Many people have an old rusty ax without a handle lying around in their garage or pantry, which should have been thrown away or brought to life a long time ago. I suggest interesting solution to restore it and turn it into a stylized Viking axe.
Materials:
- unnecessary axe;
- an ax or a block for its manufacture;
- paper from self-adhesive film for;
- acetone;
- any varnish
- table salt solution.
Restoration and artistic processing of an ax
First you need to clean the ax by removing the top rust.
After this he is given new form to make it look like a Viking weapon. You will need to cut off the front corner of the blade, making it narrower. The back part needs to be rounded inward.
Trimming the ax in the front part is done with a grinder.
To quickly get the correct semicircle in the back, you should use a metal crown. Since it must be applied to the drilling surface along the entire perimeter, you will have to temporarily weld a piece of steel to it to increase the plane.
After drilling, the welded piece is cut off. The resulting workpiece already has the required shape, but looks rough. It needs to be sanded well. To do this, it is convenient to use a petal circle.
If deep potholes are exposed during the grinding process, they need to be hidden. To do this, the defect is welded and then ground off.
Using the available tool, you need to bring the ax to almost perfect smoothness.
The ax is stylized using artistic etching. Since this is a Viking weapon, it should be decorated with runes and ethnic Scandinavian patterns. For this laser printer The pattern chosen for etching is printed on a sheet of paper in a mirror image. To transfer the image, back paper from a self-adhesive film is used. You need to print on its glossy side, after tearing off the film.
The ax is wiped with acetone and placed in an oven preheated to 220 degrees Celsius.
As soon as it heats up, paper is glued to it and carefully smoothed through a cloth until the metal has cooled.
This is done on both sides of the axe. When it becomes cold, the stickers should be carefully torn off. As a result, paint will remain on the metal. Later, when etched, it will retain smooth steel underneath, and everything around it will become matte. Those parts of the ax that do not need to be etched should be painted with a thick layer of varnish.
A solution of table salt is prepared in a plastic or glass container. Any piece of iron with a wire attached to the negative terminal of the car battery is immersed in it. The ax is also lowered into the water, but with the positive terminal attached. As a result, the etching process will begin in the container, accompanied by the release of gas from the solution. Gradually the liquid will turn rusty in color and become covered with dirty foam. You should wait 30-40 minutes. If you etch longer, the matte part of the pattern will become deeper, but the pattern itself under the paint may begin to corrode.
Among carpentry and garden tools the ax always turns out to be one of the most in demand. Most likely, you won’t find a more universal tool. Over the several hundred years since the transformation of the ax into a modern axe, a whole tradition has developed on how to make an ax with a special sharpening, how to prepare and adjust an ax for a certain type of work.
How to make an ax an effective and versatile tool
There are several modern versions:
For your information! Of particular note is the cleaver with a very strong massive butt and a short blade. It is difficult to perform a full blow with such a cutter, so it can be classified as an auxiliary type of tool.
How to make a universal ax for yourself
The main problem that needs to be solved when designing a tool to suit your tasks and needs is to make right choice blades upon purchase.
How to choose the right metal
It is believed that only good spring steel with a deeply hardened blade can produce such a sound. In fact, what is important for a cutting edge is the toughness and elasticity of the steel, not the ability to sharpen the blade to a razor sharpness. It’s the latter that speaks of overheating and oversaturation of the metal with carbon. With this specimen you can make two or three demonstrative blows to demonstrate the sharpness, sharpened on the fourth blow cutting edge will split.
An ax made of tough manganese steel 50HGA would be much more successful. Such a tool is more difficult to make, but it will last much longer and is much more convenient to work with.
Universal version of the ax
If you are not professionally engaged in the construction of log houses, where most of the planking needs to be done with a carpenter's axe, buy yourself a good quality product made in the Republic of Belarus. Some of the enterprises still produce conversion samples of axes with excellent characteristics. All that remains is to decide how to make a handle for the axe. The best option the handle will be made of wood, choose elm or old acacia. From scraps you can make wooden case for an axe.
A forged blade is considered the best, but finding a decent Soviet copy is not so easy. Most old blades have a lot of hidden cracks, so if you come across a suitable one, don't hesitate to give a few hard blows to the nearest stump. Traces of cracks will definitely appear on the cutting edge.
The easiest way to make a choice is based on the presence of a mark on the cheek. The mark must be readable. Nice tools were done on forging equipment old post-war factories.
How to make an ax handle comfortable
The position of the handle depends entirely on the individual structure of the hands, and especially the palms. There are three ways to properly grip the handle:
- To work with one hand in a carpentry style, the grip must be 2/3 from the end of the axe. With this grip, the instrument in the hand must be completely balanced and balanced. To work with a carpenter's clew, the length of the ax must be selected based on the length of the arms;
- The width of the handle at the place of palm grip should be such that thumb and the other four fingers were almost touching in the grip;
- The angle of inclination of the blade to the ax handle should be 70-75° if you have to work in a vertical cabin, and 90° if you need to hew or chop horizontal surfaces.
Making a case for an ax correctly
Most simple option is a cover made of leather or wood with a fastener on the butt. This closes the cutting edge, allowing the tool to be carried safely.
For a more stylish look, you can make a holster-style ax case to simulate a combat weapon. Most often, such options are made of leather or its imitation, trimmed with rivets and ornaments. This option even involves wearing the instrument on your belt. The more complex the blade configuration, the more effort you need to put into making the case for the axe.
Do not confuse a real taiga ax and a simple, familiar type of tool that is often found in the tools of the house. Taiga ax- This special kind, which will help out even in the harshest hiking or hunting conditions. Finding such a tool at an inexpensive price is quite difficult, but if you have the skills, you can try to make it yourself.
Good strong knife– an indispensable companion for any hunter, huntsman, hiker or forester. But in some cases, its power and size in the forest, and especially in the Taiga, are not enough, or it is not very convenient to use. In this case, an ax comes to the rescue. Here are a few examples of actions where it can definitely come in handy:
- Tree and firewood cutting;
- Processing logs, such as peeling bark. An ax is not suitable for fine woodwork;
- Making hunting traps from wood;
- Installation of huts or simple wooden structures.
As you can see, all rough work with wood can easily be done with a taiga ax. With it you can arrange shelter, light a fire, and get loot.
A good taiga ax should be light enough so that its use brings results and not fatigue.
Typically the weight of the weapon does not exceed 1400 grams. The bulk, of course, is contained in the metal part.
Components of an ax
It is better to consider the features of the taiga ax in more detail by familiarizing yourself with its characteristics components. These include: a metal head and an ax handle.
Metal head
The first striking difference between the metal part of the taiga ax and the usual carpentry tools, is the absence of the upper part. The blade also has a rounded shape rather than a standard straight one. This helps it penetrate deeper into the wood. And also, if you have such a blade, you can use the tool to chop logs not along, but across the fibers.
The existing long beard firmly fixes the head with the ax handle, thereby reducing the risk of its fracture. It absorbs impact power up to 50-60%. This is very important factor in conditions wildlife, where there is no way to quickly repair a broken weapon.
The taiga ax has a standard head. The head also has an eye where the ax handle is inserted. For tight fixation, a wooden wedge is additionally hammered in.
Toporische
This part of the tool should be longer than that of a regular carpenter's type. It is desirable that this figure be at least 50 cm. This will allow you to comfortably hold the weapon and carry out sweeping actions.
When connecting two parts of the tool, it is necessary to take into account that the angle of inclination between them should not be the usual 90 degrees, but a smaller figure. You can roughly focus on 65-75 degrees. And another important criterion is that the ax handle, given its length, should be as light as possible. Otherwise, your hands will quickly get tired of working with the ax.
How to make a taiga ax
Unfortunately, not everyone can forge a new ax from steel. But if the desire to own a real taiga ax is great, and the prices in stores seem too high, you can try making it from ordinary carpentry tools.
Making the tool head
Before you start working with the metal head of a conventional axe, it should be inspected for corrosion. If it is available, then it is better to soak this part of the tool in a container with vinegar. This will take at least a day. Remaining substances are removed using a regular brush.
A semicircle is cut out on the inside of the metal head, this allows you to make the girth comfortable The rest of the procedure proceeds as follows:
- The front protrusion of the metal part is cut off. This must be done flush with the butt. If there is a protrusion of 5-7 degrees left, then it’s okay, but ideally it’s better to remove it;
- Using a Bulgarian saw or an emery wheel, cut off the back of the blade, giving it a rounded shape;
- A semicircle is cut out on the inner or, one might say, lower part of the head. This will not only make the grip of the instrument comfortable, but also significantly reduce its initial weight;
- You can skip this step, but if you want to comply with all the conditions for the construction of a taiga ax, then it is better to comply with it. Both corners of the butt are cut off. This step increases the maneuverability of the gun;
The metal head of the ax is ready, all that remains is to sharpen it correctly.
Making an ax
It is necessary to pay attention to the manufacture of the ax no less than the metal part. After all, from correct geometry The ease of use of the tool will depend.
This part of the weapon is made of wood. The simplest option is pine due to its light properties grinding and processing. But there is a risk of its rapid breakdown. You should also pay attention to types of trees such as birch, maple and ash. The length is chosen at personal discretion: from 50 to 80 cm. In some cases, a size of 100-120 cm may be more convenient.
The process of making an ax includes the following steps:
- The blank from which the ax handle will be made is determined. Its diameter must be at least 13 cm, and its length must be 20 cm longer than the final version;
- The workpiece is cleaned. Then they split it exactly in the middle and leave it to dry for a long time, preferably at least 8 weeks. It is important to consider that the humidity in the room should not be too high, and the desired temperature should be kept within 22-25 degrees;
- The dried workpiece is processed using a chisel. A small hammer can also come in handy for this matter. At this stage, it is important to maintain the correct shape of the ax handle, which means it is better to look at the drawings and diagrams.
If this is your first self-made ax, then it is better not to rush to avoid mistakes in the shape. Professionals in this field will need a minimum of time.
Assembling an ax
When both parts of the tool are ready, all that remains is to connect them. For this they usually use epoxy resin and a piece of regular gauze or medical bandage. For additional fixation metal head on the ax handle, hammered wooden wedges.
You won’t be able to use the tool right away; you need to wait at least 2 days. In order to protect the ax from corrosion, after sharpening and polishing it should be coated special means. The taiga ax is ready for use.
Sharpening rules
A good hunter or forester always has a sharp ax, because there is nothing worse than being in the forest with a blunt weapon. As mentioned above, the blade sharpening of the taiga species is distinguished by its rounded, steep shape. This allows the blade not only to work on wood more efficiently, but also to become dull less often.
Manual method
It’s a rather labor-intensive process, but for those who like to take care of their tools, it may, on the contrary, come to their liking. To begin with, a special template is made according to the dimensions of the tool. They make it from a piece of tin, defining correct angle sharpening. The ax is applied to the finished template. And if there is a deviation angle, then they mark it and process it.
For manual sharpening often take wooden block and cover it with sandpaper. It must be coarse and fine-grained. Sharpening is done with the blade facing away from you. It is noted that one such timber can be enough for the entire season.
Mechanical
If you have a special machine the process will go much faster and easier. But there are also some nuances here.
Mechanical sharpening is carried out as follows:
- Place the machine on a flat surface;
- Using a marker, marks are made to change the angle of the blade. This step is done when necessary;
- Sharpen at low speed, holding the ax with the blade away from you;
- At the end of the process, grinding wheel devices are lubricated with finishing paste. Then the tool is polished on it;
- The sharpened tool is treated with an anti-corrosion agent.
To prevent the ax from becoming dull quickly, it should be stored in a special protective case. You should never throw an ax on the ground. And in order to protect yourself from possible injuries, it is necessary to sharpen the tool while wearing protective gloves.
The ax will please you with its performance for a long time, if you do not try to chop stones and too hard objects with it. And also when cutting, it is best to place a little wood under the wood.
Lately there has been a real boom in blacksmithing. Young people are becoming blacksmiths. The knives and axes made by their hands are real works of art.
Nothing is impossible
Looking at the work of blacksmiths, the thought comes to mind that there is nothing difficult in making an ax. But in practice, this turns out to be much more difficult.
In addition to a piece of metal for forging an ax, you need: a forge, an anvil, holes for the eye. Not everyone has such a set of tools. Of course, you can make a forge and punches, but you can also try to make an ax in a different way.
Making an ax using the metalwork method
Ideas on how to make an ax outside the forge lead to the metalworking method. The ax consists of three parts:
- ax blade
- ax handle
If everything is clear with the materials for making an ax and a wedge, then the question of what, and most importantly how, to make a canvas is puzzling. Knowing that the blade consists of a blade and a butt, you understand what is needed to make an ax:
- metal strip for blade
- piece of pipe for butt
Blade
The full size drawing will show the quantity required material. The blade requires a hard metal, such as a car spring.
We transfer the outline of the drawing to the spring and saw off all the excess. We also make descents using a grinder. It is important here not to overheat the metal so that the edge remains hard and holds an edge well.
Butt
For the butt of a medium ax you will need a pipe with an internal diameter of 38-40 mm. It is better if it is thick-walled. We cut the pipe to size from the drawing. Then we heat it up, for example gas burner, and compress it in a yew to give it a more rectangular shape.
Assembly of the canvas
The blade and butt are connected by welding. It is important to weld the metal thoroughly so that the ax does not crack during operation.
Then we grind the seam with a grinder, if necessary, boil the shells, and grind again. For additional strength, you can rivet the butt and blade with strips of metal.
Toporische
A good ax requires the presence of a properly made ax handle. To the question - what can an ax handle be made from, there is a simple answer - from hardwood.
The most common wood for making ax handles is birch. But, if you make an ax not only for chopping wood, but for the soul, then you should look for a type of wood with a more expressive texture.
Wood for an ax
An ax handle made of ash, elm, or hornbeam will look very beautiful. It’s just difficult to buy boards made from such types of wood in some regions, especially in the outback. Of course, you can use online trading.
The wood for the ax must be well dried and free of knots. At home wooden plank dried at room temperature within six months
The longer the wood dries, the stronger the ax handle will be. According to custom, wooden blanks were dried for years in the attics of houses.
Action plan
Drawing up instructions on how to make an ax handle with your own hands allows you to break the process into elementary steps. A compiled list of actions will help you avoid mistakes and improve the quality of the result. This is especially important if you are doing something for the first time.
Note! 
The step-by-step process on how to make a pen at home will look like this:
- drawing up a sketch of an ax and a template
- wood processing
- ax attachment
- finishing coating.
Sketch and template of an ax
For comfortable work, the ax handle is made about 50-70 cm. Having drawn a full-size sketch, it is easier to imagine the proportions of the future ax. Next, we transfer the drawing to plywood or thick cardboard and make a template.
Roughing
Using the template, we outline the outline of the handle on the wood and cut out the blank. Give the handle a more rounded shape. For these purposes, you can use a plane, chisels or a small hatchet.
Fit
The next stage in making an ax handle is adjusting the shape and ergonomics. We grind the wood to give it the correct shape and comfortable grip.
A large rasp, as well as a power grinding tool, are perfect for these purposes. The main thing here is not to loosen the place where the ax fits on the ax handle.
Note! 
Sanding and assembly
After rough processing, sand the handle sandpaper and make a slot for the wedge. Place the ax on the handle and drive in a wedge. Many people advise mounting the wedge with glue or epoxy resin. The choice is yours.
Finishing
The assembled ax is carefully polished with fine sandpaper. The wood can be covered with stain or left as is. The protective layer is applied with oil or varnish.
For greater exclusivity, the ax handle can be decorated with carvings, inlays or wire notches. A pattern etched in a saline solution will look beautiful on the ax blade.
Conclusion
It is very easy to purchase an ax for chopping wood, and there is no need to make it yourself for these purposes. Homemade axes are more used as a subject of creativity, but it is capable of fulfilling its direct duties.
Some independent specimens will give industrial designs a run for their money, giving owners a reason for pride and pleasure from the work done.
Photo of a homemade ax
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