In the summer of 2010 I bought an apartment in brick house. The previous owners, naturally, did not warn about anything. And the chairman of the homeowners association said after the purchase: “I must warn you - there is poor ventilation in your riser and the wall is freezing. Now we are suing the developer.” After that, I carefully examined the wall and there were black spots on it in the corner and closer to the floor, apparently mold: (The HOA court with the developer did not give anything, because the warranty had expired (the house was commissioned in 2005-2006), the developer company sold it (now it is registered not in our region, but in St. Petersburg) and in general, there is no money for the courts. Old-timers say that even when the house was rented out there was some kind of conspiracy and trial and it was not expected to win.
In general, saving drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves. And you have to save yourself from the cold (the blackness doesn’t seem to be growing yet). In winter in a room with outer wall very cold. Because There is access to the wall from the entrance (the wall faces the fire balcony + an unheated garbage disposal hall + a weakly heated elevator hall), then I would like to insulate it on my own. I just don’t know how, why and whether it makes sense at all.
What the wall is made of, what the mistakes of the builders are - it is impossible to achieve. The chairman (already different) is elusive, one of the board members came, knocked on the wall and said: “Why did they remove the foam? There should be a layer of foam on this wall.” The accountant says: “According to the design, there should be a layer of mineral wool on the wall, but since the apartments were bought with a rough finish, no one bothered to do this layer.” The woman (one of the few old-timers who have not yet sold an apartment in this riser) says: “Listen to them more - they won’t say such things!”
The temperature in winter in the center of the room on the table is 18-19C, in the corner on the floor 12C, a meter and a half further from the corner along the wall 15C.
I don’t understand - will insulation help me? Won't mold feel more at ease in the warmth? The heating is also not all good: in severe frosts, the radiators heat better and the room is noticeably warmer (above 20C). But in normal weather the batteries don't get that hot. The chairman says that the temperature is regulated at the thermal power plant. And the bulk of the boners in the house scream that they live with open windows. But our batteries really aren’t hot. Those. the supply pipe is hot - you cannot hold it with your hand, but please hold on to the pipe on which the battery hangs.
My 3rd winter in a cold apartment begins. Can anyone help/prompt/advise? One important feature When insulating, the materials must be fireproof!
Attached:
1. Photo of the facade of the house. It is noticeable that the fire balcony is deeper than the loggia, i.e. part of the wall actually goes out onto the street (according to my calculations, 20 centimeters).
2. BTI plan (on the left is the neighbors’ apartment, on the right is the fire balcony and corridor). The dimensions inside the apartment correspond to BTIs.
3. The BTI plan shows that the thickness of the wall is different. But who would know how things really are. I tried to count the bricks on the loggia/fire balcony and measure them with a tape measure inside and outside. I am posting a diagram of what approximately happened.
Experts answered the question
Best answer
5 answers
First of all, look at the connections between the wall and the ceiling, the wall and the floor, the corners; most likely you will need to ditch. Ditch everything and an opening will show that there is no insulation between the walls, and all the junctions and corners are sloppily covered. You are purchasing polyurethane foam and into all the holes and crevices. But then you buy GVL guides and stands for it. Don’t forget about dowels and screws and mineral wool. I like ROCKWOOL. And the mold must be removed.
I often encounter similar problems and solve everything. There is nothing super complicated here. It is necessary to insulate the wall on the entrance side. A wall of 2 bricks is insufficient thermal protection from the street cold. According to the project, there may have been an additional layer of foam or mineral wool insulation. It will need to be restored or created anew. You can use extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), if the management company is not too meticulous in checking fire safety - after all, the Eps layer will need to be covered with a layer of plaster on top, and just like that, from a match, it will not light up. Take a layer of insulation at least 10 cm thick.
About flammability groups and fire safety materials intended for insulation can be found here:
The supply pipe of your battery is quite hot, and the outlet pipe is slightly warm - this is due to high heat loss in the apartment. Insulate the wall - the temperature difference will decrease, and you won’t be able to hold on to the second pipe either.
The reason for the formation of mold is the constant presence of moisture (in your case, condensed) on the surface of the wall. Moisture condenses when the wall surface temperature is significantly lower than the ambient air temperature. Insulate the wall - the temperature of its surface will rise, become not much lower than the air temperature, and the conditions for condensation will be eliminated. Mold does not grow on a dry surface.
Another reason for the formation of condensation may be high humidity air caused by poor ventilation. The normal relative humidity in an apartment is 30-45%. At this humidity there will be no condensation. If the humidity is higher than normal, then measures should be taken to normalize the operation of the ventilation system.
P.S. There is no need to dig and look for insulation inside the wall. He most likely isn't there. And if there is, then the layer is not thick enough, since it does not provide the necessary thermal protection.
Helpful answer? Yes 2 / No
Oleg, you didn’t specify which side to cut from? from the side of the apartment?
I would insulate the wall on the entrance side. And the mold needs to be removed and dried.
Helpful answer? Not really
Thanks for the answer! 
This figure shows that the fire balcony for the most part borders on the loggia. The loggia is not insulated ( aluminum glazing). Therefore, I think that there is no point in insulating the entire wall of the fire balcony. But what to do in the corner where there is red? This is, in principle, a real street - in winter it can snow. Rain probably won't be enough, but the materials must be resistant to temperature and precipitation. We have it in Castorama aerated concrete blocks size 625x250x100. Is 10cm thick enough? If you put it on the 25cm side, it probably won’t be enough to cover the red width and you’ll have to put it on the 62.5cm side? What solution should I use? Some kind of special glue for aerated concrete? Or is aerated concrete not used for exterior work?
I don’t know exactly the red width (according to my estimates it’s 20-25cm). I don’t know the thickness of the wall either (estimated at 2-2.5 bricks). Maybe look into the possibility of thermal imaging? Can she clarify anything? At what outside temperature should it be done?
And another question. If the HOA insists that insulation needs to be done from inside the apartment, how can you convince them otherwise?
Preface. Residents apartment buildings often experience inconvenience due to insufficient wall thickness between the apartment and the entrance. IN monolithic houses this leads not only to heat loss and insufficient sound insulation, which is especially noticeable on the first floors of apartment buildings. We will analyze the issue of thermal insulation of the wall in the entrance on our own, consider the choice of insulation and show video instructions.
The first thing to remember is that you need to contact the HOA or Housing Office for permission to carry out such work. The entrance is common property and nothing can be done here without the permission of the homeowners. Sometimes it’s easier and cheaper to insulate the wall on the side of the apartment, retaining heat in the house. In this case, a work permit will not be required if load-bearing walls are not subject to changes or dismantling.
Why is it necessary to insulate the wall in the entrance?
Is it necessary to insulate the wall in the entrance? Sometimes it happens that the temperature in the entrance drops significantly in winter due to the fact that the entrance door is not well insulated, and there are wooden windows on the staircases. This leads to increased heat loss in the apartment adjacent to the entrance. In this article we will tell you how to insulate the wall on the entrance side of an apartment on your own.
As you can see, heat and sound insulation of entrance walls is often simply necessary, let’s look at what inexpensive materials This structure can be used for thermal insulation. What technologies for insulating walls and others vertical structures today they are used in construction. At the end of the material, we have posted video instructions on how to independently heat and sound insulate walls in an apartment.
What is the best way to insulate the walls in the entrance?
From the entrance side, sheets of foam plastic or extrusion (penoplex) can be glued to the wall being treated; their installation is carried out using glue and dowels. To protect against mechanical damage, polystyrene foam can be plastered after installation, like the facade of a house. You can also make a frame and build a false wall from plasterboard or OSB. If additional sound insulation is needed, then you should use mineral wool.
On the apartment side, it is better to use mineral wool, for example, URSA. Basalt and mineral insulation Today they are inexpensive, while this thermal insulation does not burn, is environmentally friendly and retains heat well. All of this is important if you are trying to make your home eco-friendly. The slabs are fastened to the wall on a pre-constructed sheathing, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier on top and covered with plasterboard or plywood.
Do-it-yourself insulation of the wall in the entrance
Photo. Do-it-yourself insulation of entrance walls
You should not start work without a drill, hammer drill and other tools. To attach dowels or sheathing in the wall, you need to drill into brick wall holes. If it is not possible to drill through the wall, then you can lay the insulation boards on polystyrene foam glue, but this is not reliable. In addition, for reliability, mineral wool and foam slabs are additionally placed on a dowel.
If you want to end up with a more reliable and robust construction, then you should make a sheathing of wooden blocks on the wall. The distance between the guides is made equal to the width of the thermal insulation boards; sheets of plasterboard or OSB are attached to the top of the guides. If you are using basalt insulation, then they should be protected from moisture by laying roll waterproofing from the warm room side.
Insulation of the entrance wall on the first floor
How to insulate the entrance wall on the first floor? This question is often asked by owners of apartments on the first floors, since many have a wall in their apartment that is only 1 brick thick. In winter, such a thin structure allows the cold to pass through, not to mention sound insulation. Thermal insulation of the door and wall of the entrance on the first floor will solve not only this problem, but will also save heat in the entire apartment building.
Use penoplex instead of polystyrene foam and mineral wool for these purposes - a good option. Penoplex does not allow moisture to pass through, retains heat well, in addition, it is a fairly dense and durable material, so it is often used not only for insulating entrance doors, but also for thermal insulation of blind areas and foundations country house. Watch the video for recommendations professional builders on this topic.
You can insulate your apartment using crumpled newspapers and tape. Or you can arm yourself with a thermal imager for this purpose, ultrasound scanner and nanopaint. The homeowner can easily handle some heat-saving work himself, but for some he will need professionals. Well, the quality of work will be accepted by the frost outside the window. Builders share their “winter” secrets with Remont.Divandi readers.
Treatment for a cold apartment begins with diagnosis. We need to find out why the room is cold, despite the radiator blazing with heat. The experience of builders says that most often heat leaves the apartment through faulty windows and where the windows connect to the wall. If we are talking about a panel house, another weak point is the corners of the room formed by the outer wall. On the first floors, the cause of cold is often the floor.
Alexey Zykov
Director of Binom LLC
A person who is far from construction cannot always determine the reason for freezing of a wall. Cracks and cavities inside the walls, broken interpanel seams, and improper brick laying are simply not visible to the average person. And a specialist may need special equipment - ultrasonic detectors, infrared cameras, etc.
In Yekaterinburg, there are companies that provide services for inspecting premises using a thermal imager for the presence of cold bridges. It costs from 2.5 thousand rubles. for the apartment. You can rent a thermal imager - from 1 thousand rubles. for 1 hour rental. However, even without special equipment, the owner can learn a lot about thermal circuit your apartment. The main thing is to understand what to pay attention to.
Alexey Zykov
Director of Binom LLC
Check how completed window slopes and the windows themselves, whether the sashes fit tightly. If you live on the ground floor, check the connections of the floor to the walls along the entire perimeter of the apartment. Also check the outside walls, especially the sockets in them, as well as the corners of the rooms.
Treating windows for colds
Windows in Ekaterinburg apartments have been actively converted into plastic for more than 10 years. Nevertheless, as repairmen note, 50-60% of city residents' apartments still look at the world through glass framed in wood. Wooden windows are very good from an environmental point of view, but over time their thermal insulation properties may deteriorate. Director of the Repair Center “Master for an Hour” Timur Abdullaev notes that today he has not lost his relevance old-fashioned method“piercing” wooden windows with ordinary cotton wool. Especially if the apartment owner is concerned about insulating the home after winter has arrived. When it’s frosty outside, it’s more difficult to properly repair wooden windows.
Timur Abdullaev
Repair wooden window begins with searching for cold bridges - gaps and cracks. We clean the places where they are found from dirt, and if necessary, use a spatula to remove the paint that has covered the cracks. After this, we fill the cracks and gaps with transparent sealant. It is sold in the form of “pencils”. It is better to do this work before the cold weather.
The Repair Center explained that a professional technician will insulate one window in about an hour. The cost of the work will be 350-700 rubles. Plastic windows provide better protection from the cold than wood. But only if they are in good condition.
Alexander Sukhanov
Incorrect installation of fittings plastic window, especially multiplied by improper operation, can lead to the fact that the window will not close tightly, and attempts to forcefully lock it will only increase the gap between the frame and the sash to 3-5 mm. Another problem is the destruction of the rubber seal. All these faults can be fixed by a specialist. Adjusting a plastic window costs about 300 rubles, replacing a seal costs from 110 rubles. per linear meter. Replacing fittings will cost from 700 to 5000 rubles.
The problems may not be in the window itself, but in the places where it adjoins the walls. As master Alexey Zykov notes, construction GOSTs When installing a window, a whole range of special materials and technologies must be used. In practice, many elements are forgotten.
Alexey Zykov
Director of Binom LLC
Slopes are often performed by non-specialists who believe that polyurethane foam is a panacea. According to GOST, when installing a window, it is necessary, in addition to thermal insulation, to provide waterproofing of the joint on the street side and a vapor barrier on the room side. If you forget about these points and use foam as a heat insulator, then moisture will penetrate between the wall, frame and foam, and the foam will begin to collapse. As a result, we will end up with frozen, bad-smelling, dirty slopes. The cost of a full installation is about 3-4 thousand rubles. for one window. It is clear that window companies with too affordable prices they will not be able to do everything according to the rules.
If cold air penetrates into the cracks between the window and the wall, then, as suggested above, you can seal them with sealant. But this will only be a temporary solution. When the frosts recede, you should full cycle works on slope insulation. It will cost from 10 thousand rubles. for one window. By the way, cracks formed under the window sill can also be cured.
Timur Abdullaev
It is necessary to clear the space under the window sill 3-4 cm down and 4-6 cm deep. Fill the resulting groove with foam. Just before purchasing it, you should consult a store or a specialist. If it is not possible to use this method, it is permissible to simply seal the cracks with sealant or use sheet and roll insulation, which can be glued to the wall under the window sill.
Door to the entrance
The door leading from the apartment to the entrance can also cause cold weather in the house. To improve the thermal insulation properties of a door, it is often enough to replace rubber compressor and adjust door hinges. The cost of such work is from 1000 rubles. If there are gaps in the contact areas door frame to the walls, then you can use the above-mentioned insulation methods using sealant and polyurethane foam.
Central heating radiators
Commenting on the question of ways to eliminate “frost” in an apartment, master Alexey Zykov explained that the homeowner needs to take care not only of eliminating heat loss, but also of achieving sufficient heating power. In particular, he believes that the second problem can be solved by installing bimetallic batteries. If this is not enough, then you can use heated floors and infrared heaters.
Director Sergei Rodionov warns that in houses with central heating can't bet aluminum radiators. They are vomited by the pressure of the water. You can only use bimetal or steel modern batteries. Have proven themselves very well Radiators Purmo. The size of the battery depends on the area of the room - one section per 2 square meters. m. Replacing batteries in a room of 15-16 square meters. m. will cost 8-10 thousand rubles. (including materials).
You can increase the efficiency of the battery without replacing it. It is enough to attach a layer of reflective heat insulator to the wall behind the radiator. In the simplest version, it can be ordinary food foil glued to thin foam plastic or cork. This “sandwich” is attached to the wall with the foil facing outward - towards the radiator. There are also ready-made solutions. IN construction stores Several types of roll insulation are sold, which is a metallized film glued to a sheet of foamed polypropylene or other polymer. To make a reflective screen using a battery, you can use, for example, “Izospan” (FD, FS or FX), “Folgoplast SP” or “Porilex”. True, as builders note, these materials are sold in rolls at a price of 1.5-2 thousand rubles. Creating screens even for a multi-room apartment will require only a small part of this volume. The rest will be superfluous. The most acceptable editorial option was found in the OBI store. For 345 rub. here you can buy a roll of Porilex 3 mm thick. and an area of 6 sq. m.
You can attach a sheet of such material to the wall using “liquid nails.”
It is believed that installing a reflective screen behind a radiator can increase the temperature in the room by 2-3 degrees. However, there may be unpleasant consequences. It happens that mold or mildew appears behind the screen.
It is better to insulate the ceiling from the outside
Builders notice that the need for ceiling insulation rarely arises - upward heat loss occurs almost exclusively in apartments on the top floors.
Alexander Goette
In the apartment on top floor The easiest way to insulate the ceiling is to renew the layer of expanded clay backfill in the attic. Perhaps, during the construction of the house, expanded clay was poured incorrectly, or it was already in finished house someone borrowed it for their own purposes. But there are houses where the height of the attic is only a few tens of centimeters and it is impossible to reach the ceiling of a cold room. Then you have to insulate the ceiling from inside the apartment. Usually a 5 cm layer of mineral wool is sufficient for this. We attach it to plastic “mushrooms” and sew it up with plasterboard.
Sex question
Most often, problems with cold floors are experienced by residents of the first floor. The insulation technology depends on the floor design.
Timur Abdullaev
If the floor is on joists, you need to make sure that there is a sufficient layer of expanded clay underneath it, and also check whether the pipe passages are covered with insulation. If this is not the case, then literally under floorboard Cold air will penetrate from the basement or from the street. We had a case where ice formed right on a layer of expanded clay. We replaced the expanded clay and insulated the space under the floor.
If the floor is laid on a screed, insulation can be placed under it. Foamed polystyrene is usually used. Another popular option is installing underfloor heating. Often the problem of a cold floor can be solved simply by changing flooring. As designer and head of Studio-33 Valentina Ivleva notes, replacing laminate with natural gives good results wooden parquet or at cork covering. The price of high-quality parquet is from 1,500 rubles. per sq. m., a cork costs from 950 to 1500 rubles. per square. Plus, you will have to pay from 500 to 1000 rubles for styling. per sq. m.
Another simple option is to lay carpet over the existing floor. Its price starts from 700-800 rubles. per sq. m.
Sergey Zanin
We were given the task of eliminating freezing of the floor in a room with a balcony. The floor is made of planks with joists. We found out that cold air got under the boards through a hole under balcony door. The floor of the room was opened at a distance of 1.5 meters from the balcony. Here the logs were removed, the hole was covered with foam, and waterproofing was done. After this, a continuous screed was made in place of the dismantled floor, and a warm floor was installed on it. Then the entire room was covered with laminate. The cost of work without laying laminate was about 9 thousand rubles, materials - 8 thousand rubles.
Cold walls in panels
The weak point of panel high-rise buildings is the joints between the slabs of the outer wall. They are sealed with a rubber "sausage". But over the years of operation of the building, the seams could be broken, the caulking could crack, and cold air enters the apartment.
Alexey Zykov
Director of Binom LLC
Very often in panel houses it gets cold due to poor condition interpanel seams. In such cases, we open up the entire height of the corner of the apartment from the inside, adjacent to the outer wall, replace the padding, and treat the seam with a hydrophobic agent. Then we restore the corner of the room using plaster on the reinforcing wall. Linear meter Such work costs from 250 to 500 rubles.
To replace the rubber “sausage”, builders today can use hard grades of mineral wool or polyurethane foam. In principle, both options are acceptable. The main thing is not to forget to waterproof the joint before driving.
“Laying” the wall is a last resort
According to Ekaterinburg builders, the methods described above for eliminating cold bridges almost always give the desired result - the apartment becomes warm. But sometimes a wall facing the street has to be truly insulated. IN apartment buildings close outer wall insulation can only be done from the inside - from the side of the apartment. You can use polystyrene foam, mineral wool, glass wool, ecowool, foam glass, liquid-ceramic thermal insulation, cork wallpaper and polystyrene foam wallpaper with thermal insulation properties.
However, according to the remark of executive director Alexei Rylov, some of the listed insulation materials should be used carefully. Wall insulation with inside leads to the fact that the main wall, cut off from the room by insulation, cools more than before. This leads to a shift in the dew point closer to the inner surface of the wall. The dew point is the area inside a wall that has a temperature at which steam in the pores of brick or concrete turns into water. After installing the insulation, the dew point may reach inner surface main wall or even end up inside a layer of insulation. It will start to get wet, fungus may develop, and the moisture will damage the drywall that covers the thermal insulation layer.
According to Alexey Rylov, the use of mineral wool and similar materials is a surrogate solution. It is more correct to increase the mass of the wall by covering it from the inside with warm plaster. Even a centimeter layer of it gives a good result. Practice shows that warm plaster without any special technical tricks, it can be applied in a layer of up to 3 cm.
Alexey Zykov
Director of Binom LLC
Here is the method that I personally use. We apply hydrophobe such as “Penetron”, “Penecrete”, etc. to the wall. It is absorbed into concrete by 0.4 meters. In fact, we recorded the dew point. Next, we insulate the wall with mineral wool with a density of 150 and a thickness of at least 50 mm. We cover the cotton wool with plasterboard in 2 layers. Another insulation option is with a gap of 5 mm. From the main wall we mount a wall of foam glass blocks and put plaster on it under the mesh.
Insulating a wall using plasterboard and mineral wool will cost about 800 rubles. per sq. m. Including 500 rub. – cost of work, 300 rubles. – materials. Insulation with cork mats will cost about the same: 400 rubles. the cost of the mat and 400 rubles. – leveling the wall with plaster.
For those who are afraid of problems with the dew point, builders advise installing a heated film floor on the wall (under the finishing layer). It will warm the wall and move the dew point closer to the street. It will be possible to avoid getting the wall wet, but the price for this will be increased energy costs. In addition, it will be impossible to drive a nail into such a wall.
As an alternative warm floors Alexey Zykov suggests using compact infrared heaters aimed at a cold wall. This method of wall insulation can be implemented by any homeowner without the involvement of a construction team.
Insulating the ceiling in an apartment is more necessary for extreme floors of the house. Above the ceilings upper floors there are either unheated technical attics or flat roofs. Here it is necessary to heat and sound insulate the ceiling, select a material that meets these requirements.
Insulation of the ceiling of a basement or plinth, relevant for lower floors. Here the cold penetrates through the ceilings of basements and basements of buildings. This also applies to private houses.
It is not always possible to thermally insulate an apartment from the basement, attic or roof. More often it is necessary to insulate an apartment from the floor of the lower floors and from the ceiling of the uppermost apartments.
Insulating the ceiling of an apartment from the inside for residential premises has a number of requirements SNiP 02/23/2003 “THERMAL PROTECTION OF BUILDINGS”, A SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00 determines the sanitary epidemiological requirements for residential buildings and premises. With the rise in prices for space heating, the demand for the service of insulating the ceiling of an apartment has increased, especially from residents of the outermost floors. The bulk of heat loss occurs in ceilings and basement floors. Ceiling insulation from the attic side and from the floor side are similar.
Old housing stock - apartments built in the middle or end of the last century have attic floors, insulated bulk materials: expanded clay, slag, which, although durable, are inferior in terms of thermal insulation properties in comparison with light thermal insulation materials and place an increased load on the attic floor.
Major repairs and reconstruction of such floors involve diagnostics load-bearing structures, replacement, thermal insulation. The same reconstruction is carried out in private houses, when the roofing and attic space under the attic.
Attics have floors in the form concrete slabs, or floor joists to which the subfloor is mounted, and between the joists it is filled or laid thermal insulation material . A budget option- this is to increase the thickness of the layer with bedding bulk materials on previously laid insulation. Fall asleep even layer expanded clay, slag, cellulose. The second option is to lay insulation between the joists. This classic version, which is suitable for both concrete and wooden floors.
(2) – the insulation can be of any kind, if the attic is non-residential, if it is an attic, then the insulation is chosen from environmentally friendly materials: basalt wool , cellulose, eco cotton wool, expanded clay. The logs (5) are made from edged boards 40 x 150 mm, impregnated with anti-rotting substances.
Vapor barrier material(6) laid below and above the insulation. Usually the logo on films is applied on the side that does not allow steam or moisture to pass through, but if you do not know which side to lay the film on, contact the seller. Instructions are included with the film materials. Instead of a membrane film (which is expensive), a regular one is laid on the slab plastic film or glassine. A film is needed on top of the insulation if it is a living space.
How to insulate the ceiling in an apartment
For attic room More attention is paid to the ceiling under the roof; heat leaks here in winter and overheating of the attic in summer. Insulation attic floor rather, it plays the role of sound insulation, and therefore the counter rail (3) serves to cushion and create a gap between the vapor barrier and the floor. This gap is necessary for ventilation and evaporation of moisture from the insulation. If this cold attic, then ladders for walking are placed on top of the logs.
Insulation is selected according to three indicators: density, thermal conductivity coefficient l -lambda And price.
Effective in degree thermal conductivity are materials. for which l – 0.03 – 0.06. The density of these materials is expressed in kg/m3.
By price and thermal conductivity the best insulation materials are: mineral wool (glass wool, stone wool and slag wool), cellulose, polystyrene foam. Expensive insulation materials: wood fiber, polyurethane foam, cork. Insulation on the ceiling is chosen from two functions: heat and sound insulation of the ceiling. Medium and high density board materials meet these criteria. Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the apartment is carried out environmentally clean materials, non-flammable.
Insulation of the ceiling of an apartment on the top floor is sometimes carried out not only because of heat loss in winter, but also because heat the temperature in the room during the day reaches +30 +40 degrees and the cost of air conditioning devastates the homeowner’s wallet.
Step-by-step instructions for insulating the ceiling in an apartment from the inside
Ceiling concrete floor Before gluing PAROK panels or other medium-density boards, prepare as follows.
Use a metal scraper or brush to remove loose plaster and paint from the ceiling. Then the cracks and cracks are filled with putty and a primer is applied. Afterwards, an adhesive solution is prepared from the dry mixture in a container. Buy quick-setting glue “Typhoon” or another, read the instructions. Using a hand mixer or a drill with an attachment, dilute enough glue to be used within 2 hours. It is not recommended to add water to the drying mixture. Dispose of any leftovers.
Preparing the panels for gluing. Apply an adhesive solution to the rough side of the panel. Then use a comb spatula to even out the thickness of the layer. We glue the panel, starting from the far corner of the room.
In order for the panels to fit tightly to each other, they must be glued in a checkerboard pattern. Between two parallel panels a gap is left 2-3 mm narrower than the panel. Then the next panel fits tightly between them without seams.
This is what the ceiling looks like after the insulation is complete.
Then there are two options, if the ceilings are high, then it is recommended to do suspended ceiling, then there is no need to stick on a painting mesh, putty, prime, or paint. The cost of these works is comparable, but the speed is not: the suspended ceiling is completed in a few hours.
Insulating the ceiling in an apartment is also soundproofing. The best way comply with these conditions - installation suspension system on damper suspensions with installation of heat-insulating boards laminated on both sides with aluminum foil on the ceiling.
The slabs are easily attached to the ceiling with dowels and umbrellas. Then they are decorated with tension or suspended ceiling. This is just for the upper floors, where you have to protect yourself from radiant heat penetrating through flat roof. Aluminum foil reflects radiant energy by 90%. These panels are delivered to order, because they are difficult to find in the open market.
Useful video
Let's look at specific example how to insulate the ceiling in an apartment:
