Scheme drawing for making a solid fuel boiler with your own hands. Solid fuel boiler: principles of design, selection, manufacture and installation. How to make a long-burning solid fuel boiler with your own hands: drawings and diagrams

Ensuring your home is warm for the winter is a very important task. And if in the city special services undertake its implementation, then outside the city very often you have to do everything yourself, in particular, make and install heating units.

IN this material we will talk about homemade boilers long burning that run on wood.

Of course, a heating boiler operating on various types fuel can be purchased commercially. However, the same gas boiler will not be able to work everywhere, but a wood-burning boiler can heat a house no matter how far it is located from the gas main.

Among other things, homemade boilers long burning compared to simple ovens differ in a longer period between loading firewood, while the efficiency of heating the room does not decrease. In addition, we invite you to watch a video on the topic of assembling long-burning boilers with your own hands.

Operating principle of a long-burning boiler

The burning time of a wood-burning boiler depends on its design and the processes occurring inside. The principle of operation of boilers is this: fuel is burned from top to bottom, and not vice versa, as in a conventional wood-burning stove. In the firebox conventional boiler or a stove, the bottom layer burns first, after which hot streams rise and draw all layers into combustion, while the firewood burns very quickly and must be added every few hours, otherwise the stove will cool down.

In long-burning boilers, it burns out first upper layer, and then the fire goes lower and captures each subsequent layer of firewood. One load of fuel allows it to smolder for about within 30 hours, and after its complete combustion, a minimum of ash and soot remains.

The adjustment mode allows the firewood to smolder for a very long time - more than a day, and after it is completely burned, a minimum of soot and ash remains.

But it is worth remembering that long-burning boilers made by yourself It is better not to place it in residential premises, as they cannot guarantee your safety during use. It is best to equip them with such premises as:

  • technical;
  • production;
  • greenhouses;
  • houses under construction.
  • residential buildings until the main heating system is installed.

Advantages of a homemade long-burning boiler

Despite the fact that home-made wood-burning boilers cannot be installed everywhere or can be used as a temporary solution in residential premises, many people prefer them because they are easy to operate and have high heating efficiency.

The advantages of such boilers:

How to assemble a wood-burning boiler with your own hands

In regions of the country where there is no natural gas, it is highly valued solid fuel, on the basis of which heating boilers operate. Moreover, in almost every such region there are special enterprises that can supply solid fuel.

Long burning boilers can work not only with wood, but also on such types of solid fuel as:

  • sawdust;
  • pellets;
  • peat;
  • coal.

Materials for making a boiler with your own hands

To assemble a boiler with your own hands, you need material for the body. The following may be suitable for this:

  • metal pipes with large diameter;
  • barrels;
  • round tanks;
  • gas cylinders and other containers.

Most often containers come in steel and cast iron, let's look at how these two materials differ in characteristics:

Steel boilers are more popular among users. If you want to assemble the boiler with your own hands, remember that you need to ensure correct delivery air with the ability to regulate the wood burning process. To achieve this, you need to do the following:

  • correctly calculate the power of the structure;
  • choose quality materials;
  • prepare a design drawing in advance;
  • be able to make quality welds;
  • strictly follow the installation technology of the structure.

Now let's look at the most simple designs long-burning boilers that you can assemble with your own hands:

  • based on iron pipe;
  • barrel based;
  • potbelly stove;
  • "Slobozhanka"

Iron pipe based structure

Design parameters should be like this:

At the bottom of the structure there should be a door for adding firewood, and grates should be installed to blow in and clean the container from soot.

Inside the structure you need to place pipe with a smaller diameter, connect to a pipeline that runs through the room for the natural movement of coolant. Next, the system is filled with water, which can be heated to household needs and used for heating. WITH outside We install dampers that control the amount of water coming from the tank.

Barrel boiler design

Work in in this case looks like that:

  • cut off the top rim of the barrel and level it;
  • on a lid that can be closed hermetically, cut a hole with a diameter of 150 mm to remove carbon monoxide;
  • the chimney should be placed at a slight angle to the vertical surface;
  • The lid must be durable and fireproof. Make another 100 mm hole in it for oxygen access;
  • We place the pipe so that the gases can escape vertically;
  • The damper should not be placed too low so that the fuel does not burn out earlier than necessary.

You can also slow down the process of wood settling using a load. Together with a movable air distributor, this design will ensure firewood combustion for 60 hours.

Potbelly stove and its features

Almost everyone knows about this design. They consist of a water circuit that can provide heat to several radiators in a room up to 30 square meters. It can be used in areas such as:

  • greenhouses;
  • summer cottages;
  • houses under construction;
  • construction sites;
  • utility rooms.

How to assemble the Slobozhanka cauldron with your own hands

The operating principle of this design is quite simple. Eat two casings: one is internal, and the second is external, there is an air gap between them. Cold air comes from below, which is heated by the hot walls of the inner casing and rises up, then exits through the hole on the outer casing.

To assemble such a unit with your own hands, prepare the following:

  • thick pipes;
  • metal sheets;
  • fittings;
  • metal corners;
  • gas cylinders or pipe sections;
  • welding machine;
  • grinder;
  • drill;
  • hammer;
  • chisel;
  • electrodes.

The operating procedure will be as follows:

Long-burning boilers operating on solid fuel can be used for various household needs. There is no better or more economical option to use on summer cottage or in construction. In this case, you will not have to load fuel as often as in traditional stoves, and you will also save on the purchase of a boiler.

A solid fuel boiler is an expensive unit, and many home craftsmen want to make it themselves, reducing costs family budget for heating and system maintenance. The schematic diagram of a long-burning solid fuel boiler is quite complex, but with appropriate theoretical and practical training Everyone can make this heating device, and in some respects it can surpass industrial designs of solid fuel boilers.

Types of pyrolysis boilers

The first step when assembling a long-burning boiler with your own hands is to choose the type of unit, which will depend on the training of the master, the use of professional and special devices and materials. It is not difficult to find a drawing of a long-burning solid fuel boiler, and you can take the following diagram as a basis:

This is the simplest but most reliable boiler circuit that uses the pyrolysis effect. What designs of pyrolysis combustion heating boilers still exist, and how do they differ from each other? The main difference is how the direction of solid fuel combustion will be structurally designed:

  1. Bottom-burning apparatus - the fuel must be ignited from below. This traditional scheme operation of most pyrolysis devices. Such units are divided into two subtypes:
    • With a standard combustion scheme, in which coal, peat or sawdust ignite and burn in one combustion chamber, which simultaneously works as a loading (stuffing) chamber and a firebox. Exhaust gases and smoke are discharged through a chimney in the upper compartment of the firebox;
    • A shaft-type boiler—a shaft for storing fuel—performs only its functions. The fuel ignites from below, the fire and hot combustion products move through a heat exchanger located in the adjacent chamber;
  2. Appliances with top combustion of fuel work the other way around - flammable material is set on fire from above and goes long process combustion directed from top to bottom under the influence of forced pressurization.

Based on the type of fuel combustion, the units are divided into:

  1. Boilers with standard combustion type;
  2. Units with gas generator or pyrolysis combustion - fuel burns at high temperatures in the chamber and with a lack of oxygen. This releases wood gas, called pyrolysis gas, which also burns during its removal from the boiler.

Also, boilers operating on solid fuel may have different circuits and designs of heat exchangers. The heat exchanger itself can be made in the form of a coil encircling the fuel chamber and pipes, or in the form of a solid metal jacket that covers the firebox on all sides.

Solid fuel boiler - how to make it yourself

Solid fuel gas generators are considered the most efficient in terms of efficiency (≥ 90%), simple to manufacture and reliable in operation. Such a heating device operates on the principle of “slow” burning of fuel when there is a lack of oxygen in the firebox. Due to the lack of oxygen in the chamber, a large volume of flammable gases is formed, the combustion of which occurs in the next chamber. It is noteworthy that combustible materials are cheap and accessible firewood, peat or straw in briquettes (pellets), oil mill waste (sunflower husks), coal, shavings or sawdust, and household waste.

An industrial pyrolysis boiler is expensive (at least $600-700), although many people like it for its characteristics. For this reason, assembling an upper combustion boiler at home is a popular problem that solves economic problems. family issues.

The complexities of assembly do not deter craftsmen - you need to be able to handle electric welding, read drawings and diagrams. Heating equipment with a lower chamber is more expensive and more difficult to make, therefore, for self-assembly of the boiler, we recommend a scheme with pyrolysis combustion, the chamber for which is mounted in the upper part of the body.

Design and manufacture of a top combustion boiler

  1. To make the boiler body, you need to prepare two metal molds With different sizes which are connected by welding to each other. The easiest way to find cylindrical housings, for example, from gas, oxygen or other cylinders. Balloon bigger size will serve as the outer casing, the smaller cylinder will serve as the combustion chamber of the boiler;
  2. The distance between the cylinders will act like a shirt - the coolant will pass through it;
  3. The smaller cylinder is divided by a steel partition into two compartments - one part works as a firebox and air distributor, in the other compartment the gas released during the pyrolysis reaction is burned;
  4. The distributor is made in the form of a telescopic structure, at one end of which a plane with petals is attached by welding, evenly distributing the burning emissions;
  5. Air enters the combustion zone from the reverse end to maintain constant combustion of the fuel;
  6. As it burns, the volume of the fill decreases, and the distributor moves lower, redistributing the air supply;
  7. To control combustion, special devices powered by electricity are installed;

To make pyrolysis boilers by a craftsman you will need simple tools, inexpensive materials and clear diagrams:

  1. You need to develop your own drawing or make a long-burning solid fuel boiler with your own hands, drawings for which can be found in the public domain. As a last resort, you can work with general or circuit diagram, which will indicate the main dimensions of the structure;
  2. Apparatus direct current for metal welding, electrodes 3 and 4 mm;
  3. Grinder and metal discs (grinding and cutting);
  4. Metal cylinder ( steel pipe or cylinder) L = 1.3 m, Ø = 0.5 m, H = 3 mm (L – length of the cylinder, Ø – diameter of the cylinder, H – thickness of the cylinder stack);
  5. Metal cylinder (steel pipe or cylinder) L = 1.5 m, Ø = 0.45 m, H = 3 mm (L – length of the cylinder, Ø – diameter of the cylinder, H – thickness of the cylinder stack). If there are no cylinders or suitable pipes, you can make housings from steel sheets measuring 1250 x 2500 x 2.5 mm, roll them at the factory and weld them into round housings;
  6. Steel pipe Ø 60 mm, product length – 1.2 m;
  7. Two narrow iron cylinders Ø 0.5 m, 25 mm wide. Such elements can be formed from sheet iron and cook;
  8. Steel sheet for the door of the loading and ash chambers;
  9. Canopies, handles for opening doors, air valves;
  10. Trimmings metal corner for body legs and for the manufacture of blades;
  11. Asbestos cord or asbestos sheet for thermal insulation of the firebox and ash door;

How to make a boiler body from pipes

  • Steel pipes of 0.5 and 0.45 m are inserted into each other and connected by a metal ring made from a 25 mm wide plate;
  • A blank Ø 0.45 m is cut from sheet iron, one end of the pipes is welded to obtain a cylinder with a thermal contour 25 mm wide;
  • At the end of the cylinder is cut rectangular hole 150-100 mm in size for the ash chamber door. Then the hatch is welded, the door itself is mounted on hinges and equipped with an air valve;
  • A rectangle is cut out higher up the body for storing fuel. The dimensions of the combustion door are calculated based on the size of the fuel. The hatch is welded and the door is attached to the hinges, which is also equipped with a latch. It is recommended to make doors with double walls and asbestos gaskets to reduce heat losses;

  • A piece of pipe is welded into the top of the body to release fuel combustion products;
  • According to the size of the jacket, pieces of pipes Ø 1 inch or ¾ inch are welded at the top and bottom, through which the heating of the house will be connected. The pipes are threaded;

It remains to check all the seams by crimping with water under pressure ≥ 2 kg/cm 2.

How to make an air distributor


  1. It is necessary to cut a workpiece from sheet iron that is two to three centimeters smaller than the Ø of the inside of the boiler. In the center of this workpiece, you need to cut out a hole Ø 60 mm by welding (the same as the diameter of the distributor pipe);
  2. After making the boiler distributor, you need to secure it. To do this, a steel circle Ø 500 mm is cut out, and a hole Ø 60 mm is cut in the center. The distributor is installed in the unit, the upper part of the distributor must be threaded into this hole, after which the boiler lid can be hermetically welded. To raise and lower the distributor, a steel cable is attached to the loop;
  3. Sections of a corner or channel are welded onto the circle from below, which will act as blades. They can be bent, as in the photo, but can be left straight;
  4. At the opposite end, an iron loop is attached by welding to lift the distributor, and a damper is installed, which is designed to regulate air jet in the fuel combustion zone.

Do-it-yourself long-burning pyrolysis boilers, drawings of which can be found in the public domain in a wide variety, may have a lower chamber, but such designs are much more difficult to make with your own hands. Such units are structurally made with a smoke exhauster or with forced pressurization.

In this design, air is forced into the chamber intended for combustion of fuel. This boost creates high pressure, due to which almost complete combustion occurs. The fan can be mounted either directly on the firebox door, or on the side, connected to the chamber with a metal sleeve.

Advantages of bottom-burning boilers:

  1. The boost fan can be absolutely anything;
  2. It is possible to combine the combustion chamber with the afterburning chamber, since the implementation of pressurization provides the required volume of air, and it can be regulated by the power of the fan.

But this advantage also has negative sides:

  1. Because of high speed the air stream does not direct all the air to the center of the combustion center, and the fuel will not burn completely;
  2. Also, due to the high air speed, a small percentage of pyrolysis gases do not burn, entering the chimney in their original form, so it is impossible to achieve an efficiency of more than 80-90% with such an organization of the combustion process.
  3. If the boost is too strong, the boiler can simply explode, so it is necessary to carefully calculate the speed of the pressurization and the amount of pressure created.

What is needed first of all in order to make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands: drawings, diagrams, availability of appropriate materials or skills? Of course, all this is necessary, but the first thing you need to do is to choose exactly the type of boiler or its design that you are able to manufacture. In this article we will look at several types of such metal structures, their diagrams and drawings. We hope that some of the options considered will be useful to you, or based on them you will make your own design that best satisfies your requirements.

What kind of solid fuel boiler can you make yourself?

Before you start making your own boiler that runs on solid fuel, you need to choose the type of boiler that you are able to handle, based on the availability of skills, appropriate materials, tools and equipment. And only after this, in accordance with the chosen type, should you begin to search for suitable drawings or draw them up yourself based on the scheme of its operation and the required power. What kind of boiler could this be?
Firstly, such units may differ in the direction of fuel combustion:

  • bottom, when it is ignited from below - this is how most solid fuel boilers work;
  • top, in this case the fuel is ignited from above and gradually burns to the bottom.

Boilers with bottom combustion can be divided into two types:

  • traditional ones, in which the fuel is ignited and burned in one chamber (it is both the loading chamber and the firebox) and exits through chimney located in its upper part;
  • shaft type - in which the loading chamber (shaft) serves only to load fuel; it is ignited from below, but the flame and combustion products pass through a heat exchanger located in the adjacent one.

Based on the combustion method, the following units can be distinguished:

  • with conventional combustion;
  • with pyrolysis or gas generator combustion, when solid fuel is burned in special conditions(at high temperature and lack of oxygen) with the release of pyrolysis (wood) gas, which is then burned.

Solid fuel boilers may also differ in the type and design of the heat exchanger. It can be made in the form of a simple "water jacket" around the firebox or have more complex design with additional registers made of pipes or sheet metal, allowing maximum transfer of combustion thermal energy to the coolant.

In addition, solid fuel boilers can be made only for wood or wood and coal. In the second case, it is necessary to take into account that the combustion temperature of coal is quite high, so the grates, firebox and heat exchanger walls must be thicker. In some cases, the firebox is lined with refractory bricks.

Below, we will look at several designs of solid fuel boilers, their diagrams and drawings, as well as features of operation and manufacturing.

Simple solid fuel boilers with traditional combustion method

As already mentioned, the fuel in such units is ignited from below. The loading chamber also serves as a firebox, and the combustion products, having given a significant part of their energy to the coolant through the heat exchanger, are removed into the chimney. There are a large number of such designs. We'll look at a few of them. They can be made from sheet metal and pipes, 3-5 mm thick.

Option 1

This design of a solid fuel boiler is quite simple. The heat exchanger can be made of sheet steel in the form of a “water jacket”. To maximize heat transfer efficiency and increase the contact area with flame and hot gases, its design includes two reflectors (protrusions inward).

Option 2

In this design, the heat exchanger is a combination of a “water jacket” around the combustion chamber and an additional slot-like sheet metal register in its upper part.

Rice. 2 Diagram of a boiler with a slot-type heat exchanger

Rice. 2: 1 - chimney; 2 — water jacket; 3 - slot heat exchanger; 4 - loading door; 5 - firewood; 6 — lower door for ignition and cleaning; 7 - grate; 8 - door for regulating air supply and cleaning the ash pan.

Options 3 and 4 (boilers with hob)

In these options, the “water jacket” is supplemented with heat exchange registers made of pipes in the upper part of the combustion chamber. In addition, such units are designed for cooking food on them. Option 4 is more powerful and has a top loading door.

Rice. 3 Designs of solid fuel boilers with additional registers and hob

In Fig. 3: 1 - firebox; 2 - register made of pipes; 5 — return pipe; 6 - supply pipe; 7 - upper loading door; 8 — lower door for ignition and air supply; 9 — loading door; 10 - chimney; 13 — grate; 14,15,16 — reflectors; 17 - damper; 19 — water jacket; 20 - ash pan; 21 — hob.

Top combustion boiler

This unit differs from the previous ones - firstly, in shape (it round section and can be made from pipes of different diameters), secondly, by the way fuel is burned in it (it is burned in it from top to bottom). In order to ensure such a combustion process, it is necessary to provide air supply from above, directly to the combustion site. This function here is performed by an air supply telescopic pipe, which rises up when loading fuel and falls down after igniting the fuel. As it burns gradually, the pipe falls down under its own weight. A “pancake” with blades is welded to the bottom of the pipe to ensure uniform air supply.

To provide better conditions After fuel combustion, an air heating chamber is located in the upper part. The air supply, and therefore the burning rate, is regulated by a valve at the entrance to this chamber from above. The heat exchanger here is made in the form of a “water jacket” around the combustion chamber.

Fig.4 Drawing of a top combustion solid fuel boiler

In Fig.4: 1 - outer wall (pipe); 2 - inner wall; 3 - water jacket; 4 - chimney; 5 — telescopic air supply pipe; 6 — air distributor (metal “pancake” with ribs; 7 — air preheating chamber; 8 — air supply pipe; 9 — supply pipe with heated water; 10 — air damper; 11 — loading door; 12 — cleaning door; 13 — pipe with water from the system (return); 14 — cable controlling the damper.

Boiler with pyrolysis combustion of solid fuel

The difference between this design is that solid fuel does not burn in it, as in a conventional one, but if there is a lack of primary air supply, it is “distilled” into wood (pyrolysis) gas, which is burned in a special afterburner chamber when secondary air is supplied to it. Such a presentation can be either natural or forced.

Fig. 5 Scheme drawing of one of the variants of a pyrliz boiler

In Fig. 5: 1 — draft regulator with temperature sensor; 3 - firewood; 4 - bottom door; 5 - grate; 6 — air damper for primary air supply; 7 - ash pan; 8 — grate; 10 — cleaning; 11 - drain; 12 — thermal insulation of the body; 13 — return (coolant supply from the system); 14 — nozzle; 15 — secondary air supply; 16 — chimney damper; 17 - pipe with heated water; 18 — damper; 21 — loading door; 22 - afterburning chamber.

Shaft type boilers

As already mentioned, a feature of such boilers is the presence of two chambers: a large vertical loading chamber (shaft) and a chamber with a heat exchanger. The fuel is ignited from below in the first chamber and the flame enters the other through a hole, where it transfers its energy to the coolant through a heat exchanger.

Such boilers can be either with conventional fuel combustion or with pyrolysis. In the first case, all required air is supplied through the lower door, and combustion products, passing through the heat exchanger, are removed into the chimney. In the second case, a limited amount of primary air is supplied to the combustion site, where the wood burns, releasing pyrolysis gas. In addition, such structures are equipped additional camera afterburning, where secondary air is supplied and gas is burned. At the top of the heat exchange chamber there is a valve that opens when ignited and allows the flue gases to escape directly into the chimney.
Below are diagrams of two options for shaft-type boilers with afterburners.
Option 1

Rice. 6 Drawing diagram of a shaft-type boiler with an afterburner chamber

In Fig. 6: 1 — primary air supply damper; 2 - lower door for ignition and cleaning; 3 - grate; 4 - firewood; 5 — loading door (can be located on top); 12 - pipe with heated water (supply); 13 — starting valve; 14 — chimney damper; 15 - heat exchanger; 16 — secondary air supply; 17 — afterburning chamber; 18 — return; 19 — drain; 20 - cleaning; 21 - damper; 22 — grate; 25 - ash pan.

Option 2

Rice. 7 Diagram of a shaft-type boiler with lining inner surface combustion and afterburning chambers

Video on the topic

DIY solid fuel boiler

With a thorough and correct study of the drawings of solid fuel boilers, it is quite possible to make a long-burning boiler with your own hands, reliable and economical.

Solid fuel boilers have been very popular for decades, although they have one significant drawback - they require constant loading of fuel (coal, firewood, etc.). Because of this drawback, they are often abandoned when arranging a heating system, but it is easy to get rid of it - make a long-burning boiler with your own hands, functioning on almost all types (exceptionally solid, of course).


How a homemade long-burning boiler works

Principle of operation

The operation scheme of such boilers is based on the feature of smoldering for several hours, while producing a large amount of thermal energy. It is typical that in this case the fuel is burned more completely, and the amount of waste, as a result, is noticeably reduced.


Note! Replacing active combustion with smoldering is possible due to the special design of the heating boiler.

The main element of the boiler is the firebox, where combustion is limited and the intensity of the air supply is controlled using special devices. The fuel is loaded twice a day in large portions, after which it slowly smolders (the limited amount of oxygen does not allow it to burn fully).

The pipe through which the smoke is removed is passed through heat exchangers and heats the liquid in heating system. It turns out that all you need to do is load fuel every 12 hours for uninterrupted heating of the house.


Main advantages

They stand out against the background of other types of heating systems. Of course, the main advantage is the duration of the work, but there are other important points:


Device structure

It is more convenient to use for making a boiler metal pipeø30 cm or more with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm (otherwise the latter will soon burn out due to high temperature inside the device). The height of the structure can vary between 80 cm and 100 cm, it all depends on the area of ​​the room.

Regardless of the modification, the boiler consists of three main zones:

  • loading area;
  • zones of smoldering and heat generation;
  • final combustion zones where ash burns and smoke gases are removed.

Note! The device that limits the loading zone and, accordingly, the smoldering time is called an air distributor.

This element is made in the form of a metal circle 5-6 mm thick with a hole in the middle, through which oxygen is supplied to the firebox using a telescopic pipe. The diameter of the product should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the body. The height is adjusted using a special impeller.



Typically, the combustion zone does not exceed 5 cm in height - if it is larger, the fuel will burn too quickly. By the way, the oxygen pipe can be not only telescopic, but also solid. Its diameter is usually 6 cm, while the size of the hole in the air distributor does not exceed 2 cm, so as not to saturate the area with oxygen.


Air can be supplied in one of two ways:

  • straight from the atmosphere;
  • from a special heating chamber (it is located in the upper part of the structure), which provides more effective work boiler

A special air damper is used for adjustment.

The chimney pipe is welded on top. It must be perpendicular to the body for at least 0.5 m, otherwise excessive draft will be formed.

A door is equipped at the bottom to remove combustion products. Cleaning should be done infrequently, because the fuel will burn more completely.

There are two ways to heat the coolant, each has its own strengths and weaknesses.



Method number 1. A coil is connected to the heat exchanger pipe passing through the combustion zone, through which the water in the tank is heated.

Method number 2. A separate metal tank is formed, through which the chimney pipe is passed. The hot smoke heats the liquid.

The first method is more effective, but at the same time more difficult to implement. The second one is easier to do, but it is only practical in small houses.

Prices for the range of solid fuel boilers

Solid fuel boilers

Manufacturing a long-burning boiler

It is not difficult to make such a design at home, but it will require skills and clear instructions.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To make a boiler you will need:


After preparing the equipment and Supplies you can start working.

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Note! The boiler must be installed on a flat surface. If required, equipped concrete base(here everything depends on the total weight of the structure).

The sequence of actions during assembly is as follows.

Step 1. The pipe, which will serve as the body of the structure, is cut in accordance with the selected length (from 0.8 to 1 m). If the length is longer, it will make it difficult to load fuel during operation. A bottom made of sheet steel and (if required) legs made of channel steel are welded.

Step 2. An air distributor is formed. To do this, a circle is cut out of a sheet of steel, the diameter of which is 2 cm less than the diameter of the structure. A hole ø2 cm is made in the center of the circle.

An impeller with 5-centimeter blades fixed to it, made of the same steel, is welded to the distributor. A ø6 cm pipe is welded on top so that the previously made hole is in the middle.






Note! This pipe should be equal in height to the boiler body (more is possible).

The pipe is equipped with a damper on top to regulate the oxygen supply.

Step 3. A door is installed near the bottom of the boiler to remove combustion products. Bulgarian from steel sheet a rectangle is cut out, the hinges with the locking handle are fixed. The rectangle will serve as the door.



Step 4. A chimney pipe ø10 cm is attached to the top of the boiler. The first 40-45 cm of the pipe should run strictly horizontally, after which it is passed through a heat exchanger (the latter is made in the form of a metal container with water).


Step 5. The lid for the boiler is cut out and a hole is made in it for the air distributor. It is important that the lid fits as tightly as possible to the body, otherwise smoke will escape through the cracks.



That's it, the long-burning heat generator is ready for use.

Features of fuel loading and operation


From a simple boiler, where a full air supply is necessary throughout the entire volume of fuel combustion, the long-burning design, as noted earlier, is distinguished by the limitation of this supply. Moreover, the loading volume directly affects the burning time, so in our case the combustion chamber is loaded extremely tightly so that there are no gaps.


Note! You can use not only firewood as fuel, but also sawdust, coal, peat, garbage (exclusively combustible), etc.

Fuel is loaded in this sequence.


Step 1. Remove the top cover of the structure.

Step 2: Remove the air regulator.

Step 3. The boiler is loaded with fuel up to the level of the chimney pipe.

Step 4. Fuel is poured from above a small amount lighter fluid (diesel oil, used oil, etc.).

Step 5. The air regulator is installed back, the cover is put on top.

Step 6. The air damper is opened to its maximum.

Step 7. A piece of paper is set on fire and thrown into the structure. When the fuel begins to smolder, the air damper closes.

The fact that permanent combustion has begun can be judged by the smoke emerging from the chimney. As the fuel burns, a pipe of smaller diameter will lower along with the air regulator - using this kind of indicator, you can determine the amount of remaining fuel.

As a conclusion

The described boilers are used not only for, but also for winter heating stables, sheds, greenhouses, etc. If the assembly and installation work were carried out correctly, the device will operate economically and absolutely safely, and any type of solid fuel can be used, including household waste.

In addition, boilers do not require constant monitoring; it is only necessary to determine in practice the period of time between loadings. It is worth remembering that the burning time depends not only on the volume of the structure, but also on the type of fuel.

Video - Do-it-yourself long-burning boiler

TOP 11 best solid fuel boilers

Photo Name Rating Price
The best solid fuel boilers long burning
#1


Stropuva S40U

⭐ 99 / 100

#2


Candle S-18kW

⭐ 98 / 100

The best pyrolysis solid fuel boiler
#1 Buderus Logano S171-50W

⭐ 100 / 100

The best classic solid fuel boilers
#1


ZOTA Optima 20

⭐ 99 / 100

#2


Sime SOLIDA EV 5

⭐ 98 / 100

#3


Protherm Beaver 40 DLO

⭐ 97 / 100

#4


Bosch Solid 2000 B SFU 27

⭐ 96 / 100

#5


Kentatsu ELEGANT-03

⭐ 95 / 100

The best double-circuit solid fuel boiler
#1


Kiturami KRM 30R

⭐ 99 / 100

The best combined solid fuel boilers
#1


ZOTA Mix 20

⭐ 98 / 100

#2


Teplodar Cupper PRO 22

⭐ 98 / 100

Stropuva S40U

The long-burning boiler model Stropuva S40U is very reliable and highly economical. Any solid fuel of any quality is used to operate the boiler. This boiler can heat up to 100 sq.m, suitable for water heating systems with both natural and forced circulation. One load of firewood into the boiler can provide operation for up to 30 hours, 2 days with briquettes and up to 5 days with coal.

  • high efficiency - 90%;
  • saving fuel and electricity;
  • it is possible to use various raw materials;
  • lightweight and easy to maintain;
  • completely safe;
  • long service life.
  • made of steel, not cast iron;
  • bright color.

Solid fuel boiler Stropuva S40U

Candle S-18kW

A cylindrical boiler with a specific operating principle: loaded firewood or wood briquettes burn only from above. One bookmark can smolder for up to 7 hours. At cold air temperatures in the boiler, continuous operation can be maintained for up to 1.5 days. Having a height of more than 1.5, the boiler does not clutter the room.

  • non-volatile;
  • has a high efficiency;
  • economical;
  • compact.
  • high price.

Buderus Logano S171-50 W

The Buderus Logano S171-50 W pyrolysis boiler model is equipped with modern automation, provides excellent result management of all working moments. Produces high efficiency and consumes minimal fuel. The volumetric loading chamber can accommodate firewood up to 58 cm. Together with an improved heat exchanger, it ensures a long combustion process and efficiency of up to 89%.


  • the presence of an innovative control system with many built-in functions;
  • environmentally friendly;
  • the presence of a tubular heat exchanger with a coefficient of up to 90%;
  • easy to clean.
  • need a strong floor for installation;
  • energy dependent.

ZOTA Optima 20

Solid fuel boiler producing power from 3 to 20 kW. Capable of heating a room from 150 to 200 sq.m, coefficient (efficiency) - 82%. Possible connection to heating supply G2. A full load of coal ensures its operation from 68 to 206 hours, with pellets - from 57 to 174 hours.

  • the presence of a feed hopper ensuring long-term operation;
  • digital control that ensures perfectly tailored operation to specific conditions.
  • imperfect mechanics;
  • volatile;
  • You must carefully study the instructions.

Sime SOLIDA EV 5

The boiler model SIME SOLIDA EV 5 (Evolution) is equipped with an enlarged combustion chamber, which allows the use of ordinary firewood as the main type of fuel. Coal can also be used. The boiler power depends directly on the fuel used: wood - 41 kW; on coal - 45 kW. The operating time of the boiler with wood is up to 2 hours, with coal up to 4 hours. Boiler installation is suitable for both various systems with circulation.

  • long service life;
  • Convenient to load and clean the boiler.
  • For installation you need to strengthen the floor.

Protherm Beaver 40 DLO

Solid fuel boiler made of cast iron with a power from 18 to 48 kW. For heating, you can use wood and coal. A cast iron heat exchanger, created using GG20 technology, ensures temperature distribution in its different sections. The original combustion chamber provides an increase in the heating area of ​​the coolant. The built-in cooling circuit prevents the coolant from heating above 110 degrees.

Solid fuel boiler Protherm Beaver 40 DLO

Long-burning solid fuel boilers help maintain heat without frequent additional firewood.

Instead of the usual 2-4 hours, one bookmark long-burning boilers last at least for 8-12 hours equipment operation. Exact time between loads depends on the design and type of fuel used.

Drawings of solid fuel boilers for long burning

Long-term operation of the device with a heat exchanger on one batch of firewood provides a special design:

  • increased fuel chamber capacity- accommodates 2 times larger volume bookmarks;
  • non-standard ignition direction- firewood burns vertically downwards.

The fire engulfs the top layer of fuel. Due to the dosed supply of air flow, an even, low flame is formed. The lower volume of the bookmark gradually heats up as the wood burns out.

Classical

In standard drawings they establish cylinder shaped heat generator. The rectangular body is not suitable for classic long-burning boilers.

The equipment works as follows:

  • combustion chamber filled with wood and lit on top;
  • in the process of burning fuel through a telescopic pipe on it a weight with a hole for air circulation is lowered;
  • oxygen enters the firebox through the chimney under the influence of natural draft or fan;
  • heat exchanger in classic scheme No, heating water is heated directly.

In addition to firewood, peat or coke is used for kindling.

Photo 1. Classic long-burning solid fuel boiler with wood in the combustion chamber and no heat exchanger.

Pyrolysis

In gas generators wood burns slower. Combustible smoke is released, which enters a separate zone and generates additional thermal energy. The design includes:

  • Loading chamber. The process of pyrolysis combustion of fuel takes place in it.
  • Afterburning compartment. This is where the gas burns.
  • Heat exchanger. Performed in the form of a “shirt”. Inside the heat exchanger, water is heated for subsequent release into the network.
  • Air supply device. Provides the flow of primary (into the furnace) and secondary (into the afterburning chamber) flow.
  • Throttle valve. To adjust the speed and volume of oxygen at the stage of the first ignition of fuel.
  • Devices for controlling the temperature and power of equipment.

Two cameras separates the fireproof ceiling with the nozzle and openings. The rate of heating of water inside the heat exchanger depends on the secondary air flow.

Photo 2. Pyrolysis boiler equipped with a loading chamber, a heat exchanger, the chambers are separated by a fire-resistant ceiling.

Shakhtny

Devices working based on the principle of conventional fuel combustion, simpler than pyrolysis ones. The design includes:

  • Firebox. This zone occupies from 50% volume equipment and more often has rectangular shape. Its height is slightly less than the length of the entire structure.
  • Fuel loading hatch. It is installed on top or side relative to the firebox.
  • Ash pan. Camera where naturally ash gets in with coal residues. It is equipped under the firebox.
  • Grate. Performs the function of a dividing grid between the internal sections of the boiler.
  • Door. The dimensions are selected taking into account the possibility of simultaneous access to both the ash and the lower part of the combustion chamber. To regulate the air volume, a damper is installed on the door.
  • Section with heat exchanger. In mine boiler projects, water or fire tube type designs are used. A hole is made in the heat exchanger chamber for the entry of carbon monoxide.
  • Chimney pipe made of metal or brick with a damper.

Once loaded and ignited, the fuel emits flammable gases. Through the hole they enter the chamber with the heat exchanger, heating the latter. The smoke releases energy and exits through the pipe, and hot water enters the heating network.

Photo 3. Long-burning shaft-type boiler with a heat exchanger in which the fuel emits flammable gases after ignition.

Step-by-step instructions for making a boiler from brick and metal

To choose the right design, it is recommended to take into account the area of ​​the room and the type of fuel. If the boiler is being built for a garage or country house small area, no water circuit required. Heating occurs from the surface of the device due to convection of hot air.

Attention! To increase efficiency and efficiency, the device is supplemented forced air fan system. If there is a heating network with a liquid coolant in the room, choose projects with a circuit in the form of a “coil” based on pipes.

The type of fuel affects the volume of the chamber. For wood burning boiler designs suitable with increased firebox dimensions. When using pellets or shavings, it is possible to equip a container for automatic feeding of granules.

Easier to build a structure based on metal with brick. For this purpose, a heat exchanger is made from profile pipes round and rectangular section, which is installed directly into a brick boiler.

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Required materials and tools

To make the body use:

  • Sand for mortar.
  • Refractory stove brick. As an alternative, a refractory analogue is used.
  • Cast iron grate.
  • Ready-made doors for the ash pan and combustion chamber(loading hatch).

The design of the heat exchanger includes:

  • round pipe sections - 8 pcs. 800x50 mm, 4 pcs. 300x40 mm;
  • rectangular pipe profile - 5 pieces. 300x50 mm, 1 pc. 500x50 mm;
  • pipe sections for circuits of water supply and transmission into the system - 2 pcs. 100-150x50 mm;
  • metal plates 60x40 mm to close the joints.

To reduce costs, choose products without seams from alloy steel grade 20.

When constructing a heat exchanger and boiler, the following is used:

  • grinder;
  • cutter - gas or plasma version;
  • pliers;
  • forceps;
  • drill;
  • roulette;
  • metal corners;
  • welding machine;
  • protective mask;
  • level.

For assembly heating device long burning suitable electrodes MR-3S or ANO-21.

How to build a structure with your own hands step by step

Assembling the heat exchanger with your own hands from 4 pipes 60x40 mm, round blanks D40 and D50 mm. Optimal thickness walls - 3-5 mm. From rectangular pipes length 300 mm make vertical racks - 2 each front and back of the register. For this:

  • On the back side of two pipes for front vertical racks cut out 4 round holes with a diameter of 50 mm. Irregularities on the surface are polished with a grinder.
  • On each of the two pipes for the rear uprights make 4 round holes with a diameter of 50 mm on the wide plane and 40 mm on the narrow side.

Important! Irregularities mandatory on the surface of the pipes delete grinder for precision welding.

Preparing the rack for connection

To prepare the racks for connection, perform the following steps:

  • In a lower rectangular pipe with a length 500 mm located in front of the boiler, cut a round hole with a diameter of 50 mm for connecting cold water.
  • In the upper opposite corner of the rear vertical pillar cut a round hole of the same diameter for the outlet of heated water into the heating system.

Front vertical struts connect with rear 8 long (800x50 mm) round pipes. They are placed perpendicular to each other and welded. Between the rear pillars they carry out 4 short (300x40 mm) round pipes . Install at the bottom of the front pillars long (500x50 mm) rectangular pipe with a hole for return.

Important! All edges are strictly perpendicular to each other. Welding is performed on a flat surface to avoid distortions. It is better to connect the racks and pipes with an assistant.

When the heat exchanger frame is ready, short sections ( 100-150x50 mm) are welded to the points of connection to the heating network, and all open ends of the racks are covered with pieces of metal.

To check heat exchanger for impermeability Before installation, the bottom hole is closed, and the container is filled with water through the top.

The design is upright. If there are no leaks, the heat exchanger is ready for installation.

Before creating a brick building, they build concrete foundation taking into account the dimensions of the device. A blower chamber is laid out on it and a grate is mounted. The heat exchanger is installed with an inclination towards the flow of cold water.

The outlet pipe must be located above any top point of the structure. Minimum height difference - from 10 mm or more. This eliminates the risk of formation air lock, improves water circulation.

Attention! A gap must be left between the brick surface and the extreme part of the heat exchanger minimum 10 mm.

The finished structure with a pipe is covered with fireproof or fireclay bricks. The optimal thickness of the walls of the firebox is ½ block.

Openings are left in advance and installed 2 doors:

  • lower- for access to the ignition point, cleaning the firebox and ash pan;
  • top- for loading fuel.

The latter is installed on the lid or front wall of the device. If desired, the lower door can be replaced with two separate smaller ones.

The masonry is made with mandatory ligation of stitches. The outer brick building is erected above the pipes at least by 20-30 mm. The upper part is covered with a cast iron sheet for quick dismantling if necessary. The design uses a chimney made of metal or brick remains. It is installed at a height from 5 or more meters relative to the level of the grate.

Connecting the device to the heating circuit

The finished device is designed to work in an autonomous network with natural and compulsory scheme energy circulation. In the first case, perform the following steps:

  1. A straight pipe is removed from the boiler, on which the security group is mounted.
  2. Using a tee equip a bypass.
  3. Device connected to the heating system through 2 pipes.

All joints must be wrapped in tow and covered. sealant.

How to avoid problems during construction and operation

The equipment is installed only on a concrete base. Rolled steel does not support the weight and the boiler sags. This leads to loss of joint tightness and damage to pipes.

Use homemade door Not recommended for firebox and ash pan. The slightest irregularities reduce the efficiency of wood burning.

Besides, possible loss of coals through cracks followed by fire. At self-production its doors are made strictly for the hole, they are provided with dampers and thermal insulation between the layers.

If a boiler with a heat exchanger is used in a local heating network, circulation pump set to return. So the device works in gentle mode for 6 or more years. To solve the problem of low-temperature corrosion, a three-way thermostatic valve is installed on the bypass (jumper) and adjusted at 55 degrees.

Persistent odor Creosote and smoke in the boiler room indicate low quality fuel. Cheap wooden sleepers are not suitable for heating and form ash and coal residues on the walls in less than a day of burning. To eliminate heat loss through the chimney, the latter is equipped damper. It prevents the escape of heated air and reduces the rate of fuel combustion.

Useful video

The video shows one of the schemes for creating a solid fuel boiler with minimal costs.

How to check before starting

Basic welding skills are enough to build a long-burning boiler with a heat exchanger without outside help.

detailed instructions helps to assemble a device with a heat exchanger for heating a house with an area of ​​up to 100 m2 with six 7-section cast iron radiators and wiring with 2 pipes.

In accordance with SNiP, before starting the boiler for the first time, perform 24 hour hydraulic check. For this:

  • shut-off valves and taps are opened;
  • water is released into the system;
  • the pressure is increased to 1.3 atm.

A simple method helps ensure that there are no leaks. Be sure to check the areas threaded connection and welds. The pressure level should remain unchanged. If any problems are detected, the boiler is disconnected from the heating network and the problems are eliminated.

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