Simple repair and maintenance of an electric chain saw. Electric saws and their malfunctions and repairs Malfunctions of the electric chain saw max

Electric saws are indispensable tool on summer cottage or in a private home. It easily copes with cutting thick branches, boards and different material made of wood. Even the most reliable tool has its own degree of wear, and periodically requires repairing minor or major damage. Do-it-yourself electric saw repair is only possible in some cases and with certain skills and tools. Often the tool has to be sent for service. But there are some breakdowns that can be easily fixed on your own.

Overview of the design of an electric chain saw

In order to master the skills of repairing electric saws, you need to understand their design. The main element that cuts the material is the saw chain, which is driven by a motor. The chain itself is a set of cutting links that are fastened together by hinges. The chain moves along a plate called a tire. This part is made of high quality steel, which is not susceptible to chips, scratches and corrosion - this is the main indicator of the quality of the tool. Tires are classified by design:

• welded;
• solid with removable tip;
• solid with a tip made of carbide materials.

A welded tire is something similar to a “sandwich” that is welded from three components into one, while the driven sprocket is riveted into the structure. One-piece design with replaceable tip - single sheet product, ideal for tools long length. In such a tire, the main load falls on the roller bearing of the driven sprocket. The one-piece configuration reduces friction losses by 8-10%. If a tool with a solid tire made of carbide materials, then it is optimally suited for working with high load, as well as for operation in conditions where there is a large amount of sand, dust and dirt.

1. When working with an electric saw of any configuration, it is necessary to remember the possibility of a “kickback” - the tool being thrown towards the person performing the work. This situation occurs if the very end of the saw bar rests on the material being processed. To avoid injury in such a situation, manufacturers equip saws with an automatic chain brake.

2. An automatic chain brake is also called an inertial drive, which operates thanks to a shield located in front of the left hand of the person performing the work. Before starting work, this shield is placed in a position closer to the hand so that, if necessary, it can be quickly activated. If a kickback moment occurs, the operator’s hand rests on this shield and the chain stops. The position also changes due to the inertia arising from the impact. This system makes it possible to reduce the likelihood of repairing electric chain saws, since the main mechanism will not be damaged during an impact.

3. Another system that prevents wear and damage is automatic chain lubrication. Oil is poured into a special reservoir, which during operation of the saw is transferred through an oil pump to the drive sprocket and chain. Some models even have an oil supply regulator, since different amounts of oil are required for different work intensities. For example, repairing a Makita electric saw involves inspecting the oil supply system.

4. Electric motor chain saws have some disadvantages or weak points. One of them is the design of the gearbox. Torque is transmitted to the chain through a gearbox, which has a rigid connection with the armature of the electric motor. This design transfers all the loads to the motor, that is, if the workpiece contains hard inserts or the saw chain is dull, it will not glide so smoothly over the surface. The result of this will be overheating of the motor or wear of some of its parts. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to sharpen the saw in a timely manner and not put pressure on it while working. Often come to service repair Parma electric saws with this kind of malfunction.

5. The second weak point of saws with an electric motor is the dependence on the network voltage. If it drops, the load on the motor increases; in models that are not equipped with thermal protection of the motor, the increasing load leads to its combustion. But temperature rise protection also has disadvantages, since at low voltage it is triggered, reducing performance. For example, repairing an Interskol electric saw often comes down to just increasing the voltage in the network, after which the tool functions properly.

Review of possible malfunctions of electric saws

1. If the saw does not turn on, you need to check the presence of power and the integrity of the wires and connections.
2. If everything is fine in the power supply, you need to check the chain brake, which blocks the operation of the tool. To fix this problem, you need to move the brake flap to a different position.
3. If the measures described above do not turn on the saw, then you need to check the integrity of the cable and plug.
4. If the power of the saw has decreased or productivity has dropped, it is necessary to replace the carbon brushes, which are apparently worn out.
5. Quite often the chain does not start to stop immediately, but after a certain period of time. The longer the saw is used, the longer this time period becomes. To get rid of this problem, you need to replace the saw's brake band, which has worn out over time.
6. Often an unpleasant, ear-cutting sound appears when the saw is operating. This sound often appears due to a lack of oil in the mechanism or due to contamination of the grooves that conduct it. Fixing the problem is simple - add oil and clean the grooves.
7. It is important to use only original spare parts for repairs that are recommended by the manufacturer. If you use spare parts from third-party companies, this often leads to tool failure or dangerous situations.
8. If there is damage to the body, then for your own safety the saw must be sent in for repair.
9. Do not replace cutting parts of the tool that are not recommended by the manufacturer or are not suitable for the design.

Sharpening a power saw

One of the elements of the saw that you need to monitor yourself is the chain. It must be sharpened preventively, since if this process is delayed, the repair electric chain saw It will no longer be possible to produce it with your own hands. It must be sent to a service center, where it will be sharpened on professional machines.

1. Extending the service life of the saw element:

• Before starting work, you must make sure that there are no hard metal objects in the workpiece. If the cutting element comes into contact with metal object, then a jagged or chip will remain on the chain, which can no longer be removed;

• work cannot be carried out on the ground, as digging into the ground will clog the oil grooves, as a result of which the chain will be left without normal lubrication and will wear out faster;
• It is necessary to monitor the saw wedge; it should not be allowed, as this overheats the metal and reduces its service life.

2. How to determine that a saw needs sharpening. To do this, just pay attention to the chips - if they are small and slightly darker, then the chain is dull. This is explained by the fact that blunt edges do not remove the necessary cutting layer, which leads to chip crushing. Also, the quality of saw sharpening is determined based on visual inspection, there should be no radii on the saw part, no damage in the form of torn areas, the shape of the tooth and cutting edge should be the same as on a new tool.

If all these factors do not answer necessary requirements, then the saw requires sharpening. If you continue to work on a dull saw, this will affect the performance, as well as the service life of the saw. When the elements are sharpened, the load on the motor increases, it overheats and all its elements wear out faster than the specified period.

3. How to sharpen a power saw yourself:

• for sharpening you need a special tool, this is a set of round and oval files, a mandrel and a gauge;
• sometimes the set additionally includes a hook for cleaning the chain slots from shavings;
• a round file is combined with a mandrel;
• a flat file and gauge are used separately;
• the chain is sharpened on the saw blade itself;

• the mandrel is placed on the edge of the cutting tooth, while taking into account the sharpening angle of the chamfer;
• The sharpening angle is set to 30 or 10o, setting the angle is the most difficult process corrections, since if the angle is set incorrectly, the tool will be damaged;

• When sharpening, the file is positioned perpendicular to the shank; it protrudes slightly above the tooth when sharpening;
• sharpening takes place in one direction, that is, only in a translational motion, not in a reciprocating motion;
• when one tooth is sharpened, the chain is turned and the next tooth begins to be sharpened;
• after all the edges of the teeth have been processed with a file, the processing of the limiting cut begins - a protrusion on the chain that does not have cutting edges, they are located on the same plate with the tooth. The function of this part is to form a recess when cutting;

• if the cut stops protrude too much, the chain will not cut, but will only slide; if they are too deep, the wood will jam the cutting part of the tool;
• The cutting stops are adjusted using a gauge, which is applied to the edge of the cutting teeth, while end strip is level with the limiter;
• if the limiter protrudes, then it must be trimmed; this is done with an ordinary flat file;
• move the file along the limiter in a perpendicular plane in one direction.

4. Sharpening the saw on the machine:

• for sharpening on a machine, the chain is removed from the shank;
• the chain is installed on the machine guide and tensioned with a roller and ratchet, which hold it by the cutting tooth;
• the machine has a protractor that sets the sharpening angle;
• the abrasive wheel is lowered, with its help a small layer of metal is removed - about a few tenths of a millimeter. This is the process of straightening and sharpening the chain;
• after editing one tooth, the guide is moved to the next one and so on;
• this type of sharpening allows you to withstand the rigid limits of editing and sharpening the tool;
• If you want to purchase such a machine for yourself, then it is recommended to purchase not the electric version, but the manual one, since its cost is much lower. The machine allows you to postpone the repair of Bosch electric saws and any other manufacturers.

Some rules for working with electric saws

1. Electric chainsaws are designed to operate at maximum speed and should always be operated at full throttle to improve performance.
2. You should not cut at a right angle away from yourself; you should hold the saw slightly at an angle from the body.
3. It is necessary to follow the instructions for repairing the electric saw, and also purchase only those spare parts recommended by the manufacturer.
4. Before transporting the saw, you must turn off the engine; keep the bar and chain behind you when carrying it; you must pack the saw in the casing before transportation.
5. Do not operate the saw above shoulder level as this increases the risk of an accident.
6. If the saw is jammed in the material, it must be removed from there very carefully. The buoyant force acting on the saw increases when the upper part is clamped, which is quite dangerous for the operator.
7. When working with a log framed by thin branches, you should act very carefully, since thin material in some cases is clamped by a tire and tilted towards the person performing the work.
8. It is strictly forbidden to use a faulty, unadjusted or incompletely assembled tool.
9. Before starting work, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the saw switch.
10. It is necessary to constantly monitor the tension of the chain, since if it is poorly tensioned, then the risk of it jumping off the guides increases, this leads not only to injury, but also to breakdown of the device.
11. Repair of electric saws Partner, like any other saws, is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service center, since independent repairs lead to serious problems in the future.

Electric saw Makita UC4030A with a 5-meter cord (Fig. 1). I bought it to make work at the dacha easier, because I was tired of cutting down dry trees. It showed excellent performance, with the exception of the oil supply system, but more on that later.

Rice. 1

Rice. 2-5. We unscrew the flag of the tire fastening screw, loosen the tire a little with it, then loosen the chain with the tensioner screw, then unscrew the sprocket cover with the tire fastening screw and remove the cover, and then the tire with the chain.

Rice. 2

Rice. 3

Rice.4

Rice. 5

Rice.6

Rice. 6,9,10. We unscrew the two screws securing the engine, on the other side you need to unscrew two more screws, having first removed the oil tank cap for convenience. After that, we disconnect the engine from the gearbox.

Rice. 9

Rice.10

Rice. 11, 13 Remove the lock washer from the sprocket shaft, then the washer and take out the sprocket.

Rice.11

Rice.13

Rice. 14, 15. Unscrew the 6 screws securing the handle and the gear stop and remove them.

Rice.14

Rice.15

Rice. 16. Turn the gearbox over and remove the cover.

Rice.16

Rice. 17, 19, 20. Pull the tube off the oil pump, remove the oil tank, press the chain brake lever towards the braking direction until it clicks, then remove it.

Rice.17

Rice.19

Rice. 20

Rice. 21-26. Turn the gearbox over and remove the aluminum cover along with the driven shaft. And there we see that there is little lubricant in the gearbox, and a lot of sawdust, but it should be the other way around. It’s clear with sawdust, the aluminum cover is adjacent to the plastic case only in three points, therefore, between the cover and the body there are three slots through which sawdust flies in and grease flies out. On the driven gear, lubrication is only on the periphery, and the drive gear is completely dry.

Rice. 21

Rice. 22

Rice. 23

Rice. 24

Rice. 25

Rice. 26

Rice. 27, 28. Clean all gearbox parts.

Rice. 27

Rice. 28

Rice. 29, 30, 31. Remove the pump plunger and the pump itself.

Rice. 29

Rice.30

Rice. 32. Taking the pump by both sides with our hands, we try to rotate both parts in different directions, while simultaneously pulling one out of the other. The pump should disconnect.

Rice.32

Rice. 33. Now it's time for the pump. Inspect all parts carefully. The ball and spring should be freely removable, the rubber ring should be where it is in the picture. My ball bit a ring in the square (left side) of the pump due to a small step in the housing. The pump is the most capricious part of the saw. For some it pours oil, for others it does not pump oil at all. This topic was discussed on the forum of the website www.makita.com.ru. If oil leaks, then it is the ball that is to blame. We need to bet more. Or pour thicker oil. If it doesn’t pump, then grab some air. The pump does not like air very much due to the fact that there is only one check valve. If there is air in the tube, the plunger will push it back and forth. There is an exit. It is necessary either to create excess pressure in the oil tank (with your mouth, with a pump) so that the oil itself pushes air, or to create a vacuum in the outlet channel after the pump using a syringe. The last method works well.

Rice.33

Rice. 34,35,36. You need to make sure that the brake mechanism is in the braking position; if not, then put on the lever and move it to the forward position until it clicks. In this position, the spring tension is minimal and it can be pryed off with a screwdriver, but preferably while wearing gloves. We take out the spring and rods.

Rice.34

Rice.35

Rice.36

Rice. 37, 38. Unscrew the screw and remove the brake band.

Rice.37

Rice.38

Rice. 39. Remove the tube from the tank.

Rice.39

Rice. 40-44. To eliminate the gap between the lid and the body, I found a washer with a bent edge along the diameter of the body, cut out the technological holes, grooves, and screwed the washer to the lid. Seal the places where the stops protrude through the washer with sealant.

Rice. 40

Rice. 41

Rice. 42

Rice. 43

Rice. 44

Rice. 45. Apply some lubricant to the drive gear. I squeezed out half the tube. When the sealant hardens, I spread it over the gear and, if necessary, add more. One hell of a lot, the centrifugal force will scatter it in the corners.

Rice. 45

Rice. 46, 47. Remove the drive gear from the engine shaft. We take out the brushes.

Rice. 46

Rice. 47

Rice. 48. Unscrew 6 screws on one side and one on the other.

Rice. 48

Rice. 49-51. Remove the cover. The engine rotor is removed with little effort.

Rice. 49

Rice.50

Rice.51

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Good luck with the renovation!!

All the best, writeto © 2014

Electric saws are preferred for one good reason - they are very light and therefore easy to use. Of course, you won’t go far into the forest with her, - network cable won't let me in. But for use near the house (for sawing logs, preparing firewood, pruning trees, during construction and repairs) the best tool can not found.

During operation, especially with frequent use, it begins to act up: it makes strange sounds, smells, does not brake on time or does not turn on at all. Nothing can be done - any technical device not forever. And every working day shortens his life. But there are breakdowns that only professional service can handle (for example, the case is damaged). And there are cases when you can revive an electric saw with your own hands, with effort, knowledge and skill.

We have made a selection practical advice How to repair a saw yourself without contacting a specialist.

Any breakdown does not occur on empty space. Its roots often lie in poor assembly and quality, or in improper operation. If you buy a high-quality tool from a reliable manufacturer, then “ruining” it is not so easy. But still, most often malfunctions arise due to:

Power surges in the network. If the instrument has built-in fuses - protection against voltage surges, then it will withstand deviations from 220 V by 10% in one direction or the other. Not more. If there is no protection, the motor burns out.

Untimely lubrication. The vast majority of electric saws have automatic lubrication. Make sure you don't run out of oil. Remember that running “dry” is death for the motor. If oil does not automatically flow to the sprocket, then lubricate it yourself every 3-5 hours of operation.

Power overload. If it happens, it’s also your fault, not the manufacturer’s. If it is stated that you can cut logs up to 5 cm in diameter, then cutting a ten-centimeter trunk is clearly overkill.

Design flaws. This is already an oversight by the manufacturer. The most common disadvantage is the rigid coupling of the gearbox with the anchor. When transferring a strong load (dull tape or hard wood), it jams and heats up. Gears wear out quickly. The way out of the situation is to sharpen it in time and avoid overload.

What you need to know before repairing

"Golden Rule self-repair- use only original parts and spare parts. If you try to install inappropriate elements of a different brand and configuration, then this is a 100% guarantee of future breakdown and failure of the electric saw.
Before you repair a tool, create the necessary base for yourself. You will need:

1. Original factory parts from the same manufacturer.
2. Pliers, wrenches
3. Electrical tester, voltmeter.
4. Soldering iron.
5. Round and oval files, mandrel and sharpening gauge.
6. A machine for sharpening a chain (this is ideal, you can sharpen it manually).

What to do if the device shows no signs of life at all? If the saw does not turn on, it is possible:
- low voltage in the network. Measure with a voltmeter. If below 180, connect the equipment through a voltage stabilizer. Sometimes, when networks are installed, it is recommended to buy a good generator with an AVR, and power all power tools from it.
- the power cable is damaged. You need to check the cord and all connections. Replace or solder the gap and insulate.
- the start button does not work. Disassemble. Repair or replace. Sometimes, if the button is faulty, the power is turned on directly, but this option is not suitable for an electric saw - safety is critically reduced.
The chain brake has activated. Check it out. It turns on at a certain position of the brake element shield. The shield should be moved back a little.
- the thermal protection relay has tripped. Possibly if you turn on an overheated device. It needs to cool down, and perhaps the relay itself needs repair.
- carbon brushes are worn out. Frequent malfunction. Happens even in almost new instruments. Usually there is a loss of power first. Replace the graphite contacts with new ones.
- damage to the motor windings. The windings are destroyed due to overheating. Need to rewind. This is quite a complex process. It is necessary to disassemble the motor, remove the burnt winding and clean the insulation from the grooves. And then make everything yourself reverse order. And to wind the coil, they use winding machine. In general, if you are an electrical master, then go for it. If not, take it to service.

Often, when the saw is operating, the user hears an unpleasant, cutting sound in the ear, and smells a burning smell. This is what we talked about at the very beginning of the article - lack of oil in the mechanism. Check with a dipstick: if the crankcase is full, it means the conductive channels are dirty. Fixing the problem is simple - add oil or clean the furrows.
Quite often the instrument begins to “glitch” when stopped. It does not stop immediately, but after a while. The longer the saw is in use, the longer this time period becomes. To fix the problem, you need to replace the brake band. It's just worn out and stretched out.
Sometimes, while sawing, the device suddenly begins to vibrate strongly and lose power. You already know the reason - the brushes are worn out. If you do not replace it, the saw will soon stop turning on.
The chain does not rotate. Here possible malfunctions some:
- the teeth of the plastic gear are “licked off”. It is part of the gearbox and is the first to take the blow in case of critical overloads. And that's great! It is better to replace the gear than to throw away a burnt out motor or, worse, get injured. When replacing a worn one with a new one, lubricate the gear well with oil.
- wear of other parts (drive sprocket, cam, spring, clutch cup, bearing). Having identified a worn or crumbled part, replace it with an original spare part.
- chain tension is incorrectly adjusted. The situation occurs with both key and keyless tension. The instruction manual always describes how to properly tighten the chain and check its tension.

It's hard to believe, but almost half of the breakdowns occur due to a dull chain. It entails an increase in load on the motor, its overheating and premature wear. When the sawing band is dull, the gears of the gearbox, drive sprocket, bearings, etc. break.
The first sign of dullness is dark and fine sawdust. The teeth can't be removed desired layer, so the chips will be crushed. If you examine such a saw, you can see defects on the edge and even torn pieces.
Masters advise sharpening your saw as often as possible. If you delay this process, you will need to take the device to a workshop. Sharpening a file at home is possible using a special machine or manually.
If you sharpen regularly, you can do it yourself, following the rules:

• Sharpening should not be done directly on the ground, as dirt can clog the oil grooves.
• Use sharpening devices: files (circle and oval), mandrel and gauge.
• The sharpening angle should be greater than 30 degrees.
• The file should protrude slightly above the tooth.
• Sharpen the teeth one at a time, turning the tape.
• Having sharpened the teeth, using a gauge, you should straighten the cuts (protrusions that are responsible for deepening during the sawing process).
• If the cuts protrude slightly beyond the line of the teeth, then they can simply be filed off with a file.

As you can see, troubleshooting is easy, but also difficult. Remember that when correct operation and maintenance, the need for repairs will arise much less frequently.

The most popular electric saws

IN household, especially in a private home or country house, a tool such as a saw is simply necessary. To work with the old “friendship-2” you need an assistant. Even cut several stackers of firewood strong men manually will be difficult and time consuming.

It is very convenient to work with a modern electric chain saw. It will easily and quickly cut through thick branches and boards, and will help you cope with the preparation of firewood for the winter alone. Like any mechanism, a power saw requires proper maintenance and compliance. technical specifications operation. You must constantly monitor the nominal chain tension, the presence of special oil in the tank, periodically the chain teeth require sharpening.

Follow the advice of experienced owners of such tools - do not buy cheap electric saws from dubious manufacturers. IN best case scenario such a tool will last one to two seasons, and the cost of repairs will be comparable to the price of a new tool.

However, even the most reliable and high-quality tool can fail for various reasons. A power saw is not a trouble-free and reliable Kalashnikov assault rifle. There are many components and parts in a power tool that are subject to a certain load during operation. Problems may arise from time to time. If you do not have the skills to repair electrical units or the breakdown is quite serious, you should contact service center.Do you know that when purchasing a tool you should pay attention to the warranty documents. During the warranty period, in case of any malfunction, even a minor one, do not under any circumstances open the body of the power saw. Warranty repairs of electric saws must be carried out only in a workshop from the selling company.

After the warranty period expires, you can perform minor repairs to the power tool yourself. This requires knowledge in mechanics and electrical engineering. You will need some tools and equipment.

Electric chain saw device

To properly maintain, adjust and renovation work It is important to know its structure and the principle of operation and operation of protective devices.

Main cutting element is a saw chain that is driven by an electric motor. The chain consists of a number of individual links with cutting teeth. The chain links are hinged. The saw chain is fixed with a certain tension on the plate (bar). By design, the tires can be welded, solid with a replaceable tip, or with a tip made of refractory metal. The latter are of the highest quality and can withstand heavy loads.

Possible malfunctions of chain saws

In case of failure, you should check:

• If the tool does not turn on. Check the voltage in the network, the integrity of the cable and connections.
• Check the saw chain locking brake. The saw kickback protection system may be activated. Move the brake flap to the working position.
• If the saw does not develop rated power and operates jerkily, and the motor commutator sparks, check the condition of the carbon brushes. They should be replaced.
• If the usual sound of the saw has changed and has begun to “cut your ear,” check for the presence of oil in the barrel. Important Use only special chain saw oil recommended by the tool manufacturer.

Periodically it is necessary to sharpen the saw chain. if you have special device, then you can sharpen the teeth yourself. However, it is better to have several spare chains and trust a specialist to sharpen them. This will give a guarantee efficient work electric saws.

The main task of the gutter of any house is to remove any amount of water from the roof. Therefore, when designing and building a house, it is necessary to calculate it correctly. In this article we will tell you in detail how to do this.

During construction multi-storey building sheds are often used to store tools and accommodate working personnel. It is not advisable to erect a full-fledged building, and dismantle everything after construction is completed; it is much more profitable and faster to use cabins made from container blocks.

Like any tool, Makita electric saws require maintenance. From time to time it is necessary to replace those parts that have become very worn out. This applies to any product in the line, be it the Makita UC3520A with a motor power of 1800 W or the UC4530A with a motor power of 2000 W. If you do not pay attention to some points when inspecting and preparing the saw for work, the device may even break.

Preparation is carried out in several stages:

1. Since the device is quite massive, for example, the UC4530A weighs 4.3 kg, we place it on the table and use a special wrench (supplied) to unscrew the fastening nut. Then remove the sprocket boot.
2. Scroll the bolt with which the chain is adjusted in the direction opposite to the movement of the hand on the clock. The pin should go into the leftmost position.
3. We pass the chain between the gear teeth and wrap it around the sprocket. At the top of the tire, the teeth should be in the direction of the arrow.
4. We put the tire back. The pin must fit exactly into the tire hole.
5. Reattach the sprocket cover and lightly tighten the fastening nut by hand.
6. Check that the saw chain is properly tensioned. To do this, lift the end of the bar, then turn the chain screw to adjust, now in a clockwise direction. Be careful that the chain should be pressed tightly against the bottom of the bar.
7. All that remains is to lubricate the tire thoroughly and saw chain. To do this, you need to use special chain oil that has an adhesive additive and is biodegradable. The additive prevents liquid from being thrown out. Oil must be filled to the lower level of the filler neck. Make sure that no dirt gets into the oil tank. To do this, clean the filler neck before filling.
8. Screw the tank cap back into place. Turn on the saw and let it run without load for 2 minutes to gradually lubricate the chain mechanism with oil.

Having completed all stages of preparing the makita uc4030a saw for work, carefully wipe it from any remaining oil. Do not use mineral oils under any circumstances, otherwise you will have to breathe in harmful fumes while working.

Review: Makita UC3503A electric chain saw - Useful, reliable, ergonomic device

Advantages:

Convenience, ergonomics, elegance and reliability

Flaws:

Chain and blade lubrication required

When there is a substantial garden at a summer cottage, when you have to prepare firewood for a bed on autumn-spring periods when you have to do construction works at the dacha, it is advisable to have good saw. Of course, you can get by with a regular two-handed saw, but this is currently not productive. Therefore on family council It was decided to buy a manual electric household chain saw.

Power saw Makita

Were viewed on the Internet various models such a device is the most famous brands. The choice fell on the Makita company, although it was more expensive than the same saw from other companies (10,000 rubles). When I picked up this saw for the first time in the store, I realized that the choice had been made correctly.

Sleek shape, good alignment, comfortable and reliable hand grips that force the body to be in the safest position relative to the cut, safety devices that increase work safety are emphasized high quality saws. The very shape of the saw clearly demonstrated the aggressive dynamics of the saw. She didn't want to let go of her hands.
I've been using the saw for over five years. There are no complaints or comments about the operation of the saw, although at first it seemed too fragile. Practice has confirmed its reliability. Maintenance The device is very simple. Don't forget to add oil to lubricate the chain and periodically sharpen the chain. I have two chains. Therefore, when I feel some cutting heaviness, I simply replace the dull cutting chain and turn the saw blade 180 degrees. Replacing the chain is very simple using the key supplied with the saw. If the chain starts to heat up, you need to clear the sawdust from the space where the mechanical drive gear is located, which rotates the cutting chain. During the sawing process, it is necessary to avoid jamming (pinching) of the chain in the cut.

Electric saws Makita (Makita)

Makita UC3530A in our store: https://www.klondayk.com.ua/ru/products/details/elektropila_makita_uc3530a/index.html

The Makita UC 3530 A universal electric saw will come in handy in your homestead, garden or construction site. This model is different high performance, reliability and durability, and in addition to everything, it is very comfortable to use. The electric saw is equipped with a quick-acting device for tensioning the chain and removing the bar without the use of keys, which not only improves productivity, but also eliminates the need to constantly carry additional keys.

The Makita UC 3530 A electric saw is controlled using convenient and understandable buttons and levers. Thanks to design features This model is easy to maintain. The use of sealed ball bearings and a special gearbox lubrication system ensures long-term operation of the electric saw without specialized maintenance.

In order to increase the safety of the saw, the developers have provided this model with an inertial chain brake, which protects the user from accidental injury as a result of a “kickback”. This system ensures that the chain stops in a fraction of a second - even before a “thrown” tool can “overtake” the user and cause injury. To protect the network from overloads and to prevent premature wear of the mechanism, the Makita UC3530A saw has a built-in electronic system starting current limitations.

The Makita UC 3530 A electric saw is equipped with a powerful engine with a longitudinal arrangement, providing high speed sawing 13.3 m/s. Thanks to the longitudinal arrangement of the motor, the tool is compact and perfectly balanced. Comfortable rubberized handles provide maximum control over the saw during operation. The saw is equipped with an automatic chain lubrication system (the capacity of the built-in oil tank is 0.14 liters), which extends the service life of the saw set and the tool as a whole. Visual level control lubricant carried out through a transparent viewing window.

Chainsaws today find application in a wide range of areas. This relatively simple tool is necessary in everyday life to solve a wide variety of problems. You can order the Makita UC3530A electric saw in the Klondike online store.

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Specifications

Reviews of the Makita UC4030A electric chain saw

Advantages

• No tools are required to remove the chain bar. Automatic chain lubrication. Did an excellent job of felling a birch tree 60 cm in diameter. Uses almost any oil, despite the fact that the instructions say to use only oil from the manufacturer. In general, an excellent saw for working in a summer cottage.

Flaws

• I haven’t found a single drawback for myself, except that after pouring oil into the tank, it sometimes leaks (not significantly), but is corrected by wiping the neck of the tank and the lid.

A comment
For me, this saw has become an excellent replacement for the Parma M saw (84 year of manufacture). Now you can safely forget about manually lubricating the chain and changing it directly using a tool. The only pity is that the drive sprocket of the chain can only be changed at a service center.
Repotraft, 2010-08-15 Grade 5

Advantages

Flaws

• After use, I started cleaning it, and somehow it happened that when I unscrewed the tire clamp, a clamping nut with a spring popped out. I managed to see well where it fell, otherwise I wouldn’t have found it in the grass. Be careful!!!

A comment
I sawed a 38 cm log like a knife going into butter. It works quietly, as it seemed after the gasoline one. And yet, I lost electricity at my dacha. In place of 220 only 170~190. I thought it wouldn't turn on at all. Everything was fine... I didn’t notice any differences from the gasoline one at all!
slovariks, 2011-09-05 Grade 5

Advantages

• Weight + weight distribution, convenient to use and maintain.

Flaws

A comment
I bought it about a month ago for my dacha (an average plot of ~20 acres, many trees), and in total it worked for 8-10 hours.
There were no problems during operation. The maximum diameter of the log was about 30 cm, on average 15-20 cm. It bites like butter, saws vigorously, did not bounce once (I had to cut at different angles/positions, including severely violating the manufacturer’s safety recommendations ( extremely carefully).
Easy to maintain! On the Internet I easily found the official catalog of spare parts with clear diagram— you can change all the consumables yourself if you suddenly need it during operation (a relative’s Makita 3501 has been working year-round for many years to prepare firewood for a bathhouse, they forgot to pour oil into it (forgot) and nothing... the tire is original, the chain was changed once, the brushes are not touched)!

4030 uses little oil, but I use thick Castrol Syntrax Universal transmission. For example, a friend’s Makita 4020, according to him, noticeably empties the tank + some of the oil leaks out during storage, which I did not find in the 4030!

Advantages

• Very convenient to use. It fits well in your hands and does not slip due to the rubberized handles. Doesn't roar very loudly. At least his ears aren't blocked. The chain moves smoothly and does not jerk. It also does not turn on abruptly. The power is on point - it gets the job done easily. Simple and unpretentious in maintenance. The security system is well thought out. Oil consumption is reasonable

Flaws

• It produces really good power only at the appropriate voltage. And sometimes it’s difficult to find it in the countryside. But if you, for example, a private house, there shouldn't be any problems. Well, I noticed a couple of times that the oil was leaking a little, not much, but still.