How to plant plum trees and care. Lilac, ripe, garden - the secrets of proper planting of plums in the fall. Root removal process

Plums are grown in every garden. This fruit tree has a beautiful crown, tasty fruits, proper care gives large yields. Let's talk about the intricacies of growing plums.

Description and characteristics

Plum is in the top five popular fruit crops. Distributed in northern temperate latitudes, contains 250 species.

In Russia, the domestic plum is widespread, with 160 varieties; a group of Russian plums crossed with cherry plum is also cultivated - 56 varieties, Chinese and Canadian - 31 varieties. The fruits have different taste and color:

• lilac,
• burgundy,
• blue,
• dark purple,
• yellow
• dark red.

According to research by the Russian Agricultural Academy on the study of the quality and regularity of fruiting, the following varieties have taken high positions:

• Super early.
• Yakhontovaya.
• Interesting.
• Kuban Comet.
• Tula Black.

Planting plum

Let's look at all the landing steps step by step.

Place

Boarding begins with choosing a location. Plum does not respond well to wet soils and shade, if you want to get decent harvests- these places need to be excluded. Earth is not the best important factor- the tree will grow well on any soil.

Main soil condition:

• looseness,
• moisture permeability,
• fertility.

When considering acidified areas, they need to be limed:

• dolomite flour;
• fluffed lime (on square meter 0.8 kg is added for digging);
• ash.

It is better to plant plums in the spring before the leaves open. If the work falls in the fall, then this is done in advance of frost (September-early October).

A seedling purchased in the fall can be buried and planted in a permanent place until spring. To preserve it, cover it with fallen leaves and spruce branches before frost. After the snow falls, create a snow bank over the baby.

Planting pit

Having decided on the location, we begin to dig a planting hole. Do it at a distance of three meters from neighboring trees, on the south side of them. If you plan to plant a plum row of several seedlings, also leave 3 meters between them.

Ideally, the pit is prepared in the fall; if you have not done this, then two weeks before planting. Diameter 70–90 cm, depth - 50 cm. On poor soils, all the soil is completely removed and the hole is filled with nutritious soil + mineral fertilizers.

Dressing mixture:

• topsoil;
• a bucket of rotted manure/compost;
• a glass of double superphosphate;
• two or three handfuls of ash;
• half a glass of potassium chloride or sulfate.

Planting stages:

1. Drive a stake into the empty hole to further secure the young tree.
2. Pour soil into the bottom in the form of a tubercle.
3. Place the roots on a raised platform and straighten them.
4. The root collar should remain on the surface 3–5 cm.
5. Fill the soil in sections, lightly tamping along the edges.

When placing a seedling in a hole, make sure that the fixing stick/stake is on the north side. When tying, place a piece of fabric or rubber against the bark - this will eliminate the possibility of chafing.

When the hole is completely filled, create a trunk circle roller made of earth. It will not allow water to spread during watering.

Water the tree thoroughly:

• 3-4 buckets will be required;
• you need to pour out in three doses, after the first portion is completely absorbed;
• then the soil is mulched with peat;
• in dry weather, the second watering is done after 10–12 days (2–3 buckets).

Plum care

Growing a plum tree consists of several aspects: pruning, fertilizing, summer watering, and pest control.

Rule 1. How to trim

Seedlings should not grow without your participation. Having planted a plum tree on a plot, it needs to be shaped. Only then will it please with good earnings.

In the first years, a seedling always grows unevenly: the side branches may be longer than the crown. This process must be controlled by you; for this, regular pruning is carried out.

The crown can be formed in several ways:

Photo	Description
	Sparsely tiered crown Growth needs to be shortened, bringing the crown closer to in the required form. Branches directed towards the center, creating thickening, are removed. A 4-year-old seedling should have skeletal branches, usually 8–10 branches. To do this, leave no more than 10 high-quality shoots extending from the trunk with a slope of 45 degrees, remove all unnecessary ones. On all tiers, branches are shortened by one third.
	Vase-shaped crown In the second year after planting, the central conductor (trunk) is docked. Subsequent pruning removes leading branches that want to become conductors. This helps reduce crown height. In the future, you remove low-lying branches, all tops and shoots going to the middle and vertically. Such a crown warms up well in the sun and produces high yields.

A properly formed tree that has entered fruiting has an annual growth of 40 cm. For better formation of fruit buds, such shoots are shortened by a third. It's done in early spring(late March-April) or until the buds open.

A plum with an annual growth of 25–30 cm signals a lack of strength and needs thinning. The one-year shoot is left in its entirety, and the lateral branches on the underside are sawed off into 2-3 year old wood.

An increase of 10–15 cm appears in a weakened old tree. This issue is resolved by rejuvenating pruning of thick branches at 4–5 years of age on the lateral branching.

Rule 2. What to do with shoots

Trees that have come into force begin to grow root shoots. These shoots coming from the main root deplete the tree and spoil the decorative appearance of the lawn - they need to be removed.

The process consists of digging out the soil, preferably right down to the mother root - the beginning of the growth. Correct removal is done in this place.

Not wanting to do such a painstaking task, you cut off the above-ground part, leaving a stump. Not one, but several sprouts will “pop out” from this place. You won't solve the problem.

Root shoots are root cuttings, material for propagation and clonal rootstock. They can be dug up and transplanted to another place.

Another option, if your tree has been severely damaged by frost or the sprout has grown to three meters in length, you can leave it without digging it up and a new plum will grow, which will be re-grafted. Root shoots are the most effective method reproduction.

Rule 3. Watering and fertilizing

• In the first two years you only do regular summer watering.
• Fertilizers will be needed in the third year after planting.
• Phosphorus and potassium should be added during autumn digging.
• Starting in the spring of the fifth year, after flowering they are given in liquid nitrogen solutions.

It is useful for young trees to be watered with mullein infusion. Feeding is carried out in the summer during the period of fruit set - June. Acidic soils Lime with fluff or dolomite flour once every 2–3 years.

A sign of nitrogen deficiency is pale foliage - irrigate the crown with a solution of nitrate/urea 2 tbsp. l. +10 liters of water.

Curling leaves, brown spots - lack of magnesium and potassium.

High-quality watering soaks the soil to a depth of 40–50 cm. In summer, during the fruiting period, mature tree 5 buckets of water should be used. For high yields, make a stand for the branch from a horned shelf.

Plum can be affected by diseases: coccomycosis, gray rot, curl, gommosis and others. In this case, the tree is sprayed with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Plum cultivation - fruits

It is difficult to imagine an orchard without plums. It is a heat-loving tree and does not grow well in wetlands. Also, the plum should grow at sunny place in order for the fruits to be sweet, so the planting site must be chosen carefully. With proper care, it begins to bear fruit after 4-5 years.

Plum planting and care that require special attention, is the most capricious tree of all fruit crops. Even if it blooms and grows well, this does not mean that there will be a bountiful harvest.

Choosing a landing site

Plum does not like stagnant water, so you need to choose an elevated place for planting, especially when the site is in a low-lying and swampy area. Usually it is planted on the south side, as it loves the sun very much and is not shade-loving.

Soil preparation

Light loamy soil or black soil is suitable for planting plums. If nothing has grown in the chosen location for a long time, then it is recommended to dig up the area within a radius of two meters from the center and 30 cm in depth or use a device for aerating the soil.

Standard sizes pits: 1 m in diameter and 0.5 m deep. The excavated soil is mixed with manure. It is not recommended to apply any mineral fertilizers to the soil. If desired, you can add a little sand and gravel (they warm up in a short time and help the root system develop faster). The resulting mixture is returned to the pit, leaving a small part for backfilling.

Planting seedlings

Planting of plums in spring occurs during the period of swelling of the buds on the seedling (early April). A peg is installed in the prepared hole, which is necessary to support the young plant.

The seedling is lowered and sprinkled top layer soil so that the root collar is 5 cm above the ground. The soil is lightly compacted by hand, and the young trunk is tied to a peg. It is important that it is located strictly perpendicular to the surface of the earth.

Under no circumstances should young plum plants be planted in the shade of other trees. Otherwise, their development will be slow and the leaves will lose color. The required distance between pits is approximately 3 m. If planting occurs in rows, then there should be the same gap between them.

Features of care

Caring for plums in spring involves correct pruning, necessary fertilizing and regular watering.

Trimming

It is an integral part of care. In the first few years, the plum grows very quickly, so during this period it is important to correctly form its crown. The tree has a straight stem and long side shoots.

When active growth begins, you need to select a dozen main branches. They should be at an even distance from each other and at an angle of 45º from the trunk. They are shortened by 1/3 of their own length. Branches with a lower slope are more prone to brittleness, so they are pruned along with the rest of the shoots to prevent the tree from thickening.

Fertilizer and watering

Caring for plum trees in the first two years after planting does not require fertilization if the soil is rich in minerals. But it is very sensitive to a lack of potassium and nitrogen, which is reflected in the appearance of a brown color on the leaves. If such signs are present, it is recommended to add ammonium nitrate (30 g/m²) to the soil, after diluting it in a bucket of water (10 l).

Plums (starting from the 3rd year) are best suited for feeding organic fertilizers. For 1 m² of soil, use up to 1 kg of manure or compost and 200 g of ash (after application, water generously).

The feeding procedure is carried out 2 times a year: in early spring to stimulate tree growth, and in early summer, when the ovaries are formed.

Care also includes watering the plum. Young trees require frequent but less irrigation. They are moistened 4-6 times per summer season 5-6 buckets of water. Mature fruit-bearing trees - from 3 to 5 times 10 buckets.

If the plum tree is already producing a harvest, then it is best to put supports under the branches to avoid breaking them. For better care gardeners advise wrapping the trunk with burlap for the winter and periodically shoveling snow under it, forming protection from wind and cold.

Plum propagation

Plum cultivation is carried out in several ways:

• root shoots;
• shoots;
• seeds.

Growing from root shoots

To do this, you need to step back from the trunk about 1 m and dig out a root 1.5-2 cm thick. It is cut into pieces 15 cm long. The procedure is best done in the fall. The resulting material is covered with sand and kept in the refrigerator throughout the winter.

In early May, you can plant it in the ground, covering the planting site with film to create greenhouse conditions. It is necessary to ensure constant soil moisture. When sprouts appear in a month, the film can be removed. Growing a plum from shoots to seedlings takes about 2 years, so it is rarely used.

Reproduction by shoots

The most effective and proven method. Around the plum trunk, young vertical shoots begin to sprout from the roots, which are shoots. It is better to choose those that are located further from the trunk; they form a good root system.

They are cut off, leaving a shoot height of 20 cm, and the cut site is treated garden varnish so as not to introduce infection into the sprout. Afterwards, they are planted in the ground to build up the root system, then transplanted to the main place.

Growing from seed

Having selected good and ripe fruits, the bones are cleared of pulp, washed and soaked in clean water for 4-5 days. Then dried and stored in a jar. Germination can begin in October.

A stratification procedure should be carried out (cold treatment, which helps soften the hard shell of the bone). For this planting material wrapped in a damp cloth with sand and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator (a basement, cellar or any other cool and damp place will also work).

Under no circumstances should the fabric be allowed to dry out, as this can lead to the death of the sprouts. In the spring they are planted in the ground under a film, just like root shoots.

Bottom line

Growing plums requires a lot of effort and special care. But if you follow the proven advice of experienced gardeners, the result will not be long in coming. You can reap a good harvest within 4-5 years after planting and enjoy tasty and healthy fruits.

Plum is a rather unpretentious plant, so growing it does not cause any particular difficulties. To get a rich harvest, it is important to know how to properly plant and care for plums.

Planting a plum seedling can be done in autumn or spring. Depending on the region, the landing dates vary. If the seedlings manage to take root normally before the arrival of winter frosts, then even in the cold season it will be much easier for them to grow and develop.

In the first months after planting, the plum tree is highly sensitive. To increase the survival rate of the plant, it is important to adhere to the replanting technology that has been repeatedly tested by gardeners: autumn planting tree provides higher survival rate.

The circumstances of autumn planting give it some advantages over spring planting:

• fresh planting material;
• the soil compacted by the time the awakening began;
• low sensitivity to damage;
• no intervention during spring activation.

A seedling grown in the fall develops much better. Its fruiting begins a season earlier than the tree planted in the spring. It is also important that the seedling purchased in the fall was removed from the nursery at the end of the growing season: the root system does not react to damage when dug up for replanting.

Seedlings sold in the spring can spend quite a lot of time with the seller. For this reason, the tree may begin to activate growth even before it enters the ground.

The viability of the seedling is greatly weakened by this, and it may begin to wither. As a result, the plant begins to hurt after planting, may not be accepted and may die. Growing a plum from a spring seedling requires pre-soaking the tree.

The optimal time for planting plums is mid-October. In spring it is recommended to plant plums in middle lane Russia, since young trees may not have time to fully grow when planted in autumn and will freeze in the winter.

But if the climate is not particularly harsh, a plum tree can be grown in central Russia. In this case, you should not overuse fertilizing, which leads to excessive growth of branches and provokes burns of the roots.

Choosing the best variety

For normal growth and development, the plum tree requires certain conditions. Betting on the right variety increases the survival rate of the tree and the chances of high yield.

Thanks to the work of breeders, a large number of varieties adapted to different soil compositions and climates have been developed. To grow a productive tree, you should choose seedling varieties that can survive in certain conditions.

To do this, it is important to know which varieties of plums are popular in your region. There is a possibility of choosing out of ignorance productive variety, unable to tolerate drought or frost in the region.

Modern varieties of plums are distinguished by a wide variety. The most popular among them:

1. Belarusian - tree small height with a rounded crown and large sweet and sour fruits weighing up to 50 grams, begins to bear fruit in the 5th year from the moment of planting, at 10 years of age the yield reaches 30 kilograms per tree.
2. Hungarian common is a plum variety with medium-sized trees and fruits. It begins to bear fruit in the fifth year, the fruit reaches a weight of 30 grams. To agricultural technology special requirements the variety does not show any signs and is characterized by increased frost resistance. In practice, the maximum yield from one tree per season can reach 40 kilograms.
3. Hungarian Italiana is a medium-sized tree with fruit weighing 30-40 grams. Excellent shape retention warm weather, and in cold weather they are susceptible to cracking. The harvest is irregular: this variety is characterized by early flowering, which at low air temperatures leads to poor fertilization. This variety begins to bear fruit in the 4th year.
4. Large-fruited - a tall tree with a beautiful pyramidal crown and light yellow fruits with some redness. The fruit is impressive in size, weighing up to 65 grams. At about 4-5 years, the plum tree begins to bear fruit. From a 10-year-old tree you can collect about 25 kilograms of fruit with excellent taste.

In the middle zone, more intensive cultivation of plums is hampered by insufficient winter hardiness. It is for this reason that it is important to select frost-resistant varieties for planting and growing trees in this region.

Choosing a landing site

Before planting a plum, it is important to choose for it the best place. Do not forget that the tree will grow on it for decades, and future productivity largely depends on it.

It is advisable that competitors that suck nutrients from the soil do not grow nearby. The planting site should be well lit by the sun, but partial shade is also allowed. Sufficient light is important for fruit ripening, so it is impossible to produce full fruit in complete shade.

Well-drained loamy, moist soils rich in nutrients are suitable for planting plums. Trees planted on cold, heavy, alkaline, acidic, waterlogged soils develop poorly, bear fruit poorly, and often suffer from frost.

Dry sandy and saline soils and heavy loams are unsuitable for planting this crop. Clay soil prevents plum roots from penetrating beyond the planting hole and into depth, their location remains superficial.

Plum is a moisture-loving crop, but does not tolerate excess moisture well. The location of groundwater on the site should not rise above 1.5-2 meters from the ground surface.

Soil preparation

The soil on the site that does not meet the requirements necessary for growing plums must be dug up deeply, mineral and organic fertilizers and sand must be added.

To feed the future fruit tree, it is good to add rotted manure to the soil. Land cultivation for correct landing plums need to be carried out to a depth of about 40 centimeters.

Selecting seedlings: what to look for?

One- and two-year-old plum trees are suitable for planting. When purchasing seedlings, you need to carefully examine the root system, which should be well developed, and the root itself should be dug out of the soil as much as possible. Trees with the main root cut off too close to the trunk should not be selected.

The seedling should have a thickness of 1-2 centimeters or a little more. As an exception, deviations are quite acceptable: seedlings of some plum varieties, even at the age of 2 years, can be thinner than 1 centimeter.

In autumn, plum trees are propagated after the vegetative cycle has ceased, when the seedling has prepared for the coming winter and has completely shed its leaves.

Plum planting technology

Compared to spring, autumn planting of plums requires significantly less effort.

It is advisable to prepare the pit in advance by digging a hole measuring 60x60 centimeters and the same depth a few days in advance.

It is enough to add 3-4 kilograms of ordinary humus mixed with soil from the pit in a ratio of 1:10. About a bucket of such a mixture is poured into the bottom of the pit.

When planting, the trunk of the tree is lowered into a hole and placed on top of a mound of humus and earth, and its roots are evenly spread along the slopes.

After this, the hole is filled to the edge with earth, and no more than 10 liters of water are poured on top to compact the soil.

A few weeks later, before the first frost, the seedling needs to be protected from freezing. For this purpose, the filled pit is covered with straw and using tarpaulin, slate or sheet metal protect against moisture penetration.

To wrap the tree trunk itself, you should use a film or bag. This precaution will only need to be taken in the first year after planting the seedling. This will protect it from freezing, so that it can take root well in early spring and begin to actively grow.

Plum care

Caring for plums after planting open ground no different in complexity. When spring warmth arrives and severe frosts recede, the tree needs to be opened from the film or burlap with which its trunk and branches were wrapped.

In the first year of life, tree care is quite simple. The gardener must provide the young plant with the correct direction of growth. For this purpose, a stake is driven near the trunk, to which the tree is tied. The correct direction given in the first year of a plum’s life allows you to achieve a straight trunk without bending.

In the first year, it is important to pay attention to planting and watering the tree, after which it will become much easier to care for it. A tree growing in good soil can do without additional annual autumn fertilizing: you only need to timely prune dried branches, harvest and remove fallen leaves.

The formation of a tree crown is necessary for its proper development. The crown should be of medium density, the top should be open to illuminate the internal branches. Optimal height tree - about 2.5-3 meters. When the tree reaches 2.5 meters in height, you need to gradually bend the central conductor to the east, tying it to the branch below.

In case of high yield and too much load fruit branches on the tree, it is necessary to strengthen them with supports. The contact points between supports and branches must be insulated with rags, roofing felt, tow or other soft cushioning material. Otherwise, if damaged by the support of the tree bark, gum formation may begin.

Tree trunk circle

The trunk circle, the size of which must be at least 2 meters for a plum, requires careful care. The soil around the trunk must be regularly loosened, removing weeds in a timely manner. It is important to regularly uproot root growth: by weakening the tree, it negatively affects the yield.

To slow down the formation of new shoots, remove root shoots recommended 4-5 times per summer. The soil around the tree should remain moist; complete drying should be allowed only before the next watering. This will serve as protection against rotting of the root system.

Watering

Regular watering is one of the main components good care behind the plum tree. It is recommended to start periodically watering the plum tree after the buds awaken.

In the spring and summer, you need to water the plum tree 3-5 times, using 3-4 buckets of water per 1 square meter. The intensity of watering directly depends on weather conditions, timing of fruit ripening, age of trees.

The tree needs watering most of all after flowering, when the fruits are set and the ovaries are growing intensively. Also, plum trees especially need watering after the seeds have formed.

Mulching

After watering, the soil should be mulched with dry soil, straw or wood shavings so that moisture is not lost from the subsoil layer.

Feeding

To speed up the growth of a plum tree during the summer drought, when watering instead clean water you can add a solution chicken manure, prepared in a ratio of 1:20.

To reinforce the tree with the beneficial substances it needs, only 10 liters of such a solution is enough. It is recommended to water the plum every 2 months with this solution, starting from the second year of life.

A tree trunk that has reached 5 centimeters indicates sufficient development of the root system, thanks to which the plum tree can obtain everything it needs for active growth on its own.

Plum begins to reproduce at 3-4 years: The first fruits appear on it. During this period, the tree intensively extracts nutrients from the soil. After the end of fruiting, you should take care of autumn feeding in order to prevent a missed harvest next year.

To prepare the fertilizer you will need 3 tablespoons of superphosphate, 2 tablespoons of potassium chloride and 40 liters of water.

It is not recommended to use the same fertilizers throughout the season. It is important to consider that all fertilizers are absorbed faster by the tree in warm, sunny weather. If the weather is cold and cloudy, their absorption slows down and the plants need to be fed less frequently.

Planting green manure in the circles around the trunk once every 2-3 years has a positive effect on plum trees: phacelia, mustard, vetch, winter rye. During autumn planting, which takes place from August 15 to 20, winter rye provides the root system with protection from winter damage and serves as a good green cover for the soil.

In mid-July, summer green manure is planted. Autumn green manures are planted into the soil in early May, summer green manures - in the fall, when their flowering period begins.

Green fertilizers are very effective in caring for trees: by replacing the application of manure, they help improve the physical and nutritional properties of the soil, increase immunity, and develop the root system and the entire tree.

Trimming

In March, in the second year from the moment of transplanting the plum tree, sanitary pruning of the crown is recommended. In this case, the top of the central part of the trunk is removed, which contributes to the growth of the crown not in height, but in width. As a result, harvesting can be carried out without the use of a long ladder.

In addition, you need to remove branches growing inside the crown, since due to insufficient lighting, the fruits on them will not ripen fully. As a result, they will become just a useless weight that weakens the tree.

After removing the branches, the cut should be covered with garden varnish in order to reduce the loss of sap when the tree awakens to active growth.

You should try to remove branches to a minimum, since sanitary pruning can lead to a decrease in the active development of the tree. It is advisable to do this no more often than once every 2-3 years.

Pest and disease control

Diseases and pests cause enormous damage to plum trees. A full harvest cannot be obtained without regular and timely implementation of protective measures.

The fight against diseases and pests of plums, and sanitary and preventive measures must be carried out taking into account the phases of plant development that coincide with the most vulnerable periods of pest development.

In the spring, before the buds bloom, overwintered pest nests must be removed and burned. It is necessary to collect and burn dried fruits in the crown and under the tree.

It is recommended to thoroughly spray the crowns with N30, using 500 grams of product per 10 liters of water. This spraying is aimed at destroying eggs of aphids and mites, pathogens of fungal diseases, roseate leaf roller, and fruit moth caterpillars.

To protect trees from the larvae of leaf-eating pests, mites, aphids, and sawfly larvae, spray the white bud (from the beginning of bud break to the end of flowering) with insecticides Aktara, Fufanon-Nova, Alatar, adding Abiga-Pik or HOM. It is recommended to use all drugs strictly according to the instructions.

In the summer, 3-4 sprays are carried out at two-week intervals against mites, plum moths, and pathogens of fungal diseases. For this purpose, use Horus (3 grams per 10 liters of water) or Abiga-Pik (30 milliliters) in combination with the preparations Fitoverm and Fufanon-Nova.

In the fall, you need to collect and burn dried leaves with nests of pests and fallen fruits. A well-organized system of protective measures in combination with careful care and necessary agricultural technology contributes to obtaining good harvest drain

Growing a plum tree requires knowledge and attention at all stages. Each is important for the result - obtaining tasty fruits that are pleasing to the gardener’s eye.

The survival rate, growth of the seedling and the yield of an adult tree depend on how skillfully the plum tree is planted.

Therefore, it is necessary to adhere to a number of rules.

Landing rules

Represents the genus of stone fruits. This family loves warmth, like all the plum’s closest relatives:

• Apricot;
• Cherry plum;
• Cherries;
• Peach;
• Cherry.

Based on this list of representatives of the plum family, it is clear that the plants are southern. Mild southern winters make it possible to plant plums not only in the spring.

Autumn planting is also successful; the tree withstands the cold and wakes up safely in the spring.

Planting seedlings in different seasons has differences and features.

You also need to know how to grow plums in different regions.

Autumn and spring planting of plums: choosing the timing

Plum trees tolerate planting differently; when to plant it, the gardener decides after carefully weighing the pros and cons.

The timing depends greatly on the growing region.

Pros and cons of autumn planting

Autumn is fertile for planting in the south, especially its second half. The seedlings go into a dormant period and “fall asleep” for the winter.

Advantages of autumn planting of planting material:

1. Minimal trauma: the buds are at rest, the movement of moisture and nutrient media in the roots is suspended. young tree less sensitive to manipulations with it.
2. Planted before winter, a month to a month and a half before severe cold, the tree has time to settle in the ground. At the required depth, the soil tightly fits the skeletal roots and lateral roots. Autumn rain moisture and almost no evaporation eliminate the presence of voids around the roots.
3. Southern winter often feels like an extension of autumn. The seedlings manage to overwinter without any problems; they wake up in the spring like “natives”, without feeling any changes.
4. By the time of hot weather, which is usual for the southern spring, the seedling will adapt and will not perceive temperature changes as stress.

For climatic zones located to the north, autumn planting is possible, but difficult and risky:

1. Frail seedlings may freeze and even die.
2. The superficial location of the feeding roots will require insulation - mulching, covering the tree trunk circles. We'll have to cover them with snow. The trunks must be whitened to prevent cracking of the thin surface layer of the trunk in the cold. Otherwise, the temperature difference - the heating of the seedling by the sun during the day, alternating with frosty nights - “beats” the bark - it bursts.
3. Option: tying the stems with thick paper, this increases labor costs. If the garden is not at home, at the dacha, you have to continue the season of work on it in winter.
4. Spring floods can destroy even a successfully overwintered plum tree. Flooding disrupts air exchange in the waking plant. The roots are rotting.

Therefore, it is advisable to plant plums here - in the spring.

Spring planting of plum

“Prepare your sleigh in the summer...” - the proverb is universal and true for preparing a “place of residence” garden trees. It is better to select and prepare a site in any planting season - in the fall.

Provide the tree with:

• Protection from winds - plant under cover tall trees, pergolas, walls;
• Sunny place;
• Convenient location for watering. If the climate is dry, plum planting is carried out taking into account the possibility of irrigation, closer to the water source;
• Prepare food in advance. In the fall, when digging the area, add humus. It’s better to dig the planting hole before winter and fill it then.

The planting hole is dug taking into account the structure of the root system of the seedlings and soil fertility.

Good, nutritious soil will allow you to plant plums in a shallow – 60 cm – hole with a diameter of up to 80 cm.

If the soil is poor, the hole will be deeper and wider. Sufficient size: meter per meter.

Make sure the walls are vertical, otherwise there may be uneven settlement of the ground and skewing of the trunk.

There is no need to bury the tree a meter; half the depth will be occupied by soil mixed with humus.

The plum root system contains many lateral roots. They are located shallow and provide nutrition to the tree. Distributed within the crown projection.

This area is fertilized with organic matter (compost, humus, manured soil). This food will be enough for the first years.

Skeletal roots go deep, they support the tree and can supply moisture.

But the plant is nourished by the superficial root system. In its zone, the soil is loosened, fertilized, and mulched on top to retain moisture.

The depth of the skeletal roots is close to the height of the tree itself.

Planting a plum and following technology will determine the health and development of the tree to a large extent.

In the spring, the seedling is inspected and the upper third is removed with pruning shears. This stimulates the growth of lateral branches well.

The kidneys should be swollen and alive. But not yet blooming. This makes it easier for the plant to take root: it will awaken in new conditions.

Varietal seedlings are obtained by grafting varietal material onto a more hardy root - the rootstock.

The grafting site is easy to notice: it is thickened. Below the graft is the transition of the root to the trunk - the root collar.

Its location during landing is not arbitrary. The neck should be above the surface of the ground; deepening can destroy the tree.

The bark of the neck, located in the ground, gradually rots and collapses, and the tree withers.

Landing algorithm

In both spring and autumn, plum seedlings are planted according to the same algorithm:

1. A tall stake is driven deep into the center of the hole to support the seedling. Check the strength of the fastening: the stake should not swing.
2. Pour into a prepared hole filled with fertilized soil. fertile soil. The slide is made higher than the edges of the pit - then it will settle. If you pour it lower, a depression will form after planting and watering. This would be a mistake: stagnation of irrigation and rainwater near the stem will lead to its rotting.
3. Visually evaluate the planting material. Damaged roots, if present, are pruned to healthy areas. This improves survival rate.
4. A seedling is placed on a hill; the roots should be freely located on the soil and not pressed against the edges of the hole. There should be no voids left between the central lower part of the root adjacent to the trunk and the ground.
5. It is more convenient to plant together: one person holds the plant by the stem, and the other person pours soil on top of the roots. This way it is possible to give the plum trunk a vertical position and carefully fill the space between the roots with soil.
6. After sprinkling the roots with a small layer of soil, shake the seedling slightly. This way the earth is distributed more densely between the roots.
7. Pour a layer of soil above ground level; after watering, the sediment will level the surface.
8. Watering is carried out carefully so as not to expose the roots. It is better to water around the perimeter of the hole, the water will be absorbed evenly.
9. It is good to mulch the tree trunk area with last year's leaves, straw, and improvised material. This will retain moisture, reducing evaporation, and protect the roots from possible frost.

If it was not possible to dig and fill a planting hole in the fall, prepare it in the spring two weeks before the planned planting.

Planting scheme

When planting several trees or starting a garden, the planting scheme is chosen according to the characteristics of the variety.

Tall plums are placed four meters in a row. You can reduce the distance to three, focusing on the size of the area and the number of trees.

Between rows of tall plums, the standard distance is 5 meters. Possible - 4 meters, depending on the conditions.

Modern varieties of short plums are placed more compactly: a meter closer than tall ones, both in a row of trees and in the aisles.

Seedling care

The adaptation period of the tree will require special attention. You need to observe and note:

• Are the buds starting to grow in time? This is monitored regardless of the planting season.
• Is the tree trunk circle dry?
• The appearance of pests - young trees are the first to suffer from them.

Otherwise, growing plums does not require any special care at first.

If the planting pit is properly filled with organic matter, four feedings are not needed a year.

You will need watering, pruning, and loosening the soil. Possibly mulching.

Watering and fertilizing

Everyone knows that the main thing in care is watering, and it is also necessary for plums.

High-quality humidification up to 40 cm depth will be optimal.

In the first half of summer, 5 buckets per tree will become the norm; the amount of water is increased during the fruiting period of the plum, but not excessively, otherwise there is a risk of fungal infection.

Mineral fertilizers will come in handy in the third or fourth year from the moment of planting, so potassium and phosphorus are added to the soil during autumn digging.

Use in spring and after flowering nitrogen fertilizers, and by mid-June an infusion of cow manure is added (in the trunk circles - for young trees, for adults - throughout the planting area).

Nitrogen, potassium, and magnesium help ensure good fruiting and stable growth, so they should be used for both root and foliar feeding.

For example, nitrogen in the form of nitrate or urea can be sprayed onto leaves if they turn pale.

For brown and curling leaves, granulated potassium and magnesium can be added to the soil.

Crown formation

Pruning plum trees is not difficult. The conductor - the central trunk - is always in the lead; it is left above other branches.

It is better to remove competing branches or greatly shorten them. Remove the completely cut branch “to zero”, without a stump.

Stone fruits are prone to fungal diseases. Fungal spores enter through wounds on tree stumps.

Side branches are shortened at the end of the first or beginning of the second season. Plum is prone to rapid growth, trimming the end parts will force it to branch.

Without pruning, most plums “drive” vertical branches to greater heights.

After a couple of years, without care (pruning), no ladder will help you reach fruits that have ripened at many meters in height.

By cutting out unnecessary branches that thicken the crown, free the tree from inconvenient ones.

Inconvenient:

• Growing vertically (tops) - they are barren or sterile;
• Extending at an excessively acute angle from the central trunk;
• Growing horizontally or at a large (more than 50°) angle;
• Crowns directed inward;
• Growing towards the paths, they will interfere with walking through the garden.

It is advisable to direct the skeletal branches along the rows; this will make caring for the plum easier.

Every year, during the growing season, “hold back” the vigorous growth in height.

Avoid severe pruning: the longer the cut fragment of the branch, the stronger the branching on the remaining part.

More thinning work means more injuries to the tree and loss of time for the gardener.

Overgrowth

Stone fruit crops, having taken root, quickly develop new territory. The lateral roots actively expel the shoots.

If this is not contained, a few years will turn the garden into impenetrable plum thickets.

Gardeners are struggling with this undesirable phenomenon. If the variety is self-rooted (without grafting), the plum can be safely propagated by the vegetative method.

The shoots are dug up, the roots are cut, and planting is carried out. Valuable varieties are being sold.

Varieties obtained in nurseries through grafting cannot be propagated this way. Everything that comes from the root is not a varietal.

Therefore, it is cut down or dug up.

To make labor-intensive work easier, the shoots are not allowed to grow. Along the perimeter of the trunk circle in the projection of the crown, root-impermeable material is dug in:

• Plastic;
• Metal;
• Slate;
• Rubber.

They select what is available and use their imagination. The roots lie shallow and can block the road.

Take the trouble once and you will avoid the need to dig up the growth every year throughout the entire area.

Bury the material by thirty centimeters: the roots are superficial. Leave a small edge at the top.

Weeding

Weeding is minimal. The first year is manual. Using tools can accidentally damage the delicate roots.

In subsequent periods, weed the surface layer, preferably with a flat cutter. At the same time, the soil is loosened and moisture is “closed.”

The term means destruction of the crust, a network of cracks on it. This prevents moisture from actively evaporating and keeps it at the roots.

You can even walk between the rows with a walk-behind tractor (cultivator). Plum will tolerate this kind of care without problems.

Harvesting

Plum is a juicy fruit. It should be picked slightly unripe. Otherwise, it will wrinkle and the skin will burst.

Low trees are much easier to maintain. Special devices no need: buckets, baskets, fruit boxes, and gardener's hands.

Add a ladder to this set if the varieties are tall.

The fruits should be picked carefully, trying not to damage the skin or even the protective whitish coating on it.

Then the plum will last longer. You will have time to process it or transport it without loss.

Plum propagation methods

First of all, let us immediately say that the propagation of this tree, regardless of the variety, occurs vegetatively, that is, through cuttings, root shoots and plum seedlings.

Seeds can only be used to obtain a rootstock - a tree, onto which grafting is then carried out.

How and why to grow a rootstock?

If you need a rootstock, start preparing the seeds:

• you need to select the best fruits, remove the pulp, rinse under running water and soak for 4 days, changing the water and mixing the “seeds”;
• thoroughly dry future seeds;
• store them in a glass container until planting time;
• for a sufficient period of time before planting (it will be 180 days), stratify the seeds - keep them in a moist environment, this can be sand or wood shavings in temperature conditions from -10 to +1 0 C;
• plant in the ground either in the fall or with the onset of stable spring weather (this is usually done at the end of April);
• maintain when landing correct distances– between seedlings they should be 10 cm, between rows – 70 cm, with a planting depth of 70 cm.

In order for the grafting to be successful, it would be better for you to take winter-hardy varieties sloe or plum.

The rootstock must grow for 1 year; after this period, grafting can be done.

Graft

Grafting is performed during the period when the movement of juice is actively occurring, this is:

1. Spring: mid-April - mid-May;
2. Summer: mid-July - mid-August.

Spring is more suitable for grafting cuttings, and buds are grafted in summer.

Root growth

We have already talked about copulation reproduction. It is suitable only as a clonal, vegetative plant.

Horizontal roots with many small lateral roots (or even without them) take root almost one hundred percent.

A proven good variety can be propagated quickly and successfully. Make money by selling or providing your favorite plums to all your relatives, neighbors, and acquaintances.

The method is economical, inexpensive, and fast. Well suited for yellow plums: they do not disappoint in taste, size and beauty of the fruit. Transportable if harvested on time.

Late pink plums produce less shoots, but they also reproduce successfully.

For the upcoming transportation of seedlings for sale and possible storage of them until sale, dip the roots, protecting them from evaporation and drying out, in a clay mash.

But even “bare” roots, free from soil, wrapped in damp cloth will remain viable.

You can transport seedlings to any region suitable for their climate.

There are known cases of successful rooting and growing of the southern yellow plum in the Moscow region.

Experiment, go for it. Fortune favors the brave.

If the variety is grafted, the shoots will not convey the characteristics of the variety, and the gardener will be disappointed with the result.

Root cuttings

You can also take root cuttings for propagation.

The cutting is obtained as follows: the root is dug up at a distance of a meter from the trunk of a young plum, or one and a half meters from the trunk of an adult; The root thickness should be approximately 1.5 cm and the length should be 15.

It is cut off and stored in a trench covered with peat and river sand mixed in equal proportions.

Its depth should be at least 0.5 m, but you can also use a basement, where you will have to create suitable conditions for the cuttings using moss and wet sawdust.

These measures will be useful if the cutting is cut off in the fall, and if in the spring, then you can place it in the ground, under a film, adding peat to the soil in a ratio of 1:3.

The cutting should be placed vertically or obliquely.

Plum cuttings will require careful care - when planting, it is important to maintain intervals of 5 cm between units, and keep the rows 10 cm apart from each other.

The depth of the soil covering will be 5 cm, but it is better to deepen the upper ends a couple of centimeters and mulch them, that is, sprinkle them (peat or sawdust will do).

You need to keep them in the shade and not let them dry out until shoots appear.

If there are several shoots on one cutting, then the strongest one should be left.

Organic fertilizers (slurry, for example) will be useful if fertilized several times a season.

The time to replant the cutting that has sprung will come next winter, and it can go to the garden when it reaches a height of 1.5 m.

But not all gardeners can and like to grow their seedlings and, therefore, sometimes it’s easier to visit a nursery and choose the right variety. Get what you want, brush up on your knowledge.

And then planting a plum and cultivating it will not require excessive labor. And the result will be expected and will definitely please you.

Blooms but doesn't bear fruit

And sometimes it happens like this: plum trees bloom profusely, then ovaries appear, which fall off en masse without bearing fruit. For this reason, gardeners even uproot healthy trees. What to do in this case?

Let's consider all the reasons for the failure of the plum harvest: from the choice of variety to agricultural technology and climatic conditions.

1. Most varieties require pollination, as they are self-sterile. Each variety has its own “fellow traveler”: they must grow close to each other. The symbiosis of two varieties - “Annushka” and “Skoroplodnaya” - will give a high yield. When a “pair” is not identified by breeders, you will have to plant a “clump” of several varieties fruit trees. You can cooperate with neighboring trees by planting your plums near the fence. Cross-pollination by insects decreases in cold or rainy weather - you won't get a harvest.
2. A phenomenon known to biologists as physiological carrion: the tree does not have enough nutrition for all the fruits that have set. Defects in the root system are considered a common cause. Alas, it is impossible to correct this, but due to the correct formation of the crown, amateur gardeners still increase the yield.
3. Bacterial trees can often be observed in plums - this is the result of gardeners’ careless attitude towards them. Carrion from under the crown and fallen leaves must not only be removed, but also taken outside the garden. The crown of trees must be regularly treated from gray rot and pathogenic fungi. One percent Bordeaux mixture, applied three times, with an interval of two weeks, successfully copes with infectious diseases of stone fruits.
4. -insects can significantly reduce the yield. The most common are plum sawfly, codling moth and centipede caterpillar. Use agricultural techniques (loosening, hilling), install catching belts. This way you will protect your garden without chemicals.
5. Weather and climatic conditions determine the future harvest. On young shoots after winter you can see traces of frost damage. Clean these places and treat them with garden varnish. But amateurs are unable to combat pollen sterilization. It is caused by strong cold winds during flowering. In northern latitudes, the tree lacks warmth; in the south, seedlings are threatened by drought; the middle zone is recognized as the best for plum growth.
6. Failure to comply with the conditions and landing site. Seedlings love neutral soils, sunny areas of the garden not shaded by large trees, where there are no “alien” roots.

Now that you know the reasons for plum harvest failure, you can weigh your options and desires to select several plum trees for your new garden, knowing their characteristics.

To conclude this article, I would like to offer you videos about planting plums and pruning them to watch.

See you soon, dear readers!

It's no secret that plums began to be grown on their plots even before the beginning of our era. It is difficult to find a person who does not like these tasty and attractive berries. Plums can be used anywhere, they make simply excellent compotes, preserves, jams and sauces, and they can also be dried. And those who have own plot, and who grow plums on it, because growing a plum will not take a lot of effort. But nowadays there are a lot of varieties and you can choose any of them. Exactly the one that is suitable for your region. And if you decide to plant on your summer cottage plum, then you should take a closer look at our publication, which will allow you to do the correct process of planting plums.

Variety of plum types

Plum is a popular berry in our country. And therefore, they were developed specifically for central Russia delicious varieties, which are worth mentioning in our publication.

So, thanks to the efforts of breeders, new varieties appear almost every year. Of course, we won’t be able to talk about everyone, because the list is quite large. Currently, approximately 300 of the most popular varieties of plums are planted on their plots. The planting process for regions such as the Urals, Siberia, and central Russia is the same. But the main difference is the choice of the most suitable variety for a particular region. Plum varieties can be grouped according to similar indicators:

Egg plum. Appearance fully corresponds to its name. The berries are quite large, oval in shape, and the indentation characteristic of plums is almost invisible. Varieties of this species are classified according to color: blue, yellow, red. Perfect for twisting and eating fresh.

Hungarian. Did you know that Hungarian has united a large group of plums. But they are similar to each other in the dark color of the fruit, their flesh is dense and has a noticeable seam. The tree itself grows large, and the crown is semi-spreading. The very first variety of Hungarian is considered to be Italian. The fruits are dark in color and ovoid in shape. The pulp itself is yellow-green in color and not very aromatic. This variety tolerates transportation well, which is why it is known almost all over the world. Also very popular are varieties such as Hungarian vulgaris, Azhanskaya, Moscow and Zimnitsa.

Greengage. This variety is considered a subspecies of domestic plum. The trees reach a height of almost seven meters and have a non-standard crown shape. The plum itself is approximately five centimeters in diameter, and the fruits of the tree are round or ovoid. The varieties differ in color. There are greenish, red-yellow, or a little blue. The plum pulp is juicy and soft. But you won’t be able to transport and store these plums, and if you still need to transport them somewhere, then pick them a little unripe. Some of the popular varieties are the Karbysheva, Altana, and collective farm varieties.

Varieties Mirabelle. The berries of this variety are not large in size, the color is closer to golden and have a spherical shape. This variety comes from Asia Minor, but currently it is also found in Europe, and more of it in France. This species also feels good in central Russia. The most famous varieties are Bolshaya, Malaya, Bona, Nancy, September.

Damsons. This is a small bush or tree. Ternosliv is a subspecies of domestic plum. It is resistant to changes in weather conditions and adverse environmental conditions. Very easy to care for.

Canadian plum. Truly an amazing variety. This variety can withstand frosts up to 50 degrees. And thanks to this, this variety also grows in Siberia. But, as always, there is one drawback - these are cross-pollinated trees, which means that several trees need to be planted. From one tree you can harvest up to 70 kilograms of plums. Famous varieties: De Soto, Terry, Tecumsech, Nansa.

Choosing the right landing site

In order for the plum to bear fruit well every year, special planting and high-quality care will be required. First of all, you need to find a comfortable place for the plum to grow further. Gentle slopes on the south, southwest and west sides are ideal for planting plums. Experts advise planting plum seedlings in very warm places, and where the soil breathes well. If you want to plant a tree in a lowland or near a fence, then you still need to make at least some kind of elevation. The dimensions of the hill are up to 50 centimeters high and up to two meters wide. Plum loves gray forest, loamy and black soil. The presence of moisture and air is required. When planting several trees, you should pay attention to the subtleties of each variety. Approximately they need to be planted according to this example: four trees by two meters.

When to plant plums in spring or autumn

If you cannot decide on planting a plum, if you do not know whether to choose autumn or spring for this case, then when answering these questions you will not hear a definite answer. Some amateur gardeners claim that they need to plant in the spring, while others say that any time of the year is suitable. You can buy seedlings in the fall (again, depending on the region of the country), but it is preferable to plant them in the spring. Just in time for spring, the seedlings will have time to grow stronger and form a root system (this applies to the Moscow region and southern regions of Russia). The most favorable month for planting plums is April. But again, keep an eye on the soil to ensure it warms up and thaws after winter. In Siberia this is the third ten days of April.

Preparing the landing hole

Plum is an unpretentious plant. But here it is important to know how to plant and how to care for it in order to pick delicious fruits from the branches of this tree. The process of preparing the planting hole can begin in the fall or spring a few weeks before planting. Dimensions of the planting hole: depth 60 centimeters and circumference 60-70 centimeters. Mix the soil from the pit with humus in a 2:1 ratio. It is also possible to add mineral fertilizers. If you plant plums in the spring, you need to dig, only shallowly, after the soil has dried out. During the growth period of the seedling, it is worth tying it up for about a year and a half. This is done to strengthen the root system.

Main nuances

Regardless of whether you plant plums in spring or autumn, you need to do this wisely and correctly. We plant the seedling so that its root collar is six centimeters above the soil surface. Over time, the earth will settle and it will be in its place. If you do not follow this rule, the bark may rot, which in turn will negatively affect the fruiting and growth of the plum. And one more thing, don’t overdo it with fertilizers. Follow this rule: better less than more. Do not fertilize with manure, only compost and humus. If you overdo it, then in the worst case the plant will get a root burn.

Watering process

Whether you plant in spring or fall, be sure to water well. You will need two buckets per seedling. After which you mulch the soil. Plum loves water very much, so when there is little rain, water it more often. The very first watering is carried out in the middle of May, then when flowering has passed, the third watering is in July, when the fruits begin to fill, and the fourth falls in the autumn, in October. The number of buckets of water depends on the age of the plum (minimum three, maximum eight). And be sure to loosen the soil after watering.

Fertilizer process

During the life of the plum, it should be fertilized. The very first fertilization process is carried out in the third year from the moment of planting. Humus and compost are suitable as fertilizers, wood ash at the rate of 200 grams per 1 sq.m. When the active growing season begins, mineral complex fertilizers are added. Due to this, the growth of new shoots and leaves accelerates at the beginning of spring. And if you apply fertilizer at the beginning of summer, it has a beneficial effect on the development of fruits. Nitrogen-quality fertilizers are applied in liquid formulations. Phosphorus or potassium are added directly to the soil in the fall. Lime is quite useful - fluff lime (at the rate of 1 sq.m. per 50-100 grams).

The process of pruning home plum

We talked above about how plum trees should be planted and cared for. But it is worth saying that pruning is also required here. Indeed, a plum requires not only watering and fertilizing, it must be periodically pruned, thereby forming a beautiful crown. It is preferable to carry out this process in the spring before sap flow begins. And the air temperature should be at the same level, without any sharp fluctuations. In the case of spruce, you do the process of pruning the plum in the summer, then choose the first half so that the wounds on the plum heal before the onset of winter. But you shouldn’t prune in the fall, because cold weather is just around the corner. So that you can succeed beautiful tree it is worth shaping it when you planted the seedlings, because young trees grow very quickly. Older trees are pruned to rejuvenate the tree, and unnecessary dried branches are removed. If the plum is a fast-growing variety, then it is better to cut the branches by 1/3. We recommend that, before starting the process of pruning plums, you read the relevant literature and consult with experts in this field.

Root removal process

This procedure also needs to be carried out during the growth process of the plum. Feel free to cut and remove unwanted shoots coming from the measles system. They simply prevent the tree from developing further. If you notice growth from the roots, this is already a small signal that there are problems. You can destroy it and chemical method. But we recommend a simple method - the pruning method. Don't cut them at soil level; this will allow them to grow even more. Find the root system of these shoots and cut them there. And simply fill the resulting holes with earth.