We do the installation of siding ourselves. Finishing the house with vinyl, metal and basement siding. How to properly attach siding? Siding installation required

In order to quickly and with minimal costs To repair the façade of a building, we choose a material whose installation can be done without the involvement of specialists. This material is siding. Its varieties and how to work with it will be discussed further.

The choice of such material for wall cladding is supported by its positive characteristics.

Environmental safety: siding is chemically resistant and does not emit substances harmful to health and the environment.
Fire safety. Wood siding is treated with fire retardants, vinyl siding does not support combustion.
Resistant to fungi, mold and rot. Antiseptic treatment increases the service life of wood siding.
Siding is not afraid of temperature changes and does not deform, provided correct execution installation
Aesthetic appeal: siding successfully imitates wooden frame. After cladding, the walls become perfectly smooth. You can hide behind the panels electrical cables, water pipes. A wide palette of colors and shades allows you to choose a material that matches other objects located in the garden area.

Manufacturers offer siding various colors and sizes

What is needed to cover walls with siding?

The following types of siding are distinguished:

vinyl;
metal;
fiber cement;
wood.

All of the listed materials are attached to the sheathing, mounted from wooden slats or metal profiles.

Advice: it is better to choose for lathing installation metallic profile. It allows you to create a stronger and more durable frame. This profile is easier to mount to the wall.

If the choice of material for sheathing is wooden slats, it is necessary to exclude wood with the following defects:

cyanosis;
curvature;
traces of damage by insects;
rottenness;
material delamination and cracks.

Before installation wooden slats treated with an antiseptic.

In order to hide all the unevenness of the base, the sheathing is attached at some distance from it, using hangers.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing made of metal profiles

The technology provides the following actions.

Let's prepare the base. It is necessary to dismantle the façade finishing elements that have become unusable: wooden shutters, platbands, falling off plaster and facing tiles. This is necessary so that the sheathing is attached to a solid base.
We apply markings to the base at the places where the vertical sheathing elements are attached.
The hangers are attached to the base using dowel-nails or self-tapping screws (selected depending on the base material).
Installation of vertical guides after marking. Vertical wooden slats or metal profiles are screwed to the hangers with self-tapping screws. We install the lathing with an installation step of 0.5 m.

Scheme of lathing from wooden slats

Guides are installed subject to the rules.

Installation begins from the corner - on both sides at a distance of 50-70 mm. This is necessary for installing the corner profile.
The position of the guides is controlled by a level: it must be strictly vertical. Small (up to 3-5 degrees) deviations to the sides are allowed.
Near the corners of window and doorways, as well as arches and niches, a guide is also installed.
We additionally install guides for gutters.

Fastening the rail to hangers

Here's a video about how walls are insulated.

Installing a starting profile for siding installation

In order to secure the lower panels, we mount jprofiles (starting). They must be positioned strictly horizontally, since the quality of the wall surface depends on this. The work is being carried out in stages.

The starting profile is attached to the vertical guides

We determine the horizontal line from which the installation of panels will begin. We set aside 5 cm from it and put a mark with a marker on the vertical guide.
Using a building level, we make the appropriate marks on all corners of the house.
We stretch the cord between the marks and make marks along the entire perimeter of the house.
On the vertical guides we mark the position of the corner connecting profiles. To do this, temporarily install the profile at the mounting location and outline its boundaries with a marker.
We set aside 6 millimeters from each border of the corner profiles to the sides or cut off the nail strips (they are located at the edges).
Adhering to the designated boundaries, we attach the starting profile to vertical elements frame.

Installation of starting and corner profiles

Attention: to avoid deformation of the profiles as a result of temperature changes, a gap of 10 mm must be left between adjacent elements.

Installation of corner profiles

The work is performed in the following order.

We determine the level of fastening of the roofing sheathing (soffits). This is necessary to indicate the upper limit of the corner profiles.
Stepping down from the 3 mm line marked with a marker, we install the corner profiles and fix them in the upper part to the guides with self-tapping screws. We mount the outer corner profiles so that their lower edges fit into the groove of the j-profiles.
Using a level or plumb line, we adjust the position of the corner profiles: it must be strictly vertical. We screw the screws into the nail strips of the profiles along their entire height. The distance between the screws is about 20 cm (but not more than 40 mm).
We extend the profiles if the height of the corners exceeds 3 m. To do this, we cut the nail strips of the lower profile so that the upper profile overlaps it with an overlap of 25 mm. Trimming is done with metal scissors.

Extension of corner profile

Tip: for economic reasons, the corner profile can be replaced by joining two j-profiles. Loss of tightness is eliminated using a roll insulating material, which is pasted in the corner.

We mount internal corner profiles by analogy with external elements. We screw in the screws in increments of 20 mm and always in the upper and lower parts (at the edges).

How openings are framed with siding

Openings in the same plane as the facade are designed in compliance with the following technology.

Waterproofing material is laid.
We install frames of openings using j-profiles.
We connect profiles.

Design of openings

To ensure that the corners of the openings are designed with high quality, we do the following.

On all sides of the upper profiles we cut off the vertical sections so that horizontal sections remain (the width of the profile).
We bend the horizontal sections down: it will close the hole in the lower profile and prevent the penetration of rain moisture.
We cut off sections of plastic on the side profiles so that they do not interfere with the connection with the platband or window frame.
Connecting profiles.

The connection of profiles with casing (window frame) in the lower part of the opening is carried out in a similar way.

It is allowed to finish the corners of openings and arches using a starting profile

If the openings are recessed into the facade, we use similar techniques when designing them. It is important that the folding bridges block the path of rain moisture to the inside of the cladding elements.

Advice: it is recommended to decorate the slopes of windows, deepened by no more than 200 mm, using window strips.

Siding installation technology

Rules for installing the first siding panel

Using the advice of siding experts, we begin work by covering the wall that is most hidden from view. This is necessary to learn how to fasten the material correctly and avoid further mistakes. We adhere to the following rules.

Installation diagram of the first panel

We insert the siding panel simultaneously into the groove of the corner and starting profiles. It is important that the panel does not rest against the grooves, but is secured with a gap of 6 mm.
The size of the gap may vary depending on the ambient temperature: during summer installation, 6 mm is sufficient; in winter, a distance of at least 9 mm is required.

Continue installation of siding

We install the rest of the siding in the same way as the first panel. In doing so, we comply with the following rules.

Periodically, using a level, we check the position of the panels: it must be strictly horizontal.
We cut off excess areas when facing walls with openings.
We use a punch and hooks to securely connect the panels.
We install the finishing strip at the bottom of the opening, lying in the same plane as the wall.

We install the panels from bottom to top, controlling their horizontalness

How to splice siding panels

In the event that it is necessary to use siding scraps for cladding less critical walls, we build up the panels using any of the methods indicated below.

Options for splicing siding panels

We use an H-profile. We select panels of the same length in such a way as to join them together with a common connecting H-profile. When installing siding panels into the groove, leave a minimum compensation gap of 6 mm.
We overlap. To do this, it is necessary to cut the panel fragments (fastening frames and locks) so that when two elements are joined, an overlap of 25 mm is formed.

It is advisable to join the panels on an inconspicuous area of the wall.

Installation of siding panels under the roof

Installation of siding under the roof is associated with the problem of designing the edge of a panel cut to the width. The top panel is installed using the technology described below.

Installation of the top panel under the roof

We attach the j-profile horizontally to the roofing sheathing with the groove down.
We measure the distance from the key groove of the reinforced front last panel to the top of the j-profile.
Subtract 2 mm from the result obtained.
According to the final size, we cut the top panel from the side of the lock connection.
To ensure that the cut edge of the siding holds well in the groove of the j-profile, we cut it in several places and bend it about 10 mm at a right angle. Such hooks should be every 200 mm along the entire length of the panel.
We install the prepared panel into the lock of the lower element and, slightly bending it, insert it into the upper profile.

Facing the gable with siding

We install the pediment according to the following algorithm.

We attach the starting or j-profile around the perimeter. If the filing is also decorated with siding or vinyl soffits, in the upper part of the gable the starting or j-profile can be replaced with a corner one.
By trimming the left and right edges of the panels at an angle to match the angle roof slopes, we install them using the above technology. We install self-tapping screws in the middle of the slots. We follow the rule regulating the size of compensation gaps.
We fix the top of the last (top) panel using a self-tapping screw directly through the material. We close the screw head plastic plug, selected by color.

Panel installation diagram for finishing the pediment

General rules for installing siding

Regardless of what type of siding and what material it is made of, it is recommended to adhere to certain rules during installation.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the center of the holes of the fastening strips.
Do not tighten the screws tightly so as not to deform the panel and maintain the ability to compensate for thermal expansion.
The panels are mounted from bottom to top.
A compensation gap is left between adjacent elements to prevent temperature deformations.
To fasten wood siding, zinc-coated hardware is used. This is necessary to avoid wood rotting.
Cladding the walls of newly constructed buildings is carried out after they have settled.

Here is a visual demonstration of the technological process - a video on how to install vinyl siding using the advice of a specialist.

Siding is no longer an innovation. We are used to using different types of this material, it is found both on facades and in the interior, in buildings of all purposes.

How to attach siding to create a smooth surface and decorate the facade is a question that concerns many individual developers.

Having heard that siding was being used for the first time in America, a Russian carpenter a couple of centuries ago simply threw up his hands. What siding? Look at the Russian North: half of the churches are sheathed with planks, and residential buildings were also “strewn” - they were sheathed with thin wooden planks from different angles - protection from bad weather, concern for durability. Once again “ours” comes to us from the West under a new name. The historical excursion is over.

What is modern siding, what types exist, how to properly attach siding to the wall, and how to fix it?

Today this type finishing panels are produced from a variety of materials:

Vinyl;
Acrylic;
Fiber cement;
Steel;
Aluminum;
Wood.

Most often used vinyl siding– very light, easy to install, durable, attractive at low price. Negative characteristics include fragility: it is pressed and breaks with an accidental strong impact.

Acrylic siding is stronger than vinyl and more resistant to negative temperatures and to UV radiation.

Fiber cement is noticeably heavier, but its strength is significantly higher than the previous ones. It is durable, resistant to temperature fluctuations, and has many different designs that imitate natural materials.

Galvanized steel sheet With painting according to RAL, two types of metal siding are produced:

Rack siding - durable material, allowing you to diversify color scheme facade and protect the wall from negative natural factors.
Block house - imitating a log wall. This type of finishing positive qualities steel slats, gives the wall the aesthetics of a house made of rounded logs.

Aluminum is much lighter than steel, reduces the load on walls and foundations, is durable, but not resistant to mechanical damage.

Wooden siding is a classic of the genre, but to maintain the finish in working order it requires the renewal of fire protection and antiseptic impregnation at intervals of 3–5 years, depending on the composition used.

Siding is produced with the most different designs surfaces, it can imitate rubble and brickwork, bark beetle plaster, can be plain painted and with a perforated surface. Individual developers in most cases choose vinyl: the siding can be attached to any wall, they are attracted low price material and the possibility of mounting on wooden guides.

Before installation

All types of panels perform two functions:

Aesthetic - they decorate the facade.
Utilitarian - protect the facade from bad weather.

The panels are also mounted according to the same principle: special combs are installed on the guides, and the panels are placed on them. The layout of the panels can be varied: horizontal, vertical, at an angle. What to attach the siding to? Two options: special fasteners(more often used for metal and fiber cement) or wooden beams.

Like any other work in building a house, it requires accuracy, but is quite accessible to a beginner. To obtain a high-quality, smooth cladding surface, it is necessary to follow the rules, if not followed, there will be no one to blame for poor quality work:

Before installation, prepare the wall - clean it from dirt, repair the plaster if necessary, level the surface, dismantle sills and aprons.
When - treat the walls with fungicidal and fire-retardant compounds.
Check the tightness of the connections - window and door filling, input-output communications.
Install the guides strictly vertically, aligning the front using spacers or special proprietary fasteners.
Maintain tolerances on the starting and ending strips within the openings.

IMPORTANT: if necessary, insulate the house and perform cladding possible options actions:

Combining processes, in this case we get a “ventilated facade” system.
With simultaneous insulation, the guide bars of the insulation and cladding system are attached in parallel.
Division of work, installation of siding on an insulated surface.

In the first case, it is necessary to use special fasteners and slab fiber insulation with a laminated surface or geotextiles; the cladding must be mounted at a distance of at least 40 mm from the insulation.

In the second case, it is possible to use polystyrene foam boards and “wet plaster”.

It is preferable to carry out the work in the third way, the cladding is attached to an already leveled surface.

It would be useful to clear the space of vegetation and debris at a distance of up to 50 cm from the wall, and when finishing a house with a height of 2 or more floors, construct scaffolding that can be rented.

Required materials and tools

Having chosen the type of plank, we purchase the materials necessary for the work:

starting, finishing, corner planks;
trims for framing window and door openings;
joint strips masking the vertical seam between the slats;
soffits located under the roof overhang;
timber for sheathing.

Tools required:

Saw (jigsaw or grinder).
Drill, screwdriver.
Hammer.
Roulette, building level.
Pliers.
Step ladder.

Desirable protective equipment: glasses, respirator, gloves. Having prepared the scope of work, we proceed to installation.

Installation

The work begins with lathing from timber with a minimum cross-section of 20 x 40 mm. The timber must be dried to 15-22% humidity, impregnated with fungicide and antipyrine.

When the siding is laid out horizontally, we fasten the timber vertically, and when the slats are laid out vertically - horizontally with a pitch of no more than 600 mm. We check the vertical with a plumb line. Be sure to install bars along the edges of window and door openings.

To fasten timber to wooden walls, we use nails or self-tapping screws; when fastening to an insulated wall, dowels are used with screws with a length exceeding the thickness of the insulation layer plus the thickness of the timber by 50 mm. Vinyl siding must be secured to the timber using galvanized self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT: we take into account seasonal temperature expansion - when fastening, we do not tighten the screws tightly; for additional elements we make a gap of 4-5 mm, in winter - 7-9 mm.

The lower horizontal beam along the perimeter of the building is attached first, the upper cornice is second, then the vertical rows starting from the corner of the house.
The next stage is the installation of the starting J-shaped strip, which we attach 4 cm above the intended level of the cladding, with a gap of 6 mm from the edge of the corner bar and with an overlap of the planks on each other of 12 mm.
Next are the corner and connecting profiles, which we cut from the bottom and top to the middle of the first mounting hole in the plank. We measure and install the joint strips depending on the length of the main slats and the presence of openings in the wall.
We install the second siding panel, fixing it in the recess of the starting strip, inserting it into the groove of the corner and joining profile.
We repeat the operation on all facades.
We install the final profile - soffit.

In the video you will see how sidin is installed in an overlapping manner on a wooden frame.

Properly installed siding will last. long years, decorating the house and delighting the owners. And the question: is siding a forced decision? - will not arise. Siding is a hit of facade design!

Siding is one of the most popular finishing materials modernity. Its popularity determines not only the possibility of using it on any structure as a finishing material, but also easy to install, which anyone can handle.

Quite often this type of finish is used for cladding. wooden house, since he is able to give maximum protection against negative influences environment and climatic factors, and most importantly not to spoil the appearance of the building.

Main stages of work

When starting construction or repair work, first of all, you need to draw up a plan:

Preparation tools and additional elements.
Choice and acquisition of material.
Installation of sheathing.
Installation of insulation.
Siding fastening.
Completion of work.

Purchasing material and preparing tools

Quite a lot is produced a lot of various types siding, they can all be used for decoration, the main differences depend on the material from which it is made. In particular, there are several main materials from which siding is made, these are:

Depending on the selected siding material fastening system is selected, as well as the tools necessary for the job.

Required measuring tool- a long level, to check compliance with the horizon line, cutting tool, hacksaws for metal or wood, depending on the selected siding, industrial knife. Fastening siding with screws or self-tapping screws requires a screwdriver And good screwdrivers, of course the fastening material itself is required.

Installation of sheathing

Siding is attached directly to wooden walls, but they are not always meet the requirements in terms of a smooth surface and minimum local defects, cracks, chips and other damage. In addition, the house has enough thin walls may require an additional layer of thermal insulation, which is well masked by siding panels attached to the sheathing.

Siding sheathing can be made from wooden beam or from metal guides for drywall. As a rule, it is made of wood, since it is easier to work with, and attaching siding to such a base is much easier.

To make lathing you can use timber with a section of 30x40 or 40x50, depending on the insulation that needs to be hidden under the siding. The placement of the main guides can be horizontal or vertical, depending on what siding fastening scheme will be used. So, For horizontal placement of siding panels, vertical lathing is used and vice versa, if the cladding elements are located vertically, then the sheathing is mounted horizontally.

Before you begin installing the sheathing on the wall, its surface needs to be additionally treat with antiseptic compounds that will protect the tree from various negative factors . In addition, it is better to cover large damages and cracks with a special putty to prevent their enlargement. After the necessary repair work, on the wall of the house stuff a vapor barrier material or GEOmembrane, which will allow the walls to breathe, but at the same time protect them from moisture. Vapor barrier material, usually not thick and can be secured using a construction stapler.

Only after installing the vapor barrier can you nail down the slats of the future sheathing. The small surface of the walls allows installation of the sheathing in only one direction; reinforcement of the frame with the help of transverse strips is less often required.

Lathing for exterior siding attaches directly to the wooden walls of the house, using self-tapping screws of sufficient length. It is important to choose the length of the screws so that, having penetrated the thickness of the sheathing, they go deep enough into the surface of the walls, but do not pierce through it.

When installing sheathing strips, it is important keep an eye on them correct position in the plane, for which they use a level or a building level of sufficient length. Even a slight deviation from the specified plane will lead to the installation of siding on wooden house As a result, it will become distorted, which will not only worsen its appearance, but will also significantly complicate the installation process.

Installation of thermal insulation layer

The siding fastening technology provides for the possibility of installing insulation, which is placed between the sheathing strips without interfering with the installation of the siding panels. As insulation you can use almost any modern materials for thermal insulation.

Most often, inexpensive roll or block paper is used. mineral wool, which contains basalt fibers. This material not only allows you to retain heat, but is also an excellent fire-fighting element, since basalt wool withstands prolonged exposure to open fire and is not afraid of high temperatures.

In addition to mineral wool, when installing siding with insulation, they use foaming polyurethane compounds. This solution is applied using a sprayer to the surface between the sheathing guides, and literally before our eyes it begins to foam and harden. The advantage of such insulation is that the liquid solution penetrates into all crevices and is applied evenly without leaving “cold bridges”. The visual principle of operation of foaming thermal insulation is very similar to the use of polyurethane foam.

Thermal insulation width selected according to the dimensions of the guides. For example, when installing siding on a metal profile, there should be a gap of at least 1-2 cm from the insulation to the edge of the profile. This will ensure full microventilation, which will protect the insulation from absorbing condensation moisture formed on back side siding during temperature changes.

Siding installation

The method of attaching siding to a wooden house depends on the type of facing material. Typically, wood and vinyl siding is secured using self-tapping screws or nails that are driven directly into the edge of the material. This method is the simplest, but does not always give good results, since under the influence of variable temperatures and humidity the mounting holes expand and after some time, the individual cladding panels begin to play.

To secure this type of cladding it is better use special clamps metal fastenings , which, using small self-tapping screws, are installed on the sheathing strips. The siding strips are snapped into clamps, which allows them not to be damaged, and most importantly to ensure the reliability of the structure throughout its entire service life.

Installation of siding begins from the bottom if we're talking about about the horizontal arrangement of the slats or from one of the corners, if the slats are located vertically. At the lower level, an initial cover strip is installed with a special groove into which the first siding strip fits.

Fastening system for plastic and metal siding provides for the presence of locks on the slats, which emit a characteristic click, after correct installation panels. The locking mechanism allows you to obtain a monolithic and sealed surface.

The last panel is also inserted into the finishing trim strip, equipped with a locking system. Quite often, the height of the building does not allow the upper level to be accurately set, since total height There are not enough siding panels.

Many people have a reasonable question: how to attach the top edge of the cladding. There are several options; you can either cut one siding panel along its entire length and accordingly adjust it to fit right size, or fix the siding slightly below the top level of the house wall, and cover the resulting gap with a decorative strip.

It is worth noting that no matter what method of fastening the siding, vertical or horizontal, was used, when working with vinyl material, it is necessary to leave a small gap that will compensate for the expansion of the material in the hot season. When the temperature rises, vinyl can expand up to several centimeters over the total wall area, without a gap, the cladding is simply will go in waves or deforms individual elements siding.

Somewhat more difficult to install stone siding on a wooden house, since its installation is allowed just on metal carcass . On the other hand, in such facing material, even at the production stage, fasteners are introduced that ensure ease of installation. Essentially, stone siding is equipped with small seating springs around the perimeter, which are hidden by the subsequent cladding element.

Basically, this material is used only for cladding the basement level of a house, since it bears most of the physical and mechanical loads, and stone or its imitation is made from concrete mixture is the best way to resist them.

An excellent material for covering a house is siding. This fairly inexpensive and long-lasting material can be installed with your own hands even by a person who does not have special construction skills. To do this, just study the siding installation instructions and watch the video material.

Preparing the wall surface

Before starting work on installing the panels, the walls of the sheathed building must be carefully prepared.

First of all you should:

Remove all protruding window sills and ebbs.
Remove all kinds of fastenings, drainpipes, and existing moldings from the walls.
Remove loose plaster from the plastered surface.
On wooden walls nail down any loose boards and replace any rotten ones.

After this, you can begin installing the frame, which can be made of a metal profile or wooden beam.

Profile installation

Experts recommend using durable and strong metal sheathing, which you can attach with your own hands even to an uneven base. Such a frame is installed in half-meter increments and attached to the surface using hangers. This will allow you to secure the structural elements at a level and smooth out differences in the surface.

When choosing a wooden sheathing, you should note for the following points:

the material should not have traces of rot and bluish spots;
it is unacceptable for the beams to be deformed;
the material should not exfoliate.

To ensure that the wooden sheathing lasts a long time, it is impregnated with an antiseptic or fire retardant.

Profiles or bars are installed vertically on the wall of the house. TO wooden surface they are attached using self-tapping screws or nails. If the building is built of bricks or concrete blocks, then holes are drilled in the walls into which dowels are driven.

Rules for fastening the sheathing frame:

The bars are mounted every 40 cm.
Tracks should be secured around all doors and windows, at all corners of the building, and at the bottom and top of siding.
The sheathing must be securely fastened.
The plane formed by the frame must be strictly vertical.
The panel is attached to at least two bars.
The front parts of the bars should not be distorted.

When installing a profile with your own hands, you must use a plumb line and a long level. With their help, the surface must be carefully marked, and the verticality of the plane must be carefully checked. Otherwise, the façade cladding may turn out uneven and wavy.

If the building must be additionally insulated, then the space between the sheathing bars can be fill with special material. It is recommended to use mineral wool in slabs for siding. It is better not to lay loose insulation under the panels, as it often becomes deformed during operation. In order for the surface of the house to be smooth, the thickness of the material must be equal to the thickness of the bars.

Sequence of work for home insulation:

The slabs are fastened between the sheathing bars.
A diffusion wind-hydroprotective layer is installed on top of the insulation, which is secured with perforated membranes.
Bars with a cross section of 4x2 cm are stuffed, with the help of which a gap for ventilation is provided.

Siding installation: video instructions, stages of work

Before starting work, you must be prepared the following tools:

Roulette.
Building level.
Screwdriver.
Hammer or drill.
Electric jigsaw or knife. With their help, the panels will be prepared to size. Experts recommend using a jigsaw, which produces a more beautiful cut.

You should know that if a grinder is used to cut panels, then it can only be used at low speeds. Otherwise, the cut of the vinyl sheet will heat up and melt.

Attaching the starting bar

The first siding panels are attached to the wooden or metal sheathing from below, and then each subsequent one is placed above the previous one. Due to this, the insulation and surfaces have additional protection from precipitation.

The correct installation of the entire cladding depends on the initial strip attached along the entire perimeter of the building, so this type of work should be approached with all responsibility.

The bottom mark is marked (a self-tapping screw is screwed in or a nail is driven in), which should be 50 mm above the bottom point of the sheathing.
Such marks should be made on all walls of the building. In this case, a thread is stretched between the screws, the correct tension of which is checked by the building level.
Along the stretched thread, use chalk to mark a line along which the starting strips will be installed. As a result of the work, the start and finish marks should coincide.
Attach the strip to the corner sheathing and mark the boundaries of its location.
Having retreated from the marked border of 6 mm, you can begin attaching the starting profile. Do not forget that the distance between the slats should be 10-12 mm. This is necessary so that they do not come into contact during temperature changes.
When using brackets as fastening elements, the gap between them and the profile should be 1 mm.

Some experts advise immediately installing starting strips on door and window units. But the need for them does not always arise, since the sizes of windows and doors are often not ideal, and ordinary profiles may ultimately not be at the level of the initial bar.

DIY installation of corner profiles

Row panels will be installed in the corner strips, so they are installed first.

Installation features:

In order for the appearance of the building to look harmonious, the joints at the corners and connectors must be at the same level.

Installing siding around openings

The openings can be located in the same plane with the facade or be recessed into it. That's why installing panels around openings can be performed in two versions.

If the openings with the walls are in the same plane, then waterproofing is first installed, and then 4 platbands are attached to each opening and the panels are connected. To prevent connections from being noticeable, the following rules must be observed:

make bridge cuts on both sides of the top profile with your own hands (they should be equal to its height);
bend the bridges down;
on the side profiles, remove pieces of material that interfere with the connection;
connect the side and top siding panels so that the bent bridges are inside;
connect the lower casing and the side elements, which have bridges cut on their sides.

The notched bridges are lowered down in order to precipitation With top bar went to the bottom.

If the openings are recessed into the facade, then the cuts on the profile should be equal to the depth of the opening. All other work is carried out in the same way as when installing platbands. The bridges must be bent so that the joints of the cladding parts are not visible. In this case, moisture will not get inside.

Installing the first panel

When installing siding with your own hands for the first time, it is recommended to begin installing the first panels on the most inconspicuous side of the house.

Insert the panel into the corner profile and connect it to the starting strip lock, leaving a 6mm gap.
Attach the strip to the sheathing without tension.

Vinyl siding can increase your dimensions to 18 mm. Therefore, when installing it, it is necessary to strictly observe the technological indentations. If the cladding is installed in winter time year, then the gaps should be equal to 9 mm, if in the summer - 6 mm.

Siding extension

Panels are built up overlapping or using an H-profile.

Before fastening the overlap, the locks and fastening frames are trimmed so that the length of the overlap is 25 mm.
When installing the H-profile at the bottom, 6 mm should be deviated from the starting strip, and 3 mm at the top from the soffit. If there are protruding obstacles on the facade, 6 mm should be retreated from them, that is, the H-profile should not touch them. The H-profile is built up with an overlap, in the same way as the corner strips.

Features of installation of the main siding

To securely fasten the panels, a punch (special punch) is needed, with which “hooks” will be made.

From the bottom of the panel falling on the opening, a part equal to the width of the opening plus twice is cut off technological gap at 6 mm.

The strips cut at the ends will be able to move in the lock of the near-opening profile and will provide an indentation of 2 mm.

A finishing profile must be installed in the lower part of the opening, with the help of which the cladding is leveled in the plane.

When installing siding with your own hands, you should remember that every third row of panels must be checked for horizontalness, using a level.

Under the roof J-profile should be installed, work with which is carried out in the following order:

The distance between the lock of the penultimate and the lock of the last panel is measured, from which 2 mm is subtracted by indentation.
The result obtained is marked on the whole bar and the upper part with the lock is cut off.
“Hooks” are created in the upper part of the resulting element, the distance between which should be 20 cm. To do this, cuts are made that are folded to the front side.
The prepared panel is installed in the penultimate strip and is connected upward to the lock of the finishing profile.

The building is finished with siding and sheathing along the perimeter of the pediment. To do this, you can use a starting profile or panels for internal corners.

Installation is similar to installing wall panels:

Since the profile will not be visible under the roof, the remains of the panels can be used to finish the gable.

Installing siding with your own hands will not cause difficulties if you first study video lesson and during work strictly follow the instructions, as well as the advice and recommendations of specialists. As a result of such finishing, you will get a house that will delight the owners with its appearance long years.

The siding material is subject to thermal expansion, so the siding must be secured with gaps. Manufacturers of vinyl siding also take this factor into account; this can be seen in the size and shape of the mounting holes and the design of the locks. The amount of movement depends on the length of the panel.

Siding panels must be secured to the frame using self-tapping screws or nails.

Movement is affected by temperature changes, so the initial installation temperature is important. Freedom of movement of the panels must be ensured, which is constant. The fastener caps must be large, at least 8 mm in diameter, otherwise the panel may fall from the fastener when moving. If the panel is pressed tightly in the lock, it will become deformed and may become warped.

Tools used

To work you will need the following tools:

metal scissors;
hacksaw or Circular Saw(Bulgarian);
screwdriver (preferably cordless);
hammer;
square, m metal, tape measure;
building level;
stairs or scaffolding;
punch;
perforator;
siding removal tool.

Sheathing design and siding fasteners

The siding must be fastened to a sheathing, which can be wooden or metal. You can use a standard metal profile onto which gypsum is attached. Wooden sheathing must be well dried. Warping of the sheathing leads to the fact that the siding locks are pinched in places, and free movement of the panels does not occur. Individual panels may come out of locks, the façade becomes vulnerable to precipitation, and the parallelism of the panels is disrupted. You can fasten the siding with metal screws (in case metal sheathing) or nails or staples to the wood. You can attach the planks with wood screws.

The nail must go into wooden block lathing at least 3.5 cm, stainless steel nails with a diameter of 3 mm are used. The brackets are used so that they enter the wood by 20 mm; the bracket should not interfere with the movement of the panel. Any fastener must be centered in the mounting hole. Correctly fastening the siding is necessary in increments of 40 - 45 cm, which is ensured by the spacing of the sheathing. Vertical siding It is recommended to fasten in increments of 30 cm. You cannot press the cap tightly against the panel; you must leave a gap for freedom of movement of the panel of at least 1-1.5 mm (the same for brackets). Driving fasteners through the panel is prohibited.

If it is necessary to secure the panel, you should additionally punch a corresponding hole with a puncher or expand the existing one. Obliquely driven nails prevent movement. A certain skill will be required to install siding without errors, so novice craftsmen can use screws instead of nails. A screw that is screwed in incorrectly can be unscrewed by one turn of thread and the connection can be loosened. It is better to use special nylon washers when attaching panels, this will ensure the façade's resistance to strong winds. This is especially true for frame house, it will not be blown through. It is customary to observe technological rule- first, the horizontal panel is attached in the middle. Vertical panels are first attached at the top.

Providing temperature gaps

The panels should not rest against the grooves of the receiving profiles, so they are cut taking into account the temperature gap.

Accordingly, the gap of the panel, which is installed from corner to corner, will be double. The same thing - from the corner to the joining strip. The size of the temperature gap must be calculated based on the outside temperature at which installation work is carried out. The length of the panel should be taken into account. Siding is not installed when too low temperatures(below -10°C). In addition, siding becomes brittle in the cold. The approximate elongation of each meter of siding will be 0.5 mm with an increase in temperature by 10 degrees. More accurately, temperature gaps are calculated using tables that can be found from siding suppliers or sellers; this is due to the specifics of a particular material.

Suppliers' instructions indicate temperature gaps for characteristic façade components and the size of the overlap when joining panels. The overlap of the panels should be 25 mm. The seam is not sealed. When overlapping, the nail strips are trimmed so that they do not interfere with the free movement of the panels. The intersection of panels can be done end-to-end. It is necessary to ensure a temperature gap, while the nail strips are trimmed. Panels should not overlap under window openings or above openings. Overlapping overlapping can only be done on two rows of panels in a row. When arranging overlapping panels, the joints should not be noticeable, so you should follow the same rules that apply when gluing wallpaper. Temperature gaps are required when attaching gutters and various accessories to the façade. Special attention is given to the installation of the first panel so that the defect in its installation is not repeated in subsequent rows.

Setting the starting profile and ebb

The starting panel must be installed, as it is responsible for the rigidity of the entire cladding plane. Rigidity should be created by the sheathing, but the sheathing goes in parallel rows, it is not rigid. When connecting the ends of parallel strips with rigid strips, a figure with angles of 90° is created, within which the lining strips work stably. The same role is played by the end metal UD profile used when covering walls with plasterboard. If you do not nail down the end brand strip, you must use other rigid structures, for example, a perforated metal strip or corner. The finishing strip similarly reinforces the last lining strip.

If the lining is not rigid, the façade will not work properly, and there will certainly be warping of the panels, jamming of the locks, and even cracks of the panels. Defects will not only be visible, but also audible. With large moving forces, the facade will produce different unpleasant sounds. To eliminate defects in the facade, you will need a special tool with which you can remove the panel with the defect from the lock and replace it with another one. There are many ways to repair a siding facade, but it is better to avoid violations of fastening technology.

Base covering

If the house has a sinking base or the base and the wall are in the same plane, then installation should begin with a special starting strip. A protruding base requires the installation of a special ebb under the starting plate, along which the water will flow. rainwater. The ebb is an angled vinyl profile.

The ebb is installed starting from the corners. The technology for installing the drip tide involves first processing the corner; for this, a section of approximately half a meter is cut from the drip strip and a corner element of the outer or internal corner. To do this, cut out a corner so that the bar becomes angular. The joint at the corner must be sealed with silicone. The extension of the corner element is small, so the adhesive joint will hold up. The upper edge of the base must first be leveled horizontally. The ebb strips are overlapped. Under the ebb, a rigid strip is installed along the entire length of the base, from corner to corner.

Next, the starting panel is mounted. It will be completely hidden by the subsequent plank. The branded starting panel is connected to the starting panel into a lock. Before fixing the starting profile, markings are made of the corner (receiving) profiles of the facade and J profiles, if they are on the facade (they can be used when forming an internal corner). The starting bar is installed with a temperature gap from the corresponding markings. If there is a J-profile on the facade, then 46 mm must be retreated from the corner. The upper edge of the panel is aligned with the horizontal line “beaten” on the facade. With a sinking or “flat” base, you can lower the bar slightly onto the base and cover the base a couple of centimeters. Each fixed panel needs to be moved to make sure it moves freely.

Fastening of facade parts

Special corner panels are used to decorate the corners. The corner panels must be fastened so that they hang on the fasteners. The first nail is driven into the topmost hole, close to its top edge. The rest of the fasteners are installed in the centers of the holes, the fastener spacing is 20-25 mm. If it is necessary to connect corner panels, they are overlapped so that water does not get into the joint. Corner panels are installed before installing the siding panels, immediately after installing the starting profile.

For lining the roof overhangs and gables, soffits are used, which ventilate the roof well, as they are perforated. Soffits are installed before the last row of siding is installed. For roof overhangs of more than 60 cm, overhang sheathing is required, and the soffits are attached to it. For smaller overhangs, frame strips are needed. The soffits are attached at 30 cm intervals. A J profile is used, which is attached to the bottom of the frame. Various options Overhang designs can be found in the instructions of siding suppliers.

Door edging and window openings you need to do it immediately after installing the corners. When finishing windows, special profiles are used: near-window strip, trim strip and hinged strip (ebb). The material used for window frames varies depending on the depth of the windows and doors in the openings. A near-window strip is supplied especially for the Russian market, which covers the slopes. According to installation standards plastic windows frames are mounted at a depth of one third of the wall thickness. If, contrary to custom, the slopes are shallow, then an angular profile is used. The near-window strip is used for slope depths up to 170 cm. When using the near-window strip, a finishing strip must be installed. If the slopes are deep and the near-window profile does not cover them, then installation of a flashing (hanging strip) is required.

Deep slopes are made as ordinary walls, a starting profile and a regular ordinary board are used. Instead of a regular board, you can install insulated sandwich panels. Slopes can be secured not only using finishing profiles, various profiles with locks, but also on polyurethane foam and glue. The window trim must be installed on the foam. If panels are placed on the foam, they are secured with spacers before the foam hardens. With any method of framing windows, it is assumed that a receiving J-profile is used, into which horizontal panels are inserted; it will be used as a platband.