In order to get perfect warm log house For permanent residence, it’s not enough to mount it correctly. It is also necessary to qualitatively fill all the cracks between the logs so that heat loss overcomes the house as little as possible. Not everyone knows how to properly caulk a log house, and therefore insulation work sometimes leads to the house being skewed (in the worst case) or simply rotting the wood and insulation (in the best case).
How to properly caulk moss log houses video and general recommendations on other types of insulation in our material below.
Materials for caulking a log house
You can caulk a wooden frame various materials. Good construction market today offers a wide selection from natural to synthetic and semi-synthetic. The most popular types are:
- Construction moss. May be called “sphagnum” or “cuckoo flax”. This type of insulation was used by architects back in ancient Rus'. The qualities of moss as insulation are priceless and undeniable. Sphagnum is highly resistant to moisture. It seems to get along with the tree if the latter is waterlogged and simply takes all the moisture into itself. In addition, moss is of no interest to birds, moths and other insects. This means that all the material for caulking will remain in the place that the master determines for it. Sphagnum moss and cuckoo flax moss do not burn, do not rot, and are an excellent natural antiseptic for wood for many years.
Important: you can buy building moss in any quantity at specialized sales points.
- Construction tow. This type of material also works well in tandem with wood when caulking walls. Tow is produced from the remains of flax and hemp grass. Tow is also a natural material that protects wood from moisture and cold.
- Jute fiber in the form of a tape - an improved natural type material for caulking walls. Jute is made from a shrub that belongs to the linden family. And linden, as you know, copes well with cold and moisture. Jute is able to somewhat moisten the log when it dries out excessively, but at the same time it does not take moisture from the tree when the humidity in the house is 80%. It is convenient to lay jute tape between the crowns, as well as stuff it into cracks when re-insulating the house.
- Lnovatin. Insulation is produced from flax fiber in the form of a wide tape. According to their own technical specifications Linen wool is similar to jute. Convenient for laying between crowns and for stretch caulking.
- Felt. Unsuitable type of insulation for wooden house. Felt is prone to rotting between logs and if excessive amounts of moisture get on the walls, the felt will not only lose its insulating properties, but will also damage the wood from the inside.
Tool for getting the job done
To properly caulk a log house, you need to use special tools. Otherwise, the insulation will lie superficially in the cracks, which will lead to the formation of cold bridges. Mostly professionals use special caulks made of steel or metal. The first one is better. Can also be made wooden caulking made of dense wood - beech, walnut, oak. It is desirable that the tool have a rubberized handle for ease of work.
Important: the caulking tool must not have sharp blade, otherwise the insulation may be damaged during caulking. For the same reason, you should avoid nicks on the surface of the tool. In this case, the insulation clings to the teeth and breaks.
The main type of caulking tools:
- Stacked caulk. It is a kind of flat chisel with a blade width of 10x0.6 cm. It is used for stuffing the seams between logs with insulation.
- Crooked caulk. The same chisel, but curved in shape. Used for caulking house corners and rounded cracks. The width of the blade in this case is half that of a type-setting caulk.
- Road caulk. It has a fork-shaped shape and is used for caulking cracks using the “stretching” method. The blade here has parameters of 170x15 mm. Depending on the width of the gap, you can use wide, medium or narrow caulk.
- The caulk is broken. It has a wedge-shaped blade 30-35 mm wide. This tool is used to widen narrow cracks and fill them with insulation.
- A mallet is used to assist all types of tools. Using such a rubber hammer, push the seal into the cracks.
Technology of work execution
In order for a log house to be properly insulated, the insulation must be laid in several stages. First, roll insulation or building moss is laid between the crowns so that it protrudes 5-6 cm beyond the edges of the log. In this case, tape insulation such as jute or flax fiber is fixed to the tree with a construction stapler. By the way, you can do the same with moss.
After the house settles and settles, new cracks will form. It is through them that heat loss will occur. In addition, the heat that leaves the house when in contact with wood and low temperatures on the street it will form perspiration (moisture). That, in turn, turns into frost, which will begin to destroy the log. That is why additional caulking of new cracks and packing of the protruding seal between the crowns is required.
The third caulking can be done after 2-3 years, when the house has completely settled down and all possible cracks will be open to the master.
Caulking methods
Stretch insulation
This method involves filling narrow cracks and gaps. It is good for caulking houses made of rounded logs, since the gaps here are minimal. At the same time, you should be careful with the caulking of such a log house. There is a risk of overstuffing the cracks, which will lead to distortion of the crowns, and therefore the walls.
So, “stretch” insulation is performed in this way:
- As soon as a 5 cm long edge of insulation remains, take a new bundle of insulation and its edge is woven with the remaining end.
- The resulting plexus is hammered into the gap and thus continues to caulk all the gaps.
Important: the quality of the caulk can be checked by pulling the remaining end of the insulation. If the material comes out of the gap freely, then the job was done incorrectly. If the insulation remains in the crack, then everything is done well.
Caulk “as a set”
This method is used to fill large gaps. Here you need to wind the insulation into a skein. Then loops are made from the resulting fiber and the cracks are stuffed with them. Moreover, first they caulk the upper part of the gap using a driving tool, and then hammer the loops into the lower part of the gap using a “road builder” tool. It is worth knowing that the thickness of the insulation loop should correspond to the thickness of the existing gap in the log house.
Important: when working with a mallet, it is worth remembering that there should be one hammer blow per blade width. Do not go too hard, otherwise there is a risk of overfilling the cracks, which will lead to the house being skewed.
There are also a number general requirements which should be observed when caulking a log house. By following them, you will be able to avoid serious mistakes in your work:
- So, you need to start re-caulking the house from the lower crowns, since when you fill the insulation into the cracks, the house will rise by 5-15 cm.
- It is necessary to fill the gaps alternately from the outside and from the inside of the house. That is, first they fill the gap lower crown from the outside, and then go inside the log house and fill the gaps of the same crown from the inside. This technology will help maintain the evenness of the walls of the house.
- It is best to use natural insulation materials for caulking. Synthetics block the wood's breathing.
- If moss is used for caulking, it should be treated with a special solution of soap and oil in a ratio of 200:500, mixed with a bucket of water.
- Insulation of the house should be carried out in dry weather at a temperature of +10-+20 degrees Celsius.
- In addition, not enough insulation is just as bad as too much insulation. It is worth strictly monitoring the amount of fiber in the loops so that their width matches the width of the gaps.
Remember, work done correctly is a guarantee of warm and cozy home even in severe frosts.
Caulking a log house with your own hands is a rather complicated and tedious task. This is filling between timber or logs of the walls of a house with fibrous insulating materials, for example, tow, felt or moss, as well as other insulating materials.
When building walls wooden houses, inter-crown insulation is laid between the timber or log, but it does not fill all the cracks and spaces. The process of shrinking a new log frame lasts for a long time, about five years, so you need to caulk a wooden house several times. The first time this procedure is carried out immediately after the construction of the log house, the second time - after 2-3 years and last time It should be caulked approximately 5 years after construction.
How to caulk a log house correctly? Even in such simple work, beginners often have questions.
You should start caulking from the lower crown of the log house and fill it completely, without moving to another crown. Only after finishing the caulking of the lower crown should you move on to the next one. This rule must be followed if you do not want your walls to warp.
Caulking methods.
Caulking can be done in 2 ways. You should choose the one that suits you best.
- Stretch - the insulating material must be stretched along the fibers and inserted into the gap using a special tool. The gap should be filled completely, but pieces of tow should be left protruding 5 cm on both sides. Roll the insulation into a roller, wrap it around the remaining ends and stuff it into the gap using caulk.
- In a set - in this case, from the material wound into a ball, you need to collect loops and seal the cracks with them until they are completely filled. If the spaces between the beams are wide, then this method will suit you better than the previous one.
Caulking of a log house made of timber.
The timber walls should be caulked along the perimeter, starting from the bottom. You cannot caulk one wall and leave the rest. After all, the timber rises a little and the walls turn out to be of different heights.
When caulking wooden log house made of timber, it may be that there is no gap at all and there is no way to insert the insulation there. Look on the other side of the gap, from the outside, there is a wide gap there.
Caulking of a log house made of rounded logs.
From walls erected using ordinary or rounded timber, very quickly outside the insulating material is eroded. Therefore, it is very important to carry out high-quality caulking of a house made of rounded timber. But you shouldn’t overdo it here either; if you pack the insulation too much, you can tear the logs apart from each other. First, it is carried out from the outside, and then inside the log house.
Do-it-yourself caulking of log walls is carried out first from the outside and only then from interior wall. All walls of the log house should be caulked, otherwise the walls will warp. You will need more material for a log house than for a timber one.
Even when subsequently finishing the external facade of the house, it is necessary to caulk the outside. This will not only insulate the room, but will not allow moisture to accumulate in the spaces of the walls and rot the logs. So, whichever finishing material you haven’t chosen, you can’t do without caulking a wooden house.
- Jute insulation.
Jute insulation material is by far the most common insulation material, having successfully replaced traditional tow. Jute is imported from India and China. In terms of its characteristics, it surpasses all similar materials and is cheaper in price. Therefore, caulking a log house with jute is an excellent option for insulating a house.
Detailed video of the correct caulk:
Many are already looking at wooden houses in the form of a log house. After all, they look beautiful and are quite warm inside. After all, during the construction of a building, insulation is laid between the crowns of logs, this gives additional confidence in the quality of the log house.
But several years pass and after the house has completely settled, all sorts of cracks and crevices appear. This not only makes the house cold but also spoils appearance. In addition, unclosed cracks are the places where mold and rot will first appear, which will subsequently lead to damage to the building.
To prevent this from happening, after the building shrinks, the log house is caulked. There are several methods for this procedure depending on the selected material; in this article we will look at them.
Material for log caulking
Log caulking can be made from various materials. If insulating jute was used when assembling the building and its ends protrude properly, then this will be sufficient to carry out the necessary manipulations as described below and additional material you won't need it.
If no insulation was used when assembling the log house or its ends do not protrude from the cracks, you will have several options regarding the choice of material.
Most old way This is caulk with moss. Although it is time-tested, today there are many modern materials who have more best qualities for this purpose.
Tow is also very often used for these purposes. To ensure the quality of work is as good as possible, you need to choose jute tow. It will lay down evenly, and it will be easier to work with.
Caulking with rope is often used, and it is recommended to use jute or linen rope.
Recently, the so-called warm seam. This is the result of new technologies that are rapidly advancing especially in the construction industry.
Technology of caulking a log house with jute
To perform caulking we will need:
- Small hammer – 300 – 400 gr.
- Chisel 20 mm.
- Caulk trowel or wide chisel
- Rubber mallet
The caulking of the log house must be done after the building has settled and shrinked. First, during assembly, jute insulation must be laid between the crowns. The caulking process involves turning the jute with a spatula from top to bottom and then compacting it in the groove between the logs. In this case, light blows of the hammer are made on the shoulder blade. You will end up with a folded strip of jute in the form of a rope, which is very practical.
The work is carried out in two stages - primary caulking and main caulking. It is necessary to take into account that caulking of a log house is carried out only after the house has settled; for this it must stand for at least half a year.
Primary caulking is done without strong compaction, especially in those places where the logs have not yet settled into place. In such places, the jute is tucked without compaction, but care should be taken to leave room for further shrinkage of the logs. Caulking a log house, its technology is not very complicated, so we will look at it in detail below.
Caulking must be done sequentially - from bottom to top. First of all, the lower groove around the perimeter of the building will be caulked, then the second groove, etc. It is important to do everything along the perimeter, otherwise caulking a separate wall may cause the building to warp. We also need to take into account that the higher we rise, the less we need to seal the grooves with jute. And the very top two or three grooves are tucked only with the help of a spatula, without hammer blows, this is done in order to avoid the slightest compaction of the jute.
The fact is that the log house will shrink for at least another five years, so the upper crowns will eventually crush the jute tightly themselves.
In a log house, the ends are the weakest point, due to the cut out bowls, so you need to caulk it carefully, without unnecessary effort.
The second caulking, the main one, is carried out together with the finishing, where the caulking of the log house is carried out more tightly. It is advisable to carry out this operation no less than a year and a half after the construction of the building. During this time, the log house will shrink almost completely and, without fear, you will be able to install windows and doors, carry out electrical work and install plumbing.
Periodically, you need to inspect the log house for cracks, especially after a hot summer. After all, even a small gap can lead to wood rotting.
Video instructions for caulking a log house with jute:
This method is not the best today, because there are already many other modern materials that allow you to perform this procedure more quickly and with better quality. But if you decide to use moss for caulking, first of all you need to choose it correctly.
So, moss called “cuckoo flax” or it is also called “red flax” is suitable for caulking a log house. It has long fibers, brownish Brown, with shades of red. “White moss” is also used, or its correct name is “sphagnum moss”. This moss is very soft, similar to cotton wool. Has excellent antiseptic and bactericidal properties. It will never harbor wood pests; moss also kills all fungal spores. Both of these plants are often called construction types moss.
During the construction of a log house, it is laid between the crowns of logs as insulation. In the future, using moss, you can caulk it. This is done twice, the first time immediately after assembly, the second time after some time has passed when the house has settled. This can take from one and a half to two years, or even more.
The moss must first be dried before caulking. And before the process itself, it needs to be moistened with water, otherwise it will crumble upon physical contact.
Caulking timber with moss also requires special tools, you will need:
- Kiyanok
- Caulker
A caulk is a small blade made from the same wood as the frame. This is done so that upon physical contact with the logs they have the same hardness, which will avoid leaving marks on the log house.
A mallet is a small wooden hammer that is used to strike caulk. This allows you to push the moss into the cracks with greater force and fill the free space more tightly.
As in other technologies, caulking begins from the very bottom, going through the entire perimeter. This approach will avoid possible distortion of the building. First they pass the crown from the inside, and then from the outside.
If “cuckoo flax” moss is used, it is formed into a strip up to 10 cm thick, laid parallel to the log and the gap is tightly caulked using the above tools. When used, the white moss fluffs up a little, laying is done perpendicular to the log, so that the fibers hang down by about 5 - 10 cm. Next, caulk is made with the same tools.
Caulk of a log house with a rope
The technology for using rope for caulking is not much different from the above methods. The only thing that needs to be added is that this material needs to be treated more carefully, because it is used not only for insulating the house but also for decorative design, so even light damage is unacceptable.
Caulking a log house with rope, stages:
- The places where the rope will be laid must be cleaned and even washed if possible.
- Treat the log house with antiseptic properties, it is desirable that they have fire retardant properties.
- We make rope piercing of the log house using tools. This work is done carefully, making sure that the cord does not twist. Also make sure that the driving depth is the same everywhere.
- As with other materials, work is carried out from the bottom up along the entire perimeter.
- The undoubted advantage of using jute rope is its decorative component.
Warm seam technology
Before using this method, the seams where this technology will be used must be cleaned. Especially if the cracks are painted with varnish or other materials.
Next, vilotherm must be placed in the cracks and cracks - this is a cord-shaped material made of polyethylene foam. Please note that the cord should be about a third thicker than the slot. This material not only insulates the log house, but will also reduce the consumption of the sealant used.
The sealant is applied with a gun and immediately leveled with a spatula. The recommended sealant thickness is from 4 to 6 mm. Moreover, the adhesion area with wood must be at least 4 mm. from each side. The sealant hardens in no more than a day, so during this time it must be protected from precipitation. For this purpose you can use plastic film. Complete hardening of the substance will occur in approximately 48 hours at a temperature of 23 degrees. Once cured, the sealant turns into a rubber-like substance, so your log house will be as protected as possible.
Now, after complete drying, you can smooth the seam, remove any excess and paint with acrylic-based paints.
Caulking a log house in this way can only be done after the log house has shrunk. This work can be done outside in about a year, but inside the house only after a season with the heating on.
This technology has a number of advantages:
Only done once.
Protects against water ingress, which prevents mold.
Makes your home significantly warmer.
Resistant to temperature changes, not afraid of moisture.
Easy to use, which allows you to significantly speed up the caulking of timber.
A beautiful appearance that allows you to veil even the shortcomings of the building itself.
Wooden houses look beautiful. They are warm because during construction, insulation is placed between the crowns of the logs. But after shrinkage, cracks may appear different sizes, cracks, which spoil its appearance and make it cold. In addition, cracks can become a place for rot and mold to appear. To prevent this from happening, after the structure shrinks, the log house is caulked with moss or other material.
A house or bathhouse made of logs shrinks in the first 2 years after construction. In the first year, the shrinkage of the log house reaches up to 20 cm. This factor should be taken into account when designing a house. This is due to loss of moisture and drying out.
During shrinkage, loose junctions appear in those places where everything was previously sealed. To eliminate this, resort to caulking. It is necessary to take measures to seal the cracks so that there is no heat loss or drafts. These activities are carried out only after the structure has settled.
Material for sealing cracks
Caulking material
Inter-crown insulation is a material for thermal insulation of seams in wooden houses. Insulation is often made from natural materials, which are distinguished by their environmental friendliness and ability to “breathe”, which provides sound and heat insulation. To fill the cracks, the following materials are used: tow, felt, mosses (red, white). Each has advantages and disadvantages.
| Type of material | Characteristics | Advantages | Flaws |
| Tow | Used for primary caulking, after shrinkage of the house. They are made from flax fiber in 2 types: in bales, rolls (tape). The latter is more convenient for work, better in quality, soft. Before laying, it must be treated with a special antiseptic solution to repel insects that feed on tow fibers and wood. |
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| Jute | They are made from linden wood, and are produced in the form of ropes, fibers, and tapes of different thicknesses. Apply simultaneously for the first, repeated caulking. More often it is brought from abroad. The material is soft and plastic. Ropes are more convenient to use for work carried out after shrinkage. |
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| Moss | The following types of mosses are used: sphagnum, cuckoo flax, swamp red. Natural material, having antiseptic properties. By collecting it yourself in late autumn, you can save money. After collection, they sort it out, remove all debris, and lightly dry it. Do not dry it too much, otherwise it will break during operation. Before work, the moss must be soaked in a special solution (per 10 liters of water, add 0.5 liters of oil and 0.25 kg laundry soap) to make styling easier, but it shouldn’t be used with too much moisture. The sphagnum must be fluffed up a little and placed across the log so that its fibers hang down by 50 mm (they are then driven into cracks and crevices). |
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Each owner of a log house independently chooses the type of material, taking into account the quality, financial capabilities, and availability of the material.
Caulking technology
Before caulking, the moss is dried. However, before starting the caulking process itself, it is wetted, otherwise it will crumble in your hands and it will be impossible to do any work with it. Caulking with moss is carried out with special tools: caulking, mallet.
The caulking tool is made from the same wood as the log house. This is done so that the tool and the log have the same hardness upon contact. Then there will be no traces left on the log house. Wooden hammer used to strike the caulk, which makes it possible to push the moss into the gap with force and tightly fill the space.
Caulk with moss begins from the bottom row, passing along the perimeter. This approach avoids distortions. The crown passes completely from the outside to the inside. Before use, “Kukushkin flax” is formed into 100 mm strips, laid parallel to the log, and cracks and cracks are sealed using special tools. White moss is fluffed up a little before work. The laying is done perpendicular to the log with hanging fibers on both sides of the log by 100 mm, which are then pushed into the gap with tools.
Caulk with moss at a log house - not hard work, but requires care. We must ensure that the house does not warp, that the seams are complete, that the logs do not fall out or tear apart from each other. What is needed in this matter is perseverance, time, and patience.
The main stage of insulation of an erected log house made of timber or logs is caulking. This process is an effective sealing of gaps with special insulation materials - tow, moss, jute or linen.
The main purpose of caulking
The first caulking is carried out after installing the crowns and completing the roofing work.
The second stage is performed after partial, which takes from 6 to 10 months.
The final stage of caulking is carried out after complete shrinkage of the wood for the 5th year of operation.
Caulking of a house or bathhouse made of rounded logs must be carried out inside and outside the building.
Materials for sealing the log house
Caulking of a log house is done using practical materials– moss, tow, jute, linen and wood sealant. Each of them has unique properties.
Tow
Tow for caulking is the cheapest and available material, used for insulation and sealing of a log house. Unlike other materials, tow has many disadvantages that reduce its performance characteristics.
She absorbs quickly excess moisture, therefore susceptible to rotting. It is quite difficult to place tow in the inter-crown cracks, and to replace damaged areas with new material.
Tow is prone to damage by household moths and other unwanted organisms.
Moss
Insulate log house baths can be used. This is a reliable and expensive material that is quite in demand among novice craftsmen and professional caulkers.
Moss is absolutely environmentally friendly, safe and practical. In addition, it has unique antibacterial properties while providing good thermal insulation.
Jute
No less popular is jute insulation, which has such advantages as: durability, strength, resistance to rotting and destruction, and high thermal insulation characteristics.
Lnovatin
Due to its high thermal insulation and strength properties, flax wool takes its rightful place among log insulation materials. It is made from flax fibers connected together with fastening tapes.
Special sealants
Modern synthetic-based sealants are often used to caulk a log house. Sealants can be used in conjunction with natural sealants - jute or linen. The material is carefully applied to the joints, creating an even and neat seam.
Caulking tools
To properly organize the work process, it is recommended to prepare the necessary insulation materials, as well as tools for caulking the log house.
- Type-setting caulk. Outwardly, it resembles a chisel, which is used to insulate large gaps (up to 10 cm wide) and small cracks (up to 2 cm wide).
- Road worker for working with caulking.
- Mallet for hammering in insulation.
- Hammer.
- Insulation.
Effective ways to caulk a log house
The process of sealing the seams between the crowns of a log house is carried out in two ways. To obtain a high result, it is recommended to combine both options.
Stretch
This method provides for maximum stretching of the insulating material along the entire length of the seam. First, one strand of insulation is laid into the existing gap. Next, the second strand is twisted, laid on the first and clogged with a type-setting caulk.
This method is effective for initial caulking before shrinkage of the log house. The insulation fibers must be in a perpendicular position with respect to the logs. The ends of the insulation are rolled into a small flat roll and hammered into the resulting seam.
Included in the set
This method is suitable for compacting a log house after its partial or complete shrinkage.
It involves driving in a large amount of insulation, and the process itself is performed as follows: an initial strand 16 mm thick is prepared, then the strands are formed into loops, after which each loop is driven into the gap in a transverse position relative to the gap.
Hammering the strands is done with a caulk or mallet from the top and bottom sides. After the strands are completely driven in, final compaction is performed using a road builder.
Proper insulation of a log house made from cylinders involves effective driving of material along the tier - from bottom to top. First, the joint between the initial and subsequent crowns is processed. Work is carried out along the perimeter of the building from corner to corner. After insulating one tier, you can proceed to the next.
During compaction Special attention It is worth paying attention to the corner elements of the crowns - grooves and locks.
Step-by-step process for caulking a log house with your own hands
Now let’s figure out how to caulk a log house after it has completely settled in order to provide the structure with maximum protection.
All work is performed sequentially using roll insulation in the following order:
- Cleaning the seams between logs from accumulated debris and preliminary insulation that has become unusable. You can use a regular vacuum cleaner to clean surfaces.
- Caulking is done only in rows from one tier to another. This will prevent possible distortion of the finished building structure.
- Insulation is carried out from the outside of the building, then from inside walls
- The insulation is unwound to the length of the wall with an addition of 20 cm for reserve. During the caulking process, small folds may form, so there should be enough material for one tier.
- One end of the tape is driven into the slot and secured with a mallet.
- Next, the material is compacted using a collapsible caulk and a hammer. To do this, the insulation is carefully inserted into the gap and hammered in. The operation is performed several times along the entire length of the seam. When driving in insulation, it is important to ensure that the seam is sealed and that there are no distortions.
- Work on driving in insulation is carried out according to a similar scheme on the inside of the wall.
- Insulation begins from the lower crown, moving towards the upper element. At the top, the material is carefully folded and hammered in such a way as not to interfere with the slight shrinkage of the structure.
If synthetic sealant is used as insulation, the whole process is much simpler and faster. To work you need to purchase a rope the right size made from synthetic fibers.
The rope is carefully laid in the intervention seam along its entire length in such a way as to tightly close the existing cracks. Further thin layer sealant is applied. The width of the layer should not exceed 6 mm and height 11 mm.
After completion of the work, the sealant is processed special composition and carefully leveled with a spatula. Before complete drying, the synthetic composition must be protected from direct sun rays to prevent cracking.
The sealant is used for exterior work; inside, you can use natural fiber rope to decorate the joints.
The process of caulking a log house using natural and synthetic materials does not cause difficulties, does not require large financial investments and practical experience. All you need for the job are working materials and tools, as well as some free time and patience.
