Insulation of gas silicate walls. How to insulate gas silicate blocks from the outside. External insulation of walls made of gas silicate blocks with mineral wool and expanded polystyrene

Gas silicate (aerated concrete) is one of the types of cellular concrete.

Regulatory documents

In GOST 25485-89 “Cellular concrete. Specifications" it is stated that:

1.2.2. According to their intended purpose, concrete is divided into:

• structural;
• structural and thermal insulation;
• thermal insulation.

1.2.4. Based on the method of pore formation, concrete is divided into:

• for aerated concrete;
• for foam concrete;
• for gas foam concrete.

Advice! If you decide to build a house using concrete blocks, read the relevant regulatory documents on concrete (GOST and SNiP).

The cellular structure in aerated concrete is formed with the help of gas, in foam concrete - with the help of foam.

More about concrete, about the quality requirements for their production, about their operational characteristics and properties read in the following documents:

• GOST 25820-83 Lightweight concrete. Technical specifications;
• GOST 25820-2000 Lightweight concrete. Technical specifications;
• GOST R 52541-2006 Fire-resistant concrete. Preparation of samples for testing;
• GOST 26633-91 Heavy and fine-grained concrete. Technical specifications;
• GOST 25881-83 Chemically resistant concrete. Test methods;
• GOST 25246-82 Chemically resistant concrete. Technical specifications;
• GOST 31359-2007 Autoclave-hardening cellular concrete. Technical specifications;
• GOST 24316-80 Concrete. Method for determining heat generation during hardening;
• GOST 12730.3-78 Concrete. Method for determining water absorption;
• GOST 12730.2-78 Concrete. Method for determining humidity;
• GOST 22024-76 Concrete. Method for measuring thermal conductivity with a cylindrical probe;
• GOST 25192-82 Concrete. Classification. General technical requirements;
• GOST 10060.3-95 Concrete. Dilatometric method for accelerated determination of frost resistance;
• GOST 10060.1-95 Concrete. Basic method for determining frost resistance.

The choice of cellular concrete in housing construction

If during low-rise construction you choose blocks made of cellular concrete, then the calculation optimal thickness housing walls are made on the basis of SNiP 23-01-99-2003 “Building climatology” and SNiP II-3-79-2005 “Building heating engineering”.

You have settled on using aerated concrete blocks in building a house. Then, according to these SNiPs, it turns out that for middle zone Russia, the thickness of walls made of such blocks should be in the range of 640 – 1070 (mm). This is a calculation based on modern thermal resistance standards for the middle zone and methods that were developed by the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation.

Manufacturers of aerated concrete blocks assure in advertising materials that a wall thickness of 300 - 380 (mm) is sufficient. But, did they take into account in their calculations the inevitable heat loss through “cold bridges” (reinforcing belts, jumpers, mortar that holds the masonry together), the natural humidity of the climatic influence of the middle zone (aerated concrete absorbs moisture)?

Advice! By selecting gas silicate blocks, do the laying using a special adhesive solution. Then the thickness of the thin-layer seam will be only 2 - 10 (mm), which will have little effect on the change in the thermal conductivity of the entire wall. The glue itself has good thermal insulation properties.

But, only you yourself (with the help of designers) need to correctly calculate and decide on the basis thermal characteristics, frost resistance and naturally mechanical strength(density):

• aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks use in construction;
• what thickness should you use to make the walls of your home in order to maintain coziness and comfort in the house;
• Which masonry mortar Use for gas silicate blocks.

The choice, of course, also depends on the price of cellular concrete blocks. But, it must be linked with guarantees of the actual service life of aerated concrete and foam concrete materials under climatic influences and with the associated costs for specific (and therefore more expensive) fasteners, reinforcement and monolithic foundation, when choosing gas silicate blocks.

Important! When choosing, be sure to remember that due to the poor elasticity characteristics, for masonry from gas silicate blocks you definitely need an expensive monolithic strip foundation. Otherwise, during shrinkage, cracks will inevitably appear in aerated concrete walls.

Materials, methods and systems for insulating housing from gas silicate blocks

Gas silicate blocks are now very widely used in private, low-rise construction. Gas silicate itself good heat insulator. But, for the reasons stated above (“cold bridges”, absorption of natural moisture, masonry joints), the masonry made from it must be additionally insulated and protected. This makes the question relevant: how to insulate a house made of gas silicate blocks?

Insulation materials

When deciding how to insulate a house made of gas silicate from the outside, traditional thermal insulation materials are widely used:

• expanded polystyrene, popularly known as polystyrene foam (PPS);
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam ();
• "thermal insulating" plaster mixtures, used in the so-called “wet method” of insulation.

Somewhere, from the beginning of the 90s in Russia, they began to use walls made of any material, including gas silicate walls, thermal panels (thermal siding, thermal siding).
Thermal panels combine high thermal insulation properties and a finished finishing appearance.

Thermal panels are produced with different finishes:

• with natural stone;
• with porcelain stoneware;
• with clinker tiles;
• with ceramic tiles;
• seamless thermal panels (without visible masonry seam).

The type of finishing does not affect the thermophysical parameters of thermal panels.

There is an opinion that gas silicate house It’s better not to insulate it with thermal panels, as this prevents it from “breathing.” Practice shows that having created a ventilated facade behind thermal panels, structural and technological openings under the roof canopy and in the basement of the building, gas silicate continues to breathe normally without accumulating moisture. Some do additionally exhaust ventilation in a house made of gas silicate blocks.

Insulating walls made of gas silicate blocks outside the house using thermal panels has a number of undeniable advantages over other materials:

• Durability while maintaining its original appearance (do not require cosmetic repairs for a long time).
• A combination of high performance and good thermal insulation properties.
• Environmentally friendly with high resistance to mechanical damage.
• “Fast” technology for installing insulation systems with thermal panels.
• Elasticity. It allows you to avoid the appearance of cracks as a result of temperature fluctuations and foundation subsidence.
• Thermal panels can be installed year-round.

Insulation of a gas silicate house with thermal panels

Thermal panels themselves are a ready-made two- or three-component insulation system. They already have a combination:

• (PUF), less commonly used expanded polystyrene (EPS);
• facing tiles;
• The structural layer is moisture-resistant oriented strand board (OSB).

Thermal panels can be mounted on the wall:

1. On the wall sheathing.
2. Directly on the wall.

Very important! Remember, on gas silicate walls we attach thermal panels to the lathing. We make the lathing from galvanized profiles.

Thermal panels facilitate the process of insulating gas silicate houses with your own hands. Expensive assistance from highly professional installers is not required.

To install the thermal panel insulation system on the sheathing, we need the following tools:

• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• spray foam gun;
• building level.

Installation instructions for the gas silicate insulation system - insulation - thermal panels:

1. On a gas silicate house we attach thermal panels to galvanized metal sheathing so that there is a ventilated space between the thermal panels and the gas silicate:

• On the lower part of the gas silicate wall, using a level, mark a horizontal line.
• Along this horizontal line we install a starting L-shaped strip (galvanized steel) measuring 150 by 150 (mm), using a hammer drill and a screwdriver. We fasten it with self-tapping screws, based on each linear meter five pieces.
• Above this initial bar we install straight hangers. Why do we make markings on the wall for them? Using a hammer drill, according to this marking, for each suspension we drill two holes for plastic dowels. We install dowels into these holes and use a screwdriver to sew the hangers with self-tapping screws.
• We install vertical strips of U-shaped galvanized profile (60 mm x 27 mm) into these hangers. We fasten these guide strips with four self-tapping screws into the hangers, two on each side. In this way, we sheathe guide profiles along the entire perimeter of the house wall (the distance between the guides is no more than 40 cm).
• In the corners of the house, and on the corners window slopes We put two planks. This is necessary for attaching individual corner and window elements and adjacent thermal panels to them. You can do without double strips, which make it easier to install corner and window elements; then the thermal panels are joined to each other using the method “at an angle of 45 degrees” (the joint is foamed).
• Along the initial finishing line, at the bottom of the base, at the level of the horizontal L-shaped starting strip, using a building level, we install the ebb. We attach it with self-tapping screws (4.2 mm x 70 mm) to the vertical guide strips installed in the hangers.
• We install mineral wool into a frame made of galvanized profiles - this is a “breathable” insulation (you can use polystyrene foam boards). This prevents cold air from entering the frame sheathing.
• We attach thermal panels to the vertical profiles of the frame with self-tapping screws. The consumption of self-tapping screws depends on its size.

1. We install corner and window elements. All mounting clearances and seal the cracks at the corners, at windows, loggias and doors with foam. The seams between the thermal panels are rubbed with grout, DSP.

Very important! In a thermal system, gas silicate is a thermal panel; it is better not to use even those treated with an antiseptic or preservative for lathing. wooden blocks. Use only galvanized profile.

Ceiling insulation, insulation plastic windows and insulating the loggia of a house made of aerated concrete will also come in handy with our harsh winters.

You can also insulate a gas silicate house with expanded polystyrene slabs installed in the cells of the sheathing (or glued special glue to the gas silicate wall).

Aerated concrete blocks are widely used in modern construction both in our country and abroad. Despite the fact that aerated concrete has good thermal insulation qualities, walls made of this material must be insulated (to reduce the cost of heating the house and increase the energy-saving performance of the entire building). Insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam is very effective and inexpensive way achieving this goal.

Selection of insulation material

Experts say that it is more expedient to insulate a structure made of aerated concrete from the outside than from the inside of the house: firstly, it is not lost effective area premises; secondly, the “dew point” shifts beyond the aerated concrete blocks. To insulate aerated concrete buildings from the outside, the most various materials: mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex), polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene). Expanded polystyrene is the most popular due to its low thermal conductivity, durability and low cost. This material is fireproof due to the fact that it contains anti-foam. Also, the advantages of the material include ease of processing and installation: it is easy to cut into pieces the desired shape, and the slabs standard sizes(0.5 x 1, 1 x 1, 1 x 2 m) is convenient to attach to aerated concrete walls. The thickness of the material (from 20 to 100 mm) allows you to create a sufficient heat-insulating layer (if necessary, the panels can be folded in half). Also, to order, factories produce non-standard sheets of expanded polystyrene with a thickness of up to 500 mm. That is, for insulating aerated concrete with polystyrene foam there is big choice finished products.

Calculation of insulation thickness

To determine the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, you need to make a simple calculation. We take data for calculations from reference tables. SNiP standardizes the total required heat transfer resistance for walls (Ro) depending on the region (measured in m² °C/W). This value is the sum of the heat transfer resistance of the wall material (Rst) and the insulation layer (Rth): Ro = Rst + Rth. For example, we choose St. Petersburg (Ro=3.08).

Heat transfer resistance is calculated using the formula R= δ ⁄ λ, where δ is the thickness of the material (m), λ is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material (W/m °C). Let's say our house is built from aerated concrete blocks of the D500 brand, 300 mm thick (λ = 0.42 - we take it from the reference table). Then the wall’s own heat transfer resistance without thermal insulation will be Rst = 0.3/0.42 = 0.72, and the heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer Rt = Ro-Rst = 3.08-0.72 = 2.36. As a thermal insulation material, we choose light polystyrene with a density of 10 kg/mᶟ (λ=0.044 W/m °C).

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is calculated using the formula δ=Rут λ. The thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene with a density of 10 kg/mᶟ is λ=0.044 W/m °C.

The thickness of the insulation is δ=2.36 0.044=0.104 m, that is, according to the rules and regulations, standard polystyrene slabs with a thickness of 10 cm are suitable for our house.

We check our calculations for the “dew point” temperature (formation of condensation in the wall):

The graphs show that the condensation zone (the area where the wall temperature lines coincide with the “dew point” temperature) is located in the heat-insulating layer and even at an outside air temperature of -30˚C does not reach the aerated concrete. Conclusion: our thermal insulation layer is calculated correctly, that is, even at the most low temperatures a wall made of aerated concrete will not become saturated with moisture.

Let's say you don't want to make any calculations, and you decide to just buy a material 5 cm thick. Let's see in what area the condensation zone will be located at this thickness and all other conditions being equal. For clarity, here is a graph:

We see that moisture is formed not only in the heat-insulating layer, but also in aerated concrete. The presence of water, the thermal conductivity of which is significantly higher (λ≈0.6) than that of aerated concrete and expanded polystyrene, leads to a decrease in the heat-saving characteristics of the walls of the structure, that is, the result is a “cold house”.

Insulation of walls made of aerated concrete blocks

Despite the fact that the application polystyrene foam boards to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, it reduces its “breathing” properties; this material is widely used. The technology for arranging a thermal insulation layer is quite simple and can be easily done independently.

Preparing the walls

The surface of aerated concrete blocks is quite flat, so preparing the walls comes down to removing the buildup of adhesive mortar in the area of ​​the interblock seams. Potholes (if any formed during the construction process) are filled with repair cement mortar. Then we cover the entire surface of the wall with an antiseptic solution (to prevent mold and mildew formation). After the antiseptic has dried, we prime the walls to improve adhesion when gluing polystyrene slabs to aerated concrete.

Installation of thermal insulation boards

We cover the walls of the building with sheets of expanded polystyrene using special adhesives. As glue you can use ready-made dry mixtures (Ceresit CT 85, T-Avangard-K, Kreisel 210, Bergauf ISOFIX), liquid adhesive compositions(Bitumast) or ready-made assembly adhesives in aerosol packaging (Tytan Styro 753, Ceresit ST 84 “Express”, Soudal Soudatherm, TechnoNIKOL 500). We apply glue to the slabs along the perimeter and additionally in several places on the surface.

Important! The adhesives should not contain solvents or other chemical components that can damage the surface of expanded polystyrene or disrupt the structure of the material.

Many adhesive compositions allow installation of slabs at ambient temperatures from -10˚С to +40˚С. However, experts in the field of house construction recommend carrying out thermal insulation work at a temperature not lower than +7˚С and in dry, windless weather.

First, glue the first bottom row along the entire perimeter of the building. foam boards, then fasten the remaining rows. We press the slabs with force against the wall surface and lay them in a checkerboard pattern. We check the correct installation with a level.

Important! In the corners of the structure, the panels are laid end-to-end, that is, in such a way that in one row the panel from the end of the building extends to the thickness of the sheet, and the panel located at an angle of 90 degrees rests against it. In the next row, the operation is performed in reverse order.

After the adhesive composition has completely dried (about 1 day), we additionally fasten each sheet using special dowels with large caps (“umbrellas”), which should not contain metal parts. The fact is that they rust and create additional cold bridges in the heat-insulating layer: that is, the dowel itself and the central nail must be plastic. Depending on the size, 5-6 dowels are needed for each sheet.

Using a puncher, we make a hole in the heat insulation layer and aerated concrete wall, then use a hammer to hammer in the dowel and insert the fixing nail.

After the installation of all fastening dowels is completed, we proceed to finishing walls

External finishing of polystyrene foam insulator

Since polystyrene foam has low strength and is susceptible to negative influence ultraviolet radiation, after its installation it is necessary to carry out finishing work.

First, on top of polystyrene foam using a special plaster mortar(or adhesive composition) we attach a fiberglass reinforcing mesh, which prevents cracking of the plaster and improves adhesion. After complete drying, apply a layer of finishing decorative plaster. Such external finishing is quite sufficient to give the heat-insulating layer the necessary strength.

We insulate the floor with polystyrene foam

Insulation of a concrete floor with polystyrene foam is carried out in sheets with a density of 20-30 kg/mᶟ. We make flooring of polystyrene foam boards as follows:

• do a preliminary leveling fill (this is done if the difference in height of the base exceeds 5 mm), let it dry;
• prime the surface;
• We attach a damper tape along the entire perimeter of the room to the bottom of the walls;
• We lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the screed (ordinary polyethylene is quite suitable: at the joints the material is overlapped - at least 10 cm, on the walls we add at least 20 cm; we fasten everything with construction tape);
• we lay polystyrene sheets on the floor according to the groove-tenon principle in a checkerboard pattern (the tenons must fit completely into the grooves);
• We lay a vapor barrier and reinforcing mesh on top of the thermal insulation layer;
• We make the screed of the required thickness.

On a note! This method of insulation is very effective, but the height of the room is reduced by 10-15 cm.

Floor insulation can be done not only using expanded polystyrene slabs, but also using expanded polystyrene concrete, making a screed out of it (since the thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene concrete is low - λ=0.05÷0.07 W/m °C). We prepare the solution for such filling ourselves by mixing the necessary ingredients: 20 kg of cement, 12.5 liters of water and 0.125 m³ of polystyrene foam granules, or we buy a ready-made dry mixture. After insulation with polystyrene concrete, we make a finishing screed (if necessary) and lay the floor covering.

Ceiling insulation

Polystyrene foam can be successfully used to insulate indoor ceilings. As a rule, thin sheets 5 cm thick are used for these purposes. Fastening the slabs to the ceiling is similar to laying them on external wall. The only difference is that you can use adhesives and plaster mixtures that are intended for indoor use (they are cheaper than for outdoor use).

In custody

By correctly calculating the thickness of the thermal insulation layer made of polystyrene foam and following the technology of laying sheets and external finishing, you can build a warm and comfortable home for living in any region.

In the previous article we talked about. Today we will talk about buildings made of foam concrete. One way to preserve heat is to insulate the house from the outside using gas silicate blocks. Gas silicate blocks have high heat transfer properties, so you should immediately protect your home from heat loss. Below you can find the answer to the question: “How to insulate a house made of gas silicate blocks?” Following the method of insulating a house from gas silicate blocks will help to avoid mistakes in the process. After all, the finishing of walls made of gas silicate should be carried out taking into account factors such as climatic conditions, the thickness of the blocks and the specifics of construction. You still need to decide on the material to work with.

Why is it necessary to insulate houses made of gas silicate blocks?

External insulation is always better than internal insulation, since the dew point moves not into the wall, but into the insulation layer.

Before insulating gas silicate blocks, which are cellular concrete, you need to familiarize yourself with their characteristics. On construction market gas silicate has gained great popularity for its high performance properties. This material is durable, environmentally friendly, soundproofing and economical. Savings are ensured by heat retention. A building made of cellular concrete reduces heating costs by up to 40%.

But it is worth considering such a disadvantage as the ability to transmit moisture. Gas silicate perfectly absorbs liquid due to its porous structure and masonry joints, so the wall should be protected. The solution to this problem is to insulate the gas silicate from the outside.

Existing methods of insulation

Traditional materials for moisture protection are:

• extruded polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• plaster mixtures.

If we talk about new products that have appeared relatively recently on the building materials market, we should mention thermal panels. They not only provide excellent protection from moisture, but also give an excellent appearance to the building. True, the cost is higher than that of conventional insulation. To insulate a wall made of gas silicate blocks you will need:

• one of the above materials for thermal insulation;
• glue;
• container for diluting glue;
• dowels;
• drill;
• level;
• fiberglass mesh;
• building level;
• putty knife;
• plaster;
• primer;
• perforator;
• dye.

This is the main thing you need to have before starting insulation. Then you need to do everything preparatory work, which will ensure high-quality results. To begin with, the wall is cleaned of dirt and dust. Is it necessary to insulate a house made of gas silicate blocks without preliminary cleaning? It is not recommended, because thorough cleaning ensures that the glue adheres to the wall insulation.

You can clean the wall using a spray bottle. This will ensure thorough dust removal. After cleaning, all visible surface irregularities and defects are eliminated. For this, plaster is used, and then a primer. The primer is applied with a brush, which will serve as an additional means of removing debris. If uneven surfaces are left, the insulation may be damaged.

The use of mineral wool for insulation

The mineral wool is glued to universal construction adhesive and additionally nailed with dowels.

Gas silicate, as a vapor-permeable material, is preferably insulated because it also allows steam to pass through. Therefore, insulating gas silicate with mineral wool will extend the life of the walls and eliminate additional problems at internal insulation. After all, with vapor-tight external insulation in the house, you will have to additionally equip ventilation. Insulation with mineral wool provides additional sound insulation and gives an attractive appearance structure. In addition, mineral wool has non-flammable properties. This material is purchased in slabs.

Work on insulation with mineral wool consists of the following stages:

• installation of slabs mineral wool;
• then you should leave the insulation for gas silicate blocks for a while so that it can stand;
• installation of reinforcing mesh;
• primer is applied;
• plaster is applied;
• Painting is carried out, but only after the plaster has dried.

Leave a gap between the plates of no more than 5 mm, otherwise cracks will appear.

A level is used to lay the first row of slabs evenly. They are installed according to the principle brickwork so that their seams do not match. They are attached to the wall using glue, which is used according to the instructions indicated on the package. Then it is carried out additional fixation dowels: in the middle of the slab and at the joints. A layer of glue is applied to the mineral wool, in which the mesh is embedded. It is necessary to make an overlap of 1 cm. After drying, a second layer of glue is applied. Plaster is a vapor-permeable material, so its application does not block the passage of steam in mineral wool and gas silicate. The house continues to breathe.

How to use expanded polystyrene to insulate a gas silicate house from the outside?

Concrete blocks can be insulated with polystyrene foam; the thickness of the insulation should be calculated based on the climate zone.

This material is environmentally friendly, fireproof and durable. It also has high energy saving rates. A foam thickness of 3 cm corresponds to 5.5 cm of mineral wool.

Foam boards are used for work. Insulating a house with this material is done as follows:

• slabs are installed;
• after that they should be left to settle for a day;
• tightened with dowels in the corners and in the middle;
• reinforcing mesh is attached;
• plaster is applied;
• The insulation is being painted.

To avoid the glue drying out, apply it only to part of the wall (for the bottom row of slabs).

Expanded polystyrene is laid using glue. A level is used for even laying, and the slabs are lightly pressed to adhere to the wall. The seams of each row should not match; there is no need to leave a gap between the plates. This will ensure reliable adhesion. For high-quality reinforcement, the corners of the building are first strengthened, and then the rest of the surface. You need to move from top to bottom. Subject to such technology and obtaining good result, the question of whether gas silicate can be insulated with foam plastic no longer arises.

Insulation using thermal panels

Thermal panels - aesthetics and thermal insulation in one bottle.

Thermal panels for insulating walls made of gas silicate blocks are a system of components such as insulation, cladding tiles and a moisture-resistant slab. The insulation can be in the form of polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. The moisture-resistant board is the structural layer, and the facing board allows you to avoid work at the final stages - puttying and painting. Installing thermal panels greatly simplifies the insulation process. Thermal panels are installed on the wall sheathing, and not on the wall itself.

The sheathing is made of galvanized steel and is attached to the wall using a screwdriver, hammer drill, self-tapping screws and dowels. The design consists of L-shaped strips, hangers, and U-shaped profiles. After installation is completed, insulation – expanded polystyrene or mineral wool – is placed into the frame made of profiles. Then thermal panels are attached to the structure profiles.

How to insulate a bathhouse made of gas silicate blocks?

Regardless of the protective material, it is necessary to leave ventilation gap for drying the heat insulator.

Insulation of a bathhouse made of gas silicate blocks is carried out in stages:

• protective material is attached;
• the sheathing is installed;
• the sheathing is stuffed (using clapboard).

Such materials for insulating the outside of a house made of gas silicate, such as mineral wool or polystyrene foam, are used equally often. But which one should you choose? Both insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages. If we compare them, then:

• low cost of materials;
• polystyrene foam has good thermal insulation properties, and mineral wool has a higher thermal conductivity coefficient;
• foam is more durable;
• polystyrene foam has increased flammability, while the second option is non-flammable.

Both options are good in their own way, but what is the best way to insulate gas silicate blocks? If we are talking about choosing a material for insulating a bath, then it is better to choose expanded polystyrene and its derivatives, because mineral wool absorbs more moisture that arises due to a large temperature difference. The cost of both materials is quite reasonable. A higher price will be for insulation using thermal panels. But as a result, the house will have a more attractive appearance. The installation process of thermal panels can be seen in the video:

Recently, the use of gas silicate blocks has become popular in the construction industry. It's quite cheap, fast and convenient. In this regard, we will consider why insulation is needed for buildings made of this material, how to properly insulate it, and what is the best way to insulate a house.

As you know, gas silicate is a porous material, which makes it warm. The thermal conductivity coefficient of cellular concrete (gas silicate) depends on the brand of this product (more details in the table), but in general the thermal conductivity of gas silicate blocks is very low and therefore, in theory, it does not require insulation. But it's not that simple.

Due to their structure, the blocks are very easily saturated with water. This leads to microcracks appearing. As a result, the lifespan and effectiveness of the material is significantly reduced. Insulating a house using gas silicate blocks from the outside solves this problem. External insulation also saves usable space inside the house.

Insulation methods

So, how to insulate a house made of gas silicate blocks? There are several ways:

• "Wet façade"

IN in this case insulation is glued to the walls of the house. This method is quite easy to perform even for those who have little experience in construction.

• "Ventilated facade".

This method involves a ventilated system and is more difficult to implement than the previous method.

Materials

How to insulate a house made of gas silicate blocks? There are several materials that are used as insulation for gas silicate blocks:

• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool;

Let's talk more about these materials.

Styrofoam

Foam plastic is one of the most common materials for insulating facades. Gas silicate walls are no exception. Despite its energy saving, it is also environmentally friendly and fireproof. Those who decide to insulate with foam plastic also note that it is quite cheap and easy to install.

What kind of foam should you use for such work? It all depends on your material well-being, but a fairly experienced specialist will say that it is better to make a layer of foam plastic 100 mm thick.

An experienced specialist will say that it is better to make a layer of foam plastic 100 mm thick.

Since the method of insulation for polystyrene foam is “ wet facade", the wall surface should be cleared of debris and primed with a primer deep penetration. Experts advise repeating the priming procedure about five times.

Re-priming should only be done when the previous layer has dried.

The next step is to paste the foam directly onto the gas silicate blocks. For this, a dry glue mixture is used. In the instructions on the packaging of this substance you can find all the necessary details for working with the glue.

Usually in country houses gas silicate blocks of the D200 brand are used, so do not skimp on the foam glue and apply it to the entire surface. Thus, the thermal insulation will fit tightly to the wall, which will have a beneficial effect on the insulation.

Foam sheets should be fastened from bottom to top and only when bottom sheet already firmly glued. Why? This will help prevent the sheet from slipping, breaking the level. For additional strength, you can install an L-shaped profile below, leveled.

In addition, foam plastic slabs should be fastened in the same way as brick laying is done, that is, with a shift of half a sheet. This will also increase the strength of the structure.

The gaps between the plates should be covered with glue or blown out polyurethane foam. You can also do it a little differently. As mentioned above, it is recommended to make a layer of foam 100 mm. However, to achieve this, it is not necessary to buy slabs of such thickness. 50 mm slabs will be sufficient, but glued in two layers so that the joints do not coincide. This will help you to worry less about blowing in seams and the insulation of gas silicate will be of better quality. The downside is that this method will require a little more money.

When the glue has dried and set well, the foam is additionally fixed with plastic umbrella dowels. After this, a layer of glue is applied, into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded, and then, after it dries, another layer of glue is applied.

The finishing touch is applying plaster and painting or decorative plaster. It all depends on your taste.

Mineral wool

Gas silicate is a vapor-tight material, therefore mineral wool, whose vapor permeability is a well-known fact, is suitable for insulation. It also does not burn and has soundproofing properties.

But there are also disadvantages. For example, cotton wool absorbs water and with any serious damage to the plaster layer or a crack, it loses its thermal insulation. Therefore, not all experts agree on whether it is possible to insulate facades with it.

We cannot say directly whether it is possible or not to insulate your house in this way, but in any case, if you still decide to choose mineral wool as insulation, its algorithm of actions is similar to that of attaching polystyrene foam.

To begin with, it is worth clearing the walls of debris and dust by priming the surface of the walls made of a gas silicate block. And in this case, you shouldn’t limit yourself to just one time. It's better to repeat several times.

Installation of wool slabs is carried out in the same way as for foam plastic. The first row is leveled and attached to the wall using glue and dowels, which are fixed at the joints and in the middle of the slab. The next row is also installed with a half-slab offset so that the seams do not coincide.

After installation, you should give the insulation time to stand and dry, and only then can you continue work.

The next step is application to mineral wool. A mesh is attached to this glue, which is slightly recessed. You also need to overlap 1 cm at the joints of the mesh. After the glue has dried, apply another layer.

The final stage is, of course, plaster. At the same time, the house “breathes”, since the plaster allows steam to pass through. However, as already mentioned, be careful, since damage to the plaster layer will have a bad effect on the thermal insulation.

Thermal panels

What are thermal panels? This is a system of insulation, moisture-resistant boards and facing tiles. Typically the insulation is foam or mineral wool. well and facing tiles allows you to do without putty.

In addition, the tile protects gas silicate from mechanical damage and moisture, since it is usually made to look like brick or stone. Thus, thermal panels combine beauty and reliability.

This type of insulation refers to a “ventilated facade”. Although some experts say that with such insulation the wall “does not breathe,” but ventilation holes under the canopy and in the basement of the building this issue is easily resolved.

How is insulation done with thermal panels? Below is the algorithm of actions

Since thermal panels are heavier than polystyrene foam, the presence of an L-shaped strip under the starting row is mandatory. The plank is leveled and fixed with anchors in increments of 200 mm.

For aerated concrete, special dowels are used, the edges of which, while in the block, expand under the influence of the mechanism. This is important, because without it they simply will not hold on.

After installing the plank, you should proceed to the next stage, namely installation of the sheathing. It usually consists of galvanized metal UD profiles or wooden beams. The profile is installed on the starting strip and vertically attached parallel to the wall to the hangers. The suspensions are mounted with anchors at a distance of 500 mm from each other.

Thus, we sheathe the entire perimeter of the house. We install two strips on the corners and slopes, since this is necessary for installing the corner elements of thermal panels. At the level of the starting strip, below along the base, you need to install a low tide.

We close the space between the profiles with mineral wool or foam plastic boards. However, do not forget about the ventilation gap of 20-30 mm. We attach thermal panels to the profile using self-tapping screws. As in the case of foam plastic slabs, we install the tiles with the same shift. Well, the tightness is ensured by grooves for connecting the panels.

By the way, our partners do a good job of insulating houses made from gas blocks.

After finishing the work, all gaps are sealed with foam, and the screws and seams are rubbed down.

Also, instead of thermal panels, you can use siding. The principle of its installation is the same as that of thermal panels. However, under the siding, in addition to the insulation, a windproof membrane is installed.

So, today we looked at how to insulate a house from gas silicate from the outside. We also learned how to insulate gas silicate blocks from the outside and what materials can be used for this. How to insulate the house is, of course, up to you, but we hope that this information will help in creating a cozy, insulated house.

We wish you success in your endeavors!

Comments:

Insulating a house using gas silicate blocks is a reliable way to retain heat during the cold season. By itself, which includes gas silicate, it is an excellent heat insulator. However, due to high level moisture absorption of this material, as well as due to cold bridges that can form in places of masonry joints, walls made of aerated concrete need insulation and additional protection from moisture. Therefore, the question of how and how to insulate walls made of gas silicate is quite relevant today.

The need for work on insulation of private housing

It should be noted that load-bearing walls houses with a thickness of at least 30 cm, constructed from aerated concrete blocks with strength class D400, fully meet all standards in terms of thermal insulation. Therefore, they do not need to install an additional layer of insulating material.

However, in suburban one-story construction, gas silicate is very often used with a thickness of not 30 cm, but 20 cm with strength class D200. Walls made from such material have poor thermal insulation so they need additional insulation. External cladding plays an important role in the use of insulation. No matter how carefully the blocks are laid, without exterior finishing such a house will not have a beautiful appearance. Therefore, to make housing presentable, external finishing is used, which is best mounted on insulation in compliance with all standards for vapor and waterproofing.

From the above we can conclude that it is necessary to insulate walls made of gas silicate in the following cases:

• during construction, cellular concrete with a density below D500 was used;
• wall thickness does not exceed 30 cm;
• the masonry joints turned out to be thick;
• The house is located in a region with harsh climatic conditions.

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Materials for insulating gas silicate outside

High-quality thermal insulation involves insulating walls made of gas silicate blocks both outside and inside the house. When choosing a thermal insulation material, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics:

• thermal conductivity - the ability of a substance to transfer heat (the lower the value of this indicator, the more heat will be stored inside the house);
• breathability - the ability of insulation to allow air to pass through;
• vapor permeability - the ability of a material to transmit water vapor contained in the air;
• moisture protection - due to its porous structure, gas silicate absorbs moisture well, so it needs additional protection from higher level humidity;
• fire resistance - the ability of insulation to withstand open fire;
• resistance to the negative influence of living organisms and chemical substances, which allows you to increase the service life of the insulation.

Most popular thermal insulation materials For external insulation walls made of gas silicate blocks are:

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• thermal panels.

Mineral wool has been used as insulation for a very long time. However, even with the excellent quality of its production and correct use this material begins to lose its properties after just a few years thermal insulation characteristics. This is due to the fact that mineral wool is not able to fully protect walls from moisture. As positive aspects mineral wool, it is worth noting its fire resistance, environmental safety and ease of installation work.

External insulation of a gas silicate house with polystyrene foam also has several negative points. This material has a low level environmental safety and poor vapor permeability, which can negatively affect not only gas silicate blocks, but also the microclimate in the house.

Thermal panels combine excellent thermal insulation characteristics and beautiful appearance, so when using them there is no need to additionally produce external finishing Houses. There is an opinion that it is better not to insulate a house made of gas silicate blocks with thermal panels, as this does not allow the walls to breathe. However, you can get out of this situation very simply: create a ventilated façade using technological holes in the basement of the house and under the canopy.

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External insulation of walls made of gas silicate blocks with mineral wool and expanded polystyrene

To insulate walls with mineral wool (expanded polystyrene) with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• electric drill with a set of drills;
• building level;
• comb spatula;
• hammer;
• mineral wool (expanded polystyrene) in the form of slabs;
• deep penetration primer;
• glue;
• dowels

Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are attached directly to gas silicate, so the first step is to thoroughly clean the walls of dust and debris, and then treat them with a deep penetration primer, which will improve the adhesion of the glue. Next, according to the instructions, the glue itself is prepared, after which it is applied to the insulation sheet in an even layer using a comb spatula.

The first row of slabs is installed and their horizontal evenness is checked using a building level. The next rows must be laid with a slight shift so that the seams of the slabs do not coincide. For more reliable fixation of the slabs, plastic dowels are used, which are installed at the joints of the slabs (2 pcs.) and in the middle of each element (1 pc.). After the glue has set, the insulation can be plastered, having previously applied a reinforcing mesh to it, and then painted with facade paint.

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Do-it-yourself external insulation of a house with thermal panels

Insulation of walls made of gas silicate blocks along the facade: 1 - gas silicate block; 2 - horizontal sheathing – LVL timber 45*45mm; 3 - Ursa PureOne plate; 4 - vertical sheathing - LVL timber 45*45mm; 5 - hydro-windproof membrane; 6 - counter beam LVL 30*45mm.

Thermal panels allow not only to insulate walls made of gas silicate blocks, but also to reliably protect them from the negative effects of moisture and mechanical damage. This material is produced with finishing made of tiles, porcelain stoneware and natural stone.

Installation of thermal panels is carried out on a galvanized sheathing, which allows you to create between the insulation and building material ventilated space. First of all, an L-shaped starting strip is fixed at the bottom of the wall using a hammer drill and screws, the evenness of which is checked using a building level. Above the starting bar, hangers are attached into which the U-shaped profile bars are mounted. In this way, a frame is constructed over the entire finishing area.

Next, sheets of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene are laid between the profiles, after which thermal panels are attached to the vertical profiles using self-tapping screws. On last stage work, all installation gaps are sealed with foam, and the seams between the panels are sealed with a grout mixture.