Metal tiles are becoming more and more popular every day. This is an excellent roofing material with an optimal ratio of performance and cost. Metal tiles are suitable for finishing roofs of almost any complexity. At the same time, you can cope with the tasks of installing the material yourself.
Metal tiles are produced in the form of galvanized sheet material made from steel. The sheet consists of several layers that perform important protective or decorative functions.
- Zinc layer. It is the basis for applying subsequent layers. Additionally prevents the development of corrosion.
- Passivating layer. Prevents the accumulation of static electricity.
- Primer layer. Provides the highest quality adhesion of previous and subsequent layers of metal tile sheets.
- Polymer layer. Protects the material from adverse external influences and gives it the required appearance. The coating can be matte or glossy. Many available color variations, which allows you to select roofing material that fully satisfies the owner’s needs.
Metal tiles have many advantages over other popular roofing materials, namely:
- light weight. On modern market There are many excellent roofing materials available, but many are limited in their use due to their heavy weight. Modern houses They are increasingly being built from “light” building materials and they absolutely do not need additional load. Metal tiles weigh little, so they can be safely used even for roofing houses built on weak foundations;
- many color variations. It is unlikely that you will find another roofing material presented in such a variety color solutions, like metal tiles;
- good technical characteristics. Metal tiles are resistant to atmospheric and other adverse influences. Installation of sheets can be carried out at any time of the year;
- relatively affordable price. Metal tiles are noticeably more expensive than other coatings with similar parameters. Natural tiles are much more expensive, although their properties are practically no different from those of modern high-quality steel sheets.
Metal tiles look great on the roofs of almost any building. It is best suited for large and solid houses and cottages, but if desired, you can develop an excellent roofing project even for a small country house.
Video - DIY metal tile installation instructions
Before you begin arranging the sheathing and directly fastening the sheets of metal tiles, you must definitely think about reliable and high-quality waterproofing. Thanks to the moisture-proofing material, the possibility of condensation on the internal surfaces elements roofing system, which will contribute to a significant increase in their service life.
The most popular waterproofing option is polyethylene film. This affordable material flawlessly copes with all the tasks assigned to it.
Waterproofing should be laid on the rafters under the counterbeam. Individual pieces of film are laid with an overlap of about 15-17 cm. The sag of the film between the rafters can be no more than 1.5-2 cm. To fix the film, use galvanized nails or construction stapler with metal brackets. Cover the waterproofing joints with adhesive tape. It is desirable that it be metallized.
The technology for installing a metal roof requires mandatory installation of insulation. It is most convenient to use slabs mineral wool. The material is laid between the rafter legs. The construction stapler you already know is perfect for fixing the slabs.
Sheathing device
The metal tiles will be installed on a supporting structure known as sheathing. The frame of the system is assembled from wooden boards about 100 mm wide and 25-30 mm thick. All wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic. Otherwise, the wood will rot in a fairly short time.
The lathing is attached in the interval between laying the waterproofing and installing the insulation. The task comes down to attaching wooden boards or bars to the rafters. Start fastening from the ridge of the roofing structure, gradually moving vertically down to the eaves. Fix the sheathing elements in a horizontal position. Use nails of the appropriate length. As a rule, boards are mounted as a continuous sheet.
Laying roofing material
Laying metal tiles should start from the bottom corner roof slope. It is best to start working from the lower left corner. In this case, each subsequent sheet will overlap the previous one. If you start installing the covering from the right corner, the next sheet of metal tiles will have to be placed under the already laid material. It is not advisable to do this, because... With such installation there is a high probability of damage to the roofing.
Laying of metal tiles should be carried out parallel to the cornice. Do not forget to leave an overhang behind the eaves of about 4 cm. There is a technology according to which sheets of metal tiles can be laid vertically. But in the absence of proper experience in carrying out roofing works It is better to abandon this method, opting for a more traditional and simple horizontal installation.
When laying, you will need to turn the corners slightly clockwise. This is done so that the right corners of the elements laid in one row are located in a single straight line.
To secure adjacent sheets, 1 self-tapping screw is used. This preliminary fastening is placed at the top of the sheet. After this, you need to align the elements of the system and perform their final fixation.
Place the longest sheets of metal tiles in the bottom row. With this option, installation is greatly facilitated, and the finished coating takes on a more solid and attractive appearance.
Approximately 7-8 self-tapping screws are required for 1 m2 of coating. You need to fasten the sheets in transverse waves, screwing in self-tapping screws in increments of 35 cm. You can also install self-tapping screws in longitudinal waves. With this method, it is necessary to fasten through the wave, placing self-tapping screws in the upper ridges.
An electric screwdriver is best suited for tightening screws. An electric drill will also work. The main thing is that it has the function of slow and smooth rotation of the cartridge. To achieve greater fastening accuracy, it is recommended to core the hole in advance.
The covering sheets must be secured in the lower crest of the wave, where the material is pressed against the sheathing. This will create the most reliable fastening and not deform the material.
The bottom sheets of metal tiles must be attached to the first lathing in each wave, without gaps. This area will be subject to the most powerful wind loads, so the fastening must be as reliable as possible so that the sheets do not blow off at the first strong gust of wind.
Attach to other battens at a minimum distance from below to the step. In this place sheet material has the highest rigidity. In addition, with this arrangement the screws will be almost invisible.
In places where they overlap, sheets of metal tiles must be secured through the wave. If you wish, you can record each wave. This will ensure the highest quality fit of the upper sheet elements.
For fastening roofing materials, galvanized self-tapping screws made of alloy steel are best suited. Stainless steel self-tapping screws with a seal have also proven themselves to be excellent. Such fasteners can have a wide variety of colors, which will allow you to create the optimal color combination self-tapping screws and base coating.
Self-tapping screws are screwed strictly perpendicular to the sheathing elements. Deviations are not allowed. Sheets of metal tiles should be pulled as tightly as possible to the sheathing. Any distortion of the screws can lead to the appearance of through holes in the sheets. If the roof will be exposed to prolonged exposure to an acidic or alkaline environment, self-tapping screws with plastic caps should be used to fix the metal tiles.
Check the screws 3-4 months after completion of the roofing work. Under the influence of wind loads, fastenings usually weaken. Tighten any loose screws.
Thus, in self-installation There is nothing complicated about metal tiles. Follow the instructions, adhere to the recommendations received and everything will work out.
Good luck!
Video - DIY metal tile installation instructions
Metal tiles are one of the most popular among owners country houses roofing materials. In addition to excellent performance characteristics, it has another important advantage - ease of installation. You can cover the roof with roofing sheets of this type yourself.
What tools and materials will you need?
- Screwdriver and hammer;
- Electric hacksaws and scissors;
- Long staff and marker.
An electric hacksaw is needed for cutting rafters and boards. Using metal scissors, metal tiles are cut.
You cannot cut this material with a grinder. Otherwise, due to damage to the top layer by sparks, the sheets will not last long and you will have to repair the roof with reinstallation of the roofing material.
From the materials you will need to prepare:
- Beam for rafters 50x150 mm;
- Beam for Mauerlat 150x150 mm;
- Lathing board 25x100 mm;
- 30x50 mm batten for counter-lattice;
- Waterproofing membrane;
- Mineral wool;
- Consumables.
The cross-section of lumber must be maintained. Otherwise, the owners of the house will soon have to repair the roof or even reinstall it after assembly.
In addition to the metal tiles themselves, you will need to purchase various types of additional elements: cornice and end strips, valleys, ridge element, chimney apron, snow retainers, etc.
Additional elements for metal tiles How much does a metal roofing cost?
The cost of a roof made of this material depends on several factors:
- Like polymer coating material;
- Difficulty in roof configuration;
- Type of insulation used;
- Roof size.
On average, 1 m2 of metal roofing costs approximately 1,000 rubles. Therefore, making a preliminary rough calculation will not be difficult. To do this, the roof area in square meters should simply be multiplied by 1000.
Features of constructing a roof made of metal tiles
Of course, install this material on installed frame should be correct. This applies to both the assembly of the rafter system and the cutting and installation of the sheets themselves. There will be no need to repair the roof for a long time even if it is properly covered with waterproofing.
Preparatory work
The construction of a rafter system begins with measuring all the walls and eliminating discrepancies in their dimensions. The smoother the structural elements of the house frame are, the less effort will subsequently have to be spent on adjusting the rafter legs. Before starting work on assembling the roof, all lumber must be dried under a canopy for several months. The Mauerlat is installed first, and then the beams for the floor.
Material measurements
In order to draw up a roof plan, various types of measurements should be taken. For example, all the videos available on this topic on the Internet present this process like this:
- First of all, measure the exact length of all the walls of the box. Based on this, the area of the slopes is determined;
- Determine where the chimney, ventilation holes, skylights etc.
In accordance with the results obtained, the sheets and timber are then calculated.
Lumber calculation
After the roof project has been drawn up, you can begin to calculate the required lumber. Their number depends primarily on the angle of inclination of the slopes and the area of the roof. Most often, a gable roof with a slope of 30–35 degrees is installed under metal tiles.
The amount of timber for the rafter legs is determined depending on the step at which they are going to be installed, the height of the roof and its dimensions.
The length of one leg is calculated by the formula c = √(v2 + m2), where v is the height of the roof, and m is half the span length.
The pitch between the rafters on a roof with a metal tile roof is usually 80–100 cm (depending on the width of the sheets). You can calculate the required number of rafters as follows:
- Divide the length of the wall by the selected step;
- Add one to the result and round up.
The rafter system for metal tiles does not require any additional reinforcement. The amount of material required for the sheathing is calculated based on the fact that the pitch between its elements should be 35–40 cm.
Assembling the rafter system
The roof frame is constructed using the following technology:
- Mauerlat is fixed on the walls. It can be fixed with studs embedded in the masonry, or with anchor bolts cast into the upper reinforcing belt;
- Mount the rafters. The easiest way is to fix the legs on the support beam using corners (preferably galvanized ones, otherwise you will soon have to carry out roof repairs and replace them). The top of the rafters is most often cut at an appropriate angle and fastened in pairs using steel strips and crossbars.
Roof frame construction On large and high roofs, ridge beams are often used. In this case, the rafters are secured with planks above it and additionally pulled to it with corners. The ridge beam itself is mounted on racks fixed to the Mauerlat of the short walls of the house box.
Hydro- and thermal insulation device
Sometimes metal tiles are also used cold roof. However, most often it is still insulated, as this significantly improves it performance characteristics. Wire or sparse plank sheathing is used as support for the heat insulator from the attic side. They insert cotton wool between the rafters at random. The top should be covered with waterproofing material, securing it with bars.
Waterproofing scheme The strips are placed horizontally with an overlap of 15 cm. Do not stretch the film too tightly. Otherwise, when the rafter system moves due to shrinkage of the walls and wind, it may break. The sag of the film should be about 2 cm.
Roof sheathing
The base for metal tiles should be correctly assembled from fairly wide boards(at least 20 cm). Narrow material may warp under the influence of adverse weather factors. The sheathing is installed using a pole and a building level.
The distance between the first two sheathing boards from the bottom should be very small - 10–15 cm. The sheathing is arranged with the elements fastened to two nails to each rafter. In this way you can collect reliable basis under sheets of metal tiles.
How to correctly calculate metal tiles
After assembling the sheathing, you can install it yourself roofing sheets. But of course, you must first make an accurate calculation of the required quantity. A video demonstrating the process of performing these operations is available on the Internet. You can, of course, look at it, but in principle there is nothing complicated in such a calculation. Perform this operation like this:
- Calculate the area of each slope;
- Calculate the number of sheets required to cover it, taking into account their width and length;
- Add up the results obtained.
How to properly install cornice strips and lower valleys
The instructions for attaching these elements are simple. The cornice strip is installed before the sheets are installed. The frontal board is pre-stuffed. The gutter brackets are attached to it. Next, you can begin to actually attach the bar itself.
Installation cornice strip
Another element that needs to be installed before covering the slopes with metal tiles is the lower protective valleys. Their installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- The sheathing under the valley must be continuous;
- Installation of valley elements begins from the bottom up;
- Each lower element should be overlapped with the upper one by at least 10 cm.
Choosing metal tiles
There are several types of metal tiles. When choosing this material, you should consider the following:
- Only sheets made of steel with a thickness of at least 0.45 mm are considered reliable;
- IN middle lane Russian roofs are usually covered with inexpensive sheets with a polyester protective layer;
- Warranty period for good material is at least 10–15 years. Home owners who buy this material will not have to pay for repairs if any problems arise.
Installation of sheets
So, now let's see how to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands. Installation of sheets begins from the bottom. When assembling the first row, a cornice overhang about 5 cm wide is arranged. Actually, the instructions for filing themselves look like this:
- The first sheet is attached with one screw at the very top;
- Then several more sheets (2–3) are attached to it along the side edge;
- The entire pack is carefully leveled and secured to the roof frame.
Installation of additional elements
After all the slopes are sheathed, you can begin installing additional elements. First, the upper valley strips are attached. In this case, they mostly perform purely decorative function. They are mounted on a self-expanding seal.
At the next stage, the end elements are fixed to the gables. Next, the ridge is installed. They fasten it in the same way as the upper valleys on the sealing tape.
Attic roof roof
Construction of the rafter system mansard roof done like this:
- Racks are attached under the layered rafters, purlins and tie-downs;
- The ridge is being installed. Its racks are secured in the middle of the puffs;
- Layered and then hanging rafters are installed;
- The sheathing is filled taking into account the characteristics of the roofing material.
Metal tiles are first sheathed on the sheathing of the layered rafters, and then on the hanging rafters. On the latter, in the same way as on the cornice, an overhang is made.
Some subtleties of installing metal tiles
The installation of sheets should be carried out by at least two people in compliance with the following recommendations:
- The capillary grooves must be completely covered by the next sheets in the row;
- All sheets must be carefully aligned parallel to the cornice.
We cover the roof: how to get around the chimney
Scheme of bypassing a pipe with metal tiles The construction of a metal tile roof must be such that in the area where the material adjoins the chimney pipe, water does not leak into the under-roof space. To solve this problem, special aprons are used. The instructions for installing them are as follows:
- Before laying the metal tiles, a continuous sheathing is packed around the pipe. A waterproofing material is glued onto it with an overlap of 15–20 cm over the pipe walls. A groove is made in the chimney itself around the entire perimeter.
- After laying the metal tiles, the lower apron is installed first, and then the upper one. The bent edges of their vertical parts are inserted into the groove.
Subtleties of installing curtain rods
The cornice and end strips must be fixed to the wood of the frame in increments of approximately 30 cm. If this condition is not met, they may subsequently move away, and no one will have to do it. necessary repairs. It is highly not recommended to mount them end-to-end. Each subsequent plank must overlap the previous one by at least 1 cm. These elements are fastened with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern.
Installation of valleys: features
The lower valley should be secured with self-tapping screws into each purlin. Its overlap on the slopes should be at least 25 cm. In this case, there will be no need to repair the roof due to a rotten frame. The upper valley is mounted in such a way as not to damage the lower one. They attach it to the metal tiles either with special corners or with self-tapping screws at the top of the wave (in each).
Fastening sheets to roof breaks
Installation of roof breaks As already mentioned, in the attic broken roofs metal tiles are placed with an overhang at the break. Before installation, a drip strip (in increments of 30 cm) is usually mounted on the edges of the slopes of such a rafter system for reliability.
Sometimes there is another type of fracture in the roof configuration - with a negative angle. They close it in much the same way as valleys. In this case, the carpet is laid in such a width that it extends at least 35 cm onto the upper part of the slope, and 15 cm onto the lower part. The sheathing under it should also be continuous.
Installation of snow guards
This additional element is mounted on flat roofs to avoid snow avalanches. The instructions for installing snow guards include the following steps:
- Fastening is done with long self-tapping screws into the sheathing;
- You need to make holes in the metal tiles and line them with rubber seals;
- The brackets must be screwed correctly at a distance of at least 35 cm from the cornice.
Installation of lightning protection
Lightning protection scheme for a metal roof This system must be assembled. If the lightning is attracted by the metal covering, you will have to carry out expensive roof repairs. And of course, natural electrical discharge is a very dangerous phenomenon for those living in the house. Lightning protection is assembled from the following elements:
- Lightning rod, which is a rod with a length of 5 m;
- Down conductor (circular wire);
- Grounding conductor made of a metal strip with a thickness of at least 150 mm.
The lightning rod is fixed to the roof ridge. A wire is wrapped around the chimney and connected to the middle of the rod. The ground electrode is dug into the ground to a depth of at least 80 cm and connected to the lightning rod via a down conductor.
Safety precautions
When installing metal tile sheets, observe the following safety rules:
- Cutting sheets and installing them on the roof is done using gloves;
- Take the sheets by the edges from the sides;
- To move along long slopes, special stairs are used;
- People walk on the roof in soft shoes. In this case, there will be no need for early repairs due to damage to the coating.
Conclusion
As you can see, installing metal tiles is a relatively simple matter. Numerous videos and photos available on the Internet confirm this. The rafter system for this material may not be too powerful, since its weight is not particularly large. In this case, the rafters and sheathing are mounted using standard methods. When installing the sheets themselves, you should adhere to all required technologies: do not cut the material with a grinder and correctly fasten all additional elements. In this case, the roof will be reliable and its repair will not be required for as long as possible.
Detailed instructions for installing metal roofing are presented in the video.
Metal tiles are one of the types of roofing material, which over the years of use has proven itself only with positive side. It is universal, reliable and quite accessible to any category of developers due to its reasonable cost. Installing a metal roof with your own hands requires excellent knowledge of the subject. But even if all the work is entrusted to professional builders, it won’t hurt to have an idea general principles installation in order to competently control the process.
From correct installation the duration of its trouble-free operation in the future will depend on the coating.
Sequence of actions when installing a metal tile roof
- Measuring the roof to accurately calculate the amount of all materials, including insulation, vapor and waterproofing insulators, as well as fasteners
- Installation of the rafter system
- Installing the eaves board to attach the gutter hook
- Roof overhang trim and fascia installation
- Installation of gutter hooks
- Fastening the counter-lattice along the rafters, installing a waterproofing coating
- Installation of sheathing and reinforcing strips where necessary (that is, around additional roof elements - roof windows, hoods, chimneys, along the ridge)
- Installing a cornice strip
- Installation of the bottom valley carpet
- Installation of an “apron” around the chimney
- Direct installation of metal roofing, installation of dormer and/or roof windows
- Installing the end strip
- Installation of the upper valley carpet
- Junction strips: installation
- Installation of external corners and ridge strips
- Installation of fencing and bridges
- Installation of a drainage system
- Work on grounding the roof with a bus, separate from the lightning rod bus
- Pre-final stage of installation - cleaning the surface, applying paint to problem areas
- Working with rafter system: laying thermal insulation and installing counter battens
- Installation of vapor barrier, its fastening
Instructions for calculating metal roof tiles
Metal tiles are galvanized steel sheets with decorative protective coating. The full width of the sheet is always 80-120mm greater than the working width, so when choosing a coating, you need to know exactly the size of the working area.
In order for the calculation of the number of sheets of roofing material to be accurate, the longest length of the metal tile sheet must be divided by its working width. The result obtained is rounded to the maximum figure (calculation is carried out horizontally of the slope).
The number of sheets in one row and their total length are calculated using the following parameters:
- The length of the slope is measured from the top of the roof to the bottom
- The eaves overhang is taken into account - 0.05 m
- The vertical overlap of sheets is 0.15 m per row. If the length of the metal tile sheets allows the covering to be laid in one row, the overlap is not taken into account
After measurements, all indicators are added up - this will be the required length.
If the manufacturer cuts the sheets according to individual measurements, then the calculation of the metal tiles for the roof is made by his representatives. With a personal approach, the amount of waste is reduced. Metal tiles can be of different sizes: from 70cm to 12m. Most best option– from 4 to 4.5 m.
At the point of contact with another slope, the sheet of tile should be of such length that the slopes are completely covered.
Installation of rafter system
It is better not to calculate the pitch and cross-section of the rafters yourself, but to invite specialists for this purpose. The fact is that if the measurements are taken incorrectly, the heavy metal tile roof will definitely sag - and very quickly.
Typically, rafter beams with a cross section of 150x50mm and 100x50mm are used. The optimal distance between them is considered to be 60-90cm. If for some reason it needs to be increased, the sheathing should be laid across.
The maximum wood moisture content should be within 22%. Before installation, it is necessary to carry out fire protection and antiseptic treatment.
Before starting work, the roof slopes must be checked diagonally. The perimeter of the roof should be rectangular. In addition, you need to make sure that the fractures of the slopes and the eaves ridge are horizontal.
When choosing metal tiles as a covering, you should take into account the roof slope - at least 14 degrees.
Curtain board: installation
In order to mount the cornice board, grooves are cut out in the rafters. This board, designed for the gutter hook, provides additional rigidity to the entire system.
Roof overhang trim and fascia installation
The front board is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. It is needed to ensure the entire structure is more reliable.
The under-roof space must be ventilated, therefore, in the process of filing the roof overhang, it is necessary to provide ventilation slots. Corrugated sheeting, siding, lining, etc. are used as materials for filing. When arranging the hem, you need to hammer the block onto the wall. It should be located at the same level as the bottom of the front board.
The next stage: crossbars are nailed between the horizontal beam and the front board. The result is a sheathing on which you need to attach the filing so that there are ventilation gaps. It is advisable to isolate them from birds and insects with a fine mesh net.
Installation of gutter hooks
Gutters are installed before the metal roofing installation begins. The hooks on which they are laid are attached either to cornice board, or to the rafters. The distance between the hooks must match the distance between the rafter beams. First, the grooves are cut, then the hooks are inserted into them with the base, bent and secured with self-tapping screws.
Installation of waterproofing coating and ventilation system
In order to prevent metal corrosion and rotting of the wooden component of the roof structure, insulating coatings and ventilation are necessary.
The ratio of the area of ventilation gaps to the total area of the roof should be in proportions of one to one hundred. Ventilation gaps are located according to the area of each slope. For example, the area of the slope is 100 m2, therefore, the area of the gaps will be 1 m2.
There is an influx of air at the eaves, and an outflow at the ridge. Both indicators of the eaves and ridge ventilation area must be equal, so the total indicator for a particular slope is divided in half. This will ensure uniformity in the flow of air in and out.
The air flow throughout the entire under-roof space should be uniform, and nothing should interfere with it. This is ensured:
- Ventilation gap at the roof ridge, as well as dormer windows
- Through air flow between the roof and the waterproofing coating, as well as between heat and waterproofing
- Ventilation gaps in the cornice sheathing
Waterproofing device
The waterproofing layer prevents contamination and water from entering under the roof. In addition, thanks to it, water vapor easily escapes into the ridge ventilation gap.
One of three types of waterproofing films are used.
- Superdiffusion membranes.
- Anti-condensation materials.
- Classic waterproofing.
If applicable classic version, then the ventilation should be double-circuit: between the roofing material and the waterproofing, as well as between the insulation and the waterproofing.
The superdiffusion membrane is placed directly on the insulation; single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the roofing material and the membrane itself.
When laying anti-condensation materials there must be double-circuit ventilation. The peculiarity of this material is that it has a fleecy structure; water is absorbed into the pile, after which it dries quickly in warm and sunny weather.
Regardless of the type of waterproofing film, the gap should be 3-5 cm.
One of the answers to the question “how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles” will be compliance with the immutable rule: bitumen-based waterproofing is not used under tiled roof no way.
Nuances of proper installation
The first row of waterproofing film must begin to be rolled out from the eaves in a horizontal direction. The overlap of one strip over another must be at least 15cm; this boundary is designated by the manufacturers and runs along the entire roll in the form of a strip. Used to isolate overlap areas adhesive tape, and the strips are fastened together with a construction stapler.
The overlaps should not be in the gaps, but directly on the wooden structural elements - that is, on the spacer bars, counter-battens, rafters, sheathing. When laying waterproofing, you should keep in mind that you cannot turn the material over backwards; such an arrangement of the film will not provide protection from moisture.
The film should be laid with a margin - that is, it should sag between the rafters by about 20mm. This is necessary in order to prevent its breakage or tension under the influence weather conditions(cold) or due to possible shifts in the truss structure.
Since anti-condensation and classic films require double-circuit ventilation, the rafter should protrude beyond the level of thermal insulation by 3-5 cm. If the thermal insulation layer is equipped in such a way that it is flush with the rafters, a spacer bar having a cross-section of 30x50mm must be placed along the beam. This will ensure the creation of a ventilation channel in the gap between the waterproofing and insulation.
The superdiffusion membrane is rolled directly along the rafters. If the rafter protrudes above the thermal insulation, then the membrane must be rolled out so that it wraps around it.
The waterproofing layer must be arranged so that it protrudes at least 20 cm beyond the wall line - both at the roof overhang and at the eaves. In the area of the eaves, the waterproofing material must be taken out along the rafters and attached with special tape. If in role waterproofing material membrane protrudes, then it will be easier to recognize damage to the roof - by the volume of incoming water.
At the junctions of the slopes, the overlap of the film panels on each other should be from 15 to 20 cm.
Ventilation and chimneys It is advisable to waterproof with a double layer. The first layer is made with an overlap to a height of about 5 cm, the second is laid on top of the first.
If you plan to make the attic cold, that is, without insulation, waterproofing films should still be used. Due to the difference in external and internal temperatures, the metal tiles will “sweat”; the film must be laid under the sheets of tiles with an interval of at least 5 cm. Thanks to this installation, the temperature inside and outside the profile will be the same. With this type of attic, anti-condensation materials are best suited.
Installation of sheathing and reinforcement strips
Before covering the roof with metal tiles, you need to properly install the sheathing.
The cross-section of the initial lathing must necessarily be larger than the others by the size of the wave height, because it is mounted under the upper edge of the sheet step. It must be laid strictly parallel to the cornice, the distance between the first two battens should be 28 cm, between all the rest - 35 cm.
When installing the sheathing, you should prepare in advance the attachment points for all additional elements that will be located on the roof.
The ridge strip must be secured especially well, so under the place where it will be located, you need to nail two additional boards on both sides, 50 mm apart, on top of the rafters.
Where the slopes join each other (in the valleys), a continuous sheathing is made around the attic windows and chimneys.
When installing a metal tile roof with your own hands or with the participation of specialists, gable overhangs are sometimes made. In this case, the horizontal sheathing boards must be extended to the length of the overhangs, and a reinforcing bar must be installed from the eaves to the ridge, to which an end board pre-coated with waterproofing is attached. The overhang is hemmed using connecting bars, which, in turn, are nailed between the end board and the rafters. The end board is taken out from the wall and strengthened so that it completely covers the side waves of the metal tile, as well as the counter-lattice and sheathing.
Installing a cornice strip
Before laying the metal tiles, the eaves strip is strengthened over the gutter hooks. Its tension should be maximum so that it is resistant to wind. The plank is mounted to the cornice and frontal boards with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30 cm from each other. The overlap in length is made from 5 to 10 cm.
Installation of the valley
Where the joints of the slopes form negative angles, provision is made for the installation of valleys. Before installing the lower ends, a continuous sheathing is made of boards, the cross-section of which should be 150x25mm. They are laid on both sides of the joint along a length of 30 cm. The result is a wooden gutter, which is protected from the inside with a waterproofing coating. The valley is secured with self-tapping screws, maintaining a distance of 300mm between them. The cornice board is located under the lower edge of the valley.
A horizontal valley joint requires an overlap of at least 100mm. In the case of a very obtuse angle, the valley should be protected with an additional waterproofing layer, which is laid lengthwise. It is advisable to compact the metal tiles and the lower valley by laying a porous self-expanding material between them.
Installation of an “apron” around the chimney pipe
In those places where the chimney opens onto the roof surface, it is necessary to equip the internal parts of the connection.
- The abutment strips are usually selected in the same color as the roofing material; their size must be appropriate
- It is necessary to make a groove in the pipe with a not very large upper slope, its depth should be at least 15mm
- Using heat-resistant waterproofing, it is necessary to bring it to the pipe. The outlet must be at least 50mm. The cut is glued to the pipe with special construction tape
Where the pipe comes out of the roof, wrap it with film - this could be “Ecobit”.
After covering the roof with metal tiles, the time comes for the final stage - the decorative outer “apron” is installed. External junction strips must be placed on the pipe, the outer part of which is placed in the groove. Then they are insulated with heat-resistant sealant. The lower part of the plank is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.
Ventilation between the pipe and the rafters must be ensured by an optimal distance between them.
To protect brick pipe from cracking in case of strong heating (and this happens if the brick is wet), you need to wrap it steel sheet coated with polymer. For ventilation, be sure to leave a gap of 20mm.
The round chimney is insulated in the place where it goes out onto the roof with a special tape - “Ecobit” or similar. It has a self-expanding base, which allows for excellent sealing through hole by its diameter.
How to cover a roof with metal tiles
To make it easier to lift sheets of metal tiles onto the roof, you need to install special logs. In case the roof surface is different large sizes, or there is nowhere to store metal tiles on the ground, or there is some other reason why it is not very convenient to constantly feed sheets from the ground, you can equip racks on the roof. They will serve for temporary storage of building materials. In order not to damage the coating of the sheets, they should be laid on slats, separating one from the other. Protective film is removed from the tiles immediately after installation.
To avoid damaging the metal tiles, you need to walk on them very carefully. If you have to move along the surface, you need to step into the gap between the waves. If you need to walk across, you need to walk along the fold. In any case, carry out installation only with soft shoes to completely prevent damage to the sheets.
During rainy weather, there is a concern that where one sheet overlaps another, water may seep in, rising above the drainage level. This is the so-called capillary effect, in which moisture is squeezed out between sheets pressed against each other.
To prevent this from happening, each metal tile sheet has a special groove, thanks to which water that has seeped under the sheet can drain away calmly. If there are varieties of metal tiles, where a groove is provided on both sides of the sheet, but usually it is on the right. When laying the coating, you need to ensure that the capillary groove of the previous sheet is covered by the next one.
The installation of the coating begins with laying the first sheet; the subsequent ones can be installed as in right side, and to the left. The direction is chosen on the basis of “what is most convenient”. But, in any case, you need to start from the side where there are no cuts or bevels, and there is no need to trim the sheet. Laying continues towards another slope - either to the inter-slope valley, or to the oblique ridge.
If installation is done from right to left, then all subsequent sheets fall on the outermost wave of the previous ones. The capillary groove closes on the left.
If the roofing material is installed from left to right, to cover the capillary groove, the edge of the subsequent sheet is placed under the wave of the previously laid one. Installing metal tiles in this way is easier than the previous method, because one sheet is secured with another, which eliminates its unexpected shift. But there is a risk of accidentally scratching the polymer coating.
It doesn't matter how much complex design will be the roof, all sheets must be aligned parallel to the eaves line in the horizontal direction. The overhang behind the cornice should be 50mm.
When calculating how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles, you should know that this can be done in several ways.
With this method of laying from right to left, the first sheet must be aligned according to the end and cornice, after which it is temporarily secured with a self-tapping screw in the center next to the ridge. The next sheet is laid down with one wave on top and aligned to match the position of the first sheet, after which they are fastened together. In this way, you need to lay out no more than four sheets, connecting them all together in turn. The result is a block that needs to be aligned with the cornice, leaving an allowance for the overhang. Then the entire structure is attached to the sheathing. The very last sheet does not need to be screwed until the next block is aligned.
This installation method involves laying the sheets in this way: the alignment of the first sheet, laid in the direction from right to left, is done along the end and the cornice. A second sheet is fixed over the first one with an overlay - with a self-tapping screw in the center at the ridge (temporarily). After which they are aligned and fastened together with self-tapping screws. The third sheet is placed on the left side of the first, and they are also fastened to each other. A third sheet is mounted above the third sheet (similar to the first and second). Ready block are equal to the end and cornice, respectively, then the final fastening to the sheathing occurs.
Laying metal tiles on triangular slopes
Before you start installing metal tiles on a triangular slope, you need to make a marking in its center and draw a center line through it. The same line is drawn along the metal tile sheet; after combining them, the sheet is attached to the ridge with a self-tapping screw. The installation of the remaining sheets is carried out on both sides of the first - the same as in the first two cases.
When tiles are installed on slanting ridges, in valleys and on triangular slopes, the sheets must be trimmed. This can be done right on the roof. The tiles are marked on special device- “devil.” It is arranged like this: two boards are parallel to one another, the other two are placed on them perpendicularly and are loosely fastened. The width of each should be 100mm. The distance from the left board (its internal edge) to the right (external edge) is 1100 mm.
Oblique ridges and valleys: markings
Another sheet to be cut is superimposed on the whole sheet. After installing the “devil,” its loosely secured boards rotate. Cross boards are installed horizontally, and the vertical board is inside lies on the valley (oblique ridge). After proper installation, the loose sheet is marked. The line must be drawn next to (parallel) with outside second vertical board, which does not lie on the ridge (endow). After this procedure, the sheet is removed. It must be cut strictly according to the markings and connected to the fixed sheet. Other sheets are mounted in a similar way.
Laying metal tiles: main points
- The sheet is secured at the point of contact with the sheathing, between the waves
- The bottom sheets are mounted to the initial lathing through the wave above the step
- Sheets of subsequent rows are attached at a minimum distance to the step
- From the end board, metal tiles are fixed into each wave
- The sheets must be pulled to the lathing
- In places of vertical overlap, the sheets are screwed with 5.5x19 self-tapping screws into the decline of the wave
Having figured out how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles, you need to pay attention to some of the nuances of sheet processing. Namely:
- When cutting sheets, it is forbidden to use grinders - you can burn through the coating, which will lead to corrosion
- Metal tiles should be cut using electric cutting shears, a hacksaw or a jigsaw with a metal blade. Hand scissors for metal are also applicable.
Damage to the polymer coating must be treated with paint.
Installing the end strip
The end strip has not only a decorative, but also a protective function. This additional element prevents sheet fastenings from loosening due to wind influences, and also protects the wooden parts of the structure from moisture.
To prevent moisture from getting under the coating, the top ridge must be covered with an end strip.
Upper valley: installation
The functional purpose of this element is to improve the appearance of joints, as well as to remove moisture from internal corner. When strengthening the upper valley with self-tapping screws, you need to make sure that they do not break through the middle part of the lower valley - this threatens to damage the waterproofing layer.
Junction strips: installation
On roof breaks
Roofing breaks are divided into two types: reverse and straight. When installing waterproofing on such a roof, you need to ensure that the coating is completely sealed.
If the slope has a straight bend, the sheathing boards are placed as close as possible to one another. The metal tile sheet should cover the fracture site, protruding slightly above it. The cornice strip can be used as a mating element. A sealant should be placed between the strip and the tiles.
If the roof has a reverse fracture, in this case a wall connection is used, which plays the role of a mating element. It is laid on the lower slope with the rolled side. At the break point, the sheathing boards should be as close to each other as possible. A sealant must be laid between the junction and the tile sheet.
Installation of an abutment to a wall is no different from a similar arrangement of abutments to chimneys.
Installation of external corners and ridge strips
The waterproofing film under the ridge is torn along its entire length by at least 20 cm in width. To eliminate this drawback, care should be taken to install additional waterproofing on additional boards (solid sheathing). At the same time, it should be at least 15 cm wider than the gap in the bottom layer.
The ridge is fastened to the sheathing of the upper ridge on both sides using special ridge screws. It must be screwed through the wave, the ends are insulated with plugs. In order for the ridge to be semicircular in shape, it needs to be extended by overlapping the stiffening ribs.
How to cover a roof with metal tiles: additional elements
Roof railing, walkway and staircase to the attic
This necessary details, which complete the main part of the roof installation. Install them according to the instructions that come with them. Where all these elements will be attached to the roof, a continuous sheathing must be installed. The bridge, fence and ladder are screwed with self-tapping screws through a rubber gasket into the deflection of the wave.
Snow catcher
This element is necessary to prevent ice and snow accumulating on the roof from falling down in large blocks. In the process of installing the sheathing in those places where the snow catcher will be located, bars are placed under the crest of the wave. A snow catcher is installed under the second transverse step of the sheet strictly parallel to the cornice.
When installing a snow catcher (its upper part), it is necessary to use a reinforcing strip. It is attached simultaneously with the upper edge of the element with ridge screws directly to the sheathing through the top point of each wave. The edge of the bottom is attached according to the same principle, only every second wave. If the slopes are large, snow catchers are placed in several rows.
Installation of gutters
Installation of a drainage system requires the following tools:
- marking cord
- screwdriver
- ruler or tape measure
- scissors and hacksaw for metal
- pliers
- rubber or wooden mallet
Before laying metal tiles on the eaves board or rafters, you must first install long hooks. If for some reason the hooks have to be installed after laying the covering, they are secured to the frontal board and made shorter in size. But this is not the most The best way, since fastening with long hooks is more durable.
The step between hooks of both the first and second types should be from 60cm to 90cm. Long distances are irrational, since in this case the structure may not withstand the pressure of the snow or ice mass. Where the junctions of the gutters are located, additional hooks are required.
To ensure better moisture drainage, the slope of the gutter should decrease by 5 mm with each linear meter. To complete this task, before installation you need to make markings taking into account the vertical displacement of the hooks.
When calculating the number of funnels, you need to keep in mind that one pipe should account for no more than 10 meters of gutter and 120 m2 of roof area. To ensure that moisture drains into the funnel, a V-shaped hole must be cut in the gutter. Its width should be no more than 110mm, and the distance from the cutout to the top of the gutter should be at least 15mm. The optimal gap between the funnel and the gutter end is 150mm. Installation process:
- the funnel should be placed on the gutter
- the fastening is done on the outside of the gutter; the lock must have a rolled side
- finally secured by bending the clamps in inner part gutters
The end parts of the gutter must be equipped with plugs (in case they are open and do not connect to anything). The junction of the gutter and the plug is processed silicone sealant. You can also use rivets.
Once the gutters are installed, it's time for the eaves trim. Its lower part should be in the gutter so that the front board does not get wet.
Water should flow into the gutter unhindered; this is ensured by a waterproofing film under the strip.
In order for the drainage system to function normally, a full inspection of all drains is carried out once a year, and cleaning of funnels and gutters from debris should be done regularly.
Roof grounding
The roof must be additionally grounded, regardless of the lightning rod. This ensures the safety of residents in the event of a direct lightning strike on the roof.
Completion of work: finishing touches
After completing the installation of the tile roof, it needs to be put in order: remove construction debris, treat damaged areas with paint to prevent rust. After three months, tightening the screws is mandatory.
During operation, metal roofing requires regular maintenance. Twice a year it needs to be cleaned of debris, dry leaves and other objects. This work is done with a rag or a soft brush. The fastest way to do the procedure is with a water jet - from top to bottom. To avoid damage, it is advisable to walk on the roof only in soft shoes.
A good roof is the key to keeping your home warm and dry. The service life of the structure and its reliability depend on how high-quality the material you choose and how well you place it. One of the most popular materials on the market is metal tiles.
Technical characteristics of metal tiles
Firstly, this material very easy to install. Secondly, it easily tolerates various atmospheric influences. Thirdly, it is able to withstand mechanical deformation.
The standard sheet width is one meter and 18 centimeters. The length ranges from half to eight meters. Interestingly, the useful width is only 1.10 m. The sheet thickness is in the range from 0.4 to 0.5 mm.
Attention ! Sheets with greater thickness have an increased service life.
On average, the service life of high-quality metal tiles, provided they are installed correctly and completely according to the instructions, is about 60 years. However, you must take into account that auxiliary materials, such as boards, sealant or insulation can deteriorate much faster. It's no surprise that your roof needs some cosmetic repairs from time to time.
Metal roofing is not subject to fire. Each sheet is lightweight, which greatly simplifies installation. It is also worth noting the versatility of the fastening system. It allows you to bring almost any design fantasy to life.
The color of the metal tiles you select will directly depend on the facade of the house. For example, brown tiles go well with red brick. At the same time, for comfortable installation, the roof slope can be only 14 degrees.
Attention ! Metal tiles are easy to repair. You can always tint it or replace individual sheets. This will allow you to restore the integrity of the entire structure at minimal cost.
The unique properties of metal tiles, if a certain area is damaged, make it possible to avoid installing the entire structure. It is not surprising that most summer residents choose this particular material for their roofs.
Typically, metal tiles are made from galvanized steel. In some cases, copper sheet is used. But in this case, the cost of the product increases several times. For the sake of objectivity, it is worth noting that installation of both types is equally simple.
If we talk about the latest trends in this market segment, then aluminum zinc is increasingly used for the manufacture of metal tiles. This material is considered relatively new. More precisely, it is ordinary a metal sheet, which is coated with an alloy of aluminum, silicon and zinc. As a result, the performance characteristics of the product increase. And installation is still not particularly difficult.
The weight of one square meter of metal tiles ranges from 3.5 to 5 kilograms. This allows for quick installation and easy lifting of roofing sheets even to great heights.
Installation
Stages
Before you begin such a responsible undertaking as installation, you need to know what you will have to do and in what sequence. At the moment, it is best to install metal tiles by performing the following steps:
- Take accurate measurements.
- Calculate the amount of material needed for the job. Don't forget to include insulation, insulation and fastening materials in your estimate.
- Install the rafter system.
- Install the curtain rod. The gutter hooks will subsequently be attached to it.
- Hem the roof overhangs.
- Install the fascia board, mounting hooks and gutter.
- Secure the counter battens.
- Lay down a waterproofing coating.
- Secure the battens along with reinforcing strips around the additional elements.
- Install the strips on which the cornice will subsequently be mounted.
- Take care of the apron around the chimney.
- Install the metal tiles yourself. Install windows if desired.
- Do end strip and top carpet, as well as outside corners and ridge strips.
You should also not forget about the arrangement work. Fences and walkways cannot be ignored. They will ensure your safety if you have to go onto the roof in the future.
Increased attention should be paid to the drainage system. The safety of the foundation of the house depends on how competently you do everything. Moreover, if you install pipes and take care of the tanks, every rain will supply you with water for irrigation.
Important ! Roof grounding is done using a busbar. At the same time, it goes separately from the lightning rod.
At the end of the installation of metal tiles, the roof surface is cleaned of dirt accumulated during work. Problem areas are also treated. For example, if the protective coating is scratched during operation, it can be easily restored.
In addition to external construction work, still need to do interior decoration. Usually it consists of laying thermal insulation. You also need to take care of the installation of counter rails. In order to prevent condensation from forming inside, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier.
Instructions on how to make calculations when installing metal tiles
Let's take standard galvanized sheets as an example. They have only one protective layer of coating, which can protect the entire structure from various atmospheric influences and mechanical damage.
Metal tiles are galvanized steel sheets with a protective coating. The full width of the sheet is always larger work surface by 80-120 mm, so when choosing a coating, you need to know exactly the size of the site on which the structure will be mounted.
When calculating, you need to take the length of the sheet and divide it by its width. Rounding is done up. Next you will need to measure the roof slope. The correct way to do this is from the bottom up. In the calculations, you need to take into account the cornice overhang, usually 0.05 m is enough. The overlap will be about 0.15 m for each row.
If you buy sheets directly from the factory, you can agree on individual sizes of metal tile panels. In this case, installation will be much easier and faster. However, you will have to pay extra for individual parameters. With this approach to installation, the amount of waste can be reduced. The point is that sheets can have different sizes. This, in turn, allows them to be installed more efficiently in particularly difficult places.
Important ! It is believed that the most optimal size sheet of metal tiles for installation 4-4.5 meters.
During installation, you need to place the sheets in such a way that the bevels are completely closed. Otherwise, rain moisture will penetrate inside the structure, gradually destroying it. Heavy rains will cause constant leaks.
Making rafters
First you need to calculate the step. It is best to use beams with a section of 150 by 50 millimeters for installing metal tiles. This is the optimal size. The gap between each sheet is 70-80 centimeters. If it increases, it will be necessary to install a sheathing.
Particular attention should be paid to the wood that you will use when installing metal tiles. Its humidity should not be higher than 22%. Also do not forget about antiseptic and fire protection treatment. This will protect the roof from possible fire, fungus and insects.
Curtain board, hemming hooks
When installing metal tiles, grooves are cut into the cornice board. The gutter hook will later be attached to this part of the roof. It will provide the entire structure with the necessary rigidity, thereby guaranteeing safety.
In order to hem the roof overhang and install the fascia board, you will need:
- rafter,
- metal tile sheet,
- waterproofing,
- strip under the cornice,
- frontal board.
By connecting all these elements, you can carry out further installation of metal tiles. Frontal board It is best to secure it with galvanized nails for greater reliability. It is attached to the ends of the rafters.
When installing metal tiles, you must take into account that the space under the roof must be ventilated. To make this possible, it is necessary to make ventilation slots. For filing, it is best to use corrugated sheeting.
The hemming block is placed on the wall at the same level as the lower part of the front board. You will need to lay boards between them. The result of your work will be the sheathing.
Important ! Ventilation holes needs to be isolated. Otherwise, they will become a home for birds.
The hooks are needed to place the gutters on them. Installation of these fixing elements is important part installation of metal tiles. They need to be attached to the cornice board.
First, the grooves are made. Only then is installation of the hooks carried out. The distance between them is equal to the distance between the rafter beams. The fastening is based on self-tapping screws.
Installation of lathing under metal tiles
Installation of the sheathing includes the installation of reinforcement strips. Also, for high-quality support of metal tiles you will need:
- rafter;
- waterproofing and vapor barrier film;
- counter rack;
- initial, vertical and horizontal sheathing;
- insulation.
When installing metal tiles, the initial sheathing is mounted under the top of the sheet. Its cross-section should exceed all other sheathing by the size of the wave height. Laying runs strictly parallel to the cornice
Important ! The distance between the two battens that are laid first should be 28 centimeters, between all the others 35.
Before installing the sheathing to support the metal tiles, you need to install fastenings for all additional structural elements. Otherwise you will have to break the entire structure.
When installing sheathing under metal tiles, special attention should be paid to the ridge strip. Two additional strips are nailed on top of the rafters. The distance between them should be 50 millimeters from each other.
Installation of snow guards on metal tiles
Tubular snow guards are mounted using special supports around the tiles. Initially, these structures were made of wood. Now the main material is steel.
Install snow guards on the metal tiles parallel to the cornice. The distance between them should be 0.5-0.8 m. Place wooden blocks at the fastening points.
Attention ! Some metal tiles are already equipped with special projections.
Results
As you can see, installing metal tiles with your own hands is a completely feasible task for every person. It is enough to follow the steps described in the article and use quality materials. The most important thing is to carry out the calculations correctly so that you don’t have to buy additional sheets or waterproofing film later.
