There is one feature on my site - a stream flowing from the collective farm fields. In order to somehow fit it into the surrounding reality, as well as to ensure a safe passage, a bridge was thrown across it. It was made from wood about 10 years ago, so it was already quite rotten and lost its former strength. It seems to look organic from the outside, but it’s already scary to cross it. And let the children in even more so! Therefore, I decided to remove the old bridge and build a new one - from metal. I would like to present a detailed description of this construction to your consideration.
I immediately decided on the design of the new building - the bridge would be humpbacked, with bent metal handrails and wooden decking. I found a suitable drawing on the Internet and modified it a little to suit existing realities. Then, along the way, some profiles were replaced by others, and the sizes varied. But overall the project turned out to be working and was implemented.
Bridge design on working drawing
The bent parts of the structure were ordered from local craftsmen. Unfortunately, they turned out to be not entirely responsible, so I had to finalize some details myself. I'll mention this later.
Brought blanks of bent bridge elements
So, we brought the parts and unloaded them. For the handrails, I selected 4 arches that were most similar in shape. It turned out to be not so simple - they were all different (thanks, “masters”!). I don’t have a workbench for such structures, so I started welding the sidewalls on a paved area.
I simply laid out the arcs and vertical posts on the surface, achieving horizontality by placing various pieces of wood and plywood under them. It turned out to be quite convenient. Checked against laser level, everything is smooth, no “screws”.
Connection of bent handrails with vertical posts (by welding)
I welded the first side, then laid out the elements of the second side on top of it and also connected them by welding. The lower part of the bridge supports will be underground, they will not be visible, so I made these parts from a corner. I had a lot of it collecting dust in my workshop, there was nowhere to put it, and besides, it was a pity to use pipes for the “underground” parts.
I welded all sorts of metal scraps-fangs onto the legs to better hold the supports in the concrete.
“Fangs” from metal scraps are welded onto the racks that will be concreted
Step 2. Destruction of the old
It's time for dismantling. In a couple of hours, the old wooden bridge, which had become unusable, was dismantled. The site for the new bridge has been cleared.
An old wooden bridge that has served its purpose
The old bridge has been destroyed, the space for installation has been cleared
Step 3. Connecting the sidewalls into one structure
In a wheelbarrow I brought the almost finished sidewalls and various profiles necessary for the design to the stream. On site I welded the gussets and the main elements of holding the flooring to the sidewalls. I welded all the voids where water could theoretically get in.
I did not spare electrodes, since the quality of welding of the holding parts determines how safe movement along the bridge will be. I didn’t clean the seams, I thought that they wouldn’t be visible anyway. And there is no need for extra work.
For rigidity, I welded buttresses on the sides. As for me, they don’t look very organic against the background of the curving sides. They are too straight, sharp, in general, not quite what I wanted. But toughness requires sacrifice. Let them remain like this.
The lower parts of the bridge supports will be in concrete, I covered them with paint - later there will be no access to them.
Step 4. Installation of the bridge and concreting the supports
And then he started drilling wells. I took a drill and drilled 2 holes on both banks of the stream almost to their entire depth (about a meter).
I placed the structure supports in the holes and leveled them vertically with a building level. For installation rigidity, filled free place in the holes with rubble stone. Now the supports stood like a glove and did not move anywhere.
Next is pouring concrete. At first I made a liquid mixture so that the concrete would seep between the stones without any problems. The next batch was already thicker. I don’t know what grade of concrete was ultimately used, but I’m sure that a bridge built on such a solution will stand for many years and not move.
The bridge is installed, its supports are concreted in the holes
Step 5. Welding of internal arches and balusters
First, I welded internal arcs onto the sidewalls.
Internal arches are welded to the vertical posts of the sidewalls of the bridge
Between them, in accordance with the plan, baluster posts should be located. They had to be measured in place and then cut off - not a single one was the same. Step by step, I welded all the balusters.
The balusters are fixed in place - between the internal arches
Step 6. Correcting bent handrail elements
It would seem that the metal elements are finished, but that was not the case. One flaw that my irresponsible metal bending craftsmen made haunted me. I mean the curved ends of the handrails.
They looked just terrible, so without thinking twice, I cut them down. And then I decided to do it myself, in a more decent performance.
I don’t have a bending machine; making one or buying one for these purposes is irrational. The only way that seemed acceptable to me was to cut notches on pieces of pipe and bend the metal along them.
First, I calculated, taking into account the difference between the internal and external lengths of the arcs, the number of notches and their width. On the pipe scraps I marked the location of the notches in increments of 1 cm. I first cut in a circle of 1 mm, and then cut (not completely) a little wider - in a circle of 2.25 mm.
The result was something similar to a washboard, which could already be bent. This is what I did, fixed it in the required form and brewed it with outside. I didn’t touch the inside; I didn’t want to have to worry about cleaning it later.
Thanks to the notches, I was able to bend the workpieces and give them the required form
Since initially the blanks for the ends of the handrails were taken with a reserve, after fitting on site, the excess part of the pipes was cut off. The blanks were welded to the handrails.
I decided to weld the open ends too, so as not to put plastic plugs. They would look like metal structure foreign and cheap. After welding, the bent parts were carefully cleaned to a shine. They turned out great, almost perfect handrails!
To protect the banks from erosion, they had to be reinforced with pipes and boards. All these reinforcing structures will not be visible, so I did not strive for special beauty. The main thing is that it turned out reliably.
Step 7. Putty and paint
It's time to correct another shortcoming that the manufacturers made metal blanks. Some profiles were of poor quality, with noticeable dents. This had to be cleaned up somehow. Automotive metal putties came to the rescue - I had 2 types.
First I filled the deepest dents with coarse putty and fiberglass, then used finishing putty. At the same time I putty the finish and internal surfaces the ends of the handrails (where there was no welding). I had to work quickly, as the putty hardens in an instant. I hesitated a little and everything had already frozen, I had to make a new batch.
Now the metal surfaces of the bridge seem almost perfect. Can be painted. I chose a classic color for the design – black. All metal surfaces were painted in 2 layers.
The metal parts of the structure are painted black - a completely different look!
Step 8. Installation of wooden flooring
It was time to plank the bridge. For several years I had a very high-quality larch board with a ribbed corduroy surface lying in my shed for several years. That's what I decided to use.
The board has a ribbed surface - the flooring will not be slippery
Unfortunately, larch has one unpleasant feature. When it dries, it releases sharp splinters that can easily scratch and injure you. Having taken the boards out of the barn, I saw that this time the entire front side was strewn with such chips. The reverse side was in at its best, so it was decided to use it as a front for flooring.
The boards needed to be prepared. I treated them with a priming antiseptic to prevent rotting and to increase their service life. Dried it out. And then covered it with waste machine oil. There was an idea to varnish the flooring, but I didn’t dare. Still, there is a high probability that the varnish will crack in humid conditions.
I didn’t want to jeopardize the work of many days. Therefore, I settled on antiseptic and oil - this should be enough for several years of use. However, I plan to renew the oil layer every year so as not to worry about possible problems with rotting.
The boards are dried in a vertical position after treatment with an antiseptic and oil
Then I screwed the boards to the horizontal deck holders using metal screws. I left a small distance between the boards so that any water that gets in could flow into a stream and not linger on the flooring. Still, the wooden deck remains the weak link in the bridge and the possibility of rotting in the existing damp conditions must be prevented by all means.
The result is a good humpback bridge that can be used without fear. And you can walk without getting your feet wet, and decorative function present.
Final view of the humpbacked metal bridge with wooden decking
I hope my master class will not be useless and will be useful to someone in landscape art - I will be only too glad!
H
It is often necessary to move across a ditch; this requires laying a pipe in the ditch (making drainage) and performing certain operations on backfilling and installation road surface, which will be discussed in this article. You can often make a drive through a ditch to a plot of land at your dacha with your own hands without using pipes, we will also tell you about this.
Content:
1.
1.1
1.2
1.3
2.
2.1
3.
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.4
3.5
4.
5.
The very first thing we will do is consider the pipe options and choose the appropriate one. Taking into account the load on crossing the ditch, we will choose the optimal depth of the pipe, the method of constructing the base for the pipe and methods for organizing the bedding and road, crossing the ditch on top of the pipe. Let's consider several special options and you will learn how to make a crossing over a ditch with your own hands at the dacha or with the help of the services of companies or workers in your case.
Which pipe to use for crossing a ditch?
First, let's decide which pipe to use for the free flow of water in the ditch of our crossing. There are three main materials:
- plastic,
- metal,
- reinforced concrete.
Let's look at each in more detail and several other options for a summer residence or country house, for example, a device for crossing a ditch without a pipe using reinforced concrete slabs or using asbestos-cement pipes, which are not often used, but for some reason you just have them stored.
Important Before purchasing a pipe, find out its characteristics, namely what load it can take, by consulting with the seller.
Using plastic pipes to cross a ditch
The main advantage over other types of pipes is ease of installation and a light weight. No special equipment is required for installation, since the pipes are light enough to be installed with your own hands.
Modern plastic pipes are strong enough to withstand the weight of passing cars, resistant to temperature changes from -60 to +95 degrees. The material is not subject to corrosion and such pipes are not expensive.
The only negative is the depth of placement. Such a pipe should be laid at least 30-40 cm deep; it will not be possible to ride on it directly with vehicles.
Reinforced concrete pipes
Such a pipe can be used for moving and not buried, but this is again not advisable. It is advisable to bury any pipe, but if there is no other way out, and the depth of the ditch is not great and the pipe will stick out a little from the surface, then reinforced concrete is the ideal option.
Having received a plot of land, many discover a ditch or even a small ravine on it, which is long and difficult to fill; it is easier to build bridges for landscaping the dacha with your own hands.
What is the best material to make a bridge from?
When it comes to materials for a bridge over a ditch, almost all owners begin to remember where the boards and timber are located, but at the same time someone begins to think about trusses from a corner or channel. Without any doubt, metal welded bridges for dachas are much stronger and more durable than wooden ones, but it is better to use them near water stainless steel, which is not cheap. Regular iron will rust even if painted regularly.
In addition, a corner or channel is more appropriate in technical structures, but not in decorative ones, and it is quite difficult to assemble structures from them with your own hands.
If metal seems like the best addition to your landscape design, choose forged products, which will not only allow you to install a beautiful bridge with openwork railings, but also create a composition with a similar gazebo. As supports, many are trying to install concrete “bulls” - supports in the middle of the bridge span, or metal piles. However, such a decision is justified only if the site is cut across by a deep and, most importantly, wide ravine.
It will be enough to span a span across a stream or a small ditch without intermediate supports, with a maximum of two abutments at the ends. That is why, to make a bridge with your own hands, a few long beams with a section of 15x15, and with a short span, 10x10, are enough. In fact, even an ordinary log with a longitudinal cut can serve as an excellent and durable foundation for a bridge.
If you are a proponent of thoroughness, you can use natural stone. Moreover, the straight and humpbacked spans spanning rivers and gorges look very picturesque. But when choosing this option, prepare yourself in advance for multi-day and rather complex construction. By the way, just when working with stone, or more precisely, with concrete, which will be needed for pouring the base, you will also need metal very useful, but not a channel, of course, but only an angle and steel reinforcement. If you prefer lightweight structures, you can get by with just boards, which, when placed on edge, are in no way inferior in strength to timber.
Which bridge design should you choose?
In rural areas, to overcome narrow obstacles, which, however, cannot be simply stepped over, 2-3 logs, tied or stapled, are often used. In such cases, as a railing, either a perch is placed on posts dug on both sides of a ditch or stream, or a stretched rope is tied. Such a decorative bridge looks organically against a pastoral background, and therefore can be used to decorate the landscape of your site.
A log with a longitudinal cut can be laid across a stream, ditch or small pond, across which wooden planks are laid as a flooring. The above options are the simplest, except for large flat stones placed at a short distance from each other across the stream bed. However, boulders as a replacement for a bridge are not always appropriate, in particular, they are unsuitable for walking, respectable and elderly people, and are also unsafe for children.
Therefore, large stones are best used as supports on which, for example, granite or basalt slabs with a rough surface will be laid. If the stream is shallow enough and there is no risk of falling from the resulting decorative bridge, you can do without railings.
More complex, but no less beautiful design can be knocked together from timber and ordinary boards, or assembled and welded from metal. The easiest option to implement is a straight platform with railings on one side. A humpbacked bridge for a dacha looks much more impressive, but not everyone can make it with their own hands. But an intermediate scheme for constructing a span is quite accessible, when several wide steps lead to the main deck from both ends (over a narrow stream you will get an almost humpbacked bridge). This type will tower over the area and provide an excellent vantage point.
Choosing a place for the bridge
It would seem that this question does not require clarification: there is a stream and a deck that can be thrown across the riverbed - everything is simple. However, if there is no water hazard or ravine on the site, it turns out decorative bridge will no longer become a garden decoration at your dacha? Of course, such a structure in the middle of a lawn will look ridiculous; the span should be thrown, if not over a ditch, then at least over a flower bed.
Let's look at several options for what to do when you want to add a bridge to your landscape design, but there is nothing to throw it over. Actually, there is already one solution - a transition over the flower bed. In this case, a humpback bridge or a stepped structure is suitable, or, as an option, a straight span with ramps at both ends.
If you don’t have a stream on your site, you can create one with your own hands by laying out an artificial riverbed from different-sized stones, very similar to the real one (if you don’t take into account such a trifle as the lack of water). To create the illusion of a stream, tint sand and small crushed stones blue and azure and place them between the cobblestones. Another option for installing a bridge is a small island in the center of a pond or even a swimming pool. If the area of the man-made reservoir is large, the size of the island can be made such that it can accommodate a table and a couple of benches.
Bridge construction work on a garden plot
To make the flooring you will need a frame, and you can make it yourself from wood in two ways: by installing the boards on edge or by laying them flat. The first option will require less lumber, but the span will most likely be straight, since bending the board along the plane is a long and difficult task. The maximum that can be done is to give it a slight bend by cutting off part of the edge along an arc. It is much easier to build wooden humpbacked bridges for a summer house from planks placed flat, so let’s go exactly this way, considering various possibilities assemblies.
To fly through a narrow ditch, two boards with overall dimensions 3x18x200 centimeters. They are connected to each other by thinner crossbars, nailed to the bottom at the ends, as substrates. However, you can connect the foundation logs with two beams; they will also serve as “supports” for the bridge. If the flooring needs to be thrown over a long distance, under the load-bearing boards, along the outer edge of the frame, it is advisable to fill the beams of the appropriate length, with a cross-section of at least 10x10, and only then attach the cross members.
Next, we begin to form the ledges. To do this, we lay shorter boards of the same 3-centimeter thickness directly along the load-bearing joists of the frame at an equal distance from the ends. Thus, if your frame is 3 meters long and you want the steps to be 40 centimeters wide, the next board should be 0.8 meters shorter than the base. If you want higher steps, use 10x10 timber instead of the boards that form them (including load-bearing ones), this will only make the bridge stronger and more durable. True, it will be more difficult to put together such a frame, and, most likely, you will have to use it from the inside of the frame metal plates for reliable connection of beams.
Now you can start laying the flooring. To do this, you need narrower boards, 10 centimeters (commensurate with the cross-section of the beam), with a thickness of at least 2 centimeters and a length exceeding or equal to the width of the base frame. You will need quite a lot of them, so it is logical that you need to stock up on all the materials before you get ready to build a bridge over a ditch or ravine in your country house. First, we fill the boards onto the ends of the ledges, starting from the very bottom, that is, from the frame if it was assembled from timber. If the steps are made of boards, then we immediately begin installing the flooring. The crossbars can be nailed closely or at small intervals.
Assembling balusters and handrails for the bridge
So, the span is ready, and completely made with your own hands, and if it is installed in the garden, how decorative element, then you can leave it like that. But when used for its intended purpose, that is, to overcome a stream or ditch, it is advisable to make a railing. This is what we will do now. The handrail posts themselves, or, in other words, wooden balusters, you can buy ready-made, carved ones, or adapt thin bars. If the cross-section of the posts at the bottom is square, all that remains is to screw them with long screws to the base so that the upper ends are at the same level.
If the cross-section is round, it is better to carefully cut off the plane on one side and secure it with screws. If necessary, cut down part of the baluster from below. All that remains is to install the handrails, for which we take 2 bars and, having measured the spaces between the balusters on them, drill shallow holes in the appropriate places. Then we place them on posts and secure them to the side or top with screws. It is better to install the finished bridge not on the ground, but on pre-cast ones. concrete platforms.
It often happens that the only convenient entrance to a site is blocked by a drainage or drainage ditch. This creates additional difficulties in the construction of the access area and complicates the work on landscaping and paving. Today we will share the main tricks for driving through a ditch.
Terrain reconnaissance - what we are dealing with
A ditch next to a site, be it a drainage trench or a natural stream, is always part of a larger complex system responsible for the hydrogeological balance of waters over a fairly large area. Failure to operate this system almost always and quite quickly leads to flooding and soaking of the soil, including its supporting layers. It is in your interests to carry out such structures competently and in accordance with technical regulations.
It is necessary to transfer the profile of the ditch to scale onto the sketch, reflecting the gentleness of the slopes and the topography of the adjacent territory. Based on the two highest points from which the descent begins, the width of the ditch is determined, and the difference between the line connecting these points and the bottom of the ditch is conventionally taken as the height. Don’t make a mistake in your calculations: usually under one or both banks there are dumps of soil, over the years under open air turned into gentle ramparts. You need to start from the plane of the adjacent territory, without taking into account the “swells” in front of and behind the ditch.
If the stream is natural, one bank may be lower than the other, while each remains in its own plane. In this situation, it will be necessary to artificially raise the lower level by embankment. Note that the methods we describe are suitable for constructing passages through a ditch up to 2.5 meters deep and 5-6 meters wide; larger ditches require an individual and professional approach.
Ground leveling and ditch clearing
The passage width can be up to four meters (for trucks), while one meter on each side is left as protective zones that do not bear the operational load. In general, the width of the area that will be graded is 6 meters, which correlates well with the standard length of pipes used for drainage.
The first planning task is to give the ditch a constant profile across the entire width of the passage, eliminating bends and narrowings. The trench at the passage site should take the shape of an inverted trapezoid with a flat bottom, from 40 cm to a meter wide, depending on the diameter of the pipe used. To prevent the pipe from being sucked into the ground, the bottom is deepened with a rectangular pit 250 mm deep to install an incompressible backfill.
It is almost always necessary to widen the ditch—to trim the walls; the soil from the dump is used to level the adjacent area. If the difference between the bank levels is up to 20-30 cm, leveling can only be done with excavated soil. If more - upper layer the embankment should consist of quartzite crushed stone of a fraction of 30-35 mm and be at least 1 cm thick. It is better to dump the removed black soil separately and save it until landscaping begins.
Construction of a channel for water flow
The protective zones on the sides of the passage need to be expanded by making half-meter cuts into the walls of the ditch. They must be dug up to the highest point of the bank along the very edge of the embankment, and if the ditch is more than 5 meters wide, with an additional 0.5 meter approach to flat areas.
The pit at the bottom is filled with road crushed stone of a fraction of up to 50 mm, and the cuts are also partially filled with it to give the inclined trenches a constant depth of at least 60 cm.
A flow channel is laid across the passage across its entire width, the lower edge of which is at the same level as the bottom of the ditch or below it. Typically the channel is made of a steel pipe with a cross-section from 300 to 500 mm, preferably lined. The outside of the pipe must be either primed and painted, or coated bitumen mastic. Ends steel pipes due to their small cross-section, they must be equipped with a removable welded grille with a cell size of no more than 150 mm to protect against clogging.
The wider the channel, the lower the probability of its silting, but with a lumen diameter of 600 mm or more, such a pipe can even be considered serviceable. Large cross-section channels are best made from reinforced concrete rings with a quarter lock. With the same success, you can lay concrete U-shaped boxes (inverted trays), which are used in the construction of heating mains.
Road drainage pipes, corrugated with stiffening ribs, or the most durable HDPE for main pipelines are also suitable. Remember that the width of the channel used determines the geometry of the ditch profile at the planning stage: the bottom of the “trapezoid” should be 30-40 cm wider than the pipe. Also note that even with a significant slope of the ditch, the flow pipe is laid strictly horizontally, and the difference in levels is compensated by the increased diameter.
How to make an embankment and how to protect it from erosion
The purpose of the “cuts” at the edges of the protective zones is to protect the embankment of the roadway from being squeezed out. Stone-lined sides are used as stops for the embankment, sand-lime brick or cast reinforced concrete with a slab thickness of 70-80 mm.
The formwork is constructed in such a way that the edge of the channel protrudes beyond it by 100 mm on each side. It is often easier to fill the bottom of the ditch with a sand and gravel mixture to level and hide the pipe, and then install the sides.
The board must protrude above highest point(shores) by 150-200 mm. The top of the sides is the starting point for the construction of the road surface and bedding pie; as a result, the surface should be 50-100 mm higher than the adjacent territory. After installing the sides, the trench inside must be filled with crushed stone to a level 250 mm below the upper edges.
Next, with an indentation of 80 cm inward from the sides, two curb stones up to 100 mm wide are cast (laid). To create a chamfer on the edge, you can put a glazing bead on the formwork, which makes it quite easy to level the mixture.
The border separates the flowerbed on the side of the road, so that the resulting space can immediately be filled to the top with black soil. It is optimal if the length of the curbs corresponds to the length of the sides, that is, two small trenches were previously dug along the entire length of the driveway. In this case, it is better to close the ends of the flower beds at an acute angle for more convenient entry with a turn.
We improve the arrival - materials and equipment
For the construction of the roadway, a rectangular recess was created with curbs on the sides and a total depth of 250 mm. Of these, 100 mm are filled with finer crushed stone, which is compacted well and spilled with water several times. At the same time, the lower layers of the embankment also sink, so quartzite must be added periodically until the shrinkage disappears. In the remaining 150 mm a layer of asphalt concrete or paving slabs on a 20 mm backfill of granite screenings.
The resulting driveway is completely protected from subsidence; accordingly, it can be paved with anything at all or simply left in bulk. It is much more important to properly design the flower beds and adjacent parts of the ditch. Flowers or lawn grass. Adjacent sections of the ditch of 2.5-3 meters each need to strengthen the slopes.
Moisture-loving plants should be planted on them, mainly shrubs with a dense branched root system: irises, willow or rose hips; you can also sow creeping herbs or create a hedge. Landscaping these places will not only protect the slopes from erosion, but will also visually smooth out the topography and get rid of unpleasant dampness.
Entry device country cottage area requires certain knowledge and use quality materials, since any errors can lead to negative consequences: pipe blockage, destruction or subsidence of the embankment. Let's look at how to make a bridge over a ditch in a country house with minimal time and money, and what materials will be needed for the work. The work is quite simple, but the technology has certain nuances that you should definitely know about.
When planning, you should not lose sight of the entrance to the dacha; this object should be designed separately
Basic requirements for the entry device
As noted above, when carrying out work it is important to comply with a number of conditions, otherwise the result may be such that the entire structure will have to be redone. The basic requirements for such structures are as follows:
| Even if only yours will travel through the entrance a car, we should not exclude the possibility that heavy freight transport will have to pass through it (for example, if construction materials are being transported or even imported country houses from block containers). Therefore, the tensile strength must be sufficient for the movement of any equipment | |
| Durability | It is important that the embankment is very strong in order to successfully withstand many unfavorable factors: heavy rainfall, temperature changes, erosion in spring and autumn, and so on. For this purpose, the slopes are strengthened different ways: laying turf, concreting, strengthening with geotextiles and so on |
| Sufficient bandwidth | The diameter of the pipe must be such as to ensure the unimpeded passage of water during the wettest period of the year, otherwise the ditch may overflow and flood your property or roadway. It is also important to ensure that the system does not become clogged; below we will look at how to avoid this unpleasant scenario. |
| Pipe strength | The product must withstand all loads without deformation or destruction. There are several basic options, and the choice of a specific solution depends largely on your preferences, because the price varies quite a lot |
In the photo: with a large ditch width, it may be necessary to lay even two pipes
What you should know about pipes and their installation
There are several main options that are used most often, each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, so you should make your choice carefully in order to avoid unnecessary problems during the work process (see also the article “Pipes for country water supply: selection, installation and heating methods").
Types of pipes
When choosing one solution or another, you need to know the following information:
- The most widely used concrete pipes are characterized by very high strength and durability; this option was used almost everywhere 20 years ago. This option has one significant drawback: the elements are heavy, so it is unlikely that you will be able to carry out the work yourself; the use of lifting equipment is required, and this is an additional cost.
- Hardware are also used quite widely. Thick-walled products are used, the service life of which is 40-50 years. This option can withstand even the most high loads without deformation and changes in linear parameters, it is important to select optimal diameter to provide the necessary throughput.
Advice! To increase the resistance of products to corrosion and extend their service life, it is best to pre-treat the surface with mastic; this will preserve the metal for a much longer period.
Metal processing protective compounds allows you to protect it from any adverse effects
- Homemade reinforced concrete structures, for their construction, large-diameter plastic pipes are used, around which a reinforcing frame is arranged, and concrete of a grade not lower than M200 is poured. At correct calculations throughput and high-quality reinforcing belt, such systems can serve for a long time.
- Corrugated plastic pipes appeared relatively recently, but have already gained enormous popularity due to a number of advantages: low weight with impressive bearing capacity, Very simple technology installation (you can purchase all the necessary fittings to simplify the process), low cost, resistance to aggressive influences and the lowest weight compared to other options.
It is the corrugated profile that is the secret of the high load-bearing capacity of each element
Features of the installation process
To ensure reliable crossing of a ditch at your dacha, work should be carried out in in a certain order, the instructions look like this:
- First, the walls of the ditch are leveled and the bottom is cleared of silt and other impurities.
- Next, a cushion of crushed stone or gravel is poured, or even better, a reinforced concrete footing about 15 cm thick is poured.
- To strengthen the walls and prevent washout, the base is covered with geotextile, after which a cushion of 30 cm of crushed stone is poured, a pipe is laid, and sprinkled around with the same crushed stone.
This is what the general layout looks like
Sometimes it may be necessary to cut elements; in this case, if there is no electricity on the site yet, renting a diesel generator for the dacha will help.
In order for your entrance to the dacha through the ditch to be as durable as possible, it is necessary to strengthen its slopes. Strengthening a ditch in a summer cottage can be done in any way convenient for you: laying turf, using geotextiles or through concreting.
Sometimes the most simple option may become concreting
Conclusion
The video in this article will tell you some important nuances in more detail, so we recommend watching it to finally understand the features of the work (read also the article “Water purification in the country: a review of available technologies”).
Add to favorites Printable version
9dach.ru
Entry and access to the site through a ditch: arrangement and construction with your own hands
When starting to develop their newly acquired plot, many happy owners are faced with the problem of difficult access to it. The reason for this is the sewage or drainage ditches that run along the road or even along the entire perimeter of the village. The most affordable thing that you can easily do with your own hands and that is the first thing that comes to mind for inexperienced summer residents is to drive a bulldozer or arm yourself with shovels, fill the ditch well, level it, compact it and pave it with asphalt.
Construction of the entrance to the site through a ditch
Many people do this. Great, no problems until there is a period of heavy rain or snow melting. The fact is that the sewage ditch is left for a reason, but with the purpose of directing ground or wastewater bypassing the site. Otherwise, flooding threatens the buildings, cellar, and basement of the house.
Making a correct entry into a site is more difficult than simply burying a ditch, but it is more reliable.
This work does not pose any great difficulties, the main thing is to take into account some nuances.
Stages of arrangement
The dissimilar location of the sites, the terrain, and the type of soil determine various device entrance to the territory through a ditch, but still some general features must be taken into account when doing this work with your own hands. What do you need to decide before you start?
Diagram with dimensions for installing an entrance to the site through a ditch
Which pipe is better
The water drainage device at the entrance to the site allows the use of pipes and structures from a wide variety of materials. The diameter does not matter; water will flow through any hole.
Construction process
To construct an entrance to the site, in addition to the pipe, it is necessary to prepare crushed stone, sand, and the remains of old iron structures.
Read alsoOriginal figures for a summer house and garden plot
couo.ru
How to make an entrance to a site through a ditch
- Arrangement of the entrance
- Check-in to the site: do it yourself
- Sleepers are a suitable drive-in design.
- Reinforced concrete comes to the rescue
- Let's summarize the topic
Entering the site through a ditch is not at all difficult to do with your own hands. When starting to build a house or cottage, you should first arrange the entrance to the site. It is necessary for construction equipment and the supply of materials, which is why it is done first. The question arises where the drainage ditch might come from. The answer is simple: it is specially arranged between the road and the territory of the site. The main role of the ditch is to collect groundwater, rain, and melt water, preventing it from penetrating the site. Such a ditch cannot simply be filled in, otherwise all the water will go to the site.
Construction of an entrance to the site through a drainage ditch.
Entering the site through a ditch with your own hands is necessary even if there is no personal transport. Arrival is required for the convenient delivery of large volumes of materials: furniture, building materials, etc. The work should be done efficiently in order to avoid frequent repair work due to the heavy load of the entrance. A hired team of specialists will be able to make the entrance efficiently. If the owner has the necessary skills for construction, he can start working on his own, saving money.
Arrangement of the entrance
Drainage pipe laying structure.
A good ride means an easy life, as experienced summer residents say. Let us emphasize once again that its arrangement must be dealt with first of all. For delivery building materials You need a smooth entrance.
And if there is also a ditch in front of the gate, then a bridge is needed that can withstand any load.
If the holiday village is located in a lowland, then a ditch is needed to drain water from the site.
In this case, you will need a special passage for the car.
The entrance should not only be durable, but also beautiful, because it is the first thing guests see.
Return to contents
If the area in front of the gate is flat, then it is covered with screenings or small gravel. The presence of a ditch complicates this process somewhat. It cannot be covered up and forgotten, because groundwater in the spring, not only your yard, but also the yards of your neighbors can flood.
You will have to resort to a method that does not require filling up the ditch. It is, at first glance, simple, but has its own characteristics.
The ditch can be concreted and a pipe laid for water flow. The drive is set up on top of a ditch. To do this, a pipe is laid in the ditch. This option although complex, it is used by many in their dachas. To ensure that the pipe does not move anywhere, the bottom of the ditch is filled with crushed stone, after which the pipe is laid. It is also covered with crushed stone, which is mixed with sand. This backfill is then compacted. The pipe can be fixed with concrete mortar, so the entry will become more reliable. As a finishing touch, you can lay slabs or decorative stones.
Laying scheme drainage pipes.
This option has its advantages:
- The functionality of the ditch is not impaired.
- Strength and durability of the structure.
- Versatility.
In order to make a check-in with your own hands, you need to have the following tools:
- shovel;
- buckets for sand or mortar;
- special construction block for compaction.
If you decide to pour concrete, then you need a manual vibrator to level the mixture.
But where there are advantages, there are also disadvantages. For example, the heavy weight of the pipe, which for this reason is inconvenient to install yourself. You will have to hire special equipment, which will require additional costs. And the pipe itself doesn’t cost a penny. It is better to find a pipe that has already been used, but this takes time.
Return to contents
The second check-in option is sleepers. This design is not very strong, but it can withstand the weight of a loaded car. This option is more suitable for a minibus or passenger car. Sleepers are fast and economical way make a check-in with your own hands. Wooden sleepers do not rot for a long time, as they undergo special treatment during manufacturing. The only thing that can confuse the owner is the pungent and unpleasant smell. But even here you can get out of it: new sleepers have a pungent smell, but you can also buy used ones, which have been well ventilated over the years of being on the street. And their cost will be much lower than new ones.
Schemes for determining the marks of the bottom of the drainage ditch on the sides of the site: a - according to 9-6; b - 6-4.
Let us note the advantages of such entry:
- Low price.
- Quick and easy installation. Such a bridge is simply laid over a ditch; no special equipment is needed.
- Durability and long service life.
There is one drawback. The sleepers simply lie on the ground, and in the spring (after the snow melts) they can move apart, since they are not secured by anything. If this option suits you, then you can begin arranging the driveway. True, every spring will begin with repairs and laying sleepers.
Return to contents
When entering the site through a ditch, you can fill concrete slab, which will serve for many years. You can do it yourself, which involves physical and financial costs, or you can install a ready-made one yourself.
The large weight of these products must be taken into account when laying, so it is impossible to do without special equipment. And an hour of operation of such equipment costs quite a lot.
There is one more important nuance: Not every terrain is suitable for installing a reinforced concrete slab entrance. If floods occur in the spring, the soil on which the slab rests will be washed away by water and the slabs will begin to shift.
As a result, cracks and fractures will appear, which will lead to the destruction of the slab. In this case, you will have to make repairs, although repairs are not the best solution; it will be much safer to replace the stove with a new one.
For this reason, such races are very rare, especially when compared with previous options. And the installation process is very labor-intensive. In addition, the slab can support less weight than the same concrete pipe laid in a ditch. And if the visit is made in order to transport materials for building a house, the slab may simply break under intense load. Purchasing a new stove is not a cheap pleasure. In other words, you should think carefully before getting to work, so as not to regret it later.
Return to contents
Arranging the entrance to the territory of a summer cottage or country house is a matter that does not tolerate hasty decisions. Here you should think carefully before getting to work and buying building materials. Experienced craftsmen advise using the first option of creating a race with your own hands, since the pipe is more reliable than reinforced concrete slabs.
The methods given above can be implemented independently. Of course, any job requires certain skills and abilities, so if you doubt your abilities, then hire better than specialists. The team will do all the work not only efficiently, but also quickly.
Owners of a site with a drainage ditch will have to think about constructing a durable driveway. The above several methods will help solve this problem. In addition, the drive can be made not only durable, but also visually attractive: by planting small trees or boxwood bushes, making flower beds and planting flowers, preferably perennials. Climbing roses supported by trellises will also look beautiful. However, beautification of the entry area is a separate issue.
How to enter a site through a ditch
Let's look at how to competently make a durable and practical entry to a summer cottage through a drainage ditch, sequentially, noting the main stages:
1) At the very beginning, a pillow is poured. As bulk material For the base of the drive, crushed stone is taken, the bottom of the ditch is first cleaned and prepared.
This pillow is poured to provide support. concrete pipes, which should not sink into the ground under their own weight and the weight of the laying materials located above. The pipe is taken to be a double-walled plastic corrugated pipe, with dimensions of 0.46/6 m and a concrete pipe of 0.5 m/2.5 m.
Plastic pipe today executed by modern technologies and is absolutely in no way inferior to concrete in terms of its strength characteristics, and the calculation is based on the load of construction passages technical machines.
2.) Install a pair along the edges retaining walls so that flowing water streams do not erode our bulk materials and destroy the artificial race. As bulk materials the protruding elements are sand and granite screenings.
Before installing them, you need to mount correct formwork, from a geometric point of view. We install a double mesh made of reinforcement, and then fill it all in concrete mortar.
You can take solutions of the following brands:
3.) From 3 to 7 days, the concrete solution will remain in the formwork and harden. After this time, it becomes strong and durable, taking on the desired shape to serve for many years.
The air temperature when pouring concrete should be at least +5 degrees. It is recommended to carry out filling work in summer, autumn or spring. In some cases, concrete is poured at -5 degrees, but only with the use of special winter mixtures.
4.) We fill the distance between the retaining walls with crushed stone, of course, after dismantling the formwork. Crushed stone is poured to the level of the top pipe, and geotextiles are laid on top. He creeps to bulk sand or the screenings were not washed away by rain and melted snow waters.
A month later, after completion of all stages of work, the materials used shrink a little. And you can put into operation and safely use the entrance through the drainage ditch to your site after 3 days from completion of installation.
What is the cost of construction work on a driveway through a drainage ditch?
Taking into account the calculations of employees of companies providing services for the construction of entrances to the site through a ditch, the average cost of their work will be about 30,000 rubles. This is the average price of individual construction of a race.
