What insulation is better to put on the ceiling. How to insulate the ceiling in a house: available materials. Foam sheets and rolls

Mineral wool - ceiling insulation

Types of insulation

Mineral wool

Mineral wool refers to textile fibers obtained either from a melt of glass (glass wool), or from a melt of blast furnace slag (slag wool), or from melts of volcanic rocks (stone wool). The thickness of the ceiling insulation in the form of mineral wool can be from 20 to 200mm.
Mineral wool is supplied in rolls and bales and, accordingly, can look like a block or like a carpet. The latter type of outlet may have a foil side, which significantly increases the thermal insulation effect.

Foil polyethylene foam

Foil polyethylene foam It is foamed polyethylene glued to a layer of aluminum foil. The thickness of the insulation can be from 1 to 20mm, the width of the roll is 1m.
Despite the small thickness of the insulation, it is quite effective, thanks to the foil, which acts as a heat reflector. Sometimes thin foil polyethylene foam is used in combination with other insulation, building on top of each other, for example, mineral wool is covered with it, which, firstly, increases the power of the thermal barrier and, secondly, does not allow carcinogenic substances emanating from mineral wool to be sprayed.

Styrofoam

Polystyrene foam as insulation is a foamed cellular plastic mass enclosed in a square of regular shape, with sides 100x100cm. The thickness of the product varies and ranges from 20 to 100mm. The density of such blocks can also be different: 15 kg/m 2 or 25 kg/m 2 (this is the density of foam plastic that is usually used in construction for insulating premises).
Foam sheets are used as intermediate insulation for wall and hanging frames, and are installed as a rough base before. Depending on the purpose, the density of the material also changes.

Polyplex

Extruded polystyrene foam or polyplex is produced by polymer extrusion, that is, it is pushed through the required form and get sheets 120x60cm. The thickness of the material starts from 10mm and ends at 200mm, including all intermediate sizes that are multiples of zero. Typically, products with a density of 35 kg/cm 2 or 45 kg/cm 2 are used in construction.
Penoplex happens different color, a chamfer is made along the perimeter of the sheet for more dense installation. Thanks to high density, such insulation on the ceiling is most often used as a rough base for putty.

Expanded clay is made from fusible clay, it is porous, oval-shaped and very light. Such insulation is usually used for backfilling in the attic of a house whose ceiling needs to be insulated. It is also used as a thermal cushion under the screed, which is sometimes poured in the attic.

Advice. When working with any type of mineral wool, use protective equipment, such as glasses, gloves and closed clothing. For those suffering from respiratory diseases, it is advisable to use a respirator or gauze bandage.

Methods for insulating the ceiling

Above

The insulation materials that are installed on the attic side can be of any kind, since such material does not need to be secured with anything, but the only important thing is to tightly cover the entire plane, leaving no cracks or gaps.
In this case, the question is: “Which insulation is better for the ceiling?” makes sense and has an answer. This is the insulation that will be cheaper and will have a sufficient level of thermal insulation. As a rule, expanded clay or mineral wool are used for the attic.

From below

To install a thermal insulator from below you need either hanging frame, or special fastenings, since the insulation will need to be attached to the ceiling by weight. The easiest way is to fill the gap between the main and suspended ceilings with any insulation.

As a rule, in such cases, be it mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, the insulation is threaded through U-shaped hangers for the frame suspended ceiling, and then frame (wooden or metal) profiles are installed. But this method of insulation is possible only if there is enough space in the ceiling cavity for insulation or, in other words, if it is possible to lower the suspended ceiling frame to a distance sufficient for installing insulation.

Foil polyethylene foam can be used at almost any depth of the ceiling cavity, since you can attach the insulation to the ceiling with double-sided tape, and then, directly through it, attach the hangers and the frame itself.

You can also lay ceiling insulation between frame wooden or metal profiles. When laying rigid materials such as polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, gaps remain that need to be filled with foam.

But, if you are not going to install it, two types of insulation will suit you - penoplex and 25-density foam.

To attach such panels you will need glue for foam plastic or for ceramic tiles(both types are suitable) and dowel mushrooms. The polymer sheet is smeared with glue and applied to the pre-primed ceiling, and after the glue has partially dried, it is additionally fixed with fungi. Polystyrene foam is fixed at five points (in the corners and in the center), and penoplex, due to the higher density of the material, at two points (at the edges).

Advice. If you decide to putty the surface using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, then it is better to attach the insulation only after you have leveled the main ceiling itself. This way, it will be easier for you to install the foam and the insulation will not have to support the heavy weight of the putty, which is used to level the finishing surface over the insulation.

Conclusion

All insulation materials are exactly the same, as they perform the same function. The difference between them is only in the installation methods and the possibility of use in certain cases. So in most cases, the choice of thermal insulator depends on personal preference.

Depending on local conditions and the design of the house, the ceiling and roof account for 15-40% of its heat loss. Builders charge a premium for insulation of ceilings, floors and roofs, because... the work is labor-intensive and often has to be done by weight. However, it is quite possible to do ceiling insulation with your own hands without having construction qualifications: the technology is not complicated and in most cases does not require special equipment. This article is intended to help those who decide to insulate themselves from above.

The general scheme of ceiling insulation with modern materials does not appear to be particularly complicated, on the left in the figure: a vapor barrier (vapor barrier) does not allow moisture vapor from the inside to reach the insulation, which can spoil it. The waterproofing membrane does not allow liquid moisture to reach it, incl. and condensation in the attic, but releases water vapor, which still penetrates the insulation. In tiny quantities, but when accumulated, it can reduce insulation to nothing and damage the structure of the building.

However, behind the external simplicity there is a long evolution of insulation technology and many subtle nuances, without knowledge of which the work may be in vain. That's why The following will be discussed:

Physics and features of insulation technology from above.
Properties of modern insulation materials and additional coatings for them: under-roofing, hydro- and vapor barrier films; how to choose the right materials for insulation.
Possibility of using traditional cheap insulators and insulation materials: clay, expanded clay, sawdust, etc.
Schemes and methods of ceiling insulation: from the attic, from the inside of the rooms; also from the inside from the roof side - for houses without an attic (for example, country houses and temporary ones) or with an attic.
How to insulate a ceiling in a house with cold roof and concrete floors.
Methods for insulating ceilings in utility rooms; primarily in the garage and bathhouse.

Cold and warm roofs

A roof without the so-called cold is called a roof. roofing pie: multi-layer insulating building structure between the counter-lattice under the roof deck and internal lining along the rafters. The construction of a roofing pie relates to another topic - roof insulation, but we will have to get acquainted with it later. Firstly, for buildings without attics and attics. Secondly, in a private house, the insulation of the ceiling from the attic and the roof are inextricably linked technologically and structurally, as can be seen on the right in the top figure. Insulating the ceiling from the attic along with the roof from the inside provides the following advantages:

2 layers of insulation of 100 mm each, separated by an extensive thermal buffer in the form of an attic space, are equivalent to 1 layer of the same material of 270-280 mm;
From point 1 it follows that costs for insulation are saved by up to 40%, and overall, taking into account the higher consumption of film, by 10-15%, which allows the use of more effective insulating materials;
By insulating the ceiling from the outside and the roof from the inside at the same time, you can get by with inter-beam insulation (see below), which is technologically simpler and more accessible to an untrained amateur;
“Two-stage” insulation of the top of the building will allow in the future, if necessary, to additionally insulate rooms from the inside separately without the risk of dampening the room.

About mineral wool

Insulation with mineral wool in the Russian Federation is breaking all popularity records: The material is inexpensive and easy to work with. This is explained primarily by large reserves of easily accessible raw materials and production technology that has been developed over many decades. The disposal of blast furnace slag in the USSR had to be taken care of even during the industrial leap of the first five-year plans, and for a breakthrough into space, thermal protection for return capsules was developed based on fibers from melted heat-resistant rocks. So “modern” methods of producing slag wool and stone (especially basalt) wool are actually not that new.

Professionals especially like mineral wool: it does not require expensive special equipment, but there is a wide range of special fasteners and accessories for it on sale. As a result, the ceiling area is up to 20-25 square meters. m can be insulated in less than 1 work shift, or even in 2-3 hours, it depends on who knows how. How it looks technologically can be seen in the video below.

Video: example of ceiling insulation with mineral wool

After reading what follows, you may have a question: where is the membrane between the insulation and the ceiling? It is quite possible that in in this case it is not needed if the attic and roof are already insulated; Why should the owners lay out too much? More Please pay attention to the following precautions when working with mineral wool:

The standard electrical wiring is rolled into a coil and hangs on the wall.
Judging by the fact that a temporary light bulb is used for working lighting, the room is completely de-energized, and its wiring is disconnected in the nearest distribution box or on the introductory panel - this is absolutely correct and absolutely necessary.
The master puts on a full set of equipment personal protection(PPE): special overalls, gloves, goggles, respirator. For an amateur master, this is an important point, because... Quite expensive PPE will have to be used once.

It is already clear here that mineral wool is not without its drawbacks: it is an allergen and a group 3 carcinogen, i.e. Suitable for residential premises, but it is necessary to work with it using PPE. In addition, which all manufacturers and sellers without exception are wisely silent about, under the influence of even insignificant amounts of moisture vapor and its own weight, mineral wool shrinks irreversibly, as a result of which its thermal conductivity drops by 50% in 3 years: air gaps in the insulation are the same thermal bridges , like metal jumpers, only based on microconvection. Gaps between slabs in 5% of the insulated surface area increase heat loss by 30-35%

This leads to another unpleasant circumstance: the simplicity of working with mineral wool is apparent. When cutting slabs/rolls to size, you need to give an overlap (usually 20-40 mm) so that the slabs fit tightly into the openings without sticking out, as on the right in the figure, but also so that further cracks do not appear due to shrinkage. Perhaps this is only based on experience, because... the properties of the material vary significantly from batch to batch.

Finally, the thermal conductivity of brand new mineral wool significantly depends on its humidity - in the direction of deterioration. An increase in air humidity in a room insulated with mineral wool from 60% to 85% leads to an increase in heat loss by 10-12%. Therefore, in further presentation, we, still focusing on mineral wool as the most popular insulation, will give, where possible, recommendations for replacing it with something better.

Note: Also take a closer look at the mounting jig (circled in green on the left in the figure). If you use a propylene linen cord instead of a fishing line, the conductor can be left permanent. Then there will be no need for special fasteners and, when installed on the ceiling and surfaces with a negative slope, sagging in the middle and corners of the slabs will be eliminated.

Physics and technology of insulation

As you know, the critical factor for insulation is the dew point, the temperature at which this absolute value, in g/cubic. m of air, the water vapor content in it corresponds to 100% relative humidity and condensation occurs. It is unacceptable for dew point to enter residential premises: excessively humid air has a detrimental effect on health, and for asthmatics and heart patients it can be fatal.

For building structures the dew point is no more useful: from periodic saturation with moisture, concrete and brick crumble, wood molds and rots, because the resource of its antiseptic impregnation is not unlimited. Since it is impossible to drive the dew point out forever, all that remains is to let it “walk” through the insulation, ensuring it is insulated from moisture vapor and ventilated. This insulation scheme can be most easily implemented when installing the insulation outside, pos. 1a in Fig.

Ways to “fight” dew point during insulation

Sometimes it is technically impossible to insulate from the outside. Or additional insulation is required to the existing one. Analogue - in the old days, in particularly severe frosts, they put on 2 fur coats: the one on the head with the fur inward, and on top of it - with the fur outward. In this case, i.e. when insulating from the inside, its design is designed in such a way that the condensate in the insulation migrates to the cold surface, and there it flows into a collector and is removed or evaporates outside, pos. 1b. In this case, the most insulating material is one that does not lose its insulating properties when moistened. These exist, see below.

Features of ceiling insulation

The peculiarities of ceiling insulation, firstly, are that it is impossible to organize condensate drainage. Even if the ceiling is slanted, will water flow down the walls? Drained walls in construction are known, but their complexity and cost are such that it only remains to be mentioned here. Secondly, warm (emitting water vapor) and cold side ceilings in a low-rise building can change places even in the cold season, due to solar heating. Therefore, the technology of ceiling insulation is focused primarily on ensuring that there is no condensation in the insulation. And if it has already formed, then you need to give it the opportunity to evaporate outward as quickly as possible, i.e. to the cold side.

Cold overlap

On a ceiling made of a material that conducts heat well, for example. concrete, when insulating the outside with loose material, 3 air gaps a, b and c are provided for this purpose, pos. 2a. The gap a between the vapor barrier (vapor barrier) and the insulation layer is a safety gap in case of heavy condensation, which is possible on a cold surface. The gap a must be ventilated, it is technically difficult to implement, therefore it is advisable to insulate ceilings on concrete floors from the inside with massive material, i.e. impervious to moisture, insulation. One of the practically important cases of this kind is discussed below. The gap b is accumulating; a partial pressure of water vapor is created in it, ensuring their diffusion through a semi-permeable membrane that allows gases to pass through but retains liquid moisture. Gap c is the main working one, it is also ventilated, but since it is located closer to the outside, it is easier to ensure its “ventilation”, for example, in the form of a gap around the perimeter.

Note: if there is a technical possibility and the ability to make the gap also ventilated, this will only benefit the insulation.

Warm ceiling

“Warm”, i.e. a poorly conductive ceiling creates a fairly high barrier on the path of heat from the inside to the outside, which shifts the dew point upward into the insulation layer, if you look at pos. 2b. This makes it possible to do without a gap, which in turn simplifies the insulation of a wooden ceiling from the outside. Suddenly, condensation does fall out at the border of the vapor barrier and the base, then in small quantities, it is immediately absorbed into the wood, and then, without bringing the humidity in the room to a critical level, it slowly evaporates. Residents most likely will not notice this - wood maintains its mechanical and thermal parameters in a wide range of humidity.

Therefore, it is preferable to insulate a wooden ceiling from the attic, pos. 3: the base is covered with an inexpensive film vapor barrier (see below); the membrane will also be covered with a regular waterproofing film without metallization. You just need to make sure to create an air gap between the insulation and the membrane; his role is described above.

Aweigh

The requirements for the vapor barrier become more stringent if it is possible for water vapor to enter from free space, because in this case, the intensity of their “attack” is unlimited. Then a vapor barrier is needed made of foil film, pos. 4, because no plastic is an absolute barrier to water vapor. A gap a between the vapor barrier and the insulation is also necessary, but now it is structurally easier to provide. Press the vapor barrier against the insulation, as in pos. 5, is undesirable in all respects, even if the vapor barrier with a substrate, see below: both the work is unnecessary and the insulation is worse.

Insulation materials

Modern advances in building insulation technology largely owe to advances in the field of separation films (membranes). The “good old” roofing felt and glassine and their brothers are still used, but when working for yourself, the least thing you should do is save on films. Both because of the quality and durability, and because by spending a little extra on insulating membranes, you can save more on insulation. Therefore, let's start with membranes.

Barriers and membranes

As is clear from the previous one, separation coatings used in building insulation are divided into vapor barrier coatings, or vapor barriers, which cut off liquids with their vapors, and waterproofing (membranes), which retain only the liquid phase. Vapor barriers, in turn, are divided into film, foil and foil with a capillary substrate (the so-called foil insulation), and the membranes are divided into single-layer film, micro-perforated film with double-sided vapor transmission, and the so-called. superdiffusive membranes that allow vapor to pass through only one direction.

Vapor barriers

Film vapor barriers are only effective when made from polypropylene with a thickness of 60 microns or more. Polyethylene of any thickness, due to its very nanostructure, is vapor permeable, no matter what anyone claims to the contrary. Under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity, PVC soon becomes brittle and cracks.

The basis of the foil vapor barrier can also be polyethylene, because a layer of foil on it does not allow gases to pass through. On quality material of this class, the edge of the foil can be felt at the edge of the tape, and you can pick it up by the corner sharp knife, i.e. The foil is quite thick. Foil insulation with a backing also has a layer of fibrous material (most often padding polyester) on the back, i.e. the side facing the insulation. If condensation falls, it quickly goes through the capillaries of the substrate to the edges of the coating, so foil insulation with the substrate must be installed with flaps, like floor waterproofing, facing into ventilation gap along the perimeter.

Note: in insulation structures on foil insulation with a backing, the “insurance” gap “a” (see above) is not required.

Membranes

Simple film membranes are common waterproofing, incl. and polyethylene. For insulation of ceilings they are suitable only in heated rooms, because... In addition to vapor, noticeable amounts of liquid are also passed through. When insulating from the attic, it is advisable to use microperforated films. Most often they are produced in 3-layers with reinforcement, on the left in the figure; They are also used as coverings for greenhouses and hotbeds. The good thing about them for insulating the ceiling is that the reinforcing mesh does not allow the film to sag too much and ensures a stable height of the gap b.

Superdiffusion membranes are sold as roofing films, in the center in Fig. Their outer side is smooth, metallized, designed to withstand precipitation. Vapors pass through it to the outside; the outer side is either marked, or it is outside and in a roll. The wind resistance of roofing films is ensured by through reinforcement: with high-quality membranes it can be easily felt from the inside, and the film looks as if it was quilted, on the right in Fig.

Insulation materials

Materials for the actual insulation are divided into:

Monolithic, or massive - dense, moisture-proof. The dew point can wander in them as desired without compromising the quality of insulation.
Loose, fibrous and porous - produced in the form of slabs (mats) or rolls. The cheapest and most technologically advanced compared to the quality of insulation. They are hygroscopic, and when moistened, the properties of the material deteriorate, often irreversibly, so measures are needed to protect the insulation from moisture and its ventilation.
Bulk/sprayed – the insulating layer is formed on site; High-quality insulation requires special equipment.

Monolithic

Of the monolithic insulation materials, foamed polystyrene is suitable for independent work. The attic and ceiling under a cold roof must be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. For insulation, EPS is produced in tongue-and-groove slabs, which eliminates the formation of air thermal bridges; therefore, foam insulation schemes are very simple and inexpensive due to the low cost of membranes, see for example. in Fig. EPPS does not shrink and is not hygroscopic. It is durable, capable of working as part of load-bearing structures, its insulating qualities are the highest, and its durability in the open air, according to the latest data, is up to 100 years or more.

Ordinary granular foam plastic can begin to crumble from strong fluctuations in external conditions in just a winter, but it is cheap, easy to process and can be mounted on any surface using tile adhesive. water based or PVA. Its layer of 30 mm is equivalent to 100 mm of mineral wool, so it is advisable to insulate heated rooms with low ceilings from the inside with foam plastic.

Foam and EPS boards do not bend, so they can only be mounted on open surfaces; To insulate the roof with EPS, you will have to dismantle the roof. However, more serious drawback– its flammability and the release of huge amounts of highly toxic gases upon combustion. If a fire in a room insulated from the inside with polystyrene foam occurs at night, when everyone is sleeping, then the residents are virtually doomed: it is possible to evacuate people under such circumstances only in isolated cases. Therefore, it is possible to use polystyrene foam for internal insulation only in limited quantities and when there is no other way; one of these options, see below.

Fibrous/porous

The main advantage of loose insulation is the high productivity of work with them without the use of special equipment, which is why professional individuals, for whom time is money, are so committed to them. Mineral wool and sheet/plate polyurethane foam (neoprene) are suitable for independent work using “rubbish” materials. Mineral wool was discussed in detail earlier, and neoprene for insulation large areas too expensive, although it is not afraid of moisture and is comparable in durability to EPS.

Sprayed and bulk

In terms of overall performance qualities, EPPS is almost not inferior to sprayed foam insulation insulation. When frozen, they are similar to foam plastic, but are made on a formaldehyde-urea base, so they burn poorly and emit little, not very toxic, smoke. The mass that forms penoizol can be fed into hard-to-reach cavities, and kraft paper or glassine is sufficient as separators so that the foaming mass does not push out through the cracks. However, penoizols themselves are not cheap, and are sprayed using expensive installations. To work with a foam insulation station, serious professional training is required, so equipment for spraying penoizol is not rented out.

You can work with cellulose insulation or ecowool on your own: using a blow molding machine does not require professional training, so they are widely sold and rented, from those transported by vehicle to small ones like a backpack or suitcase. Ecowool as an insulation material is relatively little known in the Russian Federation, but compared to mineral wool it is simply a miracle:

Thermal conductivity 0.037-0.042 W/(m*K) is approximately equal to mineral wool; a thickness of ecowool of 100 mm is equivalent to a wall of 3 red solid bricks. This makes it possible to get by with inter-beam insulation, see below.
Up to a humidity level of 20%, the thermal insulation properties of ecowool do not decrease; upon drying after extreme moisture, they are completely restored.
Sorptive moisture absorption for 72 hours in an atmosphere with 100% humidity is 16%.
Does not shrink, does not swell.
Chemically neutral, non-corrosive.
Due to the presence of 12% antiseptic (boric acid) and 7% fire retardant (borax), it is slightly flammable and produces almost no smoke in an extremely hot flame, see on the left in Fig. below.

Unattractive to rodents: they eat glass wool, but do not touch ecowool. After 5 years of application, in a house where mice are infested, their passages in ecowool are not detected.
Application can be done dry by hand on open horizontal surfaces, with moistening using a blowing machine in hard-to-reach cavities (in the center and on the right in the figure), with moistening and adding 5-15% glue on vertical surfaces and with a negative slope, both manually and by spraying .
High labor productivity when spraying moistened (which even a professional should pay attention to): the floor, walls, ceiling and roof (!) of a house with an attic area of 120 square meters. m are “blown out” in 1 work shift.

Note for your reference: ecowool goes on sale under the names Cellulose Insulation, EKOFIBER AB, EKOREMA, EKOVILLA, EXCEL, ISODAN, SELLUVILLA, TERMEX. The world leader in production and application is Finland.

The most important advantage of ecowool is that it is hypoallergenic and hypocarcinogenic., i.e. does not exhibit those and other properties. The raw material for the production of ecowool is waste paper, but who, where and when did something get inflamed or itch from old newspapers? Perhaps in the brain from the content of the articles. But to prepare ecowool, the paper carrier along with the content is ground into a homogeneous gray mass.

Ecowool has three disadvantages:

Firstly, the cost per unit of its mass is approximately 30% higher than that of mineral wool. However, if we take into account the difference in the cost of personal protective equipment for mineral wool and renting a manual blower, then the cost remains approx. 15%. Let’s also discount the costs of membranes (for ecowool, kraft paper is enough on the warm side) - the cost of insulation is almost equal. And if you insulate the ceiling from the attic manually, then ecowool will cost less.
Secondly, ecowool needs to be prepared before use. The original mass is sold compressed 2.5-3.5 times; it needs to be fluffed up in some container, water and glue added if necessary. This is already bad for the pros; time is money, and blow molding machines that prepare the mass themselves are very expensive. But for an amateur and one-time work, this drawback is not particularly significant.
Thirdly, moistened ecowool must be applied in any way at temperatures above 23 degrees and air humidity up to 65-70% so that it can dry. This already seriously hinders its use: until the thunder strikes, the man will not cross himself. In the summer, who thinks about insulation? And then there were chills and heating bills - you can only apply it dry, not everywhere and not always.

Note: If you have a little ecowool left over from your work, keep in mind that this is an excellent material for papier-mâché crafts.

Expanded clay and foam crumbs

Traditional expanded clay (on the left in the figure), the advantages and disadvantages of which are known, can also be replaced with a slightly more expensive, but better material - foam glass chips or simply foam crumbs, on the right there. Foam crumb is lighter than expanded clay, so it can be poured onto a weak base: fragile flooring, into plasterboard pockets (see below), etc. Its heat-insulating properties are higher, allergenic and carcinogenic are not found. An example of two-stage ceiling insulation with expanded clay and mineral wool is shown in Fig. below. The film membrane (bilaterally permeable, not under the roof) ensures vapor exchange between the insulation stages, which is necessary to avoid condensation in the mineral wool. If expanded clay is replaced with foam crumbs, and mineral wool with ecowool, then instead of a membrane, polyethylene with a thickness of 120 microns will be sufficient. In this case, an installation jig is not needed, and the insulation from the inside can be extended to the full height of the ceiling beams.

Sawdust and shavings

Wood processing waste is also a traditional insulation material. How to insulate an attic with shavings, see the video below. Insulating the ceiling with sawdust is more attractive, firstly, because of its poor flammability. Secondly, at the nearest sawmill they can offer you sawdust for free in any quantity, and even deliver it at your own expense.

Video: insulating the ceiling and floor in the attic with sawdust

However, the availability of sawdust is the other side of the coin; they have a very big drawback: they can “soak” and ferment. In this case, CH3OH vapors are released. Yes, yes, that same wood (methyl) alcohol, from which the unlucky drunkards, into whose throats with a voluptuous gurgle it would seem that everything that is not water goes blind and die. That’s why sawmills are happy to get rid of the “sawdust”: according to modern sanitary requirements, sawdust from under the sawmill must be removed continuously and immediately sent for disposal.

Meanwhile, getting rid of both disadvantages of wood waste is not so difficult and expensive. Approximately the same way as ecowool is made safe. Proper insulation with wood waste is carried out as follows:

The work is carried out in the summer when it is very hot and dry;
Prepare in advance in 2 separate containers (necessarily separate) strong solutions boron and borax;
The insulation is poured in layers of 3-5 cm;
Each layer is generously sprayed with both solutions alternately using a plaster brush or a homemade sprinkler;
The next layer is poured and sprayed after the previous one has completely dried.

As for sawdust, a reliable guarantee against fermentation even in a damp attic is provided by backfilling with a base of slabs and clay, see below. Unfortunately, it is not possible to describe why here; the point is the unique properties of clay and the outer layers of coniferous wood. Insulation of this type is known in houses more than 100 years old. But, once again, unfortunately, it is difficult to find fatty clay in nature; it is a valuable mineral raw material, and not cheap on sale.

How to insulate a ceiling?

From the attic

The main methods of insulating the ceiling from the outside, i.e. from the attic, shown in Fig. It is preferable, of course, to make do with inter-beam insulation. In this case, please note that if the ceiling slopes sufficiently massive, you need to make the vapor barrier flaps on ceiling beams or enclose them entirely with a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier can then be film. If the suspended ceiling is thin, then jumps in its thermal resistance at the locations of the beams can be harmful. Then the foil vapor barrier is attached from the inside between the beams and the ceiling cladding.

With full insulation, i.e. up to the calculated power of the insulation, the scheme on the right will be more labor-intensive, but also more effective, respectively. rice sections: the inter-beam layer is laid in rolls or slabs, and the above-beam layer is made of square mats spaced apart, i.e. with displaced seams.

Note: Please also pay attention to the section in Fig. bottom right. This is the same slab insulation with clay, suitable for all types of insulation without the use of synthetic membranes.

From the inside

No attic

In private households, except as described above additional insulation, most often it is necessary to insulate roofless buildings from the inside “on the fly”, in the middle of the cold season. Let’s say they started building, built a utility block or makeshift shelter for a while, and then it turned out that they would have to spend the winter in it. Or the chickens have stopped laying eggs, the pig has become sad for some reason and is getting thinner before our eyes. There's nothing you can do about it; you'll have to insulate the roof.

Typical design warm roof shown on the left in Fig. Turning the insulation down is necessary to avoid freezing of the corners. This system has 2 units, A and B (ventilated ridge and counter-batten, or counter-bar), which seem to be impossible to do without dismantling the roof. However, the “bypass” diagram for node A is shown in Fig. top right. It is taken into account here that, firstly, in light buildings from individual developers, as a rule, there are no ridge beams, and a ridge “beam” is made by knocking down 2 boards in an L-shape. Ventilation holes are drilled 2-3 per span between the rafters. If the entire roof is only roofing felt, then there is nothing to do to prevent rain from dripping through the ventilation; you need to climb up and install some kind of ridge purlin with a gap, at least from bent galvanized strips.

What to do with node B is shown below right. It uses the fact that in a small self-built crossbar ( load-bearing structure) roofs are not made of beams. The role of embedded rafter legs longitudinal beams The crossbars are placed on the sheathing boards under the roof, and the spans between the rafters are free from bottom to top. In the figure, presumably, everything is clear: the under-roof membrane will have to be applied in pieces, and the required insulation capacity will be obtained, if necessary, with the help of backing beams.

In an apartment building

It is only possible to insulate ceilings in an apartment building yourself from the inside. Firstly, residents do not have the right to carry out work on the roof or common attic; Secondly, why do we pay contributions for major repairs? The roof is cold - you need to require the operator to insulate it; doesn’t want to - all legal rights are on the side of the tenants.

However, while there is fuss and litigation, you can do something with your own hands to insulate the ceiling in the apartment. Typical scheme insulation of the ceiling from the inside over concrete is shown on the left in Fig. Its main disadvantage is not at all the expensive, corroding, and not always as effective as manufacturers claim, special metal profiles for insulation with thermal seals-thermal washers. Not like thermal washers for installing polycarbonate! Both can be replaced with wooden sheathing. And not the special materials for the thermal gap around the perimeter and the complexity of working with them.

The main thing is that 0.4-0.5 m is subtracted from the height of the room. This in no way adds habitability to the modern apartments, but what about the Khrushchev buildings with 2.5 m ceilings that are most in need of insulation?

But even here there is an acceptable way out of the situation. Let us take into account, firstly, that in stone houses heat escapes through the ceiling mainly in the corners. Anyone who hasn’t seen how the ceilings in single-family apartments become damp and moldy, take my word for it. Secondly, block and monolithic houses very resistant to fire. Achieving a widespread fire in them can only be done through deliberate malicious influence. Therefore, it is possible to use granulated foam in a small volume.

Insulation scheme concrete ceiling, worked out back in the Brezhnevka era, when drywall went on sale, is given on the right in Fig. In this way, only approx. is subtracted from the ceiling height. 5 cm. Filling the pockets of the corners using it is quite difficult, which is why this technology did not really catch on back then: the corners are sheathed first along the short sides of the room and filled with insulation from the sides. Then the corners of the long sides are sheathed and insulation is poured into the spaces between the sheathing slats. The foam and horizontal lining are installed last.

Now let’s remember once again about ecowool. Will it be difficult to get it into your pockets? At least through temporary technological hatches? The question is rhetorical.

Special cases

Attic

The insulation of attics is actually the same special topic as the insulation of roofs. Here it is appropriate to mention it again in connection with ecowool. Look at what's on the left in the picture, filled with red. In private houses, it is either impossible to get into this attic without dismantling the roof, or it is impossible to work there. And you can blow in ecowool instead of the recommended roll insulation without any special difficulties.

Garage and bathhouse

Garage roofs are often mounted on steel I-beams or channels. Reliable, the price is not too bad, but what to do with such thermal bridges if you need to insulate? The insulation diagram for a garage ceiling on steel beams is shown on the left in Fig. Its peculiarity is that the insulation boards are laid in at least 2 layers, staggered horizontally and vertically. In this way, when insulating with mineral wool, it is possible to reduce heat loss to acceptable levels. If you use ecowool, then the cavities between the beams and between the sewing and the beams are simply blown out with it. Folgoizol is not needed then; kraft paper on the inside along the ceiling lining is enough.

With a bathhouse, the matter is simpler: the features of its design, without which a bathhouse is not a bathhouse, and the thermal/humidity operating conditions make it possible to develop a universal scheme for insulating the bathhouse ceiling, which is shown in Fig. on right. Feature: if the insulation is mineral wool, then it will certainly be basalt, the other will not withstand thermal loads and periodic dampening. If you insulate a bathhouse with ecowool, then the peculiarity is that you need to prepare the mass with the addition of glue.

Floors in private houses are usually made of wood: beams are laid, and then they are lined with boards from below. If the house does not have a heated attic, the ceiling in the building must be insulated. And when installing equipment in the attic of a living space, it won’t hurt to lay something over the ceiling. After all, most, among other things, can also serve as excellent sound insulators.

Material selection

So, let's see how to insulate a house. And first, let's figure out what type of insulator is best to choose in a given case. Typically, floors in country buildings are insulated:

mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene;
sawdust;
expanded clay.

Advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool

This heat insulator is currently the most popular and is used most often in private homes. Its main advantages include:

Low cost.
Easy to install.
High heat-retaining qualities.
Insulating the ceiling in a house with this material can also improve the soundproofing properties of the floors.
Durability.
Non-flammability.

The disadvantages of this material include:

The ability to accumulate moisture and lose some of its thermal insulation qualities.
Not too high a degree of environmental cleanliness.

Expanded polystyrene

This material is also an excellent answer to the question of how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house. It is a lightweight, environmentally friendly board. Although they are made using a slightly different technology, their appearance is very similar to the well-known polystyrene foam. They differ from the latter in that they practically do not crumble and retain heat much better. Expanded polystyrene lasts much longer than polystyrene foam. Unlike mineral wool, this material is not at all afraid of moisture. Its main advantage over basalt insulator is its smaller thickness with the same heat-retaining qualities.

Its disadvantages include only its rather high cost and flammability. In addition, it is strictly not recommended to use this material if there are rodents in the house. Mice simply love to make passages and holes in foamy materials.

Expanded clay

This material is also very often used to insulate a wooden ceiling in a private house. Expanded clay is a special porous granule made from clay. The material is very inexpensive and retains heat well. Its main advantage is that it can last much longer than any other insulation. Not afraid of expanded clay and water. In addition, it is very durable and fire resistant.

Sawdust

The main advantages of this bulk material absolute environmental friendliness and low weight are considered. Insulating the ceiling with sawdust is very inexpensive. At sawmills they sell this material for literally pennies, and sometimes even give it away for free. The disadvantages of sawdust include, first of all, a very high risk of fire. In addition, they may dry out or begin to rot. Like polystyrene foam, they can harbor mice or rats.

Insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house with mineral wool

When insulating the ceiling from the attic side, this material is laid as follows:

In a building under construction, the ceiling itself, made from edged boards, is placed on the beams below. If the house is old and there are already floors in the attic, a cellular frame should be installed on them.
A vapor barrier is laid between the beams. You can use either polyethylene or foil material. The latter option is more expensive, but performs its function much better. In addition, foil can reflect heat back into the room. Therefore, such materials, in addition to everything else, are also capable of additionally retaining heat. A vapor barrier is installed on existing attic floors in old houses before installing the frame under the slabs.
At the next stage, the mineral wool itself is installed. They put her to shame. That is, the step between the beams should be slightly less than the width of the slabs. This allows you to arrange as much as possible effective insulation. You need to start laying the wool from the corner farthest from the door. To make it comfortable to walk on the floor, it is worth lining the attic with strips of plywood.
A waterproofing layer is laid on top of the mineral wool if the attic is not intended to be insulated in the future. If the roof is waterproofed with film, this step can be skipped.
Next, the finishing floor of the attic is filled.

In exactly the same way, insulation of a wooden ceiling in a brick or poured concrete one is carried out. If there is a chimney in the attic, the slabs are placed on it to a height of 40-50 cm and secured.

Installation from inside

Next, let's see how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house with mineral wool from the living room side. Most often, the material in this case is installed simultaneously with the pre-assembled metal frame for drywall. The distance between its constituent profiles is usually 40 cm. Mineral wool slabs have a width of 50-120 cm. Therefore, installation is carried out using the “accordion” method. The cotton wool is simply slipped under the frame elements. In this case, the plates are installed close to each other. When performing this work, you should try not to wrinkle the material. Otherwise, the cotton wool will lose some of its performance characteristics.

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation from the inside continues with the installation of a vapor barrier film. Next, the gypsum boards themselves are installed on the frame. In the event that suspended ceilings are not installed, the work is performed using a slightly different technology:

The ceiling is pre-covered vapor barrier film. If there is no attic above, it is better to use a waterproofing membrane.
Next he gets stuffed wooden sheathing. For its manufacture, bars with a cross section of 30*30 - 40*40 mm are used. In this case, the step between the frame elements is made so that the slabs lie sideways.
At the next stage, mineral wool is inserted between the bars. If the sheathing was installed correctly, the slabs will hold up well just like that. However, in order to completely eliminate the risk of falling out, it is worth additionally securing them with special mushroom dowels.
Next, it is stretched onto the frame. You need to nail it with slats at least three centimeters thick. This will provide an additional ventilation layer.
At the next stage, the ceiling is usually sheathed with plywood and covered with ceiling tiles.

Installation of polystyrene foam

Now let's figure out how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house using another modern material. Typically, expanded polystyrene is laid in the attic in the same way as mineral wool - between beams or in the sheathing. However, it is entirely possible to install it directly on the attic floors, if any, that is, without installing a frame. In this case, the base must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and leveled. Then the work is done like this:

Check to see if the floor boards have rotted or come loose.
Lay a layer of vapor barrier. Fastening is done using staplers.
From the corner farthest from the door, begin laying out the expanded polystyrene slabs. At the same time, make sure that the joints do not meet in a cross. That is, they perform staggered laying.
The joints between the plates are sealed with polyurethane foam and additionally taped with construction tape.
Since slabs are a rather fragile material, a board is either stuffed on top of them or poured cement screed 3-4 cm. In the first case, before laying polystyrene foam on the floors, you will need to fill several logs.

Using polystyrene foam from the inside

Insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house in this case is carried out as follows:

The ceiling is thoroughly cleaned of dirt, old plaster(if available), etc.
After this it should be primed.
Next, polystyrene foam boards are glued to the ceiling using foam glue. In this case, the material should also be additionally secured with “fungi”.
A reinforcing mesh is glued on top of the slabs.
Next, the ceiling is plastered.

Of course, you can install polystyrene foam in the same way as mineral wool, that is, in the sheathing. In this case, the ceiling is sheathed with plywood, clapboard or edged boards at the final stage.

We insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with expanded clay

In this case, the space between the floor beams is pre-covered with roofing felt. You can also use very thick plastic film. must cover the beams themselves as well. The seams on the roofing felt are glued bitumen mastic, on film - with tape. Along the perimeter of the attic, the waterproofing material must be raised to the height of the future backfill layer.

Next, the ceiling itself is insulated with expanded clay. Sometimes roofing felt is pre-coated clay mortar. The thickness of the expanded clay layer is usually 12-16 cm. It is advisable to use a material that has different fractions of granules. In this case, the insulating layer will be denser and more even. Sometimes crushed foam is added to expanded clay to enhance the thermal insulation effect.

The heat insulator is covered with a waterproofing film on top. Next is arranged concrete screed 4-5 cm thick. 20 days after pouring you can start finishing floor.

Insulation with sawdust

For such material, cement is usually used as a binder. In order to prevent the appearance of rodents, you can also add a little lime to the sawdust. Rotting is prevented by using borax.

As with expanded clay insulation, the attic floors in this case are first covered with roofing felt or plastic film. You can also use sheet glassine.

The sawdust itself has the following requirements:

They must be aged for at least a year.
The material must be dry.
It is not allowed to insulate the ceiling with sawdust, rotten or infested insects.
It is best to use sawdust of the middle fraction.

After the attic floors have been prepared and waterproofed, they begin to actually prepare the insulating solution itself. To do this, for ten buckets of sawdust, take one bucket of cement and half a bucket of lime. In addition, dilute a glass of borax in a bucket of water and spray this solution from a watering can over the mixture. The amount of water depends on the moisture level of the sawdust. Usually you have to add 5-10 liters.

The chimney must be laid before installing this type of insulation. The wiring in the attic in this case is pulled in special metal pipes. It is not necessary to make a screed over the sawdust insulation. The frozen mixture itself will be quite strong.

So, you now know how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house. If the work will be done from the inside, use thinner polystyrene foam. When insulating from the attic side, it is better to use mineral wool. You can save money by using expanded clay or sawdust.

The house where the whole family gathers in the evenings should always be warm, regardless of the weather outside. Therefore, the question of how to insulate the ceiling in a private house is always relevant.

After all, many owners of private households note that, despite high-quality wall insulation and replacement of window and door units, it is difficult to maintain optimal comfortable temperature. The cause of such heat loss, as a rule, is ceiling structures. There are ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house, which even non-professional builders can implement.

The ceiling needs to be insulated for a number of reasons. Briefly they can be formulated as follows:

an unfinished stage of construction, when it is planned to place an unheated attic under the roof. In such cases, it is more advisable to immediately supplement the ceiling with thermal insulation. This approach will, after some time, eliminate the need to insulate the ceiling of a private house;
in the house before heating season lived, and in winter shortcomings were discovered (by simple tactile contact with the surface of the ceilings);
the residential building has a second floor, on which people live non-permanently, and accordingly, the premises located there are heated from time to time.

General rules

Thermal insulation of all structures in private houses requires a lot of labor and time. However, this event is mandatory. Thanks to insulation, you can not only regulate temperature regime in residential premises, but also to minimize heating costs.

When deciding how to insulate the ceiling in a private house, you should take into account the basic parameters of the materials:

environmental safety of insulation;
the insulation should not burst into flames when struck by a spark or short circuit;
good material should not interfere with the free circulation of steam;
It is necessary to protect not only the material, but also the insulated area itself from moisture.

Strict adherence to these rules will help determine what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a private home.

The answer to the question of what is the best way to insulate the ceiling of a private house is several options for very effective and safe solutions:

expanded clay This material is absolutely resistant to fire because it is made from clay. Environmentally safe, not affected by moisture. Thermal insulation qualities are also excellent;
mineral wool. Some time ago this material was quite popular. Every owner of a private household sought to insulate his house with mineral wool. It retains heat well, making living spaces truly warm. But at the same time, this material is very afraid of moisture - under its influence it loses all its qualities;
ecowool. It is based on cellulose. Environmental safety is high, as are the thermal insulation properties;
Styrofoam. It is of a polymer nature, resistant to fire and moisture, very easy to install;
penoizol. The porous structure allows this material to be used for a very long time.

Installation method and choice of material

When choosing a material, you should determine how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands.

This procedure can be carried out using two methods:

in the house from the inside;
outside, directly in the attic.

Each of these methods reduces heat loss equally. The difference between them lies in the ease of installation and the materials used.

For indoor work, it is better to use materials that allow surfaces to “breathe”. If you are going to insulate the ceiling from the attic side of the house, then a vapor-proof material is more suitable.

For any private house, built or in the process of construction, the optimal method of thermal insulation ceiling structures and floors - the one that involves working outside.

If the attic will not be used for permanent residence, this option will protect all structures from freezing and increase the service life of the roof. On a positive note The method is also that the height of the premises does not change. There are no strict requirements for the strength of the material used. Therefore, you can limit yourself to mineral wool mats, the cost of which is very affordable.

Let's insulate ourselves from the inside

Most often, insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house is carried out simultaneously with such work as installation of suspended or suspended ceilings. Optimal material for thermal insulation - mineral wool.

Stretch and suspended ceilings are quite popular. They allow you to create home comfort. When installing them, use required element- box In the first case, it is made from metal profiles, and in the second, timber is used. The insulation is placed in the free space between the racks. To securely fix mineral wool, experienced builders recommend using tile adhesive. Its advantage is quick setting and reliable fixation of two surfaces.

It is important to remember that during installation, mineral wool should lie easily, without compaction. Otherwise, air gaps will not form and, accordingly, the thermal insulation qualities will decrease.

We insulate ourselves outside

Reducing heat loss can be achieved not only by carrying out work indoors. If the owner of a private household is looking for how to properly insulate the ceiling in situations where the interior decoration of the ceiling structure has already been completed, it is better to give preference to the insulation method from the attic, which answers the question: how to insulate the ceiling in a private house from the outside?

Any type of insulation is suitable for the job. Important note: mineral wool must be laid on top of the vapor barrier layer. As is known, this material is not resistant to moisture, which is formed as a result of heating rooms, operating equipment, cooking and breathing of residents. A film with vapor barrier properties will not allow the mineral wool to become damp, which will reduce its thermal insulation qualities.

Mineral wool, as when working inside a living space, is placed in the gaps of a pre-prepared timber frame. If polystyrene foam is installed, it is imperative to seal the joints with special foam.

What is not suitable for insulation

When deciding how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands, you should remember that there is a material that, despite the large number positive properties, not recommended to use – ecowool. Ecowool is based on cellulose, due to which it does not pose a threat to human health. Elasticity and elasticity protect ecowool from shrinkage, and the presence of a porous structure allows the structure to “breathe”. The material will never become a home for rodents or bacteria. If a fire breaks out, it will not burn.

However, it should be remembered that installation is accompanied by the release of a large amount of dust, and the main component is boric acid. It is also not recommended to use ecowool in rooms where there are sources of heat or open fire.

Laying ecowool on your own without involving specialists is impossible. The process requires a lot of time and special equipment.

The disadvantages of sawdust include:

high degree of shrinkage;
easy flammability.

To reduce the likelihood of a fire, complex preparatory work is required. To insulate ceiling structures in a private home, you can use various materials. To carry out work without the involvement of specialists, pay attention to bulk insulation materials, as well as those that are available in the form of mats. Insulation with their help allows you to reduce the cost of heating residential premises.

Typically, the ceiling and roof consume up to forty percent of the total heat exchange of a house. Ceiling insulation is a pressing issue for many families. This type of work requires certain knowledge and skills of a builder. As with any construction process, it has its own characteristics and difficulties. Nowadays, thanks to modern technologies, any novice builder and ordinary person will be able to do such work.

Peculiarities

The so-called cold roof is built according to slightly different principles. During its construction, the usual types of layering of materials are not used. A similar type exists in those houses where the room under the roof is not residential and is not heated in winter.

Due to this roof structure, it is lightweight and has minimal construction costs. The installation itself is much easier than when building a roof with warm design. Previously, it was believed that this was an ideal and inexpensive option when building a simple country house.

It is important to know that due to the lack of heating in the upper room, the air there acts as a buffer, which helps to avoid unnecessary heat losses.

Due to the increase in heating tariffs, many people began to think about insulating their ceilings. A large amount of heat evaporates from the house due to the presence of cracks in the ceilings. This is due to poor quality construction and poor building materials.

Insulation of the ceiling and the presence of a cold roof is a pressing problem for residents of the top floors. This is especially true for old housing stock. This problem is also relevant for owners who live in a private house. The attic is neutral territory, and the management company may not allow a layer of insulation to be placed there. Therefore, the option remains to insulate the ceiling in your own apartment.

The peculiarity of this solution is that several useful centimeters from the ceiling height will be lost. But due to the capabilities of drywall and various lighting fixtures you can get updated and fashionable interior. To keep warm and not pay too much for heating, you should think about insulating the ceiling.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in a private house has its own characteristics. It is customary to start work from the second or outermost floor. This could be the attic, top floor or attic areas. Laying a special material with thermal insulation properties occurs on top of the ceiling or in empty cracks and helps retain heat in the room.

There will be no need to think about additional ceiling finishing. The craftsman will not need to install insulation on the ceiling itself. Thanks to the placement of insulation in the ceiling, condensation will not form.

You need to know that you cannot insulate the roof slope. This will contribute to the melting of snow and the formation of icicles. In addition, an insulated attic is already an attic according to building standards. It is also important to know about this feature: the next layer directed out of the room should be more vapor permeable than the previous one.

Another feature is that it is impossible to drain the condensate. This rule also applies to sloped ceilings. There are drainage walls. This is a very expensive and difficult pleasure for owners of a private home. The cool and hot sides of the ceiling in an apartment building can change places. It depends on the time of year.

It is worth knowing that modern ceiling insulation technology is focused on the absence of condensation in the material itself.

And if it does form, then it should have the opportunity to come out.

Another feature is the process of laying on a cold floor. When using loose material, be sure to leave gaps. Another gap remains between the insulator and the insulation layer. This technique is a safety net in case of condensation.

In a private house or cottage, it is possible to insulate the ceiling of the next floor using a special material that is placed on top of the ceiling or in existing voids. The features of the overlap depend on its type. It can be made of wood or concrete.

To put insulation on beams, which are a wooden floor, you should use lightweight and backfill materials. Materials in roll form are also suitable. In order to insulate concrete, it is worth using not very loose mats and dense materials.

If the issue of insulation was not resolved at the construction stage or we are talking about top floor residential building, then it is quite justified to start insulating it as needed.

If we are talking about insulating the roof of a private house made of wood, then in this case there are a number of advantages. The insulation will create additional sound insulation. This is especially true during times of heavy rain and wind outside. In hot weather, the insulation will block the entry of hot air from the street. Due to this, a pleasant climate will remain in the room.

In winter, an insulated roof will help significantly save energy and will prevent heat from escaping from the room to the street.

You can insulate the ceiling in a private house made of wood yourself. It is important to be well prepared. You need to know the properties of different materials, their pros and cons, master specific technology for ceiling insulation, and study video instructions.

It has become fashionable to insulate attics and turn them into attics. A special feature of such a room is the ventilation area criteria, which are located between the room and external structure. The size of such ventilation usually ranges from fifteen to twenty centimeters. But a regular roof has an attic with dormer windows. Therefore, to create a warm climate there, it is important to take care of sufficient air circulation.

When heating good ventilation reduces the degree of heating of the roof and prevents the formation of ice blocks on the roof.

For residents of multi-storey buildings or private houses in the absence of the possibility of insulating the roof with top floor you can consider another option. We are talking about insulation from below. This type of work is possible if reconstruction of premises with good overlap in the attic, when there is no way to get into the attic space. This is especially true for residents apartment buildings and intractable managers. In this case, the structure will be installed based on a frame made of wooden slats or metal elements. The insulation can be in the form of slabs.

There is a big disadvantage with this type of insulation. As mentioned earlier, due to this technique, the height of the room and precious centimeters are lost.

In addition, such work requires more experience and time to complete.

It must be remembered that good and durable insulation will be achieved with an integrated approach. In addition, in a room with a cold roof, it is additionally necessary to insulate door and window openings and, without fail, the floor. Using a thermal imager, you can easily calculate the areas through which the greatest amount of heat escapes. They are usually red and yellow.

Materials

Currently, construction stores offer a large selection of insulation materials. To choose necessary options, it is worth carefully studying the presented samples and their main characteristics. They must meet all the necessary requirements.

There are several nuances on the basis of which you should choose materials. It is important to know that products with low thermal conductivity are best suited for this. The material must be moisture resistant. This important criterion when choosing insulation for the outside and with a rather worn-out roof.

Insulation and other materials must last quite a long time, so they must be durable. Don't forget about environmental safety. For work you need to choose non-flammable or low-flammable products.

For a private home best insulation- This is expanded clay.

Often shavings or sawdust are used, stone or mineral wool, ecowool, polystyrene foam, penoplex, and aerated concrete are often used. Polyurethane foam is a sprayable type of material.

To insulate the roof of a wooden house, it is worth using certain types of insulation. The material must be selected strictly in accordance with the type of flooring. It comes in two types - concrete or wood. For concrete it is worth using heavier insulation materials. They come in the form of a mat or slab. As a rule, they are of the backfill type.

Builders often use insulation materials of natural origin. These include sawdust, hay, pine needles, last year's leaves, algae or reeds. However, it is worth remembering that all natural materials, except sawdust, are subject to severe rotting.

It is important to approach the issue of choosing material extremely responsibly.

Which to choose?

Insulation in the form of shavings or sawdust is considered the most antique material. In areas where woodworking production is highly developed, this material is very cheap. It is perfect for creating a layer of insulation on top of a wooden floor. A significant disadvantage of this type of insulation is its high flammability.

There are three types of mineral wool in the construction industry: stone, slag and glass. Stone wool is obtained from rocks with the addition of clay, limestone and formaldehyde.

A significant disadvantage of this material is that it contains harmful substances. When heated, they turn into phenols and enter the air. Balsat wool is considered safer; it contains much less harmful substances.

Slag wool is obtained from the use of blast furnace slag and other waste from the metallurgical industry. Due to its average thermal conductivity and ability to absorb large amounts of moisture, it is not suitable for insulating a cold ceiling.

Glass wool is the most suitable material, and it is also extremely low cost.

The obvious disadvantage is that if particles of the material get on the skin or mucous membranes of a person, it can cause harm to health. In this case, experts advise using gloves and special protective equipment when working with this type of insulation.

A clear advantage of wool as home insulation is its ease of transportation and installation. This is possible due to its low weight. Cotton wool has low flammability and high temperatures can only sinter. For the owners country houses and cottages, it is important to know that glass wool is not the most favorite material for insects, various rodents and mold to live in.

Polyethylene foam is foamed PVC, on which a layer of foil is applied. The manufacturer produces this insulation in rolls up to one meter wide. You can also insulate the ceiling using polystyrene foam. But it is important to know that in this case additional installation will be required. suspended structures. In a private home, it is also good to use polystyrene foam. It fits tightly and, due to its good density, is often used in the attic as a base for further putty.

Expanded clay is also very popular. It is better if it is made of light alloy clay. Thereby light material and quite porous structure. The production of modern insulation allows you to choose foam products. Many builders consider isover as insulation. This material is similar in many characteristics to mineral wool. But it is more elastic and resistant to stress.

Another worthy option is penofol. Its distinctive feature is its ability to reflect thermal radiation. This material is well suited as insulation inside and outside the house. With this method it is quite possible to insulate the entire country house, and not just the ceiling.

Don't forget about polyurethane foam. It is a convenient and good quality material that meets all the necessary characteristics as insulation. It is a polyurethane foam that only needs to be sprayed on to get the desired result. It not only insulates, but also helps to soundproof the room.

For residents apartment building It's best to get permission from management company and insulate the attic floor.

An excellent option in this case would be to use expanded clay. This material is fire resistant and perfectly protects against moisture.

Vapor-permeable insulation is often used inside the apartment. In the process repair work The master uses special materials that fill the entire ceiling area. After this you can start finishing works using drywall.

Application area

As noted earlier, materials can be used both indoors and above the ceiling. Sawdust and clay are ideal for eliminating defects in wooden floors. The floor is worked with clay, then sprinkled with a thin layer of sand and sawdust is scattered on top.

To prevent mice from getting into the sawdust, you should use carbide mixed with slaked lime. In an old house made of timber, the height of such insulation can reach thirty centimeters. When using the attic for economic purposes, it is enough to lay wooden boards on top of such insulation.

Experienced craftsmen use a special film with waterproofing.

It allows particles of steam to escape from living spaces. For a residential building, you can use a mixture of clay and sawdust. An excellent option for a log or frame house.

In any case, people will walk on the concrete floor of an apartment building. This will happen during repair or maintenance work. In this case, you should choose dense foam or mineral wool. It is necessary to put plywood or board on the insulation.

You can use these two types of insulation and a less dense layer. Due to this, the material will be much cheaper. In this case, you need to make a wooden sheathing on the slab. It is better if it is on stands, because the mounted height can reach twenty centimeters or more. Insulation is laid under such sheathing and a gap is created for ventilation.

For insulation reinforced concrete floor in a brick house you can use polystyrene foam. In this case not we're talking about on the release of toxic substances during fire. Residential apartments are separated from it by a special ceiling that does not burn.

If there is a wooden floor, it is not advisable to use polystyrene foam.

This also applies to fire safety standards. The most common type of flooring between floors is wood. In this case, you should opt for ecowool. This type of material is placed in bulk; it can fill any space.

Ecowool tiles are laid in several layers. It is important that the seams of the layers are overlapped. After insulation, the attic turns into an attic, but this applies to private houses and cottages.

Recently, the issue of insulation in the basement has become relevant.

IN modern houses such a room can be equipped into a real living room. This could be an office, a gym or a workshop. In any case, this room can only be used if the temperature in it is comfortable for a person. Insulating the basement is the right step towards preserving energy and heat throughout the house. Even if the basement is unsuitable for equipping useful space in it, it still needs to be insulated.

This can be done internally, externally or in a combined way. The choice of thermal insulation materials is quite wide. The main thing is to choose suitable option for specific purposes.

Work technology

It is very important that the roof of the house is warm. This is not cheap, but it saves your budget in the future. After all, energy costs are significantly reduced.

When working on ceiling insulation with expanded clay great importance has the weight of the material itself. Due to the weight of expanded clay, it cannot be used in the presence of wood floors. Due to the heaviness of the material, the decking may completely collapse. Expanded clay should be used if available concrete floors. The insulation scheme for the ceiling and roof may vary slightly.

Preparing the attic begins with clearing the entire area of clutter and debris.

If there is old insulation, it is best to remove it too. It can create unnecessary load on the floors.

The next step is to carry out thorough isolation. This is necessary so that in the spring you do not have to remove the consequences of flooding. A special membrane is used for this. It is placed between the joists so that about four centimeters are screwed onto the sides of the joists.

The insulator must be pressed very tightly against the joists. It is usually fixed with a stapler or glue.

The wooden floor must have oxygen access on at least two sides.

After this, laying of the first layer of insulation begins. It is placed up to the joist level. Then the insulation is covered with a membrane, which has a low oxygen permeability. Then the wood flooring is laid. Special gaps are left for ventilation.

It is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the insulation.

In this case, it is worth considering the waterproofing layer. Often builders use material about fifty millimeters thick.

When carrying out insulation using polyurethane foam, you will need to call a specialist. The spraying process occurs under high pressure. Due to this, all the cracks are filled. The thickness of the layer is from ten to twelve centimeters.

Mineral wool as insulation has different thicknesses. Indicators depend on the volume of work. The layer of wool used as insulation can range from two to twenty centimeters.

Polyethylene foam is polyethylene foam.

The thickness of this material ranges from one millimeter to two centimeters. Polystyrene foam is laid in slabs. The thickness of one slab varies from two to ten centimeters. This happens because the material needs to be overlapped.

When insulating an attic, various materials are used for insulation. But the average ranges from fifteen to twenty centimeters. The layer of clay and straw is approximately ten centimeters. To ensure that everything is straight, you should use a special ruler or stick.

Thermal insulation options

There are only two options for insulating a cold ceiling and roof - either the ceiling is insulated inside the room, or the ceiling is insulated outside. Both of these options will perfectly help preserve heat and electricity in the house. Each of these options has its own set necessary materials and installation technology.

Materials for thermal insulation are divided into two classes - vapor-permeable and vapor-tight. These readings indicate the ability to absorb moisture. It is for these reasons that one or another type of material is chosen for performing work on insulating a ceiling or roof. For external insulation work, vapor-tight material is used, and for internal work, vapor-permeable material is used.

Most often used inside mineral insulation. The work can be done using rolled glass wool. When combined with a plasterboard ceiling, you will get an excellent buffer for hot air. The insulation process is carried out at the time of installation of the suspended ceiling.

It will be correct if first a frame is made from profiles, in which the insulation will then be placed.

If the work is carried out with your own hands and on your own, do not forget about safety precautions.

Glass wool is a rather dangerous material. The methods for attaching glass wool to the ceiling are quite simple. The material is glued with tile adhesive. It is important that the glue dries as quickly as possible. After all the insulation has dried, it is covered with plasterboard.

It is worth remembering that cotton wool cannot be compacted or pressed.

Due to these features, it is attached with glue and not with screws. The entire thermal effect of mineral wool lies in the abundant amount of interlayers that are placed inside the wool.

During the work process, you should pay attention to the installation of lighting equipment. Spotlights tend to heat up quickly and when interacting with mineral wool they instantly fail. This occurs due to the accumulation of heat and the lack of any ventilation.

In this case, it is better to use chandeliers or sconces as lighting fixtures.

If the question is about spotlights is worth it in principle, that is, a way out of this situation. There is no thermal insulation layer placed around the planned lamp.

Another option would be a larger ceiling space. This is necessary so that there is between the material and the drywall. air bag, into which the light bulbs are then mounted.

The least expensive option will be external insulation. In this case, it is worth carefully examining the condition of the ceilings. If they are old, they may simply not withstand the screed and collapse. If the attic space is not planned to be used, then the option of external insulation will be ideal.

Here it is important to follow all the rules and work technology. Otherwise, the ceiling and corners will freeze in winter.

When working independently, it is important to remember the features and properties of each building material.

Externally, attic insulation is considered the most economical. There will be no need to install a suspended ceiling to hide the insulation. A significant advantage of this method of insulation is the possibility of later making an attic in this room. This is suitable for aerated concrete or wooden houses.

Many builders claim that external insulation is in many ways similar to floor insulation, but with a slightly different technique. After clearing the attic space, it is carefully measured around the perimeter.

After the foam sheets are laid, all joints must be covered with polyurethane foam.

If the home owners do not plan to use the attic for living space, then the insulation work can be stopped at this point. If a small warehouse or room is placed in the attic in the future, additional work will be required. The insulation is covered with a layer of waterproofing material, reinforced, and then filled with screed.

It is possible to use mineral wool. After installation, it is recommended to cover it with a special film. True, when such thermal insulation is made, then in the future only wooden floors can be laid on it.

Insulating the ceiling is a very important process. Up to a quarter of all heat in the house escapes through this space. The process itself can be carried out using a dry or wet method. The second option involves the presence of a wet mass that adheres to the surface and forms a layer of sound insulation.

The attic space is protected from the street only by the roof. Therefore, such a room needs careful insulation.

It is advisable to check the moisture content of the material in summer and winter in several places. If an increase in humidity is not noted inside the insulation, then there is no need to worry about the quality of the work.

The easiest way to check is to inspect the roof in winter.

If the snow piles in the center of the roof or along the perimeter have melted a little, and large icicles are also hanging, then heat loss is obvious.

Everything that should have remained inside the house goes outside.

If moisture appears, then it is necessary to increase the air flow in the gap for ventilation. This is done by connecting to a common air exchange system and bringing it to the roof. The second method is to blow the room with outside air. In such a situation, the presence of drafts in the attic is a very useful thing.

From the above it follows that the process of insulating the ceiling is quite simple. Both a novice master and an amateur builder can do this. The main thing is to lay the insulation correctly, bring lumber, make a counter-batten, put insulation and cover it all with a board. But still, some materials are better applied using special tools. To do this, you still have to turn to professionals.

When laying glass wool, you should contact a professional craftsman.

A mass of material poured by hand retains heat much worse. Such savings on the work of specialists will subsequently cost the owner of the premises much more.

In the case where the distance between different elements there is more overlap, it is recommended to use mineral wool roll type. Depending on the manufacturer, it is usually one meter wide.

It is important to know that insulation attic room is a smart decision. This will help reduce heat in the room in the summer and keep it warm in the winter.

Lovers natural materials should know several features. If there is no sawdust, you can use straw. In this situation, water is added to the clay until a wet mass is formed. Then wet straw is added to the composition and everything is thoroughly mixed with hands or feet.

When using sawdust, the composition must be left to dry for at least two weeks. At this time, there should be good ventilation in the room.

It is important to remember fire safety precautions. The insulation material must meet the standards. Its technical characteristics should include holding fire for a quarter of an hour in a private building and one and a half hours in an apartment building.