For drilling holes in various materials, breaking walls, drilling rocks and roads designed rock drill. The tool is used under heavy loads and eventually malfunctions. You can replace a failed puncher with an inexpensive Chinese model. But if you have a branded instrument, then it is a pity to throw it away. In order not to give half the cost of the puncher for troubleshooting, you can do it yourself. No repair is complete without studying the structure of the tool and the procedure for disassembling it.
Types of punchers
Perforators have several classifications. This is due to the different areas of application of the tool.
The number of modes can be from one to three:
drilling. The puncher works in the mode of a drill;
impact drilling. You can make holes in brick and concrete;
jackhammer, that is, a blow without drilling.
Hammer drive types:
Mass classification:
- heavy. Over 5 kg. Over 1200 W. In construction.
lungs. 2–4 kg. Power 400–700 W. Used in everyday life;
medium. About 5 kg. Power 700–1200 W. Professional;
Types of cartridges used in rotary hammers:
SDS+ is installed on light and medium rock drills for work with drills up to 20 mm;
SDS max is used for drills over 20 mm, so they are installed on heavy rock drills with high power.
Classification by engine location:
Perforator device
Regardless of the functions and designs, rotary hammers have similar basic elements.
The device is a simple puncher with a network drive
Network cord.
Power button.
Engine.
Reducer.
At barrel puncher the same basic nodes.
Barrel puncher device with network drive
The impact mechanism of the perforator can be made in two versions:
The oscillating bearing is also called drunk. This mechanism is used in light and medium perforators.
Impact mechanism with drunken bearing
The crank mechanism is used in heavy rotary hammers.
Crank-and-rod percussion mechanism
How to disassemble a hammer drill
Disassemble the hammer drill sequentially. Look carefully at all the details. Even if you are looking for a problem in one node, you can find damaged parts in other nodes. When disassembling the tool, clean the case from dust and dirty grease.
How to disassemble the cartridge and remove the stuck tooling
Start by disassembling the cartridge so that it does not interfere with the removal of the gearbox housing.
If a drill or other equipment is not pulled out of the cartridge, there are two options for solving this problem:
- clamp the tool in a vise. Slightly shaking the punch, pull it towards you;
- clamp the rotary hammer in a vise through the rubber pads so as not to damage the plastic housing. Clamp the end of the snap with a gas wrench. Tap with a hammer on the wrench in the direction of the tooling axis.
The second option is used as a last resort. If after several blows the drill or chisel cannot be pulled out, stop. You may damage the punch. Disassemble the chuck and gearbox. Try to knock out the snap with a punch. After such a procedure, most likely, a replacement of the raster sleeve will be required. To avoid such a problem in the future, lubricate the end of the snap.
How to remove a stuck drill from a drill chuck
How to remove the mode switch
In some models of rotary hammers, the switch is removed by turning it to the extreme right position, in others - to the extreme left. Consider the extreme right position.
Analysis of the electrical part of the puncher
Analysis of the mechanical part of the perforator
- Remove the plastic gear case. You will see an aluminum housing with a screwed bearing inserted into it, an intermediate shaft, a raster bushing.
- Thoroughly clean the plastic housing of the gearbox, because pieces from the collapsed bearing remain in it. Take the magnet and go through all the holes to remove all the balls and metal fragments. Clean out the grease completely. Pieces of the plastic separator may remain in it.
- Remove the intermediate shaft from the drunken bearing.
- To dismantle the helical gear, remove the snap ring and bearing with a special puller.
- To dismantle the spur gear, remove the circlip and spring at the other end of the shaft.
- Remove the sleeve from the sleeve.
- Remove the sleeve from the aluminum housing.
- There is a striker inside the sleeve. It is pulled out with a bent rigid wire.
How to assemble a perforator
Assembly is carried out in blocks. First, collect small parts into blocks, and then connect them.
- Insert a bearing with a promshaft and a sleeve into the aluminum gearbox housing.
- Put a rubber band on the body. It prevents leakage of lubricant.
- Connect the grid sleeve to the sleeve.
- Lubricate the drunken bearing and gears liberally on the outside.
- Put the plastic gearbox housing on the assembled unit.
- Insert the rotor into the gearbox.
- Install the stator and air intake into the electrical housing. Connect the two halves of the punch body.
- Insert a screwdriver into the hole in the raster sleeve and twist. It should rotate easily. Tighten the housing bolts.
- Put the brushes in place.
- Insert the button and all the wires into the grooves. Make sure nothing is in the way and put on the back cover. Screw it on.
- Before installing the switch button with a screwdriver, move the switch bracket in the punch body. So that the pin that is on the switch gets between the two metal guides of the bracket.
- Place the mode switch just below the impact, push it down and turn it up until it clicks.
- Assemble the cartridge in reverse order.
How to assemble a perforator
Punch Diagnostics
Take the multimeter, put it in the dialing mode and start testing with the power cord.
- Connect one probe to the end of the plug, the other to the contacts on the other end of the wire. When connecting to one of the contacts, there must be sound signal. Do the same with the other end of the fork.
- Check the power button on the contacts with the power cord and with the stator. Press the button trigger.
- Check reverse contacts.
- Connect the probes to the brushes to check the contact through the armature.
- Connect the probes to the stator wires and ring them.
- If the contacts on the stator or brushes do not ring, and the buttons and power cord are working, proceed to the diagnostics of the collector and motor windings.
Diagnostics of wires and buttons of a puncher with a multimeter
At the anchor, first inspect the collector and winding. If the wiring is melted, the burnt insulating varnish will leave black marks or a peculiar smell. You can see bent and crumpled coils or conductive particles, such as solder residue. These particles cause a short circuit between the turns. Manifold damage: Raised, worn or burnt plates.
Run diagnostics with a multimeter:
The anchor can be saved if the balance is not disturbed. If during the operation of the device an intermittent hum is heard and there is a strong vibration, then this is a violation of the balance. This anchor needs to be replaced. And you can repair the winding and collector. Small short circuits are eliminated. If a significant part of the winding is damaged, it can be rewound. Worn and badly damaged lamellas should be machined, extended or soldered. In addition, you should not undertake anchor repair if you are unsure of your capabilities. It is better to replace it or take it to the repair shop.
Checking the performance of the stator with a multimeter:
set the resistance mode to 200 ohms. Connect the probes of the device to the ends of one winding. One means an open, and zero means a short circuit between the turns. If it shows the presence of a resistance of more than 1.5 ohms, then check the second winding. Both windings should have approximately the same resistance;
check the absence of breakdown to ground, that is, the short circuit of the winding with the metal case of the stator. Set your multimeter to maximum resistance. Connect one probe to the end of the winding, the other probe to the metal case of the stator. The unit indicates the absence of a breakdown.
Malfunctions and their causes
Frequent malfunctions of the perforator:
- does not turn on. Check the electrical circuit;
- perforator does not hit. Breakage in the impact mechanism;
- the tool does not turn, does not drill. Causes: armature bearings, armature gear, gearbox;
- the drill flies out, does not hold. Malfunction of the cartridge or raster sleeve;
- sparking in the electrical housing. Causes: violation of the insulation of the armature winding, wear of the brushes, collector, clogging of the brush holders;
- sparking in the power button area. Faulty button contacts or wires;
- the drill gets hot. The reason is worn brushes, short circuit of the winding turns, poor lubrication of the gearbox;
- puncher does not hold a cartridge. Snap ring or locking washer broken.
DIY repair
When disassembling the assembly, carefully inspect the parts for cracks and chips.
Replacing the power button
Before replacing, mark the wiring and button contacts so as not to confuse the connection order.
- To replace the button, just unscrew the screws of the contacts. But there may be buttons without screws. Here, next to the contacts, there are holes into which a needle or a thin awl is inserted. Poke into the hole, push in and pull out the wire. Do not pull on the wire, you may damage the button.
- Wires must be stripped and tinned.
- Take an old button and buy a similar one.
- On the new button, insert the awl into the hole, press lightly and insert the wire. It will automatically be clamped by contacts.
Replacing a button with an awl
Brushes should be checked periodically. If one is worn by 40%, change both. Also, clean the brush holders.
Replacement and connection of the stator
- Remove the stator from the electrical housing. Put a new one in its place.
- Screw in the mounting bolts.
- Install the air intake.
- Proceed to connect the windings. Connect the two ends of different windings to each other and connect to the nearest brush. Connect the other two connected ends to the start button. Connect the wire from the second brush to the button as well.
Bearing replacement
The drill has several bearings. You will need a puller to remove them. In some cases, it is necessary to remove the retaining ring. If there is no puller, they hang the shaft with the bearing and knock it out with a piece of wood. The bearing is seated using a fitting made of a polypropylene tube by tapping on it with a hammer.
Cartridge replacement
Cartridges in rotary hammers are very easy to change. Remove the rubber boot, retaining ring, plastic boot, washer that presses the balls, fixing plates, spring. IN different models the number of rings and plates is different. Replace them with a new set.
Drunk Bearing Repair
Prepare a flathead screwdriver, a clean rag, and the gear lubricant recommended in the manual.
Repair of raster bushing and impact bolt
To disassemble the raster sleeve, you need to compress the spring, remove the retaining ring and gear.
Raster sleeve assembly and without gear
The impact bolt is repaired by replacing parts or replaced completely if it has fallen apart.
Sleeve replacement
The sleeve wears out less often than the raster sleeve, but with frequent overheating of the tool, it also fails. Remove the grid sleeve and sleeve from the aluminum gear case. Put a new one in its place.
Worn and new sleeve with striker
Features of barrel puncher repair
Repair of a barrel puncher has the same principles as a simple one. The main difference is in the design and number of elements.
Replacing the brushes on a barrel puncher
Impact mechanism and gearbox repair
The main difference between a barrel puncher and a gearbox that is simple in design. Some models have an impact mechanism with a drunken bearing.
Barrel puncher with screwed bearing
But most rotary hammers have a crank-and-rod impact mechanism.
Barrel perforator with crank percussion mechanism
All gears and bearings should be checked and lubricated. Worn change. To disassemble this design, you need to unscrew the bolts on the body. The barrel is knocked out of the body with a rubber mallet. The bearings are removed with a puller.
How to remove the striker and raster sleeve from a barrel puncher
Due to a faulty striker, the puncher stops beating.
Barrel Punch Repair
Proper operation and care of the perforator
In order for the puncher to work for a long time, some recommendations should be followed:
before fixing the snap, lubricate the shank with the agent specified in the instructions;
after work, clean the chuck and tooling;
when working with concrete, remove the drill every 2 cm;
if you need to drill a large hole, use drills of different diameters so as not to drill with the largest drill at once;
Take breaks for large workloads to cool down. During breaks, you can clean the cartridge;
regularly carry out a complete disassembly of the tool for cleaning and lubrication.
If the punch has any malfunction, read the instructions. Inspect the instrument carefully. If you do not doubt yourself, then do the repair yourself.
A properly working hammer drill is a great helper in the household and in production. This versatile tool with many functions allows you to comfortably solve even the most difficult problems. challenging tasks. If the hammer drill is broken, it is not at all necessary to immediately carry it in for repair. Home master Can independently disassemble and repair this tool. How to repair a perforator with your own hands?
Perforator device and its mechanism
Unlike a drill, as well as an impact drill, a hammer drill has an enhanced impact function, which puts it an order of magnitude higher in those situations where it is necessary to apply a significant mechanical effect on the materials being processed.
This is achieved by the design features of the perforator device. The device is equipped with an independent mechanism for generating a powerful pneumatic push of the working tool, and this ability frees the master from the use of physical effort when drilling and chiselling concrete and stone.
Perforator impact mechanism in section
The transformation of the rotational motion of the electric motor into the translational vibration of the percussion mechanism is performed by creating compression between the pistons. This movement is transmitted to the drummer. The striker, made of high-strength steel, in turn sends energy compressed air directly on the working tool - drill, chisel or spatula. Such a device of the unit allows you to increase the impact power to a huge destructive force - 20 kJ.
Perforator with a vertical arrangement of the engine ("barrel") Depending on the location of the engine, there are drill-like and barrel types of perforators.
- The first type of device is similar to a drill, in which the motor is located in the same axis as the drill.
- In rotary hammers of the second type, the engine is mounted perpendicular to the drilling axis.
Barrel punchers are large in size, but at the same time they have a more advanced cooling system, which allows you to operate the tool for a long time without stopping. Devices in the form of a drill are much more compact, they are convenient when working in cramped circumstances, when access to the object is limited.
Diagnosis of malfunctions of the puncher
If during operation malfunctions in the operation of the perforator become apparent, it should be disconnected from the power supply and an external inspection should be carried out. If external signs no damage was found, you have to disassemble the case and look for the problem inside.
One of the reasons for the failure of the device is a break in the power cord. In this case, the hammer motor does not turn on. To diagnose it, you must carefully examine the cable connecting the tool to the network. It must not be damaged, broken or melted. A serviceable power cord remains cold during operation. If the wire is not in order, it should be replaced with an equivalent one. The cross section of the conductive elements must correspond to the power consumed by the tool.
Universal diagnostic tool for electrical circuits
Conventionally, all malfunctions of the perforator can be divided into two categories - mechanical and electrical.
Failures in the mechanical part: the crown does not pull out of the barrel, the drill does not hammer, the drill does not rotate, and others
- the drill does not hammer;
- the drill does not rotate;
- the crown is not pulled out of the barrel (wedged);
- the chisel does not hold in the cartridge (pops out);
- are heard extraneous sounds inside the mechanism, rattle, vibration.
Electrical failures: the motor does not rotate, the brushes on the collector spark and other types of breakdowns
The following signs indicate problems with the electrical part of the perforator:
- the motor does not rotate when turned on;
- intensively spark brushes on the collector;
- the smell of burnt insulation emanates from the case;
- acrid smoke comes out of the tool during operation.
In order to find out and eliminate the cause of all these phenomena, the punch must be disassembled.
The procedure for disassembling and assembling the device
You should start disassembling yourself only if you have the appropriate tools and equipment. To repair a perforator with your own hands you will need:
- screwdrivers with different slots;
- vise;
- wrenches and socket (hexagonal) keys;
- bearing pullers.
In addition, spare parts for replacement, rubber seals and gaskets will be needed. To lubricate the gears of the mechanisms you will need:
- grease;
- rags;
- cleaning solvent.
When self repair electric motor, in addition to a multimeter, you will need:
- spare carbon (or graphite) brushes;
- copper wire of the required section;
- rewind template.
Removing the chuck
Disassembly of the perforator begins with the removal of the cartridge. As a rule, this is a cartridge of the SDS-plus system, which is disassembled with a flat-head screwdriver. At the same time, there should not be a drill or chisel in the cartridge.
There are times when the drill jams and it is not so easy to get it out. Then you need to gently tap the cartridge around the circumference with a rubber mallet and pour a few drops of WD-40 type grease inside. After a few minutes, try again, the drill should be easily removed. After that, you can proceed to disassemble the cartridge itself. Procedure:
- Pull the plastic skirt down.
- Remove the rubber protective boot with a screwdriver.
- Unclip and remove the retaining ring located behind the anther.
- Remove the plastic boot, spring, stop plates and balls.
- Clean all parts of old grease and store in a clean place.
circuit diagram Cartridge SDS devices
Video: how to remove a drill stuck in a chuck
Removing the mode switch
To remove the mode switch, you must:
- Move the toggle switch to the "hit" position (pictogram with the image of a hammer) and turn it about 1 cm lower.
- Release the lever from its socket.
- Pull the lever towards you.
The switch is removed in the position below the "shock"
How to check the start button and brushes
To get to the collector brushes and the start control button, you need to remove the back cover. To do this, two or three screws are unscrewed from the plastic case (depending on the model).
If the cause of the malfunction lay in the wear of the brushes, you can eliminate it by installing a new pair. The working length of the brush must be at least 8 mm. Friction surface - without traces of scale or chips.
Disconnecting the carbon brushes from the commutator
The start button is checked with a multimeter. It must be remembered that the engine speed control system is also located inside the trigger mechanism. If melted plastic is visible on the button body, it should be replaced entirely, since it will no longer function properly.
After replacing the button, you need to install the housing cover in place, do not forget to tighten the screws securely. Only then can you check the operation of the perforator.
How to disassemble an electric motor
To disassemble the electric motor, it is necessary to disconnect the electric motor housing from the gearbox. They are held together with four screws. If they are unscrewed, the mechanical part is easily separated from the plastic casing. During disassembly, the motor rotor is removed from the guide sleeve, freeing access to the gearbox. Accordingly, it becomes possible to examine the electrical parts of the engine.
Mounting screws connect the two parts of the housing
The motor consists of a movable rotor and a rigidly fixed stator. The rotor rotates under the action of an electromotive force that occurs on windings consisting of turns of a copper conductor. Inspection of the windings is to determine the integrity of the insulation, the absence of a short circuit between the turns. This is done using a multimeter by successive measurements of the resistance on the lamellas. In the event of an interturn short circuit, the armature must be replaced or repaired. The stator windings can be rewound independently at home using a special template.
Stator, commutator and brushes
The armature, as a rule, changes entirely, along with the bearings and the air intake plate.
The armature of the electric motor (rotor) is replaced entirely
How to disassemble and check the gearbox: how to remove the plastic case, remove the “drunk bearing” and other elements
In order to determine the malfunction of the gearbox, it must be completely disassembled. To do this, the plastic housing is removed, the gearbox is thoroughly cleaned of old grease. From the gearbox housing are disconnected:
- floating bearing;
- drive gear shaft;
- raster sleeve;
- sleeve with piston.
Cutaway perforator gearbox
The floating bearing, also referred to as the “drunk bearing”, is mounted in the aluminum gearbox housing with a bracket, which must be pressed out with a flat screwdriver. The released bearing is taken out and replaced if necessary. In addition, you should pay attention to the fact that inside the “drunk bearing” there is a needle bearing on which the drive gear rotates. When the puncher is operating in impact mode, it experiences heavy loads, and therefore often fails. A new bearing is purchased separately or assembled with a promshaft.
A drunken bearing transmits a shock impulse to the tool
The grid sleeve contains an impact bolt, which is fastened inside with a metal retaining ring. On the sides of the sleeve there are two technological holes through which access to the locking mechanism is provided. After removing the fixation of the ring, the impact bolt freely falls out of the sleeve. Inside it is directly the drummer, made of high-alloy steel.
When repairing or replacing the impact bolt, it is also necessary to replace the sealing rubber bushings, which ensure the tightness of the mechanism. All parts of the drummer are subject to abundant lubrication with special grease.
There is another needle bearing in the plastic housing of the gearbox at the output of the grid sleeve, which must be well lubricated.
Video: how to fix a hammer drill and replace an impact bolt
Possible malfunctions, their causes and solutions
To repair a puncher with your own hands, you must first determine the external manifestations of malfunctions.
Perforator does not hit
If the hammer stops hitting when switching to impact mode, but the drill rotates, it is most likely that the floating bearing is damaged. The solution to the problem is to replace it with a new one.
Second possible reason- Violation of the percussion mechanism. Often, during overloads, a steel striker breaks in work, this leads first to a weakening of the impact, and then to its complete absence. The striker needs to be replaced.
The third probable reason is wear or breakage of the perforator piston group. The sleeve and piston should be replaced.
Hammer drill does not spin or drill
If the chuck does not rotate when the start button is pressed in drilling mode, the cause can be preliminarily determined by the sound. If the electric motor hums but does not turn the cartridge, most likely something is preventing the rotor from rotating inside the gearbox. What happened to the engine will have to be found out by disassembling the mechanical part of the tool.
If the engine does not hum when turned on, it is more likely that the motor has broken down. Having opened the cover of the device, it is necessary to determine what exactly led to this phenomenon. This may be an open circuit in the power supply, a broken start button, or a short circuit in the coil windings. With the help of a tester, a specific cause is determined and appropriate repairs are made.
The drill does not hold in the cartridge and flies out
Incontinence tooling punch can happen during long-term use. The drill or chisel inserted into the cartridge does not hold and flies out during operation. With such a tool, it is not only impossible to continue chiselling, it is also very dangerous - a chisel that has flown out can cause injury.
The cause of tool incontinence lies in the wear or breakage of the cartridge. The cartridge must be disassembled and determine what the problem is. Perhaps the balls were deformed, a wear appeared on the restrictive ring, or the fixing spring sank. Usually, after replacing the damaged part, the cartridge starts to function normally again.
Video: why drills fly out of a puncher
Sparkle brushes
Sparking of brushes is a fairly common phenomenon when working with a tool in dusty conditions. As a rule, sparking is a consequence of the development of the material of the brushes themselves. Replacing the latter with new ones will help to correct the situation, sparks will no longer fly out.
If not, the cause must be sought in the stator or rotor windings. It is possible that a large amount of dust entering the motor has led to abrasion of the protective varnish covering the copper conductors. And this entails a short circuit. The presence of an interturn circuit is checked by electrical devices (multimeter).
Measuring the resistance between the lamellas is done with a multimeter
Preventive maintenance of the tool: replacement of brushes, lubrication of the bearings of the working shaft of the rotor and additional varnishing of the windings on the coils will reduce the likelihood of breakdowns.
In addition, it should be taken into account that dust can adhere to the grease of the bearing located next to the manifold. To prevent this, the collector is degreased with a swab dipped in alcohol or solvent.
The drill gets very hot
If the hammer drill becomes excessively hot during operation, this is a clear sign of a malfunction in the electric motor. First of all, to prevent overheating, it is necessary to observe the operating mode of the device:
- pause at certain intervals;
- after loads, allow the tool to idle.
If the body temperature does not decrease, then you need to revise the electric motor. If you feel a characteristic smell from under the casing of the tool, you must immediately stop working and disconnect the device from the network. It can be disassembled only after complete cooling.
Hammer drill does not hold cartridge
Sometimes there is a situation when a cartridge flies along with the tooling on a working puncher. This is due to wear on the chuck body mount at the end of the raster sleeve, which is a retaining ring. If it breaks, the fixation is broken and during the push the rubber boot flies off, followed by the spring and balls.
You can restore the normal operation of the cartridge by installing a new retaining ring. This is done quickly and does not require any accessories other than a regular screwdriver.
Replacing the main components of the perforator
Replacement of key elements is best done before the part becomes unusable. This will protect the tool from more severe damage, which will be more expensive and time consuming to repair. Most often you have to replace:
- bearings;
- start buttons;
- brushes;
- cartridge.
How to change bearings
If, during a preventive inspection, grease drips are noticeable on the bearing, it cracks or crunches when scrolling by hand, this means that it is time to replace it. The bearing is dismantled using a special puller, consisting of a screw part and a device for gripping the bearing sleeve housing. Tightening the thread creates a force that removes the bearing from the shaft.
The puller is actuated by rotating the threaded rod
Installing a new bearing workplace produced with stuffing with a rubber or wooden mallet. When installing, it is important to prevent misalignment of the bearing axis relative to the shaft axis. Lubricant is applied to the part after installation.
How the start button changes
To replace the start button, you must remove the cover that covers the electrical equipment of the punch. Then you should disconnect the contacts of the conductors connected to it, and pull the button body out of the seat. Install a new button in this place, connect the contacts and assemble everything in the reverse order.
The button turns on the motor and regulates its speed
How to remove and change brushes
Replacement of carbon brushes of a collector is carried out by an electric screw-driver. If you unscrew the cover, you will have access to the brushes. Each part is removed one by one from the brush holder sockets. In some models, the device of the clamping mechanism is different, as a rule, it is a spiral spring, which must be removed during replacement.
The procedure for replacing the cartridge is clear from the procedure for disassembling the punch described above.
Features in the repair of a barrel puncher
All the described procedures for assembling and disassembling the mechanisms of perforators are also valid for its barrel variety. However, there are several nuances that must be considered when repairing it. The vertical arrangement of the engine at right angles to the percussion mechanism somewhat changes the order of disassembly. So, to gain access to the gearbox and piston, it is necessary to remove the plastic cover located at the top of the tool casing. This facilitates the repair of the mechanical part of the device, if the shock function suddenly disappears.
Access to the electrical part of such a puncher is carried out after removing the lower casing. And the replacement of brushes is simplified, since there are holes on the sides of the glass through which they can be easily removed.
It should be noted that many professional barrel drills do not have a drilling mode. Since their purpose is mainly to drill and chisel heavy concrete surfaces, they are equipped with an SDS-max chuck with an 18 mm shank. There is no fundamental difference in the device of the SDS-plus cartridge, but the dimensions differ markedly. L-shaped perforators are recognized as more reliable in operation and belong to the rank of a professional tool.
Video: how to repair a rotary hammer with a vertical engine
Daily maintenance and storage of the hammer drill
In order for the tool to serve for a long time and properly, you need to follow simple rules.
- Before starting work, conduct a cursory inspection of the technical condition of the tool. In no case do not ignore the signs of a malfunction, if any.
- At the end of the work, clean the perforator from dust and debris. It is advisable to blow it with a stream of air from a vacuum cleaner.
- When transporting in the cold season, before starting work, give the device at least 20 minutes to “acclimatize” the device. The grease should thaw and become elastic.
- Operate in accordance with the rules of operation described in technical passport tool.
Store the perforator in a dry and warm place. For long-term preservation, it is recommended to pack in a plastic bag and a cardboard box. Avoid contact with moisture on electrical parts, including condensate from the air.
Case - the best place for storing punch
Aware means armed. Knowing the intricacies of the perforator mechanism, you can repair the tool yourself and in the shortest possible time. However, if you look under the casing of the puncher in a timely manner, clean and lubricate the mechanisms, then it is quite possible that you will not have to resort to repairs at all. Regular Maintenance The appliance will help prolong its life.
beautiful and indispensable assistant how in household, and in production is a perforator. This tool is able to comfortably solve the most complex tasks, as it has many universal properties. It is intended for drilling holes in various materials, removing walls and partitions, drilling rocks and road surfaces. A hammer drill is used under heavy loads, so over time it may experience various malfunctions.
According to the type of drive, perforators can be conditionally divided:
Depending on the application, this tool may have three main modes of operation:
- drilling. In this mode, the device works like a drill.
- Drilling with translational percussive motion. This mode is used when it is necessary to make holes in concrete or brick.
- The jackhammer mode involves the percussive movement of the tool without its rotation.
- light (2-4 kg), used in domestic conditions and having a power of 400-700 W;
- medium (5 kg) punchers with a power of 700-200 W are professional tools;
- heavy, with a weight of more than 5 kg and a power of more than 1200 W, are used in construction.
Structurally, electric rotary hammers can be made with a horizontal (simple) and vertical (barrel) engine arrangement.
The device of the whole mechanism
Regardless of the design of the device and the functions of its application, all models (Bosch, Makita, Stern, Energomash, Interskol) have similar components.
The perforator consists of the following parts:
Unlike an ordinary drill, a hammer drill has increased impact function, which is very important advantage under mechanical action on the processed material. This kind of work is achieved own mechanism creating a push of the working device, which relieves the operator of the use of physical effort when chiseling or drilling stone, brick or concrete.
rotational movement electric motor converted into translational vibration percussion instrument by creating compression between the working pistons. This movement is active transmitted to percussion devices(chisel, drill or spatula). Having studied the device of the perforator, the repair of the malfunctions that have arisen is much easier and more efficient.
Conventionally, all tool damage can be divided into two main groups - electrical and mechanical.
Mechanical damage. Often, a mechanical type malfunction can even be detected by ear. The appearance of a rattle and increased noise during the operation of the device signal the operator about the need to check and repair the hammer. It is also possible to increase the vibration of the device and the appearance bad smell from the body of the device.
Mechanical failures include:
- breakdown of the device that switches the operating modes of the device;
- premature wear of the rubber seals of the striker and drummer;
- damage to the impact mechanism;
- unit barrel wear;
- breakage of the working teeth of the gears;
- malfunction of the cartridge for holding percussion devices.
The occurrence of such problems is most often due to a violation of the rules for the operation and maintenance of this device.
Electrical faults
This type of breakdown can also be accompanied by the appearance of an unpleasant odor from the body of the device, as well as the presence of sparks when the engine rotates. Particular attention should be paid to the appearance of smoke and the rapid heating of parts of the electric motor.
To malfunctions electric type relate:
Without knowledge of the basics of electrical engineering, it is better not to repair a perforator with your own hands, it is advisable to contact a specialist.
Repair of any device begins with a careful and careful disassembly of the unit. If the design of the device is poorly understood, it is better to photograph each stage of disassembly, so that in the future it will be easier to carry out the process of reassembling the element.
The elimination of almost any malfunction of the rotary hammer implies its partial or complete disassembly. The only exception is damage to the electrical plug of the unit. Due to the fact that almost all models of rotary hammers are structurally the same, the process of disassembling them is carried out in a similar way.
Do-it-yourself repair of a perforator cartridge begins after it is removed from the unit itself. The cartridge is disassembled with a flat screwdriver after removing the working device. When a drill, chisel or drill is stuck in a chuck, it can sometimes be difficult to get them out. If the device is jammed, then you need to add a few drops of lubricant inside and gently tap the cartridge with a rubber mallet. After a few minutes of pause, a second attempt to remove the tool will be successful. Next, disassemble the cartridge:
- It is necessary to pull the plastic skirt down.
- Using a screwdriver, pry up and remove the protective rubber boot.
- Gently open and remove the circlip located behind the boot.
- Then remove the plastic boot, locking plates, spring and balls.
- All removed parts must be cleaned of debris and old grease.
During dismantling, care must be taken inspect all components of the cartridge to identify faulty parts. The question of how to change the cartridge on a puncher is easily solved if you have a spare, fully serviceable part of the device. Its replacement is carried out with the complete assembly of the device after the damage has been eliminated.
- Set the jackhammer mode on the switch.
- Then we turn the lever a little lower, while simultaneously pressing the button until a characteristic click is heard.
- We pull the switch towards ourselves, prying it with a screwdriver, remove it from the case. In some models, this device can be attached with screws.
Dismantling and repair of the electrical part of the puncher
If there is a suspicion that the unit has a malfunction in the operation of the electric motor, then it is necessary to dismantle the electrical part of the device. During disassembly, it is necessary to check the serviceability of parts of the mechanism that could break during operation.
Disassembly diagram:
If it is necessary to disassemble the barrel puncher, first remove the handle of the device, and then unscrew the bolts holding the engine.
Brush replacement
The main symptom of a brush failure is the presence of sparks in the collector area, engine overheating and the presence of a burning smell.
The brushes are located in special holders and are pressed against the anchor by springs. This element will have to be replaced after the wear of the plates by a third of the nominal value. To provide good contact during work, new brushes need to be polished to the rotating part of the engine. For this, a piece of fine-grained sandpaper on the motor manifold and rotational movements achieve rounding working surface brushes.
Three types of brushes can be used in perforators:
- Coal - easily rubbed, but wear out very quickly.
- Graphite brushes have a harder surface and therefore are more durable.
- Carbon-graphite contacts are considered ideal option brushes.
Necessarily rotor and stator need to be cleaned devices from coal or graphite dust using a technical alcohol solution.
Repairing damage to the stator and rotor of an electric motor is a big problem for an inexperienced craftsman. Preventive measures for cleaning and lubricating the rotating parts of the unit will be appropriate here. Breakdown and short circuit of the winding determined with a multimeter, while repairing such breakdowns is difficult due to the compact and dense arrangement of parts.
Impact mechanism repair
The design of percussion mechanisms differs from the type of perforator. Therefore, the elimination of the cause of the malfunction has its own small differences.
At the barrel unit, the impact block functions on the basis of a crank mechanism. The main malfunction of such a device is the wear of bearings and rotating parts. Their repair consists in installing new parts, while you need take into account the strict compliance of the brand of the element for this model.
For a unit with a horizontal engine, the piston of the percussion mechanism is driven by a swinging (drunk) bearing. Most often, damage to this assembly occurs due to wear of such a bearing. When replacing it, special attention should be paid to cleaning the gearbox from possible small fragments of a damaged element and subsequent lubrication of the installed parts.
And also the reason that the unit does not hit can be a broken striker, which must also be replaced with a new element.
After all repair work, it is important to correctly and accurately assemble the hammer drill, since the density of many of its elements requires precise articulation during assembly.
For a long and safe operation of the perforator, some recommendations should be strictly observed:
Performing these simple steps helps to avoid premature wear your assistant. Remember that it is easier to prevent a breakdown than to fix it later.
Everyone who has ever had to work with a hammer drill knows how difficult the conditions for its operation are. That is why do-it-yourself puncher repair is such a popular request on the Internet. And today we will tell you absolutely everything related to the repair of this tool.
What do you need to know about hammer drill repair?
Undoubtedly, the owners of such expensive equipment want their devices to be of high quality, to do their job 100%. First of all, the correct use of the tool will save you from serious damage, which we will talk about a little later. And, of course, timely repair of the device. At the same time, any small failure should already be a cause for concern and preparation for repair.
So, such "beacons" can be:
- Unstable operation of the perforator in operating mode;
- The appearance of strange sounds when the punch is turned on;
- The smell of burning;
- The perforator does not hammer, although there are no apparent reasons for this.
As soon as something like this happened to your equipment, then it's time for repairs. Like any similar work, it requires attentiveness, understanding the cause of the breakdown and knowing how to deal with it. And your very first step in the repair is disassembling the tool into its components. For many, even this stage causes difficulties, and therefore it is necessary to know everything to the nuances - how, what and why!
We disassemble the hammer drill step by step - a quick search for a breakdown
Just imagine that your tool suddenly stopped working or you urgently needed to replace some defective part. The easiest way is to take it to a service center for repair, but this takes time, which means it will stop your work for some period. But if you know how the device is disassembled, it will be much easier for you to carry out the rest of the work. In addition, this will lead to significant cost savings, because it will not be necessary to spend money on paying for the services of repair centers.
Instructions for disassembling the tool:
- We start work, starting with the upper node: first, the rubber tip is removed, after that - the washer, spring, the ball completes the work.
- After you have removed the ball, unscrew the screws that hold the body, remove the cover on the handle, if any, and lastly disconnect the stator wires.
- Take out the brush holder.
- The next stage is the separation of the gearbox and housing until a gap is formed. It is through it that we will remove the switch.
- After that, the body of the puncher is placed vertically, fixed with a vice, and all its parts are carefully removed from the device.
No matter what kind of breakdown awaits you, clean the case - sometimes it is dirt and dust that prevent the device from working normally.
Punch repair yourself step by step
To repair a device such as a puncher, you should be as prepared as possible, which will reduce financial and labor costs to a minimum. Not bad if you are more or less familiar with the design of the puncher, you know what parts and assemblies it consists of, which will allow you to quickly replace a broken part. Most often, the repair of a perforator comes down to a banal replacement of “flying” elements, which include:
- Anchor;
- brushes;
- gears;
- Starters;
- Bearings;
- Cables for connecting to the network;
- Switches.
It is worth noting that it is easiest to repair light class tools, given that such a perforator is perfect for carrying out construction works at home. But breakdowns of more serious equipment are much more difficult, and only professional craftsmen can handle them. In any case, no matter what class of tool you are interested in, find a model with a vacuum cleaner - this device will save you time on cleaning, and also make your work safer, because it reduces the amount of dust.
Another problem is in the breakdown of the windings, rewinding of the armature and starter, which also arise due to dust. Repair consists of thorough cleaning and replacement of those parts that cannot be repaired. However, "prevention" is a more reliable method. To do this, you need to clean the device every two weeks, impregnate it with varnish or grease. By the way, the choice of lubricant must be taken carefully. Yes, there are a few rules. First, it is better to purchase a solution from the same manufacturer ( Bosch, Makita, Enkor), as the perforator itself, in this case according to its composition, oil or varnish will fit perfectly. If there is no such composition at hand, diesel engine oil is perfect for you.
The second most common cause of failure is brush wear, and no matter how much your tool cost - even the most expensive models subject to this problem. It is very easy to replace them: we disassemble the punch according to the above described scheme, we find worn brushes and put new ones in their place. It is only necessary to correctly determine which of them is best to use: carbon, graphite or carbon-graphite. Yes, graphite is different. long term service, however, due to the hardness of the material, the collector may suffer. Carbon elements have a short life, but they have high-quality contact with other parts of the perforator. The purchase of the third option is considered optimal and inexpensive.
There are problems with the mechanical elements of the device. Each model is equipped with switching modes, and they often fail, especially on cheap devices. The algorithm of work is the same - we disassemble the puncher, find broken parts, replace them. The main thing is to purchase items suitable for this model. A similar problem often "haunts" cartridges that are subjected to maximum load. First of all, protect them from dust and dirt by washing the elements with grease. But if the cartridge is still broken, we will have no choice but to change it.
Now you know how to fix a hammer drill and you see that most of the breakdowns come down to simple cleaning or replacing faulty parts. But if you have disassembled the tool, and there are no visible reasons, it is better to take the device to a service center - specialists will quickly find the cause and eliminate it.
Rules of operation or how to protect the device from breakdowns?
Prevention is here effective method, which will avoid many breakdowns in the operation of the device. In this case, it implies the correct use. You should start with how to insert the drills correctly: we firmly grasp the chuck and pull the spindle axles. When the hole expands, you can install the drill by lowering the chuck. If you are going to work in impact mode, be sure to lubricate the shanks with grease, choosing it by manufacturer, but there is also a universal solution of the company Litol, also deserved a lot of positive feedback from users.
To prevent the drills from breaking, remember a few rules for working with materials. So, for example, you can not use shock mode if you have to work with metal or wood products.
To protect yourself and save when drilling concrete, use a safety clutch. And all due to the fact that there can be reinforcement in concrete structures - the drill will simply get stuck in it. If there is no clutch, use low speeds, and do not hold on to the handle very tightly - if suddenly the tool gets stuck in the armature, you must quickly release it from your hands, otherwise bruises and bruises cannot be avoided.
Household perforator - universal and useful tool, which solves the most difficult tasks of removal and drilling concrete walls and ceilings, drilling stones, pavement, etc. It is used under constant loads, and over time, individual parts of the mechanism or electrics may fail. Quality product it is expensive, so some breakdowns can be fixed with your own hands, the main thing is to know the device and the principle of operation of this tool, indispensable in construction.
Features and device of a construction puncher
Regardless of the type of tool, its power and scope, most modern models, including such popular brands as Makita, Bosh, Stihl, Stern, Metabo, Interskol, etc., have a similar design and consist of the main elements: cartridge, impact mechanism, gearbox, motor, power button, mode switch and connecting cord.
Some versions are equipped with additional features such as anti-vibration system, shock frequency control and drilling depth limiter. Unlike a classic drill, the hammer drill has a reinforced impact option, which allows it to be used to work with complex and durable materials, including concrete, natural stone, brick, etc.
The engine of the device creates a rotational movement, which is converted into a powerful and translational oscillation of the percussion mechanism (drill, blade or chisel) due to the principle of compression between the active pistons of the tool.
Some models, in addition to the basic functions of drilling and the jackhammer mode, can also have a drilling role. Such tools are considered universal, but they are more likely to fail due to a more complex mechanical system.
For drilling work, it is better to use a reliable drill, and use a hammer drill only according to its intended purpose. To avoid premature breakdowns of various parts, they also follow the rules for working with this tool and carry out preventive treatment (lubrication and cleaning of its individual elements).
Types and Troubleshooting
All emerging breakdowns of the perforator are usually divided into 2 categories depending on the nature of the damage:
- mechanical;
- electrical.
The former usually manifest themselves in additional noise, uncharacteristic rattles, increased vibration, etc. The most common mechanical failures include:
- failure of the mode switch;
- wear of rubber elements and seals on the striker;
- damage to the impact mechanism of the tool;
- wear of the main barrel during long-term operation;
- malfunction of gears and breakage of the cartridge-holder of the drill or blade.
Such problems most often occur when the tool is used improperly or when it is used for a long time under high loads. Repair of a puncher for each of the above breakdowns can be done with your own hands, but sometimes you still need the help of specialists.
Appearance electrical faults understand by the smell of burning from the body of the device, sparking during switching on and operation, rapid overheating of the engine, uncharacteristic "buzz" inside the mechanism, the formation of smoke, etc. In terms of electrics, such frequent breakdowns are distinguished as:
- problems with turning on / off the puncher;
- brush wear or clogging of the collector on the motor;
- weak circuit contact;
- problems with the rotor and stator of the engine;
- battery failure (on pneumatic models).
The solution to most electrical breakdowns is corrected independently only with electrical knowledge. In other cases, it is better to contact a specialist in this field so as not to permanently damage the working device.
Disassembly of the chuck and tool body for repair
To eliminate one or more of the malfunctions that have arisen, you should know how to properly disassemble and assemble the hammer drill. The main thing is to follow the algorithm of actions and safety precautions and have at hand necessary tools. If to be difficult process disassembly and repair, it is better to photograph each stage, so that later it would be easier to assemble it back.
The dismantling of the cartridge begins with the removal of the rubber boot (1). Then, with a flat screwdriver, carefully pry off the retaining ring (2) and remove a similar plastic part(3). Next, they begin to remove the main washer (4), at this stage it is important not to lose a small metal ball (or several pieces, depending on the model), which is located under the washer. Now the remaining elements are sequentially removed - the spring (6) and the plate (5).
Wear on one of the above parts causes the drill to get stuck in the chuck, causing normal work tool is not possible. The damaged element should be replaced, and all other components should be thoroughly cleaned, lubricated and reinstalled in reverse order.
To remove and disassemble the main body above the mechanical part of the hammer, it is necessary to remove the operating mode switch. The roller with the sensor is set to the working position "jackhammer" with the corresponding icon in the form of the letter "T". Next, click on the button right side indicator and gently pull it down until it clicks.
Now pry off the switch with a flat screwdriver and pull it towards you. On some types of instrument, it can be screwed to the body with screws that are simply unscrewed.
Disassembly of the case in case of electrical damage
If everything is in order with the mechanical part of the device, and during operation there are signs that indicate the electrical nature of the breakdown, it is necessary to remove the plastic casing and, if necessary, disassemble the engine and its accompanying parts.
The back cover on almost all models is fastened with screws, after removing the switch, they are unscrewed around the perimeter and carefully, so as not to break the casing elements, remove the plastic case. Now they're twisting fastener network cable, next remove the wiring from the mounts and remove the start button.
All wires going to the stator are also removed, after which the motor brushes are removed, which are fixed on several bolts. If there is a problem with the rotor in the gearbox, then it is dismantled, after which the bearings damaged in it are changed using a special tool. If necessary, remove the air intake and remove the stator from the casing, gently tapping it with a wooden object.
Do-it-yourself motor brush replacement
The need for new brushes appears in the presence of a characteristic smell of burning from the body of the perforator, strong heating of the engine during operation and sparking in the collector area. In the normal state of this part, a spark sometimes occurs directly under the brushes, but if sparking occurs throughout the commutator area, then the problem lies in the rotor bearings or burnt out plates.
In this situation, it is quite difficult to repair the instrument with your own hands. To detect malfunctions of the stator or rotor, alternately measure the resistance on them using an electrical tester, it must be the same and consistent on both windings. Otherwise, it is better to contact the service center, but they solve the problem with the brushes on their own.
To replace them, remove the back cover and motor mount inside the device. After that, the parts are removed from the holding boxes along with the springs. There are 2 types of brushes in perforators:
- Graphite. They are more durable and practical, but due to the hardness of the material they do not fit snugly against the stator, which leads to its wear during long-term operation.
- Coal. They wear out faster than the first, but have a better fit, which positively affects the performance of the stator.
On more expensive and powerful models of rotary hammers, combined options details, with graphite and coal in equal proportions. Experts recommend inspecting the motor brushes every year of tool operation in order not to wait for their complete wear and sparking of the motor. They are changed when worn 1/3 of the initial volume (8-10 mm).
Pay attention to the condition of the springs that are installed on these parts and on the fastening of the contacts. If during operation the iron flies off, this will lead to serious damage to the engine, and loose contacts reduce the performance of the tool. Before installing new brushes, the main parts of the engine are cleaned of coal or graphite dust and other contaminants with medical alcohol.
The device and repair of the impact mechanism on the "barrel" perforators
Percussion mechanisms are distinguished depending on the type and purpose of a particular hammer drill. Barrel or vertical options Bosch or Makita, on which the engine is mounted vertically, mostly have impact blocks based on a connecting rod mechanism (KShM).
Most often, a special rolling bearing fails, which is installed either at the base of the main connecting rod, or on the cam wheel with an eccentric. On some models, this part is replaced by a sleeve bearing, which must be constantly and generously lubricated.
Another common problem is a broken firing pin. It is evidenced by the weak impact properties of the perforator or their absence at all. To replace this part, you need to disassemble the mechanical barrel of the tool according to the following scheme.
First, the barrel is disconnected from the body of the perforator. To do this, the cartridge is removed according to the above technology, after which the barrel is tapped on the tabletop until the piston comes out of it, and then the body is knocked out with a hammer and removed required part.
Now remove the retaining ring that holds the piston in position. Next, the bearing itself is taken out, from which the metal balls are also removed.
This allows you to get to the raster sleeve, from which the balls are also removed. It is important not to confuse them with those that were in the bearing, they are smaller in diameter. At the final stage, a flat screwdriver is inserted into the sleeve and the broken striker is pushed out.
In addition to this detail, the seals and seals in the barrel body are additionally inspected. If they are worn out, they are replaced with new ones.
Repair of the impact mechanism on horizontal type tools
With a horizontal engine (on many Bosch, Hitachi, Energomash, etc. models), another shock block system is also performed. In it, instead of a connecting rod, an oscillating bearing is installed on the piston, which sets it in motion. He is also common cause failure of the perforator, namely the loss of impact qualities, when the device simply does not hammer as it should.
Remove the worn part with a flat screwdriver, which pry the bracket on the gearbox housing and remove it. After that, the bearing is easily separated from the main body, and the gearbox itself is thoroughly washed, as fragments of the old part may remain inside. And after installing a new bearing, re-lubricate with a dense layer of a suitable material.
If the reason lies in the striker, then to remove it from the barrel, remove the retaining ring with a screwdriver, which is inserted into the hole and shifted towards the gears on both sides. With the same screwdriver, they push through the body and remove the broken striker from it. When reassembling the impact mechanism, be sure to apply a layer of lubricant to all metal parts.
Elimination of other mechanical failures
If a special mode switch fails, which occurs due to clogging with dirt and construction dust, it is removed according to the instructions described above, cleaned and installed back or replaced with a new one if it is broken.
With the loss of drilling properties and long-term operation of the perforator, the gear teeth on the rotor shaft may be worn out. The problem often occurs if the tool is used incorrectly (too heavy loads) or due to a malfunction and interruption in the operation of the clutch.
If the drill, drill or blade simply does not hold in the chuck, it is necessary to disassemble it and replace the ball, stop ring or retaining spring. If the drill gets stuck inside the chuck, the reason lies either in insufficient lubrication on the shank (it can be solved by additional injection of WD-40 under sealing gum), or the holder has been riveted.
In this case, additional lubricant is applied and after some time the drill is manually pulled out, loosening it in different sides. If this does not help, then disassemble the cartridge and mechanically knock out the tooling with a hammer.
To avoid a large number of problems with the puncher, you must follow the rules for its operation:
- at the end of all work, be sure to remove all debris, dust and dirt accumulated in the cartridge;
- while drilling concrete structures observe the frequency of work (every 2-3 cm, the drill is removed from the wall and allowed to cool slightly);
- carry out preventive lubrication of external and internal parts tool, especially during its long-term operation;
- observe the rules for storing the puncher in a plastic packaging box, in a room with low humidity.
Normal operation of a high-quality rotary hammer will avoid technical breakdowns for a long period of time. Buy only models from trusted manufacturers and use the tool strictly for its intended purpose. If you are not sure where and what type of failure your device has, you should not experiment with it. It is better to contact specialists or a service center if it is covered by a factory warranty.
