Arch made of telescopic extensions and platbands. Installation of extensions and platbands on interior doors. Pros and cons of using

Mostly all doors that are manufactured in specialized factories are designed for a certain wall thickness. In many cases it is on the order of 70 or 80 mm. But what about the owners of country or ordinary private houses? Their walls are often much thicker than apartment options.

In this case, you can trim the opening with sheets of plasterboard or do it even simpler - install the extension on interior doors. The method is simple and requires significantly less time and effort to implement. Some home owners plaster openings in places where there is no frame. But, nevertheless, the method of installing add-ons is less labor-intensive and more effective. Therefore, you need to carefully figure out how to attach the extension correctly.

What are extras?

The extensions consist of two racks located in a vertical position and one horizontal bar. It is located at the top of the opening. Thus, the finished structure increases the size of the box itself. Among the commonly used materials for making structures, the most popular are fiberboard, solid wood and MDF. They are wear-resistant and affordable in their price range.

Measuring and preparatory work

The installation of the extensions is necessary first of all in order to securely fasten the platbands. Correct fixation of the platbands can be carried out if the products are placed with their end faces towards the plane of the wall. It is best to take measurements when the box is assembled and installed. After this, the actual installation of the accessories is carried out.

Initially you should put ruler onto the box platform and keep it strictly perpendicular to the wall. It is necessary to determine the dimensions of the upper and lower parts of the product. At the same time, the width of one extension is different parts may differ, since walls are almost always imperfect. All data should be recorded on paper so as not to confuse the product parameters.

Many experienced specialists use a more accurate method. All additions are measured using square and straight slats. The first device is installed in the seat, and the second is applied to the plane of the wall. Where the square intersects with the rail there will be a width indicator. The size of each slope must be carefully checked, since an error can be made at any stage.

After these manipulations, they begin to cut the board. This is easy to do using hand saw. A jigsaw and bench saw also work well, provided you have them.

Installation

Installing extensions on an interior door with your own hands is quite simple. To do this, you need to decide, first of all, on the type of box. They are:

The first option is the simplest. It has everything to reliably install the extensions. The versatility of having a groove is that it allows you to adjust the position of the extension. This device also saves a lot of time. After adjusting the bar, you can immediately attach it to the wall.

Self-tapping installation

The first thing you need to do is drill a countersunk screw. As a rule, MDF boards, from which blanks are most often made, are approximately 10 mm thick. This means that the drill must have a maximum diameter of 9 mm. In order to more accurately and reliably attach the extensions to the interior door, the diameters of the drill and the head of the screws must match.

The screws themselves are chosen to be of such length that they literally extend slightly into the canvas of the box. If the products are too long, the wood will crack. Required condition– use of wood drills. They are characterized by the presence of special needle-shaped protrusions. Such products are capable of accurately centering holes.

When the tool is selected, drill a hole for the self-tapping screw. In this case, you need to choose not a perpendicular direction, but set the drill at an angle. This method will allow you to attach an additional element to the central part of the door frame.

The vertical posts are screwed in first with self-tapping screws. After fixing them, proceed to the installation of the horizontal strip.

Installation on studs

Another very effective way to install a door frame is the method of using nails.

For installation, you will need to drill small holes into which finishing nails will then be driven.

Critically important - drilled holes must be less than the length of the nails!

After this, you need to insert the nails with the sharp side outward, and remove the caps with pliers. Mounting timber is often used for driving nails.

When all fasteners in place, you can install the extensions and carefully nail the product, connecting it to the box.

Installation on foam

Installing additional doors using this principle is several times faster than other methods. The products are installed in place. After this they need to be wedged with inside. The surfaces should press against the door frame. The opening can be secured only after thorough cleaning and mandatory wetting of the surface.

Installation of telescopic extensions

This type of product has its own unique advantages.

It can be tightly fixed in the overall structure.
The surfaces adhere securely to each other.
Connecting the components together is quite simple.
The extensions with this configuration can move either up or down.
It is possible to move them inside and outside the product.
The power reserve of the parts is small, but these millimeters allow you to adjust the position of the extensions as accurately as possible and correct mistakes that were made during marking.
Special “adjustment” grooves make the design convenient and easy to install.

Comes with box

The method is to assemble the entire structure before attaching it to the wall. Both the box and the extensions are assembled into one whole. Additional elements that widen the opening are attached to the door frame. After this, the finished product is fixed.

The following tips will be useful:

Nails are used exclusively to press additional panels to the door frame. They don't keep it from moving.
In the process of drilling holes, you can make a crack on the front side of the product and between the slopes. Therefore, all work must be done carefully.

Additional board (extension) for the door frame: purpose, types, installation

If you are installing a door frame and its width is less than the thickness of the wall, this gap must be closed with something. To do this, use extensions on the interior door. We will talk further about what they are, what they look like, what they are like, how to install them.

What is dobor

When installing interior doors, a situation arises when the frame is smaller in width than the thickness of the wall. In such cases, a special board is used, which is attached to the door frame, closing the remaining space. This board is called the addition to the interior door. The names “additional board” and “additional plank” are also found. You can then attach a platband to it, which will close the gap between the extension and the wall.

Dobor - board for expansion door frame up to wall thickness

That is, the door extension is an additional part of the door frame. It is a board of certain sizes, which is joined to the door frame. They place it on one side - opposite to the one into which the door opens. You can also call this board an expander - it reflects its real purpose.

If the wall thickness is more than 140 mm, you have to install a door frame extender - an additional board

There may be some nuances regarding the connection between the fittings. Often the shape of the door frame is specific - with a special relief (protrusions, depressions, roundings). Then you will have to look for a selection specifically from this company, otherwise connecting them will be problematic.

Materials and sizes

Each manufacturer produces a certain set of additional boards, in which the length is fixed - 230-250 cm, the thickness/width varies. For example, there are the following options (thickness, width, length):

Shape, thickness, width may vary

Thickness and width - each factory has its own. Can be 60 mm, 65 mm or 75 mm. In general - any set. What if none of them suits your case? Take a larger width than required, then saw off the excess. What if your opening is wider than all available options? Order the size you need (many manufacturers make to order) or splice two smaller sizes. Another option is to use telescopic platbands. They come with a corner bend, which can cover your width gap.

If the doors are made of solid oak, it makes sense to install the same addition

What materials are interior door trims made from? From the same as platbands:

wood;

MDF and chipboard can be covered with veneer and laminated. Wooden ones can be treated or untreated. Select the material and color for the door frame. And this is another reason to buy from the same manufacturer - even if the color/texture name is the same, there is no guarantee that they will actually be the same.

Types of additions

There are two types of additional board:

With straight edges. An ordinary board that is attached end-to-end to the box. May be:
- with decorative edge;
- without decorative edge.
Types of extensions for interior doors: telescopic on the left, regular on the right

The addition to an interior door with straight edges is the most common board. In this case, it needs to be selected only by color and size. The extension is pressed against the box and secured with screws installed diagonally. One of the ends of the additional strip can be processed. This is necessary if the casing can be displaced.

Installation of an extension with smooth edges (not telescopic)

It is not very convenient to attach this type of extension. You have to think about how not to split the plank and how to close the screw heads. However, you don’t have to select the shape of the grooves/protrusions, which is far from simple and ties you to only one manufacturer.

If there are protrusions, grooves, roundings, you need an extension for the interior door from the same company as the frame

The telescopic door panel has pre-formed grooves. From a docking point of view, this is very convenient option: we drove the protrusion into the groove, tapped it until it completely coincided, and the entire installation was completed. But only if the match is perfect. How else is telescopic extension convenient? You can install a telescopic casing in it (if it fits).

How to install extensions on an interior door

In this paragraph we will talk about ordinary planks - with straight ends. Sold in lengths of 2100-2300 mm. Three strips are needed for one door: One on the right and left, and a piece from the third will go to the upper part. If you install several doors at the same time and they are the same color, one strip will go to the two “tops”.

How to attach fittings to an interior door

The width and length of the planks are usually larger than necessary, so they will have to be trimmed. What instrument? With what you have. A jujube that cuts DMF, chipboard or wood is suitable. To decorate the corners, you may need a miter box (if you are going to join the box (and extensions) at 45°. It is also convenient to use in order not to “fill up” the cut and make it strictly perpendicular.

We take measurements and make blanks

Before installing the extensions on the interior door, you need to find out the exact dimensions of the expansion strips. To do this, install a door frame in the doorway and secure it. Draw an opening on the plan; it will be easier to write the dimensions. Next, take a tape measure and a level, measure the size of the extensions that you need.
Now we cut out the sizes we need from standard planks. Make marks with a pencil - on light strips a simple pencil is clearly visible, on dark ones you can use a white one. We try on the cut strips in the opening; if necessary, we trim them a little.

We collect

Before placing the extensions on the interior door, they must be connected to each other. We lay out the cut out additional strips on the floor in the form of the letter “P”. If they have a processed edge, lay them out so that the edge is on one side. The planks will need to be connected to each other. If they are made from MDF or chipboard, you will need to pre-drill holes in the top rail.

Preparing for assembly

To do this, it is better to take a square (ideally a carpenter's square, but an ordinary school one will do). We draw a line on the plank that marks the middle of the thickness of the plank. If the thickness of the additional board is 10 mm, the line runs at a distance of 5 mm from the edge. If the plank is 15 mm thick - at a distance of 7.5 mm. We put two points on this line and then drill holes. Diameter - 1 mm less than the diameter of the screws.

We complete the assembly of the door frame

Next, the holes must be transferred to long strips. To do this, we join them and align the edges. Using a drill, we transfer the marks to the end of the plank, then deepen it to the required length (along the length of the self-tapping screw). Having made the holes, we join the planks and tighten the fasteners. The extension to the interior door is half assembled. But don't rush to attach the second bar. You need to try on what has already been assembled “in place.”

Fitting and trimming

We put the assembled L-shaped part in place, driving the strips into the groove in the door frame. The upper jumper turned out to be larger (this is how we measured it). Take a pencil and put a mark where the groove begins. Try to be precise as this is important. You don't have to cut off the excess. We simply draw a line along the mark and make marks on it, then drill holes. After assembly, the letter “P” is obtained. We have assembled the extension for the interior door, now we need to install and secure it.

Installation in a door frame

Now the addition can be installed. Check the opening first. If the doors were placed on foam, it may block the groove. We cut off the excess so that the planks fit freely. Insert the U-shaped structure into the groove, tapping the end with your palm. We start from the top, then to the sides.

We put it in place, having first removed the excess polyurethane foam.

Let's take it masking tape, we use it to fix the planks to the walls. If in some places the extension on the interior door does not fit tightly to the frame (there is a gap), we remove this gap with the help of pads. You can use mounting wedges for this. If you don't have them, make them from foam plastic. You just need to set the bar level; dense foam plastic is enough for this purpose.

Fastening the additional box

You also need to level the extension to the interior door. You shouldn’t rely on your eye; use a level. Using a level and wedges, we remove all protrusions and blockages. During the process, we fix the aligned areas with masking tape. The distance between the tacks is 40-50 cm. One at the top and bottom (stepping back about 10 cm), and then at equal intervals.

How to attach the extensions: during the installation process

Next, using low expansion polyurethane foam, we fill the space between the wall and the additional strip with it. Before use, read the instructions on the cylinder. It may be better to moisten the surfaces. In any case, the polyurethane foam must be laid in stages, otherwise it may bend the extension strips. Everything will have to be torn off, cleaned and foamed again.

So, first we apply foam deep into the gap. Not much, one strip. At the same time, we make strips across the entire width near the “tacks” (an example of applying foam to the door trim is in the photo above on the right). The foam in the area of the tacks will give the bar stability, the strip in the far part - near the joint - will press the extension to the groove, but will not bend the bar.

We leave the foam on the side strips to polymerize while we fill the gap from above. If it is as big as in the photo, there is no point in transferring a lot of foam. It’s easier to cut out a “bookmark” from polystyrene foam and place it in the appropriate size wooden block. It is slightly smaller in size than the free space. There should be a gap of at least 1 cm on all sides. But too large gaps are not needed.

How to install extensions on an interior door: filling the top gap
- We place small pieces of polystyrene foam 1 cm or so thick under the embedded part.
- Using a snake, apply a layer of foam to the back wall (if there is one).
- We install a foundation block and fill the gaps around the perimeter with foam. Again, not too much so that the foam extension bar does not bend downwards.
- If necessary, install a “front” bar (bottom left in the photo above). If the width of the block is sufficient, we skip this step.
- We level the position of the additional strip using a building level and secure it with masking tape.
After the first layer of foam has hardened (the time is indicated on the can), we fill the remaining space. If the extension to the interior door has a significant width, it is possible (and better) to apply foam in two stages. But each time you need to wait for the polymerization time. After that, all that remains is to install the platbands.

How to attach the extension to the door frame if it is thicker than the selected quarter

Often the extra is thicker than the quarter selected in the box. What to do then? How to make sure that the extension rests without cracks and holds tightly? There is a simple way - drill holes diagonally, screw in self-tapping screws, then close the holes with matching plugs. Here everything is more or less clear, but not very beautiful - the stubs are still visible.

There is another way. Need drywall hangers. Only they should be the strongest and thickest. We separate the perforated parts of the tape from the hangers. Each one makes two pieces. You will also need small screws (fleas). We screw the perforated tapes onto the door frame around the perimeter - at the corners at a distance of 10-15 cm, also at the bottom, and in height at a distance of 40-50 cm.

How to secure the addition

We screw in the screws at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the edge of the box (middle photo). One self-tapping screw per piece of metal tape is enough. When you install the door frame, the tape will stick out. These strips are thin, so there will be no problems with even the smallest gap. If the extension to the interior door is the same width, simply insert it. Due to their elasticity, the plates press it tightly.

How to install extensions if they are thicker than a quarter

If the extension is wider, first we bend them to the front part, then return them back. Due to the fact that they are not fixed at the edge, they bend and become like an arc.

This is how it can work out - without the slightest gap

Now we insert additional strips, placing them between the plates and the groove. They will press the bar tightly. The cracks will not be visible even upon closer inspection.

How to install extensions: installation tricks

You can install extensions for interior doors yourself. The materials needed for this are inexpensive, and necessary tools Even a novice home craftsman will find them.

Accessories for interior doors: what they look like and what they are needed for

Extensions (additional boards) are wooden planks or MDF panels that cover door slopes. Such slopes are formed if the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. As a result, the box does not cover the entire end of the wall and bare concrete or broken bricks are visible. Sometimes this area is plastered, covered with wallpaper, covered with plastic, but it is easier, faster and more aesthetically pleasing to install extensions.

Design of a door block using extensions

Unlike ordinary slopes, additional boards seem to continue the missing width of the box itself, forming a single structure with it. In order not to make a mistake with the tone, the additions are purchased simultaneously with the door leaf and cash.

Benefits of use
- Correctly installed extensions look presentable and, depending on the overall style decision, bring an element of wealth and luxury or restraint and solidity to the interior.
- The extensions are attached simply and quickly, which saves time, effort and money.
- During finishing work, the door block does not come into contact with wet solutions, which prevents it from getting wet and deteriorating. The service life of the door increases.
The finished design looks beautiful and modern

You can make the extensions yourself or buy ready-made ones. The store will offer additional trim strips in standard sizes:
- length - 2.1 m;
- width - 7–25 cm;
- thickness - 6–30 mm.
To calculate the width of the additional strip, add the depth of the groove in the box to the width of the slope, or subtract the width of the box from the thickness of the wall, taking into account the groove.

With particularly thick walls, the width of the extension can reach 40 cm or more, but such planks are made to order. The thickness of the additional strip should not exceed the width of the groove in the door frame.

Based on design features, additional strips are divided into:
- ordinary;
- ordinary with edged ends;
- telescopic.
The simplest addition is a straight strip of fiberboard (MDF) or laminate without a facing edge. Many craftsmen believe that gluing facing edges to the ends is a waste of time and money. After all, one end fits snugly against the door frame, and the second will be covered with a platband. But in this case, the installation must be done with special care, because a deviation of even a couple of millimeters will give away a novice master: the gray untreated edge will be striking.

The simplest addition is a regular bar

If the end of the trim is previously covered with an edge tape matched tone to tone, minor flaws will be invisible. The edge itself costs a penny, and you can stick it on in a few minutes using a regular iron. This method is also preferable because edging the ends prevents the MDF board from swelling under the influence of moisture. This is especially true for door units in kitchens and bathrooms.

A more advanced additional strip is distinguished by the presence of an edge at the ends

Most complex design at the telescopic accessory. Its feature is the presence of special grooves that allow installation without the use of screws and nails. Moreover, it is almost impossible to miss: the extension fits perfectly with the box and trim. The width of the extension is adjusted by the depth of the groove. To make a telescopic extension yourself, you will need certain skills and a special tool. It's easier to buy ready-made planks.

The telescopic door panel has special recesses

Required tools and materials

When installing extensions, a minimum set of tools is used:
- level;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- saw or jigsaw;
- plane;
- hammer;
- sharp knife.
- polyurethane foam;
- fasteners (screws, nails or “liquid nails”);
- additional strips.
As a rule, extensions are purchased together with the door leaf, but if the doors are not going to be replaced, but only plan to close the slopes, for the manufacture of extensions they use:
- wooden planks;
- pieces of MDF;
- long pieces of chipboard;
- plastic.
If natural wood is used, it is pre-treated with antiseptic impregnations to extend its service life.

Homemade panels made from regular MDF will differ from factory ones, since in industrial designs the interior between two thin fiberboards is filled with cellular material.

Chipboards are inferior to wood and MDF in appearance and durability, but chipboard boards can be used indoors.

Plastic is rarely used as a material for making accessories. And if it is still used, then especially durable, metal-reinforced PVC panels are selected.

Extensions can be made from natural wood, chipboard, MDF panels or plastic

Installation of additional strips

Installation in groove

If you plan to use extensions, then it is better to buy a door frame with a special groove. The presence of a groove not only speeds up the installation process, but also allows you to extend/retract the additional strip into the frame by a few millimeters, which increases the accuracy of installation.
It is convenient to take measurements using a construction square

Additional strips are purchased with a margin of width, and precise adjustments are made during the installation process

Design of a door block using conventional fittings

During installation telescopic extensions The tongue-and-groove method is used

The top panel lies on the side panels at a right angle

The gap between the wall and the extension is filled with foam

The use of foam during installation allows you to do without nails and screws

Installation without groove

If there is no special groove in the door frame, the extensions are attached end-to-end. Such installation requires very precise (up to a millimeter) measurements, careful adjustment of additional strips and special care during installation.
1. Measure the width of the slopes using the same method as when installing extensions in the groove.
2. Trim the additional strips to the required size. If there are extra millimeters left after sawing, they are cut off with a plane.
3. Edge tape is glued to the resulting sections. To do this, the edge is ironed with a hot iron, as a result of which the glue on the back side melts and the tape is firmly attached to the bar.
The edge is glued using an iron

Nails are hammered into the end of the extension and the heads are bitten off

After installing the extensions, the nails are not visible

Installation of platbands

After the extensions are installed and the mounting foam has dried, the trims are attached.
The length of the vertical casing is calculated taking into account the width of the horizontal

A miter box will help you cut the casing at an angle of exactly 45 degrees.

Marking is best done on site

The ends of the platband are filed in a mirror image

It is advisable to bite off the heads of the nails. So they will be almost invisible

If self-tapping screws are used instead of nails, then first drill a hole into which the head will sink. Then they are screwed in and the caps are closed with special plastic plugs.

At the bottom, the platbands reach the floor. No gap is left for the baseboard.

The plinth is only adjacent to the platband

Video: How to install extensions and platbands with a capital with your own hands

Installing extensions for interior doors yourself is not difficult, although the process cannot be called quick. But if everything is done correctly, the new door block will become the main decoration of the room.

Installation of door trim and trim

Why was this done? When we place an additional amount, the cash is inserted into it. And we can adjust the distance within this pass. About one and a half centimeters.

Now, if for example, this distance is not 8 centimeters, like here. And there from 5 to 15 millimeters, we can cash out immediately without additional charges. This box is certainly not telescopic. This door has been installed for a long time. This simple box. In general, telescopic boxes contain passes here. Immediately so that the cash can be mounted there.

Where do I start installing the addition. First I saw off to height. First I end up at the bottom, then I make a mark here stationery knife and sawed it off 1 millimeter shorter.

Then, I take a square and measure this distance from the box to the edge. And add more depth to the groove. IN in this case this is 1 centimeter. And I make markings on the reverse side. Here's the line.

Well, here we need to take into account that you need to saw off from the side where it will be inserted into the box. Because this region cannot be spoiled. Well, here I expect the additional strip to be about a couple of millimeters less than the plane of the wall itself. Because it doesn't matter here. I can adjust these 2-3, even 5 millimeters with this cashing spike. If there are ordinary additional strips, then on the contrary, I make the width of the additional strip 1 millimeter larger. For what? So that there is enough cash in any case. And you need to measure. The walls are not always level, so I measure at several points. Well, at about 4. Up, somewhere here and down.

If the wall is approximately flat, you can do it at 3 points. And thus I adjust the left and right additional strips. Then I mount the top one on top of them, directly on them. I saw off the whole thing with a jigsaw. Can circular saw some kind of parquet or mini-circular. I mark the top bar like this.

Here I put it like this, so that this edge of it is before the beginning of the groove. Here I also mark, right in the groove. Just a knife and that's it. Then I turn it over and put it in like this. And here we make marks as if in width. Because there are different left and right edges. This is how we make marks. Here and here. Like this.

And then I draw and cut.

Installation of the extension

So, now that all our inlaid planks are prepared, sawed off, we install them in place.

This is where the plane coincides. I check it with my fingers.

So, here is a right angle and up to the groove. This is what we get.

Like this. Why do we need to do this here? So that when we insert cash, nothing sticks out here or gets in the way. And this corner will tighten up, and that’s how it will be. Here he is.

It should be. This plane also coincides. Here she is. Here too. Everything matches.

In the case when, for example, a gap forms in this corner. Well, there is no foam there, for example, to rest against. This is where I drill and screw in screws. They seem to be a stop, and they prop up this entire corner. That's all. Now we will mount them. To do this, first I will wet this thing so that the foam will move away better. It expands more evenly.

Because foam expands when exposed to moisture. So, let's take the foam. And with these cakes I go through the entire perimeter.

Now I take the wide masking tape from me. And I fix the gain. I make sure that there is a right angle.

And so on around the entire perimeter. This is how I recorded it all. After about one hour, you can already withdraw everything and put it in cash. I will also do the same procedure on this side. From the edge and from above. That's it, the supplies will be ready. This fastening is quite sufficient. There is no load here. No mechanical fastening is required here. All this stuff is ready. You can say it will freeze now and that’s it. Propenil, fixed it.

Why do I do it with dots like this and not all over? Two reasons. Firstly, saving foam. Secondly, it is a guarantee that the extensions will not be squeezed out by an arc. Because the foam has room to expand into free space. That's all. The selection is done. This is done briefly within 10-15 minutes. Now I'll do some additional work on the other door. During this time, the foam will cool down and you can start cashing out.

Cashing installation

Our selection has frozen. I trimmed the foam and removed the tape. Now I will bet cash. But I will place it here at an angle of 45 degrees.

In general, telescopic cashers are installed, as a rule, cut like this at a right angle here. And from above the cash goes here, like this.

But, since this door has cashing already installed like this. This means that you need to do the same on this side too. How to mark. So I take it and put a half-mark here with a knife. Like this. That's it, I'll cut it here and here.

I put the top one first. Then I also place the vertical ones overlapping like this. This is how I put it and make a mark. This is how she stands, for example. And I did it again.

So once again I put a mark. Here she is, you can barely see her. And I cut everything off. First, of course, you need to trim the bottom, and then I applied liquid nails here on this edge. Right here. Here on this road edge, like this.

Here, here and along the entire length. And I'll slam her. Because if you glue the entire groove. This glue will fill everything, and it will be almost impossible to remove it. It’s already tight there and you just need to fix it a little. You can apply glue here. Directly on the wall, several points. It would be enough.

We put everything in. Maybe a little between them.

We install everything.

So, this is what we got in the end. This is the corner.

Here you can tint it with a pencil so that the seam is not visible. It won't rush into the gas too much. And here it is, that's all. Everything is clear and beautiful. I’ll show you now how to do the markings. Here I put it, the knife like this.

All. There is a mark. Now we take the mark like this, here. And we hold the knife at a right angle and move it. That's it, now you need to cut it diagonally. That's it, it goes to trimming. The truth here is that because there is a groove, it becomes crooked. I'm just placing a piece of wood here to the thickness of this distance.

I put it here and it sits evenly. And I saw off.

Well, this is what we got in the end. Such a bonus. Black, hard to see, well, nothing. Now I'll show you up close.

Everything is tight, everything is smooth, no cracks. This is the node. That's it, the door is absolutely ready.

All rights to the video belong to: Roman Zaitsev

We install door panels in different ways

Extensions, or additional boards, are installed in the frame of the door if the width of the door frame (jamb, “jamb”) is less than the thickness of the wall in which the door is installed. Extensions play not only an aesthetic role, covering uneven and easily dirty slopes (if you are interested in other methods of finishing slopes, read about them here). They, together with the platbands, also strengthen the door and prevent it from warping. Do-it-yourself installation of extensions is possible both when installing a new door and on an existing door. We will look at the most common cases.

Additional boards can be made independently, from a flat board, edged or tongue-and-groove, for thick walls. For very thick or damp walls or backing boards, waterproof BS plywood (aircraft plywood) covered with a decorative self-adhesive film is very suitable: BS plywood does not delaminate or crack during fine processing of the edges and does not warp from moisture.

Door frame with extensions. The mustard color indicates the lining.

However, most often it turns out to be cheaper and easier to use ready-made additional MDF boards with decorative coating. The standard dimensions of factory-made extensions are in the range of 80 – 550 mm. For cases where it is necessary to make stacked extensions on thick walls, MDF extensions with a tongue-and-groove lock are produced.

According to standard technology, the extensions are installed in a special recess on the inside of the door frame - a quarter. However, when installing extensions on an already standing door, it is permissible to use attached extensions (adjacent to the door frame) and underlays (slipped under it).

Attached extensions are recommended to be used only in dry rooms with moderate temperatures and in cases where the door is made of very high quality or may lose value due to alteration (for example, if the door is an antique item or a museum exhibit).

If the door is slanted

If the door jamb is skewed and the deviation of the top bar from the horizontal is more than 5% of its length, and the door leaf is adjusted to fit the slanted frame, installing extensions without altering the door is not recommended. The door frame itself does not warp; its distortion indicates structural defects, without correction of which the additions will not immediately look good, and subsequently they will warp and split.

Tools and accessories

To install door trims, you will need some additional tools: a hand-held wood router, a hand-held circular (parquet) saw and a clamp with a soft bed frame. The clamp is most needed so that, by pressing the saw against the stool with the disc up, you can get a convenient mini-circular saw. You can tighten the clamp softly by successively putting it on it and heating it over gas burner at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 m, heat-shrinkable tube in 3-4 layers.

The accessories you will need are 3-4 stools of the same height and not wobbly, 4-5 wooden planks approximately 30x30 or 40x40 mm, a dozen wedges from the same strip and several strips (you can waste) of ordinary packing plywood or plasterboard.

Door installation process

Knocking out the base plane

In a doorway prepared for installation of extensions, you must immediately beat off reference plane, and mark her mark on the floor with a pencil. This is exactly done using the Pythagorean triangle method (a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5; the “magic triangle”). Let's give an explanation of how to do this in the figure:
- We consider half the width of the doorway at the bottom to be equal to three basic lengths - 3l. If, for example, the width of the opening is 60 cm, then half of it is 30 cm, and the base length (l) is 10 cm.
- We make two marks from the corners of the opening with a cord 5l long. From their intersection at point B to point O (the middle of the opening) there should be 4l. In this case, the OB line will be exactly perpendicular to the plane of the opening, and all measurements can be taken horizontally from it; a plumb line will give the required vertical accuracy.
Note: If you have the opportunity to use a laser base surface projector, then the described procedure is not necessary. But it will not be possible to achieve the required accuracy with the help of a carpenter's or plumber's large square: the error will be greater than the size of the gap between the door leaf and the door frame.

What to do if the walls are sloped

When checking the verticality of the walls, it may turn out that they have a slope, positive or negative. If the slope does not exceed 5 mm along the height of the door, it can be eliminated on the surface under the casing with plaster. If it’s more, there’s nothing you can do; when sawing additional boards to size, you’ll also have to cut them into a wedge.

Foam blowing

After installing the additions, the cracks are filled with polyurethane foam before plastering. When the foam hardens, it expands and creates quite significant pressure. To prevent this from affecting the finished door frame, you must follow the following rules:
1. Do not remove the leveling wedges until the foam has completely hardened.
2. Also, do not remove the spacer bars; if they were not previously needed, install them with friction, but not tightly. Spacer strips should support the extensions, and not push them apart.
3. Blowing with foam uniform movement along the perimeter in 3-4 steps; each subsequent one - after the previous one has completely hardened.
4. There should be some space left from the outer edge of the foam to the edge of the slope. If you see the next layer of foam coming out, stop blowing. “Re-plastering” later is better than “blowing out” now.
Immediately with the box

The most technologically simple case is to install door trims yourself when installing a new door along with the door frame. This operation is performed in the following order:
- We place the door jamb on the stools with the inner (opposite to the hinges) side up.
- We align the corners to rectangularity, checking with the diagonals: they should be of equal length. To do this, we temporarily nail to the bottom with small nails a wooden strip with a length equal to the length of the top strip of the door.
- If the jamb does not have a quarter for additional finishing, we select a quarter with a milling machine. The depth of the quarter should be equal to the thickness of the additional board, and its width should be equal to the depth.
Example: additional board – 16 mm thick ( standard thickness MDF). You need to choose a quarter 16X16 mm.
- Along the perimeter of the door frame, we attach strips of plywood or drywall to the outside so that they protrude upward to the width of the additional board. A continuous frame is not needed; two scraps are enough for the top bar and 3-4 for the sides. We nail the plywood with nails; The drywall will have to be secured with self-tapping screws.
- We cut the extensions to size. The top trim strip should lie between the side ones, so we cut it to the size of the top quarter, and the side strips to the size of the sides of the box.
- Apply liquid nails or any wood mounting adhesive to both edges of the quarter.
- We insert the additional boards into place and wait for the glue to set.
- We are renting a temporary bottom bar, kept the extensions from falling out of the plywood and put the door frame in place.
- Align the box with the base plane.
- We align the box width using wooden spacers; We check the verticality of the sidewalls with a plumb line.
- By knocking wedges under the sidewalls, we achieve horizontality of the upper door strip.
- We fill the cracks with foam and plaster them flush with the wall surface.
- We nail the baseboards, cut them to size and glue the platbands with liquid nails - the door with extensions is ready.
Finished door and straight slopes

In this case, in order to facilitate the installation of the extensions, you need to prepare in advance a dozen or so thin, 3-4 mm thick, wedges from waste plywood. After that:
1. We knock the plaster off the slopes and check if there is a quarter on the door frame. If yes, then all that remains is to select additional boards according to thickness.
2. We cut the extensions to size, but not in the same way as described above: the top board will now fit the size of the box at the top; side ones - the size of the side quarters.
3. We apply liquid nails to the inner edge of the side panels and insert them into place. If you can reach a quarter, it is better to apply glue to it.
4. We adjust the height of the extensions using wedges from below, as described.
5. We insert one by one spacer strips, pre-cut to the width of the doorway, and support the extensions on the side of the slope with thin wedges so that they do not fall out. We check the verticality of the extensions with a plumb line; better - two at once, suspended in advance.
6. Apply glue not to the tops of the side panels, but to the inner edge of the top panel board (or a quarter), and lay the top panel board.
7. After the glue hardens, blow it with foam and decorate it as described.
If there is no quarter and with inclined walls

If the door frame is without a quarter, then there are two options:
- Reverse quarter. Using a milling machine, we remove a quarter of the extensions, 10-15 mm wide and half the thickness of the extensions. For “not very” sloping walls, this option is convenient because the quarter of the extension can be made oblique in width, and such extension will hold up no worse than a “normal” one.
- If the walls are brick, then you can knock out a groove in the slope under the door frame and install lining. This option is convenient for those who do rough work with a lot of effort better than light but fine work.
In both cases, the extensions are installed using auxiliary thin wedges, as already described.

Slopes with slope

If the slopes of the doorway are sloping (a widening opening), then, regardless of whether it is a new door or an existing one, the extensions must be installed with the door standing. The fact is that when installing direct extensions, you will end up with a very wide gap. After blowing with foam, there will be a space behind the casing where the plaster lies on the foam. Sooner or later, cracks and/or gaps will form there.

Therefore, before installing extensions in openings with inclined slopes, the inner edge of the extensions must be reduced along the length to a wedge, as marked in the figure with a red circle. After cutting to size, the extensions themselves will take the shape of a trapezoid. Otherwise, the installation of add-ons in this case has no special features.

Interior doors

As a rule, extensions are installed on the side opposite to the door hinges. But when installing interior door extensions, there may be a case when they will have to be installed on the hinge side. If so, then you need to first check whether the additions will not interfere with the opening of the door.

If at completely open door between its edge and the edge of the door frame there remains a gap equal to the thickness of the trim with a margin of 2-3 mm, there are no problems: we install the trim using any of the methods described above. If the edge of the door is adjacent to the edge of the frame, you need to install backing boards, having first knocked down the plaster from the slopes. This should not be neglected: just 1.5 mm of “pressing” the sash against the door panel eats up 10 degrees of its opening angle, not to mention the fact that the door panel will soon be damaged.

ABOUT full cycle Read about interior door installation here.

Steel doors

Extensions on steel doors can only be installed as underlays. There is a nuance here: along the length of the extensions, along their inner DECORATIVE side, at a distance of 10-12 mm from the edge you need circular saw choose a groove with a depth of a third of the thickness of the extension and a width of the thickness of the corner from which the door frame is welded plus 1 mm. It is in this groove, when the edge of the steel door frame fits into it, that the frame will hold the extension with itself.

Even more information about the nuances of installing entrance doors can be found at the link.

Stacked accessories

When covering walls with MDF panels, laminate, etc. The door frame can be assembled using pieces of sheathing material, longitudinal or transverse. But technologically, such an operation already relates to the technology of wall cladding, and not the installation of add-ons.

A beautifully designed doorway always looks neater and gives the whole room a finished look. It’s hard not to notice how much it transforms when it’s framed. And the point is not only that they hide all the nuances of the installation process, but also that the opening becomes more pronounced and noticeable. Very often, designers specifically pay great attention to such finishing. As a result, they receive a unique and often one-of-a-kind decorative element. More and more often you can find openings in which there are no door panels. Sometimes this is also a deliberate move by designers, and sometimes it is simply a necessity. Today we will look at the questions designing a doorway without a door. Let's consider when it is appropriate to leave openings open, and what disadvantages and advantages such a decision entails.

1. Open doorway – a design move or a necessity?

Doorways open type increasingly found in interiors modern apartments. Sometimes this is truly a design technique that is designed to add originality to the overall atmosphere. But more often than not, this is a very correct move in terms of visual expansion of space and saving free space. At the same time, no one says that such an opening cannot look interesting and unusual. Standard swing doors take up a lot of space, especially if they open inward. Depending on the width of the opening, the door can “eat up” up to 1 square meter of the total area. Appear instantly restrictions on the placement of furniture or decorative elements and a lot of other inconveniences.

Sometimes they are used instead sliding structures, which are undoubtedly much more compact. However, they do not always look aesthetically pleasing. If the door guides are not enclosed between the walls, they must be mounted on one of them. Thus, the appearance of a wall in one of the rooms may look spoiled. Therefore, in some cases, it would be advisable to decide to dismantle interior doors. In this case, the line between two adjacent rooms is automatically erased and a single space is formed.

Sometimes it's real appropriate, For example:

In case of increasing the size of the room by adding a balcony or loggia to it. In any case, such actions are accompanied by the dismantling of the balcony block, otherwise the whole plan will not be brought to life;
If you plan to combine a living room and hallway. Organizing an open-type portal in this case will blur the line between two rooms that are completely different in purpose, but still maintain a conditional separation. The living room is not large sizes at the same time it will seem much more spacious;
If you have organized in the bedroom, sacrificing the size of the bedroom, it is better not to use solid door leaves. Leave the opening without doors, and we will teach you how to decorate it beautifully.

Many people use a similar technique when connecting a living room to a kitchen. Most often, the opening is made in the form of different shapes. Undoubtedly, this is the most aesthetic way of combination. But do not forget that if you use the kitchen for its intended purpose and are actively preparing food, then all the smells accompanying this process will instantly spread throughout the apartment.

Also not quite right The solution would be to dismantle the door panels in the children's room, bedroom or office. All these rooms require separate space. Of course, an exception may be the case when you live alone and, in principle, there is no one to retire from. In all other cases, doorways without doors can expand the space. Therefore, you can especially often find them in small apartments.

2. Advantages and disadvantages of doorless doors

Once we've figured out when it's appropriate and when it's not to use free doorways, it's time to talk about the clear advantages and disadvantages of this technique. Let's start with disadvantages:

When dismantling door frames there is no clear delineation of where one functional area begins and another ends. Using the example of combining a kitchen with a living room in a similar way, we realized that this is not always appropriate. Of course, there are exceptions. For example, when you visit the kitchen in the morning to make coffee or in the evening to have a light snack. However, this same effect of blurred boundaries in other cases can be an advantage;
If we consider that the lack of private spaces for a person who lives alone is not critical, then all the same There are rooms in the apartment where doors are simply necessary. For example, in bathrooms. This lack of open openings is not critical, however, it does occur.

Now let's talk about benefits organization of portals:

3. Choosing the shape of the opening depending on the style of the interior

Before choosing ways to design a doorway, you should think about its shape. Of course, you can leave everything unchanged. And rectangular open portals look very impressive. And you can try choose a form opening, focusing on indoor interior. After all, the opening must fit harmoniously into the overall picture and emphasize its features. Let's consider the most suitable different styles forms:

Chic destinations such as , Rococo or Renaissance imply a predominance of symmetrical, regular lines. This simplicity is compensated by a large abundance of decorative elements. It can be complex carvings, various stucco moldings with gilding or complex arched bas-reliefs;
Discreet and noble classic style the best way will complement the openings arched type. In this case, arches are preferably oval, three-centered or semicircular in shape. Of course, the classics cannot do without such material as wood, which can be decorated with decorative carvings or milling;
Eastern directions They also prefer arched openings, but their shape can be more varied. They can be pointed or keeled, in the shape of a heart or a circle. In general, in this case you can give free rein to your imagination and focus on the shapes and silhouettes of pieces of furniture;
Romantic destinations don't overload complex curves. All elements in them should remain light and airy, smooth and graceful. Openings with a semicircular, gently sloping shape without sharp transitions are ideal. At the same time, you should not abuse the amount finishing materials and choose rough and heavy options;
Modern and sleek styles, such as , or techno, recognize only strict correct geometric shapes. There can be no talk of any ovals. Strict symmetry must also be present. Therefore, in this case, it is better to leave the shape of the opening unchanged and just carefully align all the corners and edges;
Such interesting and extraordinary directions as or pop art They must definitely have an object of a very unusual shape in the interior. This is usually a small piece of furniture, such as an armchair, stool or. But why not show your imagination and create an opening with a winding, asymmetrical shape? It is this solution that will best complement and emphasize the stylistic identity of the room.

When choosing the most suitable form, you should lean on not only to the above recommendations, but also to ceiling height in room. Otherwise, you risk once again drawing attention to an existing shortcoming.

When choosing this type of finish, remember that natural wood requires careful care. As for the rest, it all depends on your financial capabilities and imagination. The color of wooden openings should be coordinated with the color of the floor or baseboards. You can also rely on the color of the furniture.

The design style also plays a role. After all, not everything modern trends welcome the use of such “warm” materials. For example, minimalism prefers plastic or metal.

12. Decorative finishing with natural or artificial stone

When choosing natural stone finishing, it is imperative consider his weight and select an adhesive mixture specifically for such material. In addition, installation is also complicated by the fact that the fragments can slide under their own weight, so you either need to lay them using the same technology as - using a piece of metal profile and wedges, or hold each pebble for several minutes until the glue sets.

Also, some experts argue that installation should start directly from the floor, but this is not always appropriate. For example, if you want to use baseboards, it is better to leave space for them rather than install them on top of stones. Natural stone is expensive material. Therefore, very often they give preference to an artificial substitute. Its appearance imitates natural texture at a fairly high level. It is lighter and more affordable, easier to install and cut. And to make the process even easier, we came up with ready-made corner elements.

Doorways lined with stone look very cozy. However, you should not choose a similar finish for deep and narrow openings. It may turn out that the opening will resemble the entrance to a cave, which is not appropriate in all interiors.

13. Arch instead of the usual “rectangle”

Arched openings have become popular a long time ago and are still actively used by many designers. Doorways of similar shape are Very a good decision for use in small spaces. They help to visually make the space more spacious. And correctly selected proportions of the width and height of the arch can “raise” a low ceiling. Arches can be of standard shapes or the most unpredictable.

Very often, such an element is key in the interior, and the entire decoration depends on it. You can purchase ready-made arched portals from a variety of materials, or you can do arch on one's own. Often the frame of the desired shape is mounted from metal profiles and covered with plasterboard. Instead of profiles, you can use wooden planks of sufficient thickness. A layer of plaster is applied on top of it, and then decorative finishing is performed. Very often, arches can be found as a connecting element between a room and a loggia. They can have built-in shelves, lighting, niches for placing decorative items or a fragment. It can also be used as a dressing table or a place to place indoor plants. Advantage The design of a doorway in the form of an arch is that it can fit into almost any interior style. It is enough just to choose the appropriate shape and finishing material.

And for creation various functional elements. This could be a composition of wall niches, or it could be a homemade shelving unit. The space around doorways is often empty. If you arrange shallow plasterboard shelves around the perimeter, you will be able to save space and provide enough space to place souvenirs, books, and family photos. In this case, the need to purchase a wall or cabinet may automatically disappear.

In addition, such structures can frame openings not only of rectangular, but also semicircular shapes. This solution looks very original and interesting. Follow-up drywall finishing will depend on the style of your room. You can simply plaster and paint the surface, matching the color to the wall covering. Separate shelves are possible supplement multi-colored backlight. The back walls of the shelves can be papered or painted in a distinctive color.

This will add originality to the design and make it visually deeper. You can probably build absolutely any type of structure from plasterboard. The main thing to remember is that it should not be loaded with heavy objects. Still, such elements are more decorative in nature.

15. Decorating a doorway using textiles

Decorating doorways with textile elements can be called the most romantic of all methods. Translucent tulle blowing in the wind will create a stunning atmosphere, especially if you choose a fabric with a barely noticeable shiny thread that will shimmer in the sun. It is with the help of curtains that you can create a design that, if necessary, will create a secluded environment. If you nevertheless decide to connect the bedroom with the living room or other room, then choose opaque curtains with side tie-backs to decorate the doorway.

In addition to the usual transparent or light-proof fabrics, thread curtains, curtains made of bamboo or beautiful beads are perfect. You can create complex compositions from several types of fabrics with lambrequins and other elements. Such volumetric design is appropriate only in large rooms and for wide openings. A room in which the door and window openings are decorated identically looks very interesting.

The only thing you shouldn’t do is choose roller or Chinese curtains or vertical fabric blinds for decoration. In this case, walking between rooms will be very inconvenient.

Accessories for interior doors: what they look like and what they are needed for

Extensions (additional boards) are wooden planks or MDF panels that cover door slopes. Such slopes are formed if the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. As a result, the box does not cover the entire end of the wall and bare concrete or broken bricks are visible. Sometimes this area is plastered, covered with wallpaper, covered with plastic, but it is easier, faster and more aesthetically pleasing to install extensions.

Design of a door block using extensions

Unlike ordinary slopes, additional boards seem to continue the missing width of the box itself, forming a single structure with it. In order not to make a mistake with the tone, the additions are purchased simultaneously with the door leaf and cash.

Benefits of use

Correctly installed extensions look presentable and, depending on the overall style decision, bring an element of wealth and luxury or restraint and solidity to the interior.
The extensions are attached simply and quickly, which saves time, effort and money.
During finishing work, the door block does not come into contact with wet solutions, which prevents it from getting wet and deteriorating. The service life of the door increases.

The finished design looks beautiful and modern

You can make the extensions yourself or buy ready-made ones. The store will offer additional trim strips in standard sizes:

To calculate the width of the additional strip, add the depth of the groove in the box to the width of the slope, or subtract the width of the box from the thickness of the wall, taking into account the groove.

With particularly thick walls, the width of the extension can reach 40 cm or more, but such planks are made to order. The thickness of the additional strip should not exceed the width of the groove in the door frame .

Based on design features, additional strips are divided into:

ordinary;
ordinary with edged ends;
telescopic.

The simplest addition is a straight strip of fiberboard (MDF) or laminate without a facing edge. Many craftsmen believe that gluing facing edges to the ends is a waste of time and money. After all, one end fits snugly against the door frame, and the second will be covered with a platband. But in this case, the installation must be done with special care, because a deviation of even a couple of millimeters will give away a novice master: the gray untreated edge will be striking.

The simplest addition is a regular bar

If the end of the trim is previously covered with an edge tape matched tone to tone, minor flaws will be invisible. The edge itself costs a penny, and you can stick it on in a few minutes using a regular iron. This method is also preferable because edging the ends prevents the MDF board from swelling under the influence of moisture. This is especially true for door units in kitchens and bathrooms.

A more advanced additional strip is distinguished by the presence of an edge at the ends

The telescopic extension has the most complex design. Its feature is the presence of special grooves that allow installation without the use of screws and nails. Moreover, it is almost impossible to miss: the extension fits perfectly with the box and trim. The width of the extension is adjusted by the depth of the groove. To make a telescopic extension yourself, you will need certain skills and a special tool. It's easier to buy ready-made planks.

The telescopic door panel has special recesses

Required tools and materials

When installing extensions, a minimum set of tools is used:

polyurethane foam;
fasteners (screws, nails or “liquid nails”);
additional strips.

As a rule, extensions are purchased together with the door leaf, but if the doors are not going to be replaced, but only plan to close the slopes, for the manufacture of extensions they use:

wooden planks;
pieces of MDF;
long pieces of chipboard;
plastic.

If natural wood is used, it is pre-treated with antiseptic impregnations to extend its service life.

Homemade panels made from regular MDF will differ from factory ones, since in industrial designs the interior between two thin fiberboards is filled with cellular material.

Chipboards are inferior to wood and MDF in appearance and durability, but chipboard boards can be used indoors.

Plastic is rarely used as a material for making accessories. And if it is still used, then especially durable, metal-reinforced PVC panels are selected.

Extensions can be made of natural wood, chipboard, MDF panels or plastic

Installation of additional strips

Installation in groove

If you plan to use extensions, then it is better to buy a door frame with a special groove. The presence of a groove not only speeds up the installation process, but also allows you to extend/retract the additional strip into the frame by a few millimeters, which increases the accuracy of installation.

It is assumed that by the time the extensions are installed, the door frame is already secured in the doorway. Therefore, first measure the distance from the door frame to the edge of the wall. All slopes are measured separately and each at a minimum of four points. As a rule, these indicators differ: even if the box is installed strictly vertically, the wall itself may be uneven. It is convenient to take measurements using a construction square
The depth of the groove in the door frame is added to the width of the slope. The resulting value determines the width of the additional strip.
Using a jigsaw or saw, trim the extensions to the required length and width. Additional strips are purchased with a margin of width, and precise adjustments are made during the installation process
The extensions are installed in the grooves of the door frame. Design of a door block using conventional fittings
If telescopic extensions are used, then the door frame and platbands must also be telescopic. The entire block is assembled like a construction set, inserting the protrusions of some elements into the recesses of others. For strength, additional strips and trims are placed on glue or “liquid nails”. The structure assembled in this way looks like one whole. When installing telescopic extensions, the “tenon and groove” method is used.
The upper horizontal extension lies on the side ones, forming the letter P. The upper extension lies on the side ones at a right angle
To ensure the immovability of the extensions, they are temporarily attached to the walls and box with masking adhesive tape.
Eliminate voids formed between the additional plank and the wall by filling the gaps with polyurethane foam. As a rule, spacers are installed between the extensions. If there are no spacers, the gap is foamed in several stages so that an overly saturated layer of foam does not squeeze the extensions inside the doorway. The gap between the wall and the extension is filled with foam
They wait several hours and after the foam has hardened, cut off the excess with a knife. The use of foam during installation allows you to do without nails and screws

Installation without groove

If there is no special groove in the door frame, the extensions are attached end-to-end. Such installation requires very precise (up to a millimeter) measurements, careful adjustment of additional strips and special care during installation.

Measure the width of the slopes using the same method as when installing extensions in the groove.
Trim the additional strips to the required size. If there are extra millimeters left after sawing, they are cut off with a plane.
Edge tape is glued to the resulting sections. To do this, the edge is ironed with a hot iron, as a result of which the glue on the back side melts and the tape is firmly attached to the bar. The edge is glued using an iron
Thin nails are driven halfway into the ends of the extensions in increments of 20–25 cm. If additional glue is used, three nails are enough for the vertical extension and one (in the middle) for the horizontal.
Nail heads are bitten off at an angle to ensure a sharp end. Nails are hammered into the end of the extension and the heads are bitten off
Install the extensions in place - first the side strips, then the top. The vertical extension is pressed tightly at the bottom, slammed down and finished off with a hammer so that the nail fits into the door frame. Then they nail the middle, then the top. Make sure that there are no gaps between the panels and the box.
The upper horizontal bar is placed on the vertical ones, the right angle is checked and nailed with a hammer. After installing the extensions, the nails are not visible
The gaps between the wall and the extension are foamed in the same way as when installing the extensions in the groove.

Installation of platbands

After the extensions are installed and the mounting foam has dried, the trims are attached.

Measure the height of the side strips. To do this, add the width of the upper casing to the height of the doorway. The length of the vertical casing is calculated taking into account the width of the horizontal
The top of the right casing is filed at an angle of 45 degrees so that the edge of the plank that will be adjacent to the trim is shorter. A miter box will help you cut the casing at an angle of exactly 45 degrees.
Also at an angle of 45 degrees, but in a mirror image, the top of the left casing is filed down.
The excess length is sawed off from the trim.
The vertical trims are installed in place and each is attached to two nails - at the bottom and in the middle.
Apply the top casing and make markings. Marking is best done on site
Both ends of the casing are filed at an angle of 45 degrees using a miter box. The ends of the platband are filed in a mirror image
All three platbands are joined together and the vertical ones are nailed with 5–6 nails, and the horizontal ones with 2–3.

It is advisable to bite off the heads of the nails. So they will be almost invisible

If self-tapping screws are used instead of nails, then first drill a hole into which the head will sink. Then they are screwed in and the caps are closed with special plastic plugs.

At the bottom, the platbands reach the floor. No gap is left for the baseboard.

The plinth is only adjacent to the platband

Video: How to install extensions and platbands with a capital with your own hands

Installing extensions for interior doors yourself is not difficult, although the process cannot be called quick. But if everything is done correctly, the new door block will become the main decoration of the room.

In this article I want to tell you how to decorate a doorway. There are cases, for example in the kitchen, when instead of a door they decided to leave just an opening and somehow want to ennoble this place. There are several options:

1. MDF arch. Bought in store ready-made option arches and is simply installed in the same way as a door. Costs cost of the arch from 2500 rubles + 1 cylinder of mounting foam

2. Arch made of plasterboard (GKL). There are a lot of options for making an arch from gypsum plasterboard, the simplest one is something like this:

1. After preparing the opening: dismantling the door, trim, door block (in some cases the door block can be left as a base along the arch) You will need to prepare a metal frame for the arch. For the frame, gypsum board profiles are used, the size of the profiles can vary depending on the width and thickness of the arch.

2. The next step is preparing elements from gypsum board. The top part can be of any shape. but it is best to do it according to a pre-prepared template drawn on cardboard. To attach the inner upper curved end, you will need a strip of gypsum board, either pinned with a needle roller or cut on one side with a stationery knife across the width every couple of cm. And a strip of profile with stiffening ribs cut every 3-5 cm.

3. During the installation process, all sorts of irregularities may come out - this is not a big deal, then everything will be plastered and puttied.

4. After puttying, your arch is ready for finishing.

3. Arch made of MDF extensions with platbands. Perhaps the most profitable way to improve a door at the moment. In terms of finance, the cost is a set of accessories + platbands + a container of polyurethane foam. Time approximately 6 hours including drying of the foam.

1. The opening is prepared - the door, trim, and door block are removed (in some cases the door block can be left as a base along the arch)

2. Extensions, pre-cut (in large stores like Stroy Arsenal and others there is a machine for cutting MDF sheets, you can ask them to cut them to the desired width) to a width equal to the thickness of the wall, are installed in the opening on wedges under the level and are either expanded in the opening, or glued to the wall with paper tape and foamed with polyurethane foam.

3. After the foam has dried, the spacers and tape are removed. And all the protruding foam is trimmed and everything is puttied.

Using the same scheme, you can refine the iron front door

But in any case, these processes are quite labor-intensive and to obtain a guaranteed excellent result It's better to hire a professional for these jobs.

This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute detailed instructions for performing these works. If you need more detail, write in the comments - I will make another article in more detail for each individual arch with diagrams.

Finishing a doorway: how and with what to do it

Finishing doorways made of polyurethane

An interior door that separates a room from the rest of the house is not only a means of creating privacy in a room, but also the only way to provide it with proper sound insulation. Practicality is, of course, good. But many people don’t even realize that the decoration of openings: door, arched, or simply passages without doors, can be the very highlight that “makes” the interior.

Let’s not prevaricate by saying that a design similar to what we see in the photo is easy and simple to create: it requires some knowledge and skills, a harmonious perception of color, and a certain amount of imagination. We hope that the video in this article with the topic: “Technologies for finishing doorways” will help you thoroughly understand this issue in order to independently and efficiently carry out such work.

Finishing and decoration of door slopes and openings

The design option for the opening is selected depending on the appearance of the door being installed, the decoration of the adjacent walls, or taking into account the concepts of the architectural style, if one is taken as the basis for the design of the room.

It is clear that finishing a doorway with plastic panels will look harmonious only if the walls are sheathed with the same material - at least if it has plastic doors. In an apartment, this is usually a bathroom or balcony, or less often a kitchen.

Openings with doors

In rooms where door blocks are installed - and they are in most cases made of wood or MDF, the easiest way to cover the slopes is to use additional strips, which manufacturers always offer for the main product. If for some reason it was not possible to select planks of the desired shade, the slopes can simply be leveled and finished in the same style as the walls.

As a matter of fact, this is exactly what apartment owners do most often. In the absence of additional elements, the main decorative elements of the opening become door frames on one side, and plastic corners on the other side.

Do-it-yourself doorway finishing

The question: “How to decorate the doorway of the front door?” cannot be answered in a nutshell, because there are many more options for cladding. Cladding materials with a wood texture are best suited for this purpose. It looks good even when there is a metal door installed at the entrance - and if it is wooden, then sheet MDF, laminated chipboard, or even ordinary laminate flooring, correctly selected in color, are simply ideal for lining an opening.
At the entrance, you can also use additional strips, but due to the large width of the slope, this does not always work out - after all, the entrance door opening is located on load-bearing wall, the width of which can reach 67 cm (2.5 bricks).

Note! The interior space of apartments is zoned with partitions, the thickness of which varies between 40-120 mm. In such a situation, even extensions are not always necessary - the openings are usually completely blocked by the door frame. Their framing is done using platbands, matched to the door leaf in shade and texture, and does not require any additional finishing.

Free passages

It’s a completely different matter when the door is not installed in the opening at all. In this case, much more design possibilities open up - and especially when the passage is provided in a thick load-bearing wall.

This makes it possible to arrange side surfaces openings by analogy with columns: use wooden cladding Wall panels, polyurethane pilasters, decoratively plaster and edge them with a frieze, as shown in the example below.

In terms of aesthetics, a wide passage without doors always looks better in the interior - even if it has a simple rectangular shape. But it can also be an arch in the shape of a circle or semicircle, as well as a design with a more complex curved line or a pointed end.

Finishing arches of doorways

Curvilinear openings on interior walls can, of course, be provided for at the design stage and completed during the construction of the house. But most often, they are made from plasterboard, in the process of zoning and finishing of premises. Labor intensity of implementation plasterboard arch, compared to a similar brick structure, is much smaller - accordingly, its price is lower.
It is also important that you can do this work yourself - you only need step-by-step instruction, and it takes very little time. The absence of a door in the opening also has a number of practical advantages. In a small apartment, this simply saves space, which is already in short supply.

Interior option: plasterboard arch, foam columns

There is another plus: the through opening visually unites adjacent rooms. This is most relevant when they have a similar purpose: lobby-living room, kitchen-dining room, hall-corridor. In them, according to by and large, and there is no need to create a private environment, so doors are completely unnecessary here.

Rooms such as bedrooms, children's and teenagers' rooms, bathrooms, home theaters, or work rooms equipped in the house are a completely different matter - here you cannot do without doors. They need to be installed after the walls in the room have been leveled and the flooring has been laid. But the slopes should be sealed after installing the door frame.

Covering slopes with sheet material

Door slopes and through openings can be lined or sheathed with absolutely any material that is used in wall decoration. How to trim a doorway was discussed in general terms in the previous chapter.

Now we will look in more detail at those options that are quite possible to implement on your own without incurring large financial costs.

Plasterboard slopes: what is the advantage

What is good about additional trim strips is that they allow you to do without leveling and further finishing of slopes. But, as mentioned above, this is not always possible due to the discrepancy between their widths - and in terms of money it is quite expensive. In general, judging by the cost of the materials used, plaster slope is the cheapest.

Only this saving is eaten up by the need to purchase special tools: a cutting rule, a trowel, a grater, wide and narrow spatulas, which are unlikely to be found in the home of a person who has never done such work before.

Stone cladding of an arched doorway

For independent execution, this is the most difficult option, and hired craftsmen charge separate money for openings. Please also note that prices per linear meter of slope are usually higher than for plastering one square wall. So, if you want to get real savings, line the openings with drywall.

It is impossible to do without a plaster screed only if you plan to later line the opening with tiles or stone, which is what we see in the example presented above. Such finishing is carried out only on a base base - and it is leveled not with gypsum, but with cement plaster.

False slope made of gypsum plasterboard

To install sloped walls made of plasterboard (see Making door slopes from plasterboard), the only special tools you will need are a roughing and edge plane, which in total will cost a little more than 1,000 rubles. yes a knife with a reinforced blade. GKL sheets should be taken with a thinned edge, 12.5 mm thick, and a length that completely covers the height of the opening.

If the installation will be carried out using the adhesive method, the consumable materials you will need are universal gypsum putty, plaster corners and spacer dowels.

The blanks are cut and then adjusted by dry fitting, first on the sides of the slope. The strips should be solid, but you need to pay attention so that the thinner edge of the sheet is on the outer perimeter of the opening. This is only necessary so that the protective profile installed at the corners is flush with the surface of the plasterboard cladding element.

Plasterboard sheets with thinned edges, type UK

Fitting the parts is to prevent the formation of gaps between the workpiece and the door frame. Most often this happens due to the fact that the walls of the slope are somewhat turned to the sides. The gaps can be eliminated by trimming the edge of the part adjacent to the inner corner with a plane.
It will be possible to eliminate unevenness of the base base during the process of gluing the element, increasing, where necessary, the thickness of the gypsum putty. If there are any cracks on the rough slope, they must first be sealed with foam. But at the time of installation of the cladding, the foam must dry, and its protruding parts must be cut off.

Cutting the blank for the slope

When installing any plasterboard parts using a frameless method, putty not only prepares the surface for painting, but also uses it as glue. They apply it randomly to the wall, in small beads, and then install the cladding element. It is lightly pressed to the base, the excess putty squeezed out from under the drywall is taken away and distributed over the surface of the slope with a spatula.
Visually control the position of the slope part, the easiest way is to use a plaster rule, but in the absence of one, for this purpose you can use a flat strip or board, which must be attached to the outer corner of the slope. To prevent the facing element from slipping, it must be fixed to the base.

Finishing the entrance doorway using plasterboard

This is why expansion dowels are needed. The holes for them are drilled directly through the drywall, also randomly, in increments of 35-40 cm. The dowels are carefully inserted into the holes - at first not completely, after which the screws are screwed into them. With their help, you can also level the position of the plasterboard part: where necessary, press it harder, or vice versa, loosen it.
After the adhesive layer of putty has hardened, the dowel heads protruding outwards are completely hammered in with hammer blows. The cladding of the horizontal part of the opening begins after installing and securing the side slope walls.

When the entire perimeter of the opening is lined, you can begin installing the corner profile. Its only function is to protect the corner from mechanical damage. You will learn how to properly prepare an opening for subsequent painting by watching a video on this topic. It is best to install polyurethane trims on plasterboard openings using glue.

Wooden openings

Along with plasterboard sheathing, one of the most budget-friendly options for facing slopes is finishing doorways with chipboard.

Of course, chipboards with a laminated coating are more expensive than gypsum boards. But given the fact that when using them there is no need for finishing, in the end, this option turns out to be even more profitable.

Most often, laminated or veneered sheet material is used to finish the entrance opening. Since it has the greatest thickness, it is almost impossible to pick up additional parts there. In addition, the hallway usually contains cabinet furniture, which, together with the doorway, baseboards, or even wall cladding in the form of wooden panels, creates a single interior ensemble.

Painted doors and wall panels in interior design

If you use factory-decorated sheet material to cover the slopes, then the blanks for the slopes must be cut in such a way that the cuts end up in the inner corner, since its ends are already painted or covered with edging plastic. Most often they are covered by the casing, but sometimes they are still visible.
The finishing of doorways with MDF or laminated chipboard, in terms of the method of attaching the cladding elements to the base, is not too different from the same drywall. If the base is fairly level, these materials can also be installed using the adhesive method - only instead of putty, polyurethane foam is used here. If the opening is problematic, with differences and unevenness, the cladding is made using a frame constructed from an aluminum profile or wooden slats.
Each master selects the cladding technology himself, based on specific working conditions. The only difficulty for those who do not have professional tools may be installing the platband. There will be no problems with overlay strips, but they don’t look so good, because they have to be attached to the slope lining with nails.

Veneered MDF: doors, opening cladding and wall decoration in the office

Therefore, many people prefer to deal with telescopic platbands. They have an L-shape, the bend of which fits into the groove of the door frame or factory additional trim. If you undertake to make the extensions yourself, then the grooves for the telescopic trims need to be selected at their ends using a hand router.
This is done after the fittings and fitting of the blanks for the slope have been carried out. When adhesively installing elements made of rigid sheet material, which are MDF or chipboard, a slightly different procedure is followed. In this case, the horizontal part is installed first, and then the side posts.

The sidewalls support the upper cladding element and securely fix it in the desired position. Wooden wedges are inserted between the improvised extensions and the rough slope, and the space between them is foamed. When the facing of the slope is mounted on the sheathing, its cavity can be filled with insulation, which eliminates cold bridges and perfectly eliminates noise penetrating from the outside.

Sources:

An arch made of extensions and platbands is one of the ways to design entrance structures. You can handle the installation yourself without extensive preparation. You only need to select block parts that match the color and style of the interior. It is also better to prepare in advance the necessary equipment and materials for work.

Extensions and platbands: what are they needed for?

Extensions are special wooden, plastic or metal strips used to disguise door slopes. Installation of additional elements is provided in cases where the wall thickness exceeds the width of the box. Extensions are built into areas with a bare wall, extending the box of the entrance structure.

Important! Platbands hide the ends of the panels, cracks and seams between the wall and the door block. Plates with built-in cable channels are designed for wiring that can be hidden. Such elements are made of plastic and consist of two parts. The first is built into a wall or box beam, the second acts as a cover behind which the wires are located.

The color of the decorating parts is matched to the canvas and box. It is recommended to purchase all additional parts complete with the box in order to select the appropriate shade the first time.

Advantages

The main advantages of framing openings with extensions and platbands:

simple and economical installation technique;
emphasizes the status of the owner of the premises;
decorates the interior of any style;
During installation, liquid solutions are not used that have a detrimental effect on the door block;
This facing material helps to increase the service life of the entrance structure.

What will you need for finishing?

To finish a doorway, you need to have on hand a small repair kit consisting of the following tools:

roulette;
hammer;
construction square;
masking tape;
tape for framing the edges of the plank;
foam for installation;
electric saw or jigsaw;
saw with miter box;
fasteners in the form of liquid or regular nails and self-tapping screws;
ready-made or homemade boards.

If the plans are only to close the slopes without replacement door leaf, the following materials will be useful for making extensions:

wood boards;
pieces of wood fiber sheets (MDF);
several long chipboard strips;
plastic elements.

When cladding with natural wood, it is recommended to pre-treat the surface with a special impregnation. The antiseptic composition retains the properties of the material over many years of use.

Attention! In terms of external characteristics, resistance to moisture and temperature fluctuations, wood or MDF panels are more suitable for finishing external entrance openings. Indoor use of particle boards is allowed.

When installing plastic inserts, it is better to use panels with a metal base.

Finishing the opening with extensions

Masking elements are easier to install in grooves. To do this, at the stage of purchasing the box, you need to pay attention to the presence of ready-made holes into which the additional strip is pushed.

If there are no grooves, more scrupulous work or qualified assistance will be required. In such cases, the boards are fastened tightly to the nearest millimeter. The planks are adjusted to one another and built in as carefully as possible.

Into the groove

The arch made of extensions is mounted in several stages. Installation of inserts is carried out after fixing the box to the wall.

Step by step description installation work:

Carefully measure the distance from the box to the edge of the opening.
The width of the additional element is determined as the sum of measurements of the width of the slope and the depth of the groove.
Additional strips are specially purchased in slightly larger sizes in order to adjust the width of the element to fit required sizes during the installation process.
The planks are built into the grooves.
When assembling telescopic elements, the structure is fixed with liquid nails or adhesive. The parts are connected by deepening the tenons into the grooves.
The horizontal bar is attached to the side ones at a right angle, forming a U-shaped structure. For accuracy of work use duct tape for fixing parts.
Before filling the gaps with foam, temporary spacers are installed between the planks to prevent the extensions from being squeezed into the passage.
Excess foam is removed after complete drying.

Important: each slope is measured separately in at least four places.

Without groove

In the absence of grooved holes, a portal made from additional parts is made in the following order:

Adjustment of planks based on measurements.
The edges must be treated with edge tape. The side with glue is placed on the edge of the plank and ironed.
At the ends of the elements, nails are driven half the length with the same distance between them. The caps need to be bitten off, forming sharp ends. If you plan to strengthen the block with glue, three fastenings on the side planks and a central one for the top are sufficient.
The horizontal extensions should be installed first, then the vertical ones. After driving in the elements, you need to make sure that there are no gaps in the resulting structure.
Gaps in the opening are eliminated with foam.

Finishing the opening with platbands

You can begin attaching the platbands after the foam between the frame and the wall has dried.

To calculate the length of the side trims, you need to add the measurements of the width of the top to the height of the box. The upper parts are filed using a miter box (45 degree angle). The platbands are secured with nails at the bottom and in the middle.

The edges of the vertical board are also formed at an angle for the joint. To do this, you need to attach the platband to the attachment point and apply markings for filing. Next, all the platbands are joined, secured with nails, and then the caps are removed in order to hide the fasteners as much as possible.

If you use self-tapping screws, you will need to pre-drill recesses for the caps. The twisted screws are hidden under plastic plugs.

Installation of telescopic parts is carried out using a comb built into the grooves on the extension. To strengthen the joints between the parts of the block, glue is applied. The lower part of the platbands rests on the floor and connects with the baseboard on the side.

In most cases, you can install an arch from additional panels and platbands with your own hands. If structural elements are purchased separately, some points should be taken into account:

Before starting installation work, it is recommended to level the wall.
Don't skimp on buying edge tape. Installation errors will not be noticeable on the machined edges.
Edged ends protect the material from deformation in rooms with increased level humidity.
It is better to purchase telescopic parts ready-made. For self-made special equipment will be required.
Aluminum trims are fastened with self-tapping screws.
If there is a metal door, all elements are attached by welding.
A layer of insulation can be placed in the gaps between homemade additional boards and the wall. This layer improves thermal insulation properties and prevents penetration extraneous sounds.
You can achieve sealing of the slopes using silicone inserts in the grooves of the box beams.
IN metal structures For installation of the extension, plasterboard sheets are used.

Important: the thickness of the additional boards should not exceed the width of the grooves of the box.

Finishing doorways with extensions and platbands completes the framing of the opening for both entrance and interior doors. Additional elements give a finished look to the entire door structure.

The correct design of a doorway can highlight the interior and add zest to it. Therefore, when creating such structures, designers often resort to the most unexpected tricks. In order for the selected finish to fit harmoniously into the design of the room, it is important to clearly understand the best way to highlight this part.

The concept of a doorway, extension and platband

Regardless of the type of structure, doors are required to enter it, as well as for communication between its rooms, which are usually installed in doorways. At the same time, to create a presentable appearance of the entrance structure and to treat the slopes, it is necessary to use extensions and platbands. Additions are panels that are designed to fill the missing width of the box and mask the slopes in the opening. Such products are attached to the frame and fill the space that is formed between the door frame and the other side of the wall. To complete the complex finishing of the wall, platbands are used. The immediate task of such elements is to frame and create a holistic design.

Advantages of interior openings without and with doors

In the table we consider the features of each option.

Options for finishing a doorway without extensions, trim and doors

Often the opening is finished without installing a door leaf. This design move allows you to simultaneously erase the boundaries between rooms and at the same time visually make the room more spacious. To create a reliable and effective interior design without doors, it is not necessary to be guided by standard options.

To design an interior doorway, you can use any material used for finishing walls and slopes.

In this case, decoration can be done using the following materials:

drywall;
clinker tiles;
decorative rock;
siding;
plastic panels;
textile.

To improve the internal perception of the interior, arched structures are often used. Moreover, if the room has standard ceilings, then arches with slight curves will look better here. It is better to decorate an interior passage without extensions and platbands in houses with high ceilings with classic arches in a non-standard design: trapezoidal, elliptical and asymmetrical. You can decorate the slopes with brick, wood, stucco, plaster relief overlays, sandstone or artificial stone.

Framing slopes with plasterboard

The option of decorating slopes with plasterboard is simple and budget-friendly. This material is easy to process and does not require a large amount of preparatory work. Drywall has good adhesion, has a long service life and looks great on the wall.

The design with plasterboard is laconic

Decoration with clinker tiles

Due to the variety of colors and ease of use, clinker tiles are often used for wall decoration. It is convenient to tile the corners of doorways without platbands or extensions. This option is suitable for designing rectangular, arched and semi-arched structures.

Tiles give the room a special style

Decorating a doorway with stone

In the interior space, decorative stone allows you to hide all the imperfections of the wall, as well as transform the interior. The material is highly resistant to external influences, durable and has excellent aesthetic properties.

Thanks to the use of stone, the entrance structure becomes more interesting

Plastic panels

Using plastic, you can imitate the appearance and texture of natural stone, wood and expensive materials. Framing a wall with plastic can visually increase the size of the interior passage and ceilings. Cladding in this way can be done independently.

Plastic can imitate expensive materials

Siding finishing

Due to the textured surface, lining the doorway with siding looks advantageous in any interior. This material is distinguished by a variety of models and colors, ease of care and installation.

The textured surface of the siding fits perfectly into any interior

Use of textiles

For decoration interior designs Expensive and dense textiles can be used. This technique helps to hide the opening, distract attention and lighten the space a little. In this case, the textile fabric can be of any type, the main thing is that it ultimately harmonizes with the overall style of the room.

Finishing a doorway with a door

For some rooms, a clear delineation of space is very important. Therefore, it is customary to leave doors in them. When choosing the option of designing such a passage without additional panels and platbands, the designs should be selected in accordance with the color and texture of the door leaf. For this the following can be used:

blinds;
ceramic tile;
tree;
laminate;

Shutter doors

This idea has a double practicality. Firstly, shutter doors are very original, and often cheaper than standard doors. Secondly, the slats from the blinds can be used to decorate the doorway, which gives the entire structure a unified style.

Blinds in the opening add lightness and airiness

Ceramic tile finishing

Tiles have a number of advantages, such as ease of maintenance, a large selection of colors and patterns, and durability.

The most important - beautifully trim and join the edges, for which you will need a special tool.

Tiles are the most practical option

Wood - timeless classic

If you want your opening to look classic, and at the same time you are for naturalness, then wood is your choice.

Natural wood adds warmth and suits many design styles

Laminate - looks expensive

If you want something custom, durable and practical, laminate is a great choice. It is as easy to install as regular extensions with platbands, but it looks much more expensive.

Suitable for both interior and entrance openings

If you decide to decorate the opening with your own hands, find out how to interior decoration doors.

More details about decorating a doorway will be discussed in the video:

Replacing an entrance door today represents a whole range of work. And this requires additional elements such as extensions and platbands. And if earlier the slopes were finished with cement mortar and paint, today such a design move is no longer used. The installation of extensions on the front door followed by framing with platbands came to the fore.

Accessories for door frames

New material, which is additional material, appeared not so long ago. But it’s hard to imagine a modern doorway without it. Therefore, you should get to know him better.

Purpose

Why do you need an extension for the door block? This element is intended to decorate the opening after installation of the box. The fact is that when producing boxed bars, manufacturers adhere to a standard width size. And it is somewhat less than the depth of the doorway where it will take its place. And to make the frame frame look more natural, the free space is complemented special panels, which are called additional.

The extensions are designed for lining the slopes of deep doorways

Varieties

Depending on the design project, the following types of additions can be used:

Wooden;
Metal.

The most common are products made from MDF, which are most often found both on the shelves of hardware stores and in the apartments of citizens, thus covering the nondescript slope of the doorway. The next most popular are wood products, and only then only the metal type of accessories.

Extensions with MDF trim

Polyvinyl chloride panels have become no less popular. These products are easy to use and maintain, so they are increasingly used to frame doorways.

In addition to the material of manufacture, slope framing can be divided into three more categories:

With missing edge;
With existing edge;
Telescopic view.

Edge options

The edges of the first type of trim are not processed, but represent the simplest evenly cut edges. They are closed with platbands installed on top of the ends of this product. The disadvantage of using extensions that do not have cladding is their potential fragility due to the penetration of water vapor into the product.

The edge extension has the appropriate processing. This type is much better protected from moisture penetration. Some inconvenience associated with trim that has processed edges is the need to select the exact size in width. If this is not done, then the edge will have to be cut, which will automatically deprive it of all its advantages.

Telescopic extensions are distinguished by the presence of a machined groove and ridge on the side parts. If it is necessary to close a wider slope, you only need to take another product and connect it to another. Some differences in width can also be easily eliminated by simply moving two parts apart without losing the attractive appearance. Thus, the decorative element frames the doorway, making it complete and beautiful.

How to make extras with your own hands?

If you couldn’t buy a set of extensions along with the door block, then you can always make this element yourself. And in the case of finishing a house with wood, such a solution will be optimal.

To perform the work, you can choose ordinary planed boards with a thickness of no more than 20 mm. The width is selected based on the depth of the doorway. To eliminate the option of warping, which constantly haunts natural wood, you can use an MDF or PVC panel. Such materials are well suited for finishing the entrance door opening both outside and inside.

The width of the extension depends on the depth of the doorway

Often the panels used have a tongue and groove design. To keep them out of the way, cut off the excess with a jigsaw or hand-held circular saw. For soft material, use a chisel, which can easily remove any ridge. The cut side should be processed to give it the appropriate appearance for joining with the platband. The wood is planed with a plane or router, and the PVC panels are simply cut evenly with a stationery knife.

You can put insulation under the homemade addition, for example, mineral wool. This will relieve apartment owners from extraneous sounds coming from landing. This insulation perfectly blocks noise, so using it to finish a doorway would be the right decision. In addition to the absence of extraneous sounds, the use of mineral wool will make the front door warmer, because there will be no drafts or cold bridges.

The stain preserves the structure of the wood

Methods for installing extensions on the front door

Finishing the doorway of the front door can occur in three ways:

due to the door frame;
installed on the wall of the opening itself;
mounted on a special frame.

In most cases, installation of an additional board involves the use of a special groove selected on a box beam. And the main fastening material here is “liquid” nails. Due to the fact that the extension does not bear a load, adhesive fastening will be quite sufficient.

An alternative to “liquid” nails are self-tapping screws. They are twisted into a decorative element on the front side. But if it is not hidden with an appropriate overlay, then the appearance of such a finish will not be entirely attractive. In rare cases, nails with a decorative head are used for fastening. But this option requires an appropriate interior design of the hallway.

Installation of extensions is carried out using liquid nails or self-tapping screws

Whichever installation method is chosen, the following actions will be performed:

Two side blanks of the same size are cut;
Mounted on the side slopes of the opening;
The top blank is cut out;
Installed between the side elements.

This algorithm can be performed in the opposite direction, when the trim of the front door opening starts from the top element. In this case, the side extensions should take a position between the floor and top bar. But at any joint, installation is carried out only from the side elements. This is the most correct and convenient option.

To make the slopes as airtight as possible, silicone sealant is placed in the groove on the box beam. Next, an extension is inserted into it, secured in one of the listed ways. This ensures that there is no air movement through the joints between the workpieces and the door block.

What to do if there is no groove

Finishing slopes with extensions can be done not only if there is a special groove in the box. This causes some inconvenience in terms of creating a clear and even outline of the opening. But even in this case, you can achieve the desired result.

To carry out work on installing extensions on a box without a groove, you must:

measure the depth of the doorway from the edge to the frame beam;
cut wooden blanks for the frame;
install the frame using bars, a building level and self-tapping screws;
secure the extensions to the frame using mounting adhesive, screws or nails.

According to this plan, you can carry out future work and get a smooth and beautifully designed doorway.

Accessories for metal doors

Recently, the installation of metal entrance doors has become extremely popular. These blocks do not have a special groove for installing extensions, although there is a clear need for them due to the minimum width of the iron box. And this is where drywall comes to the rescue.

Extensions on a metal door are installed using plasterboard

To install extensions in an opening with a metal entrance door, it is necessary to cut strips whose length is equal to the depth of the slopes. The number of parts depends on the height of the box beam. The installation frequency should not exceed 30 cm, which makes it possible to give the finish proper strength. The planks are glued to the wall with glue. If necessary, an additional one is attached to one part so that the level of the walls exactly matches the contour of the door block.

When the original frame is ready, installation of the extensions begins. Any materials that are available to the apartment owner are suitable for the work. Additional strips are attached using mounting adhesive, applied to the inner surface of each element. Upon completion of the work, it is necessary to install platbands on the new metal entrance door.

Platbands on the front door

If the extensions are a continuation of the box, filling the slope of the opening, then its completion can be called the platband. There is also a large selection here.

Purpose and varieties

The immediate task facing such an element as the platband is to frame the doorway. These interior elements are decorated with them. Modern door frames can be divided into the following categories:

flat;
rounded;
curly.

The first option allows docking in any form. But rounded and figured platbands can only be sawn at an angle of 45 degrees. In this case, it is necessary to have a special device called a miter box.

Curly trims are sawed at an angle of 45 degrees

In addition to the shape, platbands can be divided into:

Monolithic;
With built-in cable channel.

The use of monolithic elements can be considered a classic option for framing doorways. But cable channels began to be placed in platbands in order to “hide” excess wires from prying eyes. These structural elements are made of PVC and consist of two parts. One is attached to a wall or box, and the other serves as a decorative cover that covers the wires laid inside.

Methods for installing trim on the front door.

Platbands according to the method of fastening can be divided into:

Invoices;
Telescopic.

Overhead trims are installed using fasteners, and telescopic ones using a comb

The first method involves fastening the elements using nails driven through the body of the platband into a box or wall. Other types of fasteners can also be used, which will be hidden under the decorative element.

Telescopic platbands are installed using a special comb inserted into a groove on the extension or additional strip. In this case, you can use glue to firmly fix the part in its place.

WITH outside The design of the entrance door must have a casing that protects the installation gaps (between the frame and the wall) and fixes the door with an anchor. There is no such structure on the inside of the front door. Therefore, for the internal slopes of the doorway, it is required Finishing work. This can be plaster with further putty, painting or wallpaper. In this case, “wet” and “dirty” types of work are carried out. All this can be avoided! We are ready to offer you a convenient and practical option for finishing the slopes, which will also improve the heat and sound insulation of the entrance area as a whole.

We offer the design of doorway slopes with decorative trims and platbands.

Extensions and trims are elements of decorative finishing of a doorway that give a finished appearance entrance group, where the main element is the front door. It is especially worth noting that the material of the extensions and platbands fully corresponds to the material from which the door panel is made. The color and design of the extensions with platbands also matches the color and design of the panel. The combination of a decorative panel with such finishing of slopes can match other interior items of the room, making your hallway stylish and aesthetically pleasing.

Benefits of extras:- simplicity and ease of installation
- no “dirty” processes during installation
- increasing the level of heat and sound insulation of the door group
- excellent decorative qualities
- use of only high quality materials
- the possibility of decorating the doorway with weather-resistant and water-resistant materials
- high degree of maintainability, the ability to repair only the damaged area
- practicality and durability.

Most often there are two options for decorating the opening with extensions and platbands:

1. Installation of trims and trims after the installation of the door (at the time of completion of the general renovation of the premises). You can order the production of trims and trims when ordering the entrance door, and install them later on your own. You can also order from our company the production of trims and trims with installation in any time convenient for you.

2. Installation of extensions and platbands simultaneously with the installation of the front door. This option is in demand mainly if the front door is installed in a room where there are no plans to renovate it in the near future.

When ordering extensions and trim with installation, we offer the original “Quick Slopes” system, which was developed by the engineers of our design bureau in order to most efficiently and reliably connect the steel frame of the entrance door and the wooden extensions for the decorative finishing of the slopes (see the installation diagram in the figure). For normal installation, ensure high quality the junction is very difficult. The company's many years of experience and a team of qualified specialists allow us to responsibly guarantee the high level of work and services we perform!

Internal decorative panel

Door frame

U-shaped profile, painted in the color of the frame

Regardless of the type of structure, doors are required to enter it, as well as for communication between its rooms, which are usually installed in doorways. At the same time, to create a presentable appearance of the entrance structure and to treat the slopes, it is necessary to use extensions and platbands. They are panels that are designed to fill the missing width of the box and mask the slopes in the opening. Such products are attached to the frame and fill the space that is formed between the door frame and the other side of the wall. To complete the complex finishing of the wall, platbands are used. The immediate task of such elements is to frame and create a holistic design.

Advantages of interior openings without and with doors

In the table we consider the features of each option.

Opening without a door	Opening with a door
More space	Noise insulation
The visual effect of separating the rooms still remains	Thermal insulation
More light	Possibility to install a lock if necessary
Suitable for small spaces	Possibility to choose the option of doors with glass or plastic inserts for greater “lightness”
Frees up space for furniture
Can be decorated in an original way

Options for finishing a doorway without extensions, trim and doors

To design an interior doorway, you can use any material used for finishing walls and slopes.

In this case, decoration can be done using the following materials:

drywall;
clinker tiles;
decorative rock;
siding;
plastic panels;
textile.

To improve the internal perception of the interior, arched structures are often used. At the same time, if the room has standard ceilings, then arches with slight curves will look better here. It is better to decorate an interior passage without extensions and platbands in houses with high ceilings with classic arches in a non-standard design: trapezoidal, elliptical and asymmetrical. You can decorate the slopes with brick, wood, stucco, plaster relief overlays, sandstone or artificial stone.

Framing slopes with plasterboard

The option of decorating slopes with plasterboard is simple and budget-friendly. This material is easy to process and does not require a large amount of preparatory work. It has good adhesion, has a long service life and looks great on the wall.

The design with plasterboard is laconic

Decoration with clinker tiles

Due to the variety of colors and ease of use, clinker tiles are often used for wall decoration. It is convenient to tile the corners of doorways without platbands or extensions. This option is suitable for designing rectangular, arched and semi-arched structures.

Tiles give the room a special style

Decorating a doorway with stone

Thanks to the use of stone, the entrance structure becomes more interesting

Plastic panels

Plastic can imitate expensive materials

Siding finishing

Due to the textured surface, lining the doorway with siding looks advantageous in any interior. This material is distinguished by a variety of models and colors, ease of care and installation.

The textured surface of the siding fits perfectly into any interior

Use of textiles

Expensive and dense textiles can be used to decorate interior structures. This technique helps to hide the opening, distract attention and lighten the space a little. In this case, the textile fabric can be of any type, the main thing is that it ultimately harmonizes with the overall style of the room.

Finishing a doorway with a door

blinds;
ceramic tile;
tree;
laminate;

Shutter doors

Blinds in the opening add lightness and airiness

Ceramic tile finishing

Tiles have a number of advantages, such as ease of maintenance, a large selection of colors and patterns, and durability.

The most important - beautifully trim and join the edges, for which you will need a special tool.

Tiles are the most practical option

Wood - an eternal classic

If you want your opening to look classic, and at the same time you are for naturalness, then wood is your choice.

Natural wood adds warmth and suits many design styles

Laminate - looks expensive

If you want something custom, durable and practical, laminate is a great choice. It is as easy to install as regular extensions with platbands, but it looks much more expensive.

What are extras?

Measuring and preparatory work

Installation

Self-tapping installation

Installation on studs

Installation on foam

Installation of telescopic extensions

Comes with box

Additional board (extension) for the door frame: purpose, types, installation

What is dobor

Materials and sizes

Types of additions

How to install extensions on an interior door

We take measurements and make blanks

We collect

Installation in a door frame

Fastening the additional box

How to attach the extension to the door frame if it is thicker than the selected quarter

How to install extensions: installation tricks

Accessories for interior doors: what they look like and what they are needed for

Benefits of use

Required tools and materials

Installation of additional strips

Installation in groove

Installation without groove

Installation of platbands

Video: How to install extensions and platbands with a capital with your own hands

Installation of door trim and trim

Installation of the extension

Cashing installation

We install door panels in different ways

If the door is slanted

Tools and accessories

Door installation process

Knocking out the base plane

What to do if the walls are sloped

Foam blowing

Immediately with the box

Finished door and straight slopes

If there is no quarter and with inclined walls

Slopes with slope

Interior doors

Steel doors

Stacked accessories

1. Open doorway – a design move or a necessity?

2. Advantages and disadvantages of doorless doors

3. Choosing the shape of the opening depending on the style of the interior

12. Decorative finishing with natural or artificial stone

13. Arch instead of the usual “rectangle”

15. Decorating a doorway using textiles

Accessories for interior doors: what they look like and what they are needed for

Benefits of use

Required tools and materials

Installation of additional strips

Installation in groove

Installation without groove

Installation of platbands

Video: How to install extensions and platbands with a capital with your own hands

Finishing a doorway: how and with what to do it

Finishing and decoration of door slopes and openings

Openings with doors

Free passages

Covering slopes with sheet material

Plasterboard slopes: what is the advantage

False slope made of gypsum plasterboard

Wooden openings

Extensions and platbands: what are they needed for?

Advantages

What will you need for finishing?

Finishing the opening with extensions

Into the groove

Without groove

Finishing the opening with platbands

The concept of a doorway, extension and platband

Advantages of interior openings without and with doors

Options for finishing a doorway without extensions, trim and doors

Framing slopes with plasterboard

Decoration with clinker tiles

Decorating a doorway with stone

Plastic panels