How to lay metal tiles on the roof. Installation of metal tiles with your own hands. How to properly install cornice strips and lower valleys

Metal tiles are a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, bituminous shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent specifications make it an excellent option for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, let’s look at how to install metal tiles yourself: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.

A tile roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of best options for home decoration. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:

• light weight (4-6 kg/m²), which ensures very little load on the roof;

It is distinguished by an affordable price, long service life and expressive appearance.

• simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
• a large assortment color solutions;
• the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
• the coating is equipped with stiffening ribs, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface can withstand a load of 200 kg/m², even if 0.5 mm thick sheets were used;
• the material is extremely temperature resistant. It is not afraid of any changes, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.

There is practically no need to talk about the disadvantages of metal tiles, with the possible exception of higher level noise on days when it rains. But this can also be dealt with if you first lay a layer of glass wool.

Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

Before you begin considering the installation process of this roofing material, you need to decide exactly how the material should be used.

Looking at photos of roofs on which metal tiles look attractive is far from the best method in in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Let's look at what the buyer needs to know.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:

• different types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
• special passage units for installing pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
• elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - walking bridges, ladders, snow guards;
• internal and external valleys;
• other necessary elements are wall profiles, pediments, metal tile eaves, the installation of which is an obligatory part of the roofing arrangement.

Important! The presence of all of the listed elements among the seller’s offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to studying the markings, which must be present on each certified material. Typically, production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the level of quality of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied on top of the sheet.

So, here is what information you can glean by reading the information provided on the back of the metal tile sheet:

• presence of polymers;
• how much zinc is per 1 m² of sheet;
• production date and warranty period for the use of the material;
• manufacturer's name;
• sheet thickness.

During the visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and back sides of the sheet, as well as the presence of all required markings.

Important! If we're talking about about the material purchased from a large manufacturer, the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.

Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work

Considering the fact that the price of installing metal tiles has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much professional installation of metal tiles costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and can increase depending on the complexity.

The process of installing a metal tile roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.

Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations

The first thing that needs to be done if a decision has been made to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, avoid unnecessary costs.

Let's start by clarifying some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly a metal tile roof is constructed does not arise. If you look at a roof that has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.

There is such a thing as a “model”. This name refers to sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. Sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10 can be found on sale.

Helpful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets standard sizes, you can consider the option of individually manufacturing metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost noticeably more, but this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.

In the process of choosing the appropriate sheet size, you need to be guided by the fact that after installation the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. It is quite easy to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.

When purchasing metal tiles, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements that are included in the kit and allow for proper installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which must have the same color as the tiles.

In the process of purchasing metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.

Important! 11 degrees is minimum slope, in which installation of metal tiles is permissible.

Materials and tools for laying metal tiles with your own hands

In order to install metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care in advance of having some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:

• screwdriver;
• electric drill;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• yardstick;
• hammer;
• marker;
• mounting tape.

It is also worth taking care of the presence of a stepladder and means intended for personal protection face and hands (glasses, gloves).

As for Supplies, which will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tiles, then this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aeroroller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and 2.5x10 cm boards. Of course, fasteners will also be required elements - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.

Helpful advice! To give the coating an attractive appearance, decorative overlays should be used.

How to attach metal tiles: stages of preparatory work

The low weight of metal tiles allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work to be carried out before proceeding to installation. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made from slats is quite suitable.

The procedure is extremely simple - based on the pitch of the selected metal tile, slats are placed on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that during the process of attaching the roofing material you do not have to screw screws into the void. Another important factor to consider when installing the sheathing is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place rafters directly above the windows.

Related article:

Thermal insulation during installation of a metal roof

When it comes to installing a roof made of metal tiles, the thermal insulation material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss and also to reduce the noise level produced by raindrops hitting the surface. To do this, a vapor barrier material is first laid on the rafters, and then a layer of thermal insulation. It is important that the thickness of the layer does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached to the top, fixing it with wooden blocks directly to the rafters.

Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sagging there will be no problems with water drainage.

This “pie” is the maximum efficient system thermal insulation of the roof, which is allowed by the metal tile installation technology. As for the choice thermal insulation material, then there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.

Installation of a metal tile roof: basic operating rules

Before you begin work directly related to laying metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will allow you to avoid common mistakes and do everything necessary with the highest possible quality:

1. There are two ways to lay sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each subsequent sheet must be laid overlapping the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must be overlapped.
2. There is no need to attach each sheet completely at once. Before screwing the metal tiles, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and, if necessary, trim them. For final fastening, use one self-tapping screw, which passes through all the sheets.
3. The service life of the entire roof greatly depends on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, due attention should be paid to the choice of self-tapping screws. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
4. In those places where several sheets were fastened with one fastener at once, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.

Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements

Certain rules also exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:

• the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the ridge will fit onto the pediment;
• for the cornice strip it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the bottom bar of the sheathing, to which it is attached with nails;
• It is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material between the metal tile sheet and the roofing strip;
• for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Typically, 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
• if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aerial roller between the ridge strip and the material itself. This will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the ridge;

• The ridge must be fixed to the planks, which are located at the end of the entire structure. In this case, calculations must be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
• It is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip line under metal tiles, and strictly follow all instructions.

Helpful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose inclination angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worth carrying out calculations in advance that will allow you to determine whether it is possible to install a specific model of ridge strip in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, you may even need complete replacement the entire roof covering.

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge strip can be slightly adjusted. That is, it can not be bent or straightened in order to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.

Installation of a valley when roofing with metal tiles

Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected - valley. For each such element, an additional board must be attached. In this case, fastening must begin from the bottom, gradually moving upward and not forgetting about the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, be sure to cut off the bottom strip. Then follows the flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.

There remains a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the fastening should be located 25 cm from the valley axis. If you follow this technology, then eventually the sheet, at the fastening point, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.

As for the installation of the valley below, it must begin before laying the roofing material. This is important to ensure that water flows directly into the additional element in the future.

Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, the roof will most likely leak.

In order to cover those places where the cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:

• installation must be done from the bottom up;
• a sealant between the lining and the tile is not needed;
• the overlays must be overlapped by at least 10 cm;
• fastening elements (in this case self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.

Very often you have to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, consider the case when installing dormer window. In such a situation, it is necessary to lay a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the metal tile sheet. The cornice cut is covered with a plank. And sealing material must be laid along the walls.

How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope

If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal tiles, then the installation of two additional bars will be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the “ridge”. After this, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the sheathing begins. The sheathing pitch for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tiles only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and aligning the first sheet along the eaves strip.

Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the “ridge” should not exceed 10 cm.

In order to install the ridge assemblies, you need to align the ridge strips relative to the angle of the “ridge”. If you use a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the existing corners, and for a semicircular ridge special plugs are provided. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.

The ridge strip must be located strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. It's not too much difficult task, if the slope angles are the same. If they have different sizes, then the task becomes significantly more complicated. As auxiliary material They use bright polyurethane foam, which allows you to determine the quality of the connection to the slopes.

Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"

A separate type of metal tile that is undoubtedly worthy of attention is Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:

• extremely high level of material resistance to both ultraviolet radiation and other external factors, such as moisture and temperature;
• due to the layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout its entire service life;
• the material is extremely durable and hard, so it can withstand heavy loads;
• multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
• due to its low weight (one square meter material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the rafter system is significantly reduced;
• using this option is a great savings, since there is no need to take a large step between fasteners. Initially, the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles provide for 35-centimeter steps.

This material has only two disadvantages - a large amount of residue after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.

As for the features that you need to know about before laying Montrerey metal tiles, the following aspects play a role here:

• For different models of this material, it is necessary to prepare different lathing. So, for Standard or Super metal tiles, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
• in the most difficult places of the roof (usually these are the internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous sheathing;
• on the junction strips, for the chimney exit, you need to install internal aprons;
• the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
• Before installing the material, it is necessary to remove the protective coating, since this may be impossible to do in the future.

It is strictly forbidden to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the profile becoming wrinkled. Also, under no circumstances should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.

Interesting! Cascade metal tiles also look great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.

How to properly care for a metal roof covering

Having studied step by step instructions installation of metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to last for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

The top layer of metal tiles is polymer material, which is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure to external factors: precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to deteriorate, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the service life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:

• remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
• If we are talking about eliminating more complex stains, then it is permissible to use cleaning agents, but only those intended for polymer surfaces. Use aggressive chemicals it is strictly prohibited, as they destroy the protective layer and render the material unusable;
• cleaning of gutters is carried out using a stream of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the eaves;
• It is possible and necessary to clear snow, but this should only be done using tools that are not capable of causing damage to the delicate coating.

Subject to these simple but extremely important rules, metal roofing can serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.

Common mistakes when installing a metal tile roof with your own hands

Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such carelessness can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of materials and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:

• installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
• It is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of a wave, as this may cause deformation;
• Moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
• when moving along the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
• You can only handle the material while wearing gloves.

Taking these into account complex rules, and also by acting in accordance with the technology of laying metal tiles, you can independently make a beautiful and reliable roof.

Installation of snow guards on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties

A high level of safety is one of the main requirements for roofing made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special structures are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure safe snow removal from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help maintain the original shape of the structure and prevent it from deforming under the weight of icy snow. And considering that its weight in some cases can exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.

Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow puts on the roof surface should be thought out at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.

It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. This depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:

Q = G×s

In this case, Q is the load exerted by the snow, G is the mass of snow on the flat surface of the roof, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of the roof: > 25° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is more than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation will definitely not linger on the surface.

In order to determine the G index, you need to refer to a special table that provides information regarding snow cover for each region of the country.

Installation of tubular snow guards on metal tiles: installation rules

As a rule, a pipe is used as a basis for snow retention, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixation is made in the places where the roof and load-bearing wall connect.

It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the eaves strip for metal tiles, as this may lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a slope whose length is quite large, then the installation of snow retainers on metal tiles must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.

The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to installing such a system if the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow guard is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.

Lattice snow guards for metal roofing: how to attach correctly

Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems preferentially choose this option. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and “royal”, although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the lattice.

The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainer is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to retaining snow, but also in summer. After all, it is during the warm season that all kinds of repair work are most often carried out.

Corner snow retainers for metal tiles

Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will suit your existing metal tiles, since the range of color options is extremely large.

To fix the corner snow guards on the roof of a metal roof, screws and ordinary metal corners are used. Fastening is carried out on the upper wave of the sheet.

These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. Metal tiles are perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with selection and fixation.

Installation of a roof window in metal tiles

It is believed that installing roof windows is not a task for beginners, and it is best to contact specialists who have adequate experience in this field. But this does not mean that it is impossible to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well proceed without any problems.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where rafter step very small, they install two small windows in adjacent niches.

The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are installed. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation entering the house.

Of course, you have to make some changes to the process of installing the sheathing under the metal tiles, and pay special attention to the issue of installing the ridge of the metal tiles if a roof window is planned. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.

Installation of metal tiles: video instructions for beginners

For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to attach metal tiles to a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as recommendations from specialists, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve well for many years.

Sheet length from 550 to 8000 mm
Weight - 4.75 kg/m2

2. Sheathing, hydro- and vapor barrier

As lathing for metal tiles profiles made of galvanized steel produced by INSI (PSh-28-0.7, PSh-28-1.0, PSh-61-1.5) or wood (boards 25x100, 32x100 or timber 50x50) are used, which are attached to rafters from bottom to top (from eaves to ridge) with a pitch corresponding to the pitch of the metal tiles. The vapor barrier film is installed on the side of the warm room. Waterproofing is mounted on rafter structures.

Superdiffusion membranes are laid on the insulation without a gap, paying attention to the location of the side that should be adjacent to the insulation. Anti-condensation films must be installed with a gap between the film and the insulation. It is necessary to strictly follow the film manufacturer’s recommendations for its use and installation method. When installing a cold attic, it is possible not to install waterproofing, as long as proper ventilation of the under-roof space is guaranteed.

Roofing films are laid along the rafters, from bottom to top across the slope, parallel to the cornice. The joint of the film is made along the width of the slope, with an overlap of at least 100 mm. Along the length of the panel, the films are joined on the rafters with an overlap of 100 mm. The permissible sag of the film between the rafters is 2 cm. Maximum distance when installing films between rafter structures 1.2 m. When installing using wooden sheathing, an anti-condensation film is installed under the counter-batten to improve ventilation between the tile sheet and the film.

3. Cornice

The cornice is attached before installation metal tile sheets along the bottom edge of the slope. If an organized drainage system is provided, gutter holders are installed before installing the cornice. In this case, the cornice must be mounted so that its end ends in the first third of the gutter from the wall.

The cornice is aligned along the bottom edge of the slope using laces. Attaches to sheathing using self-drilling flat head screws. The joint of the cornices is carried out with an overlap of 50-100 mm.

Hemming the roof eaves can be done in a variety of ways. For filing they use: corrugated sheets, metal siding, façade panel. There are two options for arranging materials: along or perpendicular to the wall.

4. Installation of metal tile sheets

Styling metal tile sheets produce from right to left. Installation begins with the installation of the first two sheets. First metal tile sheet It is attached with a self-tapping screw in the lower right corner so that the lower edge of the sheet is along the edge of the sheathing. Second metal tile sheet is placed on top, closing the capillary groove. The edges of the sheets are aligned with the cornice and the plane of the slope gable. After alignment, the sheets are secured. Next, proceed to the installation of subsequent metal tile sheets.

If the length of the slope is more than 6 m, it is recommended to make it composite, due to the inconvenience of transporting and installing the sheets. When installing a composite slope, metal tile sheets are mounted from bottom to top, from right to left, according to the diagram. During this installation, it is important to align the capillary grooves of the lower and upper sheets. Otherwise, a gap will form between sheets of metal tiles. All sheets are laid with an overlap along a length of 200 mm. For proper organization overlap, the length of the bottom sheet of metal tiles must satisfy the formula:

Ln.l.=0.2+b*Nsh
b - tile pitch size; Nш - number of tile steps along the slope

For example, sheets with a length of 3.0 are subject to this formula; 3.4; 3.8; 4.2; 4.6; 5.0 m.

For installation of metal tiles roofing screws 4.8x35 or 4.8x20 mm are used. Metal tile sheets are fastened in the lower deflection of the profile (Fig. 12), screws are located on the sheets in a checkerboard pattern, near the edge of the slope (cornice, ridge, pediment, valley) in every wave. The longitudinal joint of the sheets is fastened with screws or rivets. In cases where the roof slope is less than 14°, it is necessary to seal the longitudinal and transverse joints of the sheets.

Fastening metal tiles to the upper deflection of the wave is strictly prohibited!

Fastening metal tiles with nails or self-tapping screws without sealing gaskets is strictly prohibited!

Hammering roofing screws with a hammer is strictly prohibited!

By metal tiles you need to walk carefully, in shoes with soft soles and step only into the lower deflection of the wave in the areas of the sheathing.

Self-drilling screw with sealing gasket is installed in the deflection waves of metal tiles under the transverse wave (at the bottom of the wave), perpendicular to the sheets. The screw is tightened until the gasket is straightened into a horizontal line. Excessive twisting leads to bending of the gasket and its separation from the plane of the sheet.

5. Endova

The sheathing at the joints of the slopes is made continuous at a distance of 400...500 mm from the middle. Lower valley attached to the sheathing using clamps. Metal tile sheets laid in such a way that at least 100 mm remains from the edge of the sheet to the bottom of the valley.

Upper valley is installed after laying the sheets of metal tiles and is fastened with roofing screws every 200...300 mm to the top of the wave of metal tiles. Self-tapping screws should not violate the integrity of the lower valley.

6. Pediment

Gable is attached in such a way as to cover the upper deflection of the metal tile wave. In Fig. Figure 13 shows the lining of the roof overhang protruding from the gable side wall profile S-13 located across the roof slope. C-13, in this case, is ordered in advance or cut on site according to the size of the stem.

7. Horse

The ridge elements are joined with an overlap of 100 mm. The ridge is attached with roofing screws 4.8 x 80 mm to the sheathing, to the top of every second wave. The flat ridge is attached with roofing screws 4.8 x 80 to the sheathing or 4.8 x 35 to sheets of metal tiles, to the top of every second wave.

A polyurethane foam seal is placed between the ridge and the metal tile. The ends of the shaped ridge are closed with a decorative cap.

To ventilate the under-roof space, a ridge fan is used, which is attached to the ridge with roofing screws. The joint is treated with sealant.

8. Wall profile

Where the roof meets the wall, pipes and dormer windows, a wall profile is installed. The profile is applied to sheets of metal tiles and attached to the wall.

Brick protruding from the roof rectangular pipes framed in the following way:

Step 1 - Installing the lower pipe apron

First you need to prepare the junction of the lower apron to the side surfaces of the pipe. To do this, using the apron elements as a template, mark cutting lines on the pipe. Then, using a coal cutting machine (grinder), a groove is made in the brick walls of the pipe. Having cleared the groove and the surface of the sheathing from brick dust, they begin the installation of the elements of the lower apron, having previously trimmed each element and bent it along the slope of the roof. When installing the apron, the bent upper edge is inserted into the groove, the vertical wall is pressed tightly against the surface of the pipe, and in this position the element is fixed with roofing screws with a sealing gasket to the sheathing. The first element is mounted to the bottom edge of the pipe, then the two side ones and finally the element to the top edge. The overlap of the upper elements on the lower ones must be at least 150 mm. After fixing all the elements to the sheathing, the edge of the apron inserted into the groove is coated silicone sealant. Attention! For better adhesion, the groove needs to be washed with water.

step 2 - Installation of the bottom sheet from the pipe to the cornice

At this stage, a flat (galvanized or painted) sheet is installed. The length of the sheet must correspond to the distance from the bottom edge of the pipe to the cornice or the nearest valley, the width is not less than the width of the lower element of the apron (including side bends). One edge of the sheet is placed under the lower element of the apron, and the other is brought out from above, onto the cornice or valley. After fixing the flat sheet to the sheathing, bends are made on its sides using hand tools.

step 3 - Laying sheets of metal tiles along the bottom and sides of the pipe

step 4 - Installing the wall profile

After installing the sheets of metal tiles around the pipe, finishing the pipe with a wall profile begins. The installation procedure is similar to the elements of the lower apron. First, a wall profile is installed to the bottom edge of the pipe, with preliminary cutting to its width, according to the drawing. Fastening to the pipe is carried out using dowel-nails, and the profile is attached to the metal tile using roofing screws in the upper part of the wave.

step 5 - Installing a wall profile on the sides of the pipe

It is necessary to process two wall profiles according to the lateral dimension of the pipe and install them on the side faces.

step 6 - Installing the wall profile on the top edge of the pipe

Install the wall profile on the upper edge of the pipe, while cutting the vertical parts protruding beyond the contour of the pipe from below and bending them onto the side edges of the pipe, securing them with dowel nails.

Step 7 - Installing the top sheet of metal tiles

Install the top sheet of metal tiles on top of the wall profiles and sheets of metal tiles laid earlier, leaving a gap of at least 100 mm between the lower edge of the metal tile sheet and the pipe. Place a polyurethane foam seal under the metal tiles. Place sealant in the small gap created at the junction of the wall profile and the top and side sheets of metal tiles.

The wall profile is also used for internal roof fractures. A cornice element is used on the external fracture of the roof.

If you plan to cover the pipe with a profiled sheet, then after framing the pipe, a frame from a hat profile is mounted, a profiled sheet is attached to it, and the corners are formed with an outer corner 50x50.

The chimney is attached to the pipe with dowels and nails before installing the corrugated sheet.

Metal tile installation video

9. Drainage system

The drainage system is used in industrial, residential and public buildings for the organized drainage of water from roofs.

A drainage system with a pipe diameter of 150mm will allow you to drain rainwater with 117 square meters of slope. The number of pipes on building facades will be significantly reduced. Gutter holders are mounted at a distance of no further than 0.7 m, pipe holders - no further than 2 m from each other.

A drainage system with a pipe diameter of 100 mm will allow rainwater to be drained from 52 square meters of slope. Gutter holders are mounted at a distance of no further than 0.9 m from each other (calculated distance - 0.75 m), pipe holders - no further than 3 m from each other (for example, 3 holders are required for a pipe 5 m long, for a pipe 3 m long two are enough.

If there is a threat of freezing of the drainage system, it is recommended to use heating systems for gutters and pipes.

With a catchment area of ​​less than 30 sq.m per drainpipe, gutters can be installed with a zero slope, with larger area In the catchment area, the slope of the gutters can be up to 2%.

10. Installation of the drainage system:

step 1 - Calculation of the number of gutter holders.

Divide the total length of the gutter by the selected holder spacing (no more than 900 mm, recommended gutter holder spacing is 750 mm) (see Fig. 26). The resulting number of segments +1 is the number of gutter holders.

step 2 -Marking for gutter holders.

On the bottom sheathing, mark the installation locations of the gutter holders with the spacing selected in the previous step.

step 3 -Selecting the gutter slope.

Select the amount of gutter lowering (h) based on the aesthetic perception of the gutter line. The gutter line should go down smoothly, without causing a visual sensation of strong curvature of the edge of the slope or the facing of the eaves overhang. Recommended slope (i) gutter is 1%, that is, from 1 cm to 1 m. The difference in the heights of the upper and lower points of the gutter (h) can be calculated as:

h= L x i
where L is the length of the gutter;
i - gutter slope

Step 4 - Determining where the gutter holders bend.

Number the holders from the beginning of the gutter to the downspout. Mark the bend location on the first holder, thus determining the initial (upper) position of the gutter. When marking, it must be taken into account that the edge of the gutter is 2 -2.5 cm lower relative to the roof slope line (see Fig. 27).

Fold the holders in ascending order of numbers and mark the folding points, as shown in Fig. 28.

Step 5 - Attaching the gutter holders.

Aligning the bend with the edge of the sheathing, attach the gutter holders to the sheathing with self-drilling galvanized screws 4.8x22 with a flat head, 3 each. per holder. When using 50x50 beams as sheathing, a double beam must be installed to securely fasten the holders.

Step 6 - Creating a Slope

To create a slope, bend the first and last holder and pull the cord between them. Bend the remaining holders so that they touch the cord (Fig. 29).

step 7 - Installation of the pipe

In the gutter, at a distance of 150 mm from the bottom edge, cut a hole with a diameter of 100 mm for the pipe. Insert the pipe into the hole (Fig. 30). Place the front edge of the pipe under the outer bend of the gutter. Bend the flange of the pipe onto the rear edge of the gutter and secure with two 4.2x16 self-tapping screws.

Step 8 - Installing the Gutter

Install gutter plugs at the ends (Fig. 31).

Step 9 - Installing the Gutter.

Insert the gutter into the holders, placing the rear edge of the gutter into the holder's protrusion.

step 10 -Gutter connection.

Install the gutter connecting element at the junction of the gutters (Fig. 32).

Step 11 - Installation of the corner elbow.

Use a corner elbow to create a transition to the wall of the building. The length of the connecting pipe is determined by location (Fig. 33).

Step 12 - Installation of the pipe.

The pipe is secured to the wall using pipe holders. The pipe is measured, if necessary extended at the installation site of the pipe holder, and secured with a lock (Fig. 34).

Step 13 - Installation of the drain elbow.

The drain elbow completes the drainpipe and serves to drain water from the foundation of the building. The bottom of the drain elbow should be located at a height of 300 mm from the blind area of ​​the building (Fig. 35).

11. Snow guard and roof fencing

For safe movement on the roof, roof railings are installed at the eaves level, starting from the second line of sheathing.

The fence is made depending on the roof slope and the type of tiles. Fastening is carried out to the sheathing profile through a sheet of metal tiles and a rubber sealing gasket in the place where the wave deflects using self-drilling galvanized bolts 5.5x25 mm for metal sheathing and 5.5x60 mm for wooden sheathing. It is prohibited to attach a roof fence to one sheet of metal tile. The fencing sections are bolted to each other.

To prevent large masses of snow from falling off, snow guards are installed. The design of the snow retainer consists of brackets and pipes. The brackets are installed in the deflection of the wave and are attached through the metal tile and rubber sealing gasket to the roof sheathing. At the installation sites for fastening the bracket, an additional sheathing profile is pre-installed at a distance of 120 mm (along the axes of the sheathing profiles). Snow guards are installed above the roof railing. In the absence of a roof fence, snow retainers are installed no lower than the third row of sheathing. When the length of the slope is more than 10 meters, it is recommended to install two rows of snow guards. In areas with a large amount of snowfall, it is necessary to install a bracket rod. The snow retainer rod is attached at one end to the bracket, at the other end to another sheathing profile through a sealing gasket and a sheet of metal tiles (see Fig. 38).

It is prohibited to attach the snow retention bracket to one sheet of metal tile!

The installation step of snow retention brackets depends on the snow area of ​​construction, roof structure, fastening element. Recommendations have been developed for calculating the installation pitch of brackets. The calculation was made based on the use of self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4.8 mm. The immersion depth of the screws is shown in Fig. 39.

snow guards are available in formatHTMLthis instruction.

12. Accessories

Weather vanes, decorative spiers, and chimneys are installed on the roof as accessories. Installation of all accessories is carried out in accordance with SNiP standards.

For arranging roof exits for antennas, masts and ventilation pipes round section with a diameter of up to 330 mm (with an external surface temperature of up to 130°), Master Flash roofing seals are used.

13. Processing of wooden structures

Wooden structures used for roofing require antiseptic and fire retardant (fireproof) treatment. Processing can be carried out both before construction of structures (processing of individual boards and bars) and after (processing of rafters and sheathing). Treatment is carried out using various methods (immersion in a container with a solution, brush application, spray application.

14. Tools

1. Screwdriver with 6 mm hex bit.
2. Electric nibbler or nibbler.
3. Manual roofing shears.
4. Mallets (wooden, rubber).
5. Hacksaw, jigsaw, hammer (used when constructing rafters and sheathing).
6. Angle grinder (“grinder”), hammer drill, drill, gun for pressing out sealant (used when installing a wall profile).
7. Level, level, plumb line, measuring tools and devices.

15. Attention!

Use as ridge or valley seals polyurethane foam is strictly prohibited!

All products produced by the INSI facade and roofing plant are designed for use on pitched roofs according to these installation instructions. The INSI plant is not responsible for damages or losses that may arise when using INSI products to perform functions that are not inherent to them.

Most developers prefer to cover the roof with metal tiles. The technology for laying metal tiles on the roof is quite simple, so you can install this material yourself. If there is no free time, specialists are hired to perform roofing work.

But it's still much cheaper to do roofing on one's own. To do this, you just need to carefully study the step-by-step installation instructions, which are often included when purchasing roofing material.

In this article

Tools used for roofing work

For self-installation metal tiles you will need tools:

• Ladder
• Wooden ladder (laid directly on the roof)
• Roulette
• Reik
• Chalk, marker, pencil (for marking)
• Hammer
• Strong rope
• Metal scissors
• Boards for lifting profile sheets onto the roof
• Screwdriver (battery-powered if possible)

Calculation of the required amount of roofing material

The laying scheme for metal tiles involves an accurate calculation of the amount of building material to cover the roof. Metal tile sheets are asymmetrical; calculating their quantity has its own characteristics. You cannot replace one sheet with another.

The manufacturer indicates the dimensions of the metal tile sheet horizontally and vertically, but in addition, effective sheet dimensions are provided for this material, the calculation of which takes into account the overlap of the sheets, as a result of which the effective overlap area is determined. You also need to take into account the asymmetry of the roof.

Roof preparation

The technology for laying metal tiles on the roof involves preliminary preparation. In order to lay metal tiles correctly, it is necessary to lath the roof, install gutters for water drainage, and eaves strips. It is first recommended to check the roof for evenness, namely: the horizontal position of the ridge, the horizontal length of the roof slopes. If the roof is skewed, it must be leveled.

Counter-lattice

A counter-lattice is erected on the roof: bars (50 mm cross-section) are packed onto the rafter boards.

Waterproofing material

Next, the waterproofing material is laid: the film is fixed not stretched, with allowances (preferably one complete sheet, but if this is not possible, then an overlap, which should be at least 15 cm). Waterproofing material made from bitumen must not be used. After some time it will sag on the bars of the counter-lattice. As a result, condensation will collect.

Lathing

After laying the waterproofing layer from boards with a cross-section of 3.2x10 cm, the sheathing is installed with a pitch equal to the wave pitch of the metal profile, which the manufacturer indicates in the instructions. The bottom sheathing board should be approximately 15 mm higher than the others.

The parallelism of fastening the board to the cornice is checked using a plumb line (this important point, since this board will be placed under the metal tile step). Lathing done carelessly will lead to many problems in the future, for example, sheets of material will not fit together, poor-quality fastening and other nuances.

If the wave pitch of the profile sheet is 30 mm, the distance between the first two bars of the sheathing should be 23 mm, and between the rest - 35 mm. The wave pitch is 35 mm, then the distances between the bars will be 28 mm, 35 mm, respectively. The wave pitch is 40 mm, the distances between the bars are 33 mm, 40 mm.

Leveling roof slopes

Also, when preparing the roof for laying metal tiles, it is worth paying special attention to the chimney, internal corners. In these areas, continuous sheathing is installed, if necessary, additional aprons are installed.

Structural elements are treated with antiseptic agents before installation. First, you need to lift the roofing material onto the roof (the metal tiles are lifted one sheet at a time). For this, logs and strong belts, specially designed for lifting work, can be used (lifting technology is selected depending on the height of the building).

1. If the length of the covering sheets is similar to the length of the roofing slope, then the first sheet of covering is aligned along the roofing end, the eaves. To fasten the profile, special self-tapping screws with a gasket are used (for metal sheathing self-tapping screws are taken - 0.48x2 cm, for wood - 0.48x28 cm). The length of the screws is determined by the manufacturer of the metal tile and the type of profile used.
2. In areas where the profile adjoins the sheathing, fastening is carried out in a checkerboard pattern using self-tapping screws, the consumption of which will be approximately up to 8 pieces per m².
3. When the installation of tile sheets is carried out from left to right, the edge of the laid profile sheet is placed under the edge of the previous one. Installation of tile sheets is carried out from right to left - the profiled sheet must be laid overlapping the previous one.
4. The first sheet of material should extend 5 cm beyond the edge of the roof eaves; it is temporarily attached to the sheathing with a self-tapping screw near the eaves, the edge of the ridge.
5. Next, the next profiled sheet is laid. The sheets must be joined together as tightly and precisely as possible with a longitudinal side overlap without distortions or gaps. To connect them, 0.48x2 cm self-tapping screws are used; the fastening itself is carried out through the top of the wave from the roofing eaves to the ridge.
6. In a similar way, 3-4 profile sheets are connected and after that you can remove the temporary self-tapping screw, which was originally used to attach the first sheet of metal tiles. The entire block is aligned with the roof eaves.
7. On both sides of the laid block, the final measurement of the removal is carried out. If the alignment is correct, all dimensions must match, then the sheet must and can be secured to the sheathing using a self-tapping screw. The remaining profile sheets are attached to the sheathing and connected at the joints.
8. After completion of construction work, it is necessary to remove all shavings that were formed as a result of cutting building materials and drilling holes. A soft brush is used for this. Damaged areas are tinted with special paint.
9. If the slope sloping roof has several rows, then the installation of metal tiles is carried out using a different method: the sheets are built up in a certain order, which is determined by grooves for water drainage located on the longitudinal edges of the material. When using this laying technology, the sheets are joined along the roof slope with an overlap of 15 cm or more.
10. The transverse profile is fastened to the end of the transverse wave using 0.48x2 cm self-tapping screws intended for metal surfaces.
11. On the hip, metal tiles are installed from the top point, going down evenly on both sides. The installation diagram is similar to the previously described diagram.
12. The capillary groove of the profile is overlapped by the previous sheet of metal tile.

Fixing the roof ridge

Ventilation must be provided in the attic, so the profiled sheets should not meet under the ridge strip. The ridge is attached with self-tapping screws to the roofing through the wave.

The overlap of the planks should be 10 cm or more. Arrangement of a ridge with a semicircular configuration hip roof performed using special linings and plugs.

Installation of cornice strips

The roof eaves strip made of metal tiles provides the boards with protection from the effects of precipitation and, accordingly, prevents their destruction. Installation of planks with an overlap of 5 cm, in increments of 30 cm. Galvanized nails are used for fastening.

Installation of the valley

The planks for the valley are mounted at the level of the sheathing. Between them you need to leave a two-centimeter ventilation gap. The cornice strip is cut off and mounted on the corners of the valley.

After this, the lower valley profile is installed, which is cut to the shape of the eaves strip. Markings of guides are applied along the valley strip, with a distance between them of at least 20 cm.

After the installation of the roofing is completed, a decorative overlay is attached to the metal tile along the valley strip in increments of 0.5 m.

Installation of the end strip

This element of the roofing structure is secured with self-tapping screws to the end board, with a step of 1 meter, and to the lathing (step is 40-80 cm).

Installation of seal

The sealing material is attached immediately before laying the ridge strip. It is glued towards the middle at a distance of 0.25 m from the edge of the ridge.

Ridge installation

It is attached with self-tapping screws to the metal profile through three waves of the profile. Minimum overlap- 10 cm.

Arrangement of snow guards

To increase the service life of water drains, it is planned to install additional elements - snow retainers. They are placed in areas where snow shedding from the roof is undesirable. The snow retainer bar is fixed under the second transverse pattern of the profiled sheet. The lower edge of the snow guard strip is attached to the metal tile, the supporting corner is attached to the sheathing.

Conclusion

Using metal tile sheets to cover the roof makes it possible to create a strong, reliable roof for any building with a fairly long service life. This building material is lightweight and easy to carry out. installation work, so with its help you can cover the roof of your own house yourself, without the involvement of professionals.

Don't forget to remove protective film immediately after installation, if any.

During installation, you should carefully walk on metal tiles in soft shoes (or shoes with soft soles). When walking on profiled sheets, you should step on the sheathing areas. When walking along a sheet, step into the deflection of the wave, across the fold of the profile.

General rules for fastening metal tiles (Fig. 62):

• the sheet is attached to the deflection of the wave in the places adjacent to the sheathing;
• the lower sheets are attached to the initial lath above the step through the wave;
• the sheets are attached to the remaining slats as close as possible to the step from below;
• on the side of the end board, sheets are attached to each wave;
• all sheets should be pulled to each lath;
• in places where sheets overlap, to secure the vertical overlap, the sheets are fastened together with short self-tapping screws (19 mm) at the decline of the wave.

rice. 62. Rules for fastening metal tiles

In other words, the screws must be tightened tightly, but without completely crushing the sealing gasket. Along the perimeter of the slope, fasteners are placed in the deflection of each wave. Next, fastening is carried out to each lath with a staggered arrangement of screws. Being as close as possible to the wave step makes them invisible, since they are in the shadow. It is better to screw self-tapping screws into the overlap of metal tiles at an angle, this way the sheets are better pulled together. The average consumption of roofing screws is 6–8 pieces per square meter and 3 pieces per linear meter accessories on each side.

The use of non-galvanized screws, self-tapping screws without a washer with EPDM rubber leads to the penetration of moisture into the under-roof space, corrosion of profiled sheets and a decrease in fastening strength. Incorrect fastening self-tapping screws - to loosening of the fastening, loose fit sheets to each other and the formation of a noticeable seam.

Accessories are attached to each transverse wave with a step of 350 mm or to the longitudinal wave through one wave in the upper ridge. To tighten self-tapping screws, it is best to use a screwdriver or drill in low-speed chuck rotation mode.

To cut metal tiles, use a hacksaw or jigsaw with a metal blade. Cutting with hand scissors or cutting electric scissors is allowed. Do not use angle grinders with an abrasive wheel (grinder) - the coating loses its anti-corrosion properties due to burning through the coating and metal shavings adhering to the surface.

The use of a grinder with an abrasive wheel for cutting profiled products with a polymer coating leads to burning of the galvanized layer at the cut site, as a result of which the corrosion rate at the cut increases and peeling of the polymer coating occurs, corrosion of metal particles adhering to the sheet after cutting, and blackening of the polymer.

Use spray cans to touch up cuts, abrasions, and damage to the polymer coating that were formed during the installation process.

Between the sheets of metal tiles in places where they overlap during rain, a capillary effect can occur - when moisture seeps in, rising between the tightly pressed sheets above the level of water flow. To prevent this effect from occurring, a capillary groove is made on all sheets of metal tiles, which ensures free drainage of water that has fallen under the sheet or water formed on inner surface sheet as a result of condensation of water vapor. Metal tiles are produced with both double and single capillary grooves, both with left and with right side. The capillary groove of each sheet must be covered by the subsequent sheet.

When laying in multiple rows, up to four sheets with a thickness of 0.4–0.5 mm are joined. Superimposed on each other in one row, they receive an ever-increasing displacement, up to 3 cm on a ten-meter cornice. Therefore, it is advisable to lay the metal tiles with a slight turn counterclockwise (clockwise for sheets with a capillary groove on the right), trying to ensure that the left (right) the corners of the sheets in one row were on the same straight line. The amount of sheet displacement when turning is 2 mm. If the sheets are laid in long panels, but in one row (without joints along the height of the slope), then no rotation of the sheets is necessary.

Sheets are laid after placing the first sheet both to the left and to the right. The main criterion for choosing a direction is ease of installation. They start from the side where there are no bevels, cuts, or the need to trim the sheet, and lay it towards the junction of another slope, that is, to an oblique ridge or to the valley between the slopes.

During installation, the sheet covers one wave of the previous sheet, closing the capillary groove. When laying with a sheet inserted to close the capillary groove, the edge of the next sheet is placed under the wave of the previous one. This makes installation a little easier, since the sheet is fixed by another sheet, preventing the last sheet from slipping, however, with this installation option there is a high probability of damaging the coating.

No matter how complex the geometry of the slope may be, the sheets are aligned strictly horizontally along the eaves line with the overhang recommended by the tile manufacturer. General rule: metal tiles are assembled into a block of 2–4 sheets (the sheets are fastened together with short screws) and attached to the sheathing as high as possible with one screw. This makes it possible to rotate the entire block relative to this self-tapping screw and align the sheets along the cornice and the side edge of the slope.

rice. 63. Sequence of laying sheets of metal tiles in one row

When laying sheets in one row (Fig. 63), place the first sheet, align it along the cornice and the end of the slope, temporarily attach it with one screw at the ridge (in the center of the sheet), then place the second sheet on the side, align it relative to the first, fasten the sheets together. If it seems that the sheets do not “join”, you should first lift the sheet above the other, and then, slightly tilting the sheet and moving from bottom to top, lay fold after fold and fasten with a screw along the top of the wave under each transverse fold. In this way, lay three or four sheets, fastening them together, align the block of sheets along the line of the eaves (don’t forget about the overhang) and fasten the sheets to the sheathing. Do not attach the last sheet in a row until you have laid out and aligned the next block of sheets.

When installing sheets in several rows (Fig. 64), lay the first sheet from right to left, align along the cornice and along the end, then lay the second sheet (on top of the first), secure it temporarily with one self-tapping screw at the ridge in the center of the sheet, align the sheets and fasten them between with self-tapping screws. The junction of the upper and bottom sheets fixed with screws into the top of the wave through the wave. Place the third sheet to the left of the first, staple the sheets together, then place the fourth sheet on top of the third. The sheets are connected to each other with short self-tapping screws in the upper part of the overlap so that they are not screwed to the sheathing and can be rotated together relative to the self-tapping screw holding the sheet at the roof ridge. Align the entire block along the eaves and end, and then finally attach the sheets to the sheathing. After laying and securing the first block of four sheets, the next block is laid out and secured to it.

rice. 64. Sequence of laying sheets of metal tiles in several rows (two options)

Another installation option is possible. Lay the first sheet, align it along the cornice and the end of the slope, temporarily attach it with one screw in the upper part (in the center of the sheet), then place the second sheet on the side, align it relative to the first, fasten the sheets together. Place the third sheet on top of the first and fasten the sheets together. Align the entire block with the cornice and the end of the slope, turning it if necessary around the self-tapping screw screwed into the first sheet. After leveling, secure the entire block and install the next sheets of metal tiles to it.

When aligning a block of 3-4 sheets that are stapled together, you may need to rotate them slightly. Due to the fact that the block is held on by one screw, it is not recommended to connect more than four sheets into a block. In addition, a large number of sheets will make the block too heavy not only for the self-tapping screw, but also for those working.

When laying sheets on a triangular slope (Fig. 65), before starting installation, it is necessary to mark the center of the slope and draw an axis through it. Then mark the same axis on the sheet and combine the axes on the slope and sheet. Secure the sheet with one screw at the ridge. From there, continue installation in both directions according to the principles described in the previous options.

rice. 65. Sequence of laying sheets of metal tiles on hip roofs

On triangular slopes, in valleys, on oblique ridges, cutting of sheets is necessary. To conveniently mark the sheets, you can build a so-called “devil”. You need to take four boards, lay two of them parallel to each other and fasten them crosswise with the remaining two boards. The mount should be hinged, not rigid. Distance between inside the left board and the outer side of the right board are made equal to the working width of the roofing sheet - 1100 mm. To use the tool, the sheet to be cut is placed on an already mounted one, the “devil” is laid on one side on the ridge of the roof or in the valley, and a cutting line is drawn on the other. When marking the cutting line, the transverse “dash” boards must be positioned strictly horizontally.

The sheets on the valleys are marked in the same way. After installing the whole sheet, we place the sheet that needs to be cut on top of it. We install the “devil” by turning the hinged boards. Inner side vertical board should lie on the valley, and the cross boards should be installed horizontally. If these conditions are met, draw a marking line on a loose sheet. The marking line is drawn along the outside of another vertical board that does not lie on the valley. We remove the sheet, cut it according to the markings and place it next to the fixed sheet. Installation of the following sheets is carried out in the same way.

Installation of through exits to the roof should be carried out using passage elements that ensure the tightness of the passages. For these purposes, special passage elements, for example, Vilpe, are optimally suited; they are mounted in accordance with the instructions supplied with them. The places where they pass through the hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier must be sealed with adhesive tape, and the joints between the elements must be filled with silicone sealant. Tapes and sealant are usually included with the pass-through kits.

The design of protruding dormer windows (short valleys) is similar to the design of the joints of the slopes. First, the lower valleys are laid (Fig. 66), then the tiles, then the upper valleys. Since there is a high probability of moisture getting between the upper valley and the metal tiles on the slope of the dormer window, it is necessary to install a universal or self-expanding porous seal into the unit. The lower valleys extend slightly beyond the pediment line to ensure water drainage. The upper valleys are trimmed.

rice. 66. Decoration of short valleys with metal roofing

Articles are based on regulatory documents and instructions from roofing material manufacturers.

In the vast majority of cases, when repairing a roof, the choice falls on metal tiles.

In addition to the long list of economic and operational advantages, this material is also interesting for its suitability for self-installation.

In this case, even the basic skills of a home craftsman will be enough to ensure that the roof is not only durable and practical, but also attractive in appearance.

Advantages of metal tiles

The widespread use of metal tiles is due to the combination of the following advantages in this type of roofing material:

• Economic expediency.
  Compared to most other roofing coverings, metal tiles have a relatively low cost.
  What makes purchasing such a roof even more profitable is the ability to avoid hiring builders to install it, as well as its long service life.
• Light weight.
  With an average weight of 1 sq. m of material is about 6 kg, the total mass of the roof is relatively small. This allows you to do without the use of a powerful and expensive rafter system. In addition, a lightweight roof does not require the installation of continuous sheathing, which simplifies the calculation of the roof and reduces the cost of work.
• Resistance against external factors. Protection is provided by use in the design roofing sheet a few protective words. Therefore, the metal base of the canvas is not afraid of either prolonged exposure to moisture or direct sun rays, no damage during installation or hail.
• Aesthetics. The production technology of metal tiles allows you to create absolutely any texture. Accordingly, on the market you can easily choose an option suitable for the overall exterior of the building. The range is further expanded by the possibility of painting sheets in all shades of the palette.
• Fire safety. The basis of the metal tile is a sheet of galvanized steel. This material is completely non-flammable, making it absolutely fireproof.

The indicated advantages of metal roofing make it the most practical, affordable and attractive externally a roofing option.

Materials and tools

To install metal tile sheets, you will need a set of traditional tools for finishing work:

• electric screwdriver;
• jigsaw or circular saw;
• marker;
• construction stapler with staples;
• metal scissors;
• scotch;
• laser plane builder or construction level;
• roulette.

Important! To cut sheets of metal tiles, you cannot use grinders with abrasive discs operating at high speeds. Their use will lead to overheating of the steel base, melting and destruction of the polymer protective coating. Such damage greatly reduces the service life of the roof.

Of the materials, in addition to the metal tile itself and its accessories, you will need the following:

• bars 50 x 50 mm;
• boards 100 wide and 25–35 mm thick;
• sheet waterproofing material;
• wooden slats;
• galvanized screws, nails.

You will also need personal protective equipment and auxiliary equipment: a ladder, scaffolding, brush for sweeping away debris, etc.

Find out more about laying corrugated sheets on a gable roof:

Structure of the roofing “pie”

The basis for creating a roof made of metal tiles is rafter system. In a gable (or gable, as it is more often called in everyday life) roof, the rafter system has the most convenient configuration for installation work, since it forms only two planes.

A layer of waterproofing material (3) is laid on top of the rafter system. Without it, condensation on the sheet metal roofing moisture will be absorbed into wooden structures under the roof, destroying them. Waterproofing also helps in cases where the roof begins to leak.

Vertical slats - counter-lattice (4) - are attached to the waterproofing material along the rafters. Their purpose is to organize a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the sheathing.

In addition, the roof structure contains front boards(8) and cornice strips (10). The first ones are stuffed onto the end part of the rafters (1) and protect from moisture falling with the wind. The latter serve to remove moisture flowing down the waterproofing layer.

Installation procedure

On gable roofs metal tiles are laid first on one slope, and then on the other.

Laying sheets of metal tiles should begin with lower slope angle.

All installation work on roofing is carried out in several stages:

Checking the geometry of load-bearing roof elements

At this stage, the diagonals of the roof slopes are measured and compared using a tape measure. If they coincide, then the roof has a rectangular shape suitable for laying metal tiles.

In addition, you need to use a level or builder to make sure that the ridge and both cornices are strictly horizontal. The flatness of the slopes must also be checked. Emergency sections of the rafter system are being repaired.

Installation of the frontal board and filing of the roof overhang

The place where the front board is attached (8) is the end (bottom) part of the rafters (1). This roofing element is fixed with galvanized nails.

Front boards should not completely isolate the under-roof space from the street. To ensure free passage of air, ventilation gaps must remain between them.

WITH reverse side of the frontal board, a horizontal filing is installed under the roof overhang. As such, you can use perforated plastic panels. This option Convenient with the ability to use fastening j-straps for plastic, nailed to the front board from behind. If boards are used, ventilation slots should be left between them.

Installation of gutter hooks

Hooks(9) should be placed in a straight line with a slope towards the planned drainage. Reliable drainage will be ensured by the slope angle from 5 mm per meter of gutter.


The most practical and easy to install are hooks of extended length. They are sewn to the bottom of the rafters on top of the front board. To ensure the vertical position of the hook, grooves of the required depth are cut in the board and the bottom of the rafters.

First of all, the upper part of the hook is nailed or screwed to the top of the rafters. Then it is bent to the required position and fixed on the end of the rafters. If the installation of the drain is carried out after laying the metal tiles, then use short hooks, the upper part of which is under roof covering does not start.

Laying waterproofing material

Rolled water-repellent materials (films) are used for the roofing “pie”. As it moves onto the rafters, the roll unfolds horizontally along the eaves. You should start from the bottom of the roof. Each subsequent strip is laid with an overlap on the bottom one. The amount of overlap is 15 cm.

The waterproofing sheets (3) should be fixed with a construction stapler. The material is allowed to sag up to 2 cm. The joints are taped with tape. The top and bottom of the film are determined by the factory markers applied to it.

Along the rafters on top of the waterproofing they are stuffed vertical(4) and horizontal(6) laths made of wooden strips. They are nailed along the central part of the rafter beams.

Attention! Metal roofing and bitumen waterproofing are incompatible materials. When the roof heats up under the sun, the bitumen will melt and the canvas will lose its ability to repel moisture.

Find out how to make a gable roof gable with your own hands:

Installation of sheathing

The bars or boards of the horizontal sheathing begin to be packed from below, from the eaves. The first beam of the sheathing must have a cross-section larger than the cross-section of the remaining beams. When installing it, it is necessary to control strict parallelism to the cornice. Installation of metal tile sheets begins with fixation on the lower beam of the sheathing. Therefore, the appearance of the entire roof will largely depend on the accuracy of its installation.

The pitch of the sheathing beams depends on the distance between horizontal waves on a sheet of metal tile and must coincide with it. Most often the pitch is 300, 350 or 400 mm. The only exception is the step up to the second beam of the sheathing. Here it should be reduced by 70 mm.


The topmost beams of the sheathing are also stuffed with decrease step, right up to nailing the beams tightly. This will facilitate the installation of ridge elements and add strength the entire structure. Around roof and dormer windows, chimneys, ventilation ducts and other additional elements(bridges, snow guards, etc.) the sheathing should also be strengthened by stuffing a continuous web of beams.

Installation of curtain rods

The planks are attached along the entire cornice using galvanized self-tapping screws. The fastening pitch is 300 mm. If the length of one bar is not enough, then it is increased. In this case, the planks are laid overlapping with overlaps of 50–100 mm.

The eaves strip is attached with a slight tension, then the roofing material will be more resistant to gusts of wind and less noisy.

Installation of the lower valley

Where the roof planes (for example, the slope of the roof of a house and the slope of the roof of a dormer window) form intersections at a slight angle, the installation of a special strip is required - the lower valley (20b).

A continuous plank sheathing (7) is placed under it. Boards with a cross section of 150 x 25 mm are applied as lathing material.

Under the lower valley you will need a continuous strip of sheathing about 300 mm wide.

The position of the lower valley is selected so that its edge in the overhang area passes over cornice boards. The sheet of metal tiles and the lower valley strip are not directly fastened together, but are laid with porous insulation.

Installing a chimney outlet bypass

For a brick pipe, the procedure will be as follows:

• A layer of waterproofing is applied around the perimeter with an overlap of 50 mm on the pipe. For fixation, you can use heat-resistant tape;
• bypass strips (28) are installed;
• A groove about 15 mm deep is cut along the pipe, into which the upper edges of the bypass strip are inserted. You can only tap on solid bricks; it is prohibited to do this on masonry joints;
• The drainage bar organizes the drainage of water, which either drains into the nearest valley or is directed to the eaves.

The decorative pipe surround is not installed at this stage of the work; metal tiles are laid first. For round chimneys, the lining is made of sealing tape. To ensure a tight fit to the pipe, the tape will need to be cut along the top edge in several places before gluing.

Installation of metal tile sheets

If it is possible to lay sheets along the entire roof slope in one row, the installation order will be as follows:

• the outermost sheet is applied and its position is verified relative to the eaves and side section of the roof;
• the first sheet is fixed in the upper part with one self-tapping screw;
• the next sheet is laid with an overlap in the wave and aligned vertically;
• the sheets are sewn together with self-tapping screws, but the threads should not be screwed into the beams;
• the following sheets are mounted in the same way;
• the resulting assembly is once again verified relative to the ridge and cornice;
• screws are screwed into the sheathing.

If the height of the sheet is less than the length of the slope and you have to lay the metal tiles in several rows, the procedure will be as follows:

• the first two sheets are laid according to the same pattern as for single-row installation;
• the third sheet is placed on top of the first with a horizontal offset of 150 mm, after which these two sheets are fastened together;
• the next sheet is placed above the second and attached to it horizontally. With the third sheet, fastening is carried out on the vertical side;
• four fastened sheets are aligned together and fixed to the sheathing by tightening the screws.

At the final stage fixation produced at the bottom of each wave by bottom cut sheets. In places where vertical overlap, screws are screwed into crest waves. Distance between self-tapping screws should be chosen with this calculation: there should be 6–8 pieces per square meter.

For detailed instructions on installing metal roofing, see this video:

Dormer window device (“cuckoo”)

The location of the "cuckoo" is determined early. When laying sheets of metal tiles, areas corresponding to configurations dormer window.

Roofing pie under the window neatly sawed out. By perimeter windows are being installed additional sheathing beams.

Gaps between the timber and the sheet of metal tiles are sealed. To drain water, install valleys the top and bottom of the dormer window.

Installing the end strip

The purpose of this slats(29) – protection from precipitation and sharp gusts of wind penetrating under the metal tiles. In addition, the end strip also performs decorative function: when correct installation its upper edge overlaps crest waves of metal tiles. Screw end strip start from the side of the cornice. If it is necessary to build up, provide an overlap in 100 mm.

Installation of the upper valley

The purpose of this element is to drain water, in addition, upper valley(20a) makes roof joints more aesthetically pleasing.

For installation, use self-tapping screws, screwing them in so that don't disturb waterproofing layer. Between the upper valley panel and the surface of the metal tile, a self-expanding insulation.

Installation of junction strips

These planks allow you to organize careful And sealed transition from the roof surface to adjacent walls and other structural elements of the building and roof.

The connection to the wall is arranged according to the same principle as the connection to the chimney.

Installation of ridge strips and external corners

Before installation ridge strip you should make sure that the gap between the waterproofing sheets of adjacent roof slopes is not less than 20 cm. On top of the top continuous sheathing you can lay additional a layer of waterproofing material in a strip of 150 mm.

Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws screwed into sheathing through the covering wave. To increase the ridge strip, organized overlaps, serving as additional ribs rigidity.

End parts of the ridge are closed with external corners fixed with self-tapping screws. Between the metal tile and the ridge strip is laid insulation made of elastic material.

Installation of stairs, walkway, roof railing and snow guard

Roofing accessories made of metal tiles are mounted on top of the roofing.

Their places placement are determined in advance and are intensifying additional beams and sheathing boards.

Particular attention is paid to installation snow guard(21). It is fixed to the rafters complete reinforced screws.

Installation of a drainage system

When installing water drainage systems The following rules should be followed from the roof:

• to one drain pipe it is forbidden install more than 10 meters of drainage gutter;
• Part gutters above the funnel should be cut at an angle with sides in 100–110 mm;
• funnel should be located under the gutter at a distance of 150 mm.

All elements of the drainage system, including plugs, funnels, etc., have a fixation system among themselves. However, after installation work is completed, they should be further processed. silicone sealant.

Attention! Drainpipes are installed with the crimp down, otherwise leaks cannot be avoided.

Roof grounding with a separate bus

Since metal tiles have the ability to conduct electricity, then for safety reasons it should be provided with a system grounding.

Grounding is done by connecting electrical wires large section with one end to the roof (through a self-tapping screw). The second end is securely attached to metal structure buried in the ground depth at least a meter.

Post-installation processing

Metal tiles require periodic inspection(semiannually). From the roof and drainage system clean up debris and leaves, and the surface cleanse with a soft brush.
The canvas in problem areas can be tint, this will increase its corrosion resistance.

Installing counter battens under the rafters

The system of counter-battens under the rafters allows you to insulation roofs. They are used as counter rails wooden beams or planks nailed.
Further into the space between rafters a layer of insulating material is placed behind the counter-trikes, which additionally reduces noise metal roofing.

Laying vapor barrier and fastening with slats

Leave insulation open is unacceptable, since moisture can get on it and negate the entire insulating effect. To prevent this, apply to the insulation vapor barrier film(16). This material does not allow moisture to pass through, but effectively allows water vapor to pass through, leaving the insulation dry

Wooden slats are placed on top of the vapor barrier for fixing whole pie.

Safety precautions

Work on installing the roof of gable roofs refers to work with high level of danger, and the more slope stingrays, the stricter the safety requirements. Don't neglect them, take care of yours health:

• be sure to wear safety belt, tied with a strong rope to a strong part of the building;
• work in shoes that have good clutch with surface;
• stairs And forests securely fasten to the walls of the house;
• roof protect scaffolding, scaffolding, mesh or sides with a height of at least 1 m.

When working with metal tiles the following rules should be adhered to:

• always use mittens;
• to not allow applying excessive force to metal;
• take into account the strength of the wind and windage sheets of metal tiles.

In addition, it will not be superfluous to use all available devices that make work easier. Eg, inclined guides from long boards will not only increase safety when rise sheets, but will also ensure the safety of the material.

In general, installation of metal tiles on gable roof does not pose a serious problem. It is enough to follow safety rules and follow all recommendations to get reliable And beautiful roofing at the lowest possible cost.

The following describes the safety rules that must be followed when working with metal tiles: video: