Royal pelargonium - care and propagation at home. Possible pelargonium diseases and pests. What to look for when purchasing

Geranium, or, as our grandmothers affectionately called this flower, “kalachik,” is found in almost every home. Dark green, slightly hairy leaves and gorgeous flowers in a variety of shades create a cozy home. There was a time when this flower, along with ficus, was called bourgeois, but, fortunately, these times have sunk into oblivion, and geranium continues to delight us with its flowering.

Among the numerous geranium family there are plants that are completely unpretentious in care; even a beginner in floriculture can cope with their cultivation. But perhaps not everyone knows that among these plants there is a variety that has been awarded the title of royal. This flower can hardly be called just a geranium; many inexperienced flower growers will not find any similarity between it and their cute and more modest one. And of course, it is unlikely that anyone will call it a “ball”.

The heroine of our article will be the luxurious royal indoor geranium. This is a complex plant that requires constant attention and careful care. But we assure you, your efforts will be richly rewarded when you see the royal geranium bloom.

Description

Royal geranium, or is a representative of a numerous genus that has more than 250 species. This is magnificent indoor flower, which, with proper care, pleases owners with huge (15 cm) flowers of extraordinary beauty of various colors.

It is native to humid and hot climates South America. She feels great in conditions high humidity air and does not tolerate direct sun rays. At home, royal pelargonium grows up to 60-80 cm. More tall plant it makes no sense to grow, since the buds are only at the apical points of growth. At a height of 100 centimeters, the plant completely loses its decorative properties.

Today, many flower growers are interested in the royal plant at home because such a magnificent plant has many pitfalls that must be avoided in order for the capricious beauty to please with its flowering. It must be remembered that even with full compliance with all the rules of agricultural technology, it is impossible to extend the flowering period of royal geraniums. It is significantly shorter than that of ordinary species.

Royal geranium does not bloom: what to do?

This question worries many gardeners. There may be several reasons for this. To understand them, you need to understand what the royal needs behind this plant suggest right choice containers for planting, correct soil, timely watering and pruning, ensuring a winter dormancy period, replanting if necessary.

Let's take a closer look at the reasons why geraniums refuse to bloom. If the plant is planted in a pot that is too large, pelargonium begins to actively increase green mass and grow. In this situation, the plant simply does not have enough strength to flower, since its energy is spent on the growth of the root system and landscaping. Replant the flower in a smaller vase.

Another reason is that the roots of the flower are damaged. You should know that royal geranium is susceptible to fungal and bacterial infections root system. It is not easy to immediately identify the disease. This becomes visible when the disease affects the stems and leaves. Geranium suffers from a lack of nutrients. In this case, the plant is treated with antiseptics, which are sold in all flower shops. However, if the disease is advanced, it is rarely possible to save the plant. Flower growers should know that any disease and pests (aphids, weevils, mites, etc.) force the plant to spend all its energy fighting them. Flowering in such a situation is out of the question.

Another fairly common reason is the absence of a resting phase. What should you do in this case? Reduce watering in the autumn-winter period, do not feed the flower. Move the plant to a cooler place (for example, to a loggia). Warmth in winter time detrimental to royal geranium. Watering also affects the flowering of the plant, although not as much as the above reasons. What kind of watering geranium requires and why proper pruning is very important for it, we will tell you below.

Watering

Probably, after looking at the photos presented in our article, many will really like royal geranium. Caring for this beauty at home has its own characteristics. In particular, this applies to watering. It is better to carry out this procedure through a pallet. The plant will regulate itself required amount moisture. Water for irrigation should be settled and at room temperature; you can use boiled, cooled water.

Before flowering, the leaves should be sprayed from time to time. Dry crust that appears on top layer soil, is a signal to water. From excess moisture can provoke plant diseases, and its deficiency leads to the absence of flowers.

Royal geranium: pruning for lush flowering

Quite often, flower growers make a very common mistake in caring for this plant - pruning is done in the spring. It would seem that this is the right time, but in this case the royal geranium may stop blooming. Pruning for lush flowering should be done in autumn and winter.

Often improper pruning leads to the fact that the plant grows too long stems and it loses its decorative appeal. To form a beautiful crown, you must strictly follow simple rules:

Autumn pruning

Experienced flower growers know that royal geranium is very responsive to proper bush formation. Pruning for lush flowering is most often done immediately after the pelargonium has faded. This usually happens at the end of August. This procedure should be carried out in two stages with an interval of 1.5 months. This is necessary in order to prevent severe stress plants.

With such early autumn pruning, the royal geranium grows new shoots very quickly. Pinching them (above the fourth pair of leaves) stimulates the formation of new young shoots.

Trimming order

In order for pelargonium to delight you with lush flowering, you should follow a certain order:

Winter pruning

Experienced flower growers note that on short winter days, in the absence of sunlight, royal geranium grows tall. At this time, pruning for lush flowering is partially replaced by pinching, and long emerging shoots are cut off.

In April, royal pelargonium begins to bloom, so pruning should be stopped in mid-March. To maintain the shape of the bush, pinching can be done in the summer, after flowering. It is strictly not recommended to prune geraniums from December to February, so as not to disturb the dormant period. resting. At this time, it requires minimal watering and a lighted, cool (temperature no higher than 15 degrees) place.

Reproduction

Royal geranium is propagated, like ordinary varieties, by cuttings. At the end of August, cut cuttings 7-9 cm long, leave them in the air for several hours, and then plant them in a peat-sand mixture. Using a plastic bag, create a greenhouse effect and keep the soil mixture moist at all times. Then prepare a mixture of sand, turf and leaf soil and plant the rooted cuttings.

We told you what is required for royal geranium to delight you with its beauty. The care and propagation of this luxurious plant are somewhat different from ordinary species. But if you follow all the rules of agricultural technology, this marvelous flower will reward you for your efforts with lush flowering, which, unfortunately, does not last too long.

From the article you will learn how to properly care for royal pelargonium at home so that your flower does not dry out and wither, you will learn all the intricacies of keeping geraniums, how to feed, replant and propagate.

This unpretentious plant, brought to us from India and South Africa, has more than three hundred varieties and has long been widespread as a sophisticated hanging decoration residential premises and private courtyards.

You will also learn the etymology of the names geranium and pelargonium, as well as what it is connected with.
And many more interesting facts about this charming flower.

Growing and care

Growing and caring for royal geraniums is not particularly difficult, but in order to achieve long-lasting flowering, you need to know some of the plant’s characteristics. Pelargonium in winter is severely lacking in light and it stretches out, so in the spring it is necessary to carry out formative pruning, while replacing the top layer of soil with a fresh substrate, without replanting.

In summer, this aristocrat should not be taken out into the garden; it does not tolerate strong currents of fresh air and rain. However, it can be placed in closed areas: balcony, terrace or veranda.

Watering

Royal geraniums often suffer from waterlogging, but the soil should not be allowed to dry out either. Watering should be done only with settled water at room temperature, or even better - boiled. To avoid soil compaction, which this plant does not like so much, you should water through a tray; the roots will absorb exactly as much moisture as the plant needs.

Winter peace

Growing and caring for royal geraniums should include a winter dormant period with a temperature no higher than 15 degrees and scanty watering. It is at this time that the flower buds are laid. If there is no winter dormancy, there will be no flowering.

Transfer

Royal geraniums are replanted in the spring, but not every year, but only when the root system of the plant begins to climb out through the drainage hole of the pot. The new pot should not be much larger than the old one, since the royal geranium, like all geraniums, blooms better in a cramped container. During the growing season, the plant needs to be fed with a special fertilizer for pelargoniums twice a month.

• When transplanting your queen, be sure to add a decent layer of drainage to the bottom of the planting container.
• If you do not use special purchased soils, then prepare the planting mixture yourself: take garden soil, add peat and sand.
• Geranium does not like dense soils. Before transplanting, it is advisable to scald the prepared substrate.

Trimming

In winter, due to lack of sunlight, the shoots of royal pelargonium become elongated. To maintain the shape of the bush and increase bushiness, it should be pinched, and if the shoot has already stretched out, then cut it off. By March, pinching and pruning must be stopped, since in April the plant will begin to produce buds.

In summer, pinching is carried out to maintain the compact shape of the bush after flowering. And during flowering, carefully remove faded flowers.

Reproduction

Queen pelargoniums are propagated vegetatively - by cuttings. And, if our grandmothers rooted zonal pelargonium in a glass of water, then this aristocrat will not take it that way, its stems will become soft and then rot.

The most suitable period is the end of August, beginning of September, when it subsides summer heat. The tops of the shoots are cut off into about three nodes and allowed to dry for a couple of hours. Then they are sprinkled with a peat-sand mixture or sand, watered with heteroauxin or root. Cassettes or bowls are placed in partial shade.

• Watering rooting cuttings of royal pelargonium should be done moderately, only when the substrate dries out.
• You can’t pour it on the stems; it’s better to direct a stream of water around the perimeter of the pot.
• When the cuttings take root, growth will appear, which should be pinched over 3-4 pairs of leaves.
• Then they are transplanted into the prepared planting mixture, cared for according to the rules and wait for flowering next summer.

Increasing flowering time using grafting

The flowering period for queens is shorter than for zonal ones. Their bush is also not so tall. It is known that grafting plants of different vigor changes the growth pattern. So, grafting on dwarf rootstock medium-sized varieties of fruit-bearing plants, we can achieve earlier fruiting than on our own roots.

In addition, a grafted cutting, as a rule, is less inclined to stretch and more likely to branch, growing a compact bush. These are the qualities needed to graft royal pelargonium onto a very tall zonal one.

In zonal pelargonium, the crown is cut off at a height of approximately 60 cm. This remaining trunk must be mature. The lower end of the scion (royal pelargonium stalk about 10 cm) is cut off with a sharp knife using a wedge. Both branches should be approximately the same diameter.

• A V-shaped incision of 2 cm is made at the top of the zonal bole.
• A pointed scion is inserted into this split; the branches are aligned flush with each other along the edges of the split.
• The resulting joint is then wrapped with grafting film.
• It is better to start wrapping from top to bottom with a slight overlap, grabbing a little of both the scion and the stem.

For the growth of a grafted bush, it is advisable to install a support and constantly remove buds from the stem. If suddenly the royal pelargonium immediately begins to form buds, then it is better to pinch them off, otherwise all the energy will be spent on flowering and not growing together.

So, having examined the features of caring for royal pelargonium at home, we focused on the differences between cultivation and propagation from the previously common type of zonal pelargonium.

An interesting way to increase the duration of flowering is proposed - grafting.

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Caring for royal geraniums

I bought royal geraniums at the market from one grandmother. I really liked its flowering, which lasted quite a long time and most importantly, this flower did not cause me any trouble. But despite this, there are still some rules that must be followed. True, there are very few of them.

Brief information on caring for royal geraniums

• Temperature: normal;
• Lighting: loves it when there is a lot of light. It even prefers direct sunlight.
• Watering: plentiful. But between waterings, the top layer of soil should dry out.
• Humidity: not demanding. Even afraid of water getting on the leaves.
• Transplantation: in spring, if necessary.
• Reproduction: cuttings. You can use seeds if you have the patience for it.

Possible diseases of royal geranium

• The lower leaves turn yellow

There may be two options here. First, if the leaves are elastic, but their tips are dry, it means there is not enough moisture. Well, if the leaves, on the contrary, are limp and even begin to rot, then in this case there is an excess of moisture.

• The leaves of the royal geranium are turning red

The reason may be low temperature. If winter is cold and your windows are wooden, then remove the plants from the window for a while.

• The stem has darkened

• Unfortunately, the cause is such a dangerous disease as blackleg. Unfortunately, the plant cannot be saved. And to avoid infecting other flowers, ruthlessly throw away the plant and soil. Be sure to treat the pot with bleach or another product. You can also boil it.

• The lower leaves fall off and the stem becomes bare

Royal geraniums do not get enough sunlight.

• Watery pads appeared on the leaves

The reason is waterlogging of the soil. Just reduce the watering and soon everything will be fine.

• Gray mold appeared on the leaves

The cause is fungal infection due to excess moisture. Unfortunately, the disease is contagious and urgent measures need to be taken. There is no need to throw out the plant, but remove the affected leaves as quickly as possible and treat the plant with a special preparation.

Of the pests, whiteflies and weevils love royal geranium.

Royal geranium care and propagation

Royal geranium differs from its sister zonal pelargonium in that it has a dormant period during which it is important to provide the plant with a cool temperature.

• If you don't do this, then you for a long time you won’t see its beautiful, truly royal flowers.
• The thing is that during the dormant period the plant regains its strength and if the room is hot, then all its strength is spent on somehow existing.
• As a result, energy is wasted in winter and there is simply no energy left for flowering.
• Also, this type of pelargonium is afraid of heat. If the room is very hot, the flowers may wither, and if there are buds, they will wither without opening.

If possible, plant your beauty outside in the summer. However, it is important that she is not exposed to rain or wind, which she is very afraid of. Place the flower in a windless place and protected from rain, for example, on a terrace or balcony.

Watering royal pelargonium

As for watering, the plant loves water. Therefore, water it abundantly, but do not allow water to stagnate, it is very afraid of it. In addition, waterlogging is more dangerous than drying out the soil. If the soil dries out, then there is a better chance of saving the plant. But frequent waterlogging causes root rot. And if the roots begin to rot, then it is almost impossible to save the plant.

Make it a rule to water royal geraniums only when the top layer of soil dries out..

And don’t forget to regularly pamper your beauty with nutrients, especially during flowering. Therefore, during the active period, pelargonium is fed every 10 days. But during the rest period it is better to refuse fertilizing.

Royal geranium propagation by cuttings

Of course, if you are determined and have the patience and strength, you can try growing pelargonium with seeds that you can buy in the store, or collect it from the plant when it begins to bloom.

• But I personally lately choose the most simple methods, allowing you to save time, and most importantly, nerves.
• In general, now I try to propagate any plants by cuttings.
• In most cases, you can also go in two ways: plant the cutting in the ground or put it in water and wait for the roots to appear and only then plant it in the ground (unfortunately, this method is not suitable for royal pelargonium).
• It is better to cut apical cuttings for propagation (you can take them during pruning) at the end of August and until September. Choose cuttings that have 2-3 internodes. Leave the cutting for a couple of hours to let it dry, and then place it in the ground.

To speed up the formation of roots, I cut off the leaves of the cuttings, leaving 2-3 upper leaves. Thus, the plant does not need to expend energy to provide nutrition to the leaves. There is no need to cover the rooting cuttings with oilcloth. Also try not to over-water the cuttings.

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Features of large-flowered pelargonium

As befits a plant with such a big name, at home, royal pelargonium, in the photo, is more demanding of care than common varieties of zonal geranium, and it does not bloom for such a long time. But, having seen only once the huge flowers collected in inflorescences-umbrellas different forms and colors, it is impossible not to be eager to grow an equally beautiful plant on your windowsill.

Royal pelargonium, reaching a height of 30–60 cm, differs from other varieties:

• folded leaves with a dense, rough-to-the-touch leaf blade and jagged edges;
• large, up to 7 cm in diameter, simple and double flowers.

The decorative effect of the inflorescences is added by the multi-colored coloring of the petals, but while the flowering period of zonal geraniums ends in autumn, the last inflorescences of royal pelargonium wither in the second half of summer.

As a result, admire the caps of air bright colors it can take from 3 to 5 months, and it’s doubly disappointing if buds still don’t appear on the bush in the spring.

Why doesn't royal pelargonium bloom?

Having planted a young plant in the ground, amateur gardeners look forward to the appearance of spectacular inflorescences above the greenery, but sometimes they have to face disappointment.

Instead of flowers, large-flowered geranium produces only greenery, and the rapidly growing shoots soon lose their appearance and become elongated.

What mistakes were made when caring for royal pelargonium at home, and why, as in the photo, was the plant left with almost no flowers?

Indeed, if pelargonium does not bloom in due time, this may indicate:

• about incorrectly selected temperature conditions or lack of lighting;
• that the plant is planted in a pot that is too large or receives fertilizers of an inharmonious composition;
• about untimely transplantation;
• about illiterate pruning or its complete absence.

How to care for royal pelargonium so that the plant blooms regularly, is healthy and does not lose its decorative appearance all year round?

Summer care for royal pelargonium at home

When speaking about the unpretentiousness of pelargoniums, experts of this species are not lying at all.

In order for royal pelargonium to feel comfortable and delight its owners with abundant flowering, the gardener needs to adhere to just a few rules that will lay the foundation for the success of the entire cultivation.

Large-flowered varieties of pelargonium are demanding of lighting and like to be exposed to the brightest sunny windows. Only on the hottest days do plants need darkening to protect them from burns; in other cases, limiting light is a risk:

• stretching and exposing shoots;
• reducing the intensity of flowering;
• dropping buds that have already appeared.

Unlike related varieties, royal pelargonium does not tolerate drafts and cold winds; if such a plant is planted in the garden, it will probably not please you with its inflorescences. Therefore, royal pelargoniums are grown at home, and care is summer time includes draft protection. Plants feel great and bloom profusely on glazed sunny terraces and loggias.

If the air is excessively dry in summer, pelargonium can be sprayed with water at room temperature, making sure that wet leaves and inflorescences are not exposed to direct rays of the sun.

At the same time, do not forget about watering and fertilizing flower plants. Although pelargonium easily tolerates dry periods and is not too demanding on the composition of the soil, without water and nutrition it will undoubtedly not produce the required number of flowers. In the warm season, large-flowered varieties require especially abundant watering, which is carried out when the top layer of soil dries out a little.

Features of winter care for large-flowered geraniums

After withering luxurious flowers Pelargonium should recover, but if it is left on a warm windowsill until next spring, you may not wait for the next flowering. How to care for pelargonium in autumn and winter? With the onset of autumn, when the temperature drops, caring for royal pelargonium at home changes. For three months the plant is provided with:

• temperature about 12–15 °C;
• rare watering, which only supports the decreased activity of pelargonium;
• sufficient lighting.

Feeding is stopped for the entire wintering period. If all care conditions are met, the plant lays a sufficient number of flower buds and will definitely bloom luxuriously when it emerges from winter torpor.

Transplanting and feeding royal pelargonium

All types of pelargonium are different rapid growth aboveground part of the plant. If the roots of a bush that has grown considerably over the summer, taken out of the pot along with the soil, have completely entwined the earthen ball, at the end of winter the royal geranium is replanted.

• The soil for this crop should be loose, well-permeable and retain moisture.
• When wondering why royal pelargonium does not bloom, the gardener must take into account correct selection soil mixture.
• A good option is a mixture of equal parts of disinfected garden soil, sand and peat.

Because the root system The plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture; pelargonium requires a strong drainage layer; no less attention is paid to the selection of the pot when planting. It is because of transplantation into too large a container that many gardeners experience disappointment in the culture, and royal pelargonium does not bloom.

Once in a large pot, the plant rapidly increases its green mass, but completely “forgets” about the set of buds.

A similar process occurs with the wrong mixture of fertilizers. If nitrogen predominates in fertilizing during the formation of buds and flowering, the stems and leaves grow, and there are fewer and fewer buds. The best mixtures for feeding pelargonium are characterized by a high content of potassium and phosphorus, which ensures abundant and long-lasting flowering.

Pruning pelargonium

The reason why royal pelargonium does not bloom may be incorrect or insufficient pruning. Since the plant grows quickly and buds form at the tops of the shoots, it is easy to increase pure flower buds by pinching or cutting off the tops of overgrown stems in July and August. This measure will allow:

• use the resulting cuttings for propagation;
• achieve lush flowering next season;
• stimulate the growth of young shoots;
• give the bush a compact, attractive shape.

It is better to prune the plant gradually, without seriously injuring the pelargonium, and after the operation the plant must be fed. At the end of winter, with the beginning of new bud formation, pruning is completed.

Pelargonium cuttings

The resulting cuttings can be rooted all year round, but in the warm season it is much easier to do this.

As planting material take strong shoot tips that have at least two pairs of leaves and are cut 5 mm below the node. Lower leaves It’s better to cut it off right away and leave no more than 3 top leaf plates. After this, the cut areas on the cuttings are treated with crushed charcoal and leave in air for 18–24 hours.

True, there is another way. Already 10 minutes after separation from the mother plant, cut cuttings:

• treated with root;
• planted in a mixture of sand, humus and peat;
• Cover with non-woven material for 2–3 days.

Planting cuttings in moistened peat tablets gives good results.

In any case, the plantings are watered with a solution of phytosporin, which will protect the cuts from the development of rot. How to care for pelargonium after the cuttings have taken root?

It will take 8 to 12 weeks until the cuttings, kept at a temperature of 19–23 °C, take root well. After this time:

• young plants are planted on permanent place;
• pinch the main shoot above the third pair of leaves, which will force the bush to produce new side stems.

If you care for royal pelargonium at home, as in the photo, well, the young plants develop well, and next spring small, neat bushes produce their first inflorescences.

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Caring for royal geraniums

Timely and proper care of royal geraniums allows you to form a regular and strong bush during the first year of life, which in the second year of its life will give you lush, bright buds.

• Caring for royal pelargonium begins from the moment you decide to keep this plant in your home. You need to choose the right one appropriate place for landing.
• Royal geranium does not bring drafts, dry air or direct sunlight. Also the plant will not like it heat air and insufficient watering.
• However, overmoistening the earthen clod will not do anything good.

As you understand, the optimal place for growing is a north or east window, under which there is no battery central heating and which is not used to ventilate the room during the cold season. In spring, summer and autumn periods Royal geranium feels great in a glassed-in loggia. However, if there is a threat of the first frost, you should remove the plant to the room.

In the spring-summer period, an ambient temperature of up to 25 degrees Celsius is suitable for the growth of geranium. In autumn and winter, you should not allow temperatures to rise above 20 degrees Celsius.
Landing

To organize proper care of royal geraniums at home, planting is important. For growing, choose ceramic pots. They maintain the optimal temperature of the earthen clod and ensure uniform air distribution. There must be a drain hole to remove excess moisture.

• Pour expanded clay or any other drainage into the bottom of the pot. Next, fill the container with turf soil with a high organic content.
• You can add 1 tablespoon at once nitrogen fertilizers to ensure sufficient nutrition for the plant during the period of green mass growth.
• After planting, keep the royal pelargonium for 2 weeks in a shaded place and water it 2 times a day.

Royal geraniums should be replanted no more than once every 3 years. It is best to refrain from this event. This indoor flower is extremely painful to transplant and may even die.

Also, caring for royal geraniums includes timely application of fertilizing. In spring and summer it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers 1 time per week. Potassium and phosphorus should predominate. In autumn and winter, add nitrogen and organic fertilizers 1 time per month.

Be sure to shape the plant by pinching. The first pruning is carried out at the moment when the plant reaches a stem height of 15 cm. All tops are cut off by 2 cm. The second pinch is needed at the moment when the side shoots reach a length of 5 cm. Trim all their tops by 1 cm.

After this, you will get a spherical shape of the bush, which, with proper care of the royal geranium, will give abundant flowering in the second year.

Propagation by cuttings of royal geranium

At home, it is advisable to propagate royal geraniums by cuttings. Although propagation by seeds is not excluded. In this case, sowing is carried out in the first half of February in structured loose soil to a depth of 0.5 cm. Flooring as necessary. Picking in the phase when seedlings have 2 true leaves.

• Propagation by cuttings of royal pelargonium is available to every gardener, if available mature plant. In spring or autumn, cuttings up to 10 cm long are cut.
• For this it is better to use a sharp knife. Cutting should be done at an angle of 45 degrees.
• Immediately after cutting, 2 leaves are removed from below, and the cuttings are placed in water at room temperature for 7 - 10 days until roots appear.

After this, the cuttings are rooted in light structured soil in small diameter containers. Transplantation to a permanent place occurs after 2 months. To improve the rooting process, it is important to prepare the soil mixture. Add the same amount of construction or river sand to any soil. After mixing, pour boiling water over the entire soil. Also suitable for disinfection strong solution manganese But after watering, plants can be planted in 48 hours.

When rooting has passed, growth of the top begins. Be sure to trim it to 1 cm. This will stimulate the growth of side shoots.

Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom?

Many novice gardeners wonder why royal geraniums do not bloom. This may be a consequence of improper care, frequent transplants and the presence of bacterial and fungal infections.

First of all, carefully inspect the plant for dark spots on the leaves, fuzz on the stems and rot in the root part. If signs of disease are detected, the entire root system should be cleared of soil, rinsed under running water and place for 2 - 3 days in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Clean or remove all affected parts of the plant.

Prepare fresh soil. If the same pot is to be used, disinfect it with a bleach solution. Before replanting, also disinfect the soil with boiling water. Replant the plant and carefully monitor the appearance of new signs of disease.

Signs of morbidity:

• Also, royal geranium does not bloom if improper care and growth conditions are provided.
• For example, excessive dry air leads to the systematic falling off of buds and flower stalks.
• Their formation occurs only if the soil contains sufficient quantities of phosphorus, potassium and manganese.
• If nitrogen is applied in excess, green mass quickly increases and there is no flowering.

Another option why royal geranium pelargonium does not bloom is that the container in which the plant grows is too large. For this indoor flower, tall, but not wide, pots are more suitable. This ensures long-lasting abundant flowering. A large pot leads to the growth of green mass and lack of budding.

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Caring for royal pelargonium

Among the huge variety of pelargoniums, this is a real “aristocrat” - royal pelargonium (Regal Pelargonium) . Because of its large flowers it is also called: large-flowered pelargonium (Pelargonium grandiflorum). It differs from other varieties of indoor geranium (pelargonium) primarily in its large flowers. It also lacks the characteristic aroma of geraniums, which not everyone likes. And most importantly, unlike its “relatives”, royal pelargonium is capricious and whimsical at home.

Over the past decades, breeders have developed many varieties of royal pelargonium.

They differ in the shape, size and color of the flowers.

• For example, the flower that I bought in the greenhouse then has soft pink petals with small dark spots. This is Pelargonium Pink Mikado.
• But its other varieties are also beautiful: Aristo Schoko (pale red with light brown spots), Barkarole (variegated with silver edging), Imperial (white and pink).
• And how gorgeous are the dark royal pelargoniums: Black Berry and Black Butterfly.

In a word, today the royal pelargonium flower is represented in a mass of shades: from white to inky purple. And the shape of flowers is most often not simple, but double, and the petals of some varieties are wavy or corrugated.

The leaves of royal pelargonium are jagged, rough, and quite large. Although among the new varieties there are varieties with small leaves and small flowers, the shape of the leaves of royal pelargonium remains unchanged.

Light and warmth for royal pelargonium

I brought my beauty of royal blood home in bloom and did not dare to replant it right away. I wanted to admire it. I placed the ugly temporary flowerpot in a spacious, elegant flowerpot (for a queen, the decoration should be appropriate) and placed it on a stand not far from the window, where diffused sunlight fell on it, and it was warm all the time.

• After the pelargonium bloomed, I replanted it. The soil used was the same as for other types of geranium: a well-drained, light, slightly acidic substrate for flowering plants.
• It's a pity, but royal pelargonium blooms for a very short time. Approximately from April to August.
• In addition, in order for it to bloom at all (and for many lovers it does not want to produce buds), it needs to be kept cool for several months.
• Royal pelargonium flowers generally require a temperature of 10-15 degrees during the dormant period, so try to find the coolest place in the apartment for it in autumn and winter.

In summer, when royal pelargonium blooms, it needs warmth. But it’s not hot at all! The heat may cause the leaves to dry out, but the buds may not open. When growing royal pelargonium, diseases may appear - insect pests (aphids or whiteflies) or spots from sunburn appear on the leaves.

In the warm season, royal pelargonium can be planted in open ground (the coolness of the night will only promote flowering). In any case, that's exactly what I do. But royal pelargonium is afraid of rain and wind - do not forget about its delicacy. Place it on a veranda or terrace protected from the wind. In an apartment perfect place For summer period– closed balcony.

And in order for royal pelargonium to bloom and bush, you need to pinch the top shoots in advance (from February-March to April).

Watering and fertilizing royal pelargonium

The beautiful royal pelargonium does not mind abundant watering during flowering.

• You can water directly into the soil.
• But we must not allow moisture to stagnate or, on the contrary, the earthen clod to dry out.
• Leaves and buds will immediately droop and may begin to fall off.
• If overwatered, the roots may rot.
• I water the royal pelargonium as the soil dries out.

Like any geranium at home, royal pelargonium will grow and bloom better if it is fed on time. This should be done only in spring and summer, but not during the dormant period. For feeding I use liquid fertilizers high in potassium (for flowers) and microelements.

Propagation of royal pelargonium

• Believe my experience: under no circumstances should royal pelargonium cuttings be placed in water for germination - they will rot or simply not take root. And the young sprout also needs to be watered moderately.
• I planted the rooted sprouts in permanent pots filled with drainage mixture from the bottom and a light substrate to the top.
• The first year the royal pelargonium is just settling into its palace– builds up the root system and expels shoots. But already in the second year, truly royal flowers will bloom.

floristics.info

Main varieties of pelargonium

• Zonal(non-double, double, star and others) are the most undemanding varietal pelargoniums to care for.
• Royal geranium is a variety of flowers with large, showy flowers.
• Ampelous, scented and succulent pelargoniums have interestingly shaped leaves.
• Fragrant When touching the leaves, pelargoniums emit the smells of lemon, wormwood, mint, pine and other aromas.

Geranium and Pelargonium - why two names?

Why are flowers called differently - Geranium, Pelargonium? The names of the flower, both, are associated with birds. The name “geranium” is translated from the Greek geranios as “crane”, and “pelargonium” (pelargos) - as “stork”. The fruits of the plant look like the beaks of these birds, hence the names.

• That heat-loving perennial that grows at home and does not tolerate cold is pelargonium. And frost-resistant geranium grows quietly and overwinters in gardens and flower beds.
• Pelargonium seeds actually resemble the beak of a stork or crane, and are also very similar to the Tari bird.
• But we often call home pelargonium geranium. It's not that important. The main thing is that the plant brings a lot of joy to its owners.
• Growing geraniums at home is easy: it is easy to care for and easy to propagate. And as a gift for your care - colorful flowers of zonal, ampelous, royal pelargoniums or the lush greenery of fragrant geraniums.

Unlike indoor geraniums, garden geraniums are practically not afraid of frost at all and grow quietly in our garden plots and gardens. summer cottages, delighting gardeners with its modest flowers.

On our windowsills you can often see the beautiful Azalea, which presents the owner with flowers with truly royal generosity.

Easy and simple to care for

Lots of light and space, optimal watering and maintenance temperature regime- components of success when caring for a flower.

Accommodation

Pelargonium is doing well on window sills facing south. With a lack of lighting, it blooms worse and the stem becomes bare.

• But on hot days it needs to be shaded from the direct rays of the sun.
• Geranium loves space.
• When placing it, you need to make sure that neighboring flowers do not interfere with it.
• On southern windowsills indoor geranium feels great.

Temperature and watering

The temperature in the place where geraniums are placed must be maintained not lower than +10-15°C. Temperatures below these values ​​provoke exposure of the stems and cessation of flowering. If during the frosty period the edges of the leaves of a geranium standing on the windowsill turn red, then you need to move the pot with the plant away from the window.
Like all hanging plants This type of geranium is best grown in a hanging basket.

Although geranium drought-resistant flower, the soil in the pot should not dry out too much, otherwise flowering will be poor. As soon as the soil in the pot begins to dry out, it’s time to water it. If the room is sunny or hot from heating, then it is better to water daily or once every 2 days, and when it is cool or cloudy, then every 3-4 days. But you shouldn’t overwater the flower either, otherwise the root collar will begin to rot. Then the plant may die.

Planting and replanting - what soil and pots

Pelargonium not demanding on soil. A good drainage layer at the bottom of the pot is essential. It is needed to prevent excess water from collecting in the soil: this leads to rotting of the roots.
As a rule, the pot chosen is not very large.

Indoor flower grows well on neutral and slightly alkaline soils. As an example, here are three compositions of earthen mixtures for planting homemade geraniums:

• humus, leaf, turf soil, sand (2:2:2:1);
• peat, garden soil, sand (1:1:1);
• compost, peat, humus soil, sand (1:1:1:1).

Young plants are replanted every year or every other year in March-April.
The pot should be small. The root system in the ground should, if possible, occupy the entire volume. When the roots are somewhat crowded, pelargoniums bloom more abundantly.
Cuttings on an industrial scale.

We propagate the beauty

• Seeds. They are sown at the beginning of the year, spread out on moist soil and sprinkled with a small layer of soil for seedlings. Place in a warm place, covering the container with pelargonium seeds with glass. The soil is moistened from time to time. The emerging seedlings are planted and grown for a couple of months in a place that is well lit. Then the seedlings are planted in permanent pots.
• By cuttings. When roots grow from a cutting placed in a bowl of water in spring or mid-summer, it is transplanted into a pot with soil. The water is changed periodically during the process. You can also plant cut cuttings in a loose earthen mixture, which is periodically slightly moistened during the rooting process. There is no need to build greenhouses to avoid rotting.
• Dividing the bush. In February-March or July-August, the soil along with pelargonium is pulled out of the pot, turning it upside down. Then they carefully pull the flower stems apart and place them in new pots.

Flower growers know that indoor plants can be grown
not only for aesthetics, but also for health. A prominent representative of such medicinal indoor plants is Kalanchoe.

Aloe is another equally important medicinal plant that can be successfully grown on a windowsill.

And feng shui fans prefer the fat family. Everything about money tree see here

How to trim

Boldly and a lot. Especially when there is nothing to save - with bare stems. Better - in the fall. It is also possible in the spring - when replanting the plant. To form good branching and a lower crown, adult stems are pruned so that only stumps no more than 4-7 cm high from the ground are preserved.

The main thing is that there are from two to five buds left on the stumps. In any season, to improve the branching of the stems, you can also pinch out young branches.

You can see how, after such a bold pruning, several new shoots have already appeared.

Typical diseases

Pelargonium gets sick most often due to excess watering and lack of fresh air. If a dark spot appears near the rhizome, the stem tissues begin to soften. In this case, it is not easy to save the plant. To prevent gray rot, “black leg” and other fungal diseases, the soil before planting pelargonium is sterilized, the growing area is ventilated more often, and the plants are treated with a fungicide once a year.
These flowers most likely cannot be saved; they were watered too generously.

If the leaves turn yellow, then you need to put the plant in a place where there is more light in the room and adjust the watering regime. The appearance of pads with watery contents on the leaves indicates waterlogging of the soil in the pot.

Control of winged and crawling pests(aphids, mites, weevils, whiteflies) comes down to the use of fungicides and compounds containing permethrin.
The plant does not have enough light, the leaves have begun to turn yellow.

Victoria Glendinning, a British writer, talks about Pelargonium as a living thing. She writes that geraniums bloom better if you talk to them kindly from time to time. And too much attention, loosening and fertilizing depress and confuse her.
Geranium essential oil with its aroma calms and harmonizes thoughts and space.

Breathe healing scent of pelargonium
useful for high blood pressure. Pelargonium juice has beneficial antiseptic properties: apply the mashed leaf to the wound and bandage it - it will quickly heal. Crushed geranium leaves are effective for ear inflammation, radiculitis and osteochondrosis. The smell of pelargonium repels flies and plant pests. A leaf placed in the ear of a domestic dog or cat will rid the animal of ticks.

The fragrant flowers may not make you happy, but the smell is amazing!

Caring for royal geraniums involves proper watering, timely pruning, providing winter rest, and replanting as necessary.

How to water geraniums

It is better to water royal geraniums through a tray, while the plant itself will regulate the amount of moisture needed. The water must be settled, at room temperature, it is allowed to use boiled water. Until the plant blooms, the leaves need to be sprayed periodically. The signal for watering is the appearance of a dry crust on the top layer of soil. Excessive amounts of water lead to plant disease, and lack of moisture leads to the absence of flowers.

Pruning geraniums for lush flowering

Winter pruning is integral part caring for royal geraniums. Short days and lack of sunlight cause the plant to stretch out. During this period, geraniums need to be pinched and long shoots that appear should be trimmed. In April, the royal geranium will begin to bloom, so pruning should be stopped in March. To maintain the shape of the bush, it is carried out in the summer after flowering.

With the onset of winter, the plant goes into hibernation. All you need is minimal watering and a well-lit, cool (with a temperature no higher than 15 degrees) place. At this time, the geranium is resting and gaining strength for the upcoming flowering.

Transplanting geraniums

Caring for royal geraniums involves replanting. This procedure should be carried out in the spring, when the roots become crowded and they find a hole in drainage system. The new flowerpot should not differ much in size from the old one, since geraniums bloom reluctantly in large volumetric pots. You need to put drainage at the bottom of the container. The soil can be purchased or prepared independently from sand, peat and soil. The planting mixture should not be compacted too much.

Why does geranium turn yellow?

At good care She practically doesn’t care for the royal geranium. However, with poor watering or prolonged exposure to sunlight, the lower leaves may turn yellow. Diseases characteristic of royal pelargonium: nematode, dropsy, rust, black rot of the stem.

For the geranium to bloom

To stimulate the appearance of flowers, you need to choose the right place for the plant. Royal geraniums love light, so the brightest places in the house are ideal for them. In addition, wintering in a bright, cool place, monthly feeding and spring pruning will ensure the appearance of large inflorescences.

How to propagate geranium

The result of proper care of royal geraniums will be a healthy, flowering plant that you will want to propagate. The method of propagating geraniums is cuttings. At the end of summer, it is necessary to cut cuttings of 7-9 cm, keep them in the air for several hours, then plant them in a peat-sand mixture. By using plastic bag create a greenhouse effect and ensure that the soil is always moist. Prepare soil from sand, leaf and turf soil and plant rooted cuttings.

Royal geranium, royal pelargonium, pelargonium grandiflora - beautiful plant from South America, brought to Europe in the 17th century.
The royal pelargonium flower is loved for beautiful flowers, but it is difficult to care for, unlike fragrant and zonal geraniums.

Lovers who decide to plant this flower at home will enjoy the beautiful flowering of geraniums on the balcony or in the apartment all summer and spring.

Pelargonium flowers are small plant, about 60 cm in height. It can be placed on a windowsill or hung in a flowerpot. Royal pelargonium is often planted in a tray on the balcony in summer. Its stems are herbaceous and erect. The foliage is emerald in color and completely covers the bush. The leaves have a rough surface with fluff.

Royal geraniums are prized most for their blooms. Pelargonium is large-flowered, the inflorescences are very large and are formed at the top of the stem.

The average size of the inflorescences is 15 cm. If properly cared for, their diameter can reach 25 cm. The flowers are from 5 to 10 cm long, and their size is usually proportional to the size of the inflorescences.

The diameter of the flower is about seven centimeters. The upper petals in the bud overlap the lower ones, which becomes like a fan. The color and shape are very diverse: there are white, lilac and violet varieties. There is no shade of red that royal geranium flowers are not painted in. Its buds come with contrasting inclusions or are of the same type. They can be terry and simple in shape, with wavy, smooth or corrugated edges. The flowers look great in the photographs.

Geranium blooms for about 3 months if it has proper care and good feeding. The flowering period is much shorter than that of other species. It can be extended by removing dried buds, applying fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium, and some gardeners also graft royal geranium onto other species. During flowering there is almost no smell, and many consider this a great advantage, because not everyone likes the rich aroma of flowers.

Gallery: royal pelargonium (25 photos)

Home care

Caring for royal geraniums at home is quite difficult. If the rules of care are violated, it may stop blooming. Pelargonium does not grow well in the shade, but it also does not like direct sun, because the leaves can get burned. Overwatering or underwatering has a detrimental effect on flowers. Geraniums can be affected by pests and diseases. Basic rules of care required by Royal Pelargonium at home:

• Light. Royal geranium loves light, then it blooms profusely and for a long time. It can be placed on a southern windowsill, but care must be taken that direct rays do not burn the leaves. In winter, the flower needs to be additionally illuminated, because due to lack of light the stems will become very elongated.
• Temperature. In summer, the room temperature should not exceed 25 degrees. Geraniums need a period of rest in winter; this is possible only at 15 degrees. Plants will not bloom if this period is not observed. If there is a draft or overheating, the same thing can happen.
• Watering. Geranium loves moisture very much, so it needs to be watered abundantly. The layer of soil on top should dry out between two waterings. Some people advise pouring water into a tray rather than into a pot. For watering, use boiled water.
• Humidity. Spray geraniums only if the room is very dry. She is afraid of water on flowers and leaves.
• Fertilizer. Fertilize in summer and spring during the flowering period. Use fertilizers high in phosphorus and potassium to extend flowering for several weeks. Fertilizer should be applied once every 14 days.
• The soil. Royal pelargonium loves neutral soil or with a weak alkali reaction. Add ash to the pot to reduce acidity. Ensure proper drainage to prevent stagnation of water.

If you provide proper care for pelargonium at home, it will bloom for several months every year. Despite the difficulties, many plant owners are very happy, because all the beauty of geranium flowers is worth the effort to grow this species.

Royal geraniums love propagation by cuttings. Cuttings of royal pelargonium is the most popular and easiest way. Remember that rooting in water is most often unsuccessful, the cutting rots and does not take root, so immediately plant it in the ground. Usually the procedure is carried out from mid-August or early September, but not later. A branch up to 10 cm long is cut from the top.

The cutting must have 2-3 nodes. After cutting, leave it for a few hours to dry and then plant it in soil with good drainage.

To protect against diseases, fry the soil in the oven or treat it with a solution of potassium permanganate. After this treatment, the cuttings are planted in the ground no earlier than two days later, so prepare the soil in advance. When rooting is complete, after a few weeks, plant the plant in its permanent pot. To speed up the process, carefully detach the leaves from the branch so that all the plant’s energy goes into the formation of roots.

Propagating plants by seeds is a very labor-intensive process, but this method produces hardy plants with a long flowering period. The seeds are bought in the store - they are oblong and small. They are planted in a deep container.

For soil, it is better to take a mixture of sand and peat with the addition of ash. Planting takes place in mid-February. The seeds are planted half a centimeter into the ground. A month later the first shoots appear. When two leaves are already visible, the sprouts dive into a small pot.

Pruning and grafting

In winter, pelargonium stretches out because it does not have enough light. The plant requires pruning before the flowering season. It is held at the end of February. Carefully cut off the tops of the branches to form a beautiful crown. Use them for reproduction. Do not prune radically, as this may cause the plant to stop blooming. Royal pelargonium should be replanted infrequently, once every 3 years. Remember, it blooms only in a cramped pot; one that is too spacious will not suit it.

Pelargonium can be made to bloom longer by grafting onto other species. Fragrant geranium is best suited for this. To graft, take twigs with three or two leaves, make a cut about a centimeter long. Make exactly the same cut on the second plant, combine them and tie them with woolen thread. Do all this in virtually sterile clean conditions, otherwise the vaccine will not take root.

Difficulties in growing

When growing royal geraniums, various difficulties may arise:

• The plant's leaves sometimes turn yellow. If this happens at the tips, then most likely the flower lacks moisture. If the leaves rot or wither, the cause may be overwatering.
• When the soil is moistened abundantly, water pads will appear on the leaves.
• When cold, the leaves may turn reddish. In this case, place the flower further from the window.
• If there is not enough light, the leaves will fall off.

Plants are susceptible to disease. If the flower's stem has turned black, it will no longer be possible to save it. Throw away such a plant along with the soil, and treat the window sill and pot with bleach. Gray fluff may appear on the leaves due to excess moisture; it is caused by a fungus. Urgently remove this gray mold and adjust watering. The most common pests that attack geranium are boll weevils and whiteflies. Carefully collect the insects or kill them with insecticides.

Many people are interested in why royal pelargonium does not bloom. The reason for this may be invisible fungal infections. Carefully inspect the stems, leaves and root zone. Remove diseased parts of the plant and reduce watering.

If the flowers fall off too quickly, this may be due to an excess of nitrogen in the soil or dry air in the room. Problems can also arise when the shoulder straps become very long, at which point the flower stalks do not develop. Low temperatures in winter and spring can also prevent flowering, as can overheating in summer. Frequent replanting is also harmful to the plant.

The ancestral homeland of royal pelargonium is the Cape Lowlands of South Africa. From here, first to England, and then throughout the world, many indoor views, including pelargonium. By crossing several varieties, breeders obtained royal pelargonium.

The most beautiful representative of pelargoniums is the royal geranium. This beautiful indoor flower differs from related varieties in its lush flowering. Bright and delicate inflorescences do not rise above the bush on a peduncle, as in other representatives of the genus, but are level with the green mass of the flower. The bush itself is more lush. The short stem is densely covered with green leaves. The inflorescence is larger than most species and reaches up to 15 centimeters in diameter. In some varieties, the flower alone reaches 7 centimeters in diameter. An example of such a variety is White Glory pelargonium. Thanks to the lush and friendly flowering, forming a continuous cap over the bush, the plant received the name royal (royal, large-flowered) geranium. In some representatives of the species, the flower has two upper and three lower clearly defined petals. The upper petals are always more brightly colored and resemble pansies in appearance.

Pelargonium White Glory

Royal pelargonium, like all geraniums, has extremely beneficial properties. People suffering from allergies and asthma should treat it with caution, but for others it can become a source of energy. Essential oils and phytoncides secreted by the flower relieve stress, relieve irritability and tension. Red varieties of pelargonium can help in relationships. Phytoncides and essential oils, secreted by the plant, relieve insomnia. Used in cosmetology as a component of massage oils: for varicose veins veins, hair and skin care. This flower is also endowed with the ability to harmonize relationships, attract happiness, love and understanding into the home. It is believed that the plant promotes financial well-being, relieves and protects the house from the evil eye and damage. To do this, it is recommended to get him an azalea as a mate.

The bright decorative appearance of the bush and lush flowering with proper care will last from March to October. To do this, the flower must be trimmed, fed and maintained in a timely manner.

Royal pelargonium, with the exception of a few varieties, differs from other geraniums in its weakly expressed aroma. The height of the plant does not exceed 50 centimeters. Large inflorescences are distinguished by a wide variety of colors. There are white, pink, burgundy, purple and almost black varieties. Some petals have a pattern in the form of spots, dashes and veins. The petals can be double with a wavy edge or even, opening flat. Royal geranium flowers are collected in an umbrella inflorescence, reaching 15 centimeters in diameter and covering the entire plant. Flowers on royal pelargonium appear in March-April, flowering ends in September.

The leaves are entire, lobed, with a wavy edge, sometimes finely serrated. Green color. The leaves are fleshy and covered with villi, although some representatives do not have them. The leaves are attached to the stem by cuttings, the leaf arrangement is alternate. The stem is erect, dense, almost completely hidden by foliage. The root system is fibrous.

In autumn, the plant does not lose its decorative effect; later it retains dense green foliage throughout the winter. After purchasing a flower, do not rush to replant it. Place the pelargonium on the windowsill where it will grow, let it acclimate for two weeks or wait until it finishes blooming. Only after this the flower can be transplanted.

Varieties and types

Currently, more than 1000 varieties of royal geranium have been bred. Selection mainly continues to be carried out in Germany. Royal pelargonium varieties are divided into several groups.

The Candy Flowers group includes resistant varieties with lush flowering. These flowers feel great in open ground. These include, for example, the Cambi variety with beautiful delicate flowers, spots on the petals and light pink veins.

There are pelargoniums with large inflorescences of dark cherry color and dark spots on the petals, as, for example, in the Camred and Candy Flowers Bright Red varieties.

The Camdared variety has outer and inner sides The petals are painted in different shades. Bright red inner and pale outer side The petals add additional volume to the inflorescence.

Candy Flowers Pink with Eye - a variety with dark spots on pink leaves.

The Angels pelargonium group includes miniature varieties with a short flowering period. They feel great at home in winter. The structure of the stem allows them to be grown as hanging varieties. They do not need wintering with lower temperatures to form buds. Unlike most varieties of royal pelargonium, representatives of this variety have foliage with a pronounced aroma. Among the most common varieties, Spanish Angel is the most popular. The flower does not exceed 35 centimeters in height. The flowers are painted in two tones: the upper ones are darker, and the lower ones are light purple. The diameter of each flower does not exceed 3.5 centimeters.

The Imperial Butterfiy variety also belongs to miniature varieties, not exceeding 30 centimeters in height. Cute white flowers with purple dashes have a pleasant lemon aroma.

Two-color varieties include Darmsden. The plant is not large and will fit compactly on the windowsill. The upper petals are dark cherry color. Lower white, there may be dashes.

PAC Angeleyes Viola is a variety with a pleasant citrus aroma and a beautiful lush inflorescence of delicate almost white flowers with a pink spot on each petal.

Some varieties of pelargonium are capable of blooming several times per season. For example, the Sally Munro variety. It pleases the eye with two-color flowers with dark cherry upper petals and pale pink lower petals.

The white varieties beloved by many, among which the Mona Lisa variety boasts the most lush flowering, will decorate any window.

Varieties with a wavy flower edge are popular. A representative can be considered Georgina Blythe - with red-orange flowers, a white neck and a white edging on the petals. The variety is so small that it rarely exceeds 35 centimeters in height. The Morwenna variety also has a beautiful edge. The plant is so dark in color that it is often confused with black. However, it can be described as a dark burgundy velvet color.

Plant care

Caring for royal geraniums is not much different from caring for other members of the pelargonium family. The plant is native to South Africa. The flower was obtained by crossing several varieties specifically for home grown. The flower turned out to be warm and light-loving. Royal pelargonium is fastidious in care, but for its lush flowering it is very fond of gardeners. To obtain long-lasting flowering, you must follow some rules.

Features of summer care at home

Caring for royal geraniums at home is easy. In summer, the flower is in a blooming state, so all pruning procedures are stopped before the flower buds begin to form. All that remains is to water and feed with fertilizer. The fertilizer should not contain nitrogen, a small amount is acceptable. Faded flowers should be removed in a timely manner, this will prolong flowering and preserve decorative properties.

Average outdoor temperatures are comfortable for pelargonium; it can be set to Fresh air. If in early spring or in the fall, temperatures drop below 22 degrees, the flower may be susceptible to various bacterial and fungal diseases, especially if this is associated with excessive watering. Also, low outdoor temperatures can cause leaves to turn red.

If a flower pot is placed outside, be careful about watering it. Temperature changes can lead to uneven drying of the earth ball. Best time for watering before 10 am or after 6 pm, if you are sure that the night will be warm. Despite the fact that the plant is from a very hot climate zone, direct sunlight can damage the delicate petals of the flower.

Pelargonium, located outdoors in summer, requires special attention and regular inspection for the presence of insect pests. When the first signs of pests appear, the plant must be isolated and treated with an insecticide. It is not recommended to plant a flower in a flowerbed without a flower pot. The roots of the plant can be damaged by insects; besides, royal pelargonium, unlike zonal pelargonium, does not like frequent replanting.

Features of winter care at home

At home, caring for royal geraniums comes down to ensuring a period of rest with a decrease in temperature to 10-15 degrees. Only varieties from the Angels group do not need wintering; they can continue to be kept under normal conditions. room temperature. Overwintering pots should stand for at least two months. At this time, reduce watering and pinch the bush. Before wintering, the plant is prepared, the flower is trimmed by 1/3 and feeding is stopped. This will allow you to get more luxuriant flowering next year and extend it to 9 months.

Location and lighting

Pelargonium is very light-loving plant, but direct sunlight can harm it. Contents too dark room will lead to strong elongation of the stems, they will become thin and pale green in color. Lack of light in winter will negatively affect flowering. The optimal location of pelargonium is on an east or west window. On the windowsill of a south window, it is better to shade the plant from direct sunlight.

Temperature

Pelargonium is a heat-loving plant. Suitable for summer keeping street conditions middle lane. Temperature +22…+27° is most optimal. If the temperature rises, the plant needs to be watered more often: twice a day before 10 and after 18 hours.

In winter, the temperature must be reduced to -10...-15°. You can keep the plant on a heated loggia or in a greenhouse. It is necessary to take into account that the amount of light should not decrease significantly. On cold window sills, usually with wooden frames, the flower will also be comfortable. The above temperature allows the plant to lay flower buds, gives the opportunity to rest and ensures early, lush flowering.

Watering

Due to the fact that the flower needs a change in temperature, watering also needs to be adjusted. On hot summer days, watering should be increased to twice a day. Indoors in the summer, one to two waterings per week are sufficient. When kept cold, watering is reduced to once a week. Before each watering, you need to make sure that the earthen ball is dry. Overwatering in cold weather leads to damage to the plant by root rot and powdery mildew.

Feeding and fertilizers

Pelargonium grandiflora prefers cramped pots and can grow in the same pot for several years. The soil is depleted, and there is a need for fertilizing. In early spring, emerging from the dormant period, nitrogen-containing fertilizers will be useful for the flower. They will help the plant “wake up” and begin to grow actively, forming thick green foliage. During the flowering period, phosphorus should predominate in the fertilizer - an element that promotes lush flowering. They begin to feed the plant with fertilizers for flowering in March, and finish feeding in September. Overuse of fertilizers in winter can harm the formation of flowers. If the pot is located outside and needs frequent watering, then the plant will have to be fertilized more often, since trace elements are washed out along with the water.

Trimming

Every year after flowering, before the geranium retires, the plant is cut back by 1/3 or 2/3. This procedure is carried out to obtain more luxuriant flowering in the future and preserve decorative look flower. Timely pruning will allow air to circulate freely inside the bush and protect it from rot and insects. Autumn pruning is necessary for almost all varieties of pelargonium, but in the spring it is not necessary.

Before the flower begins active growth in the spring, it is inspected, very thin and long shoots are cut off. In spring, pruning begins in February, no later than March. This is done with caution so that at least 3-4 internodes remain on the shoot. By pruning you can form a standard plant. To do this, remove the lower branches and leaves, leaving one large trunk. The stem of pelargonium is very fragile and, when formed in this way, needs support.

Step-by-step instructions for pruning pelargonium:

• A sharp knife or blade is suitable for pruning. The instrument must be disinfected with alcohol or boiling water.
• Shoots for pruning are selected that are weakened, very elongated and create excessive density in the center of the bush.
• The cut is made at an angle, in the direction from the center to the periphery of the bush, above the leaf node. If the leaves are not needed in this place, the cut is made under the leaf node.
• The cut areas are treated with charcoal or cinnamon powder.
• If the shoots are young and thin, you can pinch them with dry, clean fingers.
• After the procedure, the plant is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizer. This will allow the plant to withstand stress more easily.
• Royal pelargonium is very sensitive to pruning. To cause less damage to the plant, it is recommended to divide the pruning procedure into two stages, carried out within 1-2 months.

Royal pelargonium is very sensitive to pruning. To cause less damage to the plant, pruning procedures are recommended to be divided into two stages and carried out over 1-2 months.

After pruning, cuttings remain that can be used to grow new plants, as well as grafting to obtain interesting and more persistent flower. Using grafting, stamp species are obtained. In this way you can get a tree with different colors on one bush. For royal pelargonium, it is better to choose fragrant pelargonium as a support. The basis should be healthy plant not younger than one year. It is better to plant miniature varieties in early spring during the period of active growth.

Diseases and pests

Royal pelargonium is a strong, healthy species that is susceptible to disease and attack by insect pests only if it is not properly cared for.

The appearance of brown spots on the leaves indicates infection of the plant with gray rot. The cause of the disease is excessive moisture and high nitrogen content in the soil. You can fight the disease by treating the plant with Fundazol or Vitaros. The flower will have to be replanted.

A black stem at the base indicates damage to root and stem rot. With this disease, the flower becomes sluggish, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. The reason is the increased acidity of the soil, its severe waterlogging. It is necessary to treat the plant with Bioporam or Fitolavin.

Flowers that are planted in a flower bed in the summer are more likely than others to suffer from late blight. The disease manifests itself in general lethargy of the plant, slower growth, and the appearance of spots with white fluff. The geranium must be replanted, the damaged area must be cut with a sterile knife to a healthy area, then treated with charcoal. During replanting, completely replace the soil and disinfect the pot. The transplanted plant is spilled with Bordeaux mixture.

Sometimes tubercles and growths form on the plant. This disease is called Eden. The reason for the appearance is waterlogging of the soil. If signs of infection are detected, the affected leaves are cut off and watering is reduced.

Among the insect pests that pose a danger to royal pelargonium are: aphids, mites, whiteflies and caterpillars. Many insects are visible to the naked eye: traces of their vital activity are visible on the flower, cobwebs appear, leaves wither and turn yellow. Caterpillars prefer the tender buds of pelargonium. To combat them, insecticides such as “Marathon”, “Fitovetm”, “Aktara” are suitable. “Aktara” is also suitable for juice-sucking insects; for some time it will become poisonous to them.

All plant treatments must be carried out outdoors in calm weather, avoiding direct sunlight. Aspirin or soap solution can be used indoors for pest control. To do this, dissolve one aspirin tablet in 8 liters of water and spray the plant once every 3 weeks. Wipe the leaves with a cotton pad soaked in a soapy solution or spray the entire plant with a spray bottle. It is better to test on one sheet of paper first to see the reaction.

If the royal geranium does not bloom, it is worth taking a closer look to see if there are any insects or fungal infections on it. The affected plant is not able to bloom, since a lot of energy is spent on resisting the disease.

Planting and propagation

Royal geranium is easily propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush and seeds. The most popular method of propagation is by cuttings; sufficient quantities of them are formed after the formation of the bush.

Propagation by seeds is a more complex and lengthy process. It will not be possible to obtain seeds on your own, since all representatives of pelargonium are hybrid forms, their seeds do not retain all the characteristics of the mother plant. It is safer to buy seeds in a store. Plants obtained this way will be stronger and healthier, with a longer flowering period.

The seeds are evenly distributed over loose soil, which must necessarily include sand or perlite (at least half of the total mass of the soil). The soil must be calcined or shed with a solution of potassium permanganate. The seeds are sprinkled with damp sand and slightly buried. The entire container is covered with glass or film, placed in a well-lit place, without direct sunlight, maintaining a temperature of +21...+25°.

When real leaves appear, the seedlings are distributed into individual pots no larger than 10 centimeters in diameter and 14 centimeters in depth, with drainage holes and a layer of expanded clay. After the appearance of the fifth true leaf, the seedlings are pinched. This stimulates branching and allows you to get a more lush bush.

When and how to replant a plant?

Pelargonium can grow in one pot for a long time. Unlike its relatives, zonal geraniums, royal geraniums do not tolerate transplanting into the garden in the summer. The plant may die from frequent changes of location and replanting.

Replanting the plant is required when the pot is completely filled with roots. The new pot should be 1.5 - 2 centimeters larger than the previous one. A very large pot will slow down the growth of the plant and may cause a lack of flowering and even death of the flower. The plant will not form flower stalks until the root system completely fills the entire pot. The best for pelargonium is a shallow and not very wide pot made of unglazed ceramics. You can plant it in a plastic pot, but you will have to be careful about watering.

At the bottom of the pot there must be a good layer of drainage, for which you can use expanded clay or fragments of ceramics. It is recommended to cut and place a circle of cotton fabric on top of the drainage. It will retain small soil particles and prevent them from being quickly washed out. The soil can be purchased at the store: any neutral soil that does not contain moisture-retaining components, such as sphagnum, will do. Dense, heavy soil must be additionally enriched with perlite. The substrate for planting should be loose and moderately nutritious. You can make the soil yourself. To do this you will need peat, sand and leaf humus. Royal pelargonium prefers neutral or slightly alkaline soil; you can add a little ash to the mixture.

The survival rate of the plant depends on the time of year. The optimal time for transplantation is February, March and April. The awakened bush, entering the phase of active growth, easily tolerates transplantation. It will be more difficult for a flower transplanted in the fall to adapt. Unless absolutely necessary, it is better to avoid replanting the plant in summer or winter. During flowering, the resulting stress can lead to the death of the buds and the death of the entire flower.

A plant purchased in a store must be left for two weeks to adapt and undergo quarantine. During this time, the pelargonium will get used to the new conditions, and it will be possible to make sure that the flower is free of diseases and pests. Most plants in the store are sold in the flowering state, so you will need to wait until the flower fades before replanting it.

Replanting begins with abundant moistening of the earth clod, then new pot pour in drainage, and, carefully removing the pelargonium with a lump of earth, place it in a new pot, adding fresh soil. Water generously.

What to do after landing?

Fresh soil is rich in minerals, so the plant does not need feeding. You can water it with the root formation stimulator “Heteroauxin” or the immunostimulant “Epin”. Place the pot on a well-lit windowsill, protecting it from direct sunlight.

Reproduction by cuttings

Propagation by cuttings will quickly produce a young plant. At home, this type of reproduction is available throughout the year. The survival rate of cuttings depends on the type of pelargonium and the time of year. In royal pelargonium, it takes about 4 weeks to form roots, and up to 8 weeks in winter.

The highest percentage of survival rate is for cuttings obtained during spring pruning. Young cuttings obtained in the fall become very elongated and weaken during the winter. In winter it is better to use lighting for them, and pinch them in spring. Cuttings obtained in the fall will begin flowering next year, not earlier than June. Abundant early flowering can be achieved by taking cuttings in April or March. Spring sap flow will speed up all processes of survival and root formation.

A good cutting that can take root and grow into a healthy plant should be at least 5 centimeters in length, with 3 leaves and 2-3 internodes with the leaves removed from the bottom. If the cuttings are taken in the summer during flowering, the inflorescences will have to be removed. The presence of buds and flowers will slow down root formation and weaken the plant.

The selected section of the stem is cut with a sharp, sterile knife. You can use the blade by treating it with alcohol or boiling it for 5 minutes to ensure sterility. Suitable cutting carefully cut, treat the cut with activated carbon. The cuttings are left at room temperature until the cut dries. Can be placed in a glass of water by adding a tablet activated carbon. For reliable fixation, place a piece of cardboard on the glass, in which holes are cut through which the geranium stems are passed. The cutting should be only 1/3 immersed in water. This method of rooting can lead to rotting, so most often the cuttings are immediately planted in separate small pots. Can be used disposable plastic cups with holes made in the base. There must be drainage at the bottom, and the soil must contain sand or vermiculite. The soil is spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate or boiling water for disinfection. Let it sit and cool for at least a day.

Before planting, to speed up root formation, the cuttings are dipped in Kornevin powder. The cuttings are buried 2 centimeters into the ground, taken to a room with low lighting, and left for 5 days. Absence bright lighting will allow the plant to form roots more efficiently and quickly. After this, the plant can be placed on the window. Watering is carried out through a tray so that weak and tender stems do not rot. Optimal temperature during this period +14…+16°.

It happens that some seedlings cannot cope and begin to turn yellow. For such sprouts, you can arrange a mini greenhouse by covering it with a jar. A sign of good health and rooting of the royal geranium is the appearance of new leaves. If the seedlings were planted in transparent plastic cups, then the development of roots can be observed through the walls.

Using a peat tablet

Usage peat tablets will simplify the process of rooting cuttings. The advantage is that you don’t need individual cups and soil. The tablets are placed on a tray and watered generously. First, you can pour boiling water over it to ensure sterility. When the tablets absorb moisture, drain off the excess water. The water must be settled for at least 3 days and contain a root-forming stimulant. For royal pelargonium this is required condition. After cutting, you can dip the cuttings in powder, which stimulates the appearance of roots. Other species can take root without a stimulant.

The cutting is deepened 1/3 in the center of the peat tablet and pressed tightly to remove excess moisture. There is no need to spray or cover the sprouts; it is even contraindicated. The cuttings are placed on the window, protected from direct sunlight. Peat tablets accumulate and retain a lot of moisture, so watering should be very moderate.

When roots appear through the peat cup, the seedlings can be transplanted into pots. The primer is suitable for universal or special purposes; it can be purchased at the store. In a glass you need to do drainage holes, pour expanded clay or perlite onto the bottom. Then add well-moistened soil. Use thin scissors to free the roots of the plant from the walls of the tablet. Leave the places where the roots have grown into the wall of the tablet untouched. Place the plant in a glass and add moist soil. The soil will absorb excess moisture from the lower layers of the pot.

In this form, the plant can grow until it is ready to be planted in a permanent place, or it can be planted directly from a peat tablet into a permanent pot.

Problems during cultivation

Royal pelargonium is perhaps the most beautiful and capricious to care for among all members of the family. Violation of maintenance conditions can lead to stretching of internodes. This makes the plant less decorative and weaker. Most often, the reason lies in lack of lighting and lack of minerals.

The cause of yellowing of the leaf edge is insufficient soil moisture. Overmoistening can lead to general lethargy of the bush and yellowing of the entire leaf blade, as well as to rot, damage by bacteria and fungi.

Many factors influence flowering. Large-flowered pelargonium does not like frequent transplants. It should not be disturbed and replanted more often than once every 3 years. A pot that is too large will result in no flowers. Fallen flower stalks and buds indicate too hot and dry air in the room or the presence of disease.

If all the conditions are met, but the flower refuses to bloom, the reason may be in the soil. Nitrogen-rich soil will lead to lush growth greenery and the formation of a strong bush, but without flowers.

Application in landscape design

Unlike zonal geraniums, royal pelargonium prefers stability. It will not react well to being transplanted into a flowerbed in the summer. The plant will be sick and will most likely be attacked by insects and fungi. In the summer, you can place flowerpots and pots with royal pelargonium outside in a place hidden from direct sunlight. A beautiful subspecies of pelargonium Angel has an interesting feature: in low light it takes on an ampelous shape. It is ideal for vertical gardening and hanging flower pots. In strong enough light, the shape of this miniature plant becomes erect, like in zonal species. Pelargonium in flowerpots is a wonderful decoration for balconies and terraces.