Why do knitted wool products keep us warm in winter?
And because wool has the highest heat-protective properties.
This magical effect occurs due to the composition of the wool fiber, which binds heat and retains it between the fibers.
There is no other similar fiber in nature.
Wool
Wool is the hair of animals that can be processed into yarn or felt.Wool obtained from animals is named after the type of animal.
For example: goat hair, camel hair, etc.
Wool bulk (95-97%) for wool processing enterprises sheep provide.
Based on the composition of the fibers, wool is classified into homogeneous wool (fine, semi-fine, semi-coarse and coarse)
and heterogeneous (semi-rough and coarse).
The uniformity of the wool is determined by its fineness, crimp and length. And it is characterized by the content of fluff, transitional hair, awn and dead hair.
Based on fineness (thickness), wool is divided into four groups.
Thin: thin down fibers with uniform crimp - high quality.
Fine wool consists of fine fluff fibers (from 14 to 25 microns) with uniform fine crimp
30-80 mm long and characterized by properties inherent in down fibers.
It is used to produce high-quality knitted products and fabrics.
Semi-thin:
coarse fluff or transitional hair. Or a mixture of them.
Semi-fine wool is characterized by a fineness of 25 to 34 microns and a length of 40-150 mm.
It consists of coarse fluff, transitional hair, or a mixture of both;
used for the production of the finest wool knitted products and
thin suiting and dress fabrics.
Semi-rough:
fluff, transitional hair and some fine hair are of lesser quality.
Semi-coarse wool has a fineness of 34 to 40 microns and a length of 50-200 mm.
It consists of fluff, transitional hair and small quantity thin spine,
used to produce lower quality knitted products and fabrics.
Rough:
fluff, transitional hair, awn and dead hair - low quality.
Coarse wool is characterized by a fineness of 40 to 67 microns and a length of 10-250 mm.
It consists of fluff, transitional hair, awn and dead hair.
This is the lowest quality wool, used primarily for making
coarse cloth fabrics.
Wool fiber consists of three layers (visible under a microscope):
Scaly (cuticle) - the outer layer, consists of individual scales, protects the hair body from destruction. The type of flakes and their location determines the degree of gloss of the fiber and its ability to felt (roll, fall off).
The scaly layer of the fiber consists of the thinnest horn-like plates (scales) that form the outer cover of the fiber.
The scaly layer is characterized by a large mechanical strength and chemical resistance, protects the inner layers of the fiber from atmospheric and mechanical influences. It tells the wool fibers a number valuable properties. Thus, the scales increase the tenacity of the fibers, resulting in a stronger yarn.
The felting properties of wool fibers are also determined by the presence of a scaly layer.
There is a significant amount of air between the scales, so wool fibers are less thermally conductive.
The size, shape and nature of the relative arrangement of the scales depend on the type of wool (fine and coarse) and affect many technological and operational properties of the fiber.
Cortical - the main layer forms the body of the hair and determines its quality.
The cortical layer is located directly under the scaly layer, forms the main body and determines the basic properties of the fiber. Cells of the cortical layer have numerous boundaries, which corresponds to the idea of a cell as a three-dimensional polyhedron.
Medullary - located in the center of the fiber, consists of cells filled with air.
The core layer is located in the center of the fiber and consists of cells various shapes, between which there is air. The presence of a core layer is a sign of coarse fiber with reduced tensile strength. The dimensions of the core layer are not the same for different fibers and vary widely.
Depending on the ratio of individual layers, wool fibers are divided into 4 types:
Pooh - a very thin, soft, crimped fiber with no core layer.
Down - the thinnest (15-30 microns), soft and durable round-shaped fibers
V cross section, with fine tortuosity, consist of two layers:
scaly and crusty. The fluff scales are ring-shaped; they cover the entire circumference of the fiber, stacking one on top of the other, creating a rough surface. Thanks to this, the fluff has a soft shine and the best rollability.
Ost - thick, stiff fiber with a significant core layer.
The spine is thick (50-90 microns), almost straight, coarse fibers with an irregular oval shape in cross section, consisting of three layers: squamous, cortical and medullary.
The scales of the awn are non-ring-shaped and fit most tightly to the cortex layer, causing a strong shine and less rolliness. The core layer of the spine occupies from 1/3 to 2/3 of the fiber thickness.
As a result, the spine is less durable and flexible, and more rigid.
Transitional hair - thicker and tougher than down. The medullary layer occurs in places.
Transitional hair in its structure occupies an intermediate place between down and awn.
Transitional hair, like the awn, consists of three layers, but its core layer is much narrower and discontinuous.
According to technical indicators, transitional hair is more suitable for down than for awn.
Dead hair - the thickest, coarsest, brittle and short fiber, devoid of natural color and shine. The core layer of dead hair occupies 90-95% of its thickness.
As a result, dead hair has low strength, is quickly destroyed by friction, is not colored and does not have the ability to fall off.
Therefore, dead hair is considered a defective fiber and is removed from the wool mass.
Chemical composition: natural protein keratin.
By chemical composition Wool fiber refers to protein compounds containing mainly keratin, which includes residues of various amino acids.
The elemental composition of keratin is characterized by the presence of five elements: carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur.
Effect of chemical reagents on fibers:
Destroyed by strong hot sulfuric acid; other acids have no effect. Dissolves in weak alkali solutions. When boiled, wool dissolves in a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide. Under the influence of dilute acids (up to 10%), the strength of wool increases slightly. Under the influence of concentrated nitric acid The wool turns yellow and becomes charred under the influence of concentrated sulfuric acid. Insoluble in phenol and acetone.Properties of wool
Heat resistance – (the ability to retain heat) is one of the most famous and beloved properties of wool.
Wool has the highest heat-protective properties. This magical effect occurs, thanks to the composition of its fiber, it binds heat and retains it between the fibers. There is no other similar fiber in nature.
The highest hygroscopicity is 18-25%. Maximum 30%. Absorbs moisture from environment, but unlike other fibers it slowly absorbs and releases moisture, remaining dry to the touch. It swells greatly in water. Moistened fiber in a stretched state can be fixed by drying; when re-moistened, the length of the fiber is restored again. This property of wool is taken into account during the wet-heat treatment of products for drying and stretching their individual parts.
Good light fastness.
Good stretchability.
Good elasticity - wrinkle resistance.
Good colorability with acid dyes. Wool is relatively resistant to acids.
Natural color: white, gray, black, red.
Feltability is the ability of wool to form a felt-like covering during the felling process. Thin, elastic, highly crimped wool has the greatest ability to felt. Cloth, drape, felt, felt.
Wool fibers repel dirt and are easy to clean.
Alkaline treatments are not available!!! Alkali, even in a weak solution, spoils wool.
Other properties.
Eh, we're not the only ones who like wool. The moth butterfly also loves her. And microbes love her too.
Do not store wool in damp or very damp place, microbes cause mold and rotting of wool.
Drying temperature too high and prolonged exposure sun rays reduce wool strength.
Well, excuse me. Well, I just can’t help but write about the well-known and very beloved Orenburg goat.
When I think about the fact that this breed could disappear, tears immediately come to my eyes.
Orenburg goat- bred in the 19th century. as a result of selecting the best goat breeds in order to obtain long, soft, fine fluff. Associated with it is a traditional and well-known folk craft throughout Russia and beyond its borders - production
Reading time: 4 minutes
Wool is perhaps the oldest fiber known to people. It was one of the first fibers to be spun into yarn and woven into fabric. Wool production dates back more than 10,000 years.
Wool is obtained from alpacas, camels, goats, but it is mainly sheep. The world's wool production is mainly concentrated in Australia. Eastern Europe, New Zealand and China. The American wool industry began in settlements in Massachusetts in 1630, where by law everyone household production of woolen cloth was required.
How is wool produced? First the sheep must grow up!
Harvesting
Then they need a haircut. A shearer can remove wool from 200 sheep in a day. Sheep can produce up to 7 kg of wool. A ram can produce 9 kg of wool. The shorn wool is called raw wool, and since sheep do not shower, it must be cleaned first.
The wool is then combed, which means brushing to straighten the fibers. This used to be done by hand, but nowadays a carding machine passes the wool through a series of rollers covered with wire bristles. The cardboard fibers are neatly twisted into strands called rovings. The rovings are spun into yarn, which is then woven into cloth. In the past, spinning was usually a task unmarried women— they became spinners.
Fleece is wool taken from one animal during shearing. But not all wool is created equal—even when it comes from the same animal. High quality wool is obtained from the sides, shoulders and back. The wool that grows at the bottom of the legs has the lowest quality.
Wool production: sorting
wool sorting
Wool is graded by fineness and length. The length on an animal varies from place to place, but it generally varies among sheep breeds. The Australian has a length of 7-12 cm. Breeds living in Texas and California produce fibers 6 cm long. Wool from other breeds and other animals can reach 40 cm.
Properties and uses
This illustration of wool threads under a microscope shows us why wool is special. The surface is a series of overlapping protein scales. On an animal, this allows foreign substances to escape from the comb. In a strand of yarn, it allows the fibers to cling to each other. This is the key to the power of wool.
The surface of the wool repels water. Because moisture does not remain on the surface, wool fabrics tend to feel dry and comfortable even in wet weather. The inner core absorbs moisture - so much so that wool can absorb almost twice its weight in water and still feel quite dry. This absorbency also gives wool a natural resistance to wrinkles. Absorbed moisture also traps static electricity. And because of its internal moisture, wool is naturally fire resistant.
Characteristics of wool fibers and products
- Protein fiber.
- Flame resistant (wool usually extinguishes when the flame source is removed).
- Weaker than cotton or linen, especially when wet.
- Fibers range from 3 to 40 cm.
- Most prized for its textured appearance and warmth.
- Must be washed by soft or dry cleaning.
- May be damaged by chlorine bleach.
- Moths and carpet beetles eat wool.
- The curls return to shape after shredding.
- Excellent insulator (80% air).
- Absorbs moisture that is held within the fiber (wool will still be dry even on a damp day).
- Easily accepts dyes.
- The quality of wool varies depending on the breed of sheep.
- Does not attract dirt or static electricity.
- Labeling of wool products. The law allows the word "wool" to be used for fibers from sheep, or camel, alpaca, llama and vicuña.
Review
- Wool is a protein fiber that comes from a variety of animals.
- The wool is sheared by hand, but the making of woolen fabric is done by machine.
- Wool is ideal for warm clothing such as sweaters.
The extraction and production of wool is one of the most ancient types of fiber work imaginable. The development of technologies and methods for producing woolen fabric goes back many centuries. Nowadays, wool dressing consists of a large number of complex stages, some of which are completely manual, and some are automated. In any case, wool production technologies do not stand still and are constantly evolving.
The production of wool and products from it is a set of interrelated actions, as well as methods for obtaining products. It is a mistaken opinion that the technology includes only the direct methods of making yarn or fabric sheets, from which things are subsequently sewn or knitted. In fact, technology includes everything production stage from raising an animal, feeding it and caring for it, breeding, as well as the collection of wool itself and subsequently the direct processing of the material.
The production chain of woolen garments
So, the entire process of making a wool product includes seven interconnected stages. If you skip any of them, the chain will be broken, which means that the quality of the threads and products as a whole will suffer.
Raising Animals
The primary and fundamental stage is the breeding and raising of animals. Wool is the hair covering of a number of mammals. It consists of thick, guard hairs, which determine the length and shape of the entire coat, as well as thin, fluffy and curly hairs (they form the undercoat). Wool is collected from many species of mammals, including sheep, goats, camels, alpacas and llamas, and rabbits. The process of raising animals includes the following important components:
Harvesting
Mammal fur is collected in two different ways:
- a haircut;
- by combing (it is used, for example, when collecting the fur of an Angora rabbit).
Of course, the first method is the most common and convenient for both humans and animals. Hair shearing occurs at certain times of the year. For example, Sheep must be sheared in the spring, but some breeds also need additional, autumn shearing. Young animals born in winter are usually cut a little later - in June or July, when the hairline grows longer.
The haircut is performed by specially trained people so as not to injure the animal. For this, well-sharpened and fairly large scissors are used. IN modern conditions haircuts are often carried out using a special clipper.
Important! A trained specialist performs his work professionally. He can shear about 200 heads of sheep per day. Interestingly, one sheep produces about 7 kg of wool, and a large ram produces about 9 kg.
Sorting
The harvested crop is subject to mandatory sorting. The main criteria are length and fineness (essentially, the thickness of the hair). The length of the coat depends on the type of animal: in some breeds it can vary significantly. For example, the Merino breed has a hair length of approximately 7–12 cm, and in coarse-haired representatives the length reaches even 30–40 cm. It becomes clear why they must be cut and how difficult it is for them to carry such a burden.
The wool sheared from one sheep is called fleece. The fur of even one individual is quite heterogeneous in composition. On various parts The body cover has an unequal texture. The best hair grows on the sides, back and shoulder area. Those hairs that grow on the legs usually do not have too much good quality. That is why it is subject to mandatory sorting both by length and fineness, and by its crimp.. Materials of different coarseness are subsequently used to make different fabrics. Felt is usually made from coarse wool, Construction Materials, and from the softer ones - things for personal use, clothing and interior items.
Purification of raw materials
Only wool cut from an animal is called raw, that is, material that has not yet been subjected to any processing or cleaning. Outwardly, it looks like something very shaggy and a little sloppy. But all this can be fixed. For the subsequent creation of yarn, this stage is mandatory. It consists of:
- washing wool. This is done at a temperature of about 40–50 degrees Celsius. IN industrial scale washing is carried out using special equipment that performs all stages, including thorough washing and squeezing of the material;
- garbage collection. Raw materials often contain various particles that are completely unnecessary to create high-quality yarn. These can be thorns, dry grass that gets stuck in the wool when sheep graze in the fields. In some modern farms Sheep are protected from dirt getting into their wool. For example, they can be covered with special mesh capes during grazing.
Combing
After cleaning the raw material, the combing stage begins, so that the wool turns from a tortuous and shaggy substance into fairly even strands. Previously, this entire process was done manually. Now, in the age of new technologies, carding machines do all the main work. These devices are equipped with special rollers that can pass wool through them. They are covered with wire bristles, thanks to which all tangled hairs are straightened, forming even, separated fibers.
Important! Some machines simultaneously perform not only combing, but also cleaning of the material. This saves a lot of time for the manufacturer because the 2 steps are combined into one.
The resulting cardboard fibers are carefully twisted into strands called rovings. This completes all the preliminary steps before actually spinning the yarn.
Spinning
In earlier times, spinning was the main occupation unmarried girls. We all remember the spinning loom from the fairy tale “Sleeping Beauty”. It was on such a tool that women made yarn with their own hands. Now the whole process has been significantly mechanized and simplified. A loom in a factory creates wool threads hundreds of times faster than a hundred craftswomen would do it by hand.
Sometimes wool is also run through a blending machine before spinning.. This is done when the material is made with a partial wool content. This is where wool is mixed with synthetic fibers such as acrylic.
The spinning process itself is called knotting. To make it easier to understand its essence, you can consider it using the example of hand spinning. To do this you need:
- separate a small piece of material and stretch it;
- felt a little;
- then use twisting movements to form a thread. So that it does not break off and is long, it is important to simply add more and more new pieces of wool.
On factory equipment, this process takes place in exactly the same way, but by the hands of a machine, not a person. The master only needs to check the correctness of the work, as well as lay the raw materials on time.
Making fabric or yarn
From the resulting woolen threads, two types of material can be obtained: either yarn for knitting or fabric. The latter are made on a loom. The higher the quality of the wool and the better cleaning and processing it has undergone, the higher the quality of the finished fabric. At this stage, they can be produced as completely natural fabrics (for example, containing only cotton and wool). Most modern fabrics are made using synthetic threads. There is nothing wrong with this, because all-woolen fabric also has some disadvantages, in particular, it itches quite a lot.
If wool is used to make yarn, then the threads can be left either of a derivative thickness, or folded several times and get thick yarn.
Sewing or knitting
Final stage- direct production of woolen items. The manufacturing method will depend on the finished material:
Important! The last stage of wool production can be completely different. For this purpose even spinning is skipped. We're talking about felting- the same method of making warm felt boots, house slippers, and hats for the bath. This method involves keeping cleaned wool in almost boiling water, due to which it becomes coarser and stops being so fluffy. This material makes excellent boots or children's toys that will delight you for a long time.
Perfection modern technologies helps a person in intensive use of time-tested experience. The use of natural materials is still in demand, despite discoveries in the production of artificial fibers.
The mechanization of wool processing and fabric production has not yet crossed the usual boundaries. Herds of animals continue to graze, serving as a source of raw materials for woolen fabrics, and the hands of shearers, armed with improved clippers, continue to remove the fleece from them.
and clothes made from it: how it all began
The first “costumes” made of wool were primitive and consisted of capes, bandages and leg wraps made from poorly dressed skins. Over time, the techniques of dressing leather with fur became more and more skillful and sophisticated, turning the skins into a kind of soft woven fabric.
Before the era of spinning, sheared wool was felted or felted (hence the word “felt”) - this technology is still used in the production of the famous Russian felt boots or, as they are also called, felted products. The products turned out to be rough, but warm.
The “tendency” of wool fibers to felting and shrinkage must be remembered when washing fabric. Wool does not like long soaking, high temperatures, contrast modes, alkaline environments and twisting.
The most important event for a person seeking salvation from the cold was the invention of the loom. The animals' fur was combed or collected after shedding, shaved with sharply sharpened knives, and later trimmed with scissors. Tangled tufts of wool were washed, cleared of debris, combed with special combs, dividing into individual strands.
Using a spinning wheel, a thread was twisted from the fibers onto a spindle, more or less thin, depending on the quality of the wool. From the resulting yarn, strips of fabric were collected using a loom, from which clothing could be made. The color of the finished material corresponded to the original raw material; over time, a variety of organic, mineral and vegetable dyes began to be used.
Wool and modernity
The described algorithm of actions has remained largely unchanged to this day. Carding machines, detergents, and weaving machines have become more advanced; breeds of sheep, goats and other animals have been bred through selection, producing remarkably beautiful, soft and fine wool.
Sheared fleece is used to make environmentally friendly fabrics for clothing in a wide range of densities and thicknesses. Adding synthetic fibers to wool makes the material wrinkle-resistant, more durable, and wear-resistant.
Finding out if a fabric is made of wool is easy. By cutting off a small piece and setting it on fire, you will smell the burnt feather. The fibers of the fabric are sintered, forming an easily rubbed black lump.
Weaving machines are programmed to create complex weaves of threads and a variety of patterns and designs on the fabric; dyed fabrics do not change color after many washes. Knitting from wool yarn is one of the world's favorite crafts, and knitted wool products are a must-have item in every wardrobe.
With the development of technology, it has become difficult to determine whether the fabric in front of us is natural or not. Now, for example, it is difficult to find products from natural wool, in which there would be no other fibers.
Many people only know about wool that it is a fabric of natural origin that retains heat well. Basically, the wool of sheep, camels and goats is used for its production.
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Properties of wool
Almost all wool is resistant to stains and does not wrinkle. Various odors, such as smoke, food or sweat, are well evaporated from this fabric. It does not absorb moisture, but absorbs water in the form of steam. It is because of this that the products dry slowly. Wool fabric It retains heat well, and during wear it falls off, and therefore becomes even warmer, as well as windproof.
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Wool can be used to sew suits, sweaters, dresses, and coats. Depending on the product for which the material is planned to be used, wool fibers are divided into:
- Worsted or combed fabrics. They have smooth surface and a pronounced weave pattern. This type of wool is light and thin, so it is rarely added to coats. The fabric is mainly used for sewing blouses or dresses.
- Fine cloth fabrics. Wool made using this method is soft and porous and has high heat-protective properties.
- Rough cloth fabrics. Due to the fact that this species is tough and prickly, it is used in the production of uniforms and men's coats.
- Pure wool fabrics. They have good heat protection, elasticity, and practically do not wrinkle. But despite all the positive characteristics, this fabric is susceptible to abrasion and is prone to shrinkage of the product.
- Wool blend fabrics. Various synthetic fibers are most often added to this type, but even this does not save the fabric from rapid contamination and reduced hygroscopicity.
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History of origin
Archaeologists claim that wool was used 1500 BC. It was then that people were able to domesticate goats and sheep and use their hair to make woolen fabric. Wool was especially popular in Ancient Rome.
In the middle of the century, wool began to be traded, and in the 13th century, the economy of a country such as Italy began to depend on its production. A little later, England began to produce woolen fabric, where profits from the production and sale of wool became a significant part of the budget. The first English factory was located in Winchester. For illegal wool production, many were punished by having their hands cut off.
In 1966, wool production was curtailed due to low demand for the fabric. But ten years later, due to the invention of technology that made it possible to wash woolen products, interest in fabric returned.
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Wool production
Today there are several major wool producers in the world, these include:
- South Africa;
- Argentina;
- Australia;
- China.
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Wool production technology includes four stages. First shearing, then ranking and sorting, the next step is creating yarn, final stage The fabric is made directly.
Sheep are sheared once a year, at the beginning of spring or summer. The best wool is considered to be the one that is cut from the sides and shoulders. Only that which is sheared from a healthy and living animal can be called sheared wool. This type is marked with a “wool label” established by the International Wool Commission.
The sorting and ranking stage consists of removing dirty, damaged and low-grade wool, as well as selecting raw materials based on fiber quality.
The wool is then processed with a special detergent. This is done to remove yellowness and impurities from dirt and sand. When the fibers dry, they are combed out with rollers that have fine teeth. The fibers unraveled by the teeth are aligned into a sheet called a net. Later this network is knitted into ropes, they are called silver.
Wool dyeing can be done at any of the manufacturing stages; also, at any of the stages, the fibers can be subjected to various influences that will give them required type and structure.
In order to give wool fibers strength and density, they undergo a process of felling. It involves soaking the wool in water and then running it through rollers.
How is wool produced?
Features of use
IN modern world wool is used to make such products as:
- Sweaters
- Dresses
- Coat
- Suits
- Jackets
- Trousers
- Boot linings
- Scarves, hats, mittens
- Carpets and blankets
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Items made of woolen fabric must be washed with products intended for wool, and only by hand. The temperature should not exceed 30 degrees, and when washing woolen items should not be twisted or rubbed.
Woolen items should be dried on a flat surface away from radiators and direct sunlight. Items must be ironed in the wool mode or with the dampening function.
If, during wear, some areas of clothing that are subject to friction or pressure become shiny, then the defect can be eliminated by steaming. After this, the product can be cleaned with a stiff brush table salt or river sand.
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Recently, there are fewer and fewer real wool products on the markets, because it is cheaper for manufacturers to add additional synthetic materials. But this does not mean that woolen items have lost their relevance. In winter, they are indispensable due to their versatility, breathability, elasticity and wear resistance.
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And of course you recognized this man in the sweater :)
