Installation of a metal profile frame on a wall, necessary tips. Features of constructing a frame for plasterboard for walls and ceilings How to assemble a frame for plasterboard

The use of drywall is one of the most effective ways leveling rough surfaces and constructing non-load-bearing partitions. The easy-to-install material levels any type of surface and helps create structures of any complexity. But to work with drywall, you need knowledge of making a frame from a profile and covering it with gypsum board.

The complex of works with plasterboard involves two stages - manufacturing the frame of the future structure, fastening and covering it.

A frame made of metal profiles is preferable to wood, as it is strong and durable, does not corrode and is easy to install. You can assemble the frame yourself or purchase a ready-made kit in disassembled form. The metal profile is easy, quick and convenient to assemble. Its flexibility and strength make it possible to create the most fancy shapes arches, ceilings, niches. Manufacturers of galvanized profiles have developed different types and sizes for various options facings. There are guide and connection profile. The first has a smooth edge, allowing one fragment to be inserted into another; the connecting edge is curved for complete rigidity of the assembly.

Algorithm for assembling high-quality metal frame for installing drywall, a certain sequence is provided:

For maximum fit the dimensions of the future frame are first taken from the base surface of the walls or ceiling. If you plan to completely cover the room, the construction of the frame begins from the ceiling, since the non-ideal geometry of the corners will make it difficult ceiling mounting after wall covering.
Marking the ceiling for the frame begins from the highest point (or depression). If there are windows, marking the walls begins with window openings.
At this stage it is already possible to calculate the number of plasterboards and profiles. To make a frame with your own hands, you need to purchase 2 types of profiles - rack-mount and guides. The latter type creates the basis of the structure into which a rack-mount metal profile is inserted. The joining points are secured with hardware.
To make the frame rigid, the rack profile is fixed at a certain distance, in increments of 60 cm.

When finishing walls, first one wall is completely prepared(frame, fastening, covering) and only after that move on to the next surface. When marking walls, their curvature is also taken into account.
The frame should be 10 cm from the base surface, if sound and heat insulation is laid between the gypsum board and the rough wall. Engineering communications are also located in this gap.
To assemble a high-quality frame from a profile, use small self-tapping screws with a drill (bugs). The presence of a screw makes it possible to make holes in the metal profile. This type of connection can creak when the room shrinks, so the connection points are secured with sealant.
Professionals cut a profile with a grinder, but its thickness allows you to get by with metal scissors.
A metal frame made from a profile for plasterboard is convenient for creating not only rectilinear structures. To create an arch or a figured two-tier ceiling, prepare a profile of a certain length and cut the side ribs in 5cm increments. Now you can bend it without the risk of damage and secure it to the base with self-tapping screws.

You can see the entire process of manufacturing and installing a metal profile frame in the video clip.

Frame made of metal profiles for plasterboard (video)

Facing

A frame made of metal profile sheathe plasterboard sheets, this job requires some preparation.

Firstly, before cladding, all communications must be correctly positioned inside the frame. Safety precautions electrical cable isolated and secured without contact with metal parts. It is especially necessary to control the installation of spotlights in this regard. The reserve length of the wire should be within 10-15 cm from the plasterboard. Other communications that require constant access for control, it is better not to sew up the gypsum board at all, because it can be disassembled new wall difficult to repair them.

In any case, before covering it is necessary to check the operation of all systems that are supposed to be hidden.

If you have decided on the quantity, you need to select the type of drywall that corresponds to the purpose of the room where the renovation is being carried out. There are ordinary wall, fire-resistant, moisture-resistant and combined materials. The first is used in rooms with normal temperature and humidity.

And for the ceiling it’s normal gray sheet plasterboard will be thinner - 9.5 mm, while for slopes, niches, walls - 12.5 mm, for arches and other patterns - 6.5 mm.

Second type Pink colour, is necessary in rooms with increased fire hazard. The third option, green shades, is used in the kitchen, in the bathroom - rooms where the temperature and humidity are higher. There are also combined types that combine all the protective characteristics.

The cladding sequence is simple:

The gypsum board is leaned against the fixed profile, arranging the sheets vertically or horizontally in accordance with the position of the frame. Then they are fixed with a screwdriver and metal screws.
The seams and joints between the plates are glued with serpyanka (construction mesh) and putty.
The finishing side is treated with impregnation and finishing (wallpapering, painting, tiling).

Fix plasterboard sheets in increments of 25 mm, this will create robust construction and compact the finishing layer. You should not screw in the screws more often - you can damage the panel. The screws are screwed in so that the cap is slightly recessed without tearing the edges of the drywall into the fringe. This fastening can be easily masked with putty.

Puttying is a mandatory stage of cladding, regardless of the type finishing material. To hang wallpaper, you can limit yourself to puttying the joints and places where the screws are attached so that red spots do not appear on the surface of the paper. When painting it is required full putty GKL.

Surface preparation

Drywall needs decorative finishing, since he does not possess such qualities. The easiest way is coloring water-based paint in any color suitable for the interior. The surface must be puttied in two layers. The starting mixture is coarser, the finishing mixture is fine-grained. After each layer has dried, the surface is cleaned with sanding paper or a grout mesh. This treatment involves the presence of a large amount of harmful dust.

In addition to the fact that you need to work with glasses, closed clothing, a hat, gloves and a respirator, the surface must be cleaned (with a broom or construction vacuum cleaner) and coat with a special impregnation.

In addition to final cleaning of the surface, this solution will improve the adhesion of the putty layers.

Subtleties when working

All impregnating solutions must dry for 12 hours or more, then you can apply the next layer of putty, which also requires sanding and impregnation. Without experience, such work is performed in 3-4 approaches.

After complete drying of this treatment, you can proceed to decorative cladding. The sheets are also painted in several layers after the previous one has completely dried.

If you plan to hang a massive chandelier from the ceiling in a room, mount a picture or some kind of device on the wall, these nuances must be taken into account at the stage of installing the frame, reinforcing it in the marked places. In any case, after installing the frame, it is worth sketching the location of the profile grid in order to later use this diagram when hanging shelves, flowerpots, etc.

If you understand the installation principle and first assemble a simple partition from gypsum plasterboard, then with this skill in further repairs you can take on larger projects: a two-level ceiling, decorative niches, arched openings.

Installation of a frame for a two-level plasterboard ceiling (video)

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 8 minutes

When renovating apartments and private houses, various plasterboard structures have become widespread. With the help of this available material you can level walls and ceilings, hide communications in boxes, erect partitions, modify doorways, create niches and shelves that decorate the interior of the room. The quality of the repair will largely depend on how correctly the drywall frame is installed. Therefore, he should be given the closest attention.

Materials

In the vast majority of cases, preference is given to a frame made of a metal profile. Compared to lathing made of wooden beams, it has many advantages: durability, resistance to impact external environment, durability, low waste. To install the metal frame, use the following:

Guide (starting). It is divided into ceiling (marked PNP or UD) and wall or partition (PN or UW).
Bearing (main, rack-mount). For the construction of vertical posts and horizontal lintels, a wall metal profile for partitions (PS or CW), as well as a ceiling profile (PP or CD), are used.
Corner (perforated corner). With its help, they strengthen internal and external corners structures from gypsum plasterboard.
Flexible arched profile (PA). Used when installing arches and other curved structures. However, it can be successfully replaced with a guide by making cuts on the side shelves at certain intervals. This will allow you to easily give it the desired bending radius. The smaller it is, the more often cuts need to be made.

Before installation, various fasteners are purchased in the required quantities:

Direct hangers. Useful for leveling walls and ceilings.
Dowel-nails. With their help, frame elements are attached to the base surface. The most popular sizes are 6 × 60 mm and 8 × 80 mm. If there is a large layer of plaster, it is recommended to choose longer dowels.
9mm metal screws. Popularly called “flea beetles” or “bugs”, they are used when assembling the frame. Some professionals do without them, connecting metal profiles using a cutter.
. It is glued to the profile plane adjacent to the ceilings and walls and provides sound insulation to the structure.
Additional fastening elements are crab connectors.

Set of tools

List necessary equipment remains standard regardless of the complexity of the plasterboard construction. It includes:

A hammer drill with a drill of the required diameter. An impact drill does not always cope with reinforced concrete slabs floors.
Screwdriver. In addition to it, you can use it, but this device is rarely present in the arsenal of the average homeowner.
Marking tools: level, plumb line, tape measure, pencil.
Metal scissors. When cutting profiles, they are used rather than a grinder. When using the latter, the galvanized coating of products suffers.

Types of gypsum plasterboard structures

With your own hands you can assemble any plasterboard structure with high quality and in full compliance with the current SNiP. It can be:

Wall cladding and suspended ceilings. Leveling with plasterboard is the fastest and least labor-intensive method of preparing for finishing. uneven surfaces.
, in which door or window openings, as well as other functional or decorative interior details, can be arranged.
Box various shapes, hiding communications or carrying elements of additional lighting.
Shelves, niches, cabinets and even, which are also successfully made from gypsum plasterboard.

Frame when leveling walls

Step-by-step instructions for constructing a frame to level the wall will include:

marking;
installation and connection of profiles.

Note! To level floors, CD and UD profiles, which are classified as ceiling profiles, are more often used. CW and UW, which have wider shelves, are suitable for partitions that bear heavy loads.

Marking

On initial stage the boundaries of the future frame, the position of the profiles and the places where the hangers are attached are outlined:

A line is drawn on the ceiling, which is the upper outer boundary of the future frame. The distance between it and the wall is selected in accordance with the thickness of the profile used and the communications that are planned to be placed or covered with plasterboard. The shorter this distance, the better: more free space will be saved in the room.
Using a level, the line is transferred to the floor.

It is necessary to mark the vertical posts on the wall. Drywall sheets have standard width 120 mm, so the optimal step for attaching the rack profile is 60 cm.
In most cases, one sheet will not be enough to cover the entire wall from top to bottom. A standard Knauf gypsum board or any other brand has dimensions of 2500 × 1200 mm. Therefore, the location of the horizontal jumpers is marked.
At the same stage, it is worth putting marks at the mounting points of the suspensions. According to the technology, the distance between them should be 70–100 cm. The optimal step is 80 cm.

All construction instructions plasterboard structures note that gypsum board sheathing elements must necessarily be joined on the surface of the profile.

Assembly of the structure

After marking, installation of the frame begins:

Damper tape is glued to the sides of the guides adjacent to the wall, after which they are fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowels in increments of 60–80 cm.

If the ceilings are wooden, then use screws with wide heads or ordinary wood screws equipped with an additional washer.

Holes for dowels are drilled along the dot marks on the wall and direct hangers are attached.
Vertical posts are cut 1–2 mm shorter than the height of the room and inserted into the guides. They are attached to them using a cutter or metal screws. Their location in one plane is controlled by a level and fixed using hangers. To do this, they are attached to the racks with screws, screwed into suitable holes. The protruding parts are bent with your hands towards the wall.

The horizontal jumpers are cut off with a margin of 1–2 cm. The side shelves are cut off at the edges, after which these peculiar “tongues” are secured with screws to the racks.

All gypsum plasterboard structures have a significant drawback: they cannot withstand the load. Therefore, you should plan in advance which interior elements will be attached to the walls and where. These places should be further strengthened: twist two profiles together or insert them into the cavity of the rack wooden beam suitable size.

After completing these operations, you can sheathe the frame with sheets of plasterboard.

Partition frame

This type of construction differs from wall cladding in that it does not use direct hangers. In addition, doorways are often made in partitions, requiring additional reinforcement. The construction algorithm is simple:

Marking is carried out, during which the contour of the future partition is outlined on the floor, ceiling, and walls.
Guides are mounted along the contour, glued damper tape. The distance between fastening elements (dowel-nails or self-tapping screws) is 30–50 cm.
Vertical racks are mounted in increments of 40 or 60 cm.

Using screws, horizontal jumpers are installed on which the plasterboard sheathing elements will be joined.

Door (window) opening

The window opening in the partition is made in a similar way, only another horizontal lintel is added at the bottom.

The pitch between the hangers is 40–60 cm. Reducing it helps prevent sagging of the structure.
It is convenient to control the position of the supporting profiles using cords stretched between the walls.
At the intersections of frame elements, “crab” type connectors must be used.

The process of assembling a shelf frame for drywall is described in more detail in.

Formation of arches

The bend is created using a special arched profile. If it is not available, you can use a flow guide: cutouts in the form of petals are made in the side walls, after which it is easily bent.

Frame installation of plasterboard is the most popular way to install suspended ceilings, partitions, arches and other structures made from this material.

Scheme of a metal frame for a plasterboard ceiling.

If the technology for working with gypsum boards is clear and mastered, then with your own hands you can do everything that your imagination is capable of in terms of reconstruction and decoration of the room.

But the most important thing is to learn how to make a frame for drywall. It is the basis of any design, so special requirements are imposed on its installation.

Materials and tools used to make the frame

metal profile:

Guide profile. It is represented by the product PN28/27. Used as a part that holds the rack and ceiling profiles in line.
Ceiling profile PP 60/27. It is used for mounting vertical and horizontal posts, various lintels and curved shaped structural parts.
Rack profile. Along the entire length of the product in the central part there are special grooves designed to make it much easier to attach the screws during installation of the structure. It can also be used for various types posts, lintels and curved parts.
The suspension is straight or shortened. It is a part intended for fixing the racks of their metal profiles to the walls and ceiling.
Single-level crab connector. Designed for fastening and strengthening assemblies of profiles crossed at right angles.
Various connectors for the profile, which are designed to join its sections.
Spring suspension. It will be needed if during installation suspended ceiling the structure will need to be lowered more than the use of suspensions will allow.
Self-tapping screws for metal SMM 3.5/51, which come in two types: sharp and with a drill-shaped end.

wooden bars.

Frame diagram for a plasterboard structure made of wooden blocks.

Previously, drywall was attached to wooden frames. With the advent of metal profiles, the need to use bars disappeared due to the undoubted advantages of steel:

the metal profile frame is not subject to rotting;
it will not be damaged by wood bugs;
it does not absorb moisture and is not deformed as a result;
metal racks will not dry out, crack, or begin to creak over time when the floor moves;
the profile is many times more durable than wood, cheaper and has significantly less weight.

Therefore, it makes sense to install a wooden frame for drywall with your own hands if you have at your disposal a sufficient amount of dry timber that has nowhere else to put it. You can’t rely on the timber that is on sale: in the vast majority of cases it is freshly sawn and has high humidity. If a frame is mounted from such material, it will soon become deformed as the wood begins to dry and bend.

Tools for mounting the frame.

Tools that will be needed during the work:

Hammer or impact drill.
Battery powered screwdriver.
Levels: water, construction, laser.
Tape measure, marker, pencil, square.
Knife for cutting drywall.
Metal scissors or a grinder with a thin metal disc.
If you decide to make a frame from timber, you will need saws and a jigsaw.

Related article: Crafts from cardboard boxes: toys for children and ideas for the home (39 photos)

Technology for installing a wooden frame under plasterboard

This design is easy to make with your own hands. But the job can be done in two ways: soft and hard.

Diagram of a wooden frame for a plasterboard partition.

Hard installation method:

This is the oldest and simplest method with which you can correctly install a wooden frame. Work begins with markings. If the frame is needed for the ceiling, then a horizontal line is found and marked along the walls using a water level and a paint cord. Next, the ceiling is drawn along the lines along which the timber will be attached. The step between them is 40-60 cm. If the frame needs to be mounted for walls, then similar markings are made along them.
We begin to make the strapping with our own hands: the beam is attached along the contour of the surface that needs to be sheathed with plasterboard. If you plan to install a suspended ceiling, then the trim is attached along the marking lines to the wall. If a partition is being built or a wall is being leveled, then the bars must be fastened along the entire perimeter of the area being sewn with plasterboard.
The sequence of these works is as follows: along the entire length of the bars, in increments of 30-40 cm, holes are drilled, slightly larger than a nail, with which we will mark the walls. Wood planks are applied to the wall and using a nail and a hammer we get marks. These places are drilled out and plastic dowels 40/60 or 40/40, or regular choppers are inserted into the holes. Thus, we will make the strapping with our own hands.
We stretch a fishing line or thread between the bars, which will serve as a guide for installing vertical or horizontal posts.
In the same way as in the case of strapping, we correctly install the required strips.

Technology of “soft” installation of a wooden frame:

The main difference between this method of assembling a timber frame is the use of direct hangers: “U”-shaped brackets for working with metal profiles. Thanks to them, the speed of installation of structures increases significantly.
The hangers are attached along the marking lines for the racks in increments of 40-50 cm.
The bars are attached to them using suitable wood screws.
The technology for installing the frame is similar to assembling it from a metal profile.

How to make a frame from a metal profile for walls or ceilings

Marking the frame for a plasterboard structure: 1 - prepare a pencil, an angled ruler and a level; 2 - using a level and a pencil, make even markings for attaching the profiles; 3 - apply the profile to the markings and screw the profile to the floor and wall; 4 - to mark the place where the profile is attached, we use a plumb line; 5 - assemble the frame and check its evenness with a level.

Marking

To correctly perform this important stage of work, you need to understand two things: for the device interior partitions, niches, to level the walls, markings begin from the floor. The lines along which the PN 28/27 profiles will be attached are marked here. They must be strictly parallel, and the distance between them must be equal to the thickness of the partition or the distance from the base wall.

Related article: Second light in the interior of the house

Second step

Correctly transfer the markings from the floor to the ceiling. Here you will need a plumb line. With its help, we carry out the necessary projection of markings: several points are placed on the ceiling, which are combined into solid lines. Next, we calculate the location of vertical racks for working with walls, and horizontal ones for working on the ceiling. The pitch of the racks is 40-60 cm. On these lines we make marks along which we will mount the hangers. The distance between them is 40-50 cm.

Installing the guide profile PN 28/27

If we make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with our own hands, then we attach the profile along the lines on the walls. They determine the height of the first level of the structure. You should check whether the markings are applied correctly and whether they correspond to the horizontal. If we are sheathing a wall, then we attach the guides along the lines on the floor and ceiling.

Installing a rack or ceiling profile

Use metal scissors to cut the posts to the required length. At the marking points for hangers, we drill holes for dowels or anchors. If you are installing a frame for a suspended ceiling, then under no circumstances should you use plastic dowels for quick installation. The fact is that plasterboard structures are quite heavy and over time the plastic screws will come out and the ceiling will become deformed. We insert the prepared racks from the ceiling or rack profile into the guides and fix them in the hangers with SMM 3.5/51 self-tapping screws. We bend the sides of the hangers (“whiskers”) to the base surface.

Technology for installing a metal profile frame for shaped elements

Technology for installing a metal profile frame for shaped elements: 1 - use metal scissors every few cm; 2 - applying it to the line, we begin to carefully bend it to the desired position and screw it on; 3 - dry bending of gypsum boards with cutting longitudinal cuts; 4 - screw the gypsum board to the frame.

First you need to learn how to bend the profile correctly. To do this, you need to draw a curved line on the walls, ceiling or drywall. Using metal scissors, we make cuts every 5 cm in the side walls of PP 60/27. Applying it to the line, we begin to carefully bend it to the desired position.

To install shaped elements: arches and various curved parts, you need to learn how to properly deform drywall. This will allow you to do it yourself high-quality cladding designs. For these works, the gypsum board sheet must have a thickness of no more than 6 mm.

Wet bending of drywall. On one side of the sheet we do required quantity shallow punctures, about a third of the thickness of the material with a distance between points of 1.5-2 cm. Using a sponge or brush with soft bristles, we wet the surface of the sheet from the side of the punctures. We repeat the process until moisture is no longer absorbed by the plaster. We apply the plasterboard onto the pre-prepared template and fix it. After 12-20 hours, the drywall will take the desired shape and dry.

Dry bending of gypsum boards. This method requires care and precision. Longitudinal cuts are made on one side of the sheet, up to the depth of cardboard with reverse side GKL. These seams are milled. That is, with the help sharp knife chamfers are removed, the cutting angle of which depends on the bending diameter required for manufacturing the required part. The wider and deeper the grooves, the smoother and steeper the bend will be. After this, the drywall is attached to the template, and the cut grooves are cleaned of dust and puttied.

Nowadays you won’t surprise anyone with uneven floors. Such bases are difficult to finish, and they do not look aesthetically pleasing.

Drywall sheets help solve the problem of uneven surfaces. In some cases, they are simply installed with glue, but more often than not, gypsum board panels need to be installed on a frame structure made from a profile.

Peculiarities

Drywall is a very popular and common material, which is most often used in repair and construction work. Not only are various structures made from it (arches, niches, furniture), but this material is also used to level various bases.

Thus, it is not possible to finish walls with differences and protruding areas due to the indicated defects. To solve this problem, use various materials, For example, OSB sheets, chipboard panels or plasterboard sheets. The last options are used most often.

It is not always possible to install drywall with glue, thereby leveling the base. Much more often it is necessary to construct a profile frame, on which the gypsum board will be attached in the future.

The main feature of this design is that it takes up a certain amount of free space. This nuance should be taken into account if you plan to level the floors in the house. For this reason in very small rooms it is not always possible to equip a frame from a profile.

However, the use of a profile is a priority in installing drywall.

Such designs have many positive qualities:

First of all, it should be noted that profile frames are characterized by ideal geometry. When using a bar, the material often has to be sorted out, which is why a considerable portion of it is sent to waste due to kinks. There are no such problems with profile elements.
Metal profile frames always remain constant, regardless of humidity levels or temperature conditions. Wooden parts they cannot boast of such properties - in conditions high humidity wood swells and when dried is subject to deformation.

Any changes to the sheathing can lead to damage and cracking of drywall, so metal backing is best suited for it.

Profile bases are durable. The same block for a long time can't boast. Over time, various damage may appear on the tree, destructive fungus and mold. After 10-15 years, a timber frame will lose its former reliability and strength, which cannot be said about metal structures.
A metal frame can be installed in almost any room, since it is not afraid of temperature changes and other external factors.
Today, stores sell many high-quality fasteners that allow you to secure the structure to the base as tightly and reliably as possible.
It is quite possible to assemble such a structure with your own hands. Of course, to do this you need to follow clear instructions so as not to make any mistakes, but every master can cope with this.

Using profile frames The result is perfectly smooth, neat and stable foundations.
To construct a frame from a profile, you do not need to use special expensive tools.
A profile frame will not cost the craftsman much.
Even if the profile is damaged, it is very easy to restore.
Before installing such a structure, there is no need to carefully prepare the walls.
The metal profile is not afraid of fire. It is not flammable and does not support combustion like wooden structures.

Profile frames for drywall are not ideal. They also have some disadvantages:

despite the fact that metal profiles are relatively inexpensive, they are still more expensive than wooden parts;
because of small quantity thread turns, fasteners may accidentally fall out of the guides, which will negatively affect the stability of the structure;
metal sheathing may be subject to corrosion;
Some frame structures are quite complex, so not every home craftsman can handle them on his own.

To make the frame truly reliable and durable, you need to buy high-quality materials that are free from defects and damage. If all rules and regulations are observed, the result will be a smooth and neat surface that can be easily finished.

Types of structures

The choice of its base directly depends on where the frame will be installed. For example, one frame is used to assemble a box for a bathroom, and another is used to level the walls or ceiling.

Today, there are several types of profiles with certain symbols:

PS. This profile is rack-mount. It has a U-shaped structure with longitudinal grooves. It is used as vertical posts.
PP. This profile is a ceiling profile. It has 3 longitudinal grooves. It is to this material that plasterboards are attached.
Mon. This is a guide profile that serves as a frame for walls. The same element is used in the construction of partitions. The PN profile is fixed both on the floor and on the ceiling, ultimately forming a kind of frame for the future structure.

PU. This is the name of the corner profile, which is designed to secure corners. PU can be external and internal.
PNP. This is a ceiling guide profile. It is addressed when constructing a suspended base. Such profiles are attached to the walls and guide the ceiling profile.
PA. This profile is arched. It is used for decoration arched openings. Besides, this type profile is perfect for arranging complex suspended structures non-standard shape.

Frames are used for plaster covering not only walls, but also ceilings. Ceiling structures are different. The simplest and most uncomplicated are single-level frames, which serve as the basis for multi-level ceilings.

Single-level frames are created easily and simply. The main condition that must be observed is attach frame parts to the base as securely as possible. The final stage in in this case The sheathing will be covered with plasterboard.

When installing a single-level structure, it is extremely important to use high-quality measuring instruments. It is equally important to adhere to the correct horizon, and also take care in advance of electrical wiring and other communications located on the ceiling.

Leave extra space under the light (10-15 cm will be enough). If you follow this rule, it will be easier to install lighting devices.

The main advantages of single-level ceiling frames are:

maintaining an attractive appearance finished surface, despite any changes to the foundation or its shrinkage;
the ceiling height in the room will not change much from such a design, which is especially important for compact areas;
such designs perfectly hide various defects and unevenness of the ceiling;
behind a single-level frame covered with plasterboard, you can hide the electrical wiring;
with the help of such cladding you can protect your home from noise coming from neighboring apartments.

If you are a fan of more original design ideas, then you will like the multi-level design. Such frames are installed on concrete plates floors. Then on each layer the next layer is installed.

The frames for such ceilings are more complex. It is recommended to make them only experienced craftsmen . A beginner runs the risk of not being able to cope with such work. Multi-level frames allow you to create beautiful ceiling structures from plasterboard.

Such details not only decorate the interior, but can also act as an element of zoning the room.

Scope of application

Profile frames are used quite often. Such designs are reliable and durable, which is why they are chosen by both beginners and experienced craftsmen when renovating a house.

Let's look at the areas in which frames made from plasterboard profiles are used today. These basics are used for:

designing arches;
strengthening existing structures;
sound insulation of the room (insulation can be both internal and external);
construction of shelves and niches different sizes;

installing a suspended ceiling;
installation of the box;
facing uneven walls or damaged ceilings;
designing a partition;
arrangement of door and window openings.

In all of the above cases, a profile frame is used, onto which sheets of plasterboard are subsequently hemmed.

After all the work is completed, these structures can be finished - painted, wallpapered or covered with a plaster mixture.

Important nuances

When constructing a reliable frame from a metal profile, it is very important to take into account the following nuances:

Before proceeding with plasterboard cladding, it is important to lay out the electrical cables and all plumbing pipes.
The frame should be as reliable and strong as possible. In addition, it must be rigid in order to easily withstand various loads.
Plasterboard boards must be installed in a checkerboard pattern.
All sheets coming after the starting parts must be connected in the center of the metal profile.

Before laying gypsum board sheets, you need to securely screw the entire frame onto self-tapping screws. Pay special attention to the corners.
To make the structure as strong as possible, you should install a corner and also cover it with plasterboard sheets; in this area it is recommended to maintain a step of 30 cm.
To assemble the frame, it is necessary to use only high-quality and reliable materials.
When marking the ceiling and walls, you need to consider one thing important condition: all joints located between gypsum board sheets must be located directly on the profile.

If you take into account all the listed nuances when making a base for drywall, the frame will be strong, reliable and durable.

Tools

It is possible to make a frame structure for installing plasterboard sheets with your own hands. To do this you need to stock up on everything necessary tools and devices.

These include:

hammer;
ruler;
roulette;
dowels;
perforator;
pencil;

plumb line with a load;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
bubble or laser level;

cross and straight connectors;
pendants;
metal profiles.

As for metal profiles, here it is very important to buy copies without damage or creases. Be sure to carefully inspect these parts before paying - deformed guides will be very difficult to work with, and the result may disappoint you.

Installation subtleties

If you stocked up on everything necessary materials and tools, then you can proceed to the direct construction of the frame from the profile.

Let's consider step by step instructions on the installation of profile frames using the example of arranging a partition:

It must be assumed that the partition must have sufficient rigidity. This is especially important if the frame structure does not rest on two main walls.
Work should begin with fastening the guides. To do this, use a dowel with a screw and follow a step of 40-50 cm.
Next you need to install the vertical posts. They are fastened to each other with special horizontal ties.
The racks are attached with the front side to one of the wall ceilings.

As a result, it turns out that both sides of the partition will have an edge necessary for installing plasterboard sheets.
If you want to insulate a structure or close communications in it, then you need to select profiles of appropriate sizes.
All components of the frame structure are fixed using metal screws.
A wooden block of suitable dimensions must be installed in the side parts to make the structure stronger and more reliable.

After this, you can begin filing gypsum board sheets.

If you are constructing a frame in doorway, then you should follow another instruction:

First you need to collect door frame with a pre-installed door leaf.
Insert fiberboard or hardboard wedges to create the required gaps.
Next, you need to set up the racks adjacent to the doorway. They need to be fixed in a vertical position and additionally reinforced with a block of wood.
Then you need to apply polyurethane foam and secure the box with self-tapping screws.

This method of constructing a frame is considered quite complex, but it is best suited for cases where the opening was not initially provided.

When arranging a skylight, you need to consider the following nuances:

first you need to install 2 horizontal jumpers: one at the top and the second at the bottom;
It is recommended to supplement the vertical racks with wooden mortgages.

The easiest way is to construct a frame on the walls. Let us consider in detail how to properly mount this structure on this basis:

First you need to apply markings. It is desirable that the profile is located as close to the wall as possible. However, this rule ceases to apply if you plan to insulate the structure.
The marking must begin from the floor, and then transfer the necessary data to the ceiling.
After this, you can move on to the marks on the side ceilings and the main surface.
Do not forget that the pitch of the rack profile should be from 50 to 55-60 cm.

Next you need to drill for the fasteners. At this stage, you can immediately install the U-shaped brackets.
After this, all the constituent elements of the sheathing should be secured. First, a guide profile (PN) is installed to obtain a closed-type structure into which the rack profiles (SP) will be inserted.
Use metal screws to screw the profiles to each other (both top and bottom).
The rack parts must be attached to the hangers.

Suspensions often extend beyond the profile. The protruding elements must be bent inward so that there is no interference with the installation of plasterboard sheets.

If you want to make the frame more rigid, you need to use horizontal ties. They can be made from the metal profile itself, which must be cut in accordance with the required dimensional parameters. However, you should leave a small margin. Particular attention should be paid to the fastening of these parts.

As mentioned above, plasterboard is often used to cover the ceiling, creating single-tier and multi-tier structures. To make them, it is also necessary to make a frame from a profile.

Its device must be made as follows:

First, you need to perform a calculation and apply markings to the ceiling at the places where the suspensions are attached. In this case, you need to maintain a distance of 120 cm from the walls and the next element.
Thus, a line of fastening of the main profile parts is created.
There should be a distance of 50 cm between the supporting guides.
The supporting profile located closer to the wall should be installed 10 cm from the ceiling, and the next one - 40 cm from it.
Suspensions must be attached to the ceiling with the smooth side. Apply sealing tape to these parts in advance. Leave a distance of 1 m between them, and 120 cm between the rows.
Next, you need to tightly secure the ceiling profile. If its length is not enough, then you will have to increase (that is, lengthen) this part yourself using an extension cord.
Next you need to install guides between the supporting profiles. One edge of the profile does not need to be fixed at all, while the other is placed in a “crab”. At the same time, markings of the location of these parts are applied to the wall, so that later the drywall can be properly hemmed.

As you can see, assembling a frame for installing drywall is not as difficult as it might seem. The main thing is to work slowly and connect all the necessary parts together as reliably as possible.

If it seems to you that you cannot cope with such work on your own, it is better to contact experienced craftsmen who will design profile design in short time.

It is advisable to carry out the installation of the frame and drywall together with an assistant. In addition, it is recommended to use sheets with a side of no more than 90 cm.
When purchasing profiles for constructing a frame, you must Special attention give them their purpose. For example, you cannot use guides intended for the ceiling to decorate walls (and vice versa).
When assembling and installing the frame, you cannot use a grinder, since the torque of this tool is very high, and galvanized profiles are not very thick. Because of this, the material being cut heats up very quickly and becomes deformed.
Before proceeding with the installation of a metal profile frame, you should complete all work related to communications, which in the future you plan to “hide” behind drywall. Stretch all the wires in advance, mount sockets and other necessary parts.

As for the wiring for the lamp, it is better to leave it with a small margin to make it more convenient to connect the device.

In the process of applying markings to walls or ceilings, one important condition must be taken into account: all joints between plasterboard sheets must be on the profile.
After installing the metal frame, an annoying rattling sound may appear. To avoid such a problem, you need to glue a sealing tape between the surface and the guides.
Particular attention should be paid to partitions in which it is planned to install a doorway. In this case, the lower guide needs to be trimmed, and additional vertical posts must be installed.
Measure the length of each structural element separately, since the structure of the rooms is modern apartments is rarely perfectly correct. When taking measurements, reduce the distance between the ceilings by 2-3 cm.

The frames of the partitions do not need to be attached to the walls, so the cells in them should be small. Experts advise forming them from squares with a side of 40 cm. This way, you can achieve optimal structural rigidity.

To calculate the pitch of the frame, you need to rely on the dimensional parameters of the drywall sheet. Each part must be securely fastened to 3 rack or ceiling profiles.
When you are constructing a frame on walls or ceilings, it is especially important to ensure that the angles between all structural elements are perfectly straight. You can use a square for this.
The profiles must be fastened together and fixed to the base/hangers using self-tapping screws with press washers.
Connecting everyone necessary details The frame should be made as reliable and strong as possible. This way you will make the structure as strong as possible.
When finishing the steps of stairs, a special corner profile with sliding is used. This element has an anti-slip surface, thereby ensuring the safety of the structure as a whole.

It is permissible to join profiles with a slight overlap. This way you can avoid the appearance of gaps on the base.
Always strictly adhere to the frame construction technique. If you neglect certain stages of the work, the result may be an incorrect design and will not last as long.
Always install ceiling structures on suspensions. Their smooth side should face down. It is this that in this case serves as the basis to which the gypsum board will be installed.
Under no circumstances should a multi-level ceiling be left without hangers. This design can lead to cracks throughout the entire surface of the ceiling.
Always attach drywall sheets with the right side up. For example, if you install moisture-resistant sheets incorrectly, this may negatively affect the properties of the finished coating.

Beautiful examples

Drywall hemmed to a frame base produces very impressive elements that decorate the interior. For example, it could be a multi-level ceiling with multiple recesses square shape. Such a finish will look expensive and aristocratic, especially if you make it white, cream or beige.

From frame construction with plasterboard you get very attractive and original partitions. These elements may have through shaped “windows”.

They often contain small plaster shelves.

Look especially bright and impressive multi-level ceilings with LED backlight. If you want to add some zest to the interior, it is possible to place ribbons on each level different color and reinforce them spotlights. However, it is worth considering that such designs look organic only in large rooms with high ceilings.

Made from plasterboard attached to a metal frame, you can build a very beautiful niche and place it above the head of the bed. Recesses in such a design should be equipped with recessed lamps.

Please note that a niche that is too colorful and bright is not suitable for a bedroom. Stick to more neutral and calming shades.

Without a properly assembled frame, drywall will not last long. The strength and reliability of walls, ceilings, arches, shelves and other structures made of gypsum plasterboard, so beloved, depend on the frame professional builders and for amateurs.

To ensure that the repair does not turn out to be a trivial waste of money, competent implementation of the recommendations and advice of the experts on installing the frame is required.

Today, two methods of installing drywall using a frame are used - on a wooden beam and a metal profile. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, but the right approach Using both methods, the desired end result is achieved.

Repair using gypsum plasterboard

Timber is selected for work when there is excess wood good quality. Although it is believed that a frame made from it is cheaper, in reality this is not entirely true - wood becomes more expensive every year.

Timber as a material for a frame under plasterboard is used in rooms with moderate humidity and normal temperature conditions. It is dried well, and installation begins after treatment with an antiseptic. In this regard, the profile is more advantageous: it does not rot, it will not be beaten by shashel, it is not afraid of temperature changes, it will not get wet, crack or dry out.

A sheet of plasterboard on a frame made of timber holds tighter, since the screws cling to the wood with all the threads and fit more tightly. Profile option loses a little in this regard, but the issue is resolved by more frequent installation of self-tapping screws.

A timber frame is environmentally friendly, but a metal profile frame is durable, easier to install, and the material for it can be bought at any store. At the same time, the elements frame structures are offered in assortment. You don’t have to invent your own - everything is standard.

Tools for constructing frames

When planning a frame from wooden slats, then prepare the following tools:

Saw.
Jigsaw.
Hammer.
Screws and nails.
Reiki - timber.
Metal corner.

If the frame is made of a profile, then find scissors or a hacksaw. In any case, you cannot do without a level, plumb line, or rules. In addition, you will need:

Screwdriver;
Dowels;
Drill or hammer drill;
Self-tapping screws for metal;
Sealing tape;
Pencil or marker;
Connectors of different types;
Suspensions;
Profiles.

Installation of a wooden frame under gypsum boards

The cross-section of the beam must be no less than 40 by 70 mm for vertical and support slats and 30 by 50 mm for horizontal ones. Wood moisture content does not exceed 15%. Preferred material selection coniferous species tree.

Work begins with a sketch of a diagram indicating the location of door and window openings. Then count required amount sheets of plasterboard, after which they begin to install the support beams of the sheathing to the floor and ceiling.

Installation begins from the floor using dowels or nails if the house is wooden. The next stage is the installation of vertical struts, between which horizontal ones are then mounted. Vertical posts are installed in increments of 60 cm.

Horizontal ones are nailed on top of the vertical posts, then vertical ones again, and so on. Horizontal ones are also placed in increments of 60 cm. Each row of sheathing is checked for verticality and plane with a level. Level the position of the lower beam on the floor by placing pieces of wood. Also regulated correct position wall plane.

It’s easier to immediately assemble the frame directly on the floor of the room, if its size allows. In this case, its width should be 1 cm less than the actual width of the wall.

Wooden frame under gypsum board

Metal frame elements

The basis is profiles - guides (UD) and carriers (CD). The first ones are needed to create the outline of the frame for drywall. They play the role of a “foundation” into which the supporting profile is inserted and fastened, into which the gypsum board is already placed.

The guide profile is standard with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 meters. It is important to pay attention to its thickness - the strength of the frame depends on it. The thicker one is suitable for walls, and the thinner one is suitable for ceilings. The supporting profile has a wide shelf (6 cm), a depth of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 or 4 meters. Issued from sheet metal of different thicknesses, which also affects the strength of the structures being constructed.

The rack profile is used only for the wall frame. Ceiling, corner and arched profiles are used in the construction of corresponding plasterboard structures. Arched with cutouts for easy bending. The width of these profiles varies from 5 to 15 cm.

The main types of self-tapping screws used in assembling frame structures are fasteners with a length of 9.5 mm (“fleas” - with sharp tips), 25 and 35 mm. It is recommended to take galvanized steel, that is, white.

Suspensions are used straight - U-shaped. They are also chosen with galvanization. There is also a so-called quick suspension. The design of this element allows you to adjust the height of the ceiling plane. Used exclusively when installing ceiling frames.

The connecting element is a “crab” or cross-shaped connector. It is used to connect transversely located profiles (crosswise). A straight connector is used to extend the rail.

Metal frame for gypsum plasterboard

Installation of a metal frame under gypsum boards

They start with markings. First, the position lines of the supporting profile on the floor and ceiling are determined and drawn. For this it is better to use a laser level. The lines are spaced from the load-bearing surfaces by approximately 10 cm. The value depends on the thickness of the profile, sheet of drywall, communications, thermal insulation and curvature of the walls.

Now install the guide profiles. They are fastened with dowels in increments of no more than a meter. Next, mark the position of the supporting profiles on the wall. They are located every 60 cm.

If increased rigidity is needed, then the installation step should be reduced to 40 cm.

After this, hangers are installed. They start from the floor at a height of 15 cm and then upward in increments of no more than 1 m. Masters advise placing them every 60 cm. A standard wall 2.5 m high will require three or four hangers. They are also fastened with dowels, preferably with a size of 6x60 mm. Next, insert the vertical posts into the guides and secure them with small self-tapping screws (9.5 mm).

In the video you can see the option of assembling the frame for gypsum boards:

The next step is to tighten the thread, which will show how much each rack profile is extended or recessed into the plane. The threads are stretched between the outer posts at the level of the suspensions. It is necessary to adjust the position of the vertical profiles relative to the thread and screw them to the hangers. After this, the plane is checked using the two-meter rule.

The installation is completed by installing horizontal jumpers. They can be made from a rack profile. Start installation from the bottom. The first one should be 25 cm from the floor, the subsequent ones should be every 40-60 cm. During the installation process, the ears of the connecting “crabs” are immediately bent and screwed to the profile.

The frame is ready. Now they begin to install the slabs, then prepare them for finishing and cladding. The process is simple, but requires attention to detail and meticulousness. Only then will design ideas not be wasted. Whichever option you choose: or metal, the main thing is to perform the installation carefully and slowly to set it level.

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