Wet facade. Technology. What is needed to install a “wet façade”? Wet façade primer system

One of the most affordable and optimal methods for finishing facades in terms of thermal insulation is the so-called wet facade. This method gives a lot of scope for decorating a house, since the materials for the finishing coating have a rich color palette, new paint compositions are appearing that make it possible to create an interesting texture: mosaic, with imitation of stone or brickwork, or a “bark beetle” structure. Wet facade- This is a technology that is constantly being improved. It has become possible to purchase heat-insulating boards made of extruded polystyrene, on which a finishing layer has been applied in advance. This article explains what a wet façade is and when this technology is used.

The “wet façade” technology is also indispensable for improving appearance and insulation of old buildings. Many facades of old holiday villages near Moscow are finished using this technology. Installation of the wet façade system does not create excessive load on the building’s load-bearing structures; this technology allows saving money needed to strengthen the foundation.

A wet façade involves installing thermal insulation on the outside of the house, therefore effective area housing does not decrease. And the comfort of housing increases - in the cold season the walls are not blown through or frozen, the temperature inside the room is distributed evenly. In hot months, the façade system avoids excessive heating of the building structures; the microclimate inside the house remains comfortable in both hot and rainy weather. An important characteristic of the system is that it improves the sound insulation of the house.

Thus, we can say that the use of such facade technology as a wet facade allows you to create an individual look for a house, significantly increase its service life and create comfortable conditions for the owners of the house.

Pie system

The “pie” of a wet facade consists of several layers that have a specific function. To create a thermal insulation layer, facade grade polystyrene foam is used, the density of the material is 16-17 kg/m3, an alternative is a mineral wool board with a density of 120-170 kg/m3. To determine the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, an accurate thermal calculation must be made.

For alignment load-bearing wall and reliable fixation of thermal insulation boards is created reinforced layer. It serves as the basis for the outer layers and consists of adhesive composition and reinforcing fiberglass mesh, resistant to alkalis.

To protect the entire “pie” and create decorative effects serves finishing layer, to create it, various types of plaster compositions are used - silicate, silicone, mineral. At the final stage of installation of the “wet” facade, mineral plaster is painted with special paints. The use of mass-painted Seloxane plasters is often recommended. There is a version of the origin of the term “wet” facade, related to the fact that the plaster mixture for the finishing layer in production is produced in the form of a powder, which is diluted with water before application.

Before the beginning construction work It is necessary to make an accurate calculation, and also check whether the elements of the system are compatible in terms of such indicators as thermal expansion, frost resistance, water resistance, and vapor permeability.

Mineral wool insulation has high vapor permeability, and if the finishing plaster does not allow water vapor to pass through well, the lingering moisture will soon destroy the decorative coating.

Sequence of installation operations and possible errors

The first stage installation work is thorough surface preparation. The wall should be cleaned of dust and dirt, remove reinforcement protruding from the wall, excess mortar in the brickwork, and any other protruding metal elements. May be required renovation work if there are cracks in the wall. The prepared wall is treated with a primer, this ensures reliable adhesion of the insulation to the wall surface. Careless wall preparation can lead, at best, to the appearance of rust stains, and at worst, to the complete collapse of the thermal insulation system.

Then you need to mount the base profile and window drain crutches; the base strips are installed strictly horizontally and serve as the basis for laying the first row of insulation. Proper installation of “kerchiefs” is required at the corners of door and window openings; plugs are needed at the ends of the window sill ebbs; violation of the technology at this stage may result in water entering the system and destruction of the facade system at the junction of the window ebbs.

How to glue insulation in a wet facade system

The next step is gluing the insulation boards to the wall. The glue is diluted in strict accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and applied to the insulation board. The glue is applied along the entire perimeter and additionally in at least six places over the area of ​​the slab. It is best to distribute the glue evenly if you use a comb spatula. The resulting grooves play a role expansion joints. The area covered with glue must be at least 40% of the entire area of ​​the insulation board.

The first row of insulation should be installed with a mandatory level check. Subsequent rows are glued using a knitting method, similar to brickwork; you need to ensure that the gaps between the plates are not 2-3mm. If these conditions are not met, cracks and tears will inevitably appear on the façade. When using a comb trowel, the resulting grooves play the role of expansion joints. The area covered with glue must be at least 40% of the entire area of ​​the insulation board.

After gluing the insulation, a short period of time is required for the glue to acquire the necessary strength. This period is indicated by the manufacturer and must be strictly observed. Then the insulation is secured using façade dowels. The closest attention must be paid to the quality of this type of hardware, since they bear the entire wind load.

The type of dowels is selected depending on the wall material and insulation, since there is a very wide range of hardware products on sale, it is necessary to consult a specialist in each specific case. The main types of dowels are driven ones with a spacer element in the form of a polypropylene nail, a nail made of glass-filled polyamide, a nail made of galvanized steel (fire-resistant version); screw ones, in which the role of a spacer element is played by a screw. To make the fastening more reliable, a booster cuff (randole) is used. There are dowels equipped with a thermal head; they are used to completely eliminate heat loss.

When calculating the number of dowels, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the system, the wind load, as well as in which area of ​​the façade the slab to be attached is located. On average, for a small building, which is country house, 5 – 6 dowels per 1 sq.m. are enough. m.

One of the main mistakes at this stage is excessive penetration of the driven dowels into the insulation board. In this case, the seating area of ​​the dowel is deformed, and the adhesion force to the base decreases relative to the calculated level. If the disc-shaped dowel protrudes above the plane of the slab, bumps appear on the facade, spoiling the appearance.

How to secure reinforcing mesh

About a day after the installation of polystyrene foam boards is completed, a reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of them. It is not difficult to apply a plaster layer in which the mesh is embedded, but without experience, you can make mistakes.

First of all, the fiberglass mesh must be cut in advance, so that at the joints the mesh can be laid with an overlap of at least 10 mm. Lack of overlap is fraught with the formation of cracks. In order to cover possible defects that arose during the installation of insulation, you need to apply a “rough” layer of plaster into which the fiberglass mesh is embedded. The mesh threads should not be visible above the surface of the plaster; creases and wrinkles should not be allowed to form when laying the mesh. Then, after installing the mesh, a finishing layer of plaster is applied.

The mesh is made of fiberglass and impregnated with polymer compounds. The main requirement for the mesh is high resistance to alkalis; low-quality mesh can simply dissolve. High-quality fiberglass mesh is elastic, resistant to stretching and tearing, and the weaving points are securely fixed. The use of high-quality mesh is especially important in the Russian climate, as it reduces internal stresses, thereby preventing the process of facade cracking during sudden temperature changes.

When starting to create a protective and decorative layer of a wet facade, you need to choose decorative plaster, paying attention to its texture and vapor permeability indicators. Selection of decorative plasters and finishing paints at modern market The number of finishing materials is very large and the working methods for creating any decorative effects are also quite varied. At this stage, the owner of the house can fully express his imagination and use those materials and textures that will help give the house a unique look.

On our FORUMHOUSE website you will find sections that tell you in more detail how to install it correctly, what rules exist and where it should be located

Finishing and insulating facades is a mandatory process that guarantees a warm and attractive home. For this purpose they are used different methods, but the most relevant and interesting choice is considered to be the one in which a wet facade is created, the installation technology of which will be discussed in detail. When forming it, special mortars and thermal insulation materials are used. If you understand well how such a facade is created, then the process can be easily done with your own hands.

What is a wet facade system

The most popular materials used for the construction of various structures are brick, concrete or wall blocks. They produce buildings that have good strength, but do not have excellent thermal insulation parameters, so insulation is an indispensable process. For this great solution There will be a wet facade technology.

With the help of the work performed, not only high-quality insulation is ensured, but also the decorative design of private houses. All work is carried out exclusively using specialized building solutions. At the end of the process, the walls are plastered, which guarantees their attractive appearance.

A distinctive feature of the design is its multi-layer nature, with each layer performing a critical function.

The wet facade consists of the following layers:

Construction layer	Functions it performs
Adhesive	Provides reliable fastening of the entire structure
Insulating	Guarantees high-quality insulation of building walls
Reinforcing	Responsible for the high strength and reliability of the wet facade, and also creates the basis for easy and quick creation of the next layer
Decorative	Appears in the form plaster coating, protecting thermal insulation materials from external influences and providing a beautiful view of the building

When using this technology, the usable area of ​​the premises is not reduced, since all work is carried out outside.

Advantages and disadvantages

The design has positive and negative parameters, which are carefully studied before direct work. The advantages include:

• reasonable cost;
• light weight, allowing you to create a structure for houses built on light foundations;
• the usable area of ​​residential premises does not decrease;
• thanks to the creation of a wet facade, the installation technology of which is clear and simple, not only the thermal insulation parameters of the building are increased, but also the sound insulation is improved;
• its service life exceeds 35 years;
• the appearance of buildings is improved;
• Simple repair work can be easily carried out if necessary.

However, a wet facade has not only advantages, but also the following disadvantages:

• work can only be carried out when installed outdoors optimal conditions, since it is almost impossible to achieve the desired result at temperatures below 5 degrees, but the solution to this problem will be the use of suitable thermal equipment;
• it is important that all layers dry evenly and gradually, so precipitation or sudden changes in humidity can lead to poor-quality insulation;
• so that during the process of hardening the structure does not get dirt on it, constant protection from the wind is provided, which entails additional waste of time and effort.

This technology ensures the formation of high-quality thermal insulation with minimal investment. Photos of the design are presented in large quantities on the Internet, so you can be convinced of its attractiveness. All shortcomings are easily removable, so this insulation option is chosen very often.

Wet insulation options

Choosing insulation for the structure

The main purpose of a wet facade is to insulate buildings, so much attention is paid to choosing high-quality insulation. It must meet the following criteria:

• small weight;
• environmental friendliness, since the work is performed for a residential building;
• low water absorption rate;
• good resistance to mechanical stress;
• even with a sharp change in temperature, the material should not change its structure;
• installation must be simple and cost low.

Only some thermal insulation materials meet these requirements. These include:

• polystyrene foam - has a specific structure, which contains a huge number of closed air bubbles. It has low cost and is also easy to install. It has a small mass, so it does not affect the foundation and other parts of the structure. Resistant to mold or mildew growth. Its disadvantages include poor breathability. It is also not durable, so even minor mechanical impacts easily lead to its destruction. It is not advisable to use it for wooden buildings;
• expanded polystyrene - is modern variety polystyrene foam In the process of creating a wet facade, preference is often given to polystyrene foam. Its structure also contains numerous closed air bubbles, so it has good thermal insulation parameters and does not allow moisture to pass through. It is resistant to fire and has a low mass. The material is considered unsuitable for wooden houses, since it impairs their breathability;
• mineral wool- created using special fibers obtained by melting all kinds of rocks. The material is popular because it contains only natural and environmentally friendly components. Cotton wool is lightweight and affordable. The disadvantages include the lack of resistance to moisture, due to which mineral wool loses its thermal insulation parameters.

Mineral wool is most often chosen for wet facades. It is available in slabs that are easy to attach. To insulate a building using this material you will not need to spend a lot Money.

Styrofoam
Expanded polystyrene
Mineral wool

Wet façade installation technology

Making the design is quite simple if you carefully understand the operating technology. The wet façade is formed in several large stages.

Tools and materials for work

Initially, materials and tools used in the work process are purchased. They all have to be different high quality and reasonable price. These include:

• base profile - it should be equal in width to the thickness of the slab of the selected insulation. Its quantity is calculated depending on the size of the building itself. For connection individual elements appropriate profiles are used connecting elements. Its fixation is carried out with different dowel nails, the length of which depends on what material the walls of the building are made of;
• primer - necessary for proper preparation of the walls of the building before creating a wet facade. A primer is also purchased, which is applied to the plaster layer, which ensures its preparation before subsequent decoration;
• mushroom-shaped dowels - used for reliable and final fastening of insulation;
• glue - used in the process of creating a thermal insulation layer, and it must be specifically designed for the selected insulation;
• insulation boards - their required thickness is calculated in advance, since the effectiveness of thermal insulation depends on it. Most often, mineral wool is chosen for a wet facade;
• plaster composition - it provides a protective and reinforced outer layer applied to the thermal insulation;
• reinforcing mesh - the most commonly chosen structure is fiberglass, which is sold in rolls. It is easy to use, and also ensures a durable plaster layer that is resistant to various influences;
• decorative plaster- it guarantees a beautiful and bright appearance of the building facade;
• facade paint - it can be used to paint the walls of a building in any chosen color.

There are special complex systems on the market that include everything necessary materials and tools used in the process of creating a wet façade. Purchasing such a kit is considered beneficial, but quite often some components are unsuitable for home owners.

Tools for wet façade

Preparing the façade before work

It will be possible to achieve a high result of work only if there is a minimum distance between the wall and the heat-insulating layer. Therefore attention is paid quality training facade.

Initially, the surfaces are checked for the presence of any unevenness and other defects, which are certainly eliminated with suitable mortars. Since glue is used in the process, it is important to clean the walls from dirt or dust.

Cleaning the surface of façade walls

Old coatings must be removed, and for this purpose they can use mechanical methods or thermal, involving heating the base construction hairdryer or other equipment. The presence of moss or mold on the walls is not allowed, so if they are found, they must be cleaned off, after which the base is treated with an antiseptic. The areas near each window of the building are especially checked, since this is where the main defects of the walls may be. Also, all elements of the drainage system or other objects that will interfere with the work process are removed from the base. Next, a primer is applied to the base using a roller and brushes. It is important to avoid omissions, as this will negatively affect the fastening of the insulation.

Primer of walls

Base profile device

To attach it, a zero line is initially drawn on the walls, which is marked exclusively using a laser. It is important that it is perfectly level, since it determines how high-quality, even and reliable the wet façade will be. The line that you will have to focus on when creating a thermal insulation layer should be 30 cm lower than the floor level in the building. This will ensure that there are no cold bridges in the structure.

Base profile

The base profile is required to perform the following functions:

• smooth fastening of the heat-insulating material is guaranteed;
• protection of the mineral wool from below from moisture and dirt is ensured.

If there are slight unevenness on the surfaces, then in the process of fixing the profile, special plastic linings are used to compensate for the curvature of the base, and also allow the structure to be pressed tightly. The fastening is done end-to-end, with a small gap not exceeding 3 mm left between the individual sections. Special connecting elements are used in the corners.

Stages of installation of the base profile

Installation of the thermal insulation layer

For wet facade excellent choice considered mineral wool. It comes in the form of slabs that are easy to fix. The whole process is divided into stages:

• To attach the insulation, glue is used, which is diluted with the right amount water in accordance with the instructions supplied by the manufacturer. The solution is stirred with a construction mixer to obtain a homogeneous mixture of optimal consistency;
• the composition is applied to the insulation boards in two approaches, since initially a small amount of it is rubbed into the elements, and then an even and fairly thick layer is created;
• a plate coated with glue is applied to the desired area walls, after which it is pressed quite firmly and tightly. It is recommended to move it a little to distribute the glue evenly. When working near a window where the slope is located, it is important to ensure careful fixation. If excess appears, it will be immediately removed with a spatula;
• When using the next element, it is important to ensure that all the plates are pressed against each other very tightly. Significant gaps are not allowed;
• The material is fastened in successive rows, and work begins from a pre-selected angle. In this case, the seams are certainly shifted to prevent the formation of cold bridges.

The first row is laid in strict accordance with the pre-fixed starting profile. Mineral wool is cut special knife, and during work it is important to constantly use measuring equipment, to prevent possible deviations and distortions.

The prepared adhesive solution is applied to the insulation boards
The first row of insulation is carefully attached with glue to the base profile
Additional fastening of insulation using dowels

Applying a plaster layer with reinforcement

A wet facade is created without fail with the formation of a special reinforced layer of plaster. The mixture is usually sold dry, so it must be diluted with water before use.

Work begins with each window in the building, since these areas are considered the most difficult. As a rule, special corners for slopes are used here. After forming the optimal thickness of the plaster layer, a reinforcing mesh is used, which is embedded in the solution. It should not touch the mineral wool, but should be in the plaster mixture. A special corner equipped with mesh strips is used in the corners.

Reinforcing mesh

The mesh is laid overlapping to obtain a strong reinforcing layer. If necessary, trim excess material.

After the solution has set, another layer of plaster is applied. The second layer is rubbed down, after which you can cover it with a primer, and then paint the resulting structure with high-quality facade plaster or paint.

The reinforcing mesh is attached with an overlap
The mesh is pressed into the plaster layer

Common mistakes when creating a wet facade

The work is not difficult to complete, but often the quality of the result is poor. This is due to the following errors:

• the base was not prepared or a poor-quality primer was used;
• the reinforcing mesh was laid end-to-end, not overlapping;
• the thermal insulation layer does not adhere tightly to the walls of the house;
• plaster with a high vapor permeability was used;
• ebb tides installed incorrectly.

What are the dangers of improper installation of a wet facade?

To avoid these mistakes, it is important to use high-quality materials and strictly follow the instructions. Thus, wet facades, the installation technology of which is described above, are considered an excellent solution for any building. The design has many advantages, does not require investing a lot of money and is easy to create with your own hands. High-quality insulation of the house is ensured, and its appearance is also improved.

Video

We suggest watching a video that will help you understand how to properly make such a facade.

Insulation of premises using the “wet facade” method is widely popular in the construction of private and multi-storey buildings. The prevalence of the method is due to significant advantages compared to alternative ways finishing. The “wet facade” system minimizes the number of cold bridges and prevents the appearance of condensation on the internal walls of the house.

Features of the “wet facade” finishing

“Wet” technology for facade insulation involves the use of aqueous solutions of plaster, paints and primers. A multi-layer reinforced cake is created on the surface of the wall. For comparison, when installing a “dry facade”, waterless fastening methods are used: clapboard upholstery, panels with frame fastening and siding.

The system of insulating houses and buildings using the wet method appeared in the 50s of the twentieth century in Germany and became widespread in the 70s.

This technique involves applying a primer base, glue, thermal insulation and other materials in a certain sequence. As a result, a unified system is formed, characterized by a number of undeniable advantages:

1. Provides attractiveness and decorativeness to the facade. There are no salt stains on the external walls.
2. The light weight of the structure does not require a powerful foundation.
3. External thermal insulation allows you to retain and effectively accumulate heat in the room, blocking “cold bridges”.
4. On inner surface no condensation forms on the walls. The “dew point” is carried into the insulation material, and then evaporates through the outer “breathing” layer of plaster.
5. The “wet” type facade gives the walls sound and vibration insulation.
6. The structure of the house is reliably protected from moisture. This eliminates corrosion of frame reinforcement and freezing in microcracks in concrete.
7. “Wet” technologies are cheaper to implement.

The disadvantages of such systems include the need to comply with special conditions during installation:

• installation of a “wet” facade occurs at a temperature of at least +5 C°;
• installation work is not carried out in rainy and humid weather;
• exposure to direct sunlight will cause the solution to dry out - this will negatively affect the quality of insulation.

Installation of a wet facade

The wet facade is easy to manufacture. The simple design is based on the simultaneous use of mechanical and adhesive fasteners.

Wet facade: installation technology

The façade “pie” includes the following layers:

Base.

1. Thermal insulation. The insulation is attached to the wall with glue - usually a polymer-cement composition with high adhesion to the insulation and the load-bearing surface. Foam plastic or mineral wool slabs are used as thermal insulation material.
2. The reinforcing mesh strengthens the structure. Without metal mesh not a single plaster solution or other adhesive composition will stick to the basalt slab or foam plastic. A reinforcing mesh 1 meter wide is suitable for the job - this is quite enough to create a solid plaster coating.
3. Layers of glue for reinforcing mesh and insulation.
4. The mechanical fastening of the insulation is an “umbrella” (the plastic dowel is equipped with a wide cap). Five dowels are installed per insulation board.
5. Decorative coating. For finishing wet facades it is used textured plaster, which has significant advantages: ease of application, light weight and affordability.

A house insulated with a “wet facade” system: video

Selection of materials for arranging a wet façade system

Materials for wet facades are sold as a “system”. Essentially, this is a complex of materials with similar physical characteristics: water absorption, vapor permeability, thermal expansion and frost resistance.

Comparative characteristics of the properties of foam plastic and mineral wool

The composition of the glue is selected in accordance with the insulation used. For example, bitumen-based adhesive is used when installing polystyrene boards

When to install a “wet facade”

The arrangement of the “wet” facade is carried out after the following construction work has been completed:

• roof installation;
• external waterproofing of the foundation is completely completed;
• shrinkage of the building occurred;
• ventilation and air conditioning systems have been installed, windows and other systems have been installed;
• the building has been dried out.

Facade work is best done in late spring - early autumn. Before starting installation, you need to look at the weather forecast - there should be no rain for the next two to three weeks and subzero temperature

Methods for installing insulation

There are three technologies for arranging the fixation of thermal insulation material:

1. Rigid fastening - the insulation is fixed with dowels. With this method, the thickness of the plaster layers does not exceed 8 mm.
2. Fastening the insulation to movable hinges. The plaster mixture moves freely along the walls, compensating for shrinkage. The thickness of the applied layers is about 30 mm.
3. Thermal insulation is fixed with glue and dowels. In this case, disc-shaped dowels with large caps are used.

Installation of a wet facade: installation technology

Preparatory activities

Before you begin facade work, you need to prepare some materials and components:

1. Insulation - polystyrene foam or mineral fiber boards. For 1 sq.m. you need to take 1.05 sq.m. insulation (gap for trimming in corners). The thickness of the thermal insulation material depends on the climatic zone of residence.
2. Fiberglass mesh with a density of 140-160 g/cub.m.
3. Umbrella dowels at the rate of 5-8 pieces per 1 sq.m.
4. Corner and base profile. Corner elements protect the wall from crumbling under mechanical stress. The plinth elements are mounted horizontally at the bottom of the façade and form the basis for the installation of the first row of slabs. The base profile protects the heat-insulating material from mechanical damage and acts as a drip lining.
5. Primer for treating the base of the wall.
6. Adhesive for fixing insulation and reinforcing mesh. The amount of adhesive depends on the texture of the wall.
7. Plaster for finishing. Material consumption is calculated based on the area of ​​the surface to be coated. It is necessary to provide a reserve of 10% for window/door openings.

Preparatory activities:

1. Thoroughly clean the wall surface from the remains of old coating and dirt.
2. If necessary, level the wall, remove damage, and repair cracks.
3. Clear from old plaster door/window slopes.
4. Prime the walls to increase adhesion.

Installation of the base profile

A mandatory operation is the installation of a support bar. The lower edge of the entire wet façade system rests on a U-shaped profile - the “support base”. Work on insulation with a wet facade begins with marking/fastening the basement profile around the perimeter of the building.

The profile is mounted as follows:

• the mounting height of the plinth is 40 cm from ground level;
• there should be a gap of about 30 mm between the horizontal slats - this distance is necessary for thermal expansion;
• the profile is fixed with self-tapping screws and dowels, the fastening step is 10-20 cm;
• The corners of the building must be finished with a special corner profile.

Fastening thermal insulation boards

The wet facade of foam plastic or mineral wool is glued to the prepared surface outer wall Houses. The glue is applied in a wide strip around the perimeter of the insulating board. This method reduces glue consumption and ensures sufficient fastening strength.

There is an unspoken rule: the glue must cover at least 40% of the insulation area

High-quality installation of thermal insulation is ensured by following a number of rules:

• Continuous vertical seams between several rows are not allowed - the seams of slabs in adjacent rows must overlap;
• When gluing, the back side of the slab is pressed against the base of the wall, and the end of the insulation is pressed against the adjacent slab; seams between thermal insulation boards should be minimal;
• Any glue protruding between the seams must be removed immediately.

After drying (about 3 days), the thermal insulation layer must be further strengthened with dowels. The fasteners go 5-9 cm deep into the wall, depending on the porosity of the insulation.

Sequence of fastening dowels:

1. Mark the panel and drill holes to the required depth.
2. Make sockets for the dowels and install the disc parts flush.
3. Carefully hammer in the plastic nails.

Installation of the reinforcing layer

The installation of the reinforcing layer begins 3 days after attaching the insulation. The first step is to install reinforcing mesh on the slopes of doors/windows, vertical joints of slopes and lintels, as well as the outer corners of the building. The smooth surface of the walls is processed last.

The procedure for installing the reinforcing layer:

1. Apply glue to the insulation.
2. Apply a fiberglass mesh.
3. Reapply a layer of glue - it should cover the structure completely.

Important! The total thickness of the reinforcing layer should be no more than 6 mm. The distance between the outer surface and the fiberglass layer is up to 1-2 mm

Finishing of the facade

The final phase of arranging a wet facade is plastering the walls. This work can be started no earlier than 3-7 days after installation of the reinforced mesh. Finishing the façade must be vapor-permeable and moisture-resistant. External plaster must withstand temperature fluctuations and not deform under mechanical loads.

The plaster can be applied at a temperature of 5-30 C°, required condition- lack of wind. When working in sunny and hot weather, the layer of finishing plaster must be periodically moistened with water.

Plastering a wet facade: photo

Installation of a “wet facade” in the basement

When installing a wet facade on a plinth, there are some features:

• before installing the wet façade system, care must be taken to waterproof the blind area and plinth;
• as a heat insulator it is better to use a material with minimal moisture absorption;
• slag, dolomite, lime and basalt wool are not used to insulate the basement;
• heat-insulating boards are strengthened with dowels at a distance of 30 cm from the ground level;
• the reinforcing mesh is laid in two layers;
• Ceramic and facade slabs are suitable for cladding;
• Plastering the plinth can be done with mosaic plaster.

Ceresite wet facade: installation technology

You can insulate the walls of your home both from the inside and outside. But a prudent owner will always give preference to systems with external insulation. Code of Practice SP 23-101-2004 “Thermal Protection Design” states: “It is not recommended to use thermal insulation on the inside.” In addition, at least three more arguments can be cited in favor of such a decision:

The “wet facade” method involves the following stages of work:

1. Preparatory process.
2. Insulation of walls with mineral wool or expanded polystyrene from the outside of the building.
3. Applying a layer of adhesive mixture to the surface of the insulation, followed by laying a reinforcing, alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh on it.
4. Plastering the surface.
5. Finishing layer finishing material.

Externally, the “wet facade” in the photo looks like this:

Insulation of the facade using the “wet facade” technology

You will learn about the technology for installing this insulation method a little later, but in this section I would like to note its advantages and disadvantages.

The effective “wet facade” method has established itself as one of the cheapest, included in the “TOP-3 Inexpensive facades”, you can read about this in the article, therefore it is used everywhere. But in order for the listed advantages to only please you, you must follow the technology, choose high-quality material and observe the necessary conditions when performing work.

Types of facades and their scope of application

“Wet facade” is a plaster finish that is used for insulation of administrative buildings, residential buildings, offices, retail and industrial buildings. This type of facade is suitable for both low-rise and high-rise construction.

The external walls of a building can be insulated in two ways. One of them is called "dry facade" and the other - "wet façade" When installing the first type of cladding, there is no need to use various solutions and compositions with liquid consistencies. This type of facade finishing includes all types of ventilated facades, which you can learn about in the article “”. Due to the available space, the insulation is ventilated, the material is not moistened.

As for the second method, “wet facade”, or wet plaster of the facade, has nothing to do with moisturizing. The name implies that the heat insulator will be mounted on the wall, and then the surface will be plastered with special solutions.

In the process of work, plaster and adhesive compositions are used, which are diluted with water, which is why the method is called “wet facade”.

Classification of facade systems with external thin plaster layers according to GOST R 53786-2010 “Heat-insulating composite façade systems with external plaster layers. Terms and Definitions", presented in the table:

Wet façade technology

All technological phases are carried out at a temperature of no less than +5°C and no higher than +25°C according to SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings». The quality of the work performed and the service life depend on the accuracy of the conditions met.

By violating the temperature regime and using materials not intended for the “wet facade” system, you risk getting a cracked coating or crumbling plaster.

Don’t forget about your safety, because the work will be carried out at heights. Most likely you will use scaffolding, according to SNiP 12-03-2001 “Safety in construction” Part 1 their installation is carried out in tiers, and the height of each tier must be at least 2 m. The step, depending on the height, can be a multiple of 0.5; 1 and 2 m. From the outer plane, the walls of the forest are set at a distance of 300–400 mm.

Preparatory work

It is necessary to begin work by inspecting the surface and visually determining its strength and bearing capacity. If there are sagging mortar on the wall, remove the excess with a hammer or other available tool, and seal the cracks with mortar.

According to standards SNiPa 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings” the base must be strong, rough, clean and open-pore. Differences of more than 10 mm must be eliminated.

Let's say there is a small section of 200 x 200 mm on the wall, concave a couple of centimeters, and if you cover it with insulation, then a void will form in this place. An accidental blow to the finished facade in this place will break the insulation. Laying the slab on protruding areas is also fraught with internal defects in the material.

If, while running your palm over the surface, you see a “chalk mark” on your hand or something like fine sand is falling from the wall, clean the wall more thoroughly. Sometimes you have to completely plaster the base.

We will clean the treated surface from dirt and prime it with a special compound called “Primer”; this intermediate layer will improve the physical and technical characteristics of the base. We do this using a roller or a wide paint brush.

Foam primer should only be used on foam boards and not on mineral wool boards.

If the surface absorbs the composition strongly, then apply the primer 2 times. This operation will increase the adhesion of the base and reduce the withdrawal of water from the adhesive mixture.

Installation of insulation

Using the “wet plaster” method, you need to understand that most of the load will fall on the insulation layer. We offer a drawing that clearly shows the design of this technology using decorative plaster as a finishing layer.

"wet facade"

Therefore, the selection and installation of insulating material to the wall surface is a crucial moment when installing a “wet facade”.

The choice of material used in the work depends on the following indicators:

The technology for constructing a “wet facade” allows the use of a synthetic polymer group of insulation materials, mineral thermal insulation materials and their combination. Materials must comply GOST: 10140-2003. “Thermal insulation slabs made of mineral wool with a bitumen binder. Specifications", 16136-2003 "Perlite-bitumen thermal insulation slabs. Technical specifications", 22950-95 "Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity with a synthetic binder. Technical conditions".

The thickness of the heat insulator is selected depending on the existing heating engineering standards for buildings and structures, which are prescribed in SNiPe 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”. It says here that for insulating facades for residential premises, polystyrene foam should be used with a thickness of 10–250 mm or mineral wool board 25–180 mm.

Taking to work extruded polystyrene foam, which smooth surface, you should make it rough. To do this, you can buy a factory-made plane for aerated concrete, as in the photo, or make a homemade plane from a metal profile pierced with nails.

For work, purchase the tools necessary to complete the construction process:

• building level;
• hammer;
• hammer drill with attachments for dowels (most often D8);
• electric drill;
• profile cutter;
• spatula: 80–100 mm and 350 mm;
• container for diluting the adhesive composition;
• construction mixer;
• toothed trowel, tooth size 8–10 mm, made of stainless steel;
• smooth edge iron;
• grater with sandpaper or mesh;
• long wooden grater;
• wide brush, roller for priming the surface;
• construction knife for cutting mesh;
• polyurethane grater 300–400 mm to form the structure.

The approximate consumption of materials is indicated in the table:

Fastening the insulation begins from the base of the building to its roof, within one vertical grip, and is carried out in the following chronology:

1. Fastening the base profile The bottom of the insulating layer is protected from mechanical damage using a base profile, which is installed 400–600 mm above the base using a level. It also holds the bottom (first) row of the insulator, and a profiled drip drains away raindrops. The dimensions of the plinth profiles are suitable for various thicknesses thermal insulation material, they correspond GOST 22233-2001 “Profiles pressed from aluminum alloys for translucent enclosing structures. Technical specifications" and the slab must fit into them exactly - without gaps. We drill holes in the wall for dowels, at least 3 pieces per 1 m of profile. We lean the profile against the wall, insert plastic dowels into the holes and use a hammer to drive it into the wall. Sometimes polyethylene washers are used for lining between the profile and the wall.
   

   The location of the base profile in its installed form should be along one line; there should be no overlaps or deformation of the part at the joints.

   When the profile continues along the adjacent base, we cut it at an angle of 45°. In houses with basements and technical undergrounds, polystyrene foam slabs must overlap the end of the slab by no less than 200 mm from the bottom level of the first floor and basement.

   

2. Coating the insulation surface with an adhesive solution You can find out which polystyrene foam is best for your job in the article "", and for its installation we use a cement-based adhesive solution, but only for external work. The adhesive solution is prepared manually using a construction electric mixer. How to do this is written on the packaging. Fill the container with water in the amount of 5–5.5 liters per 25 kg of mixture and slowly pour the dry solution from the bag, thoroughly stirring the contents at low speed. The result should be a homogeneous mass, leave it for 10 minutes, and then stir again. The adhesive composition must be mixed until a homogeneous mass without lumps and remember that it retains its properties only for 4 hours.

   We apply the adhesive mass to the slabs in strips 30–40 mm wide at a distance of about 30 mm from the edge, so during installation it will not be squeezed out beyond the edges of the material. In the central part of the slab we apply about 6–8 slides, 30–40 mm thick. We select the amount of solution so that most of the insulation surface has contact with the base through it. The glue strip along the contour should have gaps; we do them using a spatula, this way the formation of air pockets is eliminated.

   

3. Gluing the insulation to the base After applying the glue, we immediately apply the slab to the wall, the long side of which lies horizontally, fixing it with fist blows through a long wooden trowel, or with a mallet. At the same time, we control the vertical and horizontal position of the slab with a level. The glue squeezed out beyond the insulation contour is immediately removed.
   

   Do not press the heat insulator again or move it even after a few minutes. If it is not glued correctly, carefully tear it off, remove the mortar, and only then re-apply the mixture to the slab and press it to the surface.

   We lay the slabs in a horizontal pattern, from bottom to top, maintaining a checkerboard arrangement of the order of the seams, and “overlapping” at the corners. At the corners we use “gear” gearing.

   First, a slab with a corresponding protrusion is laid on one wall, and then another is applied to it. The strip that remains is cut off.

   Vertical and horizontal seams should not be more than 2 mm. If it turns out that they are much larger, you cannot completely fill them with solution. You need to insert a narrow strip of insulation into the gap and press it into the seam, no longer using the adhesive. When the gap is small and it is impossible to insert heat-insulating material into it, experts recommend widening it and inserting the insulation with force, but not using an adhesive solution, but using polyurethane foam.

   To apply glue to the insulation, it is better to use a notched trowel; this method guarantees the cleanliness of the joint and ensures uniform adhesion of the insulation to the glued surface with the ability to level the sheet along the plane.

   When insulating slopes from the outside, we use insulation with a thickness of at least 30 mm. We cut the polystyrene foam board to a width of 5 mm less than the width of the slope, or before gluing it, we cut out a wedge (8–10 mm) from the insulation and fill the gap between the insulator and the frame with silicone mastic.

   When insulating slopes, the slabs should protrude 10 mm beyond the slope, making it very convenient to join the main façade insulation.

   The slabs are installed at the corners with bandaged seams. You should also pay attention to the connection of the heat insulator to the under-roof lining, because this place especially requires protection from mechanical stress and moisture from getting under the slabs. To do this, the edge of the heat-insulating material is strengthened with another layer of reinforcing mesh, as for window and doorways, the insulating layer on top is protected with a cornice strip.

   

4. Leveling the surface of the insulation All unevenness of the glued insulation must be sanded off with a grater and sandpaper. This is done only after the glue has hardened, 2 days after gluing the slabs. The grater should be made in circular motions with slight pressure.

   

5. Fastening the insulation to the wall with dowels After 2 days, when the glue has already set, we begin to attach the insulation to the base mechanically - with special dowels with wide heads. We select an area and use a hammer drill to drill holes in it with a Ø 10 mm drill bit, 15–20 mm deep and 15–20 mm longer than the length of the dowel. Otherwise, debris falling into the hole will not allow the tip to be driven in. We calculate the length of the fungus according to the following scheme: thickness of the insulating material + 10 mm (thickness of other layers) + 40–50 mm into the wall. Let’s say if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the length of the dowel will be 110 mm, i.e. 50+10+50. The length of the hole will be 130 mm: 110+20, which means the length of the drill is slightly more than 130 mm. Place the holes on the sheets: at the joints and in the center. A total of 5 fungi will be used per leaf. More can be done if necessary. Regardless of the location of the dowels on the slabs within the same plane of the area, the sheets are nailed 50–100 mm from their edge. Now we drive spacer tips into the dowels; if they are difficult to hammer in completely, we pull out the dowel, deepen the hole and hammer in the tip again.

   It is worth remembering that for work you should buy a dowel with a thermal head. Otherwise, over time, they may appear on the façade. rust spots. The dowel rod itself is metal, its spacer zone is located in brickwork or concrete, therefore, the metal rod is a cold bridge and can rust over time, and the thermal head will protect the facade from such a problem.

   

A dowel is considered to be properly strengthened when its head is in the same plane with the heat-insulating material.

If it is necessary to lay two layers of heat insulation, then we perform the first layers in the same way as described above, and glue the second onto the first, but in such a way that the joints overlap. After grouting the surface, you can hammer in the dowels, just choose the correct length of the product so that it is enough for the thickness of the insulation and the base.

In cases where the thickness of the insulation in two layers is greater than the existing length of the fastener, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam assembly adhesive for fastening. If you use ordinary polyurethane foam, you may not be able to achieve a flat surface, because... the expansion of the foam is much greater than the expansion of the mounting adhesive for polystyrene foam.

Plastering work on insulation

Before plastering polystyrene foam or other insulation, it is necessary to perform a number of operations, which can be divided into 3 stages:

• Surface reinforcement
• Plastering works
• Finishing

Surface reinforcement

The “wet facade” technology after installing the insulation requires the next step to reinforce the surface. This function is performed by a fiberglass mesh coated with a polymer composition to protect the material from alkali corrosion. According to GOST R 537862010 “Heat-insulating composite façade systems with external plaster layers” reinforcement occurs by “recessing” it into the base composition during its application.

Fiberglass mesh is an industrially produced material in which the threads are fastened in perpendicular directions and form cells. All products must comply GOST R 55225-2012 “Alkali-resistant façade reinforcement fiberglass mesh. Technical conditions".

Fiberglass mesh with a density of 160 to 220 g/m2 is suitable for work. The specified minimum is specified in the technical regulations of well-known system manufacturers facade insulation: Knauf in “System external thermal insulation KNAUF-TEPLAYA WALL”, thermal insulation systems Seresit WM. By purchasing material with low density, the developer reduces the reliability and strength of his façade in relation to tensile forces in the plaster layer.

The mesh will also serve reliable basis for the next layer of plaster. If you glue a material that does not meet the above requirements, the alkaline solution will dissolve the mesh within several years.

Such material will reliably protect the facade from cracks that occur under the influence of temperature differences.

The grid should have a mark “for external, façade work”. According to GOST R 55225-2012 “Alkali-resistant façade reinforcement fiberglass mesh. Technical specifications", product markings must be on each roll. By type, depending on the purpose, facade fiberglass meshes are:

• privates - R;
• reinforced - U;
• architectural - A.

Marking of mesh for facade (FS) includes: abbreviated designation of the product, its type, nominal weight and width, tensile strength along the warp and weft, designation of the regulatory standard.

An example is this marking: FSR-160(110)-2000/2000 GOST R, where

• FS – façade mesh;
• R - ordinary;
• 160 – mass in grams;
• 110 – length in cm

• 2000/2000 – breaking forces on the warp and weft equal to 2000 N;
• GOST R – standard.

To secure the mesh, you need a layer of adhesive-plaster mixture, into which a fiberglass mesh is embedded, which serves as the basis for high-quality plaster. It must match GOST R 54359-2011 “Adhesive, base plaster, leveling, putty compositions based on cement binder for facade heat-insulating composite systems with external plaster layers”. It is better to begin this stage 72 hours after gluing the heat insulator to the wall. Remember that this must be done not in rainy weather and in air temperatures not lower than +5°C and not higher than +25°C. Do not leave thermal insulation material uncovered for more than 2 weeks. If this happens, then before performing reinforcement, check the quality of the material: clean yellowed slabs with a dusty surface with a grater or a plane. We start working with difficult areas - corners and slopes.

Corner reinforcement

To work, we will need a plastic corner, since it is chemically inert, and the cement mortar we use has an alkaline environment. In addition, polymers practically do not corrode and are easy to cut.

Profile marking: UP S-10 x 15 x 2500 is deciphered as follows:

• UP – corner profile;
• C – mesh;
• 10 – width, mm;
• 15 – length, mm;
• 2500 – length, in mm.

We start working from the corner of the building. This means that before this it is necessary to put them, both internal and external, in order - install ready-made perforated plastic corners with a mesh, these are commercially available, we talked about them above. The diagram of their location is clearly visible in the figure.

Do not forget that the corners should be set professionally, and the insulation should be laid level using a “rule” and thread. We press the corners against the insulation and, using a level, align them horizontally and vertically. The glue protruding through the perforation, which was applied to the surface in advance, is smoothed out, with its help the corner is leveled and fixed.

The process itself occurs as follows: apply the solution to a corner with a spatula (200 mm) (50–70 mm on each side of the corner, with a layer thickness of 2–3 mm). We attach plastic corner on the corner of the building, press it to the surface and smooth it with a spatula along the mesh from the corner to the side, slightly downwards. It turns out to be a corner, on each side of which 50–70 mm of mesh is glued, and another 50–70 mm of mesh over the clean insulation.

If a situation arises that it is necessary to connect two corners together, then we connect them vertically, just do not forget that the joint must be covered on top with a reinforcing mesh, at least 100 millimeters.

Reinforcement of door and window openings

Using a level, we check the slopes again and, if necessary, trim them using a grater. We install connection profiles with the mesh. In the diagram you can see the finished design of the window opening.

We apply a layer of mortar to the slopes, the profile mesh is stretched, embedded into it and smoothed out. We do this around the entire perimeter of the opening. Next, we install corners and a window sill profile with fiberglass mesh on the corners of the opening. A little more solution is applied to the corners so that air cavities are not created under the profiles, and the excess solution will come out through the perforations. Do not forget to check the correct installation of the profile with a level.

It turns out that one mesh overlaps the other, they are sunk into the solution and we apply a “kerchief” - a piece of mesh - to all 4 corners of the opening at an angle of 45 0. Externally it will look like this:

Location of the gusset

Tension is created at the corners of the openings and the “kerchiefs” prevent cracks from appearing in these places. This part of the work is carried out in the same way as the previous ones: a solution is applied to the surface, a mesh is applied, and it is embedded using a spatula. Only the “kerchief” must be pressed in with force, all excess adhesive mixture must be removed so that there are no thickenings on the surface.

When the slopes are processed, strips of fiberglass mesh must be glued onto their inner corners, the width of which will be equal to the width of the slope, and the length will be 300–400 mm.

Attaching the reinforcing mesh to the insulation

We start moving from the top from the left corner of the site, then downwards with diagonal movements in the direction from the center to the sides. We trim the excess length of the mesh from below at the level of the base profile.

The glue must be applied with a spatula, at least 350 mm. Using a smaller tool, apply the mixture to the larger one, stretching it along the entire length of the tool, and apply the solution to the insulation. Ceresit has proven itself well. The layer should be 2–3 mm. The work should be done in small sections: 90 cm in width and about one meter in height. If the mesh in the roll is 1 m, then we grab 90 cm and 10 cm remains clean without any mixture for the joint.

We process only a meter in height: in sunny weather the solution dries quickly, but you need to have time to apply it, lay the mesh, add the solution and smooth the surface with a spatula.

We apply the mesh so that the width of 100 mm lies on a clean area of ​​insulation. Using a spatula, smooth the area from the center to the edges, downwards, so that the mesh “sticks” evenly into the mixture. It is ideal when it is completely in the mixture, but its outlines are barely visible.

The mesh is sold in rolls; you need to make a strip of mesh from top to bottom, without cutting, and only join the seams vertically. Starting from the top to make a height of 1.5–2 meters, go down and finish the work.

The principle for joining seams is the same in both vertical and horizontal directions. We leave 100 mm of mesh without mortar; it simply lies on the heat-insulating material. We coat the next area with the mixture (covering a clean strip), apply a mesh with an overlap of 100 mm and level the area with a spatula. This way we will get more even and smooth seams on top.

The mesh must be well stretched, placed in the middle of the adhesive solution layer, it must extend to the surface and its pattern should not be visible.

If the mesh is not stretched and you get bubbles or folds, you will have to cut it out and glue a new mesh with an overlap of 100 mm along the edges of the cutout.

Remember that you cannot glue the mesh by laying it on insulation that has not been treated with an adhesive. With a thin reinforcing layer, cracks will appear in the plaster at the junctions of the heat-insulating material. Also, surface deformation may be due to the fact that the reinforcing mesh was laid without overlap or was unevenly recessed in the solution.

After the adhesive has dried, the surface must be primed with a layer of plaster (2–3 mm). It will chemically separate the plaster layer from the reinforced one, reduce absorption, and increase the adhesion of the finishing material. Be sure to make sure that the dowel heads are hidden and the reinforced layer adheres to its head.

Finishing

“Wet facade” in relation to the exterior decoration of the house gives wide choose. Traditionally these are: textured plaster, “bark beetle”, “fur coat” and painting.

But after the surface of the reinforced layer of the facade has dried, it must be sanded. A plastic grater with an emery attachment is suitable for this. The movements should be circular, counterclockwise, with little effort. Grab an area that is not large, at arm's length, so that it is comfortable to work with. Then we perform dust removal and priming on the surface.

Materials for the finishing layer of the “wet facade”

The decorative coating should not reduce the vapor permeability and hydrophobicity of the protective layer, which means we select materials that meet such indicators as:

• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to water and adverse natural factors;
• strength.

It will not be possible to prepare a plaster mixture for the facade on your own, since using a commonly available solution based on sand and cement is not enough. This requires special components and additives. Available for sale facade plaster on polystyrene foam, its analogues, mineral wool. More details about materials can be found in the article “Find out what types of facades are used for which houses: stone, wood, plastered, translucent, composite.”

It is worth remembering that it is better not to combine mixtures from different manufacturers. Well-known manufacturers offer their own sets of materials, which necessarily include: adhesive and plaster solutions, primer composition, facade paint, fasteners. Each composition is selected in such a way as to ensure the best combination of strength and durability properties.

For work, only special compositions for external work are used. You can find out more about them in the article “Facades”; here we will talk about plaster mixtures for certain types of insulation.

You can plaster polystyrene foam from the outside:

• mineral mixtures;
• acrylic compounds;
• silicone solutions;
• silicate plasters.

The solution for finishing foam plastic, expanded polystyrene or penoplex must be specialized, designed specifically for working with synthetic insulation. And remember that prices from different manufacturers differ significantly, but choose high-quality material, since the strength and durability of the coating depends on this.

Thermal insulators of the Penoplex company are considered the most effective of all currently existing. Thus, at the end of 2011 (company data), the share of their products in this segment in the domestic market was 52%. And in May last year, 2015, the first domestic and fourth in the world production line with a capacity of 550,000 m 3 of thermal insulation per year was launched in Novomoskovsk.

However, the material is exposed to external factors: sun, frost, wind, shock loads. Under their influence, the heat insulator loses its properties and is destroyed. A win-win option for protection is plastering the facade using penoplex or other insulation materials:

1. Mineral plaster, which consists of cement and polymers. It has a low coefficient of water absorption, is resistant to fungi and mold, is easy to apply, and is effective in insulating facades.
2. Acrylic composition, which is elastic, has good water-repellent characteristics, and is not afraid of the influence of UV radiation. If you live in a place with increased level humidity and don’t know how to plaster penoplex on the outside, feel free to use this composition.
3. Silicate mixture quite effective, elastic, antistatic, vapor-permeable, resistant to climatic precipitation.
4. Silicate plaster, which has high vapor permeability, elasticity, and is resistant to aggressive chemical compounds, microorganisms, and ultraviolet radiation. But the cost of its compositions is much higher than those described above, it is more difficult to apply and the color palette is dominated by pastel colors.

The plastered surface can be made smooth and embossed. When choosing a plaster mixture, be sure to look at what texture it is intended for.

In terms of resistance to mechanical loads, experts consider acrylic plaster to be effective, followed by silicate and mineral plaster. The service life is affected by the texture of the surface: smooth is more sensitive to external influences.

It is also worth noting that mineral wool is used to insulate the facade. This material has the following qualities:

• good fire resistance;
• high vapor permeability, water-repellent parameters;
• environmental well-being;
• long service life.

Such thermal insulation will last a long time and reliably protect the walls of your home. Modern products are treated with water-repellent compounds during the manufacturing process. Previously, the disadvantage of mineral wool was the release of formaldehyde resins from it during its production, but modern technologies have helped get rid of this disadvantage.
In 2009, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), based on confirmation from the NTP (National Toxicology Program) organization in the USA, assigned mineral wool group 3 according to the IARC classification (IARC/CIRC). This includes materials that are not classified as human carcinogens, such as tea and coffee. And in 2010, the World Health Organization recognized mineral wool as completely harmless.

The heat insulator is attached to the wall using adhesive and then, for reliability, dowels with wide caps are hammered in. Next comes the process of reinforcement, plastering on mineral wool - the same as on polystyrene foam, and painting the facade.

Facade plastering technology

Choosing the right composition is important point when insulating the external walls of a house. But the quality of the coating depends not only on the material, but also on how to plaster the insulation. This must be done correctly, following a certain sequence.

When plastering, remember that one wall must be completed at a time, otherwise traces of the joint will remain on the surface.

Insulation plaster is applied to the surface no earlier than 3–7 days after the lining plaster is completed. Requirements are met SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings”: temperature not lower than +5°C, not higher than +25°C. Strong wind and precipitation are not allowed.

To apply the plaster layer you will need:

• a mixer for construction work or a hammer drill with an attachment for mixing mortar;
• capacity;
• large and small spatulas;
• grater or grater.

If you know how to plaster mineral wool, but you do not know how to plaster penoplex, then understand that there is no difference in the processing of insulation at this stage. First of all, using a mixer, mix the solution in the container, it is written on the package detailed instructions. We apply the plaster mortar with a small spatula onto a large one and distribute the composition evenly vertically along the wall, pulling it out.

We collect the excess with a grater, which we hold at a slight angle and lightly press against the wall. Mix the excess plaster with the bulk in the container.

We begin grouting the next section of plaster from the junction with the previous one. The solution should not be dry at the joint.

When the layer of plaster has set a little, we rub the surface with a smooth trowel dipped in water to level out defects, and then we give the wall the desired texture using floats made of artificial material.

Facade painting

When the walls are dry, they can be painted. You can learn about which paint to choose for the job and how to calculate the required amount in the article “Paint for facades.” To work you will need a ditch, a paint sprayer or a roller on telescopic handle, brushes, round brush made of natural bristles, masking tape, plastic film.

Any paint will make the color of the facade uniform, it will protect it from moisture and dirt. We recommend painting all plaster mixtures, except acrylic ones.

Be sure to protect the base and its top edge. If you paint with a roller or brush, then masking tape is sufficient, but if you use a spray gun for work, it is better to cover it with thick paper. Cover windows, eaves, and metal parts of the building with plastic film.

Lime paint is considered extremely beneficial for plastered surfaces, as it can be diluted with water, but it is not durable.

When using it for work, comply with the requirements GOST 12.3.035-84 SSBT “Construction. Painting works. Safety requirements", Do not forget about your safety - use rubberized gloves and safety glasses. Splashes of paint on the skin are easily washed off with water, but this must be done in a timely manner.

The final coat of paint is applied to a single wall in one pass without interruption, so that joints are not visible on the surface.

Working with a paint sprayer is much faster and more convenient. You need to start from any angle, moving up and down. But be sure to use personal protective equipment: goggles, gloves and clothing.
Paint brushes are needed for painting surfaces in hard-to-reach places.
Working with a roller will not cause any particular difficulties. The area of ​​the area that needs to be processed at a time should not exceed 1 m2. Roll out a roller in a ditch, it will be saturated with paint, and apply 3-4 stripes to the walls. After this, we roll them with a roller until the paint is evenly distributed over the surface.

Among the most common errors are the following:

• Carrying out work under unfavorable climatic conditions, in which case a wet façade will cause cracks or swelling of the surface.
• Poor surface preparation.
• Poor quality and loose joining of thermal insulation material.
• Incorrect position of the reinforcing mesh, small overlap.
• Laying the mesh directly on the thermal insulation layer.
• Wrong choice of material and its inconsistency.
• Failure to comply with the rules for fastening insulation in a checkerboard pattern.

When insulating even a one-story house, you will still have to use scaffolding or scaffolding. If you work alone, then in order not to drag them from place to place, it is better to carry out the work in sections: in height according to the height of the paver, and in width - based on the dimensions of the scaffolding.

Having decided to insulate your home various materials, you can combine them.

In the picture, the protruding part is lined with a “wet façade”. In this case, you should not use mineral wool, as it will sag during installation.

Soldering polystyrene will be difficult to work with, but the results with this material will be excellent.

Installation of a “wet facade” should be carried out in the spring-summer period, then there will be no need to construct a thermal circuit, which will not entail additional cash investments. If the installation technology is violated, a greenhouse effect is likely to occur, and this will have a destructive effect on the plaster layer.

Wet insulation of facades (sometimes called “wet facade” insulation) is one of the most popular insulation methods in construction - it is used both in private and high-rise construction (of any number of floors), in the construction of new and reconstruction of old buildings.

In the article we will list the main stages of installation

A little about the history: wet insulation systems for facades were invented in Germany in the 50s of the last century. Its German name is the WDVS system, or also “light wet method”. It began to be widely used in the 70s of the twentieth century. During this period, architects were tasked with solving issues of energy saving in buildings. Every year such requirements are increasing, and if 30 years ago insulation was rare, now it is a necessity.

Features of façade arrangement

Please note that any external insulation walls is correct. Internal insulation is used in cases where external insulation is impossible for some reason. More information about this will be written in the article “Options for installing a façade in a private house.”

• the design of your house requires finishing the facade with plaster;
• The walls of your home require additional insulation.

So, let's look at what a wet facade insulation system is.

The wet facade insulation system consists of the following layers

Thermal insulation layer- consists of insulation ( basalt wool or polystyrene foam) (2), an adhesive mixture (3) and dowels (4), with which the insulation is attached to the base. This layer will perform its heat-insulating function only if it is protected from atmospheric influences. Insulation is not a structural material, that is, it does not have sufficient load-bearing capacity to attach a decorative and finishing layer to it.

Adhesive reinforcement layer- consists of an adhesive solution (5) and a reinforcing facade fiberglass mesh (6) and a primer (7). The main functions of this layer are to protect thermal insulation from atmospheric phenomena, strengthen the mechanical strength of thermal insulation, and impart load-bearing capacity to thermal insulation.

Decorative finishing layer- this is decorative plaster, of various textures, painted in different colors.

1 - base; 2 - thermal insulation; 3 - glue; 4 - plastic dowels; 5 - fiberglass mesh; 6 - adhesive solution; 7 - primer; 8 - finishing layer

Materials required for installing a façade insulation system

An important point to consider when purchasing materials is that all materials must be components of one system. And only a specialist can select materials for one system. Therefore, as a rule, materials for facades are sold as a “system” - this is a complex of materials with similar physical characteristics (thermal expansion, water absorption, frost resistance, vapor permeability) and taking into account the chemical processes that occur in the system.

Based project documentation, developed by the designer, the supplier company finalizes the components and assembles materials for the facade, taking into account technical, climatic, architectural conditions operation of buildings.

When designing and installing the facade, and supplying materials, two points must be observed:

Continuity thermal circuit(that is, there should be no gaps, breaks, or cracks);

Preserving the vapor permeability of the system cake (a correctly selected system is a system in which each subsequent layer of materials from the inside to the outside has a higher vapor permeability rate, in other words, your house “breathes”).

Choosing insulation for facade finishing

Since insulation has the greatest impact on the cost of 1 m2 of facade, let’s consider the main issues that arise when choosing it.

Important! The thickness of the insulation is calculated by the designer; it depends on the climate zone and the base (what material the wall is made of).

The beginning of façade insulation

At what stage of construction is facade work carried out?

• When the roof installation is completed;
• External waterproofing of the foundation has been completed;
• Shrinkage of the house has already occurred;
• Windows, ventilation, air conditioning and other systems have been installed;
• The building has been dried out;
• Weather with a stable above-zero temperature is expected for 2-3 weeks (beginning of autumn or end of spring, facade work “does not like” heat or frost).

Preferred, but not required:

• We completed the initial finishing of the interior walls, concrete work, pouring and screeding of floors;
• Installed electrical wiring, alarm, etc.;
• The building is heated (for the cold season).

The main steps will be listed below in order to understand how to insulate a wet facade. Each “system” seller provides installation instructions, taking into account the installation features of this particular system. Don't forget this.

How to insulate a wet facade (facade with cotton wool)

Installation is carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 0 C and not higher than +30 0 C; installation is possible at lower temperatures, subject to the installation of a thermal circuit.

Thermal circuit is when in the area where façade work is being carried out, a temperature is created that is not lower than +5 0 C, optimally +10 0 C, +15 0 C. It happens like this: the scaffolding is covered with a special reinforced facade film and with the help of heat guns (heaters) continuously served warm air into the space between the film and the facade.

During installation, all layers must be protected from precipitation.

Preparatory stage

To carry out the work, it is necessary to install scaffolding with protective film or a mesh (they will protect the facade from the sun and precipitation and prevent pollution of the yard).

The walls must be cleaned of any dirt, old coatings, efflorescence, and fungi.

Assess the surface on which the insulation will be mounted. It should be smooth. Unevenness needs to be leveled out plaster mortar. Permissible wall differences are ± 1 cm per 1 m of length.

Crumbling surfaces are treated with a fixing primer.

Installation of the base profile

Its functions are a leveling element (horizontal alignment of the facade) and protection of the lower part of the insulation slab from external influences.

Applying adhesive composition to thermal insulation boards

Gluing

Produced in the direction from bottom to top, the first row of insulation boards rests on the base profile.

The slabs are installed with a “banding”; outwardly it looks like brickwork.

This is how insulation is installed in the area of ​​window and door openings:

Fastening the insulating board with dowels

The glue must dry (see installation instructions for time), after which the slabs are secured with dowels. Dowels are selected depending on the base on which installation is carried out.

After that, connections to door and window openings, reinforcement of external corners and reinforcement of the tops of the corners of openings are made.

Construction of the reinforcing layer

Produced one day after reinforcement of corners,

First, create a base plaster layer, 3-4 mm thick.

into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded

After this, a leveling layer is applied

Plaster

An example of calculating the cost of a structure with mineral wool:

This system is based on Ukrainian-made materials.

The price does not include, but you will need: base, corner profile, junction profile, base dowel. Their cost is included in the cost of 1 m2 of facade (see below).

How to insulate a wet facade (facade with foam plastic and EPS)

The sequence of work is similar, but of course there are many nuances associated with installation.

The main thing you need to understand is that these are different systems, with different characteristics, and you need to follow the recommendations of the suppliers of these systems and not replace them with “random” materials. For example, different adhesive mixtures are used for cotton wool and polystyrene foam.

Cost of construction with foam plastic

Cost of 1 m2 of facade with work and materials.

Price square meter- the figure is approximate, it depends on:

Facade installation conditions;

What materials are used (imported or domestically produced).

The estimated cost of insulating a plaster facade, taking into account materials and work, ranges from 40-55 $/m2 (mineral wool), 33-40 $/m2 (foam plastic).

In addition, we draw your attention to the fact that there are a number of additional works, the cost of which is not included in this figure (installation of a heating circuit, cleaning the area) and they will also require additional costs.

You can estimate your costs for insulation only on the basis of a preliminary calculation of the cost of installation and the system, which will be provided to you by the company performing the work.

• Choose only “systems” with a name on the market, the quality of which is documented;
• Trust the work only to specialists. Correcting errors is much more expensive, it is better to pay professionals.

Important! Specialists must have a number of completed projects and certificates from system suppliers.

How to check the quality of work performed

Of course, it’s not your task to continuously monitor workers, but it’s still worth taking a closer look at such moments and making sure that:

• Preliminary preparation of the base has been carried out;
• The adhesive composition is applied to the insulation correctly, according to the instructions;
• The insulation is glued evenly;
• The insulation boards are tightly joined to each other;
• The dowels do not protrude above the insulation;
• The reinforcing mesh is not laid on the insulation, but is recessed into the base plaster layer;
• “Breathing” plaster is used; after application it does not crumble;
• The facade is protected from moisture from the window sills and roof;
• The façade is smooth and does not bulge;
• There are no vertical, “spider-web” cracks on the façade, or diagonal cracks in the corners of door and window openings.

According to European standards, the service life of such an insulation system is 25 years.

Repaint it or change the texture of the plaster (re-plaster) if necessary, possibly earlier.