Do-it-yourself spit for a well. We make a gate for a well with our own hands. Making an ergonomic handle


Usually the gate - the main part of the well house - is made in a standard way, placing a piece of log with a handle on the axle. Andrey Burkov implemented his own design.

Nowadays it is an indispensable attribute of a summer cottage. At my dacha, I entrusted specialists with digging it and installing rings, but the so-called well house, which the “diggers” offer, did not suit me with its simple appearance. I wanted something more original.

It all started with design. Sketched general form, decided on the design (Fig. 1). But I thought about how the gate would be constructed. Image purchased product in the form of a log and a “poker” driven into it was somehow not inspiring. That's why I decided to gate.


Rice. 1. Well house project.

Gate design

My gate is a cylinder assembled from the following main parts (Fig. 2): 5 disk-shaped ribs, 14 strips, 2 M16 studs. There is also a leash and a handle. I cut the ribs according to a template from a 32 mm thick wood slab. Cardboard template - an equilateral polygon with 14 sides, cut from a circle Ø 200 mm. The length of each edge is 44 mm. A 15 mm hole was made in the center of the ribs. Dimensions of each plank: 1,000x44x20 mm. The leash and handle are made from hardwood: the leash is from an oak strip, and the handle is from the cylindrical beech leg of an old broken stool. You also need M16 nuts - 12 pieces, washers - 12 pieces, an M8 axle for the handles and 2 self-locking M8 nuts.

Gate assembly

We begin assembly by screwing the planks to the ribs using 4x50 mm galvanized screws and PVA glue. We do not install the last three strips yet to provide access to the inside of the cylinder. Then we fix the 445 mm long pin axis on one side of the cylinder in the holes of the ribs. We screw it in using two M16 nuts at the end of the stud, screwed to the locking position, to grip it.


As soon as we pass the outer edge, we put a washer on the axle, screw on two M16 nuts and put on another washer. Next, we screw in the axle and go through the second rib. We put on the washer and screw on the nut. Unlock the nuts at the end of the stud and remove the end one. Tighten the nuts on both sides of the ribs until they stop. Before tightening them, apply epoxy glue for locking on the washers and threads in the area where the nuts are located.

The second axis, 532 mm long, must be installed when installing the gate on the racks of the well house, having previously secured the leash and handle. The leash has two holes - 15 mm and 8 mm in diameter. We screw the nut onto the axle, put on the washer, screw the driver through the Ø 15 mm hole, put on the washer again and screw on the nut. We tighten the nuts on both sides of the leash, not forgetting about the epoxy.

In the second hole (Ø 8 mm) of the leash we place an M8 stud axle, put a handle on the axle and screw self-locking nuts on both sides of the axle. We screw the nuts so that the handle rotates freely on the axis.

What else is to come

I haven’t built the house over the well yet. Therefore, in the photo of the gate it is in assembled transport form. Installation on the roof posts of the house is assumed in the following sequence. Holes for the bushings must be made in the racks at a height sufficient to manipulate the bucket between the well cover and the collar.

On one rack the hole is blind, on the second it is through. You will need to hammer the bushings into them. The holes must be made in such a way as to prevent the bushings from turning in the future, that is, install them with interference. For reliability, you can drill holes in the racks on the side, going through the bushing, and then hammer in a thick nail as a pin, which prevents the bushings from turning during operation. Insert the end of the pin axle, already installed on the gate, into the bushing fixed in the blind hole. In order not to hold it suspended, we will use a stand of a suitable height. We insert the second pin with a leash, a handle and a washer into the bushing of the through hole of the rack. Having passed the rack, we put on another washer, screw on 3 nuts and put on the washer again.


Rice. 2. Gate design.

Align the end of the axle with the hole in the end rib of the gate. We twist the axle by the handle, holding the gate. While working, put on the necessary washers and screw on the nuts. (Fig. 2). Tighten all the nuts. Two nuts between the collar and through hole in the rack we tighten it to the locking position so that the axle rotates freely in the bushing. These nuts prevent the axle from jumping out of the blind hole in the post when the gate rotates.

Let's install the last three slats of the gate (without glue) and the eye under the carabiner of the cable or chain for the bucket. The gate can be painted with any composition for exterior woodwork.

Among the advantages of this design, we can note the maintainability and ease of installation of the gate between already mounted roof racks.

Since ancient times, man has used a well to obtain water. This hydraulic structure allowed people to use groundwater for their needs. The design of a well is quite simple, and a modern well is built according to the same principle as man did 100 years ago.

Many summer residents, having a centralized water supply, dig a well on their property, since the water from it is much tastier. In addition, it will come in handy during water shortages.

First, the shaft was dug to the level groundwater, its walls were fixed, and a structure for raising water was built on the ground part of the well.

In the modern world, wells have been replaced by centralized water supply lines. But the residents rural areas, as well as people who own a summer cottage, often do not refuse to use a well. This is because well water tastes better. It is also a backup option, since the main line may fail, which could result in being left without water for a long time. In any case, a well in a dacha is a necessary thing. You can hire specialists and they will completely build the well, but most build it with their own hands.

Construction of a well shaft

If the owner of the dacha decided to do it with his own hands, then first you need to do it. It should be located at a distance from the house and toilet, and also at a distance from the garden, which is summer period watered.

Having decided on the location, they begin to dig the mine. If the depth of the mine does not exceed 6 m, then you can dig it yourself. And if greater depth is expected, then it is better to contact specialists. The principle of their strengthening depends on what will be used to strengthen the walls of the shaft.

Concrete rings are the most common when strengthening walls. Rings with an internal diameter of up to 1.1 m are relatively lightweight, so you can install them yourself, without using a crane. It is advisable to install them as the mine deepens. And when using wooden shaft walls, they are installed after the shaft has already been dug. To prevent the rise of silt, a layer of sand and gravel is poured onto the bottom.

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Surface cladding

After equipping the mine, they begin to arrange the surface part. There are many options for finishing this part, and it can be made from a variety of materials.

The main component of the finishing work on the above-ground part is the lining of the well, a cover to close the shaft and a mechanism to ensure the rise of water. Often the owner of the dacha performs these works with his own hands, and appearance depends on his imagination.

The most common material for sheathing is wood. For this you can use boards or logs. In the case of boards, this is a simpler option. The well ring is surrounded by boards around its entire circumference. The lower part of the boards is dug into the ground, and the upper part is secured using the base of the cover. This type of cladding is easy to make, but the aesthetic appearance leaves much to be desired.

If logs are used for cladding, the appearance is much better. The logs are installed according to the log house principle, which is why the ground part has square shape, to which the base of the covering is attached. To further insulate the ground part, you can between concrete ring and lay insulation on the sheathing.

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Crane lifting mechanism

Types of lifting mechanisms for the “Crane” well.

"Crane" is simple mechanism, which is easy to do with your own hands. It is based on a lever with different arms. The lever is made entirely of wood. It consists of several components. At a certain distance from the well, a wooden pole is buried in the ground, at the end of which there is a stag. A long straight pole is inserted into this stag, taking into account the length of the arm from the axis. An additional weight is attached to the short arm, which will make it easier to lift a bucket of water from the well. Accordingly, a chain with a bucket is attached to the end of the long arm. When constructing this structure, it is important to correctly calculate the ratio of the pole arms and carry out balancing.

The “Crane” is a rather bulky structure, so summer cottage it is built quite rarely.

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Gate lift mechanism

Most often, a gate is used to lift water.

The gate is a cylinder fixed to an axis and upon which, when rotated, a chain with a bucket attached to it is wound.

The gate is located above the shaft.

This mechanism consists of 2 racks, fixed along the edge of the ground part, a cylindrical part with axes, for installing it on the racks. You can make these components with your own hands. You don’t need any special materials or tools; everything can be found at the dacha.

First you need to decide what the mechanism will be made of. It can be made entirely of wood or metal, or you can use both materials during construction.

The gate mechanism is also simple, and you can make it yourself. To do this you will need:

  • wooden deck;
  • 2 wooden beams 200×200 mm or 2 channels;
  • metal rod;
  • metal sheet 50×50 cm and 3 mm thick;
  • drill;
  • welding machine;
  • emery or grinder;
  • nails;
  • ruler and tape measure;
  • pencil;
  • compass.

Construction of a gate for a well. Materials and step-by-step instruction for making a classic device. Procedures that extend its service life.

The content of the article:

A well gate is an ancient device for manually raising water from a source. Currently, it is often used as a backup device, replacing the electric pump during its forced stop. All the basic information on how to make a gate for a well with your own hands can be taken from this article.

Gate design features


The gate is made of wood or metal cylinder with a chain and a bucket, mounted on racks above the source shaft. It is driven manually through a lever that creates torque to lift the water container.

A similar mechanism has been used in wells for a long time; its design has remained virtually unchanged for many centuries. Today, the product is used in areas where there are no electrical networks nearby, or as a backup option in case of breakdown of water supply units.

The main part of the product is often made of logs with a diameter of 150-250 mm, into the ends of which pins with a diameter of 30-35 mm are driven in for fixation in the supports. One of the axes is long and curved and is used as a handle to rotate the structure. On the log itself there is a place for attaching a chain or rope.

The product is installed with axes in specially prepared places. The supports have different designs, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. The information given in the table will help you evaluate their qualities:

Type of supportAdvantagesFlaws
Holes in racksEase of manufacture; does not require special precision in the diameter and location of holes; no additional costs.Material depletion appears; The axle must be constantly lubricated.
Plastic bushings on axlesThey have a long service life; do not corrode; the material is harmless to people; have high wear resistance; the gate rotates smoothly and silently; Axle lubrication is not required.Accuracy is required in making holes in the racks and their location in the same axis; the rods must be sanded.
Bearing unitThe design makes it much easier
the water rises, rotation becomes especially easy.
The costs of manufacturing parts of the support assembly are added with high accuracy; Requires moisture protection and constant lubrication
bearings.

A well gate can be made from a piece of pipe with capped ends. The axles are welded to the plugs. Instead of a pipe, a wheel rim is often used, through which a metal axle is threaded. Sometimes the cylinder is a rack-and-pinion structure in which the bars rest on wooden disks cut from a log.

The handle for rotation does not have to be made curved; it can be designed in a non-standard way, for example, fastening a marine steering wheel or a shut-off valve flywheel to the cylindrical part using a key. Another option: four holes are made in the log, perpendicular to the axis, evenly around the circumference, into which levers are inserted - pins, tubes, etc. This design is called a four-finger collar.

The effectiveness of the device depends on the following characteristics:

  • Cylinder diameter. Affects the number of revolutions that must be made to lift the bucket to the surface. The larger it is, the fewer rotations.
  • Handle radius. Affects the force applied to lift a bucket of water. The long lever makes it easier to rotate the device.
To manufacture the product, it is recommended to formalize all the requirements in the form of a drawing of a gate for a well.

How to make a gate for a well

Let's look at the technology for creating the simplest wooden fixture. To get a good result, it is enough to follow the recommendations given in our article.

Installation of gate posts


Before making a gate for a well, consider how to attach it above the shaft. If there is a canopy or house, additional racks will not be required for this; the structure will rest on finished parts. If there are no superstructures, you will need beams with a cross section of 20x20 cm or metal channels. The length of the workpieces should allow them to be dug into the ground at least 1 m, while the gate should rotate freely and the bucket should be easily removed from the shaft.

The convenience of lifting a bucket above the shaft depends on the protrusion of the head above the ground. Its height must be at least 70 cm. Otherwise, you will have to bend over to get the bucket, which is inconvenient to use. Bury the pillars near the well in diametrically opposite places, having previously treated the underground part with means to protect it from moisture.

To extend the service life of the racks, it is recommended to attach them to the above-ground part of the well. To do this, make holes in the rings to secure the beams with bolts and nuts. It is advisable to build a house for the well along with the stands, protecting the mechanism from various natural phenomena.

Manufacturing the cylindrical part of the gate


The option of creating a gate for a well with your own hands from a log is considered the most economical and easiest to implement.

The work is performed as follows:

  1. Prepare a log with a diameter of 150-250 mm, cut a piece from it, the length of which is 100-150 mm less than the distance between the posts.
  2. Clean the workpiece from the bark.
  3. Level the surface of the log using an ax and plane.
  4. Sand the surface with sandpaper.
  5. Treat the log with special products to protect it from moisture and rot.
  6. Make metal clamps 6-8 cm wide and secure them along the edges of the cut. They will not allow the product to crack. Instead of clamps, you can use a pipe whose internal diameter is equal to the outer diameter of the log or 1-2 mm less. Using a grinder, cut two rings from a pipe 6-8 cm wide and hammer the gate into the ends.
  7. Determine the length of the short and long pins on which the log will rotate. The size of the short axis should take into account the depth of its driving into the end of the deck (if such a fastening method is provided), the distance between the log and the stand, and the thickness of the support. The long pin is used not only to fix the gate in a horizontal plane, but also to rotate it. The rod will need to be bent twice so that the gate axis and a handle for turning it appear.
  8. Squeeze one edge of each rod so that they clog easily. Also, the flat shape will not allow it to turn in the log. Typically, a rod 120 cm long and 30-35 mm in diameter is used for axles. It is cut into 2 parts: 20 cm goes to the axle, 100 cm to the handle.
  9. Make holes 12-15 cm deep at the ends of the deck.
  10. Measure the diameter of the ends of the log. Draw two circles on a 2 mm thick metal sheet, the diameters of which are equal to the measured value, and cut out 2 disks. It is better to use stainless steel.
  11. Drill holes in the center 1-2 mm larger than the diameter of the rod.
  12. Along the edges of the disks, make holes for screws or nails for fastening to the deck. If there are no blanks for cutting out disks, you can use any flat metal molds you have, the dimensions of which are smaller than the diameter of the log, for example, ready-made parts rectangular shape or washer.
  13. Fasten the discs to the ends of the log with self-tapping screws, aligning the mounting holes in the pancakes and the collar.
  14. Drive the short axle into the hole in the deck. Do not install the long pin at this stage; it will not allow the gate with axles to be placed between the posts.
  15. Weld the short pin to the disc.
  16. Secure it to the log with self-tapping screws.

Fastening the gate to the posts in supports without bearings


To fix the product above the well, prepare special places in the racks. The most simple option horizontal holes in vertical posts are considered.

Do the work like this:

  • Make holes in both posts. Their diameter should be 2-3 mm larger than the dimensions of the rod. Make the openings on one horizontal line passing through the center of the shaft ring.
  • Place the gate between the supports and insert the short shaft into one hole.
  • Align the axes of the openings in the log and the stand on the other side of the well and fix the structure in this position with a technological stand placed underneath.
  • Through the hole in the post, install the long axle and roughly determine how to bend it into a handle.
  • Remove the long pin and bend it twice at a 90-degree angle. You should end up with a shape that resembles the letter “Z”, only with the sides at right angles to each other.
  • If a pipe is used as a blank for the handle, fill it with sand before bending so that the bend does not flatten. To make the procedure easier, heat the metal.
  • Reinstall the bent rod into the hole and make sure that it is convenient for people of different heights to rotate the handle. Its length is considered normal if it is high point it will not be located above a person of average height.
  • Drive the lever into the log and weld it to the disk at the end. Secure the pancake to the log with self-tapping screws.
  • Remove the stand from under the gate. Place the log in the middle of the well and secure it on both sides with split bushings installed on the axle.
The metal-wood contact is the simplest pair suitable for rotation. To reduce friction and increase the service life of the socket, fill it with grease. Its presence in support units must be constantly monitored. Rotating the log without lubrication will lead to play in the joints and difficulty in rotating the product.

To prevent the production of material when the gate rotates, caprolon bushings are often used, placed on the axles.

Install them in the following sequence:

  1. Select products whose internal diameter matches the axle diameter.
  2. Measure the outer diameter of the bushing and make the same holes in the racks, reducing it by 1 mm.
  3. When making holes, control their location in the horizontal plane.
  4. Press the bushing into the holes.
Install the gate into the supports in the same way as in the previous case. In this case, it is not necessary to lubricate the axles. Caprolon bushings have a minimal coefficient of friction with metal, so they have a long service life even without oil.

After securing the gate to the posts, do the following:

  • Attach a chain or rope to the log using a staple. You can also drill through the log and thread a chain through the hole, then rivet it. To facilitate the process of raising water, attach the cable to the middle of the deck.
  • Coat the metal parts of the well with anti-corrosion compounds and then with waterproof paint.
  • All wooden elements soak in antiseptic compounds.
  • Make a hook for an empty bucket and secure it to the shaft or wooden structures.
  • To protect the source, it is recommended to build a canopy or house over the mine.

Fixing the gate on bearing supports


The most complex and expensive option for a support unit is the use of ball bearings.

The work is carried out as follows:

  1. Carefully sand the areas on the axle and handle of the gate where the bearings will be installed. If possible, sand them using a sander.
  2. Select bearings whose inner diameter is equal to the gate axes. Make sure they fit onto the pins with a little force.
  3. Select or make metal hubs with a seat for the bearings and a flange for attaching to the racks. The inner diameter of the cups must be such that bearings can be pressed into them. Make 4-6 holes with a diameter of 11 mm in the flanges, evenly placing them around the circumference for attaching parts to the racks.
  4. Press the outer bearing race into the hubs. To do this, heat the glass to a temperature of 150-200 degrees and place the products in them. After cooling, the bearing will be securely fixed.
  5. Make holes in the racks, the diameter of which should correspond to the outer diameter of the hub.
  6. Install a cup with a bearing on the short axis.
  7. Mount the gate with bearings on the posts in the same sequence as in the previous section.
  8. Screw self-tapping screws into the holes of the hub with a diameter of 11 mm and fix them to the racks.
To ensure bearings function for a long time, lubricate them with thick grease and protect them reliably from water.

How to make a gate for a well - watch the video:


A gate is a mandatory attribute of a well, even if there is a pump, which becomes useless in the event of a power outage. The simplest classical design is easy to make and install yourself in a short time.

A do-it-yourself well driver is especially convenient on a summer cottage in winter time. You can remove the handle from it if the owner is absent for a long time, and mount it on any type of well house.

Before you make a crank for a well, you need to purchase:

  • Wooden deck.
  • Two wooden beams measuring 200x200 mm; two channels can be used.
  • Metal rod.
  • A metal sheet three millimeters thick and dimensions 50x50 cm.
  • Electric drill.
  • Welding machine.
  • Bulgarian.
  • Sandpaper.
  • Nails.
  • Measuring tool.
  • Pencil and compass.

The procedure for doing the work yourself includes:

  • It is prepared from a smooth round piece of log. Its length should be four centimeters less than the distance between the posts.
  • All bark is removed from it, and any existing irregularities are removed with a plane.

Tip: The wood used in the future needs to be processed special composition to protect the element from the harmful effects of pests and moisture.

  • Centers are marked at both ends of the deck. Holes will be drilled in them, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than that of the prepared metal round piece for the manufacture of fastening elements for the gate and handle.
  • Two pieces are cut from a round rod: one is 20 centimeters long, the other is about one meter. The second segment is bent and a handle is obtained.
  • When making a product, it is taken into account what the handle of the gate for the well should be, its length: increasing this size makes it easier to remove the bucket onto the surface, but it cannot be made too long, otherwise the length of the arms may not be enough when rotating freely.
  • The reliability and durability of the structure will increase when installing washers or a metal sheet on the entire surface at the ends, with holes made on it for attaching pins. The plates are fastened with self-tapping screws.
  • It is better to protect the edges of the gate with metal rings, which will protect the wood from cracking.
  • A chain with a bucket is attached to the center of the gate.

Tip: It is necessary to pay attention to the security of the chain on the gate. Otherwise, the bucket may remain in the device.

  • The next stage is the construction of racks. To do this, a hole is drilled in the left post, and a recess is made in the right post into which the gate is inserted, as shown in the photo.

Modern gate fastening design

The use of new materials in industry has made it possible to improve the options for gates for wells.
One of them is as follows:

  • The installation of the gate itself must be done using fluoroplastic or caprolon bushings. At the same time, the price will increase slightly, but the economic effect will be more noticeable.
  • Caprolon is a polymer used for products that must have anti-corrosion properties.
  • The material has good resistance to many chemical substances, among them are weak acids.
  • A special feature of caprolon is its environmental friendliness, which allows its use even in the food industry.
  • The low coefficient of friction on metal provides the material with sufficient wear resistance.
  • Caprolon retains its characteristics when in contact with abrasive substances.
  • The high resistance of the material doubles its service life compared to bronze.
  • When operating gates made of caprolon ensures noiselessness and reliability of the mechanism.
  • A device made from this material can perfectly cope with large temperature changes from -40 to +70 degrees.


In the second option, the well gate can be made of wood or metal.
In this case:

  • A steel axis is installed along the axis of the element.
  • To install this type of structure, strong racks are used, pre-installed on the structure. The gate supports are based on bearings, which ensure free and easy movement of the mechanism, and even a person who does not have great strength can lift water from the well.

To keep well water clean and clear for a long time, a house with a gate is built above the structure.
How to dig a well, the gate rod is made correctly can be seen in the video. This article offers some guidelines for constructing a well gate.

moikolodets.ru

Types of lifting mechanisms for wells

A well gate is a device for lifting water from a well shaft, shaped like a cylinder. The structure is fixed on an axis rotating in bearings. Rotational movements are performed using a handle or fingers - bars fixed around the perimeter of the gate. A metal chain or cable is attached to the lift, from which the bucket is suspended.

Attention. If the well is public, then to maintain the normal sanitary condition of the source, one bucket is used, permanently attached to a chain.


The second type of lifting mechanism is a crane, a device consisting of a balancer and a counterweight mounted on a support. A pole with a bucket is attached to the long part of the crane, which is lowered into the well shaft. This design allows the water to rise faster, but with a significant depth of the source, a larger device will be required.

Types of lifting devices

Well gate design

The classic version of a well lift is a wooden cylinder mounted on a metal axis with a handle or fixed on steel pins driven into both ends. To make a drum, a log with a diameter of 18-25 cm is taken. The second option is to use a metal structure. The mechanism is fastened above the well shaft. The knob rests on two posts that have a special recess and a fixing element. The second method is to install metal pins into holes drilled in the racks.

Well with a gate

The efficiency of using the mechanism is influenced by some of its parameters:

  • Increasing the diameter of the drum leads to a decrease in the number of turns of the crank required to get water from the well.
  • The length of the gate handle determines the force required to lift the bucket. The larger the radius of rotation, the easier the work. But if the length is too long, your hand will not be enough to turn the handle.
  • The type of door fixation on the posts.

Support nodes

Through-hole mounting

Where metal pins or pipes contact wood posts requires regular lubrication. Completing the procedure will ensure smooth movement of the knob and will allow you to maintain the normal size of the hole. Rotation of metal without sufficient lubrication is accompanied not only by unpleasant creaking, but gradually increases the diameter of the hole. Expansion of the opening leads to backlash; in such a situation, rotation of the well drum requires great effort.

Caprolon bushings

The use of caprolon bushings in the design will prevent the development of wooden holes. Polymer material has many advantages over metal analogue products:

  • The service life of caprolon is 2 times longer than that of metal.
  • The material is resistant to action abrasive particles, chemicals and corrosion processes.
  • The polymer is harmless to people, its use is allowed in the food industry.
  • Caprolon is wear-resistant and makes the mechanism operate silently and smoothly.
  • Polymer bushings are designed for operation in a wide temperature range: from -40 0 to +70 0.

Gate diagram for a well

Bearings

Rotation of the well gate, carried out using bearings, is the most expensive, but effective option. Their use complicates the design, requiring the installation of hubs on the well posts. The use of ball bearings makes the rotation axis particularly easy; lifting a bucket of water does not require significant physical effort.

Wooden gate

The traditional material for well and gate equipment is wood. Rounded logs have always served as the basis for a log house and a lifting mechanism. For self-made gate you will need:

  • Log with a diameter of 20-25 cm, length 1-1.2 m.
  • Bars 200×200 mm or metal channel for racks – 2 pcs.
  • Metal rod with a cross section of 30-35 mm.
  • A steel pipe with an internal diameter similar to the size of the log.
  • Caprolon bushings – 2 pcs.
  • A metal chain, the length of which depends on the depth of the well.
  • Sheet of metal with a thickness of 3 mm.

Tools:

  • Bulgarian.
  • Electric drill with a set of drills.
  • Welding machine.
  • Tape measure, pencil.
  • Sandpaper.

Stages of work:

Information. The gate can be installed by drilling holes in both posts. In this case, the right part of the rod is not welded at the same time as the left; it is first inserted into the hole in the post and then attached to the collar.

One of the options rotary mechanism- collar with fingers. The design involves the use of four support bars used as levers to rotate the gate. The fingers are located opposite each other. Methods for making a handle are limited only by the imagination of the master; it is possible to use a steering wheel. A bicycle pedal or a structure made of plastic pipes.

Gate with handle and fingers

otepleivode.ru

Construction of a well shaft

If the owner of a dacha decided to build a well, and even with his own hands, then first you need to decide on the location of the well. It should be located at a distance from the house and toilet, and also at a distance from the garden, which is watered in the summer.

Having decided on the location, they begin to dig the mine. If the depth of the mine does not exceed 6 m, then you can dig it yourself. And if greater depth is expected, then it is better to contact specialists. The principle of their strengthening depends on what will be used to strengthen the walls of the shaft.

Concrete rings are the most common when strengthening walls. Rings with an internal diameter of up to 1.1 m are relatively lightweight, so you can install them yourself, without using a crane. It is advisable to install them as the mine deepens. And when using wooden shaft walls, they are installed after the shaft has already been dug. To prevent the rise of silt, a layer of sand and gravel is poured onto the bottom.

Surface cladding

After equipping the mine, they begin to arrange the surface part. There are many options for finishing this part, and it can be made from a variety of materials.

The main component of the finishing work on the above-ground part is the lining of the well, a cover to close the shaft and a mechanism to ensure the rise of water. Often the owner of the dacha does this work with his own hands, and the appearance depends on his imagination.

The most common material for sheathing is wood. For this you can use boards or logs. In the case of boards, this is a simpler option. The well ring is surrounded by boards around its entire circumference. The lower part of the boards is dug into the ground, and the upper part is secured using the base of the cover. This type of cladding is easy to make, but the aesthetic appearance leaves much to be desired.

If logs are used for cladding, the appearance is much better. The logs are installed according to the principle of a log house, which is why the ground part has a square shape, onto which the base of the cover is fixed. To further insulate the ground part, you can lay insulation between the concrete ring and the sheathing.

Crane lifting mechanism

The “Crane” is a simple mechanism that is easy to make with your own hands. It is based on a lever with different arms. The lever is made entirely of wood. It consists of several components. At a certain distance from the well, a wooden pole is buried in the ground, at the end of which there is a stag. A long straight pole is inserted into this stag, taking into account the length of the arm from the axis. An additional weight is attached to the short arm, which will make it easier to lift a bucket of water from the well. Accordingly, a chain with a bucket is attached to the end of the long arm. When constructing this structure, it is important to correctly calculate the ratio of the pole arms and carry out balancing.

The “Crane” is a rather cumbersome structure, so it is built quite rarely on a summer cottage.

Gate lift mechanism

Most often, a gate is used to lift water.

The gate is a cylinder fixed to an axis and upon which, when rotated, a chain with a bucket attached to it is wound.

The gate is located above the shaft.

This mechanism consists of 2 racks, fixed along the edge of the ground part, a cylindrical part with axes, for installing it on the racks. You can make these components with your own hands. You don’t need any special materials or tools; everything can be found at the dacha.

First you need to decide what the mechanism will be made of. It can be made entirely of wood or metal, or you can use both materials during construction.

The gate mechanism is also simple, and you can make it yourself. To do this you will need:

  • wooden deck;
  • 2 wooden beams 200×200 mm or 2 channels;
  • metal rod;
  • metal sheet 50×50 cm and 3 mm thick;
  • drill;
  • welding machine;
  • emery or grinder;
  • nails;
  • ruler and tape measure;
  • pencil;
  • compass.

Preparatory work

The first step is to choose a flat wooden deck. Its length should be less, 10 centimeters, than the distance that will be between the posts. At the ends of the deck, holes are made in the center with a drill. The diameter of the recesses should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the rod.

The rod itself will be used as an axis for the gate. It is marked and cut. On the side where the handle will be located, by which the gate will rotate, the rod is made longer, which is subsequently bent in 2 places, thereby forming the handle of the gate. If a brace is used instead of a handle, then it is enough for the rod to protrude slightly beyond the rack.

From sheet metal 2 circles are cut out, equal in diameter to the deck, and strips 5 cm wide are also cut. Holes are made in the circles in the center, the diameter of which must correspond to the diameter of the rod. And at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge along the circumference, small holes are made for nails. From the strips you need to form and weld hoops that will be put on the edges of the deck. It’s not so easy to do it yourself, but it’s quite possible.

Then preparatory work is done with the racks. The length of the racks is selected depending on whether there will be a roof above the shaft or not. Next, markings are carried out and the place where the gate axis will pass is established. In this place you need to make holes corresponding to the diameter of the axes. If timber is used for the racks, then the hole is made with a drill using feather drills. If the racks are made of channel bars, then the holes are burned welding machine.

After the preparatory work, the structure is assembled.

Assembly of the structure

Rods are inserted into the recesses at the ends of the deck, then metal circles are seated on the rods. They are lowered close to the deck and welded to the rods using a welding machine. Hoops are placed on the edges of the deck to prevent cracks from occurring when driving nails. Then the nails are driven in. The chain is secured in the middle of the deck using a strong bracket. The gate is ready.

The finished gate is inserted into the racks with its axles. After which the long part of the rod is bent in 2 places at an angle of 90 degrees. All that remains is to install this structure on the well, so that the gate is in the center of the shaft. To ensure the reliability of the structure, the racks can be concreted. A self-made lifting mechanism can be used.

Final works

Next you need to cover the shaft. To do this, a base is formed from boards, to which the doors are secured with curtains. You can also make one wide door that will not open, but move to the side. This is what someone already likes. The main thing is that the doors securely close the well shaft.

Another step is to install the roof on the well. There are many options for what to make a roof out of. You can cover it with boards, metal tiles, slate.

The gate design described is the most common, but there are others that are also made by hand.

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Gate design

A well gate is a cylinder on which a chain, cable or rope is wound, holding a container for water, usually a bucket, designed to lift it from the depths of the aquifer.

The parameters that influence the efficiency of lifting a bucket of water are:

  1. The diameter of the cylinder on which the chain or rope is wound, the larger it is, the fewer number of turns of the handle should be made to lift the bucket.
  2. The radius of the well gate handle, which determines the force that must be applied to lift the bucket to a height corresponding to the circumference of the cylinder.
  3. The way the well gate rests its axis on the seats in the racks.

The classic design of a gate for a well, made by hand from scrap materials, is a log with a diameter of 15 to 25 cm with metal pins driven into the ends, one of which is bent twice at a right angle and represents a handle. The simplest support unit involves the rotation of metal pins in holes drilled in wooden posts, or between the plane of the upper cut and the fixing element fixed on top.

Types of well gates

The gate for the well can be made of various materials, and its cylindrical part be of different lengths, rotating on an axis and having a chain or rope attachment point positioned exactly above the center of the shaft. Possible options how to make a gate for country well with your own hands are:

  • a wooden cylinder obtained by manually removing the bark and leveling the unevenness with a plane or using a special machine;
  • a metal pipe with ends capped with metal disks of larger diameter, to one of which a simple rod is welded, and a lever is attached to the other end;
  • a disk from a car wheel mounted on a pipe of the appropriate diameter and welded to it. In this case, the pipe is the axis of rotation, and a handle for rotation is attached to one of the ends;
  • a rack structure attached to several stiffening ribs, which are wooden disks obtained by cutting logs.

When choosing wooden gate, which is the easiest and most accessible to do with your own hands, you should adhere to the following rules:

  1. The length of the log should be 10–15 cm less than the distance between the vertical posts.
  2. The ends of the cylinder must be fastened with a metal ring, the diameter of which provides a free-press fit, due to which it can be removed, but does not dangle when installed.
  3. A metal disk with a hub can be attached to the ends of the log, in which the axle shafts of rotation of the gate are secured using fasteners. An alternative is to weld the axle shafts directly to the discs.
  4. The flattened ends of pipes or rods can simply be hammered into the centers of the ends of the gate, thereby preventing the axle shafts from turning when the handle is rotated.
  5. To adjust the axial displacement of the gate, bushings should be installed in the spaces between the log and the post on both sides.

How to make a handle

The most common way to make a handle for rotating the gate axis with your own hands is to bend a pipe or rod twice at an angle of 90 0 in the form of the letter “L”, the longer the middle part of which, the less effort will be required to lift the bucket from the depths of the well, and even this can be done child. However, we should not forget that the horizontal part of the handle should be accessible to the person who will use the well, and if it is a child, then its position at the top point should not be higher than human height. In order not to make a mistake with the dimensions of the lever, you should make a drawing of the well, which will indicate the actual height of the head relative to the blind area and the position of the gate's axis of rotation.

Alternative solutions that can be made from scrap materials with your own hands are:

  • installation of a ship's wheel or shut-off valve flywheel on the end of the gate axle shaft using a keyed connection;
  • drilling four holes in the body of the gate in increments of 90 0 in order to insert the corresponding number of levers into them with interference and use them to give rotation to the cylinder.

Specifics of support nodes

The simplest friction pair suitable for a well gate, which you can make with your own hands, is contact metal pipe or rods in holes made in wooden posts. Smooth rotation in such a pairing of parts can be achieved by systematically adding grease to the gaps, which will reduce the friction force, facilitate the rotation of the gate and prevent wear on the wooden surface. The latter is the most unfavorable because it increases the diameter of the mounting hole, resulting in backlash and making it difficult to rotate the gate axle shafts.

More complex design has a design in which the hole in the struts has a larger size than the caliber of the axle shafts, determined by the outer section of the fluoroplastic bushing. The use of a bushing made of a material that has a minimum coefficient of friction when interacting with metal, fitted into the rack with interference, eliminates the need for lubrication and significantly increases the service life of the support units.

The service life of the friction pairs can be made almost infinite, taking into account the insignificant load, by replacing the bushings with ball bearings, the installation of which will require a hub on both racks, allowing for a press fit on the outer race.

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Design features of the gate

The installation of the gate itself for raising water should be done through fluoroplastic or caprolon bushings.
Caprolon is a polymer intended for the mechanical processing of products for antifriction and structural purposes. This material is extremely resistant to a number of chemicals, including weak acids. In addition, the positive characteristics include the absolute non-toxicity of the material, which allows it to be used even in the food industry.

Among the advantages of caprolon, one can highlight a low coefficient of friction on metal, which makes it extremely wear-resistant. Caprolon is able to maintain its characteristics even during contact with abrasive substances. Caprolon does not corrode. Its weight is insignificant - it is 7 times lighter than steel or bronze, and during operation, if we compare caprolon with the materials mentioned above, it increases the mileage by 2 times. In addition, a caprolon gate will provide silent and reliable operation mechanism.
A well gate made from this material can perfectly cope with significant temperature changes in the range from -40 to +70 degrees.

The well gate can be made of metal or wood. A device made of wood will have a steel axis in the center. This type must be mounted on strong racks, which must be installed in advance on the well. The gate can be rotated using bearings.

If you are thinking about how to make a gate, then before you start making its individual elements, you should consider: the longer the handle, the easier it will be to remove the bucket to the surface. However, the handle should not be too long, as the arms may not be long enough to ensure free rotation.

Make the gate the most in a simple way You can use a disk from a car wheel. To do this, you need to make a hole in it, and then secure the cable, giving it the shape of an eyelet. Making such a gate is not a difficult task, but when stored outside subzero temperature Condensation will begin to appear on the disk, since the temperature in the well will remain above zero, which will cause corrosion of the disk, this, in turn, will lead to the penetration of rust into the water of the well. To avoid this, before directly installing the disk, its surface must be cleaned of unevenness and rust, after which the cleaned base should be degreased and painted. It is impossible to make a gate for a well without attaching a cable or chain to the main structure. As a rule, the hole for the chain or cable is made as close to the middle as possible, this will make the process of lifting the bucket easier.

In order to secure the cable to the well gate with your own hands, you need to use one of two methods, the first of which involves drilling a hole on the shaft. Afterwards, a cable should be threaded into the resulting hole, which should be strengthened at the connection point; you can rivet it if the cable has a steel tip. Next, you can begin attaching the handle for the gate, which will first need to be made. IN in this case you can choose any material. So, the handle can be steel or wood. If you decide to prefer a wooden handle, then before the installation process it should be treated by sanding, which will rid the surface of the product from unevenness. Next, the handle must be polished, painted or varnished.

You can attach the handle to the collar in one of several ways. The log can be drilled through the length; a steel rod with a hex or square section. You can drill a couple of longitudinal holes through the log. You need to insert two bars into the holes so that they appear approximately 30 cm in the holes on both sides, in addition, they must be located perpendicular to each other. Afterwards they need to be secured with a wedge, cleaned and painted.

Tools and materials

  • bars;
  • antiseptic composition;
  • bolts;
  • nuts;
  • metal grid;
  • brass bands;
  • logs;
  • water pipes.

Gate installation technology

Initially, racks will have to be installed on the head of the well on both sides; beams, logs, and thick boards can be used as them. In order to provide even greater stability, the ends of these elements are often dug into the soil. Undoubtedly, this option is the simplest way to fix the racks. But wood in the ground quickly fails, rotting, which leads to the need to change racks. That is why it is worth using a method that will increase the service life of the racks. To do this, it is necessary to pre-treat the ends of the racks with an antiseptic composition; tarring can act as a replacement for this method.

Additionally extends lifespan wooden racks strengthening these elements on a ring element protruding above the ground surface, which should not be immersed in the ground. Thus, the installation of the racks must be done on the surface of the outer walls of the well rings. This can be done using the transportation (technological) holes that the rings are equipped with, or using specially made holes in their walls. In both of these options, fastening can be done using nuts and bolts.

On the top ring between the posts, you should install a square piece made of blocks. wooden frame. Those gaps that remain in the corners should under no circumstances be sealed tightly. They will be necessary to ventilate the interior of the well. To prevent debris from getting inside, they will need to be tightened using fine mesh metal mesh.

After all this design will be ready, you can install a drum in it. To do this, you will need a piece of flat, dry log, the diameter of which should be 20 centimeters or higher. The length of the drum should not reach 10 centimeters from the racks, i.e. move between them freely.

Both ends of the drum should be equipped with aluminum, copper or brass bands. In extreme cases, you can use steel tape. But in conditions of constant humidity it will rust quickly enough. These tapes will be necessary to ensure that cracks do not appear in the drum when the handle and shank are driven into it, which is also true for the process of further operation.

In order to make the handle and shank, you can use water pipes. Each arm leg should be approximately 30 centimeters long. To do this, the pipe should be marked into appropriate sections, and then bent at a right angle. To prevent the bend from being flattened, sand should first be poured into the pipe. And if the pipe is additionally heated, the bend will be not only even, but also smooth. However, it is quite possible to do without sand at the moment of bending.

It would be desirable to flatten the end of the handle, which is supposed to be inserted into the drum. This measure should not allow the handle to rotate around its own axis during operation. When driving the handle into the drum, much less effort will be applied.

The same must be done with the shank. Its length can be arbitrary. The main thing to consider is its secure fastening in the drum; as a rule, it is done in such a way that the end of the shank extends onto outer side racks 5 centimeters.

Drum installation in racks can be done in different ways. It can be installed in holes on racks; to do this, you will first need to install a shank into it. Then you need to insert the drum and shank into one of the holes that the stand has. Afterwards, through the hole that the other stand has, on the opposite side you should hammer the handle into the drum. In order to facilitate this work, you can test the handle on the ground into the body of the drum approximately 2/3 of the expected length. Then the handle should be removed from the drum and finally fixed through the hole in the stand, deepening it as required.

Final works

To prevent the drum from moving horizontally in the racks, limiters should be installed at the end of the shank on both sides of the rack. To do this, holes should be drilled in both sides into which large cotter pins or pieces of wire must be inserted, which must be bent.

The drum should be installed above the ring at such a height that the bucket of water can be freely removed. In this case, it will be necessary to take into account one more equally important circumstance: the part of the well ring that protrudes from the ground and has a wooden frame attached to it must have a height of at least 70 cm.

Otherwise, this may create certain inconveniences, since when removing the bucket from the well, you will have to bend down a lot. In this case, it is necessary to lay and strengthen additional bars or boards on the frame. Thus, you need to increase the frame to the required height.


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How to get water from an ordinary well? Right! You need to twist this handle, the chain from this log will unwind, and the bucket will fall into the water. Then, using the same handle, we twist the log and lift the bucket of water. This knowledge is quite enough for a person who sees a well in films, cartoons and illustrations. But the owners summer cottages And country houses Those who want to have an additional water source should know that “this thing” (with a handle and chain) is a gate for a well.

It is a simple device for conveniently lifting well water, regardless of the time of year. It can be used for its intended purpose permanently or serve as a backup option in the event of a malfunction of the installed pump. It is also the main part of the well house, which ensures the safety of the structure and protects water from debris.

The finished product can easily be found on sale, but it is much more interesting to make it yourself. You will be surprised, but imagination comes in handy here.

The design of the gate is as simple as possible: a cylindrical log on an axis, one end of which serves as a handle, and a chain with a bucket. Once assembled, all this is attached to the racks of the outer part of the well.

To make a gate you will need:

  • Wooden blank of cylindrical shape. Usually this is a simple log.
  • Two wooden bars or small logs - it all depends on the desired design of the well. You will need to make gate posts.
  • A sheet of metal (it is better to choose “stainless steel”) with a thickness of at least 3 mm and a size of about 50x50 mm.
  • Household welding machine.
  • Hand or electric drill with a set of drills for wood and metal.
  • Metal rod for the gate axle and handle.
  • Grinder for cutting it into pieces of the desired size.
  • Fastening elements – nails.
  • A cable with a chain at the end or a chain.
  • Pencil, ruler, tape measure.
  • Metal bracket.

At first glance, the list looks intimidating, but in reality everything is much simpler.

This is the main stage of work. You need to make some structural elements yourself and bring existing ones into proper condition.

First, you need to decide on the length of the future gate. It should be a few centimeters less than the distance between the posts. 4-8 cm on each side is enough. In this case, the racks can already be installed or at this stage temporarily fixed for measuring work.

Secondly, the log needs to be sanded and processed protective impregnation. For the first task you will need a plane, sandpaper, and for the second - special antiseptic compounds that prevent wood rotting.

Then, using a drill, you need to drill holes in the center of the end parts. The recommended depth is 12-15 cm, and the diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the rod for the axle.

They are made from a metal rod, which is cut into pieces of the required length using a grinder. It depends on the depth of the hole in the log, the distance between it and the posts, and the method of fastening the gate (on a bushing with a bearing, through). One part of the rod should be longer, since when bent at an angle of 90˚ it will serve as the handle of the lifting mechanism.

The following blanks must be cut from a sheet of metal: two circles equal to the diameter of the end parts of the wooden deck, strips 5-7 cm wide. The circles will serve as end discs that strengthen the structure, and the strips will serve as clamps that will prevent the log from cracking and deforming.

A hole is made in the center of the disks for the axial rod, and at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the edge, holes are made for nails or places for screwing in self-tapping screws are marked.

Alternative: if you do not have a sheet of metal of the required size, then the diameter of the disks can be smaller. These can also be rectangular parts or washers.

Assembling a well gate is a step-by-step process and, in principle, simple. Minimum skills with tools and welding machine required. It is advisable to have an assistant. You also need to mount the racks in advance, making holes in them for installing the gate or securing the bushing with the bearing.

  1. Axial rods are inserted into the end holes of the wooden deck. Direct! You will bend one of them to create a handle later.
  2. Metal discs are placed on them close to the wood.
  3. Using a welding machine, the disk is welded to the rod, but only on the side where it is shorter! You can weld the parts on both sides, but then on one side the gate axis will be inserted into the hole in the post, and on the other it will have to fit into a pre-made recess. This traditional version installation of a lifting structure.
  4. Hoops made of metal strips are placed on the deck.

Note! This stage must necessarily precede driving nails into the wood or screwing self-tapping screws into it, so that the cylindrical workpiece does not crack.

  1. Nailing or screwing end disks to the deck.
  2. Attaching a chain or cable in the center of the gate. This is done using a metal bracket.
  3. Installation of the structure on racks. If the fastening is planned to be through on both sides, then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the racks. A short rod with a log placed on it is inserted into one of them. Then a long rod is inserted through the second hole and welded to the disk. The scheme is similar for a bushing with a bearing.
  4. One of the ends of the axis is bent to accommodate the handle.
  5. A bucket is hung on a chain.

If you wish, you can continue working and, not limiting yourself to just the racks, make a house for the well.

Despite the range of pumping equipment given to us by progress for pumping water from underground sources, many well owners are true to tradition and use the classic drum for these purposes. You can buy ready-made models in specialized stores, but it is not difficult to assemble such a structure yourself. Let's look at how to make a drum for a well with your own hands, what materials are needed for this, and what types of gates can be made at home.

For many centuries, water was traditionally raised from a well shaft using a cylinder rotating on an axis, one end of which served as a handle. As the structure moves, a chain or rope is wound around it, lifting the filled bucket. The well drum is installed above the shaft on two racks attached to the ground part.

There are 3 types of gates:

  • wood;
  • metal;
  • combined (made of wood and metal parts).

The most popular is the combined one, so further we will consider the algorithm for manufacturing the combined gate.

The well with a drum has come to us from the abyss of centuries and continues to be popular

Interesting: the drum is still the leader in terms of frequency of use - well owners, like centuries earlier, use it to lift water, despite existing alternatives (“crane” and pumping systems). Even if water is supplied from the mine by a pump, some summer residents use the knob as a safety net in case of equipment malfunction or power outage.

Methods for attaching a drum to a well shaft

The driver can be attached to the shaft in two ways:

  • on racks fixed to the base of the shaft (supports are installed either during the construction of the well itself, or mounted on a finished foundation);
  • on racks resting on a table top or a “belt” of reinforcement (attached to anchors).

Before you make a drum for a well with your own hands, decide on the materials from which you will make not only the cylinder itself, but also the auxiliary elements. For the manufacture of supports, brick, wood or metal are chosen - depending on the material of the well house and the expected loads on the structure.

A gate with a house will protect the mine from dust and other debris

Note: a drum for a well will not only help to extract life-giving moisture from the depths of the soil - it provides additional strengthening of its above-ground part and prevents debris from entering the shaft.

Making a gate for a well step by step

Before starting work, prepare consumables and auxiliary materials:

  1. Wooden base cylindrical shape with a thickness of 20-25 cm. It should be shorter than the diameter of the well shaft (the gap between the supports is 4-5 cm on each side) for free movement during operation. Usually a length of 1.2 m is enough, but calculations are individual.
  2. Two channels, logs or bars 200-200 mm for racks.
  3. Metal sheet (50x50 mm) from 3 mm thick. Stainless steel will ensure the durability of the product.
  4. Metal rod for the axle and handle of the drum.
  5. A chain or cable for lifting the bucket (the length should be sufficient for the bucket to reach the water level in the well, preferably with a reserve).
  6. Welding machine.
  7. Drill for working with metal and wooden parts.
  8. Grinder for cutting iron elements.
  9. Planer or sandpaper for sanding wood.
  10. Nails or self-tapping screws, a metal bracket plus anchors if you plan to attach the structure to an armored belt.
  11. Tape measure, compass, pencil and ruler for marking and measuring.

Log requirements. Choose hardwoods - pear, cherry, beech or willow. Beech will last for decades, but it is heavy - take this into account when calculating. Before work, clean the log from bark, sand and process water-repellent impregnation to protect against wear, swelling in contact with water and mold.

By choosing a wide log, you will simplify the use of the well

Remember: The larger the diameter of the deck, the faster the chain will wind - the fewer turns required to lift a bucket of water.

Important: It is useless to open the log with varnish - after using the drum a couple of times, the coating will break off from the winding of the chain or cable and fall into the well.

Preparatory work

To make a drum for a well, you need to place an axis - an iron rod - in a wooden block. To do this, the log is wedged, a hollow is made in the center for the reinforcement and the deck is fastened with metal staples. You can also do through drilling under the axle. But these are labor-intensive and difficult to implement methods at home, we suggest doing something simpler:

Before starting work, make calculations and draw up drawings

  1. Draw up a project drawing with calculations.
  2. Mark the center at the ends of the deck.

Before drilling the ends, mark their center using a ruler or compass

  1. Using a drill, make 12-15 cm indentations at the ends of the deck. Their diameter should be slightly less than the diameter of the axis.
  2. Mark the iron rod with reserve for the handle and cut it into 2 parts with a grinder: one length is slightly longer than the recess in the deck (about 20 cm), the second fragment, from which you will make the handle, should be longer (about 1 m). If the handle will be attached to the axle separately, just leave a couple of cm in reserve to fix the elements.
  3. Using a compass, draw circles on an iron sheet equal in diameter to the circumference of the log, and cut them out with a grinder. In the center of each, drill holes for the axles.

Cut circles from a sheet of metal

  1. At a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the edges of the circles, we drill holes for nails or mark places for screwing in self-tapping screws.
  2. Mark the sheet again and cut out two strips. Weld them into hoop-clips 5-6 cm wide. They will fix the log, preventing it from cracking over time.
  3. If the racks have not been installed previously, we make them from channels or prepared bars. We mark holes on them for the axle and in the first case we burn them with a welding machine, in the second case we drill them with a drill attachment.

The gate can be attached to the posts using a bushing with a bearing or through it.

To help: if you don’t have sheet metal at hand, you can use rectangular pieces of iron for the discs at the ends of the future gate. And the wooden deck can be replaced with a large-diameter pipe - this point must be thought through before starting to make the gate.

Selection of material for racks

For trouble-free operation of a drum with metal axles, it is better to make the stands from wood. Rotation will be smooth if the holes in the support bars are lubricated to reduce friction and prevent abrasion of the wooden surface.

If you use a bushing and drill holes in the posts that are larger in diameter than the axles, this will increase the life of the support units and reduce friction to a minimum.

The bushings can be replaced with ball bearings. To implement such a system in the supports, it is necessary to make hubs for press-fitting the axles in the outer race and provide grease nipples for lubrication.

Algorithm for assembling a drum for a well

We insert pieces of rods into the recesses at the ends of the deck.

We place circles on top and weld them to the axles.

If you want to immediately weld the discs to the axles, provide a groove instead of a hole in one of the posts; once these parts are fastened, the gate will no longer be installed any other way

We put hoops on the ends of the drum.

Important: The hoops must be put on before fixing the discs with nails to protect wooden blank from cracking and deformation.

We use nails or self-tapping screws to secure the metal discs at the ends of the gate.

Using a bracket, we mount a bucket chain or cable in the center of the workpiece.

We install and fasten the racks to the above-ground part of the well with anchors.

We insert the drum into the racks, making sure that it is located directly in the center, symmetrically.

Important! If you immediately weld the circles to the rods on both sides of the deck, in one of the racks instead of a hole you need to make a hollow so that the long part of the rod can fit into it. If you are planning a through fastening, then first insert a short rod with a disk welded to it into the log, put on a hoop and thread it into the rack. Then we put the hoop on the other end and, holding the workpiece and the second disk, thread the long axle through the hole in the second rack and only then (!) weld it to the iron circle.

We bend the long rod twice by 90° (the first time – vertically, the second – horizontally, so that the handle is parallel to the collar). If desired, we decorate it or provide it with a wooden handle for convenience.

Make sure the handle is long enough

Please note: The longer the middle part of the handle, the less effort required to lift the water. But its upper part should not rise too high at full rotation to make it convenient to operate the drum. To avoid miscalculation, mark on the drawings the required height relative to the axis of rotation of the knob.

All you have to do is hang the bucket on the chain and you’re done.

After installation of the structure metal elements treat with anti-corrosion impregnations.

To protect the mine from dust and make the structure more impressive, in addition to the drum, you can make a house for the well with your own hands.

No templates: non-standard solutions

We gave an example of the simplest standard version drum for a well, but folk craftsmen make more intricate designs with their own hands. You can turn an ordinary gate into a spectacular element of the exterior by decorating the deck with carvings, or use non-standard design solutions:

  • several thin logs instead of one - a cylindrical textured gate;
  • a disk mounted on a pipe of a suitable cross-section is an option with urban notes;
  • rack and pinion knob fixed on stiffening ribs (on wooden disks) – motifs of rustic comfort.

The handle can also be designed creatively - instead of rods, use painted pipes filled with sand for density, a steering wheel, a bicycle pedal, or a car steering wheel. Give free rein to your imagination.

Don't be afraid to experiment with design

Making a gate for a well with your own hands is easy if you have patience and take the time to make accurate calculations and thorough preparation. But if you are not 100% sure of the final result, seek help from professional carpenters or purchase a ready-made construction

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