If desired, minimum costs With enough time and effort, you can build a cage for rabbits yourself. It is enough to choose the most suitable design, purchase materials, develop a diagram, or take a ready-made one from the Internet.
Do-it-yourself production of rabbit hutches is a profitable alternative to the expensive services of craftsmen, since the basis of the design can be improvised materials.
The first thing you should pay attention to when making nurseries is the design. The parameters and quality of the final construction will depend on the chosen design.
There are several types of rabbit hutches:
- single-tier;
- two-tier;
- three-tier;
- multi-tiered;
- monolithic;
- portable;
- shads;
- nurseries in Zolotukhin, Tsvetkov, Rabbitax.
Nurseries differ in materials (wood, plywood, metal profiles) and the breed of pets. In the latter case, rabbitries are allocated for female rabbits and rabbits, for decorative breeds, dwarfs, etc.
Nurseries are designed for warm and cold seasons; for this purpose, special seals are installed in them, and the buildings are closed from precipitation.
How to make cages for rabbits with your own hands?
For rabbit breeding, it is enough to have a durable cage with insulation at home.
When building nurseries, the following rules and recommendations must be taken into account:
- Place animals of the same species, gender, weight and characteristic habits in one cage.
- Place individuals with offspring in buildings with two compartments and tiers.
- Standard parameters for nurseries: length about 80-120 cm, height about 50 cm, width about 70-80 cm.
- It is better to keep young animals together with everyone else in a group compartment.
- The number of rabbits in one cage is calculated based on its size.
Location
It is worth deciding on the location of the rabbitry before moving on to the construction stage, since it is then difficult to move it. The place should be protected from drafts, wind, and sun.
It is especially important to choose the right place for construction if it will be located outdoors.
Important! If the nursery is located outside 24 hours a day, it is important to take care of roofing materials. It is best to exclude the use of metal for the roof; it is worth taking denser and heat-resistant materials. Wood or slate will do.
In this case, it is better to make a wooden floor with a retractable tray, which is covered with grating on top. The front and rear walls of the rabbitry are insulated with foam plastic, and a heated floor is installed for the winter.
What materials are most often used to make cells?
Rabbit farms are divided into types according to the material used for production.
At independent production at home they use improvised materials:
- wood;
- slate;
- corrugated sheeting;
- brick;
- metal profile.
Additionally, insulation, plaster, and sanding will be required. Often a rabbitry consists of a wooden frame and a solid wire mesh, which serves as a door and is equipped with latches and curtains.
Stages of creating a cage for rabbits
The construction of a two-section rabbitry takes place in the following stages:
- Frame assembly.
- Wall upholstery with plywood sheets.
- Laying the floor.
- Mounting walls between zones.
- Installation of doors, queen cell.
- Installation of a nursery.
Final stage – installation of feeders and drinkers, covering the floor with branches for the convenience of pets.
Cage frame
For home-made frames, a solid wooden beam is often used, which is sheathed on top with wood, oriented strand board or slate.
The frame is assembled according to a pre-prepared scheme; it is recommended to pre-treat the timber with an antiseptic. To secure the beams, self-tapping screws of different sizes are used (from 25 to 75 mm).
Note! Since rabbits are rodents, they like to chew on wood and can wear down the interior, so it is recommended to line the cage with metal or slate.
After assembly, the top frame can be painted with a special primer paint. If the cage is located outside all year round, it is recommended to install it on wooden beams-legs. The optimal length of the frame legs varies from 80 to 100 cm. For a nursery located indoors, legs 30-40 cm long will be sufficient.
Roof installation
Depending on the chosen design, various materials are used for the manufacture and installation of the roof. roofing materials. Often, the roof for rabbit hutches is made from layers of slate.
Installation of slate sheets involves creating a certain angle of inclination. Since the frame is usually made of wooden beams, it is important to mount the roof in such a way that its edges do not extend beyond the frame by more than 5 cm. This way, the frame of the cage structure will be reliably protected from precipitation and rotting.
Slate leaves are attached to each other using nails with wide heads or self-tapping screws. Some designs of internal cages provide for the installation of a roof in the form of a simple galvanized mesh.
Queen cell arrangement
It is a special structure for the female rabbit, necessary to ensure maximum offspring. This is a special design that separates the common nest from the environment where the rabbits will be.
For use plywood sheets, boards, slats, hinges and insulating material, which most often is ordinary sawdust.
The process of installing a queen cell does not require much effort and skill. The frame itself is made according to ready-made diagram, use slats for edging, knock together a blank, insulate it and stuff a layer of plywood on top. It is important to ensure that there are no gaps during manufacturing. Finished walls the frame is fastened with self-tapping screws.
Feeder device
Feeders for long-eared pets can be purchased at finished form or manufacture with my own hands. Drawings can be found on the Internet or prepared yourself.
Highlight different kinds feeders depending on materials, shapes and designs:
- ceramic bowls;
- nursery feeders;
- gutters;
- bunkers;
- cup-shaped feeders.
To make a feeder with your own hands, you use tin, wood, metal profiles, plastic, slate and plexiglass. The choice of material depends on the type of cell and its location (inside or outside).
You can also make a feeder from scrap materials (for example, from tin can). The feeder is installed inside the nest. When making your own, it is important to ensure that the feeder does not have sharp corners, edges or jagged edges.
Types of cages for rabbits, drawings, dimensions, description
There are different types of cages based on parameters such as the breed of rabbits, living conditions, and size. Based on general parameters, external and stationary types of cells are distinguished.
The most extensive classification is the division of cells according to the breeds of inhabitants:
- General/group– represent a large nest designed for different numbers of rabbits (from 10 or more), the size varies from 60 to 120 cm. The design includes several sections for pets of the same weight, age, and temperament.
- Individual– a house for one adult pet is suitable for demanding and pugnacious males who need personal space.
- Queen cells– houses for female rabbits with their babies. Usually they are installed inside a group nest in the form of a box, they are closed space with one opening.
- Sheds– a compact design with two tiers and sides, the cages are adjacent to each other with their back walls, this design comes in different sizes, it is used for young and adult pets.
- Individual designs by Mikhailov, Zolotukhin, Tsvetkov – The designs, developed on an individual basis according to the personal drawings of the creators, are distinguished by ergonomics, simplicity and compactness.
Cells from Zolotukhin: features and advantages
The famous rabbit breeder Nikolai Zolotukhin has developed his own cage design for long-eared pets, which is easy to manufacture and provides maximum protection for animals from external negative factors.
Typically, such a cage involves the construction of two floors and accommodates 3-6 adult pets.
The distinctive advantage of the rabbitry is its security, the inclination of the feeder, and the practicality of cleaning.
Its standard sizes:
- width – 2 m;
- height – 1.5-2 m;
- depth – 60-80 cm;
- back mesh – 15-20 cm;
- door – 40x40 cm.
The cage design according to Tsvetkov involves a two-tier mini-farm with 4 cells. Such a cage is equipped with hanging feeders and drinkers, in which the water is automatically heated, and mounted queen cells.
Among the design features of A. A. Tsvetkov are:
- two-tier device, 2 compartments per tier;
- the cage is designed for outdoor living;
- the presence of bunker feeders and automatic drinkers;
- availability of ventilation and purification systems.
Sawdust, polystyrene foam, peat or tree bark are used as cell insulation. Roofing material or slate is used for roofing. The frame of this design is made of solid wooden beams, painted with white paint, insulated and protected with sheets of plywood.
- the simplest and affordable option made from metal mesh. Such a cage differs significantly from a wooden one in terms of practicality and cost-effectiveness.
It does not require regular maintenance and repair, is highly durable, and prevents damage to the material by pets. To manufacture the structure, solid metal wire with a diameter of 1.5-1.8 mm and a cell size of 12x50 mm is used.
Important! In a metal cage, the common nest must be separated from the feeder section by a partition covered thin layer metal
This design is arranged rectangular or square and eliminates the possibility of sagging of the material.
A cage made of metal mesh is suitable exclusively for indoor use, because in the winter the metal cools down and in the summer it heats up, which negatively affects the condition of the pets.
A small cage excludes the establishment of a queen cell, which makes it suitable only for breeding males. The compact design is spacious and consists of 2 tiers that can accommodate up to 8 adult residents.
The compact cage does not take up much space, but is open, so it is only suitable for arranging in summer period or indoors.
In compact type cages, it is impossible to put hay without lifting it onto a ladder. This cage requires frequent cleaning due to its open design and rapid accumulation of waste in the lower tiers.
The simplest design
To make the simplest design you will not need additional materials and special tools. It consists of 2-3 tiers and can accommodate up to 8-9 pets.
However, this design has more disadvantages than advantages. It does not have the ability to install a nipple drinker, there is no section for hay, it requires regular cleaning and the installation of an internal feeder.
Do-it-yourself two- or three-tier cage for rabbits: step-by-step instructions with photo examples
A two-tier cage is the most common and simplest design.
A two- or three-tier cage is installed as follows:
- Make a frame structure from bars 70 cm high and 120-150 cm long.
- Insulate the finished frame with plywood sheets.
- Referring to the drawing of the cage, leave space inside for arranging a common nest and.
- Install the nest and queen cell.
- Install partitions between the nest and feeding area.
- Install a slate roof and install hinges for easy access.
- Mount wooden door in the nesting compartment.
- Install a metal mesh door in the aft compartment.
- Lay the floor from wooden slats and cover it with a fine metal mesh on top.
- Place the bottom tray under the cage.
- Place insulating materials (hay, sawdust, polystyrene foam).
- Install a feeder and drinkers.
Features and advantages of the design
Two- and three-tier cage designs are considered the most convenient and profitable for breeding pets. The cage is designed with maximum comfort for the animals; inside there are feeders for feed, hay and fruits.
The design does not require regular cleaning and allows you to keep the compartments clean when keeping up to 25 adult pets. There is a separate compartment at the bottom for the mother and baby rabbits.
It is not difficult to make high-quality, reliable and comfortable cages for rabbits with your own hands at home. In the presence of necessary materials you can build a practical mini-farm that will serve as a home for your pets for many years.
In order for the cage to perform its functions and bring maximum benefit, it is recommended to choose the type and design of the rabbitry, taking into account the breed, age and weight of the individuals. Comfortable living conditions will help raise healthy, strong and active animals without diseases or behavioral defects.
Owners of fluffy, charming rabbits ask themselves, first of all, the question of what conditions their pets should live in.
How to choose a place to install the cage
Let us first dwell on the homestead keeping of eared animals. There are two options:
- open content (in the air);
- placing cages indoors (for example, in a barn).
To select the location for installing the cages, you must follow the rules.
- Air humidity should not exceed 60-75% (hence, the cages are installed in a dry, elevated place away from water bodies).
- Because the rabbits categorically do not accept direct Sun rays , then the cells should ideally be located among trees that provide shade, or protected by an artificial fence that diffuses direct sunlight.
- Drafts are common cause rabbit diseases. Therefore, air movement exceeding a speed of 30 m/s is undesirable. However, cell ventilation is one of the rules that must be strictly observed. Otherwise, the evaporation of the secretions will harm the health of your pets.
On winter time places where rabbits are kept should be insulated so that the temperature fluctuates in the range of 10-20 C. Particular attention is paid to the insulation of queen cells and compartments for rabbits.
If animals are kept in indoors, then it should be:
- must be plastered
- well ventilated
- illuminated in winter for no more than 10 hours.
IN ideal The room for keeping cages with animals should have a window on the south side that fills the entire wall.
It is also advisable to place cells in open space in accordance with the cardinal points - with the front side facing east.
And one more nuance - the cages need to be installed at a height of 0.8-1.0 m from the ground. This will protect the rabbits from being bitten by domestic rodents and will make it much easier for the breeder to maintain the cage.
The classic version of a cage for keeping rabbits is a design of the following dimensions:
- 50*70*30 cm – for young animals;
- 50*100*30 cm – for female rabbits.
The entire space of the cage is divided into a walking room and a remote nook, where rabbits of any age find refuge in moments of “danger” and bad weather. The length of the walking compartment can vary, but is usually up to 50 cm in length and width. The cubby favorite of rabbits is a box 25 cm long and 50 cm wide. It is sheathed tightly, and only on the front side is a removable door attached. The hole is located in the wall adjacent to the walking area and is usually 17*17 cm.
The specificity of the structure of a rabbit cage is that a mesh or slatted floor is usually installed to allow free passage of waste into a tray located under the floor.
The height of the front side of the cage is usually 55 cm, and the back wall is 30 cm. That is, the cage assumes a sloping roof, which, in the case of a “tiered” arrangement of cages, will also be a tray for the higher cages, and therefore is usually lined with galvanized iron.
Materials for making cells
When choosing materials for making cells, it is better to give preference to high-quality and ecological tree. Wooden beams are suitable for constructing the frame. Boards or plywood work well for cladding walls. Chipboard is unacceptable because it takes on water, swells and crumbles.
To construct the floor, use a welded mesh with cells 1.7 * 1.7 cm, or wooden slats up to 3 cm wide. The slats are placed at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other, for free passage of waste into the pallet. If the distance between the slats is greater than specified, or the mesh cells are larger, then this is fraught with fractures of the paws when getting stuck in large openings. Floor slats can be plastic.
One condition must be strictly observed - the material for making cells must be smooth, without traumatic foreign inclusions.
Dimensions and drawings of a cage for rabbits
The size of rabbit cages is directly dependent on:
- rabbit breeds;
- selected housing scheme (mini-farms, “battery” type cages, according to Zolotukhin
- etc.);
- standard indicators required areas(for example, for rabbits - 0.5-0.7 sq.m.,
- males will need 0.17 sq.m., and young animals - 0.12 sq.m.).
In practice, houses of two connected cells measuring 100*55cm are often used. In these cages, the uterine compartments are adjacent to the outer walls of the cage and communicate with the feeding compartments through 17*17 cm manholes. On the front side of the house there are doors: two solid ones in the nesting compartments, and two mesh ones in the walking spaces. Between them there are nurseries and drinking bowls. Feeders are usually attached to the face of screen doors.
All wire cage
This type of cage is intended for placement in livestock-type premises and even in ordinary hay barns. The walls and ceiling of the cages are lined with a mesh with cells of 2.5-5 cm, the floor - 1.7 * 1.7 cm.
The main advantage of these cells is the simplicity and accessibility of cleaning and disinfection. All you need is a good brush and a propane torch, which will help you easily get rid of unnecessary microorganisms and accumulations of rabbit fluff.
All-wire cages occupy significantly less space, which is also their advantage when running a farm.
Difficulties in cell construction
The main problem when making a cage with your own hands is the lack of high-quality and detailed drawings, or the unjustified high cost of licensed options (for example, drawings from Rabbitax).
The second difficulty faced House master– this is the non-standard size of the building materials used. And as a result, the need to purchase materials to order. If we add to this the lack of experience in the manufacture of cells, then the cost of materials turns out to be prohibitively high.
Novice craftsmen make similar mistakes when building cells:
- saving material leads to crowding, which has a bad effect on the health and reproduction of rabbits;
- the uterine or nesting compartment must be stationary (the cuffs frighten the rabbit and can cause crushing of the rabbits).
To reduce stress when laying young animals, you can use a cage with a stationary cubbyhole for baby rabbits, in which a hole measuring 12*12 cm will not allow the mother rabbit to constantly be with the babies. And the moment of separation of the rabbits will no longer be so stressful.
N.I. cells are very popular. Zolotukhina. Their main the difference is the absence of pallets, i.e. solid floor made of flat slate , and the presence of a mesh only on the back side of the cells to a width of 15-20 cm. The staggered arrangement of one cell above another helps to get rid of waste from “ upper floors" to "lower". A characteristic feature is also the absence of nesting compartments. The female rabbit is given the opportunity to build her own queen cell from hay. The door feeders are mounted on rotating nails and, thanks to their hinged design, are easy to clean.
On our website there is an article dedicated to it in which you will find everything practical advice and recommendations from the author, in addition you can familiarize yourself with the drawings and dimensions of the cells.
Cells from Tsvetkov
This is a kind of four-apartment house, with an equipped ventilation and “sewage” system. There are also mounted queen cells and gravity feeders and drinkers. The hay manger is covered with galvanized mesh and secured to the frame with nails. All vulnerable parts are reinforced with tin plates. In winter, the compartments for young rabbits and queen cells are heated with ordinary medical-grade heating pads. Unusual is the face of the cage facing south.
Rabbitax for beginner rabbit breeders
Cells from the Rabbitax company are distinguished by their unique decor and environmental friendliness ( a system of air flow redirection characteristic only of them). They are mainly intended for large farms. But there are acceptable options, for example, a cage with two compartments. For a novice master, the drawings are still a bit complicated. And the main disadvantage is the high cost of production.
Author's designs
I would like to mention Mikhailov’s rabbit cages. The main advantage of mini-farms is their compactness (the ability to contain 25 individuals on an area of 25 sq.m., taking into account the distance between houses of 70 cm). An undoubted advantage is also the automation of waste collection into a sealed container. A significant disadvantage of Mikhailov cells is the expensive materials for construction and the undoubted professionalism of the performer.
The design of E. Ovdienko attracts attention. Its characteristic feature is a special gate that protects the four-tiered structure, accommodating 24 cells, from the wind and vagaries of the weather.
DIY cage for decorative rabbits
Decorative eared creatures can also live well in a homemade cage. For simple solution you need to decide on the question of how often your pet is supposed to walk in open space. If the rabbit walks for at least 3 hours a day, then a cage size of 70*40 cm is sufficient. If your pet spends most of the time at home, then the cage size should be 100*50 cm. Otherwise, you should adhere to the same construction rules cages, as for farm rabbits.
Of all the above cages for rabbits, a novice master will be able to choose the best option for himself, combining ease of execution, ease of maintenance and an acceptable cost.
If you decide to get a decorative rabbit, we recommend that you read the same, no less important is and .
Watch also the video - how to make a cage with your own hands.
If you decide to have rabbits, this is a profitable activity: they are unpretentious, do not need special food, and reproduce and grow very quickly. But you will definitely need rabbit cages. I will tell you in what conditions these furry rodents should be kept, and what kind of houses should be for them.
Condition 1. Rules for keeping rabbits
There are two options for cell locations:
- indoors, for example, in an extension to a house or a separate barn;
- on open air.
If the cages will be placed outdoors, adhere to these rules:
- Homemade Rabbits do not like direct sunlight. Therefore, their houses should be located in the shade of trees or protected by an artificial fence that will diffuse the rays of the sun.
- Ambient air humidity should be no more than 60-70%. Place the cages in an elevated and dry area, away from bodies of water.
- Drafts often cause rabbit diseases. Animals should not be exposed to air currents exceeding 30 m/sec.
- Cages must be well ventilated. The fumes from the rabbits' secretions should not harm their health.
- It is highly advisable to install rabbit houses facing east.
On winter season the cages should be insulated, the temperature inside should vary from +10 to +20 °C. Particularly carefully insulate the nesting compartment for queens and their offspring.
- in winter, the room should be illuminated for no more than 10 hours;
- the walls must be plastered;
- be sufficiently ventilated;
- The best option is if the south side of the room is equipped with a window covering the entire wall.
- cages can be made at a height of 80-100 cm from the floor, so the rabbits will be protected from bites of rats and mice, and it will be easier for you to care for your pets.
Condition 2. Cage design and dimensions
The cages must be of a certain size and design.
Dimensions of the rabbitry
The size of the cells depends:
- from the breed of rabbits;
- schemes for their maintenance (“battery” cages, mini-farm, industrial farming, etc.);
- standard values: young animals need 0.12 m² of area, males - 0.17 m², and females - 0.5 m².
Common cage sizes for rabbits:
- for rabbits - 50×70×30 cm;
- for adults - 50×100×30 cm.
Most often, houses are made into two cells. In such paired rabbitries, the nesting compartments are adjacent to the outer walls of the cages. They communicate with the feeding areas through passages (manholes) measuring 17x17 cm.
Features of a rabbit house
There are doors on the front side of the rabbitry: two mesh doors in the walkways and two solid ones in the nesting areas. Between them there are drinking bowls and nurseries. Feeders are attached to the front of the screen doors.
The entire area of the cage for keeping rabbits is divided into a walking section and a nesting area (dead nook). The size of the walking area can vary, but most often it is 50 cm in width and length.
The little cubby beloved by the animals is a box 25 cm wide and 50 cm long. Rabbits sleep in it, and also hide in bad weather or when they feel danger.
The nook is tightly sheathed and only a removable door is hung on its front side. The hole is made in the wall adjacent to the walking area.
Rabbit cages made with slatted or mesh floors. This is necessary so that their waste can freely fall into the tray located under the floor.
The height of the front side of the house should be 50-55 cm, and the back wall should be given a height of 30 cm. In other words, the roof of the cage should have a slope. With a tiered arrangement of rabbit hutches, it will simultaneously play the role of a tray for the upper cages. Therefore, the roof must be sheathed with galvanized sheet iron.
What materials should I use?
The best option for cell construction- use environmentally friendly wood and its processed products.
- A wooden beam is well suited for constructing a frame.
- You can cover the walls with plywood or boards. Chipboard is not suitable for this; this board absorbs moisture, swells from it and begins to crumble.
- To arrange the floors, use a welded mesh with a cell size of 1.5x1.5 cm.
- For flooring, you can also use wooden or plastic slats 2-3 cm wide. Stuff them in increments of 1.5 cm between each other. This way, the rabbits' waste will fall freely into the pan.
- The step should not be more than the given figure. Otherwise, the animals’ paws will get stuck in the cracks, and they may break them.
When making a house for a rabbit with your own hands, remember one important condition. The materials for its construction must be smooth, without burrs, splinters and other inclusions that cause injury.
Stages of making a cage
I will describe to you how the most simple cell for indoor keeping of rabbits. According to this scheme, you can build a house for open air, but then you will have to use OSB.
The design of the cage must be shown in the drawing. Draw it, focusing on the dimensions of a single rabbitry: length 150 cm, width 70 cm and height 70 cm.
But it’s better if the rabbit cage is a double cage, so you’ll save building materials. Then the framework should look like this:
- length - 300 cm;
- width - 70 cm;
- the height in front is 120 cm, and behind - 100 cm.
Tools and materials
Before making a rabbit cage, prepare the materials:
- two sheets of plywood, 150x150 cm in size and 1 cm thick;
- 10 wooden blocks, 3 m long and 3x5 cm in size;
- 3 m² galvanized iron mesh, with cells 1.5x1.5 cm;
- 1 kg of self-tapping screws, 3 and 7 cm long.
And, of course, you will also need the appropriate tools.
Assembling a rabbit house
| Image | Instructions |
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Step 1. Construction of the frame
Assemble the frame on a hard, level surface. Dimensions of the base of the house: length 3 m, width 0.7 m, front height 1.2 m, rear 1 m. The frame must have legs. Screw the mesh onto the floors of the structure with your own hands. You can fasten it without reaching the edges of the structure, the queen cells will be located there. Their floor must be solid. |
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Step 2. Work on the queen cells.
First, make the back wall from plywood: cut it to the size of the frame and screw it to the beam with screws. |
How to build a rabbit cage yourself? This question usually arises among beginners who decide to start rabbit farming. Experienced farmers usually develop designs that are convenient for themselves, making it easier to care for animals.
Cells can have different structures and be made from a variety of materials. They are made completely simple or additionally equipped with “conveniences”, such as running water or heating. In the construction of the cage, much will depend on the planned number of rabbits, their breed and size, on the availability of retreat materials and on the place where it will be installed, on the desire and ability to equip it with various devices, as well as on the ability to work with carpentry and plumbing tools.
Cell placement
- 1 Placement of cells
- 1.1 Street cages
- 1.2 Cages placed indoors
- 1.3 Combined option rabbit breeding
- 2 Cell design and size
- 2.1 Single-tier and multi-tier structures
- 2.2 Cages for breeding
- 2.3 Cages for young animals
- 2.4 Cage for adult rabbits
- 2.5 Cage with aviary for walking
- 2.6 Cages for giant rabbits
- 2.7 Cage for Californian rabbits
- 3 Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages
- 3.1 Drinkers
- 3.1.1 Automatic drinkers
- 3.1.2 Nipple drinkers
- 3.1.3 Vacuum drinker
- 3.1.4 Throttle drinker
- 3.1.5 Hanging drinker
- 3.2 Feeders
- 3.1 Drinkers
- 4 Independent production of a multi-tiered cage
- 5 Videos: interesting option rabbit cages
Rabbit cages can be located in utility rooms, such as a barn, or directly on the street. Therefore, they can be divided into three types according to their location and the method of breeding rabbits:
- Year-round outdoor placement of cages, when animals are constantly outdoors.
- Keeping pets indoors all year round.
- Combined breeding option, that is, in winter the rabbits are kept indoors, and with the onset warm weather are transferred to the street.
Experienced rabbit breeders believe that the most optimal way to breed these animals is to keep them outdoors all year round, as this promotes the development of immunity to various diseases and the formation of healthy, high-quality hair. In addition, when raising rabbits outdoors, the productivity of females significantly improves, which increases the number of rabbits in the litter and their endurance.
Street cages
Rabbit cages are most often installed outdoors if you plan to breed a large number of animals - a hundred or more animals.
The convenience of setting up rabbit hutches in outdoor conditions lies in the availability of more space and the ease of caring for your “menagerie”, since each of the cages needs periodic cleaning.
For construction street cells sufficiently durable materials are used, since the design must be reliable and stable - these qualities will help protect rabbits from adverse natural factors, as well as from penetration of predatory animals - dogs, foxes, cats or rats - into the cages.
It is advisable that the building be located under a canopy with a large front canopy so that any precipitation, as well as direct sunlight, do not bother the pets too much.
If the rabbits will be outside all year round, then it is necessary to take care of insulating one of the parts of the cage. These animals tolerate low winter temperatures well, but it would still be a good idea to create comfortable conditions for them and a special place where they can bask on especially cold days and nights.
Cages placed indoors
Cages placed in windproof areas can be made entirely of metal mesh attached to a wooden frame and have a wooden slatted floor. If breeding pets is carried out indoors, it is important to think carefully about the convenient disposal of their waste.
Combined rabbit breeding option
In another case, if funds and space allow, cages are built in two places - both on the street and in a barn. This method of farming is unlikely to be suitable for those farmers who breed a large number of pets, since installing winter and summer cages will require quite big square.
Cell design and size
Rabbit cages can be single-tiered or multi-tiered. In addition, their design may vary depending on the main purpose - for breeding, for raising young animals or for keeping adult pets.
Single-tier and multi-tier structures
Cells can be single-tiered or multi-tiered, but they are arranged in no more than three tiers.
- Single-tier cells
Single-tier buildings are raised above the ground by 700–800 mm and covered with a roof made of slate or metal sheet. If this option of buildings will be located on the street, then it is better to choose slate roof, since the metal heats up quickly, and rabbits do not tolerate extreme heat very well.
To collect and dispose of animal waste, a metal tray made in the form of a drain is often installed in a single-tier cage for the convenience of its regular cleaning.
- Multi-tiered cells
More often, multi-tiered cages are practiced, which can have two or three tiers, and on each of which a different number of sections are placed. Such structures are most often made of bars, boards and galvanized mesh, and are used for breeding rabbits both outdoors and indoors.
Such cage designs are called sheds - in them, tiers with sections are located one above the other, which helps to significantly save space.
A two-tier design is considered the best option, as it will allow for comfortable care and monitoring of pets.
It is recommended to raise the shad above the ground by 500–600 mm when installed indoors, and by 700–750 mm when installed outdoors. This cage is considered the best for keeping rabbits, so it is used most often.
When building multi-tiered cages, there must be a space of at least 150 mm high between each of the tiers. An inclined one is installed above the cells metal roof. In the space between the tiers and under the lower tier, inclined tides are fixed. They are necessary so that rabbit waste does not fall into the lower cages and does not linger on the lower roof, but flows to the ground or into a common or separate drain for each tier located at the back of the structure. At each of these ebbs, sides are bent on the sides to prevent waste from falling beyond this plane.
Some owners prefer to use removable plastic trays, which are mounted on skids under the slatted floor and can be removed for cleaning and rinsing.
Another option is for the trays to be installed directly in the cages. In addition, sometimes cages are made with a solid floor. Both of the latter options are probably still not very convenient, since the bedding in the cages will have to be changed quite often - once every two to three days.
Cages for breeding
In cages intended for breeding, special chambers are installed on the sides, or space is provided for installing a mobile queen cell. In a design with a stationary compartment, the walls, removable floor and ceiling are made solid, since it must be well insulated and not blown through by drafts, otherwise the rabbits will die.
The floor in the rest of the cage, where the food section is located, is made of wooden blocks or metal mesh.
The mobile queen cell is a completely closed box with round hole to enter. The box should also have an additional side door to allow it to be cleaned and dried.
A mobile queen cell is convenient because it can be rearranged, if necessary, into different cells, and it is also easier to clean and change bedding.
This chamber is insulated with dry, mold-free hay or shavings. It is not recommended to use small sawdust, as they can get into the respiratory tract of the rabbits, and they will die.
If breeding is carried out in winter, then a few days before it, it is recommended to place an electric heating pad in the queen cell to create comfortable conditions for the female rabbit.
During the cold season, it is often impossible to do without heating the uterine tract, so instead of a heating pad, you can also use a regular light bulb, which is kept constantly on during this period. It is placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber. Having chosen this heating option, you need to take care of fire safety, therefore, the chamber where the lamp will be located must be sheathed with a thin metal sheet.
Another way to heat this part of the cage is a heating cable for the “warm floor” system, which is fixed to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it. When using this option, it is imperative to ensure that the cable located in the cage is solid, without splicing. This system, installed in accordance with all the rules, allows you to regulate the temperature in the uterine compartment depending on the temperature outside - it can be connected to a thermostatic regulator.
For cages located indoors in barns, it is best to make queen cells mobile so that they can be taken outside for thorough cleaning, ventilation and drying in the sun. If a built-in uterine chamber is planned, then the floor must be removable.
Each section of cells of this type usually has a length of 1000×1200 mm, a depth of 550×650 mm, a height along the front side of 550×600 mm and 400×450 mm along the rear wall. The built-in uterine chamber is made 350×400 mm wide.
Cages for young animals
Cages for young animals should be designed to accommodate 8–20 rabbits at a time, aged from three to five months. A group cage is made with an area of approximately 0.25 - 0.3 m? per pet, with a wall height of at least 350 mm.
If the cages are made multi-tiered and installed on the street, then they must be raised above the ground by at least 700–750 mm.
In cages for young animals, the warm nesting compartment should also be well insulated for the winter, in approximately the same way as for newborn rabbits. For insulation, hay or straw is used, laid 15–20 mm thick. You should not choose artificial materials for insulation, as they have a bad effect on the development and growth of babies of all breeds of rabbits.
Cage for adult rabbits
For adult rabbits of medium-sized breeds, cages are made with sections 600–700 mm deep, a facade height of 600 mm and a length of 1000 mm - this minimum dimensions for comfortable development adult animal. The same block design is used for these cells; each block contains two cells separated by a wall.
It is also necessary to provide for the union of these cells into one, for example, for the mating period - for this, the partition between them is made removable. It is recommended to make the floor in cages for adults from galvanized mesh.
It is very important to take into account that pets must move freely inside the cages, since their growth and development will depend on this.
Cage with aviary for walking
This cage design is well suited for keeping young animals or for rabbits of reproductive age. The cage consists of two compartments - this is an area completely enclosed by walls and a roof and mesh aviary. The two compartments are connected by a round or rectangular entrance cut into the rear wall of the cage with solid surfaces. Rabbits in such cages have the opportunity to move freely and safely, which is beneficial for their development and growth.
The dimensions of such structures may vary, but usually the depth of a closed cage is 600×650 mm, and the depth of the enclosure is 800×1000 mm. Most often, a regular single-tier block is built, consisting of two separate cages, and then, if there is space behind it, a mesh enclosure is attached to it.
Cages for giant rabbits
Large rabbits of the “giant” meat-skin breed require a special approach, since not standard cages are built for them, but those with more significant parameters. Individuals of this breed grow to sizes from 550 to 650 mm in length, and their weight ranges from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. These numbers must be used as a starting point when drawing up a construction design drawing.
For one adult “giant” rabbit, you will need a cage measuring at least 960 mm in length, 700 mm in depth and 600×700 mm in height.
For young animals of this breed, in one litter of which there are on average eight rabbits, you will need a cage of 1.2 m², at least 400 mm high.
Since “giant” rabbits have quite a lot of weight, the floor of the cage should be reinforced - it is also covered with galvanized mesh, but made of thicker wire, for example, 2×2.2 mm. In addition, to prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animal, when making the floor it is necessary to first secure bars measuring 30×30 mm, laid at a distance of 35×40 mm from each other, and then lay and secure a metal mesh on top of them.
Some farmers put a solid floor in their cages, but in this case, the best option would be to install plastic or rubber trays in them. If you choose this option for arranging the cage, then you will have to clean it of waste daily or once every two days.
California rabbit cage
This breed of rabbits (a hybrid of the New Zealand breed, the Soviet chinchilla and the Russian ermine) is quite popular due to its ease of care and resistance to negative winter temperatures. In size, adult individuals of the Californian breed are smaller than “giants” and their length is 450×500 mm, but their weight sometimes reaches up to 4.5×5 kg. The cage for these rabbits should be approximately 0.4 x 0.5 m in size. The paws of pets of this breed are covered with coarse hair, so they will be quite comfortable in cages with mesh or slatted floors.
When California rabbits are raised exclusively for meat, they are often kept in a pit measuring 2000 x 2000 and 1000 mm deep. The walls of the pit are reinforced with slate, a plank or mesh floor is laid on the floors, a low fence is installed around the pit and a roof is built.
An earthen niche is made in one of the walls of the pit, which is not reinforced in any way. It is necessary to create conditions close to the natural habitat of these animals. Rabbits will happily dig holes in the ground, and with proper care they will reproduce well and raise young on their own.
Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages
To make caring for your pets easier, it is worth considering a convenient supply of food and water for them. There are many different designs, both feeders and drinkers. They can be purchased ready-made or even made yourself.
Drinking bowls
Rabbits need a lot of clean water and if you pour it into a bowl that is not fixed at a certain height, then various debris will fall into it, or, even worse, a rabbit, stepping on it with its paw, will simply knock it over and spill water.
It is very important to decide on the choice of material from which the drinkers will be made. For example, if you install products made of thin plastic, they will not last for a long time, as rabbits will chew them. In metal cans, water will quickly become dirty and cloudy. Therefore, experienced rabbit breeders have developed several simple designs that allow them to constantly provide the animals with the necessary amount of water.
Automatic drinkers
This type of drinker is often used both on large farms and in small households. The design of this drinking bowl consists of a bowl connected to a container filled with water. Moreover, the bowl is in the cage, and the container is located outside, so it is easy to replenish it with new supplies of fresh water.
The principle of operation of such devices is quite simple - as the water decreases from the bowl, a new portion of liquid will flow into it from the container. In this case, the float system is triggered - there is little water left in the bowl, so the valve installed in the container opens and the drinking bowl is replenished with water. It is quite difficult to make such a drinking bowl yourself, but it can be purchased ready-made.
Nipple drinkers
The nipple type of drinker is convenient and practical, since in this case the animals cannot spill the water - it remains in the tube until the rabbit begins to drink, performing sucking movements.
The disadvantage of this water delivery system is that when low temperatures The water in the container and in the tubes freezes quickly, so this drinking bowl can only be used in the warm season.
Vacuum drinker
There are several ways to make a drinking bowl from an ordinary one plastic bottle, and they should be considered so that the manufacturing process can be carried out independently.
The operating principle of this design is based on the laws of physics, and to make it, you need to proceed as follows:
- A bowl having flat bottom, sides approximately 50 mm high and an elongated shape are fixed to the cage at a height of 100 mm from the floor, so that half of it is inside the cage and the other remains outside.
- A regular plastic bottle of two or one and a half liters is filled with water. The bottle is then closed with a cap or even a piece of paper, which is pressed firmly to the neck. Next, the container is quickly turned upside down and placed in a bowl. The neck should not reach the bottom 2-3 mm. The bottle is then secured to the cage using wire or clamps.
- The lid is carefully unscrewed (if paper was used, it is simply pulled out), and the bowl is filled with water by about ?. As your pets drink water, water will flow from the bottle into the bowl, filling it to its previous level.
This drinker works on the principle of a conventional hand washbasin, that is, when you press the throttle installed together with the valve in the bottle cap, water begins to flow down the throttle through the resulting hole.
The hole in the cover should not be large, but the throttle should move up and down easily in it. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve, which holds the throttle well and covers the hole in the bottle cap in a calm state.
The bottle with this device is fixed vertically on the cage, at a height of 250×300 mm from the floor.
Hanging drinker
This is a very simple version of a drinking bowl, made from a plastic bottle; it is suspended on wire holders at a height of 250–300 mm from the floor. To make such a drinker, a cutout is made in the side of the bottle, 100×120 mm wide and almost the entire length of the bottle, 50×60 mm away from the lid and bottom.
The drinking bowl is secured with outside cells so that the hole cut in the bottle is turned inward. In the cage at this level, part of the mesh wall is also cut out so that the rabbits can easily reach the water. Such a drinking bowl will have to be replenished with water quite often, but it is extremely simple to manufacture.
Feeders
It is advisable to plan the feeders at the stage of drawing up the drawing of the entire structure. Feed supply devices can be of three types:
- Senniki are most often located between two adjacent cells and have a V-shape. They are made together with the structure of the cell itself - they, in fact, are its integral part. Fresh grass or dry hay is placed in these feeders, and the rabbits pull it out through the lattice walls.
- Feeder for filling feed. This product is necessary for rabbits to enrich their body with minerals and vitamins, which helps rapid growth animals. This food is especially important in winter, when there is no grass, fresh vegetables and fruits.
Feeders for mixed feed can be made of metal sheet, plastic pipe, used for laying sewers or from other materials. An important condition, which must be fulfilled for efficient work This device is responsible for the correct and reliable fastening of the container to the cell wall. The principle of operation of such a device is that food independently enters a bowl located in the cage from a container fixed outside it, as it decreases.
- A device for vegetables, fruits, tops and other fresh shredded products can be made of any material. It is made spacious and easy to clean. The feeder must be kept clean, otherwise there may be infestations in and around it. harmful insects, which can cause various diseases in animals.
Making your own multi-tiered cage
Before purchasing materials, it is recommended to draw up an accurate drawing of a cage or multi-tiered complex. It is necessary to foresee the location of feeders and drinkers on the plan, especially in cases where they will be built into the overall structure.
IN in this case a step-by-step description of the manufacture of a three-tier cage 1400 mm wide, 1900 mm high and 600 mm deep is presented.
For work you will need the following materials:
The table below describes the cage installation process step by step:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | From the purchased boards it is necessary to make parts for mounting the frame: - 100×30×2250 mm – 4 pcs.; - 50?30?1340 mm – 12 pcs.; - 50?30?540 mm – 12 pcs.; - 25?30?540 mm – 72 pcs. |
 | Six identical frame frames measuring 1340×600 mm are assembled from prepared lumber. |
 | Making frames is easy. First, one is assembled with precise dimensions and squareness, and then it is used as a template for making the rest. To assemble each frame, you will need two beams measuring 50x30x540 mm and two beams measuring 50x30x1340 mm. Smaller bars are secured between two long ones using two self-tapping screws at each connection |
 | The result of installation should be six neat, even frames of the same size. |
 | The next step is to position the frames and fasten them onto boards measuring 100 x 30 x 2250 mm, laid at a distance the width of the frame. The distance between the frames forming the frame and the floor of the cage of each tier should be 400 mm. The space left between tiers is 180 mm. The first tier should be raised 400 mm above the ground. The frames are secured with two self-tapping screws, screwed in along the diagonal intersection line at the joints of the frame frame and side boards. |
 | The next step is to fasten the frames along the top edge with two boards laid parallel to the bottom ones. It is important here to ensure that the frames are perfectly vertical. To check their verticality, a building level is used. |
 | Next, the blocks for installation of the grated floor are prepared. Their size should be 25?30?540 mm. |
 | The distance between the sheathing bars should be 15×20 mm (lightwise). They are installed inside the frame frame, and through it, on the side, secured with self-tapping screws on both sides. |
 | The floor of the cells on all three tiers is lined in exactly the same way. If it is planned to make a queen cell on one of the tiers, where breeding occurs, and where the rabbits will be kept until a certain age, then in this place the floor of the cage should be solid and removable. The arrangement of the queen cell was described above. |
 | Will each of the tiers be divided into two separate cells? between which a hay box is mounted in the shape of the Latin letter V. Hay or grass for rabbits will be placed here. The sennik is formed from four bars, which are installed on both sides of the frame. The size of the hay is 150×200 mm in the upper part, and 6×8 mm in the lower part. Naturally, it is necessary to achieve a clear correspondence in the location of the inclined crossbars on both sides of the frame. |
 | To ensure that the doors have the correct rectangular shape, a hay barn can be made from boards by cutting one of their sides at a certain angle and connecting them at the bottom from the inside of the cage. Thus, the outer edge of the hay barn will be smooth and will act as a wall to which the door will adjoin. In addition, the front parts of the hay barn can be cut from plywood 15 mm thick. |
 | The frame of the hay barn is sheathed inside along installed bars (or cutouts made at an angle in boards or plywood) with a mesh of 0.7 mm wire with cells of 25×25 mm. |
 | If you plan to make a queen cell in the cage, then it is separated from the cage by a plywood or plank wall with a small entrance. To make it easier to attach this wall, additional bars are mounted into the structure, to which the plywood jumper will be attached. |
 | The entrance to the wall can be round or semicircular, but it must be located at a height of 100–120 mm from the floor of the cage - this distance must be maintained so that the rabbits cannot get into the large cage until they can overcome this height on their own. The width of the entrance to the queen cell should be approximately 150 mm. After the hole is cut, it must be cleaned sandpaper, since its edges must be absolutely smooth. |
 | The width of the queen cell is usually 300×350 mm. The jumper wall is fixed on the bars, then the same wall is mounted with outside cages, and then the roof panel is fixed. If the main space of the cage can be covered with a roof metal mesh, then in the queen cell, it should be continuous. Lastly, a bottom made of plywood is placed in the queen cell compartment. However, it should not be secured to the lower bars with self-tapping screws, since after the rabbits grow up and are moved to other, more spacious cages, the bottom part is removed from the uterine chamber, washed, dried and put in place for the next birth. |
 | The final stage in the installation of the queen cell is the installation of a hinged external door on it across the entire width of the chamber. At the bottom, the door is secured to the beam with two metal hinges. |
 | A latch lock or latch is installed in the middle of the upper part of the door panel. |
 | Next, the door frame for the cage is made from 30×30 mm bars. It is made according to the size of the opening formed in the cell wall. The door frame bars are fastened together at the corners with two self-tapping screws. |
 | The illustration shows the finished door frame before it is covered with metal mesh. |
 | The mesh is fixed to the frame using staples and a stapler - such fixation will be quite sufficient. |
 | A door with a mesh installed on the inside looks like this. |
 | Hinges on mesh doors can be mounted at the bottom (in which case the door will be hinged), or on one side of the opening (in which case it will be hinged). It all depends on ease of use in specific conditions. |
 | If the cages will be installed under a roof, for example, in a barn or other indoor utility room, then the walls and roof of the cages can also be lined with mesh. When installing the structure outdoors, the side and rear walls and roof must be covered with plywood or boards |
 | It is very important to make the correct tides under each tier of cages so that animal waste from the upper cages does not fall into the lower ones. Used to make castings a metal sheet, on which the edges are folded on the sides - these sides should have a height of 80×100 mm. The ebbs are attached to the front lower part of the frame under the cage, and its other edge is placed on the rear wall of the lower cage and extends beyond it by 300–350 mm. Thus, the ebb tides are tilted and they protrude back beyond the structure so that they do not interfere with the approach to the rabbitry from the front side. |
 | The result should be something like this cell. In terms of complexity, this design option can be called the simplest and most accessible even for beginners. |
If you understand the principles of constructing cages for rabbits, then when drawing up a drawing, if desired, you can make your own adjustments. But it is still necessary to always keep in mind that any adult rabbit requires at least 0.5 m? living space. Better yet, stick to the recommended section sizes, about 1000 mm in length, 600? 700 – in depth, and from 400 to 600 mm – in height.
And at the end of the article, there is a video in which the rabbit breeder shares the secrets of the design of improved cages:
