How to assemble wooden scaffolding yourself. How to make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. General structure of forests

From this article you will learn how to properly collect wooden scaffolding with your own hands - prepared for you step-by-step instruction. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional accessories for working at height.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders that is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:

Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure as much as possible and individual elements. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. Buy them for home use unprofitable, only rent is possible for a large amount of work (for example, on the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wooden scaffolding

The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports made of edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: It is unacceptable to use spliced cross members without additional support.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. Can be made from edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal links connecting racks of different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces maximum length to connect the largest number of racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude masters:

The foundation must be reliable. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
Each node has at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
Always install handrails with inside racks.
Apply front board(fencing near the deck).
The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
The pitch of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

To create a wooden scaffolding structure, you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal pitch (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

We sew the frame with a brace.
We prepare required amount"envelopes".
Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them diagonally maximum height so that they stand without support.
Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

Install the handrail and front board.
If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is carried out in reverse order— dismantling of flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer's scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

Sooner or later, construction reaches the finishing of the facade. And here the need arises to carry out work in the height range from 4 to 10 meters. After all, the gables need to be hemmed, the siding needs to be installed, the façade elements need to be painted, and drainage system install.

There is only one way out - to install scaffolding or a tower. But industrial building construction expensive, and the price of a tower with a working height of 8-10 meters is very steep. You can rent them, but if the work takes a long time, such a rental will cost a pretty penny.

Metal or wood

Scaffolding can be made of wood or metal. The practical experience of forum members suggests that building metal constructions It is economically feasible only if you have “free” hardware. If you buy metal, fasteners, study welding work, then such structures will ultimately cost more than factory ones and, especially, wooden ones.

While scaffolding can be carefully dismantled and the boards put into use, metal ones are doomed to gather dust in the utility room. Experienced builders will tell you that high-quality scaffolding or a tower can then be rented out. But few private developers will want to bother with this. Therefore, the majority of forum users still prefer wooden structures.

HukTo member FORUMHOUSE

Metal scaffolding is better than wooden scaffolding, but the main trump card of wooden scaffolding is the relative cheapness, simplicity and speed of their production.

Advice from FORUMHOUSE: it is better to build scaffolding yourself from wood from quality lumber. A quality board, unlike waste material, which will have to be thrown away after use, can be used in a new construction site.

DIY scaffolding for the home.

How to make scaffolding from boards

Before you start DIY wooden structures, it is necessary to decide on the scope of work. If in one case they can be the simplest - attached (for lining gables, siding country house etc.), then in other cases (finishing the facade with stone or brick, plastering work etc.) a more serious design is needed.

The dimensions of the base unit are as follows:

Length – 5 m;
Width – 1 m;
Height (thickness) – 3.5 m.

The construction took 60 linear meters boards 150x50mm.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

They are called "scaffolding - envelope".

DIY construction scaffolding

The design itself looks like the letter G attached to. A 150x50 board is taken as the basis, another board is nailed to it perpendicularly - a support platform, on which the flooring is then laid.
One of essential elements Such structures are jibs - boards 25-50x100, with which two main boards knocked together at right angles are sheathed on the sides.

Usually 3 jibs are nailed on each side. Thus, the rigidity of the entire structure is achieved.

Such forests do not need a rigid connection with the house. The force load is carried by the support board, which at one end rests against the place where the boards are attached, and at the other - the pointed end - is stuck into the ground.

If the house is wooden or frame, then the scaffolding can be nailed to the wall. If the facade cannot be damaged, then they are leaned against the wall, and the main load is carried by the supporting board.

When choosing the size of “envelopes”, you should adhere to the following requirements. If the site is too narrow, it will be difficult and dangerous to walk on it. If the platform is too wide, then the “envelope” may come off the wall. Optimal size platforms – 400-500 mm.

The main advantage of attached structures is that their manufacture does not require a lot of lumber.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

The supporting board and, accordingly, the height of the scaffolding can be increased. If the length of the board increases (more than 6 m), then for the rigidity of the structure, another board rests in the corner between the wall and the blind area, the other end of which is attached to the middle of the first - the main board.

Despite the fact that the design is widely known, at the first glance at such structures you doubt their reliability - it’s scary to look at! Let's turn to the practical experience of users of our site.

Zark member FORUMHOUSE

We call such forests “Armenian”. When I first saw such a design, I was surprised at how it even held up. I tried it, climbed onto the flooring - quite reliably. I myself have used attached scaffolding more than once, both on wood and on brick house. They are convenient, quickly assembled and disassembled. They don't take up much space.

Armenian scaffolding.

Drosha member FORUMHOUSE

This type of forest is quite safe. There is no need to attach the boards to the walls, but the flooring must be screwed with self-tapping screws to the supports (do not knock it down with nails, so that you can quickly disassemble it later).

How to Build Scaffolding for Heavy Duty Work

But such “Armenian” scaffolding is not suitable for all work - mainly for light work. They are good as scaffolding for painting a house, etc. For “heavy” work that requires working with tools, solutions, finishing the facade with stone, etc. a more permanent structure must be used.

The assembly of the structure is done as follows:

Take a six-meter board (150/200x50) and place it vertically against the wall;
A second board is placed parallel to it;
They are secured to each other by horizontal bars. Next, according to the same scheme, the second support is mounted and the flooring is laid;
For greater rigidity, the racks are supported by additional brace boards that rest against the ground;
As necessary, the scaffolding is increased in height by attaching additional vertical boards.

Standard dimensions of one span of such scaffolding:

The step between the racks is 2-2.5 m;
The width of the flooring for work is 1 m.

DIY wooden scaffolding.

diews FORUMHOUSE member

We made forests like this last summer. They were not attached to the wall. They placed only one wall at a time and then moved it. The main thing is to make braces and stops, and the structure will stand like a glove.

How to make scaffolding better: gpush against the screws

There is always a lot of controversy about how to put together scaffolding,
how to fasten the boards to each other. The opinions of forum members are divided: some believe that it can be assembled with self-tapping screws, others are categorically against it - only with nails.

The main argument of opponents of self-tapping screws is their fragility. The self-tapping screw does not work well under shock loads and shear loads. The result is that the cap flies off, the structure loses strength, even to the point of self-destruction.

How to build scaffolding for cladding a house.

Igor Kokhanov member of FORUMHOUSE

I recommend fastening everything with 120 mm nails with the obligatory bend of the tip on the crossbars and on the jibs. And no self-tapping screws! I'll tell you such a case. Builders I knew were doing the roof. They fastened the boards with self-tapping screws. The result is that the structures separated, all four of them flew from a height of five meters. The result is one in the hospital with broken kidneys. The second was a severe bruise to the leg. But they got off easily; if the altitude had been greater, everything could have ended much worse.

That's why this happened. The nail is made of relatively soft metal. Under load it bends and does not break. The self-tapping screw is made of hardened metal and under alternating and shock loads, it will first bend a little and then break. Moreover, the so-called “black” self-tapping screws, due to hardening, are much more brittle than anodized yellow ones.

For collapsible wooden structures, bolts with a hexagonal head (under a washer) with a diameter of 8 mm and special metal fasteners are well suited.

The main argument of opponents of nails is that it will no longer be possible to carefully disassemble scaffolding that has been nailed together, and part of a good board will have to be thrown out or put to waste. rough work. And the structural elements will be kept from shifting by the large friction force that occurs between the boards if you use self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm long. Therefore, you need to compromise - use self-tapping screws to collect scaffolding"to black." In this case, if an error occurs at the first stage of scaffolding collection, they can be quickly disassembled and rebuilt. And only then additionally nail everything together properly.

Traditionally, metal or wood is used to install scaffolding. Wooden structures are suitable only for one-time work. They have a simple structure, so anyone with basic woodworking skills can handle their assembly. Metal devices are reusable and dismountable; they can be reused on other objects. If you have the tools and knowledge of metal processing, it will be very easy to assemble scaffolding with your own hands.

Types of scaffolding

In addition to the type of material, scaffolding differs in functionality, fastening method and design. Based on these characteristics, structures are divided into several main groups.

Wedge

To connect the parts of the structure, a special wedge clamp is used. Such devices are very reliable, and, most importantly, durable. Their rigidity can withstand heavy weights and mechanical loads. Assembling wedge scaffolding with your own hands is very simple, and most importantly, after disassembling it is as easy to assemble as the first time. This design significantly speeds up and facilitates the work of lifting large loads and materials.

Frame

The basis of frame scaffolding is a rigid frame in the form of a frame. Similar devices are used in finishing and painting works. Horizontal and diagonal scaffolding elements are connected using knotted fasteners. The advantage of such forests is their low cost, they allow you to create convenient device without big expenses.

The parts of the pin scaffolding are fastened using metal pins. Such designs are most often used in conventional construction work due to the fact that they are more convenient to assemble on site. The time for assembling pin scaffolding depends on the length of the object; as a rule, the process does not take more than a day.

Clamp

For unusual buildings, complex structure clamp scaffolding is used. The frame parts are connected in a specific way, which is very popular in professional construction. An important characteristic in the installation and construction of drawings of such scaffolding is the pitch between the posts and crossbars. This distance is chosen depending on the configuration of the building and its dimensions.

General structure of forests

Regardless of the type of connection of parts of the structure and its type, all scaffolding consists of similar elements, such as:

vertical ribs (racks);
diagonal stiffeners (make the entire structure strong)
horizontal cross members;
jumpers for flooring;
a boardwalk for workers to move around;
stops that give the device stability and prevent it from falling back and forth;
safety guard to protect workers from falling during work;
ladder for moving between rows.

The number and size of elements varies depending on the scale and complexity of the object. To facilitate the assembly of the scaffolding, you can draw a schematic drawing.

Plank forests

Perhaps many builders and professionals have their own tricks for assembling and designing scaffolding; there are also many similar instructions on the Internet. Most of the structures do not differ in anything except the size of the racks and the thickness of the flooring. To understand such instructions, you should be guided by several dimensions:

the step between the posts is 2-2.5 meters;
the average width of the flooring is 1-1.2 meters;
the structure should not be higher than 6 meters.

Compliance with these rules will create functional and safe forests. To construct scaffolding with your own hands, you will need:

boards for thrust structures and beams 5-10 cm wide, you can use square and round beams;
material for spacers and protective structure 3 cm thick;
lintel boards and wooden flooring- 5 cm thick;
nails (it is not recommended to use self-tapping screws in such structures).

After preparing all the materials, you can begin assembly. First, 4 racks are fastened at a distance of 2-2.5 meters; to connect them, diagonal struts are used on all four sides. Then the lintel boards are mounted at the required level, and the flooring boards are attached to them. For protection, a fencing board is installed on the posts. The final stage- installation of supports and installation of stairs to reach the top of the scaffolding.

When assembling scaffolding from boards, it is worth considering the following nuances:

racks and supports are attached in parallel, their location is checked with a building level;
horizontal jumpers are used to attach the racks to each other;
Crossbars can be added to the protective railings for better protection.

To extend wooden scaffolding, several sections are used, and boards are used to fasten them together. Fastener boards are placed directly on the supports.

Advice! Often, when fastening with nails, wood cracks where the fasteners are immersed. To protect the boards from such damage, it is worth drilling grooves in the places where the nails will be driven in.

Metal profile scaffolding

Metal products are more convenient if you plan to build several projects. They can be disassembled at any convenient time and reassembled in a new place. To mount the simplest scaffolding with your own hands (height 150 cm, width 100 cm and length 165 cm), the following instructions will do:

When the work is completed, it is enough to remove the bolts and disassemble the scaffolding into frames. The service life of such a structure is tens of times longer than the service life of wooden scaffolding. And when proper care they can last long years.

Pros and cons of different designs

Construction devices are convenient when creating an object, but after the work is completed, the issue of their storage is acute. Even when disassembled, the structure takes up a lot of space.

Wooden devices can be dismounted, but this is not easy, especially if the boards were fastened with nails. And even plank scaffolding needs to be stored somewhere. In addition, in the places where the nails are attached, after disassembly, small cracks and crevices remain, which will contribute to rotting. Often solvent or paint remains on such structures.

Advice! If you still have dismountable metal scaffolding after construction, you can sell it at a good price or rent it out.

Scaffolding, assembled independently, are not suitable for working on large objects. As a rule, they are intended for buildings of 1-2 floors. Exploitation of forests at high altitudes is dangerous.

Such structures are used infrequently (for repairs or finishing of facades), therefore their installation is not always appropriate. Painting work can be completed without scaffolding.

Often scaffolding is made with a length of 6 meters, which increases its weight and cost. Such a structure will be problematic to move from place to place, and its disassembly and assembly will take a very long time.

Alternative to scaffolding

The assembly of scaffolding and its design should be thought through before building a house. If you will be hiring for finishing and repair work specialists, then you shouldn’t even think about how to make scaffolding. Typically, professional teams have a full range of equipment and tools, including scaffolding.

Often, when scaffolding is dismantled and after construction, scaffolding remains idle and is thrown away or sold. However, they may still be required for repairs or finishing works Oh. There are many other construction aids that can replace traditional scaffolding.

Before dismantling or renting out the scaffolding, you should make sure that the façade is in proper condition. Do not skimp on finishing work, otherwise you will have to restore the decorative layer. One of the most durable and easy to maintain facing materials considered a brick. Today you can find many varieties of this material, differing in colors, size and texture.

As a rule, others Decoration Materials(plaster, paint and paneling) will need frequent repairs, resulting in significant costs. To do this, you will have to hire a crew or rent scaffolding. If you have your own design from profile pipe for finishing work - you can save significantly on cosmetic repairs. To store such a structure, you can take separate room or build a simple shed.

All photos from the article

Are there any regulatory requirements to scaffolding used for laying walls and finishing facades? In this article we will get acquainted with the documents regulating their construction, and also find out how to assemble them correctly. homemade scaffolding made of wood.

Regulations

Scaffolding requirements are mentioned in passing in countless occupational safety manuals; however, any serious attention to their design is given in only two documents:

GOST 24258-88 describes the use of scaffolding during construction;
SNiP 12-03-99 is dedicated to labor safety in construction; Scaffolding means are mentioned in section 7.4 of this document.

Let us clarify: the section is devoted not only to scaffolding, but also to safety when using small-scale mechanization equipment and auxiliary devices in general.

Let's dive deeper into the requirements.

GOST 24258-88

First of all, GOST standardizes the design load on scaffolding depending on its type and the height of the site above ground level.

It will not be at all difficult for the owner of a private house to make scaffolding with his own hands if he has the skills to handle welding equipment and various tools. Prefabricated structures are needed to organize work on cladding and repairing the surfaces of building facades at height. The structure is erected along the entire perimeter of the house or at one of the facade walls.

Scaffolding is assembled from metal rods, timber, boards and wooden shields. The structure of the structures is a frame of vertical supporting elements with horizontal connections. The platforms are decking made of wooden panels or other materials. Message between at different levels construction is carried out using stairs. Scaffolding consists of structural elements such as:

Shoes.
Vertical posts and horizontal connections.
Flooring.
Railing.
Stairs.
Net.

Shoes

The supports for the vertical posts are shoes (thrust bearings). Typically these are metal platforms with vertical slots for racks. For horizontal correction of shoes, spacers and pads made of wood or metal are used.

The shoes are the ultimate structural elements scaffolding that transfers the entire load from the structure to the ground base. Before erecting scaffolding, it is necessary to accurately determine the locations for supports. The surfaces of the sites must be in the same horizon, otherwise the facade fencing will skew and the structure will become unsuitable for use. To prepare the support areas, use a level or laser level.

Vertical posts and horizontal links

The racks perform the main load-bearing function. For scaffolding small height within 2 - 3 storey building apply wooden beam. Racks made of metal pipes are much more often used.

Vertical supports are installed in stages - as horizontal connections are installed. Connections between frame elements are made in several ways. The main requirement for fastenings is to ensure the safe presence of people on the construction sites.

Flooring

Work platforms are formed from wooden, steel and aluminum panels. The flooring is laid on horizontal frames formed by frame elements.

The flooring, in addition to the role of supporting platforms, serves as connecting elements that ensure the rigidity of the entire scaffolding frame.

Railing

All openings facing outwards must have railings. Fences are made of 50x50 mm timber. The railings are located at a height from the flooring within 1.1 - 1.2 m.

Stairs

Transitions between different levels of platforms are made by installing stairs. Stairs can be completely wooden or welded from steel profile. Duralumin ladders are not uncommon when arranging forests.

It is advisable to install stairs at an angle of no more than 450. This allows a worker to easily move from one floor to another, while carrying any load.

Net

According to requirements building codes and rules (SNiP), all scaffolding must be covered with a net. The mesh is a fine mesh polymer coating Green colour(international standard).

The grid performs several functions simultaneously:

Prevents workers from accidentally falling.
Prevents various objects from falling out of the working area.
Protects from bright sunlight.
Protects the facade of the building during painting work from the penetration of dust from the outside.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands

There are certain standards for wooden scaffolding. The distance between the posts along the facade of the building is from 2 to 2.5 m. The width of the flooring, which determines the transverse size between the external and internal fencing of the scaffolding, must be at least 1 m. The height of the wooden structure must be up to 6 m.

To build a frame from lumber you will need following materials and tools:

Hand or circular saw.
Hammer and pliers.
Roulette and level.
Nails.
Wooden beam with a section of 100×100 mm, 50×50 mm.
Boards with a section of 100×30 mm, 100×40 mm.

The thickness of the lumber may be different, but not less than the above dimensions. The lumber must be dry, without large knots and cracks. Under no circumstances should you use raw wood. Besides that wet wood It is heavy and can become significantly deformed when dry.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

On a flat area, 4 beams are laid, cut to fit the height of the scaffolding.
Every 2 beams are placed between each other at the width of the flooring.
The racks are nailed down with crossbars. The transverse lower beams are fixed at a rate of no more than 50 cm from the ground. The top beams must be level with the deck.
The resulting frames are laid on their sides, securing the position with temporary supports.
The frames are connected by two boards diagonally.
The structure is turned over on the other side and the steps to secure the diagonal connections are repeated.
During assembly, the dimensions of the openings are constantly monitored with a tape measure.
Platforms made from sections of boards are nailed to the supports from below.
Roofing felt or roofing felt is laid in the places where the scaffolding will stand.
The scaffolding is raised to a vertical position so that the legs of the structure precisely fall into the intended places.
Using shims, the vertical marks of the supporting platforms are corrected.
Install the flooring. The flooring consists of longitudinal boards knocked down with a transverse beam.
The decking boards are nailed to the cross beams of the frame frames.
WITH outside of scaffolding, railings made of boards are nailed over the flooring.
A staircase leading to the upper platform is installed.
For convenient and safe movement of workers, stair railings are installed.
As the structure is erected, based on the individual characteristics of the facade, temporary fixation of scaffolding can be used using additional connections with the building elements. These are spacers, bevels and so on.

At the end of the work, the forests are disassembled into separate elements that can serve to meet other needs of the household plot.

Types of homemade scaffolding made from metal pipes

Supporting structures for scaffolding made from metal profiles may differ in the way the load-bearing elements are connected. These are wedge, clamp and pin fastening units.

Wedge forests

Connection units include support pads with mounting holes, which include wedge-shaped holders of supporting elements. Making such structures yourself is quite difficult and expensive.

Clamp fastenings

The frame rods are fastened with special clamps. The process is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming. The advantage of clamp scaffolding is that structures can “hug” facades of the most complex configuration without carrying out any complex work.

Pin designs

Due to their simplicity of design and high reliability, pin scaffolding is especially popular among home craftsmen. They are quickly assembled and disassembled. This feature of pin structures attracts amateur craftsmen.

Manufacturing and assembly of pin scaffolding

Before you begin making multi-level scaffolding from pipes, you need to prepare the following tools and materials.

Tools:

Electric welding unit.
Angle machine (grinder).
Electric drill.
Bending device.
Level.

Materials:

Steel pipes ø 48 mm.
Steel pipes ø 20 mm.
Steel sheet 12 mm thick.
Smooth reinforcement ø 16 mm.
Wooden beam 40×40 mm.

Step-by-step instruction

Smooth reinforcement is cut into pieces 40 cm long.
On a bending device, sections of reinforcement are bent at an angle of 450, obtaining support pins.
The device for bending the pins is made from two pieces of pipe. One is welded to a massive metal blank. A piece of smooth fittings is inserted halfway into the pipe. A long piece of pipe is placed on the other end of the pin and the reinforcement is bent.
A pipe ø 48 mm is cut into racks, the length being equal to the height of the scaffolding.
From a pipe ø 20 mm, a grinder is used to cut sleeves 200 mm long.
Using a tape measure and a marker, mark the places for welding the vertical sleeves.
The sleeves are welded to the vertical posts. On corner supports, the sleeves are placed at an angle of 900 to each other.
On ordinary racks, 3 sleeves are welded - in the center and on the sides.
Pins are attached to the horizontal sections of the pipe by welding, the free ends of which are facing down.
Shoes made of sheet steel measuring 20x20 cm are welded to the lower ends of the racks.
The height of the sockets (sleeves) is set in each individual case. Typically, nests are placed at a distance of 2 m from each other vertically.
The horizontal opening is made from 1.5 to 2 m.
Boards and timber are nailed into panels that will serve as flooring.
Where the flooring will rest on the outer beam, 2 pieces of timber are nailed to the shield from below. Wooden pieces are nailed to the boards so that the pipe beam passes between them. This will give additional stability to the entire scaffolding frame.
When joining panels, sections of steel angles are welded to the cross beam on both sides so that the horizontal flanges of the angles are flush with the pipe.
The pins of horizontal connections are inserted into the sockets.
In places where staircases will be adopted, openings are left between the flooring panels.
If it is necessary to extend the racks in height, then sleeves from pipes of larger diameter are welded to the upper ends of the supports, which form sockets for attaching the upper racks.
The stairs are welded from sections of the same pipes.
The racks are brought into a vertical position.
The pins are inserted into the sockets.
Lay the flooring.
Stairs are installed.

The scaffolding is ready for use. At any time, the structure can be quickly dismantled and its elements stored.

Assembly of clamp scaffolding

Structures of this type do not require welding. All connections are made by hand using steel clamps. The only tools you will need are wrenches.

Along with this, it should be noted that installing and removing clamps requires significant time. The cost of clamps is quite high. The assembly of such scaffolding will require a large amount of fasteners, which will significantly affect the cost of structures.

Painting metal scaffolding

When preparing pipe elements before installation, the structures are cleaned of rust. Good to use for this grinder with an emery wheel.

After this, the structures are primed with a product for external metal work. Dried pipes are coated with two layers of paint intended for steel products.

With intensive forest exploitation, metal elements tint once a year. If the scaffolding is stored disassembled, then the products are repainted as needed. Store forests in a dry, ventilated area.

Armenian forests

This is the popular name for simple devices in the form of wooden scaffolds. For laying walls made of brick or cinder blocks one-story houses, use a simple device consisting of triangles with right angles.

The triangular structure consists of two wooden panels, between which a console on an axis is placed. The console presses at one end vertical design one of the legs is to the wall of the building, and the other end rests on the ground. Two such structures form horizontal platforms on which the flooring rests.

Self-made “Armenian scaffolding” is far from safe, and must be treated with caution. The owner, using such scaffolding, puts his health at risk.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be rented out, which will quickly recoup all the costs of manufacturing the structures. When working at height, it is imperative to comply with safety requirements.