Features of slab insulation and rules for their installation. Roof insulation with mineral wool, methods of laying insulation Incorrect laying of insulation boards in the corners of openings

Currently, not a single type of building construction can be completed without the use of insulating materials. Their task is to reduce heat loss in the cold season and create a favorable indoor climate in hot weather.

In addition, the thermal insulation layer allows for high-quality protection of structures from various types of atmospheric influences. Simply put, by using insulation, the lifespan of your home will be much longer.

Types of materials used as insulation

It is customary to classify insulation based on the type of raw material. This:

• organic thermal insulation materials;
• inorganic elements;
• and mixed components.

The most popular and widespread are materials of organic and inorganic origin; their prices are approximately equal. The list of inorganic products includes such as mineral wool and slabs made on its basis. In addition to it, the same list includes expanded perlite, vermiculite, glass wool and material such as aerated concrete.

This type of insulation is one of the most popular on the modern market. This is due to their resistance to fire and the possibility of vapor permeation. In addition to these qualities, they also have a number of others that contribute to their spread and popularity.

Now let's take a closer look at the use various types insulation for walls, ceilings and floors.

Laying insulation on walls

If we talk about the classification of materials suitable for wall insulation, they can be divided into those that are suitable for interior works and for outdoor work. What is their difference? There is no secret here. The difference lies in the possibility of vapor permeability.

• Internal work on wall insulation requires the presence of this quality without fail, but work carried out outside the building requires the successful use of both types of thermal insulation.
• Exterior wall decoration involves the use of fairly durable insulation. For these purposes, materials such as polystyrene foam or polystyrene are most suitable. In addition to these two, it is possible to use basalt slabs and various types of plaster.

So, if you have chosen polystyrene foam or polystyrene, then your thermal insulation will be complete, of high quality, meeting almost all the requirements set by the technological rules of insulation. The price will also most likely please you, especially if foam is used.

Fastening foam or polystyrene is carried out using adhesive composition. In addition, they are used as additional fixation special fasteners, called "umbrellas".

At the next stage, reinforcement and plastering work is carried out. In this case, you can choose decorative plaster as a finishing cladding.

As for basalt slabs for wall insulation, its use is quite possible for both external and internal work. This material belongs to the category of elements with low thermal conductivity and high density. Its installation can be carried out using glue (according to the method described above), or by placing it in the space under a ventilated facade, made, for example, of siding. For internal insulation, it is placed under plasterboard sheathing.

Now a few words about the work on insulating internal walls. Please note that only materials with qualities such as vapor permeability are suitable for this purpose. This list includes insulation materials of mineral origin and some others.

Most often, mineral wool is used for internal wall insulation. But this material has one significant drawback: its installation will not be complete without plasterboard sheathing, which in turn significantly reduces the area of ​​the room.

The most appropriate is the use of mineral wool as insulation in frame construction technology. This material is produced in the form of plates. Another option for its production is roll material.

The latter option is more suitable for insulating walls in large rooms. But slabs are more often used for insulation small rooms. There are no other differences between these two types.

Various materials are used to insulate ceiling surfaces. Which one to choose, everyone decides for themselves. After familiarizing yourself with the characteristics and some styling features, this procedure will not be difficult for you.

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• One of the popular materials is foil-type mineral wool. This is a textile-type fiber, for the production of which various starting materials were used. Depending on this factor, there are such types of wool as stone wool, slag wool, glass wool, and so on. The thickness of this insulation varies from 2 to 20 cm.
• Please note that when working with mineral wool of any origin, you must always use protective equipment. These are glasses, gloves, respirators, and so on. Especially if you have health problems related to the respiratory organs.
• Another type of thermal insulation material for the ceiling is foil polyethylene foam. It is a component based on foamed polyethylene, one side of which is covered with foil. The thickness of this insulation can be from 1 to 20 mm. The standard roll width is 1 m. Do not think that the maximum thickness is too small to ensure reliable thermal insulation. Despite this, he copes with the task perfectly. This is due to the existing layer of aluminum foil.

Ceiling insulation can be done in several ways, for example, from the attic side. For these purposes, any type of insulation can be used, but the most common options are mineral wool or expanded clay.

Another insulation option involves working from the bottom side. For this you will need to make a special frame structure hanging type.

Laying insulation on the floor

As for floor insulation work, here, as in the first two cases, various types of materials can be used. These include:

• mineral wool, glass wool and so on;
• Fiberboard, cork, plywood sheets, etc.;
• polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, various foamed polymer materials with a foil-coated surface;
• expanded clay;
• liquid insulation materials.

If you choose mineral wool as floor insulation, then your choice will provide you with good heat and sound insulation. In addition to these properties, the insulation has good resistance to fire and exposure to a humid environment. Mechanical damage is also irrelevant for him. The service life is quite long.

When purchasing mineral wool for floor insulation, you can choose either slabs or material in the form of mats that are quite flexible. If single-layer thermal insulation is planned, then the most appropriate would be to use slabs.

But the option with flexible mats will be more durable and resilient. Usually one of the sides of such mats is equipped with perforation. If your floor is wooden, then this method is optimal for insulation. However, it's up to you to decide. Good luck!

To reduce the costs associated with heating your home, it is definitely worth investing in wall insulation. Before delving into the search for a team of façade designers, it is advisable to prepare properly. Here is a list of the most common mistakes that can be made when insulating a house.

Absence or poorly executed wall insulation project

The main task of the project is to determine the optimal heat insulating material(mineral wool or polystyrene foam) and its thickness in accordance with building codes. Also, a pre-prepared house insulation project gives the customer the opportunity to clearly control the work performed by contractors, for example, the layout of insulation sheets and the number of fasteners on square meter, and workarounds window openings, as well as much more.

Carrying out work at temperatures below 5° or above 25°, or during precipitation

The consequence of this is that the glue between the insulation and the base dries too quickly, as a result of which the adhesion between the layers of the wall insulation system is not reliable.

Ignoring site preparation

The contractor must protect all windows from dirt by covering them with film. In addition, (especially when insulating large buildings) it is good if the scaffolding is covered with a mesh, which will protect the insulated facade from excessive sunlight and wind, allowing finishing materials to dry more evenly.

Insufficient surface preparation

Surface insulated wall must have sufficient bearing capacity and be smooth, level and free of dust to ensure good adhesion for the adhesive. Uneven plaster and any other defects must be corrected. It is unacceptable to leave mold, efflorescence, etc. residues on insulated walls. Of course, it is necessary to first eliminate the cause of their occurrence and remove them from the wall.

No starting bar

Using installationbase profile The level of the bottom layer of insulation is set. Also, this bar takes on part of the load from the weight of the heat-insulating material. And, in addition, such a strip helps protect the lower end of the insulation from the penetration of rodents

There should be a gap of about 2-3 mm between the slats.

Installation of slabs is not staggered.

A common problem is the appearance of gaps between slabs.

The insulation slabs must be installed carefully and tightly in a checkerboard pattern, that is, offset by half the length of the slab from bottom to top, starting from the corner wall.

Incorrect application of glue

It is incorrect when gluing is carried out only by applying “bloopers” and does not apply a layer of glue around the perimeter of the sheet. The consequence of such gluing may be the bending of the insulation boards or the marking of their contour on finishing insulated facade.

Options for correctly applying glue to foam:

1. along the perimeter in the form of stripes with a width of 4-6 cm. On the remaining surface of the insulation - dotted “bloopers” (from 3 to 8 pieces). The total area of ​​the adhesive should cover at least 40% of the foam sheet;
2. applying glue to the entire surface with a ridge spatula - used only if the walls are pre-plastered.

Note: the adhesive solution is applied only to the surface of the thermal insulation, never to the base.

Bonding mineral cotton wool requires preliminary puttying of the slab surface Thin layer cement mortar rub into the surface of the mineral wool.

Insufficient fastening of thermal insulation to the load-bearing surface

This may be the result of careless application of adhesive, the use of materials with inappropriate parameters, or too weak mechanical fastening. Mechanical connections- these are all kinds dowels and anchors . Do not skimp on the mechanical fastening of insulation, be it heavy mineral wool or lightweight foam.

The place of fastening with a dowel must coincide with the place where the glue (blooper) is applied on the inside of the insulation

The dowels must be properly embedded in the insulation. Pressing too deeply leads to damage to the insulation boards and the formation of a cold bridge. Too small and it will cause a bulge that will be visible on the façade.

Leaving thermal insulation unprotected from weather conditions.

Exposed mineral wool easily absorbs water, and polystyrene foam in the sun is subject to surface erosion, which can impair the adhesion of wall insulation layers. Thermal insulation materials must be protected from atmospheric influences, both when they are stored on a construction site and when they are used to insulate walls. Walls insulated with mineral wool must be protected by a roof to prevent them from getting wet by rain - because if this happens they will dry very slowly and wet insulation is not effective. Walls insulated with foam plastic cannot be exposed to prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. By long-term we mean more than 2-3 months.

Incorrect laying of insulation boards in the corners of openings

To insulate walls in the corners of window or door openings, the insulation must be cut appropriately so that the intersection of the slabs does not occur at the corners of the openings. This, of course, significantly increases the amount of waste thermal insulation material, but can significantly reduce the risk of cracks in the plaster in these places.

Not sanding the glued foam layer

This operation takes a long time and is quite labor intensive. For this reason, it is not popular among contractors. As a result, curvature may form on the facade.

Mistakes when laying fiberglass mesh

The reinforcing layer of wall insulation provides protection from mechanical damage. It is made from fiberglass mesh and reduces thermal deformation, increases strength and prevents the formation of cracks.

The mesh must be completely immersed in the adhesive layer. It is important that the mesh is glued without folds. We also do not recommend using cheap Chinese meshes. They are not alkali-resistant, which will lead, over time, to corrosion by the solution, which means the plaster layer will not be sufficiently protected from temperature and mechanical deformation.

In places vulnerable to loads, an additional layer of reinforcement is performed - in all corners of window and doorways, mesh strips measuring at least 35x25 are glued at an angle of 45°. This prevents cracks from forming in the corners of openings.

To strengthen the corners of the house - usedcorner profiles with mesh .

Not filling the seams between the insulation

The result is the formation of cold bridges. To fill gaps up to 4 mm wide, usepolyurethane foam for facades .

Not using a primer before a layer of decorative plaster

Some people mistakenly apply finishing decorative plaster directly to the mesh layer, refusingspecial primer . This results in improper bondingdecorative plaster , the appearance of gray gaps from the glue, and a rough surface insulated facade. In addition, after a few years, such plaster cracks and falls off in pieces.

Mistakes when applying decorative plaster

Thin-film plasters can be performed after 3 days from the date of completion of the reinforcing layer.

The work must be organized so that the team works without interruption on at least 2 or 3 levels of scaffolding. This prevents the appearance of uneven color on the facade due to its drying at different times.

• Some characteristics
• Insulation with polystyrene foam
• Materials and tools
• Preparing the wall
• External finishing of insulation
• Wall insulation with foil material
• The use of mineral wool for insulation with outside
• How to insulate a concrete wall
• How to insulate a brick wall

Often, during the construction of a house, mistakes are made or the choice of materials is incorrect. construction material. Subsequently, this leads to a rapid cooling of the house. main reason This is due to poorly insulated walls. In this case, you should not rely on additional heaters; the heat will disappear at lightning speed. To correct the situation and live in comfort, you need to carry out measures to insulate the house, or more precisely, know how to lay insulation on the walls.

House wall insulation scheme.

Don't panic, the job is quite simple. Below we will give a guide that will make it possible for even a beginner in this matter to lay insulation.

Some characteristics

Before you start insulating, you need to make sure that it is the cause of heat loss in the house. Otherwise, all the work will not bring the desired effect and the room will also lose heat. Incorrectly installed thermal insulation will not bring the expected comfort.

Insulation scheme for a brick wall.

1. If the walls really need thermal insulation and all measures are carried out correctly, only in this case the result will be noticeable.
2. If the walls do not allow heat to pass through, but become damp and fungus forms on them, thermal insulation should also be laid, this will correct the situation.

Now you need to decide what type of wall insulation will be, external or internal. External method has more advantages, since the entire wall is insulated, and not just inner part, with this method, useful space in the house itself is not occupied.

The insulation can be placed on the internal wall if the room is in multi-storey building and you can’t get to the outer wall without special equipment.

You can insulate walls using polystyrene foam, foil insulation or mineral wool.

All these materials do a good job of thermal insulation, but first we will consider a material such as polystyrene foam.

This material is best suited for these purposes, as it has higher thermal insulation properties and is not afraid of moisture, which is important for internal insulation.

Insulation with polystyrene foam

Materials and tools

• antifungal primer;
• painting mesh;
• cement-based adhesive;
• expanded polystyrene;
• fungi (fastenings for insulation sheets);
• hammer drill

Preparing the wall

Before laying the insulation, you need to remove the old covering (wallpaper, paint), dismantle the old baseboard and a small area next to the wall of the floor covering, the insulation will be laid on the floor.

1. Next, wipe the wall from settled dust with a damp cloth. If the wall is covered with mold, it must be removed; this can be done with sandpaper.
2. Next comes the primer's turn; it is better if it penetrates deeply, which will prevent fungus from forming between the wall and the proposed insulation. To make the primed surface dry faster, you can open the windows.

How to properly install thermal insulation?

Installation of polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam is absolutely the same. Therefore, the installation method described below is suitable for both materials.

Scheme of external wall insulation.

1. You should start laying insulation from the bottom corner of the wall.
2. You need to attach the insulation correctly: to do this, you need to attach a sheet of polystyrene foam to the wall and use a puncher through hole, into which the fixing fungus is driven. The cap of the driven fungus should be pressed tightly against the insulation. Thus, the insulation is attached along the entire lower perimeter of the wall, this is the first row.
3. The second row is laid in the same way as the first. The main thing is to avoid gaps between the sheets of insulation.

Laying the top row under the ceiling will require careful adjustment and cutting of the required piece of insulation.

External finishing of insulation

After the insulation has been laid, you can begin finishing its surface.

To begin with, an adhesive mixture is applied to the insulation, into which the painting mesh is pressed. The final stage is leveling the surface.

Many people refuse to use paint mesh when insulating, and in vain. Since the absence of a mesh will soon lead to the formation of cracks at the joints of the insulation. Therefore, so that the result does not disappoint, you need to do everything correctly.

1. The mesh is placed vertically, so the adhesive mixture should also be applied vertically. In this way, the painting mesh is installed over the entire wall.
2. After the adhesive mixture has dried, you can begin finishing.
3. To prepare the wall for further painting or wallpapering, you need to cover it with a primer, and then apply putty.

At this point, the work on installing the insulation from the inside can be considered complete.

Wall insulation with foil material

This insulation is reflective thermal insulation. Materials with foil do not absorb moisture and are highly resistant to reflection. More often, this material is used in rooms with a large temperature range, for example, for baths. But this thermal insulation is also ideal for home use.

Laying insulation with foil is very simple.

Scheme for insulating the wall of a frame house.

1. Before purchasing foil thermal insulation, you need to measure the wall and calculate required amount material. This insulation is laid end-to-end, not overlapping, so there is no need to buy extra material.
2. It is worth remembering that insulation with aluminum foil for walls must be laid with the reflective side inside the room. Installation of this insulation requires a sheathing into which it is inserted between the guides.
3. After the insulation is laid, you need to glue the visible joints; it is better to do this with tape and foil.

This thermal insulation material is good not only because it retains heat, but also provides sound insulation. Can be used for both internal and external insulation.

Using mineral wool for external insulation

Materials and tools:

• dowels;
• adhesive solution;
• plastic dowels;
• sanding brush;
• windproof film;
• primer;
• construction pistol.

Mineral wool is a fairly durable material, provided that the installation was carried out correctly. When insulating a wall with mineral wool from the outside, you need to take care to protect it from precipitation and wind. For this you can use chipboard or fiberboard.

So, the order of insulation from the outside:

Scheme for insulating the wall of a wooden house.

1. To begin with, a metal cornice is installed at the bottom of the wall and secured with dowels. This will provide protection from all kinds of rodents, and the insulation will lie as evenly as possible.
2. The back side of the mineral wool is lubricated with an adhesive solution.
3. Sheets of insulation are glued to the wall and secured with plastic dowels.
4. The surface is leveled with a sanding brush.
5. Next, the insulation is covered with a windproof film.
6. A primer is applied to the slabs.

How to insulate a concrete wall

If polystyrene foam is chosen for thermal insulation, the walls are first puttied. This is done to create the most even and durable surface. It is also necessary to prime the wall for better adhesion.

If you choose mineral wool for insulation, you need to install wooden slats, between which several layers of mineral wool are laid.

How to insulate a brick wall

When using polystyrene foam, the walls are pre-plastered; this is a mandatory procedure. After the surface has dried, it needs to be leveled; putty is used for this. Putty can be applied to brick walls in one layer, after which the waterproofing material is laid. Do not neglect waterproofing; foam plastic is susceptible to moisture and may rot due to condensation.

It is worth remembering that the glue is applied to the wall itself, after which sheets of foam plastic are applied to it. It is important to avoid gaps that do not contribute to heat retention. Lastly, a vapor barrier material is laid on the foam.

Mineral wool is mounted on brick walls in the same way as on concrete walls. Despite the high characteristics of the insulation materials used, it is worth considering that for concrete walls it is better to choose extruded polystyrene foam.

Other options are also suitable, but only if a vapor barrier material is attached. But for brick walls Foamed polystyrene foam is most preferred.

Before deciding on insulation, you need to know what characteristics it should have. this material:

If the selected insulation has all of the above qualities, then the result will really please you, of course, if the installation is carried out correctly.

How to lay insulation on walls: some characteristics

To live in comfort, you need to carry out measures to insulate the house, or more precisely, know how to lay insulation on the walls.

Foil insulation for walls and floors

Foil insulation has relatively recently appeared on the construction market, but is rapidly gaining popularity for various reasons. Next, we will consider the types of this material, the advantages in comparison with traditional insulation and how to use it correctly.

What is rolled foil insulation

This is a combined material for insulating walls, floors and ceilings, consisting of several layers:

1. Insulation made from familiar materials.
2. A layer of foil.

The material is rolled, therefore it has a relatively small sheet thickness. How does heat retention occur?

• A thin working layer delays the penetration of cold air from the outside;
• The foil reflects heated air into the room.

Varieties

Roll insulation materials are classified according to the main material:

1. Foamed polyethylene with foil that can be attached on one or both sides.
2. Folgoizol is created on the basis of bitumen/rubber, mineral fillers and antiseptic.
3. Mineral wool rolls with one-sided foil surface.
4. Basalt lamella insulation;
5. Expanded polystyrene boards with one aluminum surface.

Each of the presented materials is intended for use in certain conditions.

Application

Penefol (closed cell polyethylene foam) is versatile in use. They insulate walls and floors in residential premises.

Foil insulation for pipes and roofing - foil insulation. It is also used in the construction of industrial facilities.

Rolls of mineral wool with an aluminum layer are used in the same way as conventional insulating mats: for insulating walls, floors and other structures. The difference between foil-coated mineral wool and regular wool is the built-in waterproofing; aluminum does not allow moisture to pass into the fibers, preventing the material from getting wet.

The ideal insulation foil for a bathhouse is based on basalt: it has a low heat transfer coefficient, is not afraid of humidity and large temperature changes. As is known, stone wool– hard material. To roll it into a roll, the basalt is sawed into lamellas, which are laid on an aluminum base. This insulation is used to insulate various social and industrial facilities.

Foiled polystyrene foam is used for floor insulation.

All materials with a layer of aluminum foil have higher technical performance than their traditional form. The cost of foil insulation is an order of magnitude higher than the cost of conventional material; this is the main disadvantage of the “advanced” sample.

The first and most important question is which side to put the foil insulation on?

The first rule of installation: the reflective side should be directed towards the room. This will ensure natural heat reflection.

We insulate the walls

The structure of insulation and finishing must be thought out: in the case of walls, there must be an air gap between the insulation and subsequent finishing. When using a mineral wool base, it is necessary to insulate the material from the penetration of water; for this, a membrane is attached to the base, allowing steam to pass out.

How to attach foil insulation to a wall: roll out the insulator over the fixed membrane and fix it with guide rails, the thickness of which should exceed the thickness of the main insulation. The layers are connected with staples along the edges of the slats. Subsequent finishing of panels or lining is carried out along guides, which provide an air gap with their thickness.

We insulate the floor

For wooden and concrete floors, the algorithm of actions remains identical:

1. The base is cleaned of old coatings, and debris is carefully swept away.
2. Prime the subfloor with a concrete or wood primer.
3. After the primer has dried, measure required quantity roll insulation and roll it out. It is optimal to use adhesive-based material. The strips are laid with an overlap of 10 cm, the joints are taped with aluminum tape.
4. The finishing coating is laid on top.

If the room has an electric or water “warm” floor, the rolls are rolled out with the reflective side up, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top, then heating elements and a cement screed is produced followed by cladding.

Foil insulation: how to lay it, which side?

Let's look at the types of foil insulation, its advantages over traditional insulation, and how to use it correctly.

Which side should the vapor barrier be placed on the insulation?

When insulating a roof or room with a heat insulator (mineral wool, glass wool, loose polystyrene) capable of transmitting and accumulating moisture, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier layer. Moisture that gets into the thermal insulation significantly worsens its performance properties, increasing thermal conductivity. In addition, due to the humid environment, wooden structures with which the insulation comes into contact quickly begin to rot and collapse. At the stage of preparation for insulating a roof or house, it is important to figure out which side to lay the vapor barrier against the insulation - a violation of the technology will lead to steam from the room penetrating into the thermal insulation layer.

What kind of vapor protection is needed?

Types of vapor barrier materials

The primary issue is the choice of material that will protect the insulation from moisture. Classic roofing felt and glassine, which were used for water vapor barrier, have given way to modern polymer films with different performance parameters. Membranes used in construction are divided according to vapor permeability into completely impermeable films and partially permeable (diffusion) films.

Manufacturers offer the following types of vapor barrier membranes::

• polyethylene film(can be used to insulate a roof or floor, the barrier is vapor and waterproof);
• reinforced polyethylene film (higher strength);
• aluminum foil film (used for internal insulation, mounted with the reflective side facing the room - additionally helps to retain heat, primarily designed for use in saunas and baths);
• film with anti-condensation coating (prevents moisture condensation, intended for installation in structures with metal elements, prone to corrosion - corrugated sheets, metal tiles, etc., the film is mounted with the treated side facing the heat insulator).

Reinforced polyethylene film If, when insulating rooms in a house, a completely impermeable film is used to create a vapor barrier, it is necessary to provide effective ventilation of the rooms that can remove excess moisture outside.

Vapor barrier films with a porous structure differ in their ability to diffuse. Due to the pores in the barrier, moisture from the insulation leaves to the outside, due to which the heat insulator retains its operational properties, and those in contact with it metal constructions do not rust, wooden ones do not rot. Among vapor-permeable membranes there are differences:

1. Pseudo-diffusion. During the day, up to 300 g/m2 of vapor is passed through.
2. Diffusion. The amount of evaporation passed per day ranges from 300 to 1000 g/m2.
3. Superdiffusive. The evaporation rate exceeds 1000 g/m2.

The vapor barrier film of the first type is classified as effective protection from moisture and are used for internal insulation of structures (from the room side). If a pseudo-diffusion membrane is mounted on top of a fibrous heat insulator on external wall, the vapor barrier will retain moisture in the insulation. Diffusion and superdiffusion membranes, which simultaneously serve as a wind barrier, are suitable for façade insulation.

Superdiffusion membrane

Principles for installing a vapor barrier

Laying a vapor barrier is an important stage in the work of insulating structures with fibrous materials that can accumulate moisture. The work is carried out as part of the repair or reconstruction of the house or at the stage of preparation for finishing new construction. You need to know how to properly fasten membrane sheets together to ensure a continuous layer that protects against moisture penetration, and how to attach the film to structures. Before laying the vapor barrier film, it is also necessary to determine which side it needs to be placed towards the insulating material.

Preparatory stage

To insulate a block or wooden house or arrange a bathhouse, thermal insulation materials are used, which must be protected from moisture accumulation. For this purpose, a material that does not allow evaporation is installed on the walls inside the house, on the ceiling or floor, on the inside of the roofing pie. Or a diffusion membrane for facade insulation.

At the preparatory stage, you should choose a vapor barrier option, taking into account the installation features and the requirements for the characteristics of the film. Popular options include Izospan (and its analogue Megaizol), a membrane material with high performance parameters. The manufacturer offers a line of membranes with various technical indicators, which allows you to choose a material depending on its purpose - vapor barrier for roofs, ceilings, wall structures made of wood or concrete.

Those who plan to build a bathhouse, not without reason, believe that foil film will reliably protect the mineral wool insulation from getting wet and will help maintain a high temperature in the room due to reflection thermal radiation. Along with classical scheme“insulation + vapor barrier” today, ready-made non-combustible heat-insulating mats with a foil-coated vapor-proof surface are used.

Correctly attaching reflective vapor barrier

Before laying a vapor barrier, it is necessary to properly prepare the surfaces of the structures. The preparation technology depends on the material from which the walls, floor, ceiling or roof are made. It also takes into account what kind of work is being carried out at the site - construction or repair:

1. When building a wooden house, all wooden structural elements must be treated with compounds against rotting, pest damage and fire.
2. During repair work First, dismantle the finish, clean the surfaces, and:
   • wooden structures are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
   • Concrete and block structures are treated with an antiseptic if they are damp and there is a risk of mold, as well as in wet rooms.

Because of improper preparation wall structures, ceilings or rafter systems can become unusable over time or become a source of fungal spores that can provoke allergies, asthma attacks, and exacerbation of respiratory diseases.

How to install a vapor barrier on a ceiling

Installation of a vapor barrier layer on the ceiling is required when insulating a flat or pitched roof in a house without an attic, when thermally insulating a basement, as well as residential premises above which it is located. cold attic. The ceiling in the bathhouse is also insulated and vapor-insulated. Before installing a vapor barrier on a roof made of concrete slab, on a reinforced concrete or wooden floor from the inside, the surface of the structure should be prepared.

The fabric made of film or pseudo-diffusion membrane must be solid so that there are no joints through which moisture can penetrate into the insulation. If the width of the roll material is not enough, the strips will have to be joined together. The recommended overlap of the canvases is from 10 to 20 cm, while the joints on both sides are carefully taped with reinforced construction tape.

Fastening the vapor barrier membrane The foil film sheets are laid without overlap - end-to-end, and the seam is taped with aluminum tape.

If the roof base or ceiling is wooden structure, first you need to lay a waterproofing membrane (solid sheet) and attach it to the base (you can use a vapor barrier material).

Then, in the spaces between the floor joists or rafters, a heat insulator is placed in the form of mats or rolled material made of mineral (basalt) wool. After this, you can lay a vapor barrier on the ceiling. If the thickness of the heat insulator corresponds to the thickness of the logs, you should nail a counter-lattice made of slats to create a ventilation gap.

The vapor barrier should be placed on the ceiling in such a way that the fabric extends along the entire perimeter of the walls and that all corners are closed. The joints of the canvases should be on the floor joists - this will allow them to be securely fixed. To properly install a vapor barrier on the ceiling, monitor the tension of the canvas, it should not sag.

Ceiling installation

We will also consider how to install a vapor barrier on a concrete floor. To insulate a ceiling or flat roof made of a concrete slab from the inside, you need to attach a waterproofing coating (vapor barrier film) to it using self-adhesive tape, and then install a sheathing made of bars or a metal profile.

The correct height of the sheathing should be selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the ventilation gap, the installation step should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation, so that mats made of insulating materials fit into the cells at odds. How to attach a vapor barrier to the sheathing will be described in detail below.

How to lay a vapor barrier on the floor

Installation of a vapor barrier membrane on the floor is similar in technology to how vapor barriers are installed for walls and ceilings. After preparing the base of a wooden floor when insulating along the joists, before laying the vapor barrier on the floor, a waterproofing carpet is installed, which should go around the joists. Then a thermal insulator made of mineral wool is inserted between the joists. After which the vapor barrier is laid, it is important to know how to lay the film correctly.

The overlap of the sheets of rolled material should be at least 10 cm, with the joint taped on each side. The resulting canvas is secured in such a way that the overlaps lie on the floor joists, and along the entire perimeter the evenly stretched canvas extends 5-10 cm onto the walls.

Insulated floor with air gap

Before laying a vapor barrier on a concrete floor, it is necessary to install a sheathing, between the elements of which the waterproofing and insulation will be placed. Further work is carried out according to the standard scheme.

Fastening principles

If they are insulated concrete structures or wooden walls, it is necessary to install a sheathing of bars. To the resulting sheathing, to the ceiling or rafter system It is convenient to attach the film using staples and a construction stapler. You can also secure the vapor barrier material with nails with wide heads or pads under the heads. It is advisable to use galvanized nails - they do not rust. Films and membranes are placed on concrete structures using a special connecting tape.

Overlap when installing vapor barrier

In order to properly fasten the vapor barrier, the canvas should be carefully pulled, and the fasteners should be placed in small increments - no more than 30 cm. Installation rules require careful attention to the fastening of the canvas around the perimeter - it is spread and fixed so as to exclude the possibility of moisture penetrating into the insulation.

Before attaching the vapor barrier, make sure that the sheet is positioned right side to thermal insulation.

Which side to install the vapor barrier material

Let's consider which side of the film or membrane is laid to the insulation:

• polyethylene film (simple or reinforced) can be attached to either side - this does not affect the functionality of the barrier;
• the foil film is placed with the shiny side facing the room so that the barrier reflects heat;
• the anti-condensation film is attached with the treated side to the structures, the fabric side to the room;
• the membrane should be facing the smooth side towards the heat-insulating material, and the rough side towards the room.

Rule for laying vapor barrier to insulation If the front side of the membrane looks similar to the back side, and it is difficult to determine how to properly lay the material, you can conduct an experiment. Cover the bowl of boiling water with a small piece of membrane - whichever side the condensation appears on is the side that is waterproof; it should be facing the insulation.

It is important to know which side to lay the vapor barrier against the insulation if the membrane is used to install a waterproofing barrier - front or back. The thermal insulation “pie” for internal insulation is mounted in such a way that the smooth side of the membrane faces the insulation on both sides. That is, the rough layer of vapor barrier should be facing towards the room, and when installing a waterproofing carpet - towards the structure that is being insulated.

Installation features

It is important not only to install the vapor barrier correctly, but also to ensure ventilation gap between the vapor-tight layer and the cladding of the structure for finishing, for which counter battens are placed along the sheathing. Moisture settling on the rough side of the laid vapor barrier sheets will evaporate naturally without damaging the finish.

Diagram of an insulated roof with a ventilation gap

If the vapor barrier is installed correctly, the insulation is reliably protected from moisture. Almost half of the problems associated with freezing and damage to structures are associated with defects in the installation of the vapor barrier.

Which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation, how to attach it correctly

Which side is the correct way to lay the thermal insulation material towards the insulation? Varieties of vapor barrier films with stages of installation on the roof, ceiling and floor.

Which side should you put the insulation with foil on? Types and installation

When insulating a home, the home handyman will have to solve two problems:

• insulate walls from excess heat entering the room;
• and also retain internal heat.

A solution can be found different ways, because these days there are many thermal insulators, each of which has unique properties.

One of the highest quality and innovative materials is foil insulation, one side of which is a reflector, keeping the room warm by reflecting IR rays. At the same time, the foil side is also a high-quality vapor and water insulator, which protects the insulation from the effects of condensation.

However, in order to produce high-quality thermal insulation using such materials, it is necessary not only to choose high-quality insulation, but also to figure out how to properly attach the insulation with foil, which we will talk about in this article.

About foil insulators

Mineral wool with a layer of foil.

An absolute reflector has not yet been invented, but polished aluminum foil is very close to the absolute, because the material is capable of reflecting up to 97% radiation. At the same time, the foil coating can withstand temperatures up to 500 degrees. It is thanks to such high characteristics that aluminum foil is one of the main components of a highly effective thermal insulation product.

According to experts, significant heat loss in houses and apartments occurs through infrared rays. And to prevent heat leakage, foil insulators or insulation materials that have a not very thin aluminum surface should be used. As practice shows, these materials perfectly retain heat in a room by reflecting IR rays.

When working with heat insulators of this type, it is necessary to take into account certain nuances, otherwise the result will not meet your expectations. Therefore, the question is: “how to lay insulation with foil?” in this case is very relevant.

• Like any other object, the aluminum surface is capable of heating, which leads to the fact that the material transfers heat towards the street, and accordingly, it cannot heat up.

The sheathing over the insulating layer is needed to provide an air gap.

• In connection with the above circumstance, manufacturers of such insulation indicate that it is necessary to leave a 20 mm air gap in front of the aluminum (with inside premises).
• This gap is necessary to ensure that the material does not heat up either due to direct heat transfer or convection. Here it is very important to know how to lay insulation with foil. The material is laid with a foil layer inside. In this case, the IR rays that hit the foil will be reflected back into the room.

Advice! When buying insulation, make sure that it is covered with aluminum foil. A thin layer of aluminum coating will not work because it is not able to contain IR rays.

Now let's figure out what the insulation with foil is called. Such materials are a heat-insulating layer to which aluminum foil is welded.

That is, the choice should be based on two aspects:

• Based on the thermal insulation layer itself.
• Based on the quality and density of the foil itself.

Penofol is one of the best foil insulators.

Nowadays, there are various foil-coated thermal insulators produced by a number of companies, both famous and little-known.

However, if you are results-oriented, then you should pay attention to the following products:

Mineral wool insulation with a foil layer. Produced by a number of well-known companies, such as, for example, Rockwool. This material is an ideal insulator for surfaces that heat up to high temperatures (for example, baths). Mineral wool is also often used when laying pipes.

This is a universal heat insulator that is used to insulate loggias, interior partitions, floors, ceilings and roofs, as well as facades. The foil layer in this case serves not only as a reflector, but also protects the insulation, because mineral wool is known for its intolerance to moisture.

• The material is based on foamed polyethylene foam, on one side of which a layer of aluminum foil is welded. The most striking representative of this type is penofol - an excellent insulator, which has a thin layer, which is an undeniable advantage over mineral wool.

Is universal material, which is used both independently and in combination with the same mineral wool.

• The third type is foil insulation, on the other side of which there is a self-adhesive surface. Most often used as a vapor and waterproofing agent.

Installation of foil insulator

We will consider the most effective option insulation, which you can easily do with your own hands. Will be used as the main heat insulator mineral insulation, as an additional one - penofol.

mineral insulation, optional penofol.

• We mount hangers on the wall to which wooden slats will be attached. The pitch between the hangers should correspond to the width of the insulating mat.
• We attach slats to the hangers, the width of which should be 2 cm greater than the width of the insulating boards.

Advice! It is advisable to treat the slats with protective compounds.

• • We lay insulator slabs between the slats.

Now let's move on to how to properly install insulation with foil. We fill the slats with penofol on top, with a foil layer inside the room.

• In the places where the penofol is attached to the sheathing, we stuff vertical bars, 2 cm wide. They are needed for ventilation.
• The next layer is facing material– lining or drywall.

This method of insulation is quite simple and corresponds to modern ideas about the concept of “price/quality”.

Conclusion

In this article we told you how to lay insulation with foil. This approach to wall insulation will provide you with comfort and coziness for many years.

Which side should you put the insulation with foil on, what is it called correctly, lay it down and install it yourself: instructions, photo and video tutorials, price

Which side should you put the insulation with foil on, what is it called correctly, lay it down and install it yourself: instructions, photo and video tutorials, price

Insulation is a very important stage in the construction or renovation of a house, which determines whether you will be comfortable staying in it. Improper implementation of this “procedure” can lead to unpleasant consequences, for example, the release of condensation and increased humidity in the air. But this will not happen if you take care of the vapor barrier and lay it with the correct side to the insulation.

Peculiarities

When insulating a house, you should carefully follow the correct sequence of actions and use only the most best materials. Unfortunately, often owners who undertake to insulate their home themselves forget about one very important aspect - the vapor barrier. They install only insulation and don’t even think about the fact that it comes into contact with too warm or too cold air inside the room, and that condensation in the form of water droplets will soon begin to form on it.

And this not only does not contribute to insulation, but also spoils the material itself - it moisturizes it, and if the steam does not yet have time to evaporate, mold appears and the insulation structure deteriorates. Moreover, taking into account our climatic conditions, a similar situation occurs at least four times a year - when the seasons change and, accordingly, the temperatures in the room and outside “conflict”, and the insulation becomes the battlefield.

That is why an important stage of insulation is the installation of a “vapor barrier”. The vapor barrier becomes an impenetrable obstacle to steam, preventing it from turning into water, as it “closes” it inside the room and prevents it from coming into contact with excessively warm or excessively cold air.

Materials

Vapor barrier can be made using several materials. From this set, three main types should be distinguished.

• Film. A solid vapor barrier that does not allow water vapor to pass through. One of the main advantages is low price. As a rule, it is made from polyethylene or butylene, their derivatives. Vapor-condensate films are two-layer with a smooth inner and rough outer surface. Lingering on the outside, drops of condensate do not flow down, but evaporate over time. In the case of a solid vapor barrier, you also need to take care of the air gap in order to avoid the greenhouse effect, but more on that later.
• Diffusion membrane. The main difference from film is that the membrane allows some of the vapor to pass through itself - but only the optimal amount that does not linger inside and evaporates instantly. Therefore, the vapor permeability of membranes is usually considered limited. The diffusion membrane is made of polymer film and polypropylene and has two sides.
• Reflective or energy-saving film. The outer layer of this film is metalized, which allows it to withstand high temperatures. Therefore, it is most often used in baths or saunas, reflecting part of the infrared radiation.

As you know, materials such as mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, and ecowool are used to insulate houses in modern conditions. Vapor barrier is also needed in the case of mineral wool insulation.

In fact, vapor barrier is always needed, no matter how expensive or high-quality insulation material you use. Mineral wool or mineral wool is otherwise the cheapest material, but its level of thermal conductivity is low, which reduces the likelihood of heat loss in the room. Rodents, mold, and mildew do not like mineral wool; it has high sound insulation and is easy to install. But it still requires a vapor barrier.

The most commonly used is a vapor-permeable limited diffusion membrane. It is laid against the walls, after which you need to lay mineral wool, and in symbiosis they allow the walls of the house to “breathe”.

The question of vapor barrier also arises when insulating a house with ecowool. In general, ecowool is loose cellulose fibers that have the ability to absorb warm moisture and still remain dry. Fungus and mold do not grow on it, the air in it simply does not get wet (if changes in humidity do not exceed 25% percent). From all of the above it follows that in the case of ecowool, the vapor barrier need not be attached.

Another popular insulation material, polystyrene foam, actually has another more common name: polystyrene foam. It applies to both external and internal surfaces, and in the case of external insulation of loggias, balconies or attic floor does not require a vapor barrier - it itself copes well with this if the insulation technology is maintained. But if you are insulating interior spaces with polystyrene foam, vapor barrier and waterproofing are required to avoid the formation of fungus, mold and getting the walls wet.

Device

Purchasing a set of quality materials is only a third of success. In fact, these materials need to be installed correctly and arranged in the correct sequence. It is for this purpose that you should find out which side the vapor barrier is laid, how it is fixed, in what order, and what to nail first - a vapor barrier or insulation.

First you need to carry out preparatory work. At this stage, the type of coating that you will insulate, its performance characteristics and requirements for insulation and vapor barrier materials are identified.

So, the surface needs to be carefully prepared. This takes into account the type of material from which it is made. Wooden elements must be treated with compounds against aging, rotting and burning. In the case of concrete and brick, it is possible to use antiseptic compounds of deep penetration. Half the success in its operation depends on proper surface treatment.

If you are carrying out repairs or reconstruction, then pay attention to the fact that before insulation, all traces of the previous finishing must be removed and a complete cleaning must be carried out. And if we are talking about a log house, then all elements must be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics.

Vapor barrier on the ceiling

In the case of roofing structures and interfloor slabs, the installation of a vapor barrier is assumed on an already prepared and properly treated surface. It is best to use a diffusion membrane here.

The main difference between laying a vapor barrier on the ceiling and laying it on other surfaces is that in this case the insulation is laid first, and only then the membrane. This can be mineral or basalt wool in blocks or rolls. It is mounted between the joists and rafters. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the height of the logs, you will need to additionally install a slatted counter-lattice so that the ceiling is ventilated. After all this, you can work on the vapor barrier.

It should fall slightly onto the walls around the perimeter, the joints should be fastened to the joists - to ensure that moisture does not get into the space between the membrane and the insulation. Pay special attention to the corners - this problem areas, it is better to seal them additionally. Use reinforced tape or a construction stapler as a fastener.

In the case of insulation flat roof or concrete ceiling You can also use a regular vapor barrier film from the inside. It is attached to self-adhesive tape also after the insulation, and then the sheathing is installed - metal or wood.

Vapor barrier on the floor

In the case of laying a vapor barrier on a wooden floor, additional waterproofing must be installed. The floor is also insulated along the joists. Mineral wool or basalt-based wool is installed in the space between the logs. Next, without any additional work, the vapor barrier flooring is performed.

If we are talking about a rolled vapor barrier, it is laid with an overlap of 12-15 cm with the joints, gaps and cracks glued on both sides with metallized tape as thoroughly as possible. As in the case of ceiling insulation, the overlap on the walls should be within 10 cm.

For a concrete floor you will need sheathing. You will need to lay a waterproofing layer in the cells of the sheathing, a heat insulator on top, and after the mineral wool, the third layer is a vapor barrier.

Vapor barrier on walls

The process of insulation and vapor barrier of walls is a little more complicated than performing the same work on the ceiling or floor and implies a little large quantity stages. Let's consider the process of laying a vapor barrier film on the walls.

First of all, a frame is mounted from small cross-section bars. The size of the sheathing is determined by the width of the heat insulator block - the distance between the cells is equal to the width of one slab. Classically, mineral wool is used.

At this stage you should pay Special attention for possible gaps arising due to the difference in the width of the insulation, frame and vapor barrier. The cracks are sealed with reinforced tape, and the sheets of film are glued horizontally with a 15 cm overlap.

Installation subtleties

When installing a vapor barrier, special attention should be paid to important issues.

Which side should the vapor barrier be laid?

Very often masters find it difficult to answer this question, but everything is not so complicated. Ordinary film has the same front and back sides - and then it doesn’t matter which side it is laid on. But in the case of single-sided films, the situation is a little more complicated.

For example, antioxidant films have a fabric backing, and according to installation requirements, it must face the inside of the room. Vapor condensate films must be laid with the smooth side facing the insulation, and the rough side facing outwards. But with diffusion films, you should look directly at the instructions, since such films can be either one-sided or double-sided. Energy-saving films are laid with the foil side, on the contrary, outward - after all, they should reflect and not absorb heat. The same applies to metal coatings.

How to distinguish the outside from the inside?

This information should be indicated in the instructions or on the manufacturer’s website; you can ask a consultant or technician about this. However, if none of the above suits you, you will have to learn to determine the sides of the vapor barrier yourself.

So, remember: if the vapor barrier has two-color sides, then the light side will always fit against the insulation.

But also pay attention to how the vapor barrier roll is rolled out - the side facing the floor will be the inner side, and it should be placed against the insulation. In the case of a vapor barrier with a different surface, the smooth layer will always be the inner one, and the fleecy or rough one will always be the outer one.

What kind of fastener should I use?

This can be either a regular construction stapler or nails with a wide head, but counter-battens are considered to be the best option.

Is an air gap necessary near the membrane?

It is believed that this is a mandatory point - it is absolutely forbidden for the wall to come into close contact with the membrane; a gap of about five centimeters should be left for ventilation. Condensation will not accumulate this way. In the case of a diffusion vapor barrier, the air layer is made on the outside, and the film itself is laid directly on the insulation.

Do I need to tape the joints?

This is also mandatory - the individual parts of the vapor barrier should be hermetically connected to each other without forming gaps, the same applies to the places where the vapor barrier is attached to windows or doors. For this, self-adhesive tapes are used - double-sided or single-sided - usually made of polyethylene or butylene, propylene. These tapes not only perfectly hold membranes together, but are also used in their repair - they can be used to seal holes and cracks.

Under no circumstances use tape for this; it is better to contact a sales consultant at a building materials store or go to the website of the company from which you purchased the vapor barrier - as a rule, companies produce materials for repairing their products.

The main purpose of a vapor barrier is to prevent water pores from leaving the room through the insulation and surfaces. This means that the vapors, one way or another, remain in the room, and in order to prevent the humidity from increasing and the microclimate from being disturbed, it is necessary to carry out natural or forced ventilation in a timely manner.

If you are interested in the question of what kind of overlap to make if parts of the membrane overlap each other, then we advise you to pay attention to the films themselves. There are markings along their edges - they indicate how exactly the overlap of the films should be. Depending on the type and company, the value indicated there is no less than 10 cm and no more than 20.

And also pay attention to the angle of the roof slope. If it is less than 30 degrees, the overlap cannot be more than 10 cm. If it is less than 20 degrees, the overlap cannot be less than 20 cm.

For information on installing a roof vapor barrier and which side to lay the vapor barrier against the insulation, see the following video.

Construction of a residential building or its renovation is a long-term work, the result of which must be quality. Vapor barrier is a film that, together with other structural objects, interacts to stop the formation of condensation. Usually people carry it out during major renovations. Hydro-vapor barrier helps to increase the service life because it prevents moisture from penetrating into the insulated layer.

In winter, vapor barrier is especially important, since the temperature indoors and outdoors is significantly different - this leads to the formation of steam in the house, which must leave the room without any obstacles. Basements, attics, first floors, and interfloor partitions most need vapor insulation.

The walls don’t really need it if they are insulated from the outside. A sign of this may be that the surface does not allow air to pass through:

• surface covered with non-porous coating;
• a thick, continuous layer of waterproofing is applied;
• wall made of bricks.

There are other situations where a vapor barrier is not necessary. From all this we can summarize that walls, floors and ceilings insulated with mineral wool do not necessarily need protection from condensation. Vapor barrier is necessary only in cases where there is constant contact of warm air flow with the surface in the room.

Hydro-vapor barrier is one of the most important factors when insulating a residential building with mineral wool. This fence will help you overcome the dampening of walls, floors or ceilings by condensation (transition of a substance from gaseous to liquid state) upon contact of warm air air with the surface.

One of the main advantages of vapor barrier of a room is that it can be done independently, without having any specific abilities and skills. But what is mineral wool? This article will discuss this material, intended for insulating a room, and the reason for the need for vapor barrier outside and inside the room.

Mineral wool and its properties

The main indicator that shows the quality of insulation is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material. Mineral wool is a fibrous insulating material. For such insulation materials, the thermal insulation qualities depend on the specific water content in the material (moisture content).

When any liquid gets in, mineral wool absorbs it, pushing out the air. As the amount of humidity increases, the thermal insulation properties of mineral wool decrease. The main disadvantage is that the liquid that gets inside is difficult to remove from the material. Mineral wool can absorb 2/3 of its entire weight in liquid, but its performance deteriorates.

But despite the excessive accumulation of water, mineral wool has become widespread. In rooms where there is no constant contact with water, the use of this insulation is recommended.

Before insulating this material, it is important to cover the surface of these places with a special film that protects it from any moisture, but at the same time allows air flow to pass through:

• brick, frame walls;
• the outer side of the walls made of wood;
• floors;
• interfloor ceilings;
• the upper element of the building (roof).

Mineral wool can be made from various raw materials: glass, stone, or slag. Today, mineral wool is very popular in construction, in particular for room insulation. In particular, walls and ceilings are insulated with it. Mineral wool is also used for insulating furnaces and pipelines that have a high temperature, since this material is non-flammable. Additionally, mineral wool has soundproofing properties.

Mineral wool may contain potential dangers to the human body. But in fact, it contains fibers that are good for health. It is best to use it in a place that is regularly ventilated, or use ecowool. Ecowool consists of environmentally friendly materials.

Vapor barrier

The thermal insulation “pie” must allow air to pass through so that the room “breathes”. Therefore, the hot air flow escapes very slowly through the insulation fibers. With proper installation of insulation, this ability should increase from room to street.

There should be a ventilation gap of two centimeters under the decorative finishing of the walls and ceiling. Mineral wool is attached between the supports.

First, it is necessary to lay a wind and waterproofing barrier that will protect against precipitation and powerful gusty winds.

Partitions between rooms and interfloor ceilings need to be insulated using a different method, because air and moisture can impregnate mineral wool or ecowool from different sides, therefore, to preserve thermal and technical properties, a vapor barrier is required on both sides. In this case, residual moisture passes through the ventilation gap, which is located under the facade.

There are situations when hydro-vapor barrier when insulating with mineral wool or ecowool is not required at all.

For both waterproofing and vapor barrier, it is important to carry out a number of preparatory work:

• cleaning the coating from various dirt and dust;
• priming. This is necessary to seal surface cracks;
• drying the coating.

Vapor barrier of walls in the room

Types of vapor barrier

Vapor barrier is divided into two types:

• Rolled. Rolls are rolled out from the bottom of the item to the top. Next, they are secured with slats made of wood in a horizontal position. The gap for ventilation is located between the inner lining and the steam protective layer. This hole should be about five centimeters. After the procedure, check that everything is securely fastened.
• Leafy. To work with sheet material, you should first install a profile frame. Sheets must be mounted into this frame. Self-tapping screws or nails will help you secure the sheets. The joint areas must be covered with polyvinyl chloride (PVC film). The vapor barrier layer sheet is placed with the inner area towards the place that you want to insulate.

Installation of vapor barrier on the floor

Rules for attaching a vapor barrier layer

The reliability of fastening depends on screws or nails. Regardless of the location of the room, hydro-vapor barrier is established by general principles.

For the integrity of the vapor barrier coating, it is important to apply the layer in a continuous layer to avoid any holes or cracks. It is advisable to fasten the sheet with a furniture stapler. With the help of this construction tool, the vapor barrier film is attached closely to the surface of the insulated walls and a certain ceiling.

The vapor barrier layer is laid by overlapping individual rolls or sheets (depending on the types of vapor barrier) by 10-12 centimeters. In places with door and window openings, the sheets must be glued; this can be done using adhesive tape specially designed for this situation. But there is no need to stretch the vapor barrier film, otherwise due to sudden changes in air temperatures, it will not be able to maintain its integrity. It is attached with a margin of three centimeters.

Hydro-vapor barrier of a ceiling insulated with mineral wool or ecowool is also carried out with overlapping rolls or sheets. To protect the ceiling from steam and moisture, the interior and exterior of the room must be covered with waterproofing vapor barrier layers.

The outer part of the building should consist of three layers:

• paraisolating;
• thermal insulation;
• repeated vapor barrier;

Thanks to this, the service life is increased and the likelihood of condensation in your room is eliminated.

Floors made of reinforced concrete especially require protection from steam and moisture. Otherwise, sudden changes in air temperature will lead to the appearance of steam, which can cause fungus or mold to appear on the ceiling.

Vapor barrier – important element which will bring comfort and coziness to your home. Typically, a vapor barrier is installed together with waterproofing and thermal insulation. At independent work Several rules and nuances should be followed with the material. The choice is yours. This article could answer the question: is a vapor barrier necessary when insulating with mineral wool?

Insulating a wooden ceiling with mineral wool - is a vapor barrier necessary?

Hello! I have a related question - how to insulate the floor in a country house made of wood. When lying down, you can feel dampness from the floor, as well as a slight draft.
There are 600*1200*50mm penoplex slabs (extruded polystyrene foam) available for free. At first I wanted to insulate them with them, but I thought that they were very flammable and vapor-tight. those. If you close the tree from the basement, there will be no natural ventilation at all - it will rot faster. Then an idea was born - cover it with penoplex, but lay it on the floor boards themselves, and on the cross beam (see photo), so between the floor boards and the insulation there will be an air gap equal to the thickness of the beam, it would seem the problem is solved, but then the beam itself will suffer from a lack of ventilation, or more precisely the place where it adjoins the penoplex), which is in direct contact with the penoplex. or is it not scary? You will only have to insulate the outside, i.e. from the basement.

1. It’s stupid to cover the ground in the basement with expanded clay or sawdust.
2. Use mineral wool instead of penoplex. but it will be a bit expensive with all the wind and water protection. and it is not entirely advisable to insulate it from the basement. If it were inside, then yes.
3. Use foil penofol 1 cm thick. But the same problem with ventilating the boards.
   In general, I don't know. Because “Penoplex” - I have it lying around, I’m more inclined, of course, to it. but I will consider all options.

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Registration: 05/14/2006 Beloozerskiy Posts: 7186

09/08/2013 at 22:08

wall chaser1, I also insulated the floor in my house with penoplex. The idea is this: there are vents in the basement, the bottom and top are ventilated. And with mineral wool, one can put a vapor barrier. It may be wrong, but I haven’t found any convincing arguments against it.

In everything I want to get to the very essence.

Is a vapor barrier necessary when insulating with mineral wool?

Vapor barrier is one of mandatory layers insulating “pie” using mineral wool. The vapor barrier protects the insulation from moisture from condensation, which is formed when warm air comes into contact with the colder surfaces of the walls, ceilings, and floors of the house.

Why do you need to do a vapor barrier when insulating with mineral wool?

Mineral wool insulation is an effective type of thermal insulation that contributes to high heat conservation of the house, but has one significant drawback: when wet, mineral wool almost completely loses its insulating abilities, freezes and gradually collapses. In this case, moisture accumulating in the thickness of the heat insulator penetrates into decorative finishing interior spaces of the house, deforms it and contributes to the formation of fungus, mold, and rot. To prevent such Negative consequences, vapor barrier membranes - films - are placed in the “pie” of floors, roofs and walls of the house. shielding moisture, but allowing air to pass through.

Vapor barrier when insulating with mineral wool inside the house

The warm air circulating in the interior of the house is saturated with moist vapors that are evaporated by people, animals, plants, Appliances. Warm air masses tend to rise and accumulate under the ceiling of rooms, so it is extremely important to combine mineral wool with a vapor barrier when insulating the ceilings of attics and rooms adjacent to an unheated attic.

A certain amount of warm air leaks out of the house through the walls and floors - to avoid bloating floor coverings and destruction of the wall cladding, vapor barrier films are laid between a layer of mineral wool and the finishing finishing layer.

Vapor barrier when insulating with mineral wool outside the house

It is recommended to lay hydro-, wind- and vapor barrier films when insulating external walls of brick, frame and timber houses when installing ventilated facades. Multifunctional protective membranes are installed under siding, lining, blockhouse and other facade cladding - the film reliably screens out moisture and condensation, but allows air to pass through and allows the walls to “breathe”.

Modern types of vapor barrier films are super-diffuse and anti-condensation membranes, vapor barriers with a metallized layer - such innovative materials are produced under the Ondutis brand.

Conclusion

Mineral wool is widely used in external and internal insulation of private estates, as well as balconies, loggias and facades apartment buildings. The use of vapor barrier membranes in combination with mineral wool insulation helps protect the heat insulator from getting wet, deforming and, as a result, loss of heat-saving properties.

Sources:

Installation of film from the inside

High-quality insulation of walls, floors and ceilings guarantees a halving of heat loss. Is it possible to insulate an apartment or private house yourself? And what materials are advisable to choose, focusing on the design of the building.

Foam insulation is the most common option, but there is an alternative. Let's take a closer look at the nuances.

Materials for heat and vapor insulation

Price comparison table for different types insulation materials

Many people guess that the most common insulation materials are polystyrene foam and mineral wool. Let us now consider the differences, advantages and disadvantages of these two materials. After all, when starting insulation with your own hands, it is important to know the features and requirements for different finishing methods.

Mineral wool: 1 option

Technical characteristics of mineral wool for insulation

It is believed that this is the most inexpensive insulation option, but if you calculate more precisely, it turns out that the price of finishing is almost the same as that of foam plastic. Why? Mineral wool slabs must be laid on metal or wooden sheathing.

Polystyrene foam can be mounted directly to the wall. The advantage of the sheathing is guaranteed ventilation and vapor barrier of the space under the sheathing. The downside is the additional cost and load on the walls, which is unacceptable for old buildings with a weak foundation.

The photo shows a detailed list of mineral wool insulation materials

Advantages of mineral wool:

1. Does not burn.
2. It's inexpensive.
3. Guarantees good insulation and ventilation of the space under the finish, which eliminates the appearance of rot and mold.
4. Cotton wool is environmentally friendly and does not emit harmful volatile components.
5. Installation can be done independently.
6. High-quality insulation.

I advise you to choose mineral wool slabs or rolls with foil on one side. Such screens can reduce heat loss by half. If the walls are lined from the inside with mineral wool, then the layer covered with foil is placed inside the room.

Mineral wool is susceptible to moisture and dampness

Disadvantages of mineral wool for exterior finishing:

1. Installation of a metal or wooden sheathing frame is required.
2. The final decorative cladding is siding, wooden or plastic lining, brick, stone or clinker slabs.
3. The vapor conductivity of mineral wool is very high. But this is both good and bad. If you combine mineral wool with finishing materials with low vapor conductivity (lining), there is a high probability of moisture appearance.
4. Is a vapor barrier necessary when insulating with mineral wool? Yes, it is necessary, since moisture vapor easily penetrates through the fibers.

Laying glass wool trim must be done in a respirator and a special protective suit. This material is simply dangerous for the skin.

Foam boards: option 2

On the loggia, a vapor barrier is required when insulating with foam plastic

Insulation with expanded polystyrene is a hit of budget thermal insulation in suburban and urban construction. In the apartment you can decorate the walls facing the street, loggia, balcony. In a private house, polystyrene foam is useful for all insulation options, both for the sheathing and for the adhesive solution on the mesh.

Vapor and waterproofing - is it necessary when insulating with polystyrene foam? Waterproofing of the foundation and plinth is always necessary, especially when the ground is high groundwater Location on. A When installing slabs on an adhesive mixture, there is no need to install a vapor barrier layer, nor do you need to organize complex ventilation of the space under the finishing.

Advantages of polystyrene foam:

1. Retains heat well. Thermal insulation depends on the selected thickness of the foam sheet and additional decorative trim.
2. Easy installation and no need to install lathing.
3. There is no need to organize a layer of vapor insulation for external wall cladding.
4. High resistance to moisture and dampness.
5. Good shockproof properties.

Scheme for attaching external foam insulation without vapor barrier

But there are also significant disadvantages:

1. Expanded polystyrene melts when exposed to an open flame and then burns, so it is not recommended to place it under a fire hazard. external finishing(lining, wood, plastic).
2. It is better to choose dense polystyrene foam, it is more resistant to mechanical damage.
3. Unfortunately, rodents and birds love polystyrene foam, so it is very important to plaster walls insulated with foam plastic.

There is one more important point. Foam plastic does not allow moisture and steam to pass through, and installation of a vapor barrier is not required here. But this one is both good and bad. There is no need to insulate the room from the inside with this material, as many problems may eventually arise.

Advantages of external thermal insulation

The place where cold air flows from the street and warm air flows from the house meet is called the dew point. It is at this point that moisture accumulates, which is detrimental to the walls. When insulating with foam plastic from the inside, the dew point is transferred to the inner surface of the wall and mold and mildew begin to grow under the foam plastic.

If there is no other way out, then it is imperative to install a vapor barrier. Which side of the insulation should the vapor barrier be placed from the inside? Sandwich type: wall, vapor barrier, insulation, protective decorative finish.

Another disadvantage of insulating with foam plastic from the inside is the risk of the wall completely freezing and then thawing. The result is the rapid destruction of any material due to frequent freezing and thawing.

That is why it is possible to insulate a room from the inside only if external insulation is simply impossible (upper floors, inability to access external surfaces).

Application of penoizol

Separately, I would like to mention liquid penoizol. It is, of course, not cheap, but it guarantees even layer no gaps or cracks. An excellent solution for insulating basements and basements of houses made of any materials.

So, the insulation has been chosen, but how to install it correctly and why is a vapor barrier needed?

Vapor barrier - to install or not

Inexpensive option for external vapor barrier

If the finishing is carried out using mineral wool, then installation of a vapor barrier is necessary, since the wool allows hot air vapor to pass through well. When working with polystyrene foam and penoplex, the issue of installing additional vapor barrier must be decided depending on the design of the house and the insulation option.

Vapor barrier is a building material that prevents the penetration of moisture vapor into the internal structures of walls, floors and ceilings. The use of a vapor barrier is necessary for internal insulation, since it is from the room that warm, moist air rushes to the street.

Insulation of walls from the inside using wooden sheathing

When installation of a vapor barrier is necessary:

• The outside walls of the house are finished with mineral wool, without additional waterproofing and high-quality protective finishing of the facade.

• It is necessary to install a vapor barrier from the inside if the external cladding is made in the form of a sandwich of mineral wool and decorative cladding on a frame made of wood or metal.
• Which side to lay the vapor barrier towards the insulation - it all depends on the material chosen for finishing. For film this issue is not fundamental, but for other membrane vapor protection this is important, but first things first.
• Frame houses necessarily require the installation of internal vapor barrier, since wood is very sensitive to moisture.

A layer of waterproofing on top of mineral wool

• The design features of a wooden house also require the mandatory installation of a vapor barrier. After all, moisture from warm rooms always strive outward, creating ideal conditions for wood rotting .
• When constructing a ventilated façade, a layer of mineral wool is placed between two layers (hydro- and vapor barriers). From the outside, protection from moisture is required, and from the inside, mounted on the walls, from hot air vapors.

Lathing for siding

Craftsmen believe that this design eliminates the need to install wind protection. Its functions are performed by a vapor barrier. This method is especially relevant when finishing the facade with siding.

Also, when insulating using a sandwich type, you must not forget about a well-thought-out ventilation system under the skin. To do this, the instructions recommend the installation of ventilation gaps (especially for siding, lining and mineral wool).

The air entering through the holes dries the moisture droplets, which will certainly settle on the vapor barrier.

What material to choose for a high-quality vapor barrier

Reflective Screen Film

Now on sale you can find three types of film for vapor barrier devices. Let's look at the pros and cons of each of them:

1. Polyethylene film - cheap and cheerful. It, of course, protects the walls from vapors and moisture, but creates a greenhouse effect, since it does not allow air to pass through at all. Therefore, when choosing a film, you need to be sure of high-quality ventilation of the space under the finishing.
2. Mastic – perfect solution for vapor barrier when facing with plasterboard from the inside. The material is applied over drywall, allows air to pass through perfectly, but retains moisture vapor from the room. In addition, the mastic ensures that there are no gaps that cause dew points to appear. The mastic is applied before finishing.
3. Membrane film is a new generation finishing. Guarantees high-quality ventilation and does not allow moisture to pass through. Which side to attach the vapor barrier with membrane film to the insulation? The smooth side is towards the insulating material, the fleecy side is outwards.

Membrane films are the most convenient and reliable building material, so we will consider them in more detail.

Types of membrane film for vapor barrier

Vapor insulation over a layer of mineral wool

The film has many tiny holes that provide ventilation but do not allow moisture to pass under the skin. It is important which side this or that film is placed on. Typically, the manufacturer puts marks on the material that indicate where air penetrates through the film.

Three types of such insulation can be found on sale:

1. A vapor barrier for external insulation is an ideal solution for ventilated facades and frame buildings. The most common and relatively inexpensive are Megaizol-A and Izospan-A.
2. Vapor barrier for interior work - the same Izospan and Megaizol, but marked “B”. This is a two-layer polyethylene film, on one side it does not allow moisture to pass through.
3. Insulation with heat-reflecting screens - on one side the material is covered with a layer of foil. It is advisable to use in baths and saunas, that is, in rooms with high humidity and high temperatures. The most common vapor barriers are “Izospan FS”, “Izospan FD” and “Izospan FX”.

Such screens are also good for increasing the heat transfer of indoor radiators. They are often mounted behind a radiator, and it heats the room, not the wall.

Summary

You can watch and study the information more clearly in the video in this article. If you, my dear readers, have any interesting comments and additions, let's discuss them in the comments.

I hope that the information that I have collected for you here will help you make your choice and draw the right conclusions.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

During construction country house or a private bath, an important step is the thermal insulation of various surfaces. In addition, the insulation itself needs high-quality and reliable vapor barrier protection. To prevent the negative impact of external factors and the formation of condensation on the thermal insulator, any homeowner should have a general understanding of how to properly install a vapor barrier to ensure the long life of the entire structure.

Membrane structure and operating principle

The most popular for their performance characteristics are breathable multilayer membranes, which are designed to create reliable vapor barrier protection.

They consist of three layers, each of which performs an important function. The first layer prevents the penetration of steam into the insulation, the second provides the necessary strength of the base, and the third protects against moisture from the outside.

Each individual layer has the necessary perforation for good air exchange. The first layer removes excess moisture, allowing dried air to penetrate. The reinforcing layer retains warm air masses inside thanks to a special weaving of threads. The third layer provides a sufficient level of traction inside the structure.

Some types of membranes have an additional anti-condensation layer based on viscose or cellulose. It retains excess moisture deposited on the paper fibers. To naturally remove moisture from the membrane, a technological gap of 2.5 cm is provided between the vapor barrier and the finishing surfaces.

Features of vapor barrier installation

An important stage in protecting insulating materials is laying a reliable vapor barrier layer. All work is carried out during the repair or reconstruction of a finished building or during the construction of a new building. To correctly install a vapor barrier, you need to understand how to connect membrane sheets and which side to fix them to the insulating base.

Preparatory work

At this stage, work is carried out to select the appropriate type of vapor barrier, taking into account the features of the installation process, operational characteristics and material requirements.

Before laying a vapor barrier, careful surface preparation will be required. It is important to consider the type of material used in the construction of floors, walls, ceilings and roofing structures.

1. During the construction of a log house, all structural elements are processed protective antiseptics and fire retardants.
2. When carrying out repair and reconstruction work, complete dismantling of the finishing, cleaning and preparation of surfaces is carried out:

Wooden elements are treated with compounds against aging, rotting and burning. Concrete, block and brick surfaces are treated with deep penetration antiseptic compounds.

Proper preparation of surfaces will ensure a long service life of the insulating material and the entire structure.

Technology for laying vapor barrier on the ceiling

If the roof structure and interfloor ceiling are made of wood, then the installation of a membrane for waterproofing is carried out on a prepared base.

Roll or block insulation is installed in the space between the rafters and joists, the best option– mineral or basalt wool. Next, you can lay vapor barrier protection on the ceiling surface.

When the thickness of the insulation is equal to the height of the logs, an additional slatted counter-lattice is installed to maintain natural ventilation.

It is necessary to install a vapor barrier on the ceiling with a slight overlap on the walls around the perimeter, and special attention should be paid to the corners. It is better to place the joints on the joists and glue them on both sides with tape on a reinforced base.

Important! When installing a vapor barrier, sagging and deformation of the panels should be avoided.

For thermal insulation of flat roofs or concrete ceiling A waterproofing film is mounted on the inside on a self-adhesive tape, then a sheathing made of wood or metal is installed.

The height of the sheathing is determined based on the thickness of the thermal insulation material and the minimum technological gap for ventilation. The installation step is 3 cm narrower than the width of the heat insulator, which allows for high-quality installation of the insulator into the prepared sheathing cells.

Technology for laying vapor barrier on the floor

The installation scheme for vapor barrier protection on the floor is similar to how the material is laid on wall and ceiling surfaces.

The wooden floor is insulated using joists, on which a waterproofing layer is laid. Next, insulation is placed in the space between them - wool on a mineral or basalt basis. After this, vapor barrier material is laid.

The rolled material must be laid with an overlap of 12 cm, with the joints carefully sealed with metallized tape on both sides. A properly laid vapor barrier should completely cover the floor surface with an overlap of up to 10 cm on the walls.

To install a vapor barrier on a concrete base, you will need to install a sheathing, in the cells of which a waterproofing layer and a heat insulator will be laid.

Choosing a side for installing a vapor barrier

Once the material for the vapor barrier has been selected, an important question to consider is which side to attach the vapor barrier to the insulation. Such materials can be fixed as follows:

• Polyethylene films (reinforced and plain) are laid on any side, which does not impair the protective properties of the material.
• Foil films are installed with the reflective side facing the inside of the room to effectively reflect heat.
• Anti-condensation films are mounted with a fabric surface inside the room, treated - to a heat-insulating base.
• Membranes of any type are attached with a smooth surface to the heat insulator, and with a rough surface - inside the room.
• Foam-based insulators are laid similarly to membrane materials.

Important! Before laying the vapor barrier to the insulation, it is recommended to spread the prepared material on a flat surface for correct definition internal and external sides.

The face or the back of a vapor barrier?

If a breathable membrane is used to create a protective barrier, the main thing is to determine which side to lay the vapor barrier on - face or back.

The vapor barrier cake must be placed so that the protection is directed towards the heat insulator on both sides with the smooth back side, and with the rough front side facing the inside of the room.

The rough surface provides protection against moisture penetration into the insulation, and smooth surface promotes maximum heat accumulation.

Determining the width of the overlap when installing the membrane

There are special markings along the edge of the insulating membrane to determine the width of the overlap of the sheets, which ranges from 8 to 20 cm.

The vapor barrier strips on the roof should be laid in a horizontal plane from bottom to top, overlapping each other with a width of 15 cm. At the ridge the overlap is 18 cm, at the valley - 25 cm.

On walls, ceilings and floors, the canvases are mounted with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Is a layer required for ventilation?

At the bottom of the membrane vapor barrier there is a 5-centimeter ventilation gap, which helps prevent the formation of condensation on surfaces and the heat insulator.

Diffusion membranes can be attached to insulation, plywood sheets or OSB. In a membrane with an anti-condensation layer, gaps up to 6 cm wide are located on both sides.

To create a gap for ventilation when insulating the roof structure, a counter-lattice is used. In the process of fastening a ventilated facade, a technological gap is created when installing racks located perpendicular to the vapor barrier.

Elements for fastening vapor barrier

To securely fasten membrane or film vapor barriers, wide-headed nails or metal construction staples are used. Most practical option fasteners - counter rails.

To increase the tightness of the structure individual elements vapor barriers are additionally sealed with double-sided adhesive tape or wide metallized tape.

To ensure a long service life of modern insulation, high-quality vapor barrier protection is required. Otherwise, it will be difficult to obtain the optimal ratio of temperature and humidity indicators in the premises. The main thing in this matter is to choose the right one suitable material and know how and which side to lay to the heat insulator.

There are many different insulation materials. Foil insulating material reflects up to 97% of infrared radiation in the direction of its arrival.

It is made on the basis of polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam, mineral and basalt wool. Its effectiveness will depend on proper installation.

In this article, we will look at which side to lay insulation with foil on the floor, the types and characteristics of materials, and the rules for their installation.

What is foil insulation?

The reflective layer can be found on one or both sides

This is a combined material that consists of a layer of aluminum foil or metallized film connected to a thermal insulation material. The reflective layer can be one-sided or two-sided. It is easy and quick to install due to its elasticity. Thinner than other thermal insulation materials.

Aluminum coating has maximum heat reflection properties, but is destroyed by alkalis in concrete. The metallized coating is resistant to alkaline influences. Spraying practically does not perform its function.

In addition to preserving heat, it can be used as waterproofing, as it does not allow moisture to pass through. How thinner layer foil, the better it allows heat to pass through itself.

Types of insulation

There is a wide variety of foil insulation.

They differ in the materials used in manufacturing.

The characteristics of insulation with a layer of foil are described in the table:

№	Foil material	Characteristic
1	Expanded polystyrene	Durable, reliable insulating material produced in form of hard slabs It is used for thermal insulation of water and electric heated floors. Operation in the temperature range from -180 to +180 degrees
2	Mineral wool	Environmentally friendly, fireproof material, 50-100 mm thick. Manufactured in slabs, rolls and cylinders. It is used in all areas of insulation work.
3	Foamed polyethylene
4	Foamed polyethylene	Available in rolls, covered with aluminum foil. The material has a small thickness from 2 to 10 mm. The bottom layer can be self-adhesive.

When choosing, you need to take into account the requirements for the room and its functional purpose. The top layer should be covered with aluminum foil and not sprayed.

Properties

The materials used in production are most often environmentally friendly, safe for health and the environment.

Advantages:

• light weight;
• durability;
• protection against moisture penetration;
• high rates of heat saving and sound insulation;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• ease of installation;
• high reflective properties.

Such insulation can be used in any premises. In addition to the described qualities, it is capable of reflecting radiation.

Laying methods

Let's consider which side is the correct way to lay the insulation with foil on the floor.

Heat-saving properties depend on how correctly the insulation is installed.

Foil reflects infrared radiation, therefore, the metallized layer must be laid so that it faces the inside of the room.

Insulation of concrete floor

Place the casing with the foil side down

Most often, roll material is fixed to concrete base with a special rubber-based adhesive.

Installation sequence:

1. We prepare the surface. We level the slab so that there is no large difference in height. We seal all cracks and cracks with cement mortar.
2. We spread the material on the floor with the foil layer facing up and cut it to the required length. We move the strip aside and apply glue to the place where it is laid. Let it sit for a few minutes according to the instructions for the glue. We lay and press the material well. We place the strips close to each other.
3. We secure the joints with foil tape, which is sold in hardware stores.

For additional insulation of cold floors, wooden logs can be laid on top, the space between which is filled with slab insulation. Floorboards or sheet material (OSB, fiberboard, chipboard) are placed on top of it. For an interesting comparison of foil materials, watch this video:

You can secure the material with double-sided tape glued around the perimeter or dowels.

Wood floor insulation

It is most convenient to lay the material on an adhesive layer

It is most convenient to lay foil insulation on a wooden floor, which has a bottom self-adhesive layer.

If you bought material without an adhesive base, then you need to fix it with staples using a construction stapler or with double-sided tape.

Laying sequence:

1. We remove the baseboards, remove debris and dust using a vacuum cleaner.
2. If there are any unevenness on the boards, we grind them with a special machine, and if necessary, perform sanding (remove upper layer boards).
3. We seal all existing cracks with wood putty.
4. We prime with an antiseptic composition.
5. We measure the room, cut the roll, and lay it up with foil. It can be easily cut to the right size sharp sewing scissors.
6. Lay out the strips end to end. We wait a day for the material to settle and straighten out. If the heat insulator has a self-adhesive base, gradually remove protective film and press firmly to the surface. We lay the next strip end-to-end.
7. We fix the joints of the strips with foil tape.

Once the material has been laid, the selected flooring can be installed.

Foil insulation for heated floors

When laying insulation under heated floors, lay the material with the foil facing up so that it reflects heat into the room

The base for heated floors must be flat without differences in height or defects. All errors must be eliminated.

Stages of laying thermal insulation with a layer of foil:

1. We lay out the foil material in strips end to end, and glue the joints with special tape.
2. We install a system of electric or water heated floors on top.
3. We lay hydro- and vapor barrier material. It will prevent concrete from leaking onto the floor heating elements.
4. We fill the screed with a thickness of 30-50 mm, depending on the type of heating elements and the functional purpose of the room.

Warm floors can only be turned on after the screed has completely dried. This will take about a month.

Insulation under floating screed

Having bought a two-layer material, you don’t have to bother with the question of which side to lay the insulation on

Characterized by the fact that the plate is not rigidly fastened to concrete screed, thermal insulation is laid between them.

Installation sequence:

1. We prepare the base and eliminate all defects.
2. We plaster the lower part of the walls.
3. We stick damper tape around the perimeter of the walls; its height should be equal to the thickness of the floor: from the slab to the floor covering.
4. We prime the base in two layers. Apply the next layer after the previous one has dried.
5. We lay thermal insulating foil boards with the foil facing up. We use a metallized coating that is resistant to cement mortar. We lay the slabs strictly in a horizontal plane, close to each other. Uneven laying of insulation boards contributes to the formation of cracks in the concrete solution.
6. We glue the joints of the plates with tape.
7. We pour the concrete screed.

Lightweight and durable insulation with a layer of foil is becoming increasingly popular among consumers and professional builders due to its high heat retention and ease of installation. For more information about isolation, watch this video:

We looked at how to properly lay foil material for high-quality insulation floor. Thermal insulating material is always laid with foil on the outside; if you lay it the other way around, it will not retain heat fully.