After prolonged use of the door leaf, its condition may deteriorate significantly. Dents, chips, cracks, and scratches appear. Paint may fade from direct sun rays, varnish - crack from mechanical stress. In order not to buy a new canvas, you can restore the old one. To do this, you need to know how to glue veneer at home. Using plates from valuable species wood, you can not only restore the sash, but also give it a new design.
Few people know how to glue veneer. This process consists of several key stages, each of which must be treated with special responsibility.
The first of these is preparation work surface. Veneering cannot be started on untreated old canvas.
Preparation:
- Remove the fabric from the loops. To do this, use a pry bar if the hinges are old or a screwdriver (new fasteners) if the screws are located at the end of the door.
- Place the canvases on two chairs or on the floor. The fittings need to be removed.
- When the handles, decorative elements and hinges are removed, clean the canvas from the old coating. You can remove it using construction hair dryer, iron and metal spatula.
- Level the cleaned surface to continue work. The bumps are polished coarsely sandpaper. Fill holes, cracks and chips with wood putty and wood glue. This is how you can restore doors made of stacked solid wood, MDF and chipboard.
Before preparatory work needs to be laid flooring plastic film. This will protect it from glue and putty stains.
Preparation and cutting of material
After the canvas is prepared for further work, you need to buy the material and cut it into pieces. Often during production, sheets of wood are produced and sold in rolls. If you purchased such material, you need to straighten it in advance. To do this, you need to straighten the roll, moisten the veneer with a damp sponge and place it between two sheets of plywood or drywall.
Advice! It is necessary to take measurements from the prepared canvas. When cutting a sheet of veneer, you must leave an additional 5 cm on each side. The reserve will help to avoid inaccuracies with incorrectly taken parameters.
To cut the material you need to use a plywood knife or plunge-cut saw. Using a power tool you can make the most even cut.
Do not use scissors when cutting veneer - the material may crack and become unusable.
What glue is best to use?
You also need to know how to choose veneer glue. It all depends on how smooth the surface is and what parts need to be glued. If you need to glue small elements, you can use regular PVA. When gluing complex parts to create beautiful joints, it is necessary to use special adhesive compositions for wood. Wood glue is well suited for gluing large surfaces.
Gluing methods
After the canvas has been prepared, the material has been cut to size, and the glue has been selected, you need to learn how to glue veneer at home. There are three ways to do this.
Cold contact method
Considered the most in a complicated way gluing wood to a treated surface. Involves the use of contact adhesive. The difficulty is that the binder sets quickly. This will make it extremely difficult to correct inaccuracies when mating surfaces are placed incorrectly.
In order for the gluing to be reliable, it is necessary to create a strong pressing force in the first seconds of contact between the materials (press with your hand or a weight). Experts do not recommend using it for gluing large surfaces.
Hot gluing
A layer of glue is applied to the surfaces to be glued, which must dry for a certain period of time. After this, it is necessary to attach a sheet of veneer exactly to the dimensions. Using an iron, the sheet begins to be smoothed from the center to the edges. Adhesive composition under influence high temperature melts and bonds the two materials.
For the contact hot gluing method to work, it is necessary to use an adhesive with a thick consistency. To prevent the glue from drying too quickly when using an iron, you need to wet the veneer surface warm water. In places where there are swellings, punctures or cuts must be made to release the air.
Cold gluing with pressing
A classic gluing method that requires securing clamps to the glued surfaces. The holding time is indicated on the packaging of the composition used. After drying, it is necessary to remove the clamps and check the condition of the door ends.
Now you know how to glue veneer. In order for the work to proceed without difficulty, it is necessary to take into account the recommendations and advice of the veneerers:
- When using veneer made from expensive wood species (oak, ash), it is necessary to apply a layer of cotton fabric to the canvas.
- The new surface can only be sanded along the grain with sandpaper.
- Since the new coating absorbs water well, immediately after gluing it must be covered with a layer of varnish.
- When using an iron, you need to constantly move it across the work surface. It is forbidden to delay the heated metal surface at one place. If scorching occurs, it is necessary to remove the blackness sharp knife or a blade.
- To secure a long strip of veneer to an edge, you need to secure one of the edges using an iron or hair dryer. It is convenient to use a soldering iron to secure edges and corners.
- Covering radius doors should be entrusted to old furniture veneerers.
- The joined veneer panels made of different breeds wood
- At the ends located at the bottom and top of the blade, it is necessary to cut off 2 mm chamfers on both sides. The sash will not cling to the frame after gluing the new wooden covering.
- When cutting a sheet with a knife, it is recommended to do so across the grain. If the sheet is cut lengthwise, it is necessary to make several movements with the blade. Otherwise, the cutting part of the knife will slip and ruin the sheet.
By following the basic rules, you can carry out the work without difficulty.
The skill of veneering can be useful not only for restoration door leaves. New wood sheets can be used to change the design wooden furniture. You can cover it with any color of paint for wooden surfaces. The main thing is to apply varnish or plastic film to protect the veneer from the damaging effects of moisture.
Quite often, people carrying out repairs or working with wood may need to stick veneer onto the surfaces being treated. At the same time, it is very important to know how to glue veneer correctly, because the final appearance of the surface that is being pasted depends on this.
The preliminary stage consists of inspecting, leveling and cleaning the surfaces on which they plan to glue the veneer. If there are unevenness and damage on this surface, they must be eliminated using a plane or sandpaper with varying degrees of grit. If the tree releases resins, they must be removed and the area washed with a solution of soda or acetone. Before you start gluing veneer, you need to make sure that the surface of the wood is completely clear of debris, dust or small sawdust. If they get under the veneer, it can lead to poor-quality sizing or the appearance of tubercles. Optimal humidity For veneer, humidity is considered to be about 8-10%.
The best types of glue for gluing veneer are bone or protein based glue. IN industrial scale, veneer gluing occurs using heated hydraulic presses. In small workshops or at home, it is possible to perform this procedure manually. Before properly gluing veneer, a small layer of glue must be applied to completely cleaned and prepared surfaces using a stiff brush. In this case, it is important to completely coat the entire surface, but not to allow large sagging or lumps of glue. Places that will bear increased load (corners, ends and edges) must be coated especially carefully. After a few minutes for the glue to dry, you can begin the process of applying veneer sheets. After applying, the veneer must be carefully smoothed using a damp piece of cloth. The lapping process consists of smoothing the surface with glued veneer with an iron or lapping hammer, with an operating temperature of 150-200 degrees. This procedure is necessary to warm up the glue and improve its adhesion. Grinding must be done from the middle to the edge; it is unacceptable to leave air bubbles or excess glue under the veneer.
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Directions for use
Titebond Cold Press for Veneer adhesive is specifically designed for bonding veneer and is not suitable for other types of assembly. It is not recommended for outdoor use or where moisture is expected. The adhesive cannot be used when the temperature of the adhesive, the materials being bonded, and environment below 10°C. Freezing does not affect the quality of the glue, but may cause it to thicken. Stirring returns the product to its original state. Read the safety data sheet before use. Note: Before use, stir the product until it is homogeneous. Do not let the glue freeze.
Caution: Irritating to eyes and skin. Contains oxydipropyl dibenzoate. Do not swallow. Avoid contact with eyes or skin. First aid: If swallowed, do not induce vomiting, consult a doctor. If contact with eyes occurs, rinse with water for 15 minutes. Wash affected areas of skin with soap and water. If eye or skin irritation continues, consult a doctor. For getting additional information refer to the safety data sheet. Keep away from children!
Best before date. 12 months in original packaging at 22°C
If we talk in simple words, then veneering is gluing thin plates of wood with a beautiful structure (actually) onto wooden base- be it a table, wall or door - of lower decorative qualities. It turns out that veneering furniture means dressing it in beautiful clothes.
Veneering is more correctly called veneering. But it just so happens that the slang word “veneer” is more familiar to the average person’s ear than “veneer.”
Why veneer furniture?
Two main points can be highlighted.
Firstly, price. You can veneer a pine table with your own hands, “turning” it into oak, while appearance will hardly be inferior to real oak. But the price will be much lower. And if you remember that it does not dry out, does not deform, and is not affected by moisture and temperature, then you should seriously think about whether it is worth spending money on furniture made from valuable wood?
Secondly, ample opportunities design. Do-it-yourself veneering allows you to turn a tattered window sill into a new one, and a boring cabinet into a completely new one. new thing in Art Nouveau style without special costs, just by applying veneering.
Veneering: types
There are several main types of veneering, let's take a brief look at them.
- Hot veneering. With this method, the veneer is glued to the base using adhesives. The most accessible method for home conditions, it will be discussed in the article.
- Cold veneering. Here the veneer is pressed onto the base. It's about about pressing machines or screw clamps, which not every home owner has.
- Membrane veneering. An industrial method used for veneering complex surfaces. Membrane veneering is based on vacuum joining of veneer and boards - both smooth and textured.
How to veneer yourself?
Let's move on to a step-by-step examination of the hot veneering process as the most acceptable at home.
Basic tools and materials:
-veneer
- the base that we will veneer
- plywood knife
- PVA glue
- iron (preferably an old, Soviet one)
- blank sheet of paper
- wooden block, roller (for grouting)
- emery cloth
- cutter
Do-it-yourself veneering: preparation
The base for do-it-yourself veneering must be perfectly flat; all defects must be repaired with putty or sydenticone glue. After the putty (glue) has dried, we clean the surface with sandpaper.
Before directly do it yourself veneer, it is necessary to prepare the veneer for work. Natural veneer is often deformed - twisted into a roll, warped, etc. Give veneer sheets correct position not difficult: moisten the veneer with a damp sponge and place it under a press between layers of plywood. For absorption excess moisture Place wrapping paper between the veneer and plywood (on both sides of the veneer).
Now you need to take care of the size. Today, for finishing furniture and walls, planed veneer is most often used - long but narrow sheets (no wider than 30 cm). To cover, for example, a table, you need to prepare in advance pieces of veneer of the required length - as a rule, it should protrude slightly beyond the edges of the base (at the end, the excess can be cut off and sanded). It is not recommended to cut veneer with a knife or scissors - it will crack or be cut unevenly. It is better to use a plywood knife or planer.
Do-it-yourself veneering: gluing
Do-it-yourself veneering at the next stage involves gluing the veneer and base.
For DIY veneering, PVA-based glue is perfect. You can read more about wood adhesives.
So, we apply glue to the veneer, and on the base we coat an area of the appropriate size with glue. Experts advise applying glue twice: the first time should be dried until almost completely dry, when the glue practically does not stick, and the second time should be dried until it is tacky. Double coating with glue guarantees a “death grip”.
But if for some reason, when veneering with your own hands, you decide to coat the veneer and base with glue once, wait at least 10 minutes for the glue to dry.
Next, we will use the ability of PVA glue to exhibit fluidity when heated: we heat the iron to medium temperature, about 50 degrees (but you cannot bring the glue to a boil, this will nullify all its functions), and iron the veneer through a sheet of white paper (for those with little experience). Immediately after using the iron, we begin to work wooden block, roller: grind, compress the veneer and base.
Veneering with your own hands it is necessary so that the veneer sheets overlap by 3-4 mm. When gluing, pay attention to the joints Special attention: as if pressing it with an iron.
Now we determine whether we have created voids or places that were not captured by glue: we simply lightly drum our nails on the veneer. If a defect is detected, iron the area again. It didn’t help - you’ll have to cut the swelling with a thin cutter and fill it with glue (with a syringe, for example).
Do-it-yourself veneering: the end of the process
A few hours after veneering with your own hands (directly gluing), when the object has dried, we begin trimming and sanding the excess.
I would like to say a few words about how to sand veneered surfaces. At the joints of veneer sheets, as a rule, there is a little PVA glue. While areas without glue are easy to sand, areas with glue form sticky pellets, but are not sanded. The result may be unevenness, so pay attention to the glue issue from the beginning.
When using veneer, you need to be extremely careful - it is a thin material that can easily wear out (especially when using a grinder).
DIY veneering almost finished! Now only aesthetic aspects remain - coating, final finishing.
As you can see, do it yourself veneering at home not difficult at all. And if you still have questions, we hope that the video on how to veneer with your own hands will answer them!
Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board, correspondent of the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"
First of all, you need to inspect in detail the surfaces being coated and remove all irregularities, potholes, chips, as well as other damage and defects. It is better to sand the area.
In the case when coniferous lumber is used as a base, be sure to look for the presence of resin, it should also be scraped off with a knife and, for the sake of accuracy, rinsed with a solution (an aqueous 25% solution of acetone or an aqueous 5-6% solution of soda ash). Concentrate the concentration, Since the veneer does not stick well to the knots, it is better to drill them out and erase them, and seal such a space with glue plugs. The moisture content of the veneer should be in the range of 8-10%, and of the parts being veneered - 7-9%.
To level the surfaces of the base, it is possible to use putty of the following composition:
a) rosin - 60 segments zinc white - 30 segments wood flour - 10 segments Rosin must first be melted;
b) urea glue - 67 segments, wood flour - 33 parts.
For gluing veneer, it is best to use protein glues - flesh or bone.
When using prepared glue, be sure to check it. To do this, dip a wooden stick into the prepared mixture and, after mixing the glue, remove it. If an even, continuous, transparent stream flows from the stick, this is good glue and can be used. If, instead of a continuous stream, individual drops flow from the stick, then the glue is too liquid and cannot be used, since the veneer simply will not stick.
If the glue is too thick, the glue slides off the stick slowly, in clumps, or does not flow at all. You can't use this type of glue either. It will lie unevenly on the surface.
To obtain glue of the required thickness, add solid particles of glue in the first case and water in the second. Heat the glue in the glue bottle again to the desired state.
IN production conditions Usually veneer is glued in special hydraulic presses heated.
At home you will have to use manual method"very tightly". Its essence is as follows: apply to the prepared surface with a hard brush along the grain of the wood. thin layer glue, making sure that no lumps form and there are no uncoated areas.
After applying the glue, wait a short time for 3-4 minutes and apply veneer sheets.
Having placed the veneer on the base, you need to smooth it with a dampened rag, and then start lapping, and the lapping hammer or iron should be heated to a temperature of about 150-200 ° C, so that during lapping, the glue located under the veneer warms up again and gains stickiness. The veneer should be ground along the grain, from the middle to the edges.
It is very important that during grinding, excess glue and remaining air are squeezed out. Grinding is carried out until the veneer sheets are completely glued. Immediately remove any squeezed out excess glue with a damp cloth.
Sometimes veneer gluing is done as follows: a layer of glue is applied to the base and remains there until it dries. After about an hour, the surface of the glue is moistened with a dampened rag, veneer is applied and rubbed in with a heated iron. The veneer is glued very quickly and reliably.
You can assemble small sheets of veneer into a set before gluing required sizes. To do this, the veneer sheets are laid out according to the selection, face up, the trimmed edges are carefully joined and secured with adhesive tape. The set is turned over and can be applied to the surface to be tiled.
And yet, at home, preference is usually given to sticking individual small sheets onto the surface sequentially, one after the other. In this case, the sheets are usually glued from the middle of the surface to be coated to the edges. The glue is not applied to the entire surface at once, but only to the place where a specific sheet of veneer is glued (remember: we numbered and outlined the set).
The main difficulty when veneering with individual sheets may arise due to the fact that moistened veneer has the ability not only to curl, but also to expand across the grain. And therefore, after you have lapped the first sheet of the set and glued the next sheet next to it along the joint parallel to the grain, a fold will form from the expansion of the veneer.
If you rub this place again by moving the entire sheet, then after drying, when the veneer sheet shrinks slightly, the seam will separate. To prevent this, the subsequent sheet is not rubbed close to the previously glued one, but with a slight overlap on it. Once the veneer has expanded, the lap is cut by cutting through both sheets of veneer.
The cut strips of veneer are removed. The junction of both sheets is again rubbed with a heated iron. To ensure that the seam does not come apart when it dries, adhesive tape is glued over the seam, which is subsequently peeled off.
