Are you planning to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? You can understand: this is a reliable and economical material, allowing you to bring into reality the most non-trivial design idea. In order for it not to work out, as in the immortal statement of Viktor Chernomyrdin - “We wanted the best, but it turned out as always” - it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions, which cover in detail all the stages of work for finishing the ceiling surface.
For convenience and clarity, we have provided it with 47 photos, so you will not have any difficulties understanding the material.
Preparing the premises
- remove all large objects and furniture that could potentially interfere with work and movement during the installation process;
- if it is impossible to carry out the first step, cover the furniture with film to protect it from construction debris, adhesive composition and dust;
- clean the ceiling of everything unnecessary: dust, small knots and everything that you are unlikely to get to in the foreseeable future after installation.
Tool preparation
How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, so that later you don’t have to regret the crooked fit of the sheets and poorly organized lighting? That’s right, the key to successful installation is proper marking and necessary tools at hand.
First, let's list everything you need to implement correct marking premises:
- roulette;
- level;
- pencil;
- painting cord.
Now let's touch compulsory recruitment directly required construction tools:
- hacksaw;
- perforator;
- screwdriver;
- scissors.
As you can see, you don’t need anything out of the ordinary to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. A standard set of tools that can be purchased at any construction supermarket.
The only thing that can be added to this list, modest in every sense, is protective glasses. Still, some steps in our step-by-step instructions include operations that could potentially harm your eyes.
Compliance with safety regulations- this is the basis for performing any type of repair work, so take this recommendation seriously.
Preparation of material
In accordance with how you see your future gypsum board ceiling, prepare plasterboard sheets of the required size. Calculating the total area of the room is quite easy: the length is multiplied by the width, and the exact size of the pieces of material directly depends on the format plasterboard construction, which you want to see in your room.
You will also need:
- ceiling guide profiles UD;
- ceiling main profiles CD;
- direct universal hangers or any others in accordance with the layout;
- self-tapping screws;
- dowels
It should be remembered that UD profiles are attached to the wall along the perimeter, and CDs are inserted into them longitudinally with the required step according to the size of the plasterboard fragments.
Cost table
In order for you to have a rough idea of future expenses and be able to prudently adjust your budget, we offer you a small table that shows the average current prices for the materials used for finishing the ceiling with plasterboard.
| Name | Vacation unit | Price |
| self-tapping screws | packaging (200 pcs.) | from 120 rubles |
| gypsum board sheets | sheet(3 m2) | from 250 rubles |
| UD profile | PC. | from 40 rubles |
| CD profile | PC. | from 45 rubles |
| ceiling hangers | PC. | from 4 rubles |
| dowels | packaging (200 pcs.) | from 125 rubles |
Marking
A very simple, but quite important step, the correct execution of which determines the final result:
- we find the lower corner point on the concrete base of the ceiling;
- we make the necessary indentation, guided by practical considerations: how the lamps will be mounted, how many levels there will be in the final structure. Remember that there must be a certain margin of a few centimeters, otherwise making a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands will turn out to be very rough and unattractive;
- We put a mark using a level; if you have a hydraulic level at hand, then the problem of evenly transferring this line to the entire plane can be considered solved. If not, then you will have to use the painting cord we mentioned;
- We connect all the marks using this cord, achieving a perfectly straight line.
The final marking touch is to apply the so-called mesh, which will serve as a guide for the installation of prepared hangers. Observe the step between the lines, it is approximately equal to 50 cm.
This is what you should end up with.
If you see approximately the same thing on your ceiling, then congratulations: you have successfully completed the first stage of our step-by-step instructions.
Frame
If the markings are done correctly, then constructing the frame should not cause you any particular difficulties:
- start from the perimeter, securing the prepared UD wall profile at a given step (up to 60 centimeters);
- proceed to fixing the hangers - use dowels for this, and again the prepared hangers should be placed at the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse lines marked on concrete base mesh ceiling (see previous paragraph);
- prepare mortgages from bars for the chandelier, if one will be used indoors, and also run wires to the places where you plan to install spots and other types of lighting fixtures;
- insert the longitudinal CD profile into the grooves of the wall one and secure it with self-tapping screws. You should have them on hand, right?
If you didn’t know how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, but followed the suggested step-by-step instructions, then half the way has already been safely completed. The creation of the frame is crowned by the installation of what is called battens , on which the plasterboard sheets will be attached.
Sheathing with plasterboard
Probably the most basic and uncomplicated step when installing drywall, which, however, will require help in the form of a couple of extra hands.
In order to speed up or even simplify finishing the ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands, use the help of your friends to fix the sheets on the ceiling. The fact is that you are unlikely to be able to secure sheets of drywall with self-tapping screws alone.
- start from one wall, systematically moving towards the opposite;
- installation of the last fragment is carried out by cutting the sheet in accordance with your measurements;
- lay the fragments in a joint, eliminating the appearance of any gaps or irregularities. If we're talking about about the last sheet, experienced experts still recommend leaving a small gap in this case.
Finishing
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands logically approached the post-processing of an already assembled surface. However, in terms of the number of micro-operations, this stage confidently pushes back all the previous ones:
- puttying joints and gaps;
- surface primer;
- decorative finishing.
The choice of implementation of the latter is solely on your conscience. Usually, to make a plasterboard ceiling more expressive, they use beautiful wallpaper, application decorative plaster, painting the ceiling base water-based paint. When choosing this or that solution, make a discount on functional purpose premises.
It goes without saying that for the kitchen or bathroom, where high humidity and temperature changes are not uncommon, it is best to choose the most practical type of finishing over drywall - painting with a reliable water-based emulsion.
Conclusion
Are you thinking about how to construct a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? For knowledgeable person It is not difficult to implement such an idea, and for a beginner it is a completely solvable task. This great way to save money and acquire an important skill if you are doing this for the first time. Having mastered the ceiling, it will not be difficult for you to make slopes, piers, and cover the walls with this material. Drywall is very popular; almost no repair is complete without its use. And there are a number of reasons for this.
- Drywall, a sheet of which consists of gypsum lined with cardboard, is absolutely environmentally friendly. It does not release toxins and is non-allergenic. Therefore, ceilings are made from it in bedrooms, children's rooms and any other residential premises.
- Its surface is smooth, even and without cracks. Perfect for both painting and wallpapering.
- Good sound absorption, thermal insulation qualities.
- Possibility of creating original design ceiling, for example, the construction of a multi-level structure using stucco.
- Plasticity (sheets can be bent by first moistening and then drying warm air, use for finishing curved surfaces).
- Helps hide communications ( ventilation ducts, water pipes, various cables), use built-in types of lamps.
So, having assessed all the advantages, you decided to equip a suspended ceiling using this finishing material. The next step is to choose its specific variety.
Types of drywall, their properties
- GKL is a plasterboard sheet, lined on both sides with soft cardboard glued to the surface of the gypsum. The standard length of such sheets can be 2000, 2500, 2600, 2750, or 3000 mm, and the width is 1200 mm. They come in thicknesses of 12.5 and 9.5 mm. For residential premises it is better to use 9.5 to lighten the weight of the structure. Finished with gray cardboard.
- GKLO is a fire-resistant plasterboard sheet. It is usually not used in apartments, but only in factories, for finishing air ducts and communication shafts.
- GKLV - waterproof plasterboard sheet. Used in bathrooms and kitchens, toilets, but only if there is exhaust ventilation and front surface protection waterproofing compounds, ceramic tiles, waterproof paints, primers or ceramic tiles. Finished with green cardboard.
- GKLVO is a moisture-resistant plasterboard sheet with increased fire resistance. Combines the properties of all of the above.
- GVL - gypsum fiber sheets. They are not covered with cardboard. Gypsum is reinforced with special fluffed cellulose waste paper. Such sheets have increased hardness and resistance to flame. They match standard sizes regular sheet, but their thickness is greater - 6 or 10 mm.
- GVLV - moisture-resistant gypsum fiber sheets.
Installation and installation of a suspended ceiling
This is a design of 4 main elements:
1. Sheets of drywall.
Sheets moisture-resistant plasterboard
2. Ceiling guide profiles UD (28-27 mm) and ceiling profiles main CD (60x27 mm). Guides - are attached to the wall just below the ceiling level along the entire perimeter of the room. The main supporting profiles (longitudinal) are already inserted into them. Between them are the main secondary (transverse) profiles. Drywall sheets are attached to these profiles (both longitudinal and transverse). They can be recognized by their C-shaped curved edges, longitudinal corrugations and stiffening ribs.
Connection of the main ceiling profile and the wall guide
3. Straight (universal) hangers and with a clamp. Most often, straight universal U-shaped suspensions are used, which are attached to the main ceiling, and the main profiles are already attached to them. The pendants have frequent holes in the sides. This allows you to screw the profile to them at different heights, adjusting it.
Location of hangers on base ceiling
4. Connecting elements: anchors and dowels, with the help of which suspensions are attached to the ceiling, crab fasteners - fasten the main longitudinal profiles to the main transverse profiles, dowels, attaching guide profiles to the wall.
Typically, frames consisting of suspended profiles are divided into two types: single-level and multi-level.
The ceilings are made of plasterboard, respectively.
To install a plasterboard ceiling you will need the following tools:
- Level (preferably water)
- Roulette
- Drill with a hammer drill with various attachments: for mixing the solution, for drilling (drill), for cutting out the necessary holes for lamps)
- Screwdriver
- Simple triangle or square (to measure right angles)
- Painting cord or pencil
- Construction hacksaw
- fishing line
- Plane
- Ceiling spotlight
For the final stage of leveling the ceiling you will need:
- Sandpaper
- Putty knife
- putty
- Construction knife
- Container for putty
- Reinforcing tape
How to make a plasterboard ceiling: step-by-step instructions
After all materials, tools and components are prepared, you can begin installation.
1. First, we determine how much lower the new suspended ceiling will be than the base one. A minimum of 10 cm will have to be sacrificed, because a standard built-in lamp will be 9 cm in height.
2. We make markings on the walls around the entire perimeter for attaching guide profiles. For these purposes, we measure the height of the room in all corners. Having chosen the lowest angle, mark the required distance from the floor (exactly from the floor, but not from the ceiling), mark the horizontal along the entire wall, using a water level. The lines can be marked with a paint cord at the points marked by the level.
3. Along the wall lines, we drill holes for the dowels in the wall in increments of 30-40 ms, then screw the guide profiles.
4. Now we attach the suspensions to the ceiling in increments of 60-70 cm, having previously outlined parallel straight lines, i.e. making markings to serve as a guide.
5. Insert the main profiles into the guides.
Frame of plasterboard ceiling: main profiles are inserted into guides and connected to hangers
6. We attach the main profiles to the hangers, then bend them. For evenness, it is advisable to tighten the fishing line or cord.
7. We attach the main secondary profiles to the main profiles. They are attached in places where it is planned to join sheets of drywall. The result is a kind of metal lattice, which is a single-level frame.
8. Lay the wires for future wiring. Don't forget to cut grooves through which the cable will pass. The grooves should be located in the wall from the switch to the ceiling. After running the cable, make the wiring in the ceiling, release the free ends for the lamps in pre-designated places.
9. The next stage is attaching drywall to the frame.
Fastening the material to the frame
After metal carcass constructed, it is necessary to attach plasterboard sheets to it. This is not an easy procedure, the implementation of which will be divided into several stages:
Attaching a sheet of drywall to a metal frame: controlling horizontal lines using a spirit level
1. Cut using a hacksaw - a special one, with fine teeth(or regular stationery knife). It is best to cut sheets 120x250 or 120x125 cm. The main thing is that the ends of the sheet fit exactly on the supporting frame laths. The sheets should lie horizontally on a flat surface (preferably a table). Next, run a knife along the level along the drywall from the front side. Then slide the sheet off the table and break it. Then turn it over and cut the cardboard on the other side.
2. The edge formed after the cut is processed with a plane. It should turn out smooth, without kinks. All protruding edges are trimmed sharp knife.
3. Cut holes for recessed lights and ceiling sockets. They should be carefully measured, determining the exact location on the sheet, then marked, and then cut out using a drill with the required attachment or hacksaw. If pipes will pass through the drywall, then the diameter of the hole must be > 10 times the diameter of the pipe.
4. Finish the ceiling with plasterboard. Plasterboard slabs can be attached to frames in two ways: longitudinal and transverse. When mounted transversely, they are located perpendicular to the main load-bearing structures. metal profiles. When longitudinal - parallel to the main supporting profiles. If there are additional laths, then the sheets must be fastened from their corner in two perpendicular directions. If there are no additional laths, then fastening is carried out from the end of the sheet or from its center. Self-tapping screws are installed 10-15 mm from the edge of the sheets. The screws are installed from the front surface of the sheet perpendicularly and to such a depth that their heads cannot pierce the cardboard and do not protrude above the front surface. They must also fit into a metal frame > 10mm deep. The length of the screws is selected based on the total thickness of the planned plasterboard sheathing. Maximum permissible distance from one screw to another – 150 mm. This value can be doubled if the slabs are covered multiple times. Screws in the guide profile should be installed closer to it back wall, then the screw will not be able to bend the profile flange inward. The cardboard should not be disheveled in the places where the screws will be attached. If the screws are deformed or were placed by mistake, they are removed and new ones are installed at a distance< 50 мм от неудачного места крепления.
Important! The joints of the sheets must be located on the profile!
Plasterboard boards do not need to be placed flush against the walls. It is better not to putty the gap, but to cover it with a ceiling corner. Then, in case of expansion of the slabs, it will be possible to avoid deformation of the ceiling. When directly attaching the slabs to the ceiling, you need to work together, or use supports.
The plates should be placed horizontally, adjusted to each other and screwed to the frame with screws.
Important! Before installation, drywall must not< 2-х суток вылежаться в помещении, в котором он будет монтирован. Тогда он приобретет влажность и температуру помещения.
5. Puttying joints. Don't putty right away. Wait 2 days. Then inspect the joints for defects and eliminate them. Clean the surface from particles and dust. It is better to use reinforcing tape, placing it at all joints. It prevents cracking. If you use an expensive, high-quality putty, then it is enough to treat only the joints (and then paint it over the fiberglass with a spray gun), if it’s cheap, then you should putty the entire ceiling, and then paint it with a roller. Sequencing:
- clean the edges of the seam, moisten them, fill the seams with putty, pressing it in with a spatula;
- Having applied the main layer of putty, lay the reinforcing tape, pressing it in with a spatula. Do not leave any air bubbles. Cover the surface of the tape thin layer putty and wait for complete drying;
- sand the joints sandpaper;
- apply a layer of putty to the previously dried layer;
- apply another leveling layer of putty and let dry;
— Remove uneven surfaces with sandpaper.
Second level ceiling installation
Installation of the second level of plasterboard ceiling: construction of a figured frame
- Plan in advance, make a drawing of the design, mark it on the ceiling.
- Remove the height of the second from the first ceiling level.
- We attach the guide profile.
- We install the main guides of the second level to the main guides and stiffeners of the first.
- We bend the profile for the required radius sections.
- We route the wires for the lamps.
- Cutting out the slab the desired shape and fasten it, as on the first level.
- We cut out a strip of drywall and close the box.
- We install lamps.
- Plastering.
If you strictly follow the above instructions, then there will be no questions left about how to attach drywall to the ceiling. You can do everything thoughtfully and accurately. All you have to do is be patient, put in some effort, and you can end up with an excellent DIY ceiling design.
Most builders note that when renovating an apartment or house, one of the most difficult processes is how to make a ceiling from plaster or any other material.
The unevenness of various tiled floors, the fact that the angles almost never correspond to each other, and many other details hinder the quick completion of work. It is quite difficult to hide all these shortcomings today. And it’s not so much difficult as it is expensive.
This article will discuss step-by-step instruction for installing a plasterboard ceiling, which has a huge number of advantages, ranging from ease of installation to reasonable prices.
What tools will you need?
If you are thinking about how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then first of all you should do various preparatory work for the main process, namely: it is important to purchase the necessary quick installation ceiling building materials, and prepare all the tools.
To install yourself two-level ceiling from plasterboard you will need:
- A water-type level in order to accurately mark the place where the guide level will be installed.
- For quick drilling various holes any hammer drill.
- Scissors that can be used to cut metal.
- "Bulgarian".
- Screwdriver for fastening gypsum boards, as well as profiles.
- Roll
Frame installation
The first thing to do is to choose a place for future marking of the place where the guide profile will be installed. Marks should be applied after the water in all containers is at the same level.
Exactly how much to retreat from construction ceiling Centimeters are up to you to decide, but most builders suggest looking at a photo of a plasterboard ceiling to understand that the distance should not be less than ten centimeters.
After completing the first stage of work, that is, after markings have been made on each wall, you can proceed to drilling several holes for dowels. A hammer drill is used for this.
After completing the installation of the guide profile, using the prepared tape measure, you need to make marks right along the perimeter with an average interval of approximately 60 cm.
If you want to do enough simple design, consisting of only one level, then there is no need to install popular C-shaped profiles in two directions at once. It is enough to mark only on two opposite sides.
After this, you can proceed to attaching the suspension. After completing the installation of all direct hangers, you can proceed to installing the ceiling profile and then covering the ceiling with sheets.
Ceiling decoration
Today we offer a huge number of the most in various ways ceiling decoration. Thanks to active development construction industry in stores you can find many different decorative materials which will allow you to decorate the ceiling.
Everything will depend solely on taste preferences and financial capabilities. Some people prefer plaster modeling, while others are delighted with foam moldings.
You should not pay attention to various fashion trends, since they quickly pass, but you will definitely have to live with a new renovation for more than one or two years.
It is important that the ceiling gives you exceptional joy from looking at it and creates a feeling of comfort in the room.
Once you have decided what your ideal ceiling looks like after renovation, it is important to evaluate whether you can afford it. financially, and if the answer is yes, then you can safely go to the store building materials and choose something that will quickly make your dreams of an ideal ceiling come true.
There is nothing difficult in the technology of creating suspended ceilings using drywall.
You just need to remember that before doing anything, you need to think several times, since such a ceiling is not set for a year or even for five years.
Note!
Photo of a plasterboard ceiling
Note!
A suspended ceiling made of plasterboard allows you to hide all the unevenness of the floor slabs and passing communications. GCR can be easily cut and even bent, which simplifies installation ceiling structure with your own hands. A single-level ceiling is considered simpler to manufacture. If you need to visually enlarge the room or divide it into work areas, you will have to resort to installing a multi-level structure.
Before starting work, you need to prepare tools and materials.
Tools you will need:
Materials you will need:
In addition to standard and moisture-resistant plasterboard, there are gypsum fiber sheets, as well as moisture- and fire-resistant plasterboard. To make a suspended ceiling in dry rooms, standard plasterboard is suitable. In rooms with increased level humidity, for example, a bathroom or kitchen, you need to use moisture-resistant gypsum board. Other types of plasterboard for home suspended ceilings are rarely used.
Manufacturing a single-level suspended ceiling
The easiest way for an inexperienced person to make his own is a single-level ceiling.
There are several advantages of this design:
- In case of subsidence of the foundation of the house, appearance the single-level ceiling will remain unchanged;
- Suspended structures take up a lot of space. In this regard, the single-level model outperforms multi-level ceiling;
- Easy to install and less costs for the purchase of materials determines the main advantage of a single-level design over a multi-level analogue.
The only disadvantages include the impossibility of zoning the room, but this can be easily corrected by a combination of different lighting fixtures.
Preparatory work and marking
Installation of the suspended ceiling frame begins before finishing walls, but at this stage they should already be perfectly aligned. If there is a ceiling old finish, it is completely removed, and all lighting fixtures are also removed.
Marking for the frame begins from the walls where the starting profile will be installed. Using a tape measure, take measurements from floor to ceiling in all four corners of the room, as well as in the center of each wall. The starting point for marking is the lowest corner of the room. If suspended structure assumed with built-in lighting fixtures, a distance of 90–100 mm is marked from the ceiling to the mounting point of the starting profile. The absence of built-in devices allows you to reduce the distance to 50 mm.
The following marks are placed in two opposite corners of the room from the starting marking point. Now these points must be connected by lines, and they must be strictly parallel to the floor. So, at this stage there are two walls with marking line for attaching the starting profile. The last point is placed in the fourth corner of the room, drawing lines from it to two opposite corners.
On all four walls, the markings for the starting profile are ready and it’s time to draw the grid for attaching the ceiling profile. 
The first to mark the attachment lines of the longitudinal guide profile. The distance between the lines depends on the location of the gypsum board sheets. If longitudinal fastening of drywall is provided, then the pitch between the profiles is maintained at 400 mm. When laying sheets transversely, the pitch is increased to 600 mm.
The last to mark are the transverse lines. Here a pitch of 500 mm is maintained. At the intersection of longitudinal and transverse lines, mark holes for attaching hangers.
The video talks about marking a single-level ceiling:
To ensure a perfectly flat ceiling, it is best to use a laser level when marking and making the frame.
Assembling a frame from a profile
The markings are ready, it’s time to connect the frame elements. 
When performing frame installation work, adhere to the following sequence:
If everything is fine with the frame, you can start covering it with plasterboard.
The video shows a simplified method for installing a frame in a large room:
Making a multi-level suspended ceiling
The load-bearing base of the multi-level ceiling is the frame of the first-level suspended ceiling we have already discussed. All subsequent levels of the protruding structure have a smaller area relative to the previous tier. If we take, for example, a three-level ceiling, then the third tier will be the smallest in size, and its load-bearing base will be the frame of the second tier.
The advantage of a multi-level ceiling is more justified from the design side. Various changes and shapes made on the ceiling change the geometry of the room. Designers thus zone the room, create the illusion of increased space, and combine lighting in different areas of the room with built-in lighting fixtures.
Among the disadvantages of a multi-level ceiling are the complexity of installing the frame, high costs for materials, as well as the large weight of the finished structure.
Marking and making a frame
So, the first level is already ready, now it’s time to build the second tier. Let's look at an example with a box. It is usually made up to 500 mm wide, and the height depends on the design project.
The manufacturing process of the second tier consists of the following steps:
After connecting all the elements, the second-level frame is considered ready. All subsequent tiers are made using similar technology.
The video shows how to assemble the second tier of the ceiling:
Covering the frame with plasterboard
Fastening of drywall begins after installation of all communications and distribution of electrical wiring. The sheets are cut out on the floor and, if necessary, holes are cut out with a crown for recessed lamps. GCR is quite fragile, and it is better to lift large fragments to a height with an assistant. 
The sheets are screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 100–150 mm. A gap of about 2 mm is left between the joints, and the ends of the drywall themselves are cut with a plane at an angle of 45 degrees. Once all the gypsum plasterboard fragments are attached, the joints are sealed using reinforcing mesh and putty, and the screw heads are simply covered with the same solution. Edges of internal and external corners structures are protected with metal perforated corners.
The suspended ceiling is ready. Now all that remains is to putty it, sand it and it can be painted or wallpapered. As you can see, you can make a plasterboard structure with your own hands, you just need to make every effort.
In the process of creating a functional modern interior installation of a plasterboard ceiling plays a special role. Simple, but at the same time aesthetic and practical design, allows you to significantly reduce the time of work, mask surface defects, and hide communications. You can install the ceiling yourself, following the installation technology.
The basis of a plasterboard structure - what is included?
Before you begin installing a plasterboard ceiling, you need to prepare the basic materials.
Considering that the structure consists of a frame finished with plasterboard sheets, for its construction you will need:
- metal profiles;
- fastening elements;
- plasterboard slabs;
- finishing materials.
Metal profiles are the basis of the structure. These must be quality elements made of galvanized metal in two versions: guides and ceiling carriers. To connect the profiles, a straight U-shaped suspension is used, two types of connectors are used: straight and cross-shaped. In addition, to assemble a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands you will need galvanized connecting screws and dowels.
The frame is finished using plasterboard ceiling sheets with optimal parameters: length - 2.5 meters and width - 1.2 meters. The thickness of the sheets ranges from 8 to 9.5 mm.
Classic ceiling plasterboard painted in grey colour. By color and thickness it can be distinguished from wall sheets, which are usually thicker. In rooms with high moisture or risk of fire, special sheets of plasterboard labeled “moisture resistant” or “fire resistant” are used.
Calculation of materials for the ceiling - how to do it correctly
In order for the installation of plasterboard on the ceiling to go as smoothly as possible and without interruptions during the work process, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of material needed to create the structure. To do this, first calculate the ceiling area in a standard way- multiplying the width by the length of the room (measured with a tape measure).
To calculate required amount guide profile, you need to find the perimeter of the room. To do this, add up the lengths of the walls. At this stage, it is important to measure each of the walls separately in order to eliminate possible errors in the calculation process required quantity profile, since the lengths are not always the same.
To calculate how much material installation of the profile will require load-bearing type, just remember that the first and last elements are mounted at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, when the distance between the remaining profiles is no more than 60 cm. The number of supporting profiles is found by multiplying the number of rows by the length of the ceiling.
The supporting profile is secured with U-shaped straight hangers in increments of one meter. It is easy to determine the required number of hangers by dividing the total length of the profile by one meter.
To increase the rigidity of the frame between the guides and the supporting profiles, special jumpers will be required in increments of 60 cm. The number of cross-shaped connectors for the jumpers is found by dividing the length of the supporting profile by the fastening pitch. As for the second type of connectors - straight ones, their number is calculated taking into account the length of the room, since the elements are fastened along the length of the profiles.
The last stage is fastening plasterboard sheets also requires accurate preliminary calculations. To finish the frame of the ceiling structure, you will need exactly the number of slabs that is equal to the area of the ceiling. Compensation consumption is also taken into account, adding from 3% to 5% of the material to the total amount.
Marking is a responsible start to work
Regardless of the complexity of the design, First stage- this is always marking. Only after marking has been carried out can we assume that the technology for installing drywall on a pre-arranged frame has been fully complied with.
Start by determining the lowest point of the ceiling surface horizontally. The easiest way to do this is with laser level or, in the absence of one, an ordinary water one. A mark is placed in a certain place - this will be the height of the plasterboard ceiling. It is important that it is at least 3 centimeters below the lowest side of the base. This will be the bottom part of the guide profile. In the case of a planned illuminated ceiling, the line is lowered a few centimeters lower.
Do the same with the remaining walls. A corresponding mark is placed on each of them, again using a level for reliability. It is important to ensure that there are no air bubbles inside the level during measurements.
The final stage of marking is connecting the marked points using a tapping thread into a continuous line and marking the lines for attaching the suspensions on the ceiling surface in increments of 0.6 m.
The main stage of the process is assembling the frame
There is nothing difficult about assembling the frame with your own hands if you follow the step-by-step instructions.
They begin by installing the guide profile along the intended line around the perimeter of the room. Fix U-shaped suspensions on the ceiling surface. The supporting profiles are cut (1 cm shorter) and secured in the guides according to the markings, further strengthening the structure with self-tapping screws.
At the next stage, the hangers are bent and attached to the profile, tensioning the thread to avoid sagging of the load-bearing elements.
As soon as longitudinal elements will be finally fixed, cut the crossbars and fix them with the help of crabs.
The classic profile installation scheme involves placing the joints of the gypsum boards in the middle of the profile, which can only be achieved if there are a number of crossbars at a distance of 2.5 meters from the wall, which acts as a starting point for installing the gypsum boards.
Plasterboard finishing - the final stage
Drywall sheets are attached to the finished frame with self-tapping screws. It is more convenient to attach sheets without preliminary cutting, thus reducing the number of joints and seams. To properly install drywall, you need to measure its quantity in advance and prepare sheets on a horizontal surface. The more carefully the installation is carried out with the heads of the screws recessed into the surface of the gypsum board, the smoother the finished ceiling will be. 
An important step is filling the joints and seams between the sheets. A responsible approach at this stage will prevent the appearance of cracks on the ceiling during operation. To securely fix the seams, use reinforcing tape, on top of which a layer of putty mixture with leveling properties is applied. As soon as the surface has dried, it is further leveled with sandpaper.
In places of contact with the wall, installation of gypsum boards is carried out using sealing tape. Fasten it before the sheets are fixed. Remove the tape only after filling the gaps with putty mixture. The finished ceiling is primed, treated with putty, sanded, re-primed and only then painted. 
How to install a curved ceiling
The classic installation of ceiling plasterboard on a frame under a curved ceiling is somewhat different from the previous installation option. In order to install a non-standard design, follow the following algorithm:
- Install the first tier of the frame traditional way, as required by the instructions above.
- Mark guide profiles around the perimeter of the room.
- PNx28×27 profiles are installed along the marking line, fixing them with self-tapping screws and dowels.
- The carriers are fixed into pre-installed profiles using hangers and in increments of 600 mm.
- In areas where a curved profile passes, the pitch is reduced to 400 mm.
- Sheets of plasterboard are attached to the finished frame so that they extend beyond 10 cm onto the curved line of the ceiling bend.
- The sheets are fastened with a pitch of no more than 250 mm.
- After finishing the first level, a wave line is drawn.
- At a distance equal to the thickness of the sheets, a curved profile is attached to the mark (use metal scissors to cut the sides).
- Attract the profile through the gypsum board to the main frame.
- Any technology from the manufacturer further implies the production of a second-level frame. The more levels are planned, the smaller the gypsum fastening step should be.
- The finished frame is hemmed with plasterboard with a margin of a centimeter for further work with bending.
- Taking into account the direction of the bend, a lower profile is attached that corresponds to the location of the line of the upper one.
- The upper and lower parts of the curved frame are tied with profile posts and finished with plasterboard in vertical plane. For curved areas, a sheet with a thickness of 6.5 mm is suitable.
The final stage of installation of plasterboard sheets is completed plastic corners, designed to mask the protruding outer corners of the arches. The joints are treated with reinforcing tape and puttied. The surface of the finished ceiling, just as in the case of its classic version, is primed, treated with putty, sanded and painted.
Features of installing a curved ceiling: what is useful to know
Considering that we are talking about not really standard solution for a plasterboard ceiling, you need to consider several important points.
First, a higher level is attached to the frame, which subsequently acts as a supporting base for the curved profiles of the next level frame.
Secondly, the curved element is attached through the already hemmed plasterboard sheet to the underlying base frame. If there is no profile in the area where the metal arc is fixed behind the sheet, then you will need to additionally place a gasket under it to screw in the fasteners, otherwise the sheet may not withstand the load. Scraps of fiberboard, profile or plywood are suitable for the role of gasket.
Thirdly, the profile can be bent in two ways: wet and dry. The first option is suitable for small bend radii, the second will allow for smooth transitions. 
Fourthly, the type of plasterboard sheets is of great importance. You need to understand that installation of gvl suitable for installing ceilings in in public places with increased load, not suitable for a curved ceiling. To achieve the correct bends of the material, it is better to use sheets with a minimum thickness, additionally piercing the surface with a needle roller.
