How to install PVC panels for a toilet yourself, and why they are good

It just so happens that tiles traditionally reign in our bathrooms. There is nothing to say here; the cladding is certainly good and reliable. But such pleasure does not come cheap. Not counting the cost of the material itself, you often need to pay almost the same amount for installation, because not everyone can handle such work. But now there is an excellent alternative - PVC panels for the bathroom and toilet. Based on my own experience, then I will tell you why people love PVC panels so much and how to install this coating with your own hands in several options.

Why people choose PVC panels

I will not argue that covering a toilet with PVC panels is the best and almost the only possible option, but still, such cladding has much more advantages than disadvantages, judge for yourself:

Everyone knows that only wallpaper is lighter than plastic, therefore, any base will withstand such cladding. IN in this case It doesn’t matter at all what kind of walls you have, concrete (including newfangled foam and aerated concrete) or wood. The plastic will fit perfectly both on the walls and on the ceiling;

If you choose traditional frame installation, then you will not need to level the walls. Many people prefer not to even plaster. You can imagine how much the cost of the project is reduced;
Polyvinyl chloride material is absolutely resistant to any humidity, plus modern models Fungus and mold do not grow; they are initially covered with an antiseptic. Although you should not confuse moisture resistance with waterproofing, PVC cladding is an exceptionally good decorative coating, waterproofing is something else and, for example, in a bathroom, it will need to be equipped separately even before installing the plastic;
Caring for such panels is no more difficult than caring for tiles. A simple sponge and traditional detergent will suffice here;

Modern plastic has a wide palette of colors and textures; such cladding can imitate most popular coatings, in which it is significantly superior to the same tile;
And finally, self-finishing toilet PVC panels costs at least 3–5 times less than professional installation good tiles. Agree, it is difficult to argue with such an argument.

There are also negative aspects to this cladding, but they are quite controversial:

So opponents immediately point out that the plastic burns and at the same time releases toxic compounds. This is true, but modern panels are made of self-extinguishing material; a cigarette or a short circuit can only melt them; a strong fire is extremely unlikely. And if you are not going to barbecue or warm yourself by the fire in the toilet, then you have nothing to fear;

Some say that finishing with your own hands requires serious preparation, so, from own experience I can tell you for sure that they are lying to you. If you are able to drill a hole in the wall with a hammer drill, and are not afraid of a screwdriver and a hacksaw, then you can handle it quite well, such work will not be a problem for you;
The only one in my opinion real minus is a slight loss of usable space. The fact is that with frame installation you will actually lose at least 30 mm on each surface. Although we should not forget that there is also frameless option. I will also talk about this technology.

Technology and installation options for PVC panels

Like any similar work, repairing a toilet with PVC panels is divided into several main stages. This is, first of all, the choice of material, preparation of the base and the actual installation itself.

Finishing the toilet with PVC panels begins only after the floors are equipped, plumbing and doors are installed. All major parts, for example, a sink or heavy wall cabinet, attached to the base.
The most you can hang on a plastic covering is a small framed photo or a light mirror. On the ceiling, such a panel can still support a built-in LED spotlight.

A few words about the choice of material

The external data of the coating is, of course, important, but most bathrooms in domestic apartments do not shine in size, so I recommend paying primary attention to the strength of the panel. If this does not play a special role on the ceiling, then thin plastic on the wall can easily be pushed through by accidentally leaning on it or touching it with your elbow.

When choosing panels, pay attention to the front side. If internal stiffening ribs are visible on it, then you are dealing with thin, low-quality material and you should not take it.

In general, PVC panels are for external and interior decoration, we are naturally interested in the second option. The width of such planks varies from 120 mm to 500 mm.

Now let's talk about the material for the frame. If you have had to install drywall and you know how to handle UD and CD profiles, then such a frame will be an almost ideal option.

For people who are far from such work and are faced with installing a frame for the first time, I recommend using wooden slats. The minimum size of such slats is 20x25 mm. But if it's a loss for you usable area Since 10 mm does not play a big role, it is better to mount a frame from a 30x30 mm bar.

Do not skimp on connecting fittings; various kinds of corners, baseboards and fillets should be taken with a small margin. When cutting corners, it is very easy to make a mistake, and you definitely don’t want to run to the market for a new plank. Moreover, the price for such a product is quite affordable.

In addition to frames made of metal profiles and wooden blocks, such structures can be assembled from special guides with movable clamps. Such cladding is more expensive, but it is very easy to dismantle and reassemble if necessary.

Frame installation

First of all, remember that the frame guides are mounted perpendicular to the PVC facing strips. In wet rooms, such as a toilet with a bathtub, most often the panels are mounted vertically, respectively, the frame slats run horizontally. This is done so that water does not accumulate in the locks, but flows down along them.

As you understand, between the plastic coating and the wall we have a gap equal to the thickness of the frame planks. In a warm, damp, draft-free environment, it is simply a haven for fungus and other similar vegetation. Therefore, even before starting work, the entire room needs to be coated with an antiseptic a couple of times.

There are now quite a few similar compounds on the market, with a waterproofing effect. Although if you are dealing with a brick or classic concrete wall, then you can limit yourself to treating the surface with a solution two or three times copper sulfate, it's cheap and quite effective. Some people whiten it with lime; it dries well. But in both cases the result is quite decent.

Wood and aerated concrete must be covered with waterproofing primer deep penetration. Here it is better to use special compounds, they are different and all have instructions, so there is no point in writing about it.
Theoretically it can be painted oil paint, but it is not durable and such savings will cost more.

If the frame is made of wooden blocks, then they should also be well soaked with an antiseptic. Of course, you can spend money on a special composition, but I prefer to do it simpler, I cover it with working off a couple of times machine oil, cheap and effective. Such slats will last for decades and nothing will happen to them.

You need to start installing the frame by installing vertical support rails around the perimeter in all corners. This is the main skeleton of the structure; the guide fittings will be attached to it, so they need to be mounted clearly and plumb. If the wall is very crooked, then wooden wedges are placed under the planks.

Fastening of any frame strips is carried out according to the standard scheme. At first thin drill a series of through holes in the plank, so that the drill leaves a mark on the wall. After this, the plank is removed, and holes for plastic dowels are drilled in the designated places. When everything is ready, all you have to do is insert the dowels and secure the bar with self-tapping screws.

There's one here small nuance. Vertical guides should not rest against the floor and ceiling; a gap of about 5 mm is left between them. As a rule, during installation, scraps of the same plastic are inserted from above and below, and after fixing with self-tapping screws, they are pulled out. It is advisable to drill out an underlay on the bar for the screws, so that the cap is hidden in the bar.

With the installation of horizontal guides everything is a little simpler. They are also fixed to the walls with self-tapping screws, but in order for the bars to stand at the same level (meaning the case with very curved walls), they are screwed to the ends of the side vertical supports.

This can be done using metal corners or simply drive a self-tapping screw from the side at an angle of 45º into both planks at once. On curved walls, to prevent the planks from bending, wedges are placed under them.

The horizontal guides, to which the PVC panels will actually be attached, are installed in increments of 30 - 50 cm, here everything depends on the strength of the panels themselves.

Often in city apartments all communications, that is, sewer riser, water supply and so on, run along the back wall of the toilet. So, PVC cladding provides an excellent opportunity to hide all this “beauty”. In this case, two vertical support rails are mounted not at the rear corners, but in front of the pipe package. The horizontal sheathing is already attached and sewn on them using corners.

And to provide access to communications, hinged doors from or OSB boards. By the way, these doors can also be covered with plastic, as a result they will blend into the general background.

Paneling

Covering the toilet with PVC panels, or rather fixing them on wooden frame can be performed in different ways. Some craftsmen recommend using small nails with wide heads for this. Theoretically this is possible, there is no error here.

But there is one important nuance. You will have to hammer these nails into a narrow mounting strip on the edge of the panel, and if you miss once and hit the panel itself with a hammer, it will crack and will need to be replaced.

Now there is one convenient device How construction stapler. Plastic mounting plate at the edge of the panel itself is thin and can be easily pierced by the sharp legs of metal brackets.

The price for this same stapler is quite reasonable, plus it can come in handy more than once on the farm. And if you are absolutely sure that you will not have to disassemble the plastic cladding in the foreseeable future, feel free to mount it on brackets.

But personally, I prefer to fasten the panels with small self-tapping screws. True, for this it is advisable to have a normal screwdriver; screwing so many screws with a screwdriver will tire your hand.

This method is also good because it doesn’t matter what kind of frame you have, wooden or assembled from metal profiles. It’s just that one type of screw is used for wood, and another for metal.

The technology itself PVC installation panels is extremely simple. First, fittings are attached to the guides, that is, corners and plinths. This is an important stage, everything here should be as accurate as possible. The grooves in all guides have a depth of at least 10 mm; this must be taken into account when cutting the planks.

In my opinion, for fans of PVC panels, it is best to cut them using a hacksaw. Some craftsmen cut with a sharp shoe knife or even metal scissors; this is possible, but in order not to spoil the edge you will need to practice.

Polyvinyl chloride is prone to thermal deformation, so the strip itself is cut taking into account the damper gap to compensate for expansion. Simply put, you need to measure about 5 mm less maximum size by lenght.

Then everything is simple. The bar is slightly bent, inserted into the lower and upper fittings guides, and then advanced until it enters the side groove of the starting corner. Now you need to secure the panel to each horizontal rail using a screw or bracket.

The plastic panel has a tongue on one side and a groove on the other. The tenon of the first panel should be hidden in the groove of the fittings. The tenon of the next panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one, after which it is fixed on the guides. And so on until you have sewn up the entire wall.

Particular attention should be paid to the outer panel. In the vast majority of cases, it will need to be trimmed along its entire length. It is cut approximately 5 mm narrower than maximum distance between the grooves of the previous panel and the fittings.

After that, insert it into the guides and first push it all the way into the groove of the fittings, and when it goes in, slide it back until it completely fits into the groove of the previous panel. As you remember, the grooves on the fittings are much deeper and the difference in size will not be noticeable.

It is inconvenient to insert the outer cut strip directly into the upper, lower and side grooves. To prevent the edges of these grooves from bending or, worse, cracking, I recommend bending them in advance using wide metal spatulas, although you will need an assistant here.

If, when installing the outer PVC panel, you managed to stretch the plastic walls of the grooves, which happens quite often, you can return them to their original appearance by heating them with a hair dryer and ironing the plastic through the fabric with an iron. And in order not to damage the panel itself, while you heat it, insert the blade of a metal spatula into the groove.

I already mentioned above that there is also mounting on clamps. So, here you will need special guides. They are equipped with two grooves into which clamps are inserted and move along them as if on rails.

The clamp itself is a flat metal bracket with a small “tongue”. When you insert the strip into the grooves and push it all the way, the clamp is adjusted from behind and presses the mounting strip with its tongue. No screws or staples for you, everything is simple and beautiful.

The instructions for covering the ceiling of a toilet with PVC panels are not much different from the technology for covering walls. Unless you first need to lay an electrical cable under the lighting, and hide it in a corrugated metal sleeve. Naturally, when installing the frame, you will need to take into account the depth of the built-in ceiling soffit. The hole for it is cut with a special crown using an electric drill.

Subtleties of frameless installation

PVC panels for bathrooms and toilets can be mounted without a frame, directly on the walls and ceiling, only for this purpose smooth curvatures on the plane should not exceed 3 mm, we are not talking about any potholes or distortions at all. The technology in this case is much more accessible - the panels and fittings are simply glued to the walls and ceiling.

As a rule, so-called “Liquid nails” are used as the main adhesive; this is a fairly common construction adhesive with an optimal price-quality ratio.

But working with him has one peculiarity. First, glue is applied to the wall and the panel is applied to it. After which it is torn off and left for 3 - 4 minutes for weathering, and only after this the PVC plank is finally glued.

I have a real-life incident on this topic that will be useful to you. One of my friends, having bought an apartment on the secondary market, inherited services from the previous owners, taxed tiles. The tiles were good, but very old and ugly. There was neither the desire nor the means to knock it down and lay down a new one, and the dimensions of the premises were more than modest; frame installation would have made them absolutely miniature.

The man did it simply. He thoroughly washed and degreased the tiles, then cut PVC panels and glued them to the tiles with double-sided construction tape. He used 3 fixing strips on a 250 mm wide panel, but this is not a dogma; you can glue it in different ways.

When funds became available, and it came to expensive luxury repairs and redevelopment, tearing off this plastic was very problematic. So keep in mind that this option also has a right to exist.

Conclusion

August 1, 2016

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The modern market of finishing materials offers many practical solutions for finishing bathrooms. Until recently, those who were planning to renovate their toilet had only two options - painting the walls or tiling them. Now you can choose from several available options, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

In today's article we would like to tell you about one of the easiest and convenient ways finishing of walls and ceilings in the bathroom - plastic panels. You will learn about the features of this finishing material, about the basic principles of working with it, as well as how to choose the right plastic panels for the toilet.

pros

First, let's look at positive sides using plastic panels as finishing material for the bathroom. The list of advantages of these products is quite impressive:

Low price. This method of surface finishing is one of the most cost-effective. It would be cheaper to paint with water-based emulsion.
Easy to install. Plastic panels do not require special repair skills. Even those who have undertaken repairs for the first time can cope with their installation.
Fast installation. Installation of one PVC panel takes just a few minutes. Since bathrooms usually have very small area, all the work will take you very little time.
No need for surface preparation. There is no need to level or plaster the walls for plastic panels.
Low maintenance requirements. PVC is a waterproof material that perfectly withstands wet cleaning and contact with various detergents. Therefore, keeping the walls in the toilet clean will not be difficult.
Wear resistance. Despite the fact that plastic is a fragile material, if you do not subject it to strong mechanical stress, PVC panels will last you quite a long time.

Minuses

However, plastic panels have not only positive aspects. This finishing material does not have many negative qualities, but they are still present, so one cannot remain silent about them. So, the disadvantages of PVC panels are:

Instability to heat and fire. Plastic panels are deformed under the influence of high temperatures, so heaters and heated towel rails should not be placed close to them. In addition, plastic is not a fire-resistant material: it can catch fire if it comes into contact with fire. Therefore, you need to be careful when smoking in the toilet.
Large dimensions. At first glance, it seems that the plastic panels are absolutely flat, but in fact they can be up to 2 cm thick. In addition, a few more centimeters of space are often “eaten up” if the walls in the room are uneven. For large bathrooms this is not critical, but in small toilets this can become a real problem, as it will not allow the tiny area to be used to the maximum.

Types of panels

Plastic panels intended for finishing walls and ceilings in the bathroom come in several varieties.

Leafy

The most popular type is sheet panels, which are rectangles from one to one and a half meters long. The thickness of such panels is 0.3-0.6 cm. They can be plain, with ornaments or imitation of natural structures - wood or stone. It is most convenient to work with sheet panels due to their large dimensions.

Rack and pinion

Slatted panels for finishing bathrooms are used much less frequently. They are most often used for outdoor work or large premises. This type of plastic panels looks like long narrow strips. The length of such panels is from 4.4 to 3.7 meters, and the width is from 12 to 30 cm. Slat panels that imitate wooden beam.

Stacked tiles

The least common type of plastic panels are type-setting tiles. They are squares of different sizes, which allows you to lay out various patterns on the walls and ceiling, like a mosaic. The elements are connected through grooves in the panels, and everything is held together special glue or clamps.

If you want to purchase a product with maximum strength, choose plastic panels with a thickness of at least 0.8 cm. In addition, pay attention to the number of “ribs” on inside– they give additional rigidity.
The quality of plastic panels can be determined by its appearance. Take a close look at the front of the product: the paint should be applied evenly, and the design, if there is one, should be clearly printed.
As with wallpaper, the color of the same wall panels and different batches may vary by several shades. Therefore, buy products only from one batch.

The high cost of wall panels does not always indicate the same high quality, so price should not be the determining factor when choosing. However, material that costs significantly less than its counterparts from other manufacturers is usually not made in good faith.

Preparation and stages of repair

Before you begin finishing the toilet with plastic panels, you should carry out some preliminary work. By this stage of the repair, you already need to install the toilet, level the floor, lay it out ceramic tiles or cover with linoleum.

Experts advise preparing plastic panels for installation and further use by treating them with an antiseptic. This will protect the material from exposure to heat and moisture, so there is no need to worry about the appearance of fungus and mold.

Stage 1. Installation of the side posts, which will serve as the basis for the frame.
Stage 2. Lathing the structure with slats and cross members.
Stage 3. Attaching plastic fittings.
Stage 4. Cutting and installing plastic panels.

Basic principles and installation

Let's consider each of the above stages of work in more detail.

One rack should be placed in each corner of the room. At the same time, they should not be in contact with the floor and ceiling, so we place some material between the racks and surfaces. After the structure is fixed with screws, the temporary support will need to be removed. The side posts must be placed plumb so that they are strictly parallel. We maintain a step of 0.3-0.4 meters between fasteners (we use screws as fasteners).
The sheathing of the side posts is done with wooden blocks along the perimeter of the structure at the top and bottom. The fasteners should be screwed in at an angle of 45 degrees - this way we can securely fix two slats at once. Next, the slats need to be secured to the walls using self-tapping screws. This is the main frame, which, if necessary, can be supplemented with side posts or cross bars. The step between frame elements should be about 0.5 meters.
We nail the plastic fittings to the frame using nails and a hammer. The fittings need to be cut at an angle of 45 degrees - this way it will fit more tightly. Since PVC panels are quite flexible, we install fittings, including in the corners. If there is a gap between the slats and the wall, fill it with scraps of plastic, then hammer in a nail. Nails for installation should be selected with large flat heads. In order not to damage the plastic elements when driving nails, the final blows are performed not on the head, but on the protective attachment (for example, you can use a nail).
The final stage, when correct installation frame and fittings, takes very little time. We cut plastic panels using a hacksaw. At the same time, the size of each sheet should be a centimeter and a half less than the space prepared for it, since the missing length is compensated by plastic fittings. We insert the cut sheet into the grooves and attach it to the slats. We insert the next sheet into the previous one, then also nail it to the crossbars.

We mount the last panel a little differently. We cut it along its entire length, then move it into the corner until it stops and drive it into the lock of the previous panel using a thin screwdriver. It will not be possible to fix this panel with nails, so you need to provide the most inaccessible place in the room for it in advance.

Before you start purchasing materials and decorating the toilet, sketch out a simple design project for the future room. Think not only about color scheme and about the placement of interior elements: it is equally important to provide for the location of windows, niches in the walls, plumbing box and ventilation.
Make sure in advance that you have all the necessary materials and tools at hand. In addition to the plastic panels themselves, you will need: metallic profile, wooden blocks, nails, screws and self-tapping screws, hammer, silicone glue, building level or plumb line, hacksaw or cutter, hammer drill with a set of drills.

For tips on planning the design of a toilet with plastic panels, read another article.

For some reason, when they talk about renovating an apartment, they first of all mean the living room, bedroom, or kitchen and bath. And they forget about the toilet. But there is also need high-quality repairs. There are no such problems with this room as where there is constant humidity, or with the kitchen where there is smell and fumes from cooking. Toilet repairs are quite easy to do even on your own. You just need to choose the material with which the finishing will be done.

You can opt for plastic panels. And what? The selection is simply wonderful. After all, it costs about half as much as tiling. And this is a significant saving. In addition, this material looks great and is very hygienic. Which is important for this room. After all, plastic panels are very easy to wash with any suitable detergents.

What is a plastic panel

There was a time when such panels were used for European-quality renovations. This time has already passed, and such material is no longer perceived as something special. What is a plastic panel? This is a strip that is made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). But simply, from ordinary plastic. It is released different sizes. Plus it cuts easily.

Its advantages:

Cheap material. There are no special costs required for its purchase and installation.
Hygienic, easy to clean.
you can do it on your own.
Very big choice various colors. In this regard, you can decorate the interior as you please.

Disadvantages usually include the presence of a plastic odor and the possibility of mechanical damage. To which we can answer that the smell of plastic in the toilet is still better than any other. As for mechanical damage, rarely does anyone enter the toilet with an ax in their hands.

Tools and installation sequence

The following materials and tools are used for installation:

wooden blocks;
building level;
screwdriver;
plastic panels;
screws, nails or glue.

First, wooden blocks are placed on the walls of the toilet. If the plastic panels are positioned vertically, then the bars are packed parallel to the floor. If horizontal, then the bars are packed perpendicularly. The bars must be set to the building level. This determines how evenly the panels will be positioned.

Installation of the frame on walls made of metal profiles

When planning how they will be, you need to take into account that their vertical arrangement will visually make the room taller. And the horizontal one is wider.

Profile frame on the ceiling

The bars can be attached to the walls with dowels or self-tapping screws. If using self-tapping screws, then you need to drill holes and drive plastic chips into them. Wooden blocks must be well dried so that they do not warp later. After all, this could ruin the whole work.

Frame made of wooden blocks

The distance between the sheathing bars is usually 40-50 cm. If you plan to hang shelves or cabinets, then the sheathing bars are attached more often, taking into account the fastening of the shelves. This must be provided for in advance.

An alternative method is to attach the panels with glue.

Sequence of work

Let's assume that the panels are mounted vertically, since this is the most common option. First, the first strip of plastic is attached to the corner. This is the starting line, so to speak. It's narrow fastening side the next strip is inserted and secured with nails or self-tapping screws. The next panel is again inserted with the narrow fastening side. And so on until all the panels are secured. Special plastic corners are attached to the top and bottom, which can be purchased together with. The same corners can be fixed in the corners. There is nothing complicated about the installation work. It is somewhat reminiscent of a construction kit.

Video: installation of plastic panels

Toilet design with panels (photo)

Depending on the chosen design, the panels can be positioned so that they cover the wall by one quarter, half or completely, up to the ceiling. If the plastic does not reach the ceiling, then the remaining part of the wall needs to be painted or wallpapered. If it is wallpaper, then it should be washable so that it can be wiped damp cloth while cleaning the toilet. You can paint it water-based paint, adding the appropriate tint to give the desired color.

The ceiling in the toilet can also be decorated with plastic panels. no different from mounting it on the walls. It is only recommended to fill the sheathing a little more often. The distance between the bars should be 30-40 cm. Decorating the ceiling with plastic panels is also beneficial because lamps can be built in. To do this, you need to plan the wiring installation in advance.

It must be said that plastic panels do not necessarily need to be attached to nails or screws. Fastening can also be done using glue.

Panel fastening methods

For decoration, you can choose with a three-dimensional image.

The most difficult and important stage of bathroom renovation can be considered the finishing of the walls and ceiling. Most often, toilets are lined with plastic panels or covered with tiles. Sometimes bathrooms are also decorated with mosaics or decorative plaster on drywall.

In some cases, lining or wooden panels. Of course, in order for all surfaces to ultimately turn out neat, repairs should be carried out in compliance with certain technologies.

How to cover a bathroom with plastic panels

Modern wall panels are the most convenient material option for finishing a bathroom. A room covered with them will look quite modern and aesthetically pleasing.

Among other things, plastic panels are completely resistant to moisture, are hygienic, and their cost is low. Thus, using them you can make a budget, but at the same time high-quality repair.

Preparatory activities

Before starting repairs, an estimate is drawn up with a calculation of all necessary materials. Here is a small example of a bathroom renovation estimate:

How to calculate the cost of toilet repairs

Of course, when performing repairs small toilet In an apartment with your own hands, it is not necessary to make such a detailed list. But it’s still worth estimating the cost of basic materials.

Before you start PVC finishing panels, all furniture and household appliances are removed from the bathroom. You can leave the plumbing fixtures during the renovation, but it is better to dismantle and put them away. Moreover, during repairs it is usually replaced with a new one.

Before finishing, old wallpaper should be removed from the walls, and their surface should also be cleaned and treated with anti-rot compounds.

Bathroom renovation. Preparing walls for finishing

Repair of a combined bathroom is carried out according to certain rules, since the air in such a room is very humid. In this case, the slats are installed only on the sheathing. In conventional toilets, slats can be glued directly to the walls.

Frame installation

Since the walls and ceilings in bathrooms modern apartments They are rarely perfectly level; plastic lining is usually installed with preliminary installation of the frame. The latter is easiest to do from wooden slats 40x25 mm. The sheathing elements are usually attached horizontally. The frame is fixed directly to the wall using self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. The step between the slats is no more than 50 cm.

When finishing a bathroom, it is best to attach PVC slats to a wooden frame

Advice: To level the frame in the places where the battens are attached, you can place slats of the required thickness or pieces of plywood.

After the entire wall is covered, you can begin installing the corner elements, as well as the upper and lower plastic guides. They are fastened to the frame with brackets using a construction stapler.

When finishing walls with panels, corner elements are pre-installed

Panel installation

To renovate a bathroom, you can choose plastic panels of any color. But it's better at this small room Light slats will look good. There are actually many options for decorating a toilet with plastic. To verify this, just look at the catalog of any online construction store.

The design of such finishing as PVC panels can have very different

Actually finishing the bathroom with plastic panels is done like this:

First, the tenon is cut off at the first lamella.
After this, it is inserted into the corner starting element.
WITH reverse side the first lamella will need to be secured to each lathing with a clamp or bracket.

DIY bathroom renovation photo. PVC panels are fastened using a construction stapler

The tenon of the second panel is inserted into the groove of the first. To insert into the upper and lower guides, the element will have to be bent slightly. The second panel is attached to the sheathing in the same way as the first.
All other slats are installed in exactly the same order.

Bathroom renovation. Photo of installation of PVC panels using the tongue-and-groove method

The last panel is inserted into the finishing corner profile without additional fixation to the sheathing.
The ceiling is finished in exactly the same way.

On a note: Available for sale today PVC profile, specially designed for mounting plastic panels. In this case, the fastening of the sheathing and the lamellas themselves is carried out using the same technology.

Bathroom renovation in Khrushchev. Photo of plastic profile

Glue mounting

Repairing a bathroom with your own hands, if the walls are smooth and it is not combined with a bathroom, can be done using a simpler technology. In this case, PVC slats are attached directly to the surface of the room liquid nails. The sequence of work will be as follows:

Repairs begin by cleaning the walls and ceiling from dirt. Next, the surfaces should be primed.

Photo of the finishing of the combined bathroom. Walls should be primed before covering with PVC panels

Large drops of liquid nails are applied to each panel in a checkerboard pattern in increments of approximately 30 cm.
Next, the panel is pressed tightly to the surface and held in this position for several seconds.
All other elements are attached in exactly the same way.

Renovation of a combined bathroom. Photo of a room decorated with PVC panels

Of course, as in the first case, the finishing and starting corner profiles, as well as the upper and lower guides, are first glued to the wall.

Below we invite you to watch how to renovate a bathroom with your own hands (video):

As you can see, using plastic panels you can make very high-quality and inexpensive repair bathroom.

Finishing the bathroom with ceramic tiles

Even though the price is higher, toilets are finished with tiles even more often than with PVC panels. A bathtub finished with modern design tiles looks stylish and presentable.

In addition, it is much more difficult to damage tiles than plastic. The only drawback of ceramics is that it is somewhat difficult to install. Of course, you can renovate a bathroom using tiles yourself. However, when performing this work, you must strictly adhere to all required technologies.

Alignment of walls

Repairing a combined bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building or a separate toilet usually begins with leveling all surfaces. It is better not to glue tiles to curved walls. Otherwise the room will look sloppy.

When renovating the walls in the bathroom for tiling, they must first be carefully leveled

The alignment procedure includes the following steps:

Peeled off the walls and ceiling old plaster. Used tiles are removed from the floor.
The repair continues by gluing (on the gypsum mortar) plaster guides.

Leveling the walls of the bathroom for finishing with tiles during renovation is carried out according to the beacons

Once the plaster has set, you can begin applying new plaster. The solution is poured between the beacons in large pieces, and then carefully leveled with a rule.
The walls of bathrooms in Khrushchev are leveled using the same technology.
A screed is placed on the floor along the beacons.

Floor repairs begin with pouring screed

Important: Minimum thickness concrete screed– 3 cm. To create a thin layer, special leveling mixtures are used.

Bathroom renovation in panel house can be done without preliminary leveling of surfaces. The walls in such buildings, unlike block and brick ones, are usually quite smooth.

Carrying out renovations in an apartment panel house, tiles can be installed without first leveling the walls

Tile installation

Tiles for a bathroom - especially a shared one - are suitable only for special ones, intended for use in conditions high humidity. You can buy this variety at any hardware store. The tiles are installed in the following order:

At the first stage of repair, the walls and ceiling are carefully coated with a penetrating primer.

Walls for tiles must be pre-marked

Advice: The first step is usually finishing the walls. Then the tiles are glued to the ceiling, and final stage- on the floor.

Next, the surface is marked according to the height of the tile.
Installation of elements begins from the bottom.
The glue is applied to the wall using a notched trowel or a special grater.

Photo of finishing the bathroom with tiles. Apply tile adhesive using a notched trowel

On a note: You can install tiles in the bathroom either in even rows or in staggered rows.

A day after installation, the crosses are removed, and the seams are rubbed with a composition of a suitable color intended for this purpose.

Tiles for the bathroom. Photo of the grouting process

Advice: Floor tiles are installed using the same technology. You can walk on the floor after its installation only after the glue has completely dried.

Use of other materials

Tile and plastic panels are the most popular types of finishes for bathrooms. However, in some cases, repairs can be made using other materials.

Mosaic finishing

When performing repairs, tiles can be replaced, for example, with mosaics. Decorating a bathroom with this material is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Smalt, ceramic and glass mosaics are sold not in small pieces, but in panels measuring approximately 30x30 cm. During production, the elements are glued face down onto paper. After gluing the panel to the wall, it is simply moistened with water and removed after soaking.

Spectacular finishing of bathrooms with mosaics

Plasterboard finishing

This material is also used quite often for finishing bathrooms, both combined and separate.

Important: For finishing wet areas can only be used moisture resistant drywall Green colour.

Installation of this type of finish is done either on a wooden frame or, which is better, on a metal frame.

Plasterboard finishing is usually done through a metal frame

The top is most often used for finishing drywall in the bathroom. decorative plaster. Finishing work with this material is carried out in stages:

The plasterboard surface is first primed with a special agent.
After the primer has dried, the plaster itself is applied to the walls and ceiling with a trowel in a circular or straight hand motion. Its layer should be quite thin.
After the first layer has dried, you can apply a second, and then a third. For structural plaster One or two will be enough. The textured one is applied in 5-12 layers.

Photo of combined bathrooms after renovation. Finishing with decorative plaster

Wood paneling

Wooden panels in the bathroom are usually used only if it is not combined with a bathroom. They are installed using the same technology as the installation of plastic panels.

Sometimes the finishing of bathrooms is done using wooden panels

As you can see, renovating a bathroom with your own hands is quite a troublesome task, but quite doable. Do the finishing slowly and carefully, and you will have a beautiful modern toilet with smooth walls and the ceiling. If the technology of paneling and tiles seems too complicated to you, you can always hire specialists. Many companies today perform turnkey finishing of bathrooms and inexpensively.

When starting an apartment renovation, the main emphasis is on the main rooms in the house, such as the living room or bedroom. Toilet repair is often left for later, because there are not many requirements for it. The environment here is not as aggressive as, for example, in the bathroom or kitchen. But there is one significant difficulty, namely the small space.

Most materials for wall decoration significantly reduce space, and if in the case of, for example, a living room this is acceptable, then in a cramped toilet every centimeter counts. That is why finishing bathrooms and toilets with PVC panels is the most common option.

The video shows how simple finishing PVC panels can transform a toilet room.

Advantages

PVC panels can be mounted at a minimum distance from the wall. In total, after finishing the walls, the room will lose only 3-5 cm.
Plastic is not afraid wet cleaning and detergents.
Plastic panels are much cheaper than most finishing materials.
Huge variety of colors and patterns.
Finishing a toilet with your own hands, even without special skills, will only take a few hours.
To work with panels, you do not need to level the walls. They will hide all the irregularities and mistakes of the builders.

Unfortunately, like any other material, PVC panels have a number of disadvantages, which also need to be taken into account when choosing a finish for a toilet.

Flaws

Unlike wallpaper and painting, PVC panels will still take a few centimeters away from the room.
Even though vinyl has a low flammability rating, it produces acrid, toxic fumes when melted.
PVC is of low quality and easily damaged. And they will need to be replaced.

As you can see, there are still fewer shortcomings. AND positive traits clearly winning. But in order to new renovation did not bring disappointments, you should know a few rules that must be followed when choosing PVC panels.

Selection Guide

At first glance, PVC panels differ only in design, but this is a misconception; the quality of the plastic can vary significantly depending on the manufacturer.

It is best to ask friends who have encountered this issue, since it is quite difficult to visually determine quality. But there are some tips:

The PVC panel must be soft. High-quality plastic can bend to an angle of more than 90 degrees. You can bend the panel slightly until you feel tension; the larger the angle, the better.
The fastening groove should bend freely without kinks, and return to its original position when you release it.
The panels should not emit any noticeable odors. A noticeable smell of plastic is a sign of poor quality production.

The next nuance that needs to be taken into account is the width of the panel. It can be from 12 to 35 cm; the wider the segment, the more carefully the sheathing will need to be leveled. The best option For walls, a width of less than 25 cm is considered.

Advice ! Panels wider than 25 cm can be used on the ceiling. There, a slight distortion will not be so noticeable.

Once these two factors are taken into account, you can move on to choosing colors and patterns. It all depends on personal preferences and style. general interior apartments.

Preparation for installation of panels

Finishing a toilet with PVC panels will not take much time; a more complex and responsible process is making the sheathing on which the panels will be attached.

If the walls are perfectly smooth, or they have been plastered, then the panels can simply be glued to the wall without lathing. This method will save space, but the surface will first have to be treated with a primer.

Any DIY repair must begin with preparing the tool; this will avoid unnecessary fuss and significantly save time. The list of everything you need is not so long, and there is nothing specific in it:

Roulette.
Building level.
Pencil.
Hacksaws for wood and plastic (suitable for metal, with fine teeth).
Hammer or drill with impact mode.
Hammer.
Construction stapler.

To make the sheathing, it is best to use a wooden beam 1.5-2 cm thick; for PVC panels this is quite enough and it will not steal much space. Before you begin to fasten the timber, it must be treated with impregnations that will protect it from the formation of mold and mildew.

First of all, using a hammer drill and dowels, the upper and bottom strap. The lower one should be located parallel to the floor and at a minimum distance from flooring. The top one is under the ceiling, but taking into account the future ceiling decoration.

The remaining bars are also attached horizontally at a distance of approximately 30 cm from each other.

Advice ! The smaller the distance between the sheathing strips, the more firmly the panels will hold.

When all the sheathing bars are ready, you need to take care of the places where various accessories will be attached:

Mirror.
Hangers.
Paper holders.

In these places you need to install small bars so that later when drilling holes in the plastic you do not damage it.

When the wood work is completed, install decorative corner in the left corner of the room, from where the installation of panels will begin. To install the corner, it is best to use a construction stapler, but if you don’t have one, furniture nails will do. They are similar in size to shoe boots, but have a wider clamping cap.

The corner is attached in 5-6 places at an equal distance, this is quite enough. If during the installation process a slight curvature appears, then you should not pay attention to it; subsequently it will straighten out with the panel.

The most difficult stage of finishing a toilet with PVC panels is behind us.

Panel installation

Installation begins on the left side, inserting the panel with the comb into the corner. The first segment must be set to the building level; further it will not be needed.

Once the panel is exposed, a stapler or nail is driven into the tab of the groove. Fastenings are made into each bar along the entire height.

To clearly understand how the frame is manufactured and the panels are installed, you can watch the video. For clarity, the master demonstrates the process on a simple wall, and every nuance is clearly visible.

Important ! When reaching the places where the bars for attaching accessories are located, they need to be marked with a pencil so that you do not later have to look for this place through the installed panels.

In this way, fastening is carried out to the next corner. The edge panel is cut along its entire length and a corner is placed on it before installation. It will be fixed to next wall, where the next segments will come from.

Finishing in communication areas

The most difficult for finishing works places are communications. In order to cover the pipes with PVC panels, you will have to make wooden box, on which the panels will be attached. Sometimes such structures are deliberately made larger than required, then the decorative frame can also serve as an additional shelf.

Fastening panels to a frame is no different from finishing walls, the only difference is that the fastening is not made into a special groove, but into the body of the panel itself, as close to the edge as possible, subsequently this place will be covered with decorative fittings.

Advice ! for finishing boxes, it is better to use external corners that do not fit onto the panel, but are attached to it with glue.

An important point when finishing communications is to remember about valves and meters that may be located in toilet room. Access to such places should not be limited, so you will have to either make small doors, which is not so easy, or leave these places open.

Ceiling finishing

After the work with the walls is completed, you can move on to the ceiling. The principle here is the same, with the only difference that there is no need to install corners; their role will subsequently be played by ceiling plinths.

Advice ! To make the room look symmetrical, you can calculate the distance so that the joint of the panels runs exactly in the middle. In this case, you will have to cut not one, but two outer panels.

When finishing the ceiling, it is important to remember about lighting fixtures. It is better to drill holes in the required places on the floor before the panel is secured. And during installation, the wires are led out into the holes.

All stages of work can be seen in the video

Conclusion

When the ceiling and walls are completely finished, all that remains is to do finishing touches, namely, fix the baseboards. In stores you can find special skirting boards for PVC panels; they have a groove that is fixed on top of the panels, but to work with them you will have to carefully calculate the height of each segment.

Therefore, conventional ones are more often used plastic skirting boards, which are simply placed on construction adhesive. Working with them is much easier and does not require complex calculations and measurements of each panel.

Lastly, the lighting fixtures are connected, and at this point the toilet renovation can be considered complete.

As seen, modern finishing installing a toilet with PVC panels is a completely simple process that anyone can handle. To do this, you do not need to have construction skills or experience, you just need to buy everything you need and follow the instructions.