The myth about supposedly self-sharpening knives was quickly shattered... About everyday life. This is not surprising, the laws of physics are laws of physics, and even marketers, so to speak, are powerless against them. If there are no sharpened knives in the house, if you remember the famous bard, there is nothing good. Today the editors of the site will help solve the problem of dull blades and tell you how and with what you can properly sharpen a knife at home. We will introduce our readers to different types devices for sharpening knives, we will tell you about their effectiveness, and also teach you how to make a simple sharpening machine at home.
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Types of devices for sharpening knives
A whetstone for sharpening knives is probably the very first device of this type. A simple, and, most importantly, affordable tool has been successfully coping with its task for many millennia.
To this day, the classification of machine tools depends on this once uncontested sharpener. Depending on the type of abrasive material, they can be:
- bars;
- sharpening stones.
By drive type:
- manual;
- electrically driven.
By place of use:
- domestic;
- professional.
However, in modern world a whetstone can only sharpen a simple hunting knife. In other cases, the quality will leave much to be desired. In addition, only soft metals can be sharpened with a stone; if the cutting part of the blade has a hardness above 55 HRC, you cannot sharpen it with improvised means.
Important! Each type of blade has a different edge angle. And during sharpening it must be held along the entire length of the processed surface of the product.
Some types of modern sharpening stones are still used today. An example of this natural stones– Japanese water stone (we showed it in the photo above) or American “Arkansas”. Master sharpeners even conduct special master classes on sharpening knives using natural stone. It is interesting that before the processing process it is soaked in water, sometimes with a soap solution, and after work it is dried. The whole process resembles a sacrament for initiates. So it should come as no surprise that these grades are overly expensive and most sharpening devices use artificial abrasive surfaces.
Knife sharpening stones
These are artificially turned bars with an abrasive coating, which are suitable for manual sharpening of both carpentry and plumbing tools, and for kitchen knives.
The bars, depending on the material from which they are made, can have varying degrees of wear resistance and grain size. Let's consider the main types of materials that are used in the manufacture of sharpening stones:
- Natural stones, such as novaculite or Japanese water stone. Working with such a tool is not very easy. They require certain skills and craftsmanship.
- Diamond(with diamond coating) – can be different shapes and graininess. Wear-resistant. Reasonable price.
- Ceramic. Refer to more modern look whetstones for sharpening. They combine the strength of diamond coating with the hardness of natural stone.
- Artificial: electrocorundum or carbide. Quickly grinding abrasive is of low quality and the same price.
Artificial abrasives are created by mixing diamond powders of different fractions, as well as electrocorundum and carbide.
Important! Of great importance in this case is the material used to glue the rock together, as well as the percentage of all elements. The stronger and better the composition (this also applies to the particles themselves), the more durable the sharpening abrasive will be.
Moreover, there are two types of bonding of elements - galvanic bonding and soft bonding. In the first case, the crystals are glued strictly to the surface of their base, made of a nickel alloy. In fact, the crystals are located very thin layer on a block. A soft binder is a chaotic arrangement of binding and abrasive elements. The second type is less wear-resistant.
Sharpening stones for knives
If we talk in more detail about sharpening stones, we need to talk about the main types used in such tools, this will help you understand the process in detail and understand how to sharpen a knife correctly. But before talking about them, we cannot help but mention the stages of sharpening, which will play a role in this context decisive role in description different materials and machine tools.
| Stage | Description | Illustration |
| Sharpening | Restoring a blunt edge without adjusting the sharpening angle. |  |
| Finishing | Grinding the edge with fine grain abrasives. |  |
| Edit | Polishing bevels and cutting edge ceramic pencil, GOI paste or on a leather belt. |  |
| Resharpening (deep sharpening) | Complete restoration of the desired sharpening angle, blade profile geometry and elimination of chips on the edge. Most often, such work is carried out on special machines. |  |
Let's move on to a description of the main options for sharpening stones.
Japanese water stones Waterstone
They are used equally effectively at all stages of sharpening. There are artificial analogues (ceramic based), but professionals use original, natural materials. Stones require special care, because most important rule masters - a perfectly smooth surface of the grindstone.
A comment
Ask a Question"To check the level of the stone, use simple method. Wet the timber and place it on a sheet of paper on a flat surface. The imprint will allow you to evaluate the level of evenness of the stone.
"Novaculites, or “Arkansas”, “Turkish”, “Belgian” stones, are natural schists and chalcedony interspersed with tiny particles of garnet and quartz. Today they are used as natural stones, and their artificial substitutes.
Important! Stones only work in combination with a special oil lubricant. The extraordinary and unique structure of the stones allows them to be used on different stages processing.
Musat for sharpening knives
Musat is a kind of file, most often installed vertically. The peculiarity of this tool is that its surface is magnetized, which means that metal flour will not fall on you.
Musats come in different shapes: round, faceted, flat with beveled edges Each variation has its own merits. For example, round musat weighs little, but oval sharpens better, since its edges provide more complete contact with the surface being processed. Tetrahedral ones are more universal; here you can better refine the required sharpening angle.
Household manual knife sharpening machines
We can talk for hours about the options and varieties of hand-held machines used in everyday life. These include the usual home mini-sharpeners, known to almost everyone, and more specific devices with a polishing wheel.
The easiest way to work is with mini-sharpeners that control the stroke of the tool. In this case, the degree of sharpening depends on the effort the person makes.
Household electric knife sharpening machines
Electric sharpeners are more convenient. Working with them saves time. Most often, such drive machines have different operating modes, which are regulated by switches.
Typically, such machines are compact, safe, simple and reliable, since all grinding wheels hidden inside the case. In this case, the sharpening angle is adjusted by a special spring, which completely eliminates errors in sharpening.
Professional manual sharpeners for sharpening knives
Professional hand tool A bit like a carpenter's vice. The object to be sharpened, the knife itself, is clamped with special clamps.
Myself grinder is installed on the stop. It is very important here to properly secure the machine and avoid the device slipping during sharpening.
A comment
Tool selection specialist at VseInstruments.ru
Ask a Question“If you do not have the skills to operate this tool, it is better to use automatic sharpeners. In addition, such a machine cannot be assembled without certain knowledge.
"
Professional electric knife sharpening machines
Professional machines are distinguished by their versatility. Usually this is a device with a massive abrasive disk. Such tools allow you to sharpen not only knives, but also locksmith tool, for example, planes and chisels.
The combination of low speed and constant cooling gives high-quality processing products already at the stage of formation of the cutting edge. And at the final stages of work they provide the blade with razor sharp. IN professional instrument A large number of attachments and replaceable discs are provided. Moreover, the clamp where the blade is secured can move freely along the support in the horizontal direction. Moreover, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
How to sharpen a knife correctly
For high-quality sharpening of the machine, you need experience and certain knowledge. Let's start with the basics.
Optimal sharpening angles and degree of sharpness for kitchen knives
It's no secret that there are a lot of knives for different materials. A good housewife has her own knife for vegetables and meat. Let's consider correct angles sharpening various tools.
| Tool type | Sharpening angle |
| Razor and medical scalpel | 10-50° |
| Professional for chefs | 20-25° |
| Universal | 25-30° |
| For complex work | 25-30° |
| Kitchen cutlery | 55-60° |
| For fillet | 15-20° |
| Home universal | 30-35° |
| Deboning and cutting | 25-30° |
| Professional for fish | 25° |
| Professional for vegetables | 35° |
| Hunting and “Swiss” (spicy) | 30-35° |
| Hunting and “Swiss”, resistant to blunting | 40-45° |
For your information! The sharpest knives are considered to be blades with a sharpening angle of 50°; such versions, with a certain grade of steel, can cut nails. When sharpening knives, you can vary the angle at your discretion within the mentioned range.
In general, the sharpness of a blade depends on the shape of the blade. And it, in turn, must correlate with certain clear correspondences of the relationships between the blade and the blade.
How to sharpen a knife at home with a whetstone
The process is simple, but quite painstaking. Without sharpening experience, trying this process is pointless. Typically, craftsmen use two sharpening stones with different abrasive densities - with a large grain and a fine one.
Almost every person in life is faced with the question of sharpening knives. After all, any knife, regardless of its quality, sooner or later becomes dull. Therefore, the blade must be carefully maintained.
In stores today you can choose any sharpener from a huge variety.
What types of sharpening stones are there?
In general, there are several main types of such devices. Namely:
Oil-based, on the surface of which there is oil, specifically to save material.
Water, similar to the previous one, but water is used here.
Natural, industrially processed.
Artificial, made from non-natural materials.
Rubber, extremely rare. Completely inconvenient to use.
Nuances in the matter of sharpening
Every knife sharpening has its moments.
For example, Japanese independent type requires sharpening special attention quite an experienced specialist, since the Japanese type of steel is quite fragile. To sharpen them, manufacturers recommend using different water stones with different grain sizes.
Housewives use store-bought sharpeners for sharpening. When using several knives, their sharpness remains longer.
But this is very important, even though it takes a lot of time and effort.
How to sharpen knives correctly?
For this it is necessary to create special conditions. Thanks to them, the knife will remain sharp for a very long time.
Therefore, it is important to choose the right angle at which you will sharpen your knives. According to the basic rule in this matter, the smaller the angle at which the knife is sharpened, the stronger the cutting edge will be.
It is important not to forget that the next sharpening depends on the maximum sharpness. The sharper the knife, the faster you will have to sharpen it. At the same time, making it “workable” again will be much more difficult.
Why do they sharpen knives?
The purpose of sharpening is to restore the sharpness of the blade. To do this, take care of the correct sharpening angle. That is, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which complies with the standards from a technological point of view.
To check how well the sharpening is done, cut the material that is cut by the blade of this particular knife. If the material is cut simply, you will do everything absolutely correctly.
Possible problems during the sharpening process
In order to choose the right angle correctly, it is important to have some experience, without which it is quite difficult to cope with this issue. And even more so if there is no special equipment for this.
After all, if you hold a knife with your hands during the sharpening process, it is quite difficult to achieve its ideal “sharpness” as a result.
How do you sharpen knives at home?
Sometimes it happens that the knife needs to be sharpened quickly. A block of wood, a hacksaw, sandpaper, a ceramic plate, a chisel, etc. may come in handy here.
And there are even those who can sharpen them on a foundation made of cement and sand. But this method is not recommended at all. After all, there are a lot of other and more proven ones!
The best of all is to make a homemade device. This is not only convenient, but also hardly distinguishable from the factory one.
How to sharpen a planer knife
Knives of this type can be handled by an experienced professional craftsman who has not only knowledge, but also skills in this matter. The process is actually quite complicated.
At the same time, in simple store Equipment for sharpening such a knife is quite difficult to find. You should know what will help here modern instrument, in which you can set low speed with water cooling.
You need to use a new stone with a flat surface. The best type of stone will be the water type.
In addition, without specific experience and sharpening skills planing knives, you can also contact a service station, which probably has equipment such as a sharpener.
I wanted to learn how to sharpen knives, but I won’t say that I didn’t know how to do it at all. Of course, I sharpened it with my hands on the stones, and tried to maintain the angle, but it seemed to work—the knives shredded the paper.
I decided to take this process more seriously. And, as is usual here in Russia, do everything yourself from what is at hand, and even for free. We have such lovers and I am like that. For such people, in fact, this article is.
I looked at sharpening machines on the Internet and settled on Apex. The first thing I did was look for it on Chinese sites, there are, of course, copies and they were inexpensive (before the dollar exchange rate changed), now even Chinese ones are a bit expensive for us. I looked at how it works, what the nuances are. Yes, it looks like it can be repeated.
Making Apex
Looking ahead, I will say that it was not possible to do it completely for free; I still had to spend money, but quite a bit. About 150 rubles.
Instead of a base, I took a 2 mm galvanized sheet. I bent it by eye (for some reason I guessed exactly 20 degrees in the corner). Fixed it on a sheet of chipboard. Instantly glued magnets from old ones hard drives, it took 3 magnets. 
I looked at the knife rests on the Internet, they are convenient and a great idea. I found a support for the hinge in the garage, it has an 8mm thread.
At first I thought about changing the angle with nuts, but I decided that the angle changes often and it would be inconvenient to move the nuts back and forth and tighten the locknuts each time so that there is no play.
Where can I get a stone guide? Caught my eye old bed, or rather the back, remember, probably, these were the case during the USSR. Why not a barbell from the back? I attached a 25x25 mm square profile to the rod (after sanding it first). Remember the curly bushings there. With their help (it took three pieces), in one you need to drill a hole to 11 mm (diameter of the rod). I added a nut for 10 and a pin with a ball from the same bed, and it turned out to be a comfortable handle.
I decided to sharpen it with sandpaper, there is such a method, it seems to work out very inexpensively and quite well. I bought several sheets of sandpaper of different grain sizes. To avoid sandpaper residue, the length square profile I made the width of the sandpaper sheet 230 mm. I made a cut on the rod and drove an engraving washer of a suitable size into it. Everything came together perfectly, as if it was intended for this.
I was afraid it would be difficult to center the profile, but in this way, the profile fell into place on its own. I glue the sandpaper onto the pencil with stationery glue.
Hinge for sharpener
I thought for a long time about this unit, how to make it so that there was no backlash. I thought of doing this. I went to a bearing store and it turned out that there are such bearings as SHS (in my opinion, the sliding ball stands for). There are sizes 10, 12, 15 according to the inner diameter of the hole. But the rod is 11 mm. It's hard without a turner. But a way out was found. In the store across the road they sold spare parts for KAMAZ trucks, and there I found a brass bushing for 10mm brake pipes. I bought ShS-12 (65 rubles) and a bushing (8 rubles). At home I drove the bushing onto the rod, with a hammer it expanded remarkably, I ground it a little to the rod, which is what happened here. I inserted it into the joint (with glue, just in case, to eliminate play) and flared it. Everything has grown together again. There is a small gap left, in the ShS itself, it Russian production and is a little loose (I went through about a dozen in the store - all of them are the same). I wanted to weld the welding joint to the nut for fastening, but another idea came to mind, how to do without welding. I went to a plumbing store and bought pipe fasteners. It says 3/8” costs 27 rubles. I sanded it a little so that the working angle of the joint did not decrease. Next, using a pin with an 8 mm thread, I connected the clamp with a long nut and in the right place I drilled a 9 mm hole using a long nut. The lamb was made from a purchased lamb for 5 rubles. Nuts and studs are the same at 8 mm.
When I assembled it (clamped the joint into the clamp), the play disappeared, the bolts of the clamp compress the joint and the play goes away completely. It turned out better than welding. And when worn out it is easy to replace.
Oddly enough, all the details fell perfectly into place. I had to do a minimum of alterations. There is no backlash. Everything turned out to be very simple, I even made a second rod to polish the cutting edge.
As I have learned, it took about half an hour on the second barbell. I glued it on the edge:
- skin for Goya paste
- clean skin
- wooden ruler with Goya paste
- clean wooden ruler
I use them in different sequences.
I want to say that the idea was a success, in two days I sharpened all the knives I could find. Angles can be measured using a household inclinometer, or a telephone with an installed program for measuring angles
Compared with manual method on stones, sharpens much easier and sharper. The paper is planed, the hair is shaved. I haven’t tried trimming my hair, I think it’s too sharp and has no use in life, although with due diligence you can achieve it.
Spent:
- ShS-12 – 65 rubles;
- brass bushing - 8 rubles;
- clamp - 27 rubles;
- lamb - 5 rubles;
- long nut - 5 rubles;
- a sheet of sandpaper 240 - 2 rubles;
- sheet of sandpaper 600 - 2 rubles;
- sheet of sandpaper 1000 - 10 rubles;
- sheet of sandpaper 2000 - 10 rub..
Total: 134 rubles. The rest was found in the garage for nothing. And plus work with your hands and head.
Who is too lazy to tinker, I found an inexpensive sharpener of the same type, the reviews are good, you can buy it.
Also made by hand.
Sharp knives for you.
Article tags:
- knife sharpening;
- knife sharpener;
- homemade Apex;
- knife sharpener;
- sharpening machine.
This article is found by the words:
- sharpener apex homemade sandpaper
- DIY knife sharpener
- DIY knife sharpening machine
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Sharpening video.
A device for sharpening knives with your own hands is required device for any work in the kitchen or workshop. Usage is perfect sharp knives makes cooking much easier, allowing you to use less force to cut meat, slice vegetables or bread. Working with a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous, because such a tool can fall off the material being cut at any moment and cause injury to you.
By using homemade sharpener for knives, you can sharpen the knife at any angle, since the sharpening angle is independently adjustable.
In order to bring any knife to a sharp state, you should know optimal angle his sharpening. This parameter depends on the grade of steel and the purpose of the knife. Homemade devices will help you place the knife under the right angle to sharpen it quickly and efficiently.
How to sharpen knives correctly
Figure 1. Device for sharpening knives “Domik”.
Some types of kitchen knives cannot be sharpened yourself. These include specially shaped tools (for example, a bread knife or other types of knives with a raised edge). Also cannot be sharpened Ceramic knives. However, the advantage of the listed tools is that manufacturers try to make them from especially hard grades of steel, so they do not become dull for a long time.
For correct sharpening you should choose good abrasives of different grain sizes. Store-bought versions of such bars are quite expensive, but you can always make a block yourself from a piece of wood covered with fine sandpaper. It is important to have devices of different grain sizes: large ones for preliminary “grinding”, and small ones for grinding.
The optimal sharpening angle for a knife edge is from 20 to 30 degrees, depending on the functional purpose of the tool. It is quite difficult to sharpen manually at this angle, so simple homemade mechanisms are used for this purpose.
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Assembling a knife sharpening device
Among the many tools for sharpening knives with your own hands, you should choose the one that will best suit your goals. All devices have a fairly simple structure and consist of two main parts:
- stop for securely fastening the knife;
- a movable block of abrasive material.
Figure 2. Wooden body in the form of a right triangle to accommodate the whetstone.
The simplest tool for creating a sharp edge on a blade is called a “house” (Fig. 1). It looks like a rectangular or wooden block square shape, the upper edge of which is processed in the form of a gable “roof”. The angle of inclination of the edges of such a block is 20-25°. The knife to be sharpened is placed with its edge close to the ridge of the “roof”. By moving the abrasive bar in a horizontal plane along the blade, we will ensure that the sharpening angle remains constant.
There are also quite complex devices. To create them you will need some materials, tools and a little time, but you will provide yourself with a convenient sharpening tool for a long time. The device is assembled from the following materials:
- wooden board, dimensions 500x150x20 mm;
- metal studs, 8 mm in diameter with thread;
- several M8 bolts and nuts, wood screws;
- wing-type clamping screws;
- textolite or piece of steel for the pressure plate;
- optional neodymium magnet for securely fastening the knife during the sharpening process.
From wooden board you need to make the body in the form of a right triangle, and the lower leg should be slightly longer, since a stand for the grindstone will be placed on it (Fig. 2). The inclined board is attached at an angle of 20° to the base. A hole is made in it for attaching the pressure plate, through which a screw with a wing nut will pass.
Figure 3. It is necessary to drill a hole for a vertical pin, which will serve as a holder for the abrasive device.
Near the acute corner of the structure, you need to drill a hole for a vertical pin, which will serve as a holder for a movable abrasive structure (Fig. 3). A small one is put on the hairpin wooden block, which is clamped with a screw and a clamping nut.
The last element of the device is another pin with a clamp holder for an abrasive whetstone (Fig. 4). Clamps can be made independently from wood, metal, ebonite or other material, or you can use a disassembled clamp for this. For better stability, you can glue rubber feet to the bottom of the instrument (video 1).
In order to sharpen a knife using such a device, it is placed on a magnet, and if there is no magnet, it is pressed against the stop, holding it with your hand. The angle that occurs between the surface of the knife blade and the horizon provides optimal sharpness for kitchen knives. By making longitudinal movements with the holder with an abrasive stone, you need to achieve a sharp edge of the knife, then turn it over to the other side and repeat the steps.
As abrasive bars, you can use ready-made products that you can purchase at a hardware store or make them yourself. For this, small rectangular glass plates, 4-5 mm thick, are used. With help double sided tape Sandpaper of different grain sizes is glued to their surface. The cost of such bars is very low, and sandpaper You can replace it with a new one at any time. The only caution is to tighten the clamp nuts carefully, otherwise the glass may easily break.
One of the problems that arises when using such a device is rapid wear of the abrasive, since water is not used during operation. For the same reason, you should avoid too fast movements, which lead to overheating of the metal and loss of the properties of the cutting edge.
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Typical mistakes when manually sharpening knives
Figure 4. Hairpin with clamp holder for an abrasive stone.
If you are not sharpening knives professionally, but are one of the people who use these tools only at home, then before you start sharpening them yourself, you should learn about some typical mistakes newbies:
- The first and most common mistake is not sharpening the cutting edge. It consists in the fact that when working with abrasives on work surface When cutting a knife, many small burrs are formed, which create the feeling of sharpness of the knife. After the first few uses, the burrs fall off and the blade becomes dull again. To prevent this from happening, it is important to sharpen the tool to the end. For a more detailed examination of the cutting edge, you can use a magnifying glass - it will make it possible to control the correct execution of the process.
- Presence of dirt on the blade. Under no circumstances should you sharpen a dirty, greasy knife. Sometimes you can see how professional chefs, in the process of cooking, take a round file with a handle - musat, run it several times over the tool and continue to work. But this is not a sharpening accessory, this device Use only to level the edge of the knife.
- It is important to avoid not only dirt, but also the remnants of previous, larger abrasives, since they easily mix with the fine grinding material, leading to scratches and unevenness.
- Pressing too hard. The sharpness of a knife does not depend on the force applied to the block, but on the duration and accuracy of sharpening. Too much pressure causes the cutting edge to break off.
- Wrong choice of sharpening angle. This parameter depends on two indicators: the purpose of the tool and the grade of steel from which it is made. For kitchen knives, the optimal angle is 20 to 25 degrees. Tourist, hunting and fishing knives must withstand heavy loads without becoming dull. For them, the edge angle is up to 40 degrees. For comparison: the sharpness allowing the knife to be used as a razor is 10-15 degrees.
Greetings, Samodelkins!
Today I want to show you how you can use the materials that are (or at least should be) in almost every workshop to make an excellent device for sharpening knives evenly.
Initially, the master wanted to buy a ready-made device for sharpening knives in China (namely in the Aliexpress online store), but he thought why not try to make such a sharpener with his own hands. Moreover, the prices for this product from Chinese friends are rather high.
For self-made will be needed following materials and tools:
1. Ordinary board;
2. Sandpaper;
3. Screwdriver;
4. Hammer;
5. Thick electrode 1 pc;
6. Jigsaw;
7. A piece of laminate;
8. Bolts and nuts;
9. Wooden handle;
10. Hex key;
11. Fluoroplastic or textolite (fiberglass).
Let's get down to actually making the sharpener.
First, let's take an ordinary board and cut a piece out of it. Then you need to process the resulting wooden blank, namely, sand it with sandpaper.
It will serve as the base for our homemade sharpening device.
In terms of size, we get it to be 26 cm in length, the width of the workpiece is 6.5 cm, and the height of the wooden base is 2 cm.
You also need to make holes in this board. In total, this part of the future product will have 6 through holes. We drill 2 holes for the stand itself (more on that a little later). Nearby we drill another hole of a smaller diameter, and also on the other side of the board we drill 3 more holes that will serve to attach the pressure plate.
Insert nuts into the holes made.
In the future, these nuts can be placed on glue so that they do not fall out, but for now everything seems to be quite tight.
Then we will start making the guide post itself. The master made it from an ordinary thick electrode. It needs to be bent in half. Next, using a hammer, the author knocked off the entire upper part of the welding electrode and ground it. By the way, you can also grind using an ordinary screwdriver. To do this, simply insert the electrode into the screwdriver chuck and, holding sandpaper in your hand, grind the product.
At this stage, we insert the resulting workpiece (guide post) from the electrode into these two holes.
We insert it not at a right angle, but at a slight angle. The guide angle is somewhere between 65 and 70 degrees.
Everything fits quite tightly, but also for greater reliability of our design, in the future it will be possible to attach the guide post with epoxy glue, or with some other glue, or with something else.
But perhaps the master is mistaken and this is not fluoroplastic. Fluoroplastic is most often white and somewhat slippery. Most likely it is textolite or fiberglass. But in essence it’s not that important. The main thing is that this material is quite hard and does not wear off.
From this piece (fluoroplastic or non-fluoroplastic), the author cut out a kind of pressure plate. He made holes in it, as well as small recesses, so that the caps would extend slightly into the depths of the plate.
Then we place this plate on the previously made wooden base. Secure with screws.
The author took the screws with a hex key. The master also made a small hole in the base of the future knife sharpener so that this key would always be in this sharpener.
The whole thing is clamped and they (the screws) are actually not visible on the plate.
But here, the master did not do the countersunk work, since the sharpening part of the tool will not touch this screw.
Next, the author made such a plate from the same fluoroplastic.
In this plate I made 2 holes for the same hexagonal screw.
Next, the whole thing is placed here and pressed with the help of a lamb.
Then the master made just such a guide for the sharpening stones.
The length of the guide is 57 cm. The author made it from an ordinary steel rod. Also cleaned it up. And on one of the ends I put this handle (it looks like it came from an old Soviet file).
You can also strengthen this connection by placing the wooden handle of the file on the glue, but it fits in quite tightly here and nothing falls out.
Regarding the attachment of the sharpening stones themselves. The author took a small piece of the clamp, cut it and made holes. As a result, we got corners like this, two identical ones.
And here I put a nut with a thread and a clamping screw.
The master also installed a spring on the guide so that sharpening stones could be changed without unscrewing the nut with the clamping screw.
The author made the sharpening stones themselves, or rather the base for these stones, from an ordinary piece of laminate. Just cutting it into strips.
The width of the strips is 2.5 cm, and the length is about 20 cm.
The pieces of laminate already have ready-made grooves, which is where the corners of the guide part of the device will go.
Then the author glued sandpaper to the laminate pieces using double-sided tape and labeled which one went where. And, in fact, this is how it all turned out:
This whole thing is quite easy to set up. Using the groove of the laminate we get into one corner of the guide, and with the help of a spring we press the sharpening stone with the second corner.
All. Nothing falls out anywhere. Everything lies flat and quite tightly.
Let's continue assembling our device. We insert the guide with the sharpening stone attached to it into the hole prepared in advance for it, and you can safely begin the process of sharpening the knife.
The stroke is quite large due to the fact that here the author removed a small chamfer on both sides.
