Electrical equipment for sauna. Which wire to use for baths and saunas. Distribution panel and load calculation

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Sauna is the Finnish name for our bathhouse. In Russia and other countries, any steam room with dry steam is considered a sauna. But this is a mistaken opinion. The Finns don't understand this kind of sauna. However, as a rule, a bathhouse and a sauna are practically twin brothers. Both here and there they wave birch brooms, and here and there they add steam, pouring water from a ladle onto the heater.

The usual temperature in a sauna ranges from 70 to 110 degrees. In Finland, there are no less than 2 million saunas per 5 million population. In Russia, saunas are also very popular. Warming up in a sauna leads to improvement functional state systems and organs of the body, promotes the development of compensatory and protective mechanisms, improves metabolism, calms nervous system, increases mental activity and activates vigor. This is due to the beneficial effects of sweating and heat on the respiratory, cardiovascular, endocrine and thermoregulatory systems of most people.

To prevent a trip to the sauna from being marred by troubles, the electrical wiring in the bathhouse/sauna must be installed very carefully and correctly. To ensure that the electrical wiring in the bathhouse with your own hands is efficient and of high quality, listen to our recommendations.

Saunas are fire hazardous facilities containing many harmful factors for electrical wiring, and, accordingly, for the life and health of people, as well as the integrity of the sauna itself. Therefore, if possible, use the help of professionals to install electrical wiring in the sauna. If for some reason you decide that installing electrical wiring in a bathhouse is quite feasible for you, pay close attention to fire safety requirements.

Electrical wiring in the bathhouse should be designed taking into account high humidity and high temperature. If your sauna is built of wood, then the installation of wiring in the bath should be of the highest quality and responsible due to the likelihood of fire. In sauna rooms that are not rooms with high temperature and humidity, it is recommended to lay the VVGng-LS cable (for connecting sockets and cable for connecting lighting). The insulation of this sauna cable does not support combustion and has a low smoke level during smoldering. Wiring in the bathhouse/sauna is preferably in flame-retardant cable ducts. In those rooms where the temperature rises to high values, you need a cable (wire) that does not collapse at such temperatures. You can install wiring in a bathhouse in a corrugated pipe or cable duct, inside of which single wires of the brands PMTK, PRKA, RKGM or PRKS are located. These wires can easily withstand temperatures of 170°C. Electrical wiring in the bath/sauna should not have metal sheaths or pipes.
Naturally, after installation it is necessary to check the sauna cable for the integrity of the insulation.

The entire electrical wiring process can be divided into stages:
1. cable entry into the sauna/bath
2. installing a shield in the sauna/bath
3. cable routing from the panel in the bathhouse/sauna
4. connecting lamps in the bath/sauna
5. connecting sockets in the bathhouse/sauna
6. connecting an electric furnace in a bathhouse/sauna

Cable entry into the sauna/bath

Our sauna can be located both outside the home and in a residential area. If the sauna is located outside the building, then we will need to lay a power cable to the sauna building from the main distribution board.
The simplest and least labor-intensive way is overhead line. If there is a significant distance between the input panel and the sauna building, additional supports. It is recommended to use a self-supporting insulated self-supporting insulated cable. No cable is required for its installation; it is quite durable, strong and not afraid of ultraviolet radiation. We recommend that the entry into buildings be carried out in an insulating pipe through the wall.
The cable can be inserted into the sauna and into the ground, but this is more difficult. Underground entry into a house is much more expensive both in terms of installation and materials. Although it also has its advantages. This is primarily the design of the site itself; there are no hanging wires. This power supply, like all work related to the power supply of a building (house, cottage, cottage, plot), has certain installation rules. When entering underground, the cable is laid in the ground at a depth of 70 cm. For installation, it is customary to use an armored cable with copper conductors. It is allowed to lay an unarmored cable at a depth of half a meter if it is reliably protected from damage by pipes, for example. It is advisable to sprinkle fine river sand or soft soil at the bottom of the trench, then place the cable and, after filling 20 cm of soil, mark the location of the cable with signal tape or bricks. This will protect the cable from damage when earthworks in the territory. After tape or brick, add soil to ground level. The cable must be introduced into the building in an insulating pipe. Laying cables under building foundations is not permitted. Underground input is preferable from an aesthetic point of view.
If the sauna is located in a residential building, then input is much easier. The cable can be inserted into the sauna panel openly in boxes and corrugated tubes, or hidden under a layer of plaster.
As mentioned above, a bathhouse is a place with high humidity and elevated temperature. Therefore, do-it-yourself wiring in a bathhouse should be done taking these factors into account.

Installation of a shield in a sauna/bath

The distribution panel in the sauna serves to transfer energy to consumers. Since the entire energy system of the sauna will be powered from the shield, the reliability of operation and health safety will depend on its condition and proper functioning. So that the electrical wiring in a bathhouse built with your own hands is durable, great importance You need to pay attention to connecting the electrical panel.
The location for the shield must be chosen carefully. Firstly, there must be free access to it, which in no case should be cluttered. Secondly, the shield should not be placed in a poorly ventilated place. Thirdly, the shield should not be placed in fire hazardous areas with high temperatures (for example, a steam room).
Fourthly, it is desirable that the electrical panel be illuminated by a natural light source, which is important when working with the meter (if it is important to know the amount of energy consumed by the sauna) when the voltage is turned off. Usually the shield is located in the presence of a vestibule in it, or in a rest room. As a rule, the panel consists of input and output circuit breakers and RCDs (residual current devices). The shield is hung in such a way that its upper part is located at a height of 1.4-1.8 m.
If the wiring in the bathhouse/sauna is single-phase, the power cable must consist of at least three cores. According to the latest GOST, the phase conductor must be gray, however, you can buy a cable from old stocks, where the phase core may be of other colors (white, brown). The phase conductor sits on the upper terminal of the input circuit breaker, and from the bottom terminal with jumpers it goes to the upper terminals of all outgoing circuit breakers or is routed to circuit breakers of more in a modern way distribution - through distribution buses. Accordingly, the zero core (usually blue or blue color) sits on the zero block, and the protective block (usually yellow-green) sits on the protective block or on the welded bolt of the shield itself. The phase conductors of the cables going to the load are connected to the lower contacts of the machines. We carefully lay the input and output cables in the shield and remove them from the shield using a corrugated pipe. Automatic devices and RCDs must be installed depending on the consumed load of the consumer.
Now a few words about choosing the cable cross-section. Depending on the wiring diagram in the bathhouse/sauna, you need to select the cable cross-section, for which you need to calculate the approximate load that the wiring in your sauna will carry. If in the sauna you only have lighting, then the total power will be no more than 1-2 kW.
If you need to operate any additional electrical appliances in the sauna, then you should calculate their approximate total power. If you do not have a particularly powerful consumer, such as an electric furnace, for example, then the total power of your sauna will not exceed 5-6 kW. Please note that electrical appliances usually have their power consumption written on them. Depending on the total power received, we select the cable cross-section. It is advisable to take a 20% power reserve. That is, if our total power is, for example, 5 kW, then we must calculate the wiring according to the value 5 * 1.2 = 6 kW. For this power, we need an input cable with a cross-section of 4 mm2 (). There are special tables for selecting the cross section based on the power of consumers. It is advisable to conduct the cables leaving for lighting with a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2 (), to the socket group with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 (). It is advisable to conduct all wiring with copper. Based on the total power, we calculate the current that needs to be known to select the input machine. The current is calculated using a formula known from school and is found by dividing our load by the network voltage. In our case, the current is 6000 / 220 = 27 A. The machine should be selected an order of magnitude greater than the obtained current value. You should choose a 32 A machine. Outgoing machines in groups should be selected according to the same principle.
It is advisable to sign in the panel which machine is responsible for which group of energy consumer, and it is also desirable that the panel contains a wiring diagram for the bathhouse/sauna.
In a sauna, RCDs (residual current devices) must be used. They will help save the lives of you and your loved ones, as well as the sauna itself from fire. To protect against fire, it is necessary to install an RCD with a cut-off current of 100 mA at the input in our panel, and an RCD with a cut-off current of 10 mA at the socket group.
We advise you to pay special attention to good fixation of the cores in the terminal block clamps. A bad clamp causes the area to heat up and can cause the contact to burn and the terminal to burn out.
Under no circumstances do any work when the wiring in the bathhouse/sauna is live, as this is very dangerous and can result in electric shock. Even qualified electricians rarely work under voltage! It is prohibited to store foreign objects in the shield, with the exception of the circuit diagram!

Cable routing from the panel in the bathhouse/sauna

It is recommended that the cables extending from the panel be routed in one piece. Wire cross-sections are calculated depending on the expected load. It is recommended to use cables with copper conductors. If the walls of the sauna are wooden, then the electrical wiring in the bathhouse/sauna should be carried out in boxes or corrugated. If the walls are brick, then it is advisable to hide the cables under a layer of plaster. No twists, switches or sockets should be located in rooms with high humidity and high temperature. Thus, switches and sockets must be located in rest rooms or dressing rooms. Accordingly, mounting boxes are also prohibited in these rooms due to a certain likelihood of moisture accumulation with an unnamed short circuit.
The latest edition of the PUE generally prohibits any twisting in places indicated by the wiring diagram in the bathhouse/sauna. The PUE obliges the conductors of wires to be connected by welding or soldering, but twisting also has the right to life, subject to strict measures of protection from high temperatures and humidity.
It is recommended to use protective grounding in saunas. So even at the construction stage it would be useful to apply steel mesh equalization of potential over waterproofing under concrete base. The mesh, naturally, must be connected to the protective circuit.
Wires from junction boxes should only go at right angles, this is especially true when hidden wiring. This is necessary to easily locate the cable in the wall. Do not run cables above the stove. The wiring in the bath/sauna should not have metal sheaths or pipes.

Connecting lamps in a bath/sauna

Sauna lights should be selected based on the high temperature and high level humidity. They must be very reliably protected from water in the sauna. Lamps must be selected that are waterproof with a protection class of at least IP-44. The lampshades should be made of glass, and the body should preferably be metal. Plastic housing is not recommended due to possible deformation at high temperatures. The iron housings must be connected to the protective conductor of the cable. It is recommended to use lamps with a power limited to 75 W.
The wiring diagram in the bathhouse/sauna will tell you where to place the lighting fixtures. Placing luminaires on the ceiling is fraught with danger. Under the ceiling the most heat, negatively affecting both the lamp itself and those nearby wooden structures. The placement of lamps on walls, where the temperature is significantly lower, has become widespread. In the steam room and washing room, it is advisable to use low-voltage voltage (12V), for which step-down transformers are used, located outside these rooms. Lamps with fluorescent lamps are prohibited from being installed in saunas.
In the rest room or dressing room, you can place lamps with fewer requirements.
The regulations prohibit the installation of light switches located directly in steam rooms and washing rooms.

Connecting sockets in the bath/sauna

Considering the aggressive conditions of saunas and baths, significant restrictions are imposed on sockets. Thus, sockets are prohibited from being located in steam rooms and washing rooms. They can only be used in the rest room and dressing room at a height of 90 cm. The protection class of the socket is selected to be at least IP-44. It is advisable to use sockets with covers. Sockets are installed on the walls depending on the wiring diagram in the bathhouse/sauna.

Connecting an electric furnace in a bath/sauna

Electric stoves are a modern version of wood-burning heaters. Electric ovens also heat up quickly, however, their undeniable advantage is their compactness, manufacturability and ease of use. Modern stoves give the opportunity to exhibit optimal temperature and are not clogged with coals and ash.
To connect an electric furnace, you need wires that can withstand, firstly, high temperatures (up to 170 °C) and, secondly, high power consumption (4 kW on average), which should be reflected in the wiring diagram in the bathhouse/sauna. Your choice for connecting an electric furnace may be wiring in a corrugated pipe or cable duct, inside of which there are single wires of the brands PMTK, PRKA, RKGM or PRKS. Copper cable for an electric furnace with a cross section of 3*2.5 mm, it can withstand about 5 kW of load. In order not to pull an expensive cable to the panel, it is acceptable to stretch the wires of PMTC, PRKA, RKGM or PRKS to a mounting box located outside the zone of high humidity and temperature, and then go from the box with a regular cable, for example, to an electrical panel.

The PUE recommends concealed installation of electrical wiring in bathhouses, showers and steam rooms.
PUE (Electrical Installation Rules) - this can be said to be the “Bible” of an electrician. It is there that all the requirements and standards are described, applying which we will have high-quality and efficient electrical wiring in the bathhouse/sauna.
In bathrooms and showers, only electrical equipment that is specifically designed for use in the relevant areas of these premises should be used. The PUE does not allow the installation of plug sockets in bathrooms, steam rooms and soap rooms of saunas and baths. Any plug sockets and switches should be located at a distance of more than 60 cm from the shower door. In steam rooms, PUE insists on using wiring that can withstand high temperatures (up to 180°C). The PUE strongly recommends that all equipment not built into the electric heater be placed outside the sauna. The PUE insists on the presence of a temperature limiter in the steam room, which, when reaching 140°C, will disconnect the electric furnace from the voltage. Wiring in a bathhouse with your own hands is quite feasible if you use high-quality installation and high-quality electrical equipment, which is the key to your safety!

The bathhouse is a wonderful place where everyone can cleanse their body, relieve stress and gain strength. There is a stove in the wooden bathhouse, which turns it into a source of increased fire hazard. In addition to the stove, there is electrical wiring in the bathhouse, which only increases the risk of fire. The safety of vacationers often depends on the quality of the wires and their installation.

Connecting the power cable

Before making wiring in the bathhouse and steam room, you need to correctly let down power cable. This can be done underground or by air. The latter is faster and more profitable from an economic point of view. For carrying the power cable underground you will need more time and money.

Air installation method

If you choose the air method, then you need to take into account the strict requirements regarding heights cable location. Among them are the following:

The distance from the cable to the pedestrian part must be more than 3.5 m.
The cable must be located at a height of at least six meters above the roadway.
The distance between the supports on which the cable is attached should not exceed 25 m. Otherwise, additional support should be installed.
The power cable entry into the bathhouse must be at a height of at least 2.75 m.

At air In the connection method, SIP 4 (self-supporting insulating wire) without a supporting cable should be used. Make sure that core cross-section made of aluminum was equal to sixteen square millimeters. Depending on the input you select (two-phase or three-phase), it will change quantity lived in the cable.

The supply cable can be fastened to outside bathhouse buildings. Before doing this, you should place it in plastic box or corrugated pipe. At the point where the cable enters the building, it is installed boxing with a circuit breaker located in it. This is done because the rules forbidden introduce SIP into the bathhouse.

Use a four-way or two-way automatic switch. This choice depends on the number of phases. The SIP is connected directly to the switch, and a cable will come out of it, which will later be used for wiring in the bathhouse building. The hole in the wall to which the cable will be connected must be reinforced with a metal tube with grounding. It is not safe to use other tubes (for example, rubber ones), since over time they will become brittle and lose their insulating properties.

The power cable can be connected to the bathhouse building using a steel pipe:

To prevent moisture from entering, the top of the pipe should be bent into a half ring.
The lower end is secured with slight slope. It will be enough to tilt it towards the street by ten degrees.
The pipe is painted and a hole is drilled at its bottom to allow the accumulated condensate to drain out.
The top of the pipe is secured with through bolts, and the rest of the pipe is secured with clamps to the bathhouse building.
The power cable will be attached with wire to pins with insulators, which must be on the pipe. Choose aluminum wire for SIP cable.
The wires that will be used for wiring inside the bathhouse must be approved by the PUE.

Description of the underground option

This supply method is more expensive than the air supply method. However, an underground line is reliably protected from damage and will last longer than an overhead line. When supplying underground, you should use the more expensive VBBShV cable (armored with copper cores). It is much stronger than SIP due to the metal braid located between the two shells.

To lay the underground part of the cable, you need to dig a trench at least 70 cm deep. The bottom of the trench is filled with ten centimeters of sand, on which the cable is laid. Sand is poured on top and a row of bricks is laid. They are used for more reliable protection cable.

Angles and metal tubes are used to lower the cable vertically. Entry into the building is carried out in the same way as with an air connection.

Electrical wiring project

The first step is to draw up an electrical diagram for the bathhouse. If you are not one hundred percent sure of success, then entrust this matter to a professional who has experience in such work. No two baths are exactly alike, so the design of wiring and installation of electrical appliances is individual for each one.

Before drawing up the diagram, you need to clearly determine what the connection will be (single-phase or three-phase). Most often, a single-phase network is used, but if you plan to use powerful heating devices in the bathhouse, then it is better to give preference to a three-phase one. Single-phase will withstand a load of up to 14 kW, and three-phase - up to 42 kW.

At the drawing stage, it is worth thinking carefully and weighing all the pros and cons of the future project. It is important to clearly determine the number of electrical appliances that will be connected to the network and their names. All this will help to more accurately determine the quantity required wire, safety devices and their parameters.

The wiring design must include circuit breakers and residual current devices. The diagram should show the principle by which all parts of the circuit will be connected. At this stage it is important to avoid mistakes. If this is successful, then you will not have any problems with the wiring.

Before you begin choosing electrical equipment and wires, it is important to consider that all of them will be operated in conditions of high humidity and temperature. It would be advisable to use materials and equipment with a protection class of at least IP24.

Strict requirements are also placed on the cable in the bathhouse. This is especially true for wiring in the steam room and washing room. For them, you should choose a wire that can withstand temperatures up to 180 degrees. Also, the wiring in the steam room must withstand high humidity.

Based on the loads on individual lines and the entire network as a whole, automatic power-off devices are selected. All these parameters must be displayed in the project diagram. Each of the selected power disconnect devices must operate under certain conditions.

When choosing sockets and lighting fixtures, you should consider:

Safety level according to GOST (IP-44/IP-65).
Availability of rubber seals.
Lamps must be protected from water.
The base of the lamp must be made of corrosion-resistant materials.
The lamp lamp must have high-strength heat-resistant glass.
Do not use fluorescent lamps.

Best suited for washing LED bulbs. They shine well and allow you to save on electricity.

Installation: step by step instructions

After all materials have been purchased and a project has been developed, you can begin installing the electrical wiring. This work is responsible and requires increased attention.

The following must be followed step by step instructions and rules for installing electrical wiring in a bathhouse:

Installation is best done open method. In practice, it has been proven that this is a convenient and very safe solution. The only room where you can use hidden way, is a steam room. Open wiring is easily accessible and, if necessary, it can be easily repaired. For greater safety and durability, the wire is passed through corrugated pipe or baseboards.
All safety devices are installed in the separating panel. It must be well protected from moisture and made of special materials. The electrical panel is placed as close to the exit as possible, since the door has the lowest temperature and humidity. All wires that pass through the junction box must be routed through a corrugated pipe. All wire fastenings must be reliable to avoid heating them, the shield must be well grounded.
Under no circumstances should you use sockets and switches in the steam room. It will be enough to place them in the rest room and dressing room. Each of them must have protective covers.
All cables must be minimum size. It is important to properly and reliably ground each electrical appliance used.
All wires must be connected using terminals or soldering. The cable should only be laid in horizontal and vertical directions, and a right angle should be maintained at the transition point.

The bathhouse is a wonderful place for relaxation and recovery. To get maximum pleasure from your stay in it, you need not only to withstand all the nuances of construction, but also to carry out the wiring correctly. Only in this case will you fully enjoy the atmosphere and recharge your batteries for the next few days.

The choice of cable for laying in a bathhouse or sauna should be approached with the utmost responsibility, since not only the reliability of the electrical wiring, but also the safety of people depends on how correctly this choice is made. Peculiarity bath rooms is that the temperature in them can reach up to +170°C, and the humidity can reach 90%. For this reason, the cable must be suitable to meet these difficult conditions.

Of course, both a bathhouse and a sauna usually include more than one room, each of which has its own temperature regime, which is why a cable is required for different rooms different. They are quite suitable for laying a lighting network in a waiting room. But what about a steam room if you need to connect both lighting and an electric oven? This requires a special heat-resistant cable, and there may be several options.

Meanwhile, we must not forget that in wooden premises, even an ordinary cable for a waiting room must be protected plastic box, despite the fact that the room is almost dry. Domestic cables of the brands PPGng-HF 3*1.5, VVGng-LS 3*1.5 or NYM 3*1.5 are suitable for the first group of premises - for wiring lighting in dressing rooms. For sockets in dressing rooms, it is better that the wire cross-section is at least 2.5 sq. mm.

The second group of premises is the bathhouse or sauna itself. This is where a special heat-resistant cable is needed. Among the domestic options, the following are suitable: three RKGM 1*2.5, PVKV 1*2.5, PRKA 1*2.5 or PAL 1*2.5, or three-core PMTC 3*2.5, PNBS 3*2.5, or PRKS 3*2.5. The wiring, in addition to everything, must have protective grounding.

So, the following are most often used as heat-resistant cables for baths and saunas:

three RKGM 1*2.5;

three PVKV 1*2.5;

three PRKA 1*2.5;

three PAL 1*2.5;

“P”, “K” - insulation made of silicone rubber, “G”, “M” - bare copper core. The main purpose of this wire is to make terminals for electrical equipment that operates in the absence of harmful effects aggressive media and oils.

Characteristic of this type of wire is that it does not support combustion, is resistant to mold, resistant to high and low atmospheric pressure, as well as mechanical shock and vibration. Ozone and solar radiation are also unable to harm this wire.

Silicone rubber insulation and fiberglass braiding allow this cable to be safely used at temperatures up to +180°C, as well as at 100% humidity.

The conductor of the cable is stranded copper. The fiberglass braid of the cable is impregnated with heat-resistant silicone varnish. It is thanks to these advantages that the RKGM cable is often used as a heat-resistant cable for saunas and baths.

“P” - wire, “B” - for leads electric machines, “KV” - insulation made of two-layer silicone rubber. Designed for the manufacture of winding terminals of class “H”, for equipment operating in conditions free from exposure to oils and aggressive environments. Withstands temperatures up to +180°C, can work in conditions of high humidity.

A characteristic feature of the wire is the flexibility of the current-carrying core, which can withstand at least 20 bending cycles. Increased and decreased Atmosphere pressure safe for wire. The wire is resistant to vibrations and mechanical shocks. The insulation is resistant to mold and impregnating compounds and does not propagate fire. These qualities allow this wire to be used for wiring in baths and saunas.

“P” - wire with a copper conductor, “RK” - insulated with silicone rubber impregnated with an anti-rot compound, “A” - increased hardness. This cable is usually used for installation of electric heating devices, electric motors, and also often when installing electrical wiring in drying chambers, in saunas and baths. The wire insulation does not contain halogens, is flame retardant, resistant to mold, ozone, solar radiation, in addition, it has low smoke and gas emissions. The insulation can withstand temperatures up to +180°C and humidity up to 98%. The wire easily tolerates bends during installation.

“P” - wire, “A” - in asbestos insulation, “L” - varnished. This furnace wire can withstand temperatures of even +300°C for 3000 hours, however, when heated from +250°C, the insulation becomes toxic, and you need to keep this in mind. For fixed installation of electrical wiring in a bathhouse or sauna, this wire is perfect.

The wire is mechanically strong, abrasion-resistant, and resistant to gasoline, silicone varnish, and technical toluene. In the temperature range from -50°C to +200°C it is completely environmentally friendly. On top of the conductive core there is a single-layer asbestos roving impregnated with silicone varnish, then a film of fluoroplastic-4, on top of the fluoroplastic there is enameled asbestos yarn. Capable of withstanding 20 bending cycles.

“P” - wire, “M” - mounting, “T” - heat-resistant, “K” - insulated with silicone rubber. Designed for installation of equipment and electrical devices, including special applications, such as heating equipment, electric stoves, electric furnaces. Suitable for laying wiring in baths and saunas.

The stranded copper conductor in silicone insulation is UV resistant, suitable for installation in rooms with 100% humidity, and reliably serves in the temperature range from -60°C to +200°C. The wire insulation does not propagate fire when laid alone.

Wire for fixed installation in baths and saunas. Specialized wire for electrical wiring of electric heaters, electric furnaces and other equipment operating in rooms with elevated temperatures.

The copper conductors of the wire are insulated with silicone rubber, and the cable sheath is made of fluorosiloxane rubber. Fluorosiloxane rubber allows the cable to easily withstand temperatures up to +150°C.

If for ordinary wires in simple rubber insulation, connection directly to heating device is unacceptable, then the heat-resistant silicone insulation of the PNBS wire allows this.

Wire insulated from silicone rubber for use in baths and saunas. The cable sheath is also made of silicone rubber. The wire is quite flexible and does not deform due to changes in temperature and humidity. The shell is resistant to oils and gasoline.

The cable can safely withstand temperatures up to +250°C and does not become toxic if overheated. The multi-core design makes it possible to transmit power up to 30 kW via one PRKS cable.

Have you built a sauna and decided to get electrical wiring because you need voltage for lighting and various appliances, but you don’t know how to do it? Don't despair, we'll figure this out gradually. The main thing is to remember that this room has special conditions due to the proximity of water, the presence of steam and high temperature.

In order for the electrical wiring in the bathhouse to comply with safety standards, it is necessary to work out an installation plan, select, suitable tools, materials.

Basic requirements for creating wiring in a bathhouse

Due to the presence of conditions for the transmission of voltage to a person, special requirements to the wiring in the bathhouse, since there is water nearby and sources of influence on the integrity of the wires. Do not forget about the flammability of materials, since baths are usually made of wood; it can catch fire in the event of a short circuit somewhere in the network.

Let us highlight the list of basic requirements:

It is recommended to install the input distribution panel in a protected area of the building - this can be a special place allocated for it, a vestibule or a rest area. It is necessary to install an additional RCD or circuit breaker with a sensitivity to current leakage of less than 0.05 Am based on the requirements of IP 44.

If possible, use equipment with IP55 protection, since the cables used for it have three cores and their own grounding with rack insulation temperature conditions from -40 to +130 Celsius.

It is advisable to use a permanent supply line electric current from the panel to all consumers. This is very convenient and possible, since the bathhouse usually does not have large sizes. And this will help eliminate the use of junction boxes.

Wiring elements are secured using various dielectrics, and self-tapping screws, screws or nails are completely excluded.

All information regarding the safety of electrical wiring in the bathhouse is contained in the PUE. Take a little time and study the rules, as they reveal very important points capable of facilitating the process of installing correct electrical wiring. Check out the photo of the wiring in the bathhouse so you know what it looks like in the correct examples.

What to do at the preparatory stage?

First of all, it is created detailed diagram wiring in the bathhouse, taking into account the specifics of the room. To do this, we recommend that you contact a specialist who has experience working with similar buildings, since it is necessary to take into account various nuances, consisting in the total power and number of consumers of the electrical network.

You can use a single-phase option or three-phase if increased power is required. Typically a single-phase line with a power of up to 14 kW is used. And three-phase is required if the power reaches up to 42 kW. Next, the duration of the wire cross-section, the type of RCD, the version, the machines used and other elements included in the network are calculated.

Voltage to the sauna: air or underground?

It is difficult to say which wiring is best to use, since it depends on specific situation, but is more often used air version– it is easier to install and much cheaper. Underground is more expensive and takes much longer, as complex preparatory work will be required.

The selected option is marked on the diagram so that over time you do not forget where the input was and where the wires were led from, at what height and what type of cable was used.

We recommend entrusting various external wiring experienced craftsmen because it's very hard work. But, if you do it yourself, a simplified instruction will help you on how to do wiring using the air method:

The cable must not be lowered below six meters to the roadway;
The distance to the pedestrian part is at least 3.5 meters;
Supports must be placed every 25 meters or less if the situation requires;
The cable entrance to the bathhouse must be at a height of at least 2.75 meters.

To insert it into the room you will need a metal sleeve, but such a cable cannot be used in a bathhouse. Next you will have to use a wire based on a copper rod.

But you can install the cable using the underground method. To do this, you will have to rely on the VBBShV cable, it is also called an armored wire, since it is equipped with a steel type of protection for the polymer sheath. It has four copper cores based on a cross-section of 10 mm2.

How to use this method:

A trench is dug with a depth of at least 0.7 meters. About 10 cm of sand flooring is added to it;
The wires are laid in a wave-like manner. Then they are covered with an additional layer of sand on a 10 cm base;
This is covered with soil, a special mesh is added to block access to the wiring;
A steel bushing is used to enter the bath;
To connect to the distribution panel, you need to free the wire from the protective sheath;
High-quality grounding is created and the installation of a lightning rod will be required.

How to make internal wiring in a bathhouse?

This stage is characterized by simplified installation work. But we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the rules of the PUE and take into account any nuances so that the wiring turns out to be safe and suitable for long-term operation.

How to do it:

The distribution panel must be installed correctly;
All wiring comes from the distribution panel;
Lighting fixtures are connected;
The necessary sockets are installed.
The rest of the part indicated in the wiring diagram is carried out.

It is very important to implement correct installation shield Rely on the following requirements for its safety and performance:

A place is allocated for him next to the exit from the bathhouse. It must have excellent ventilation, easy access and adequate lighting;
The device must have a housing made of reliable material with increased protection from moisture;
The upper part of the distribution panel cannot be closer than 1.4 - 1.8 meters to the floor.

In order to correctly create the wiring from the shield itself, it is also necessary to adhere to safety rules. Let's consider the main points without compliance, the level of security will be questionable:

We recommend using a uniform piece of cable without using junction boxes;
If the structure is made of wood you will need open type cable wiring;
It is forbidden to lean on the sheath of PVC-based wires or metal pipes;
It is allowed to mount cables vertically or horizontally, but they must not be twisted or bent in any direction - they must be laid evenly;
Switches and various sockets are mounted in the vestibule and rest compartment. Their installation in the steam room or washing department is prohibited;
The cores of different wires can be connected by soldering or welding;
No wires are ever laid under the stove, as this is prohibited for safety reasons.

Based on this information, you will be able to do the wiring yourself inside the bathhouse, as well as outside, provided you have advanced skills. But we recommend not to take risks and hire specialists to carry out all stages of creating the wiring, since electricity is no joke.

Photo of the wiring in the bathhouse

Installing electrical wiring in a sauna is a very responsible job, on which the safety of visitors depends. There are many nuances that must be observed, and these include the need to use only heat-resistant cable for the sauna and the ban on placing sockets in the steam room. Next, we will consider all the main features of the selection and installation of electrical appliances in baths and saunas.

Wires for sauna

When choosing wires for a sauna, you need to keep in mind that all rooms in it can be divided into two groups:

Rooms where regular cable can be used.
Rooms where only heat-resistant wire can be used, since the temperature here reaches very high levels, up to 170 degrees in the steam room. In addition, heat-resistant wire should be used when connecting an electric furnace.

Cables for moderate temperature environments

For premises of the first group, the following brands of cable are suitable:

AVVG;

All of the above wires can be used both with open and hidden wiring installation methods. As a rule, baths and saunas are made of wood, so there are some requirements for their insulation - it must be made of PVC, polymer compositions or cross-linked polyethylene.

For example, for indoor lighting it is better to use wires of the following brands:

PPGng-HF 3*1.5;
VVGng-LS 3*1.5;
NYM 3*1.5.

The wires for the socket group must have a cross-section of 2.3 square millimeters.

Cables for pairs

You cannot install a regular cable in a steam bath; it must be heat-resistant. Otherwise, the insulation may deteriorate, which can lead to disastrous consequences.

From the wires Russian production Suitable brands:

RKGM 1*2.5;
PVKV 1*2.5;
PRKS 3*2.5;
PMTK 3*2.5.

Note!
Since the humidity level in baths is high, electrical wiring must provide protective grounding.

Installation of electrical wiring and electrical appliances

Before proceeding with the installation of electrical wiring, it is necessary to approximately calculate the power that the electrical network in the sauna will have to withstand. Accordingly, the required cross-section of the wire depends on this so that it can withstand this current.

If only lighting fixtures will be used in the bathhouse, then the wiring should be designed for a power of about 1-2 kW. If additional accessories are used, the power must be increased.

The calculated power can increase especially significantly if an electric stove is used in the bathhouse. It can reach 10 or even 20 kW.

Note!
When working with electricity, safety instructions must be strictly followed.
In particular, when performing any operations, even when replacing a light bulb, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room.

Wiring

As mentioned above, saunas can be installed both open and in a closed way However, preference is still given to the closed method. According to GOST R 50571.12-96, clause 703.52, wires cannot be laid in metal pipes and corrugated cables, as well as use cables with a metal sheath.

This is due to the fact that the metal is susceptible to corrosion. To install electrical wiring in an open way, it is advisable to use cable ducts or plastic corrugation.

Sockets and switches

First of all, it should be said that installing sockets in steam rooms is strictly prohibited. The same rule applies to distribution boxes and switches. In addition, you cannot install sockets and switches in shower rooms.

In other rooms you can install electrical appliances with your own hands without restrictions.

Lighting

Particular attention must be paid. Regular lamps cannot be used for the same reasons - high temperature and humidity.

The main requirement for a lamp is tightness, since water or steam entering it can lead to a short circuit and fire, in addition, the lamp can fly apart and cause injury to vacationers with glass fragments.

Also, when making lighting, you should take into account that the light in the steam room should not be too bright, so it is better to use matte shades and a 60 W light bulb.

Advice!
It is better in the corners, as these are the coolest areas of the room.

Electrical voltage in the sauna

Bathhouse owners often have a question: what voltage to choose? You don’t have to rack your brains and use normal household voltage, i.e. 220v.

However, for this it is necessary to fulfill certain conditions:

Electrical wiring lines must be protected with differential circuit breakers or RCDs.
The power supply must be made with the TN-C-S grounding system.
The bathhouse must have a SUP potential equalization system.

If for some reason the conditions listed above are not met, then it is necessary to supply the voltage in the bath through a step-down transformer, for example, you can use YaTP-0.25 220/36V

Note!
The step-down transformer must be located outside the sauna room.

Conclusion

Failure to comply with safety requirements when installing wiring and electrical appliances can even cost the lives of those who will be in the bathhouse. Therefore, it is imperative to use the correct sauna cable and install all elements correctly. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to entrust this work to specialists.

For more information on this topic, watch the video in this article.