchsia has to spend the winter on a windowsill in a well-heated room, then you can hardly expect it to quickly take on the necessary shape in the spring and make you happy with unprecedented flowering. Fuchsia is an unpretentious plant, but it requires love and care like any other. Therefore, if you condemn an ​​exotic plant to winter hard labor on the windowsill, you will have to make sacrifices and keep the glass unit in the “ventilation” position almost around the clock.

Philodendron at home

Amaryllis after flowering

A couple of years ago, walking through the park. Ostrovsky with the children, I noticed that near the flower bed someone had placed two pots with the “remains” of flowers.

Oleander - description Oleander (lat. Nerium) - belongs to the Kutrov family and includes (depending on the sources) from three to ten species of plants. .

Thunbergia liana (lat. Thunbergia) belongs to the genus of flowering plants of the Acanthaceae family, native to the tropics of Africa, Madagascar and southern Asia. Total in.

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The tropical guest, fuchsia, has so charmed lovers of indoor flowering plants that today it has many cultivated varieties and hybrids. Fans of fuchsia call it the prima in the “theater” of flowers for the unusual shapes and colors of the buds, lush flowering, which invariably pleases the eye of even the most demanding critic.

Essentially, fuchsias are small trees (no more than 1 m tall) or shrubs with thin flexible branches. Therefore, fuchsia can be grown upright (standard tree), bush or hanging plant.

It’s not for nothing that flower growers admire fuchsia so much. She is beautiful not only in appearance. The resulting hybrid has a light character and extreme unpretentiousness. It contains all the best qualities that a flower can have. The most valuable of them is the ability to flower in the first year of life.

Fuchsia blooms beautifully from early spring until the first frost. Moreover, it feels equally good both in a flower pot and in a garden bed. In winter, the flower needs a good rest.

Breeding fuchsia does not require much labor or special knowledge. However, there are some subtleties in care.

To get a strong, healthy plant you need to choose correct soil and a pot. It is best to plant in light-colored pots. This is explained by the fact that fuchsia does not tolerate heat very well, and such a pot does not heat up in the sun as much as a dark one.

Fuchsia prefers a cramped pot; it is better to gradually transplant it into a more spacious one. Although good air circulation is very important for this indoor plant, it is still advisable to compact the soil so that it supports the flower. Be sure to line the bottom of the pot with expanded clay for better breathability and moisture.

Fuchsia can be planted by seeds or cuttings. This house flower produces seeds well. A few months after planting, you can get a young plant from the seeds. Cuttings also take root well. Fuchsias can also be propagated using woody stems in a small greenhouse.

It is better to plant cuttings in early summer, and planting woody stems in August. The seeds are planted after the fruit has ripened.

Fuchsia loves loose soil. The optimal composition of the substrate should include equal parts of peat, sand, humus, leaf and turf soil. The soil must be neutral.

Features of caring for indoor fuchsia flowers at home

There are several nuances in caring for this indoor plant, which the gardener needs to know about in order to get the desired result - a lush and long-blooming flower.

The placement of the fuchsia determines the color of its flowers. The buds of delicate flowers tolerate bright light less well; it is better for them to create an openwork shadow, while dark flowers prefer more sun. Both of them cannot tolerate direct sunlight - the flowers begin to wither and the leaves begin to burn. Therefore, it is better to place flowers in beds or flowerpots outdoors or on the balcony so that direct sun does not fall on them. If fuchsia lives only in an apartment, the preferred place for it is on the north or east side.

Fuchsia loves a humid atmosphere and absolutely does not tolerate high temperatures. If the plant is located outside, the atmosphere there is most suitable for it. For indoor keeping, daily spraying is necessary. This should be done before sunset. In sunlight, this procedure is contraindicated for the flower.

The optimal temperature is +18 - +24 degrees in summer and +10 - +12 degrees in winter. Keeping it in a warm room during winter may result in the plant not blooming next year.

Since fuchsia is moisture-loving, it needs abundant watering during the flowering period. The water must be defended. The signal for the next watering is the dried top layer of soil. You cannot overwater or allow water to stagnate in the pot, as the roots will quickly begin to rot. In autumn, watering is sharply reduced.

Fuchsia needs to be fed only from the moment it produces its first buds. It is enough to fertilize it once a week or two. For feeding, complex fertilizers for flowering indoor or balcony plants are quite suitable. There is no need to get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers. They need to be added 1-2 times in the spring. Fertilizer is applied in liquid form. Gradually decreases in autumn. In winter, the plant does not need feeding.

Pruning fuchsia is an operation required twice a year. The first time it is carried out at the end of the flowering period - at the end of September or beginning of October - before sending it for the winter. During autumn pruning, all faded peduncles, flowers and leaves are removed. The second pruning is carried out to rejuvenate the plant.

• cut off the faded shoots 2 cm above the dormant buds. They are easy to spot on branches.
• Carefully remove the seed pods, unless propagation by seeds is planned.

During autumn pruning, pests are removed and the plant is treated if necessary.

• Once again we cut off the young shoots that fuchsia is already producing by this time. They are shortened by 2-3 pairs of leaves.
• In ampelous fuchsia, the sprouts are shortened so that they barely hang over the edge of the flowerpot.
• For other types of fuchsia it is simply formed beautiful shape using trimming.

Some gardeners do formative pruning in January.

Replanting, and annual replanting, is mandatory for fuchsias. After wintering, the flower is transplanted into new soil in a larger pot. It is not recommended to use very spacious pots; they are only 2-4 cm wider than the previous one.

Bush and ampel fuchsia should be completely renewed every 4-5 years, since during this time they still lose their shape, despite anti-aging pruning.

Fuchsia is replanted by simple transshipment. To do this, take out the flower with a lump of earth, carefully free the roots from it and transplant it into a new substrate. You can simply replace the top layers of soil at a depth of 3-4 cm. This method can only be used for old flowers. We transplant young plants by transferring them into new pots.

There are several ways to propagate fuchsia, they have slight differences and different purposes. Fuchsia seeds are propagated only by those who like to experiment and create a new hybrid, in other words, exclusively for breeding. It is propagated by cuttings to renew the plant. The best time for cuttings is spring.

Cuttings

Young cuttings from 10 to 20 cm are suitable for this. Before lowering the cutting into water, you need to remove all the lower leaves from the stem so that they do not fall into the water. Otherwise, they will begin to rot and infect the entire cutting. You can cover the sprout with a plastic bag to prevent too much moisture from evaporating. This must be done if the leaves become limp. Fuchsia cuttings very readily sprout roots in water; within a week there may be several of them. You can immediately transplant the cutting into a pot; it will take root well in the soil. On average, the process takes about two weeks.

It is better to immediately plant such cuttings in peat soil and organize a small greenhouse for them. They will take root perfectly right in the ground, although this will take more time - three weeks.

This is due to the fact that if you need to get seeds, you need to protect the fuchsia from pollination. The anthers are removed and a cover made of paper or fabric is put on the flower, secured at the bottom with threads. Then the ripe fruit is removed, the seeds are taken out and dried. Sowing is done superficially; the seeds are not sprinkled with soil. Then the pallet needs to be placed in the greenhouse. After 14 days, shoots appear, and after two months they can be planted in separate pots. Young plants should be gradually accustomed to a normal environment, as they may die.

Blooming fuchsia is very diverse and spectacular, and decorates a house or garden for a long time.

Fuchsia has a long flowering period - from early June to late September. There are some varieties that bloom from April to October and from July to January, so it is difficult to determine the general flowering period for the species.

The shapes and colors are very diverse and depend, again, on the plant variety. Some have cluster-shaped inflorescences, some bloom with individual flowers of an elongated tubular shape, at the end of which new petals constantly open. Flowers can be regular or double. Garden fuchsia differs from hybrid one, and standard trees are not similar to ampelous or bushy fuchsia.

The color of the buds ranges from soft pink to purple-red and violet. Flowers and sepals may have contrasting colors, such as red sepals and white petals. There is even a separate color called “fuchsia”.

Plant care after flowering

After flowering, it is necessary to carefully free the plant from wilted flowers and faded branches. You should also remove the seed pods. To do this, pruning is done, usually in the fall, as described above.

• Root rotting. For all its moisture-loving nature, fuchsia reacts poorly to excess water. This may result in the appearance of fungus on them. In this case, it is very difficult to save the plant. The main symptom is limp leaves that no longer shine. Cuttings from it most likely will not take root.
• Damage to cuttings by blackleg during rooting. There is no need to save them; it is better to get rid of the diseased sprout immediately.
• Rust on leaves- the same actions. We get rid of the plant.

The main pests that fuchsia is afraid of are whiteflies and spider mites. If the damage is only at the very beginning, give the flower a warm bath at +36 - +38 degrees. Then dry it well (not in the sun) and treat the crown and soil with an insecticide. This needs to be done three times once a week. Spray the crown with one of the contact preparations and place in a plastic bag. Dry it well again and water the soil with the same preparation, but diluted in water twice. You can use Agravertin or Fitoverm.

One of the most beautiful fuchsias, ampelous. The flowers are purple with red sepals. A variety of semi-double fuchsias.

Can be grown as a bush or as a hanging tree. It has rather large double flowers of a slightly pinkish color.

Bush form. The buds are round with a terry skirt and red sepals. The flower itself is white with pink splashes.

An ampelous variety with large, double, round-shaped flowers. Contrasting flower - pink sepals and purple petals.

A bush fuchsia with large flowers, elongated buds and slightly varying shades of pink sepals and petals.

The most popular varieties for indoor plants are hybrid fuchsia, graceful fuchsia and brilliant fuchsia.

The main difficulty in caring for fuchsia is maintaining the temperature regime in the summer, especially when it is hot. The root system of the plant begins to die due to overheating of the soil in the pots.

• Try to use a ceramic pot for fuchsia. It heats up less in hot weather
• Take the flowers deep into the room during the hottest time of the day or create good shade for it
• You can freeze a lot of ice and cover a flower pot with it in hot weather.

Fuchsia is a long-lived plant. Varieties with lignified stems live a long time. With proper care, they can bloom for up to 20 years. Canopy and bush ones - up to 4-5 years, then they require updating.

This plant can be called both indoor and garden with equal success. After the last frost is over, it is easier to keep it outdoors, although you can create for it good conditions and in the apartment.

Fuchsia is a non-poisonous plant.

Lack of fuchsia flowering can be the result of several care errors:

• Wintering too warm
• Plant overheating
• Overfeeding with fertilizers (late flowering)
• Late pruning and pinching
• Pot too big
• Unsuitable soil
• Excessive watering and death of the root system

• Perhaps this is autumn leaf fall - a natural process for fuchsia
• The presence of a pest, in particular spider mites
• Too little light

Fuchsia may lose flowers when it is very hot. Or this is a natural process when new buds appear in place of old buds.

In winter, fuchsia needs to create conditions with a fairly low temperature from +10 to +12 degrees. In a warmer room it will not be completely dormant and may not bloom later. If it is not possible to keep it on a loggia or in another room with a low temperature, you need to protect it as much as possible from the heat of radiators and sunlight.

Fuchsia(Fuchsia) – small plant, an evergreen shrub from the fireweed family native to South America. There are about 2 thousand varieties.

This charming flower is named after the German botanist Leonard Fuchs, who spent a lot of time growing and breeding new varieties and hybrids.

Because of the unique elegant flower shape and unpretentiousness to the conditions of maintenance, this charming flower has long and firmly won the hearts of thousands of amateur flower growers.

Diversity its colors and shades are simply amazing: from snow-white to lilac, crimson, soft lilac and pink; from cool and warm, to defiantly screaming “chemical” shades; from simple to terry. There is no person in the world who could indifferently pass by such a miracle of nature!

That's just many flower growers They admit that having heard about the difficulties of caring for fuchsias in winter, they do not dare to have them at home. But, of course, there is a way to preserve these delicate plants during the dormant period, developed by the experience of many generations of passionate and creative people.

We will tell you how to care for fuchsias that winter in an apartment, and those that go to winter in rooms with low temperatures - on glazed loggias or balconies.

Wintering on the loggia

In different regions of our country, real autumn with cold temperatures, piercing winds and persistent night frosts occurs at different times.

When it becomes obvious that the Indian summer is over and the warmth will not return, start preparation for wintering from the insulation of a glazed balcony or loggia.

Close the vents and windows tightly, seal them in the same way as you do in the apartment. Of course, owners of loggias with double-glazed windows do not need this procedure. Then build another internal “frame” from the film and secure it along the entire length of the window.

For these purposes it is better take new film– it is more transparent and will transmit more light, which your pets desperately need.

Still cut early autumn, rooted and then planted in small pots fuchsia cuttings move it to the loggia. For wintering, it is advisable to place young plants not on the floor, but on a raised surface (on a special stand, table), where the air is warmer.

Pots with cuttings place them in a box close to each other and cover them with sawdust or sand to make wintering fuchsia on the balcony as comfortable as possible.

Watering(wet the top bulk layer) as needed. Young sprouts, falling asleep in October-November, during their sleep period strengthen, gain strength and even become lignified. And in the spring, they grow very quickly and form strong and viable young bushes.

Important point: compliance with temperature conditions. There must be a thermometer hanging on the loggia or balcony. Monitor his readings, trying to temperature was in the range from +6 to +10°С. It is easy to regulate the heat supply by simply opening the door to the room.

There may be such frosts when, in order to save your pets, you will have to experience some inconvenience by leaving the door open for a long time. Of course, if you live in a private house where there are utility rooms located separately, or free rooms with access to a balcony, then the task is simplified.

It has been verified that fuchsias winter in a bright room with temperature They really like +6+10°C, and in the spring they thank the owners for their attention and care with active growth and lush, long-lasting flowering.

Wintering in an apartment

Even in an ordinary apartment, you can provide fuchsias with enough comfortable wintering. The easiest way to do this is if the windows are equipped with double-glazed windows and have a minimum ventilation function.

The moment you decide that it’s time for the flowers to go to bed, place them on the window sills and set the plastic bags to minimal ventilation. They can be closed only when the outside temperature drops significantly.

To prepare cuttings fuchsias for winter keeping in an apartment, plant them in the most “poor soil” possible, adding only a small part of humus.

This is necessary so that the growth of young bushes slows down as much as possible. If fuchsia cuttings begin to grow during the rooting process, cut them off and lower the room temperature.

Cut shoots do not throw them away - they can be successfully rooted in a warm place with enough light even in winter.

Fuchsia Those wintering in an apartment need fairly frequent watering, since central heating causes the substrate to dry out quite quickly, as well as spraying (about once a week). Water as needed, without allowing the earthen ball to dry out completely.

Do not forget carefully examine plants for insects. They like to attack at moments when the temperature and humidity of the air change or do not correspond to optimal values. If you do everything correctly, the plant cuttings will maintain a compact shape, will not get sick, and will not stretch.

If you are not confident in your abilities, start with small quantity plants. And you will have your own experience after the first winter. Good luck!

And for the most curious, we invite you to watch a video about propagating fuchsia by cuttings.

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Caring for fuchsia at home in summer and winter, growing from seeds

Many gardeners call the indoor fuchsia flower “Japanese lantern” and willingly grow it at home. In nature, the plant is an evergreen shrub that grows in Central, South America and New Zealand. In culture, hybrid varieties of function are grown in the form of a low tree, shrub or hanging plant. The plant won the hearts of flower growers with its long flowering, elegant appearance and ease of care. But you can admire the beautiful blooms only if you know how to care for indoor fuchsia. We will talk about this and other nuances of growing a flower in detail in our article.

Fuchsia – description, photo

Indoor fuchsia is a plant with flowing shoots, bright green oval leaves and delicate flowers of a wide variety of colors. The flowers have an unusual structure - they have a tubular corolla, delicate petals and long stamens. When the petals open, the flowers look like bell flowers or dancing ballerinas in a fluffy skirt. The buds can have a wide variety of colors. Their petals can be white, blue, orange, lilac, pink, violet, and even bicolor or tricolor.

Depending on the variety, fuchsia flowers form and bloom at different times of the year. Some species decorate apartments in winter with their blooms.

Types of fuchsias

At home, hybrid varieties are grown in the form of a bush or hanging plant.

Popular bush hybrids:

1. Talia is a plant with bright orange flowers.
2. Henriette Ernst - the variety is distinguished by light lilac petals and scarlet sepals.
3. Anabel is a bush or ampelous hybrid with double, large, white buds.
4. Alissol Bell is a plant with spectacular semi-double buds of red-violet color.
5. Armbrough Campbell - this variety is distinguished by double flowers that bloom in winter, which consist of soft pink petals and red narrow sepals.
6. Imperial Crown is a plant with raceme-shaped inflorescences, which consist of scarlet elongated flowers.
7. Blue Angel is a hybrid popular due to its white sepals, against which the lilac-violet petals look beautiful.
8. Prince of Peace is a variety with red petals and white sepals.
9. Hollis Beauty - the plant is distinguished by white and pink double flowers.
   

How to care for fuchsia at home?

Since in nature the flower grows in a humid climate, caring for fuchsia at home involves regular watering and frequent spraying. In addition, the plant loves good lighting and requires some care in winter.

Lighting. The plant prefers diffused light, so it is recommended to grow it on western and eastern windowsills. Heat and direct sunlight will be destructive for him. In summer, the flower can be taken out open balcony or into the garden, choosing a place for it that is illuminated by the morning sun's rays.

Air temperature. When growing a delicate plant at home, it must be provided with an air temperature within +20 degrees. In winter, the room should be even cooler. It is best if the air temperature is not higher than +15 degrees. At higher temperatures, leaves and buds may fall off, causing the bush to lose its decorative appearance.

Air humidity. In summer, the bushes are sprayed with water from a spray bottle to increase air humidity and refresh the leaves. If fuchsia is grown in winter in a warm room with working radiators, the air humidity around the flower must be increased. This can be done by regular spraying or by placing the pot on a flat container with expanded clay or moss. They need to be moistened as they dry.

Watering. The plant requires moderate watering. During the growing season from spring to autumn, it is necessary to ensure that the soil is moist, but not wet. Watering is carried out after drying the top layer of the substrate, for which water at room temperature that has been standing for at least a day is used. When caring for fuchsia at home in winter, reduce watering and water no more than once or twice a month. But this is the case if the plant is grown in a cool room in winter. IN warm room it should be watered in the same way as in summer. After watering, the drained water must be drained from the pan.

Pruning fuchsia. At home, the shoots of the bush should be pruned regularly to obtain abundant and beautiful flowering. The first time the branches are pinched after the cuttings have rooted. When caring for an already overgrown indoor plant, shoots are pruned in autumn and winter. At the beginning of October, you need to carefully examine the faded shoots, find dormant buds in the axils, step back two centimeters upward from them and cut off the branch. In January, the plant is finally formed. To get a beautiful crown, the side branches are cut above the second or fourth pair of leaves.

Fertilizer. From March to October flowering plant fertilizing is necessary, which can be used as complex mineral fertilizers. To get beautiful and abundant flowering of fuchsia, you need to make sure that the fertilizer contains as little nitrogen as possible. Otherwise, foliage will grow abundantly on the bush, and you may not wait for flowering. In winter, fuchsias do not need to be fed.

Fuchsia transplant

Caring for fuchsia at home also includes replanting, which is carried out in the spring. This should be done every year using the transshipment method. The substrate can be bought in a store or prepared yourself by taking one share of compost, peat, humus and adding two shares of turf soil to them. The mixture for planting fuchsia may consist of other components:

10. sand – 1 share;
11. peat soil - 2 shares;
12. leaf substrate - 3 shares.

Fuchsia is transplanted as follows:

13. Dry and old shoots are pruned, and the remaining ones are shortened by one-third of the length.
14. Drainage is poured into the bottom of the new pot, which should occupy 1/5 of the container.
15. The drainage is filled with nutritious soil.
16. The flower is pulled out of the pot along with the soil, and carefully placed on the poured soil in a new pot.
17. The roots around and above are covered with soil and then watered.
18. If there were any problems when growing fuchsia, then during replanting it is recommended to inspect the roots, cut off rotten and damaged ones to healthy tissue, and sprinkle the cut areas with crushed coal.

Caring for fuchsia in winter at home

The shrub will bloom only if it is given a period of rest in winter. Therefore, in the fall, feeding is stopped, watering is gradually reduced and the plant is placed in a closed loggia, veranda or other room with an air temperature within +10...+15 degrees. Before the dormant period, you must remember to prune and treat the flower against pests. After growing fuchsia in winter in such conditions, the plant will quickly grow in the spring and bloom beautifully and profusely.

Wintering in a warm room will affect not only flowering, but also the appearance of the plant. The shoots will stretch out, the leaves will fall off, and there will be no proper flowering in the summer.

19. coarse washed sand – 1 share;
20. peat – 2 shares;
21. turf substrate - 3 shares.

The soil should be nutritious and light. Before use, it is frozen on the balcony or in freezer. If this is not possible, then water the soil with boiling water.

Sow seeds in wide, shallow containers with drainage holes. The bottom of the container is first filled with drainage, then with soil, which is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The seeds are evenly distributed over the soil surface and sprayed with water from a spray bottle. There is no need to embed them in the soil. For better seed germination, the containers are covered with film on top and placed in a warm, bright place. You need to make sure that they are not exposed to direct sunlight.

When caring for crops, the soil is kept moist, but not wet. The film is removed for a while every day so that the soil is ventilated and does not turn sour.

In about fifteen to twenty days, shoots will appear. They are gradually accustomed to home conditions, removing the shelter every day. Water the seedlings carefully using a spray bottle or pipette.

When two true leaves appear on the seedlings, they are planted in disposable cups with a volume of 100 or 200 ml. They should be watered moderately after the top layer of the substrate has dried. Every two weeks, young plants are fed with complex fertilizers.

When the cups for the bushes become small, they are transplanted into pots two centimeters larger than the old container.

Fuchsia grown at home from seeds will begin to bloom in two years.

Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings


For propagation, cuttings can be taken after pruning the bush or simply cut off a cutting from the plant at any time of the year. Young shoots are used for cuttings. The cuttings should be between 10-20 cm long. Their upper leaves are cut in half and the lower leaves are torn off.

The cuttings are placed in a vessel with water and covered with a transparent bag on top. As soon as the roots appear and grow a little, the cuttings are planted in the soil and covered with a transparent cap on top. When they start to grow, the cover can be removed.

Pests and diseases of fuchsia

Healthy plants should have healthy leaves without spots. If the leaves begin to fall off, dry out, or spots appear on them, you should inspect the plant. Such problems may indicate pests or fuchsia diseases that have settled.

Among the pests, whiteflies, white fly larvae, and spider mites can settle on the leaves of the flower. You can get rid of them with the help of Actellik, Angara or other insecticides.

Of the diseases, fuchsia most often affects:

22. Chlorosis is manifested by dryness and yellowing of foliage. The cause of the disease is a lack of manganese or frequent watering during the dormant period. The plant is watered with potassium permanganate and watering is reduced.
23. Powdery mildew appears in the form of powdery gray spots when the soil is too wet. Topaz or Fundazol will help cure the plant.
24. Rust is a dangerous infectious disease. It appears as brown dry spots on the underside of the leaf blades. The affected leaves need to be torn off, and the bush should be treated with Bordeaux mixture three times every ten days.

Fuchsia is affected by diseases mainly due to poor-quality soil and care errors. In order for the “Japanese lantern” to delight you with its beautiful and abundant flowering, carefully study and strictly follow all the rules for caring for fuchsia at home.


Fuchsia: winter care



Flower growers do not always undertake to work with fuchsia because they do not know how to store fuchsia in winter. They are afraid that they will not be able to cope with storing this magnificent plant during its dormant period.

There are several ways to store fuchsia in winter, which depend on the type of flower, the capabilities and desire to preserve the plant.

Nowadays, there are varieties that can overwinter outside, and varieties that can only be preserved in greenhouses. There are also varieties of fuchsias that will delight you with flowers all year round if you create certain conditions for them. Fuchsia is a very hardy plant, but it can be destroyed by complete drying out or very severe freezing. Nowadays, new frost-resistant varieties of fuchsias are appearing, which can be left to winter outside if the frost does not exceed 20 degrees. In addition, it is better for such a fuchsia to overwinter outside than to be in a warm apartment with poor lighting.

Caring for fuchsia in frosty weather

When the air temperature drops to 5-7 degrees (usually this happens in early November), the plant must be moved to a room with a similar temperature for wintering. Fuchsia overwinters in a cool room, both without light and with light. A basement, an insulated garage, a glazed balcony are suitable for this, and if there is nothing like that, a window sill will do. The young plant is placed on southern windows (this is the best location) closer to the glass, away from the radiator. With this arrangement, fuchsia will grow slowly and not stretch. On northern windows, the plant needs lighting, otherwise it will stretch out and turn pale.

For proper growth, the plant must be fertilized and pinched. Although growing fuchsia is a troublesome task, cuttings taken in the fall already become full-fledged young flowering bushes in the spring. Young green shoots should be cut for cuttings.

Typically, fuchsias bloom until December, after which they completely or partially shed their leaves and buds. In February, active growth and flowering of fuchsia begins. This is the best time for cuttings.

If you decide to leave the fuchsia to winter outside, then at the first frost it should be cut off, leaving shoots 5-10 cm long. If the fuchsia grew in a hanging flowerpot, then the plant must be removed and buried in the ground, covered with a thick layer of peat or dry oak leaves. To prevent moisture from entering from above, everything is covered with plastic film. This is how cold-resistant fuchsia varieties, such as Coralline, Dollar Princess, Royal Velvet, White Fairy, General Monk, Mrs., are preserved. Popple, Preston Guild, Baby Blue Eyes.

The most optimal temperature for keeping fuchsia in winter is 5-10 degrees Celsius. Under such conditions, the plant becomes less demanding of sunlight, stops growing and goes into a dormant state. If the temperature rises, you need to increase the lighting. There will be no need for additional lighting for the plant if it is kept in a south-west, south-east or south window at a temperature of 15 degrees. When keeping fuchsia at higher temperatures, it needs additional lighting, otherwise the plant will continue to grow, and in the spring it will be weakened.

How to preserve fuchsia in winter on a balcony or glassed-in loggia?

First, we insulate and seal the windows on the loggia. Fuchsia remains in a pot or box for the winter in the form of pruned bushes or cuttings that were rooted in the fall. The boxes are filled with sawdust or sand. Water the plant as needed or moisten the sawdust. Over the winter, the young fuchsia will become woody, gain strength, and in the spring it will grow into a strong plant. If the watering regime is violated, the fuchsia will drop its buds. This can also happen if the fuchsia is rotated or rearranged during the flowering period.

How to care for fuchsia: choosing a variety and simple rules for healthy growth



In nature, fuchsia is an evergreen perennial crop with many flowers. Botanists have identified 100 species. The plant occurs as carpet plantings with small flowers, compact shrubs or trees. There are ampelous varieties.

Description of the plant and which option is suitable for an apartment

The leaves of the plant are green and may have a reddish tint. If you ensure high-quality cultivation of fuchsia at home, flowering continues from early spring to late autumn. Flowers grow singly or in clusters of inflorescences. The corollas have a variety of colors: cream, pink, purple, white, and can also be two-color or three-color.

There are a huge number of plant varieties. The required variety is selected depending on the lighting in the room and the microclimate. These four varieties are suitable for beginners.

1. "Andromeda". A vigorous and bushy plant with simple red flowers. The variety takes root well, overwinters well and produces lush flowering.
2. "Annabelle". The height of the bush is up to 60 cm. The plant has double and voluminous white flowers, and the cuttings take root easily.
3. "Blue Frills". Strongly branching and abundant flowering variety. Will delight the owners with lilac-pink buds.
4. Holly's Beauty. The peculiarity of the plant is terry corollas of white and pink shades.

How to organize fuchsia care

The flower blooms profusely and for a long time, but for this you need to create favorable conditions and know how to care for fuchsia. The following factors will provide an optimal microclimate.

5. Lighting. Bright but diffused sunlight is suitable for the plant. Soft rays are especially useful in the morning and evening hours, so it is better to choose window sills in rooms on the western and eastern sides.
6. Temperature. The optimal temperature for keeping the plant is 18°C ​​to 25°C. The room must be ventilated.
7. Hydration. During the flowering period, the plant requires spraying with a spray bottle. The procedure is performed in the morning and evening.

Experienced gardeners do not recommend replanting the plant in a large container. The pots should be sized so that the root system completely fills the container. The time for “housewarming” comes when the roots are clearly visible from the drainage holes or the soil immediately dries out after watering.

Before planting a bush, it needs to be prepared for this procedure:

• stimulating pruning is carried out - old and dry shoots are removed, and the rest are shortened by a third;
• the root system is inspected for the presence of rot and diseases;
• a drainage layer is laid, which should fill a fifth of the pot.



There are different ways to form fuchsia. The simplest option is pruning. The procedure ensures lush flowering and proper development. You can pin the plant after the cuttings have rooted. If a peduncle appears on a young shoot, it should be removed. Regular pruning is done in the spring, before flowering begins. To form a beautiful crown, it is necessary to cut off the side shoots above every third or fourth pair of leaves.

Water procedures and recharge

Fuchsia needs moderate watering. In summer, make sure that the soil is moist, but stagnation is strictly contraindicated. Since September, the schedule of water procedures has been reduced: they are carried out no more than once or twice a month.

As for feeding, in spring and summer it should be regular: once every two weeks. Complex fertilizer is used. With the onset of cold weather and the dormant period, it is no longer necessary to fertilize the flower.

Culture propagation

The most commonly used propagation of fuchsia is cuttings and seeds. The last method is more labor-intensive. Seeds are planted in small containers. But there is no need to bury them, but only lay them on top of a moistened soil substrate. Bowls with seeds are placed in a warm and well-lit place. Shoots appear in 12-15 days. Picking is done one and a half months after planting, and after two months the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots.

Autumn and spring are suitable times for cuttings. The procedure consists of four stages.

• A healthy shoot (up to 10 cm) is taken from the bottom of the main stem.
• The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings.
• The tip of the cutting is placed in water or poured sand.
• After two to three weeks, when small roots appear, the cuttings are planted in pots.

Reasons why there are no flowers

The best way to make fuchsia bloom at home is to find out the reasons for the lack of flowers. Here are the main ones that are possible:

• lack of nutrients;
• excessive watering;
• incorrect temperature (especially if it is too hot and dry in winter);
• lack of lighting;
• incorrectly selected pot size.

What is sick?

A healthy plant has leaves that are rich and healthy in color. If fuchsia sheds its leaves, they dry out and become stained - then this is a sure sign of disease. Take a closer look at the plant and it will tell you what the cause of the disease is.

• Powdery spots. A sign of powdery mildew, which appears when there is excess moisture. For disease, the plant is treated with Topaz and Fundazol.
• Dryness and yellowness. If the leaves dry out, this indicates chlorosis. To combat the disease, watering with a manganese solution is used.
• Brown spots. The rusty areas are removed, and then the plant is sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.

If you know how to care for fuchsia during flowering and follow all the growing rules, your home greenhouse will be decorated with an incredible flower, which is popularly called “gypsy earrings”.

Growing and caring for fuchsia at home in winter

Most floral designers unanimously agree that the most bright plant, which can be grown from seeds at home, is fuchsia. Many people like this tree to be rich color palette, which is demonstrated by its flowers, which differ original form. She feels great not only in the garden, but also on the balcony, and is also easy to care for. Therefore, if you receive information about the nuances of its cultivation, the gardener will have a reason to rejoice, because he will be able to enjoy the look of a plant grown with his own hands.

Fuchsias are one of the brightest representatives of evergreens. perennial shrubs, which belong to the fireweed family. To date about 100 are known species forms , which are found in the forests of New Zealand, Central and South America. Due to the high interest of gardeners in this flower, the situation has developed that at the moment tens of thousands of different varieties and hybrids of fuchsia are available to them, the flowers of which differ in a variety of shapes and colors.

The world first became acquainted with this plant when information about the South American fuchsia trefoil appeared. The high honor of being the first to see this flower was given to the King of Spain, for whom this plant was a gift from the conquistadors. Among the features of fuchsia, it is worth highlighting the unusually narrow long flowers. This plant, which is easy to grow from seeds, has a property characteristic of all species of its family - unpretentiousness. Therefore, it is enough for just one shoot to get into the flowerbed, and at the end of the season it will grow into a lush flowering bush.

It is also important that caring for it is very simple, since this only requires monitoring the soil moisture, starting with sowing seeds into it. Fuchsia is not left in the ground for the winter, so in the fall it is dug up, trimmed and sent to a temporary container, which is placed in the basement at a temperature of + 5-8 degrees. With the onset of spring, when the last wave of frost has passed, the flower is returned to the flowerbed again.

Many original types of fuchsia have very interesting colors. It is formed by a mixture of purple, scarlet and brick tones, representing a separate shade that is the characteristic color of fuchsia.

The plant is quite different original flower shape: they have cups and a corolla with curved edges. If you look closely at the calyx, you will notice how long stamens protrude from it, while the petals are always shorter than the calyx. Fuchsia is distinguished by a wide variety of colors: they can have regular and double, single-color, as well as two-color and three-color shades.

It is also noteworthy that after flowering, edible fruits begin to form on long petioles. Moreover, they not only have a pleasant sweet and sour taste, but can also be used for medicinal purposes. These berries can often be found on the table of South American Indians, as they are often used as a seasoning for meat dishes.

Depending on the shape of the plant divided into shrubby and tree-like. Their leaves can also vary: opposite, oval, pointed. Many often have jagged edges. As a rule, they do not differ in tone, since it is always the same - dark green. However, recently many new varieties of fuchsia have appeared that have variegated colors.

Growing fuchsia from seeds at home

Proper care of the plant at home involves taking into account the basic biological characteristics of fuchsia.

• Although they are light-loving plants, it is best to keep them where they will be protected from direct sunlight. At the same time, partial shade can be a good place to grow fuchsias. However, one thing needs to be mentioned here important point: for flowers that have a darker shade, it is necessary to create more bright lighting. Therefore, soft red varieties will grow best in openwork shade, and for plants with red and purple flowers, it is better to choose a sunny place.
• When preparing to plant plants, the first thing you need to do is place drainage in the pot. To do this, you can use pebbles or expanded clay, laying it no higher than 3-4 cm in height.
• Fuchsia does well if provided with sufficient moisture. However, watering should be moderate, since when the water stagnates, the roots will begin to rot.
• Attention should also be paid to the quality of the substrate used, which should have a loose and breathable structure. This can be achieved if, when preparing it, you use leaf humus, taken in an amount of 1/3 of the volume. The optimal soil mixture for fuchsia will look like this: turf soil, leaf humus, peat, sand in a ratio of 3:3:1:1.

Temperature

Extreme heat has a negative effect on plants. Therefore, it is best if the temperature does not rise above +18-24 degrees. Those owners who grow fuchsia at home will have to try very hard to create favorable conditions in the summer. It is not recommended to constantly leave the flower in the sun. Fuchsia responds positively to spraying, but it must be carried out when the plant does not receive direct sunlight. The most favorable moment for this procedure is after sunset. This procedure is useful for plants that are grown indoors.

In winter, it is necessary to create slightly different conditions for fuchsia that will correspond to its current state. At rest, the optimal temperature for the plant will be within + 5-12 degrees. At this time, fuchsia is watered much less frequently, but care must be taken to ensure that the earthen clod does not dry out. If in winter the room where the fuchsia was located was maintained in warmer conditions than necessary, then it is possible that the owner may not be able to wait for it to bloom next season.

Care during the flowering period

When the plant begins to emerge from dormancy, they begin to carry out the following activities:

• Trimming. This operation is planned for early March. The scale of pruning is determined by the quality of this operation, which was carried out in the fall after flowering. In order for the plants to survive the winter, it is necessary to cut off old branches by 2/3, and new ones by 1/3. It is imperative to trim off all leaves, flowers and buds. In this case, during spring pruning, you will have to cut branches into two buds, dried branches and those that are directed inside the crown. If this pruning was not carried out in the fall, then in the spring it is carried out adjusted for this moment;
• Also, for fuchsia grown at home, it is necessary to carry out rejuvenating and formative pruning. This will help keep the crown neat. This operation should not be neglected, since otherwise it will lead to exposure of the crown, which will subsequently become loose and unattractive. Thus, for this purpose, in the spring, after the formation of new branches, pinching is carried out twice. This will help to avoid excessive growth of the crown, which will certainly affect its shape. The last time pinching is carried out is in the last ten days of May. Plan this operation for more late date not recommended, as this may lead to a delay in flowering;
• Transfer. This operation is carried out every year. However, there is no need to create maximum space for the roots. Indeed, in this case, all energy will be spent on growing shoots, which will cause flowering to suffer. When choosing a pot for replanting, you should choose a container that will be 3-4 cm larger in diameter and height than the previous one. If you plan to replant old plants, then before placing them in a new place, they can be cleaned of old soil. However, in order not to bother yourself with this work, it is enough to remove only a layer of old soil 3 cm thick. It is even easier to do with young bushes under the age of 3 years. They just need to be transferred to new larger containers.

Usually fuchsias can delight the owner with their flowering for many years. However, this is only possible if he provides proper care to the plants. In this case, you can enjoy the sight of fuchsia flowers for up to 50 years. However, the gardener cannot avoid trouble if he is going to grow bush and hanging fuchsia, since they do not retain their attractive crown shape for long. To avoid this, it is recommended to update every 4-5 years. There will not be any particular problems with this, given that they can be easily propagated using green cuttings.

If a gardener wants to achieve lush and long flowering from fuchsia, then he should feed the plants regularly. This operation must be carried out once a week, using liquid fertilizers.

Special fertilizers for fuchsia are especially useful. You can apply fertilizer until the flowers first open. To do this, prepare a solution for which 1/3 of a portion of fertilizer is diluted in water.

What pests and diseases are typical for fuchsia?

Fuchsias that are grown from seeds at home most often suffer from spider mites and whiteflies. Having noticed the first signs of the disease, the following measures are carried out: the flower must be treated with a warm shower at a temperature of + 36-38 degrees, after which it must be allowed to dry.

Disease Control

If this procedure turns out to be ineffective, you will have to use chemicals. To do this, you can take compositions such as Aktara, Agravertin or Fitoverm. Solutions are prepared from them, which are sprayed in three doses on the crown of the plant.

• between treatments it is necessary to maintain an interval of one week;
• after spraying, the crown should be covered with a plastic bag and then placed in the shade so that it can dry there;
• It is useful to treat the substrate itself: it is watered with the same solution, but for its preparation a double dose of the drug is used. This allows you to destroy all pests in the soil and prevent the emergence of new ones.

In most cases, fuchsia is affected by diseases such as blackleg, as well as rust on the leaves.

If there are clear signs of a progressive disease, then it is better to get rid of the plants. For the substrate, it is recommended to treat using bright pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Conclusion

Fuchsia is one of the favorite plants of gardeners who are grown from seeds at home. Many people are attracted by its ease of care and unusual decorative properties. Naturally, in order to get a beautifully flowering fuchsia, you need to get acquainted with the peculiarities of its cultivation. It is important not only to stock up on seeds and prepare a high-quality soil mixture for the plant, but also to create favorable conditions for growth so that fuchsia can please the gardener with its flowering. But due to natural growing conditions it is also important take care of protection from diseases. Otherwise, one fine day this flower will wither and die.

How to care for fuchsia in winter at home

Proper care of fuchsia in winter at home involves a number of activities. They are aimed at preparing the flower for the cold, properly preserving it and bringing it back to life with the onset of spring. Fuchsia is the subject of worship and adoration of most gardeners. This plant looks bright, striking everyone with its rich palette of colors and originality of shape. Fuchsia belongs to the category of perennial evergreen shrubs of the Fireweed family. This plant is native to South America. Thanks to its beauty and ease of care, it is incredibly popular among gardeners around the world. Today science knows several hundred species of this shrub growing in the wild. The plant easily tolerates transportation. It is equally well suited for life in a garden and a city apartment. Particularly appreciated by flower lovers is the fact that with good care, fuchsia can live for more than 50 years.

General rules for caring for shrubs

In order for an exotic flower to always please its owner, it needs to create appropriate conditions for growth, flowering and rest during the off-season. Therefore, everyone is interested in how to care for fuchsia growing in open ground and at home in a flower pot.

Let's look at the basic rules for caring for fuchsia at home

Watering mode. Fuchsia belongs to the category of moisture-loving plants. It responds equally well to both root watering and external spraying. The shrub should be watered daily in small portions. A signal that the plant requires moisture is when the top layer of soil dries to a depth of 1 cm or more. But you should not overuse watering. Excess moisture leads to the development of mold and rotting of roots. You can avoid waterlogging by creating a drainage layer at the bottom of the flowerpot. For this, expanded clay or well-cleaned pebbles are used.

Flower lighting. Despite the fact that fuchsia is a heat-loving flower, it is not recommended to place it in direct sunlight. For this plant, reflected light and even partial shade conditions are quite enough. When choosing a location for a shrub, you need to take into account the contrast factor. Plants with dark-colored flowers need more color, while bright, light-colored flowers do much better in the shade.

Selecting a soil mixture And. It is best to use black soil with the addition of leaf humus for growing shrubs. This composition will provide the root system with nutrients and give it freedom to grow. The plant needs constant feeding. For blooming fuchsia, you need to use biological fertilizers with a minimum nitrogen content. Fertilizers can be applied along with irrigation liquid or by adding them directly to the soil. When winter comes, the plant does not need feeding. It enters a state of rest when there is no need for nutrients.

Temperature maintenance. Despite the fact that fuchsia is native to hot countries, it reacts extremely negatively to high temperatures. When it increases above +25? C, the shrub becomes lethargic, does not bloom or bear fruit. In summer, the flower must be protected from direct sunlight. To do this, you need to put the flowerpot in a cool place, and create artificial shade for the flower garden.



If the gardener follows these simple rules, then he will not have to look for the answer to the question of why exotic flowers and fruits do not appear on the fuchsia bush.

Preparing the plant for wintering

In winter, the shrub is dormant. This transition is due to the adaptation of fuchsia to climatic conditions when the temperature drops and the sun's rays become insufficient for normal functioning. The plant needs rest to restore the energy spent during the season and prepare for flowering next season.

Preparing shrubs for winter preservation is as follows:

Reducing watering volume. This should be done gradually, completely stopping watering for a month. Such an event should begin in September, so that by the first frost the stem and branches are completely dehydrated.

Stop applying fertilizer in any form. Stopping feeding stimulates the shedding of leaves and flower petals. The plant receives a kind of signal that it needs to reduce activity.

Limiting access to light. The flowerpot should be removed away from the window. It is necessary that only natural light reflected from the walls and ceiling falls on it. If this is not possible, then an incandescent lamp turned on for several hours a day will do.

Decrease in air temperature. The flowerpot must be taken out onto a glazed balcony, placed in a basement or other room where the air temperature does not exceed +15? C.



It is necessary to reduce the volume of watering in preparation for winter

After this, you need to wait until all the leaves and petals fall from the stems, and they themselves become dry and brittle.

Care for fuchsia in winter

After the shrub has entered a dormant state, it is necessary to carry out a number of measures to ensure normal winter hibernation and successful awakening in the spring.

The gardener must do the following:

Wash the inside of the flowerpot well and disinfect its walls. Arrange new drainage inside the pot and fill it with fresh fertile soil. Carefully place the bush into it.

After carrying out sanitary procedures, you need to place the fuchsia in a dark, damp place. In order to prevent the earthen clod from drying out and the roots from breaking, the plant must be periodically watered with clean, settled water.



Preparing fuchsia for wintering

If fuchsia is left warm for the winter, then there is a high probability that it will not bloom throughout the next season. This is one of the features of this beautiful but capricious flower.

Awakening of fuchsia in spring

It is necessary to bring the plant out of hibernation at the beginning of spring, when it becomes warmer and there is more and more sunlight.

In order for a flower to successfully enter an active state after wintering, the following manipulations must be performed with it:

Trim. This must be done in order to get rid of old wood, dead leaves and buds. Old branches are cut almost to the base, and fresh shoots are cut to a third of their length. In addition, the stems directed into the bush and forming dense plexuses in the crown are removed.

Place the flowerpot in a warm place, where the flower will receive reflected sunlight. Begin progressive watering with sufficient amounts of organic fertilizer. You need to water the flower after sunset so as not to provoke stress. When the stem swells and gets stronger, it needs to be rinsed to remove dust that has accumulated over the winter.

Place a container of water next to the flowerpot to ensure uniform saturation of the wood with moisture from the inside and outside. If this is not done, the trunk and branches may become covered with cracks.

If the bush is properly prepared for wintering and brought out of hibernation, the stem is completely restored within a month. Buds and buds appear on it. If you plan to grow fuchsia outdoors in the garden, then it should be planted no later than a week after the last night frost.

Fuchsia propagation

The desire of any gardener to have several fuchsia bushes grown independently is quite understandable. This bush can be propagated at home, without the help of professionals.

Fuchsia propagation is carried out in two ways:

Seeds. The interesting thing about this approach is that the new plant can be very different from its parent. This happens due to self-pollination of the flower or the participation of bees in this process. The result of growing from seeds can be a greenhouse of flowers of the same genus of different colors.

Cuttings. A young shoot up to 20 cm long is cut off from a bush that has awakened from winter sleep. After removing the leaves from the lower part, the root is placed in clean water. After the roots appear, the cuttings are transplanted into the ground.

As the fuchsia grows, it is transplanted into a larger pot. This procedure must be carried out annually to provide space for the roots, which are constantly increasing in volume. It is better to replant in autumn or spring, when the plant is dormant.

In autumn and spring, fuchsia has a period of active growth, reproduction and flowering, and in winter it goes into rest.(read about how to properly propagate fuchsia from cuttings, and from there you will learn how to grow a new plant from a leaf). The flower needs good lighting all year round. Watering in winter is carried out less frequently than usual. The earth ball should not dry out completely before the next watering. In autumn, the plant needs to be moved to a cool place, and if there is no such place, then coolness should be created artificially.

Where to start preparing the plant for winter:

1. The first thing to do is leave the plant outdoors until the first frost. If you bring fuchsia indoors before the cold weather, the lignification process will be interrupted.
2. Since the beginning of autumn, the flower has not been fertilized. Feeding is not needed, since by this time it accumulates a sufficient amount of nutrients.
3. To prevent the crown from stretching out, the buds are smaller and there is lush flowering in the spring.
4. Before wintering, it is imperative to inspect the fuchsia. It is necessary to remove all yellowed leaves and dry stems.
5. Also, experienced flower growers advise carrying out treatment based on rapeseed oil, Rapsol. Spraying will protect the flower from pests.

How to store in the basement and cellar?

Not all flower lovers can afford to organize the wintering of fuchsia on a glassed-in loggia of an apartment or a bright greenhouse, but what to do in this case with fuchsia? You can use a basement or cellar to store the plant in winter.. Before moving the fuchsia to one of these places, it is trimmed and the leaves are shortened.

In the dark, she breathes as well as in the fresh air, using up accumulated nutrients. The room must be equipped with ventilation. In its absence, air humidity will increase, and this will entail a series of fungal diseases.

Important: The suitable air temperature in the basement or cellar should be at least +10 degrees.

How does one winter in an apartment?

In apartment conditions, it is possible to provide good wintering for fuchsia if you frequently ventilate the room. In September, the flower is transplanted into “poor soil”, which contains a small amount of humus. This will slow down the growth of young bushes. If a gardener notices in winter that the bushes have begun to sprout, then they must be cut off immediately and the window opened for a long time to reduce the temperature. Overwintering fuchsia in the basement is watered only 1-2 times a month, but in an apartment this needs to be done more often.

Due to heating, the earthen ball dries out faster and a lack of moisture is formed. Leading to the death of the plant, so you should remove the flower away from the batteries.

On the day when fuchsia is brought into the apartment, the florist must open the window and set the double-glazed window to minimal ventilation. It must always be open. It can only be closed on very cold days.

During dormancy, the flower becomes even more capricious than during the period of growth and flowering. It reacts negatively to lack and excessive moisture. If proper conditions are not met in winter, for example, increased humidity or temperature, lead to the appearance of insects. In such cases, they cannot always help; even fungicides and insecticides can cope with pests.

What you need to know about the contents on the windowsill?

Do I need to trim?

It is necessary to prune fuchsia for the winter.. This is a very important stage in. Do it twice a year:

• In the fall, when they move the flower to the basement or apartment.
• In spring, to form a beautiful bush.

In order not to provoke the growth of trunks and stretching of the bush upward, fuchsia is pruned in the fall immediately after flowering. The procedure is necessary for proper development in the spring.

When to clean, in what month of autumn?

Fuchsia is often harvested for the winter at the end of October.. The pot is moved from the garden or taken from the dacha for the winter to an apartment, basement, cellar. There it remains until spring.

Flower care

Winter is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It does not need feeding, all you need to do is water it on time and adhere to the correct temperature regime of +10...+12 degrees. It is not recommended to place the plant on a windowsill with windows facing north, since the flower will not have enough light and will stretch out.

Advice: The right time for awakening - early March. Winter-hardy fuchsia is left in the garden, but in order for it to survive the winter safely, it is covered with a layer of peat or dry leaves. From excess moisture cover with a layer of plastic film.

We talked more about the rules for growing fuchsia in the garden

Since fuchsias are perennial plants, they can be successfully grown for many years.
Spring, summer and autumn usually do not raise questions. What about in winter?
In winter, fuchsias enter a dormant period. Most often, fuchsias drop their leaves, slow down or stop growing, and go dormant. For example, like this:

How to preserve fuchsia in winter?

There are 2 main conditions here.
1. Provide a cool temperature of +5 +10 ℃. The main condition is that the temperature should not be negative.
2. Moisten the soil as needed. The lower the temperature, the less we water. Overwatering threatens to rot.

Video about preparing fuchsia for wintering

Where?

Popular options for wintering fuchsias are an apartment, country house, garage, basement or cellar.

Wintering fuchsias in an apartment.

Fuchsias can be placed on an insulated windowsill or balcony. Try to protect the fuchsia from cold air and ensure the recommended temperature.

Disadvantages of wintering in an apartment

Dry air. You can spray the plant, use a humidifier, or place the plant in a container with wet expanded clay.
Cold drafts. It can be solved by insulating the windows and thinking about the location away from drafts.
Heat. Look for cool places in the house. This could be a place next to a window, an insulated balcony, a hallway or an entrance.

Wintering fuchsias in the garage, basement, cellar

Fuchsias thrive in cool, humid environments. The main thing is to protect them from possible rodents. You will also need to moisten the soil, but much less often than in the dry air of apartments.

Spring

In February or March, fuchsias are ready to awaken.
Bring them out into the light if they have been in dark room.
Adult plants are transplanted into fresh soil. If necessary, you can take a slightly larger pot.
Now you can trim dry, lifeless branches. If there are elongated pale shoots, we cut them off too.
Now fuchsia is ready for the new season. On a bright window and in new soil it will grow leaves and buds.