What you need for caulking. Caulking a wooden house - methods and stages. Methods and technology

Wooden houses have many advantages, but all wooden buildings dry out and become deformed over time. Shrinkage is given not only log cabins, but also houses made of profiled timber. As a result, cracks and gaps form between wooden elements (beams or logs), through which the cold penetrates. The caulking of a log house allows you to make your home warm and cozy and prevent loss of precious heat. This is a rather specific and complex job, which involves filling the resulting space with special insulating materials. How is caulk made? wooden house when it is necessary to do it, what types of caulking exist, we’ll talk about this in the article.

The first work that is performed immediately after construction is caulking; and sanding the logs, impregnating the wood with antiseptics, and painting the log house are carried out only after caulking. Our ancestors knew what caulk was and why it was needed, because in Russia houses were traditionally built of wood. But even today caulking has not lost its importance. This procedure solves the following problems:

1. When wood dries, cracks and gaps appear in the walls, through which heat escapes, and instead moisture and dampness enter the house. This can cause the development of putrefactive processes in the tree. By caulking you can achieve complete sealing of joints, insulate a wooden structure and prevent rotting.
2. Shrinkage of a wooden house does not always occur evenly. Often one wall shrinks more than the other, which leads to a skew of the entire structure. Caulking the walls allows you to level the structure and give the house the correct shape.
3. Caulked log houses made of logs and gun carriages are much more durable, since special impregnated materials that do not allow water to pass through are used to seal the seams, which significantly extends the service life of the wood.

Caulking is necessary not only for newly built houses; old wooden buildings also need insulation. Caulking an old log house allows you to seal the cracks that have formed in the logs over time, improve the thermal insulation qualities of the house, and renew the wooden structure.

Some people mistakenly believe that caulking is only necessary in a log house, which is subject to severe shrinkage and deformation, and that it is not necessary to caulk a house made of timber, since the material has already been pre-treated. However, this is not the case; caulking of profiled timber is necessary, since it also shrinks, and as a result, cracks and gaps appear that accumulate moisture, which can provoke the formation of mold and mildew.

Many people are concerned about the question: is it necessary to caulk a house made of timber if it will be insulated? Professional craftsmen give a clear answer: of course it is necessary. When the profile beam dries, deformation occurs, resulting in the formation of large cracks, which, even with external insulation, will let in cold air from the street. Caulk timber house makes it invulnerable to wind and cold.

The technology for caulking a log house was developed a long time ago, and today it has remained virtually unchanged. Of course, modern industry has made some adjustments to the tools, devices and materials used, but the basic rules for caulking a log house remain the same.

There are two main caulking techniques: stretched and set. In the first method, the insulation is stretched along the log and one end is inserted into the gap using a special tool. Then a roller is formed from the free end of the material, which is used to fill the grooves of the log house. To caulk cracks using the second method, the insulation is wound into a skein, and loops are made from it to clog the holes. This method is best used when there are large gaps between the logs.

The weakest points in a log house in terms of heat loss are the corners. Through them, wind and cold air penetrate into the house. Therefore, the masters give them Special attention. Caulking of log house corners is done different ways depending on the house cutting method.

The greatest difficulty is caused by caulking the corners of the log house into a bowl. There are some nuances here. If the house was built from timber, caulking corner connections made with the same material that was put into the crowns, so that there are no discrepancies in thickness. A house made of rounded logs or carriages is best insulated with jute or linen rope.

How to caulk a log house? This question is far from idle, since the durability and effectiveness of caulking largely depends on the selected material, which must have certain properties. Since ancient times, moss was used to insulate wooden structures. It is still used today for these purposes, but much less frequently, since it is a fairly expensive material. IN modern construction Most often, caulking of a log house is done with tow, jute or flax. Each material has its own characteristics.

Tow is a coarse flax fiber, but you need to take into account that birds love it very much, so after caulking, the tow will have to be treated against birds. Usually it is treated with a special impregnation, for example, drying oil, which does not change the color of the wood; it can also be painted oil paint. The painted surface provides reliable protection against insects. Another option is to fasten finishing materials on top of the tow: decorative rope or rope.

Jute is made from hemp, the material has good hygroscopicity, and even with very high humidity it will remain almost dry. Therefore, jute is usually used to caulk a bathhouse.

Linen batting is a durable material made from fibers and waste from linen production. It is a wide tape, rolled into rolls in a factory manner. Linen wool has excellent thermal insulation properties, absorbs moisture well and quickly evaporates moisture.

The process of shrinking a wooden house lasts several years, so caulking is carried out in several stages. Rough primary caulking is done immediately after cutting the log house. The building is insulated on both sides (outside and inside) with inter-crown insulation, which is not laid very tightly the first time. First, the external joints are sealed, and only after that it is necessary to caulk the house from the inside. Required condition– caulking is done around the perimeter of the entire house. You cannot caulk one wall and then proceed to the second, third, etc. Caulking raises the original height of the house by about 5-10 cm, so the structure may become distorted.

Repeated caulking is carried out approximately a year and a half after completion of construction. By this time, the structure has almost settled down, so the secondary finishing caulking is done very tightly so that there are no gaps or cracks in the seams between the logs. Last time caulking is carried out five to six years after construction, when the house has completed its final shrinkage.

In addition to the usual one, there is also decorative caulk, which is performed for purely aesthetic purposes along already caulked seams. Craftsmen finish the log house with rope or decorative rope.

What is the difficulty of self-caulking?

Despite its apparent simplicity, caulking is a job that requires experience and special knowledge. There are many nuances in caulking that are known only to professional caulkers. The work is performed exclusively manual method, therefore, the quality of caulking depends entirely on the skill and professionalism of the performer.

Of course you can buy necessary materials and caulk the house yourself, but lack of experience will certainly affect the final result. Many people wonder: can caulk fall out after heating a log house or carriage? It depends on how well the work is done. If during caulking the technology is violated and the insulation is not sufficiently secured, then it is quite possible that after heating it will fall out.

Birds will quickly carry the caulking done ineptly with tow into their nests. Professional craftsmen insert the material in such a way that birds cannot reach it and pull it out. If the sequence of work is violated, improper installation interventional material, the use of insulation of different thicknesses, deformation of the structure is possible. In this case, you will have to caulk the house again. As for labor costs, caulking is not an easy job; an amateur will have to put in a lot of effort and spend quite a lot of time to caulk his house.

Professional caulking from the company “Master Srubov”

Insulating a log house and giving it a unique flavor is a job that will be performed at a high quality level by specialists from our company. The craftsmen have many years of experience and the necessary skills, have specialized education and numerous reviews from grateful clients who appreciate the golden hands of professional caulkers.

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In our work we follow the traditions of old masters and also use modern instruments and equipment, we use proven certified materials, which together allows us to maintain a high quality bar. We will carry out caulking of any complexity and volume at an affordable cost. To contact us, visit the page where you will find our details.

Caulking of a log house is the filling of cracks between the logs of the crowns and in the notches of the corners during the construction of the building and after its complete shrinkage. Proper implementation of such work allows you to avoid deformation of the walls of the house, insulate it and protect the living space from external negative influences(wind, precipitation, low temperatures etc.).

Caulking at home can be done using various materials and working tools. However, such work should only be carried out by experienced professionals. Qualified craftsmen will be able not only to caulk a log house at a price that is most affordable for everyone, but also to ensure the maximum quality of this work.

When is a log house caulked?

Caulking timber is a mandatory process before any finishing works. The work is carried out in two stages. First, filling the grooves between the logs must be done directly when assembling the walls. Next, the caulking of the house must be done after the log house has completely shrunk. As a rule, it takes one to two years for walls to completely shrink. The price of log caulking depends on:

• height of walls and area of ​​the house;
• material used to seal cracks between the frame;
• the quality of the wood from which the walls are built.

Wanting to caulk a log house, the price of which is quite affordable by modern standards construction market, it is best to trust real professionals who can perform work of any complexity at highest level.

Materials for caulking a log house

Caulking of a log house, the price of which is determined by the craftsmen directly after inspecting the scope of work, must be carried out from the outside and inside walls This approach to work will ensure maximum moisture and wind protection of residential premises. Can be used for caulking timber various materials. Thus, the most in demand are tape and inter-crown linen and jute seals. With its use, you can easily caulk houses of any size.

Caulking, the price of which also depends on the quality of the sealant and the ease of working with it, can significantly increase the service life of the building and the quality of life in it. If you want to caulk your house, it is best to turn to professionals. Experienced craftsmen will be able to perform rather monotonous and labor-intensive work with the highest quality. The price of caulk in this case will become your investment in the durability of the wooden house.

Wooden log houses are characterized by plasticity and a tendency to undergo multiple changes in configuration and volume during the period of shrinkage and operation. The condition of the log house is also influenced by weather, features of operation, time of construction of the building and features of wood protection. In connection with this, the standards provide for primary as well as repeated caulking.

Features and reasons

Caulking is the process of sealing joints and cracks between logs in log house or a log structure. The main purpose of this process is to increase the thermal efficiency of the building. This is done by filling the gaps with special sealants.

Caulking can be done after all construction (including roofing) work has been completed, or during the process of assembling the walls.

Caulking allows you to solve a number of the following problems:

• insulation of the premises and (as a consequence) reduction in the cost of heating the building from the inside;
• elimination of gaps and cracks that appeared on the walls as a result of deformation and shrinkage of wood;
• preventing the formation of condensation on the walls as a result of differences between temperatures outside and inside the building;
• protection of wood from rotting.

The first caulking is carried out immediately after completion roofing works, the second - after the initial shrinkage of the building, after 6-12 months. After 3-5 years, re-caulking is carried out, since it is during this time period that complete shrinkage of the wood occurs.

Work must be carried out in the warm season. Winter is not suitable for this because the process will become even more labor-intensive, and the tree almost does not shrink during this period.

Houses and bathhouses must be insulated on both sides, outbuildings can only be compacted from the outside.

Materials

All materials for interventional insulation are divided into 2 categories. They are natural and artificial.

Natural

There are different natural materials, and they all have certain advantages. Let's take a closer look at their features.

Tow

It is one of the cheapest materials, which, unfortunately, cannot boast of efficiency. The thing is that tow absorbs moisture, as a result of which the heat loss of the building increases.

The material is based on flax fibers. Depending on their quality, the insulation can be bale or roll. The latter has short and stiff fibers, which makes styling difficult. Bale tow is softer and more elastic, and therefore easier to work with. The material is difficult to work with: it is not easy to insert it into the cracks or replace the damaged area. After insulation, the seam needs to be decorated, as it looks unaesthetic. Various microorganisms, moths, can grow in tow.

Moss

It is an environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material for caulking, has antibacterial properties and high thermal insulation qualities. However, such material attracts the attention of birds, which pull out the insulation for their nests.

Usually red or white moss is used. When collecting independently, it is better to carry out such work in late autumn, immediately sorting out the raw materials after collection (you need to remove soil, debris, and insects). Then the moss is dried, but not too much, otherwise it will become very fragile.

Felt

This material is made on the basis of sheep wool, it for a long time was considered one of the best interventional insulation materials. It's all about its low thermal conductivity, combined with high vapor permeability, soundproofing qualities, environmental friendliness, and the ability to not allow moisture to pass through. Long elastic fibers are easy to fit even into small gaps.

Disadvantages include susceptibility to moths and rotting. Adding synthetic components to felt makes it possible to eliminate these disadvantages, but increases the cost of an already expensive material.

Lnovatin

A material based on recycled flax fibers, characterized by high performance qualities and non-hygroscopicity. It provides a favorable microclimate in the room, because when the humidity level increases, it absorbs excess moisture, when it decreases, it gives back. In addition, this feature allows you to protect the wood from rotting.

Thanks to its composition, the material is absolutely safe.

Jute

The material is made from wood fibers exotic wood– jute. Due to the high content of resins in the material, it literally repels water and also provides antibacterial protection not only for inter-crown gaps, but also for adjacent logs. However, the high resin content is also a disadvantage. Under their influence, the material quickly becomes hard and dries out, which leads to the appearance of cracks. This phenomenon can be avoided by mixing jute with flax wool.

Artificial

Among materials of artificial origin, several options also stand out:

• Insulation materials based on polyester fiber. They are characterized by biostability, non-hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Available in tape form. Among the most famous manufacturers We can highlight “PolyTerm” (Finland) and “Avaterm” (Russia).

• PSUL(pre-compressed sealing tape). A material with low thermal conductivity, the peculiarity of which is the ability to shrink and expand following deformations and changes in the geometry of the wood.

• Sealants. Sealants based on silicone, polyurethane or acrylic base They are also used for caulking log houses, but they are not independent sealants. Their purpose is to seal cracks directly in logs, as well as to apply artificial sealants over them. Distinctive feature is the ability of sealants to expand and contract in accordance with the expansion or contraction of wood.

Requirements

The main requirement for insulation for inter-crown seams is a low thermal conductivity coefficient. In addition, the material must be moisture resistant, since no other waterproofing or vapor-permeable layers are provided for caulking. Since the insulation is in contact with environment, it must be resistant to winds, high and low temperatures and their sudden changes, as well as UV rays.

If we're talking about When insulating the inside of a log house, you should choose environmentally friendly seals. They must be non-toxic and not release hazardous compounds when exposed to high temperatures.

The biostability of a material is also an important quality associated with its durability. It is good if the seal does not attract birds, insects, or become home and food for rodents and microorganisms.

Considering the labor intensity and high cost, it can be noted that this material should be characterized by durability. The thermal efficiency of the seal should be maintained for 15-20 years.

As already mentioned, there may be several options for insulation. If we talk about methods of laying the sealant, then it can be laid during the construction of the log house or at the end construction work.

At internal insulation Thermal insulation of inter-crown gaps can be combined with the organization of insulation according to the principle of a ventilated frame. In this case, after the first and repeated sealing of the inter-crown seams, it is packed onto the surface of the log house. wooden sheathing, the pitch of which should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation.

Then, insulation is attached between the frame joists, and sheets of plasterboard are placed on top of it. An air gap of 30-50 mm is maintained between the insulation and the finishing. Drywall sheets are plastered and decorated.

Before attaching the sheathing, the surface of the log house is covered with an antiseptic. Similar actions are performed in relation to the surfaces of the joists.

Choice

The specific insulation technique depends on the type of structure and climatic conditions. It is believed that a new, properly constructed log house only needs inter-crown insulation. Additional thermal insulation from the inside will disrupt the microclimate in the room and hide the aesthetic log walls. The baths do not need to be insulated from the inside, since the additional layer of insulation will get wet, which will lead to freezing of the wall.

Primary caulking and sealing of small cracks are carried out using the “stretching” method, while repeated insulation or elimination of wide cracks is carried out using the “pull-in” method.

Tools

To carry out the procedure for insulating inter-crown seams, you will need following materials and tools:

• caulking– a tool that looks like a chisel, with which you can insulate gaps of various widths (from 2 to 10 cm);
• breaking caulk– is a thick narrow wedge for expanding excessively narrow gaps, allowing them to be filled more easily and with better quality;
• flat chisel, having a blade 50-60 mm wide, up to 5 mm thick - used for laying the seal in the corners and rounded parts of the log house;

• mallet– is a hammer made of wood, used to hammer in the seal;
• road worker– a type of caulk for forming even rolls from twisted heat insulator;
• hammer– they hit the mallet with it, driving the sealant into the inter-crown space;
• insulation.

A power tool or hammer drill is inferior to the described tools, since they do not allow the formation of a dense roller of material, but only drive it into the gap.

Methods and technology

There are two technologies for the caulking process:

• “Stretched.” Typically used for primary sealing of seams and involves maximum stretching of the material along the entire length of the frame. First, the first strand of insulation is laid, and on top of it - a twisted second strand. The insulation fibers are perpendicular to the direction of the logs, and the ends are rolled into a flat roller, which is driven inside the seam.

• "Recruiting." The method is used for re-caulking when the house has shrunk. This method involves hammering in a small amount of insulation, a strand of which is formed into a loop. Then, using a mallet or caulk, it is hammered into the crack, and the insulation fibers take a position perpendicular to the wood.

The process ends with final compaction. For this, a special tool is used - a road worker.

If you decide to caulk a house or bathhouse with your own hands, you should follow the instructions. The step-by-step process looks like this:

• Cleaning the inter-crown gap from dust and debris. It is convenient to use a vacuum cleaner for this.
• Insulation preparation: roll material should be spread over the entire length of the log house, with a small (about 20 cm) margin. It is necessary because in some areas the material can lie in waves, but it should be enough for one tier.
• One of the ends of the insulation tape is driven into the gap using a mallet.
• Then the material is hammered into the gap with a mallet and caulk. It is important to ensure that the seam is sealed and there are no distortions.
• If synthetic insulation was used, a sealant is applied over it.

When the insulation is laid during the process of assembling logs, it must be placed immediately on the first row, leaving the ends of the material hanging over on both sides. Then a second crown is placed, with insulation on top of it. This is how the work continues until the very last log. When all the work is completed and the roof is installed, the hanging ends of the seal are driven into the gaps using caulk. It is necessary to correctly collect the hanging ends towards the center of the crown.

When laying insulation (primarily this concerns moss), it is important to ensure that it lies evenly over the surface of the logs. It is unacceptable for them to show through the insulation, otherwise the log house will be cold. If tape insulation is used, it is rolled out along the crown and secured with staples. If the tape runs out, then the next roll begins to overlap (about 5 cm) to prevent the formation of gaps.

Caulking a wooden house is an important stage of insulation finished building using natural or synthetic thermal insulators. Here every detail matters: the right working tool, high-quality insulating material, technology for performing the work. Not all homeowners know how to properly seal roof gaps and joints in order to reduce possible heat loss, avoid distortion of the house structure, and prevent rotting of wood and heat insulation.

Why is caulking of a log house done?

Thermal insulation of a log house helps retain heat in the premises, prevents deformation of the wood and a decrease in its operational parameters. Modern insulation materials They are durable, practical and safe, therefore they provide high-quality caulking for wooden buildings.

Log caulking solves the following problems:

• eliminates cold bridges and reduces heat loss at home;
• corrects construction defects;
• eliminates various flaws in external and internal corners, crowns, door and window openings;
• makes the house more attractive and reliable;
• increases the service life of wood.

When is caulking done?

Caulking a wooden house is carried out in several stages, and this is explained by the gradual shrinkage of the wood. Maximum shrinkage occurs during the first 18 months after completion of construction work and stops after 5 years.

1. The first stage of caulking is performed after assembling the log structure. In this case, when building a house, thermal insulation material fills the space between the logs so that the edges hang freely on both sides. After installing the roof structure, the insulation is driven into the connecting seams between the crowns.
2. The second stage of insulation is carried out 1.5 years after the completion of construction work and preliminary shrinkage of the house. The insulating material is laid tightly enough to hide all the gaps and cracks.
3. The third stage of caulking is carried out after 5 years, when the process of shrinkage of the log house is considered completely completed. All existing defects between the logs are filled with insulation.

Important! For log house All three caulking steps are carried out, and for a house made of timber, which will be lined with siding on the outside, the third stage of caulking is optional.

Caulking materials

For caulking timber or logs, it is better to use natural insulation materials that have the following characteristics:

• hygroscopicity,
• resistance to temperature changes,
• breathability,
• environmental Safety,
• ease of installation.

Such insulation materials include:

• moss (red and white),
• tow,
• flax wool,
• jute.

Moss

The safest and practical material with excellent antiseptic properties. It provides reliable protection wood from rotting and biological damage.

Moss (sphagnum) is a reliable material for sealing crown joints: it allows air to pass through well and quickly absorbs excess moisture, prevents the development of pathogenic microorganisms and fungi, thereby increasing the service life of wood.

Moss is resistant to fire and decay, therefore it is able to retain its performance characteristics for a long time. High price - the only drawback similar material.

Self-procurement of raw materials will significantly reduce the cost of thermal insulation of a house made of logs or timber.

Before caulking the walls, the pre-prepared moss must have a suitable level of humidity - not be overly dry or moist.

Tow

Practical and safe material, which is used for caulking crowns after complete shrinkage of the log house. It is made from hemp, jute and flax fibers.

Sold in compressed bales or rolls. Tow in bales has short and hard fibers, which complicate the process of driving crown joints. Tape tow High Quality has long, elastic and soft fibers.

This material has low antiseptic properties, is susceptible to high moisture, and therefore requires additional processing protective impregnations or paints.

The main disadvantages of insulation include the difficulty of installation, unattractive appearance treated seams, short service life.

Lnovatin

Natural material for caulking wooden houses, which is produced by pressing short flax fibers into ribbons. Linen wool has high heat-insulating and moisture-resistant characteristics. Such insulation can provide reliable protection of wood from rotting and mold.

Linen batting is used to seal seams between crowns with fixation on metal staples.

Jute

The highest quality and most durable tape insulation for caulking houses made of logs or timber. The material has high heat-saving properties and is not susceptible to rotting and mold. Even with prolonged exposure to moisture, jute fiber remains practically dry.

Jute is used for primary and secondary thermal insulation of a house. It has high strength, wear resistance, elasticity and practicality. It is placed in interventional seams with fixation with staples.

The only drawback of the material is its high cost.

Caulking tools

If natural materials are used for thermal insulation of a wooden house, then before caulking you should prepare:

1. Mallet. A small wooden or rubber hammer designed for laying insulation using wooden caulks.
2. Stacked caulk. Spatula with metal or wooden base, blade width 10 cm, thickness 0.5 cm. This is the main tool for caulking the crowns of a log house.
3. Crooked caulk. A curved chisel with a flat blade 5 cm wide and 0.5 cm thick. Used for filling corner seams and gaps in rounded areas of the building with insulation.
4. Road worker. Triangular blade with a special longitudinal groove. The blade width is 17 cm, thickness is from 0.8 to 1.5 cm. The tool is intended for filling gaps of equal width.
5. Breaking caulk. A narrowed wedge-shaped blade up to 3.5 cm wide, which allows you to widen the inter-crown gaps for the convenience of laying heat-insulating material.

Important! All caulking blades should be slightly dull and smooth to avoid damaging the wood and pulling the insulation out of the seams. Before starting work, the tools are thoroughly cleaned with a clean cloth.

Log caulking technology

The process of caulking a log house is carried out in stages. There are two caulking methods:

• in a stretch,
• to the set.

It doesn’t matter what method is used to caulk the house, all insulation work begins with lower crown. Next we will look at how to properly caulk a wooden structure.

Stretch

Stretch caulk involves insulating the seams between logs with pre-stretched insulation. For this purpose, fibrous and rolled materials are used.

Fiber insulation

1. Work is carried out from the ends of the lower crown. A small part of the insulation (for example, tow or moss) is applied with transverse fibers to the seam and hammered inside with caulking.
2. Along the edges, the insulation is rolled up into a small roller and compacted into a crown joint.
3. Next, a new portion of insulation is used, which is formed into a roller, and the entire caulking procedure is repeated. This allows for high-quality sealing of the seam along its entire length.

Roll insulation

Dense rolls from roll insulation are much easier to obtain. For uniform distribution, the material is carefully stretched along the entire length of the seam and applied to it across the fibers.

1. The tape is unwound on a flat surface from one of the corners to the opposite corner.
2. Hooking it up by the free edge, using caulking, the insulation is laid into the inter-crown seam so that the free edges hang down by 5 cm. This way the entire length of the seam is filled.
3. After the seam is completely filled, the tape is cut off from the roll.
4. The rest of the insulation is driven into large cracks between the logs. The insulated seam must have the same thickness and protrude 3 mm beyond the edges of the grooves.

Included in the set

Caulking in the kit allows you to insulate wide and deep gaps between logs. Here, a larger volume of material is used, and accordingly, the quality of thermal insulation is higher. Tow, hemp rope or jute cord are suitable for this.

1. To caulk a log house with jute (the easiest option for beginners), a small amount of the material is unwound and folded into loops. Next, each loop is placed into the seam using caulk.
2. Hammering loops begins at the top of the seam and then continues at the bottom.
3. An additional strand is placed on top of the laid insulation for more high-quality insulation. The material is leveled along the entire length of the seam using a road builder.

If desired, insulation of the house in this way can be accelerated. In this case, the heat-insulating material is driven in using a hammer drill. The tool is used at low speed to prevent seam deformation. A pneumatic hammer with a compressor is also suitable for laying insulation.

Caulking corners

The corners in the log house are insulated after the main work is completed.

For this it is better to use roll insulation and crooked caulk. The process works as follows:

1. The free edge of the tape insulation is applied to the seam located in the corner and filled with crooked caulk.
2. After installing the material, its free edges are rolled up and hammered into the seam.
3. All work on laying insulation is carried out from top to bottom. To ensure uniform driving, the material is carefully stretched and straightened.

Decorative caulking

If the main task of caulking is thermal insulation of a wooden structure, then decorative caulking is used to decorate insulated crown joints.

To give the seams of a log house an attractive and harmonious appearance, experts recommend using rope and rope made of jute or flax as finishing.

The rope is carefully fixed to the surface of the seam using galvanized nails without heads, driven into the logs at a distance of 18 cm from each other. Decorative caulk is also suitable for hiding unevenly dried joints between crowns and additional insulation designs.

After completing the caulking process, the wooden house should be used as much as possible throughout the year. In winter, a check is made for the formation of new cracks and deformation of the laid insulation.

A year and a half after the first stage of caulking, the second stage is carried out. In this case, a thorough inspection of the structure is carried out, thermal insulation material is added where it has become deformed or fallen out, as well as where new gaps or distortions have appeared in the frame.

Caulking a wooden house is an important and responsible undertaking that requires a competent approach and compliance with all stages technological process. The internal microclimate in the premises and the duration of operation of the house depend on the quality of the work performed.

There is almost no reduction in the number of people wanting to build own house made of wood. Moreover, wooden buildings have a lot of advantages in comparison with frame, concrete and brick buildings.

But often many people forget that a wooden frame, whether it is built from logs, rounded logs or timber, has such a significant drawback or, rather, a feature as shrinkage and high deformability wooden elements. For this reason, the construction of a wooden house always takes quite a long time - first you need to wait for the frame to shrink, and only then can you begin finishing work.

But it leads not only to change geometric dimensions logs, but also to the appearance of cracks and leaks, which subsequently need to be sealed. Without this, the house will be cold, damp and uncomfortable. To eliminate any defects that have arisen, the walls are caulked.

What is caulking

The process of caulking is to eliminate gaps between the elements of the log house thermal insulation material, which is designed to prevent cold air flows from entering the house.

This seemingly simple work requires patience, accuracy and quite a lot of time from the performer. Caulking technology has remained virtually unchanged over the past centuries, so many developers prefer not to do caulking themselves, but use the labor of professionals.

The caulking process has several purposes:

• correction of defects made during the assembly of the log house;
• by eliminating cold bridges;
• elimination of gaps that inevitably arise in the crowns, corners of the house, between windows and the frame;
• giving the house a finished look.

You should not think that it is enough to caulk the house once and all problems will be solved.

Only at the first stage - during the construction of a house - caulking is carried out twice:

• after the initial shrinkage of the log house (about six months after its assembly);
• before starting finishing work.

In ancient times, the main materials for insulating a log house were moss and wool. They are still used today, but other materials have appeared on the market, varying in price and raw materials. Therefore, anyone, even those limited in funds, will be able to find suitable material to insulate your home.

In order to choose the right material for caulking, you need to know the properties that it should have (or at least most of them).

These are properties such as:

All materials used to insulate a log house are divided into two groups: natural and synthetic.

• tow;
• hemp;
• felt;
• flax wool;
• jute.

• mineral wool;
• foamed polyethylene;
• foam;
• sealants.

Of the artificial insulation materials, only sealants deserve attention.

Other insulation materials should not be used, as this will lead to undesirable consequences:

• good insulation, but she is afraid of moisture and can lead to the development of allergic reactions in some people;
• foamed polyethylene is a closed-cell material that retains heat well, but does not breathe, which can lead to rotting of the log crowns;
• foam rubber and other materials with open pores are not able to protect the seam from freezing, since air and water get into the pores (in addition, foam rubber sags under the weight of logs and decomposes in the light).

Seams can also be sealed using sealants. This process is much simpler and faster than traditional caulk. Some sealants (for example, Neomid) have good adhesion to wood and high elasticity. Sealants are applied using a construction gun. The seams obtained in this way are not afraid of moisture, do not decompose under the influence of UV rays, do not turn yellow or mold.

But, no matter how good modern sealants are, most owners prefer to caulk their homes using natural materials.

Moss- this is the most ancient and to this day quite effective insulation for a log house.

It has such necessary properties as:

• excellent hygroscopicity (capable of absorbing moisture in a volume 20 times its own);
• the presence of lignin in the structure of the fibers, which resists deterioration of both the moss itself and the logs;
• bactericidal properties - moss is able to destroy microorganisms.

Before caulking, dry moss is moistened in a solution prepared from 200 g of soap and 500 g of oil, dissolved in a bucket of water. Of all the types of moss, only two types are used as caulk: forest moss (cuckoo flax) and red swamp moss.

The moss is not laid after the frame is assembled, but during it. To do this, the moistened material is distributed in a layer of at least 10 cm along the crowns with the stems across. The ends of the stems, 10–15 cm long, are released outside for subsequent caulking. The disadvantage of this method is the high labor intensity of preparing moss (it must be cleaned of soil residues and dried) and quite difficult process caulking.

Tow It can be used, but it is not advisable.

There are several reasons:

• it is difficult to twist tow so that it does not fall apart;
• it absorbs water vapor well, so it is almost always in wet and spoils;
• in the heat, the material crumbles into dust;
• Birds love tow and use it to build nests.

Thus, the log house will have to be caulked too often. The tow is first treated with a formaldehyde solution and then dried. This protects it from pests. Working with tow is not very convenient, because it is too hard and it is very difficult to achieve a dense filling of the seam.

Hemp– made from hemp stem fibers, which are highly durable and resistant to various influences.

– non-woven material, made from felted wool. For caulking, it is cut into strips. Needs pre-treatment protective compounds, because it is easily damaged by moths and other pests. Currently, you can purchase impregnated felt that has already been treated with bitumen or resin.

Linen– it is advisable to use dry wood or wood to insulate the house. The material does not have high density and is afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture, which can cause rotting processes in it. The shade of flax caulk is usually gray.

Lnovatin– made from flax and jute, which together form good insulation. Material of racks external influences, has good density and the ability to restore its size. After the wood dries, leading to the formation of cracks, the material reliably fills all the resulting voids.

Jute- its properties resemble moss, but it is much easier to work with. The material has sufficient density to keep the cold out and keep the heat out of the house. Jute is a breathable, hygroscopic material. Besides all these positive properties jute has a beautiful golden hue, which greatly decorates the house.

Insulation technology for log walls

From ancient times to this day for insulation wooden walls two main technologies are used.

Stretching - used mainly for caulking narrow cracks:

• a strand is formed from the selected insulation, placed in the slot and pushed through with a spatula, leaving an edge of the material about 5 cm long outside;
• then a thin roll is rolled out of the insulation, which is wrapped into the left free edge of the insulation and carefully, using a chisel, hammered into the groove.

Included in the set - used for caulking large grooves and cracks between logs:

• the sealant is twisted into long strands up to 15 mm thick and wound into balls;
• then it is carefully unwound, while simultaneously hammering the material into the cracks using a caulking chisel;
• if there are gaps different sizes, then for larger ones the required thickness of the insulation is gained by twisting it into loops.

• caulks (they are different: type-setting, curved, broken);
• wooden mallet or rubber mallet with a wide head.

Caulking tools have a steel blade that must be soft and smooth, otherwise it may damage the seal.

Work order:

• The caulking process itself begins from the bottom, from the very bottom crown and continues upward. It must be taken into account that caulking the seams changes the height of the log house.
• One seam must be caulked along the entire perimeter of the log house, first from the outside, then from the inside. This will avoid distortions in the walls of the house.
• Then the next highest seam is processed. And so on until the very top.

It is forbidden to caulk individual walls; this may cause the wall to deviate from the vertical.

As you can see, the process of caulking a log house is not that complicated, but it requires great care and careful execution of all operations. Then your home is on long years will be protected from atmospheric influences, and the facades of the house will take on a finished look.