It would seem a trivial question - how to connect a switch to control lighting devices. However, for many novice home craftsmen who are arranging their residential property for the first time and strive to do everything on their own as much as possible, this operation can cause complications. Moreover, various variations of connection schemes are possible, from the simplest to the very complex.
The variety of switches on sale is extremely large. But mainly these differences relate to the external design of the devices and the “mechanics” of switching. And so, in all series produced by leading manufacturers, the approximate similarity of the “sets” of models based on the principle of switching contacts is still observed. In this article we will look at where, when and how different types of switches are connected.
Variety of switch models
What is a switch and where is it installed?
A switch is an electrical switching device designed to control the closing and opening of the power circuit going to the lamps. Some household appliances, for example, a permanently installed fan, can also be connected through it.
Let's say right away about the most important rule!
Switch Always is put on break. Yes, the power circuit can also be controlled through a break in the neutral conductor. And quite a lot of “masters” are guilty of this - they say there is no difference. But this is a blatant violation of operational safety requirements. The meaning here is simple and clear - if the switch breaks the circuit, then there should be no life-threatening phase voltage on the device connected through it. That is, for example, replacing a burnt-out lamp in a lamp will not be accompanied by the possibility of electric shock.
And one should not hope that this issue is not so serious. Neglecting simple rules of electrical installation is always fraught with serious consequences.
How big is the risk of electric shock?
The answer is clear – extremely large! A 220-volt household network is quite capable of causing severe electrical injuries, sometimes incompatible with life. If there is no understanding of this issue, then take on self-execution no electrical work required. To begin with, carefully read the special publication on our portal, which describes in detail about.
Types of switches by design
Let's leave it aside external design of these devices - here each manufacturer tries to attract buyers original design. So there is always the opportunity to choose a set of sockets and switches, made in a general style that is most suitable for the planned decoration of the room. Let's focus on more fundamental issues.
Built-in and surface-mounted models
IN modern apartments and homes, in the vast majority of cases, built-in models are used. Their use is possible only with hidden wiring. The switch is installed in a “socket” pre-arranged in the wall, in which a standard socket box with a diameter of 68 mm is most often used.
It is clear that the installation of such switches requires quite large-scale preparatory work. Moreover, the laying of the necessary cables and wires must be thoroughly thought out in advance. But hidden, well-executed wiring is safer to use and does not interfere with any chosen wall decoration.
How to plan electrical wiring in a house or apartment and install it
The task is of primary importance and increased complexity. When performing these very large-scale and labor-intensive activities, it is necessary to strictly follow the established rules and technological recommendations. This is described with all the details in a special publication on our portal.
Surface-mounted switches are mounted on the wall surface. This greatly simplifies their installation, and they can be used with both open and hidden wiring.
Such devices are not always appropriate in the interior, as the walls protrude too much beyond the surface. But where this issue is not fundamental, such switches can greatly simplify the task. They are often used in utility or utility rooms. Many of these models have an increased class of housing protection, and can easily be installed in outdoor or indoor conditions with high humidity.
However, there are lovers and emphatically original design living rooms, using open wiring made in retro style. For this purpose, there are also entire lines of overhead electrical devices - sockets and switches.
Number of keys
This difference is immediately visible - there can be one, two, three keys, and in rare cases even more. Obviously, such switches can be used to control several light sources or several groups of lamps on one luminaire.
A very common example is a two-key model installed in front of the entrance to the bathroom and toilet, or a three-key model if a corridor or kitchen is also added here. Another “classic” option for using a two-key switch is to separately control groups of lamps of one multi-arm chandelier in the living room.
The convenience is clear - there is no need to prepare two (or more) sockets with sockets for several switches - you can often limit yourself to one.
It should be correctly understood that the number of keys does not at all uniquely determine the functionality of the switch. In addition to conventional devices that work only to close and break a circuit, there are also cross devices, which, in turn, can also have one or more keys. This will be discussed in more detail below.
Switch housing protection class
All electrical devices are divided according to the degree of protection from contact with current-carrying parts of solid objects (including dust) and moisture (water). Depending on the expected operating conditions of the circuit breaker, a model that meets these criteria should be selected.
The security class is indicated letter designation IP followed by a two-digit number. The first digit indicates the degree of protection against solid particles and dust, and can be from 0 to 6. The second digit is the indicator of protection against water ingress - from 0 to 9. What higher figure, the higher the protection.
In ordinary living rooms where too high humidity and there can be no dust, it is quite possible to use IP20 class switches. Nothing prevents us from installing more secure ones here, but this is reflected in the cost. But for the kitchen, for example, it’s worth choosing a model of IP44 class - here there are enough fumes, and the possibility of splashing water cannot be completely excluded.
The requirements are even higher if the switch is installed in a bathhouse, shower room, or unheated damp room. Here it is better to use models with a class of at least IP45. Well, if the installation is supposed to be outdoors, that is, direct exposure to atmospheric precipitation is possible, then the optimal model seems to be no lower than IP55, 56, 66 - extra insurance will never hurt in these matters.
Differences by terminal type
Most switches use regular screw terminals to connect wires. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the socket (hole), and then using a screwdriver, the screw is tightened to ensure reliable clamping in the terminal. Solid wires can be tightened directly into the terminals. Stranded - first they are tinned, or, what is simpler, a terminal lug is put on them and crimped.
In many modern models applied spring terminals. There are no screws on them - after the prepared end of the wire is inserted all the way into the hole, the terminal is clamped automatically, ensuring reliable contact. Convenient and fast, although some electricians are still skeptical about the durability of such connections, preferring to work with conventional screw terminals.
Availability of light indication
A convenient feature that allows you to avoid fumbling around the wall with your hand in the dark. The indicator, lit in the off position, will accurately show the location of the switch keys. The cost of such devices is not much higher than conventional ones, so such models are very popular.
However, sometimes owners who have not thought through this issue in advance have to refuse such a function. The fact is that a small current flowing through the indicator can cause flickering or dim glow of gas-discharge or LED lamps with the lighting off. This makes many people very nervous. And you have to bite out the conductor going to the indicator in order to turn it off completely. So this should be kept in mind when choosing a switch.
By the way, the indication on some types of switches may have a completely opposite purpose. That is, the light comes on when the circuit is closed. This can be convenient when placing a lighting device remotely. For example, you can immediately see if the light in the basement is left on, inspection hole garage, etc.
Differences by type of control device
There is also quite a wide variety on this issue. And each of the owners chooses the option that seems more convenient to him.
- Key switches - uh This is the most common group of switching devices. It assumes the presence of a swinging mechanism with fixation in one of two positions – upper and lower. The design of the mechanism can be different - with a ball and rocker arm, with flat or round springs, with other parts that ensure the specified position of the key.
Such switches are very convenient and most familiar to most users. They are not distinguished by their high price. And at the same time, they are sufficiently reliable, capable of serving faithfully for decades with careful use.
- Switches with button, fixed in a recessed position, have not earned much popularity, although there are fans of this approach. The durability of such devices raises some concerns - with frequent use, the button mechanism wears out quite quickly.
Push-button switches are also available without locking. But in this case, the circuit must also include a relay device, which will be responsible for closing the power circuit. Not very convenient for self-installation.
- Rotary type switches once dominated without limit, and then they were replaced by keyboards, as more convenient and reliable. However, they still have their adherents, especially among lovers of retro style.
As a rule, these are surface-mounted switches, and most often from the “retro-electrics” collections. By the way, the only “outdated” thing about them is their appearance. And the “filling” can be quite modern. So, despite the external similarity of different models of this type, they can be different in functionality - have several positions, be analogues of two-key, pass-through, cross, etc.
- Switches with cord. There are fans of such devices. Such switches can be convenient when placed in traditional places at home or near the bed in the bedroom.
It is difficult to say how appropriate it will be to install such switches everywhere in place of familiar keyboards. However, they are presented in the assortment of almost all leading manufacturers. By the way, the presence of only one lace sometimes does not mean the limited functionality of the product. For example, some switches of this type are capable of reacting differently to the number of pulls on the cord. That is, upon closer examination they turn out to be analogues of models with several keys.
- Touch switches. This is already a trend of our time. A light touch of your finger is enough to switch positions.
Tactile contact with the panel is perceived as built-in electronic circuit, which already produces a control signal for the switching device. Very convenient, does not require any effort. And after quickly getting used to this technique, you no longer want to return to the old models.
The disadvantage, first of all, is the rather high cost of such switches. This criterion, probably, does not yet allow them to move into the category of widely demanded equipment. But the trend towards cheaper prices is clearly visible, and demand for it will grow. It must be assumed that their reliability will also increase, since there are many complaints online about the lack of outstanding durability of some products.
- Switches with remote control. This is a further improvement of touch models, allowing you to control the light without leaving your seat.
Surely, such devices have a great future, and their popularity is constantly growing. But they have not yet reached mass demand - again due to the high cost.
There are other types of switches - with electromechanical or electronic (dimmer), with built-in light or motion sensors, with a timer, or even responding to voice commands. But these are particularities that are either used extremely rarely or have a narrowly targeted purpose.
Let us note once again that regardless of the types of switches mentioned, fundamentally similar circuits are used for their electrical installation. This will be the subject of further consideration.
Connection diagrams for various types of switches
Regular single-key switch
The most common and simplest circuit is that the switch is responsible for controlling a specific lighting fixture.
Such a switch has only two contacts on the terminals - at the input and at the output. Therefore, there are only two possible positions - the circuit is closed or open.
The circuit using such a switch is also very simple.
Just a few explanations about the scheme - they will concern not only it, but also subsequent ones.
1 is the power line coming from the distribution board. Typically, a power cable consists of three wires. Blue (cyan) – zero N. Green-yellow – protective grounding PE. The color of the insulation of the phase wire L may be different, but only in such a way that it cannot be confused with neutral or ground. In this diagram, the phase is shown in brown.
2 – installation room, in which the corresponding cables and wires are switched.
3 – wire connection points.
Let us immediately make a reservation that such connections in the box can be made in different ways. These are twisted, followed by soldering and insulation. For twists without soldering, special caps can be used. Various types of terminals are widely used. Thus, Wago clamp terminals are very popular among electricians, allowing, if necessary, to disconnect wires without the risk of breaking them. These terminals are often criticized. But from personal use experience: after 8 years of operation in home system lighting - not a single complaint.
However, each master here is free to choose a connection that meets safety requirements and his concepts of reliability and durability. The only thing, of course, is that twists are completely excluded. Yes, aluminum, by the way, has long had no place in home wiring.
4 – single-key switch.
5 – a lighting device is conventionally shown.
6 – housing of the lighting device, if it is made of metal. In this case, a ground loop wire must be connected to it to avoid injury due to phase breakdown to the housing. As you can see, this grounding conductor does not take any part in the control and power circuit of the lighting device and, according to by and large, does not affect its performance. It is not used in cases where the lamp body is entirely made of dielectric materials. Therefore, having once again emphasized the importance of protective grounding, we will not show it in subsequent diagrams, so as not to “overload” the image with details.
Please note once again that the switch is placed only for a phase break. The neutral conductor goes directly from the mounting box to the lamp - in the area of the switch it has nothing to do at all.
How this connection works is shown in the diagram below.
Everything is extremely simple and clear. When the key is switched up, the circuit is closed. There is already a zero on the lamp, the phase came through the switch - the lighting device started working. (We are talking about lighting, but it should be correctly understood that another device, for example, a stationary fan, can be connected in the same way).
Again, just for example when studying the simplest scheme, let's look at the recommended sequence of actions for connecting a switch to a lighting fixture using hidden wiring.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | Preparatory work has been carried out. A distribution board with automatic switches (item 1) is already installed in the apartment (house). There are grooves cut from it (item 2) for laying hidden power cables. From the mounting box (pos. 3), “responsible” for connecting the lighting fixture, a groove (pos. 4) is cut vertically down to the socket box (pos. 5), where the switch will be installed. In the opposite direction, towards the ceiling, there is a groove (item 6) for laying the cable from the box to the lighting fixture. |
 | A cable is laid from the distribution board in the groove to the box. If the network requires the presence of a ground loop, then the cable must be three-core. For lighting systems, we can recommend the VVGPng cable 3×1.5 mm². The cable must be inserted into the box with a margin of approximately 100÷120 mm, so that the length is sufficient for installation work. |
 | Phase L wire (in this example its insulation has grey colour) connects to the output circuit breaker responsible for a specific line of the lighting system. When using wires with a cross-section of 1.5 mm², the rating of the machine should be 10 amperes. |
 | The blue wire of cable N is connected to the zero bus. Green-yellow, respectively, to the PE protective grounding bus. |
 | The end of the cable stuck in the box is cut - the outer protective sheath is removed from it, the ends of the wires are stripped to 8÷10 mm of insulation. It is advisable to immediately mark the wires - stick strips of plaster on them and sign them. This is especially important if there are distractions for other work (and this often happens at this stage of construction or repair), and in cases where the colors of the wire insulation are non-standard - and this also happens. So that the “pinout” is not forgotten, it is better to immediately mark the wires. |
 | A two-core VVG 2×1.5 cable is laid in the vertical channel from the box to the socket of the future switch. There is also a margin of about 100÷120 mm in length. The cable is cut, the ends of the wires are stripped of insulation. The example shows that the wires have gray and brown insulation. IN in this case this is not so important - one is simply marked L, and the second - L1. |
 | A similar operation is carried out at the opposite end of this section of cable, inserted into the socket box. Since it is planned to finish the walls with filling the groove channels with plaster (putty), at this stage it is better to seal the socket box with construction tape so that the solution does not get into it. Installation of the switch is usually carried out after finishing. |
 | From the distribution box, along an upward groove, and then through a cable channel in the ceiling, wiring is laid that goes to the installation site of the lighting device. Again, this can be a VVG 3×1.5 cable if grounding is intended. |
 | A lighting device is attached to the selected location. The laid cable must be inserted into its housing. True, many devices (the same chandeliers) also require an open arrangement of the switching unit, which is then covered with a decorative cap. But it’s not difficult to figure this out locally, and the switching principle does not change due to such differences. |
 | The supplied cable is cut, the wires are stripped of insulation and marked. |
 | The stripped ends of the cable wires are connected to the lamp terminals. For grounding, a terminal is usually provided, located directly on the device body. The blue wire N is connected to the terminal block, focusing on the color of the lamp wire that goes to it, or following the icon. Well, then the phase wire L1 is connected - to the remaining terminal or, again, in accordance with the markings of the contacts. |
 | The opposite end of this cable, inserted into the mounting box, is cut, the wires are stripped and marked. |
 | Now you need to carefully separate the wires in the box into groups. This is easy to do if marking has been carried out. In this case, four pairs are obtained. The first (here - from left to right): the phase L wire of the power cable and the L wire going from the box to the switch. Second: two blue neutral wires N - the power cable and the one going to the lamp. The third is similar to the second, but only with green-yellow PE wires. The fourth is L1 wires from the switch and from the lighting fixture. |
 | Now you need to connect these pairs. As mentioned above, this can be done using twists. But this example shows the use of Wago clamp terminals. You will need four terminals for two contacts. |
 | Switching has been completed. |
 | The box can be immediately covered with a plug. |
 | If the system home wiring does not have a grounding loop, or the lighting device is made of dielectric materials and does not require grounding, the task is simplified. In this case, a two-core cable is laid from the box to the lamp. |
 | And in the box there are only three connecting nodes, that is, three terminals are enough for switching. |
 | After complete completion of the home wiring work, the room is finished. |
 | Now you can finally install the switch in place. Wires are connected to the terminals - one at the input, the second at the output. In this case, there is no fundamental difference between where L ends up and where L1 ends up. But with more complex schemes, which will be discussed further, this may have significance. |
 | That's it, after fixing it in the socket box, the switch can be covered with a decorative cover and the key can be put in place. |
 | After this, all that remains is to screw the lamps into the lamp and finally assemble it by installing the shade. Well, then - power the line automatically in distribution cabinet and evaluate the performance of the system by checking the lights turn on and off. Everything should work flawlessly. |
The reader probably noticed that nothing is said about installing the switch itself in the socket box. The fact is that the designs of the models vary greatly. And how, in what sequence, to disassemble the device, how to tighten the terminal connections - there are countless cases. And the actual fixation of the switch in the socket box is practically no different from the installation (not to be confused with electrical installation!) of a socket or other built-in device. And this has already been described in detail on the pages of our portal. Therefore, repeating myself doesn’t make much sense. It's better to focus on circuit diagrams switch switching.
How to install an outlet in an apartment?
Any homeowner should be able to cope with this task, provided that all work safety requirements are met and the diagrams and technological recommendations are followed. With all the details, with several step by step examples this is described in a special article on our portal.
Two-gang switch
This switch allows you to control the lighting of two separate lamps (groups of lamps), or to switch on groups of lamps separately, for example, in one multi-arm chandelier.
- switches may vary. The most commonly used model is one that has one common (paralleled) phase input and two separate outputs. Its diagram can be represented as follows:
It is obvious that each of the keys controls its group completely independently of the other lighting fixtures. For example, such switches are often placed in front of the bathroom and toilet - you can turn on the light in any room or in both at the same time. Or, in application to one lamp. The first key turns on one or two light bulbs, the light of which is enough for normal rest. The second key uses a little more lamps, that is, the light will be brighter. But when “full” lighting is required, both keys are turned on and all the horns are lit.
The diagram below will help a master encountering this issue for the first time to better understand the connection principle.
In the installation box, the zero wires go to the lamps. The phase wire is connected to the input of the two-key switch. And from each of the outputs, a separate conductor goes through the mounting box, each to its own lamp. They can be switched on separately, independently of one another, or simultaneously.
It is clear that a three-core cable must already be laid from the installation box to the switch. And here it is already necessary Special attention pay attention to the correct marking of the wires, as discussed above. The colors of the insulation of the wires converging in the box can often be the same, and thereby mislead an inexperienced installer.
Let us say right away that a three-key switch is connected using the same principle. The number of wires coming from it simply increases.
- When purchasing a two-key switch, you should exercise some care. The fact is that, although rare, there are still models with separate phase input. In a diagram it might look like this:
Note: The indicated marking of terminal contacts is very conditional. By the way, manufacturers are not unanimous on this issue. There are completely arbitrary digital and alphanumeric contact signatures, or even arrow symbols. But in combination with the diagram, usually printed on the back of the switch housing, it is not difficult to understand each specific case.
It is clear that the circuit shown above is not entirely suitable for such a switch. True, if you happen to buy just such a model by mistake, everything can be solved by installing a jumper that closes both contacts at the input.
There are also applications for such switches. It’s clear that putting two different phases into one socket box is complete madness. But sometimes circumstances force us to draw lines from two different defenses. Although this also looks like an extremely inappropriate and cumbersome solution.
You can use a similar device for some complex lighting control circuits. For example, it is required to organize switching in such a way that the switching on of a group of lamps depends on whether another group is switched on. In this case, you can install a jumper between the output of one “channel” and the input of another. If you look at the illustration above, it is between L1 and L2.
What this achieves is shown by the following diagram
Green shows a jumper connecting the output of the left key to the input of the right one.
The phase wire is connected directly to the input of the left key. And in her work she is completely independent. That is, turning it on turns on the devices connected to this line. But if it is turned off, then the second key will not work - the circuit in the second line is open. But when the first one is turned on, the second one can already “lead its team.”
Such cases occur infrequently, but, who knows, maybe a similar option will come in handy.
Connecting a pass-through switch
Imagine these situations:
- Spacious entrance hall. The owner returned home after dark, turned on the light at the entrance, took off his shoes, and undressed. And then he is forced to turn off the light and make his way in the darkness to the door to the room. Inconvenient. The opportunity arises to turn off the light right at the exit from the hallway.
- A long corridor, passing through which will also be more convenient to turn on the light at the entrance and turn it off at the exit.
- Checkpoint common room or a hall, from where several doors lead to adjacent rooms. It would be nice to be able to control the lighting from each of them.
AND similar options there may be many. To solve this problem, it is necessary to use pass-through switches, the name of which already speaks for itself.
By and large, these are not even switches, but switches. Outwardly, they are similar to the usual single-key ones. They are often marked with a distinctive icon in the form of multidirectional vertical arrows. But their internal switching scheme differs from conventional single-key ones and looks like this:
Two positions of the switch key correspond to two switching options - to one or the second output. And such switches in common system are always used in pairs.
Their electrical installation diagram may look like this:
Let's start to figure it out.
With the neutral wire - no changes.
The phase wire from the box goes to the input of one of the switches. A wire going to the lamp is connected to the input contact of the second switch. (Both shown in brown).
Output No. 2 of the first switch is connected through the wiring box by wire to output No. 3 of the second. (Highlighted in purple).
And, accordingly, output No. 3 of the first is with output No. 2 of the second.
Thus, it turns out that a three-core cable must be connected to each single-key pass-through switch.
In the position shown in the diagram, it is quite obvious that the power supply circuit of the lamp is open. But as soon as you move the key on any of the switches to another position, the circuit closes. And vice versa - when the lighting is working, any of the switches can break the circuit.
By the way, the switching of output contacts shown here is not a dogma at all. It’s just that with such a scheme, the same position of the keys (both up or both down) of the pass-through switches means an open circuit. Uneven – inclusion. But nothing prevents you from connecting contacts of the same name with each other - it’s just that activation and deactivation will occur in other positions of the keys. Not important.
The animated illustration below clearly shows how such a circuit with two pass-through switches works.
Pass-through switches can be two- or even three-key, that is, capable of controlling two or three lighting devices (groups of devices) using the same principle. We will not give the diagram - it is not fundamentally different. Only, of course, the number of wires increases.
Application of cross switch
But what if you want to have three or even more lighting control points? For example, a switch at the head of the owners’ beds in the bedroom and at the entrance to the room? Or does each exit have a spacious hall with many doors?
There is a solution to this problem as well. To do this, along with a pair of pass-through switches, another one is used. It is called cross or intermediate.
The cross switch can also be one- or two-key. For external difference on its front side there is often an image in the form of multidirectional horizontal arrows or in the form of a lattice.
Let's consider a simpler option - a single-key one. His switching scheme is like this.
The cross switch has four terminals, that is, four wires must be supplied to it from the distribution box. And they are nothing more than those conductors that connect the output terminals of the pass-through switches. That is, in essence, a crossover switch is placed in the gap of this pair of wires. An example is shown in the diagram below:
The following illustration clearly demonstrates how this works:
Write everything down possible options It’s already difficult here - there are quite a lot of them. But we can clearly summarize the main thing. Whatever position the switch keys are in when the system is not working, changing the position of any of them will immediately turn on the lighting. And vice versa - when the light is on, you just need to switch any key to make it go out. That is, lighting control can be done in exactly the same way from any of the points.
Another interesting feature is that the number of cross switches between the pass-throughs is not limited in any way. And no matter how many of them are installed according to this principle, all of them will be able to control the connected lighting device with absolutely equal success.
* * * * * * *
So, the basic, most commonly used circuits for connecting switches were considered. The only question that remains is not entirely clear: where is it better to place them? There are also very specific recommendations on this matter. We will not describe them here - they are presented very well in the video below.
Video: What is the best way to place switches in your apartment with maximum convenience?
For experienced electricians no easier work than the banal installation of a switch. In fact, there is nothing super complicated in this operation. True, in addition to mandatory compliance with the rules outlined in the code for electrical installation electricians, knowledge of some subtleties is also necessary. They will tell beginners how to connect the light switch in their favorite bathhouse so that bathing procedures take place in civilized conditions.
Competent choice of the “captain” of electrical wiring
We'll keep the rank of general for ourselves, because... The switch will serve under our command. We will assign the colonel to an old-style packet switch or a new two-pole circuit breaker installed in the power supply panel of a country property. The colonel will give an order to the captain during the period of connecting the device to the electrical wiring in order to complete withdrawal voltage.
Important! During the period of work with electrical wiring, the supply of current to the object being equipped must be completely shut off, i.e. relieve tension by disconnecting.
The device that gives commands to the light bulb under our supervision is selected according to the type of wiring available. She may be:
- open - laid on top of walls, mainly made of logs or timber;
- hidden - carried out in channels-grooves, hollowed out in brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete.
With open wiring, everything is extremely simple: the paths for the supply and exit of the electrical flow, as well as the connection points, are determined by the naked amateur eye. To install a bathhouse with hidden wiring, you will need an electrical circuit diagram, with the help of which you need to determine the point of possible installation.
Switches for hidden and open wiring differ structurally and externally:
- Hidden devices for switching on/off are located flush with the walls, delighting the owners only with a beautiful protective cover. The entire filling of the device is “recessed” into a pre-hollowed niche. The mechanism that gives the captain's commands is located in a dielectric socket, similar to a shallow plastic glass. This is what needs to be installed initially in the formed recess. Fix hidden socket boxes in plasterboard partitions using special spacers, in brick and concrete walls they are “planted” on alabaster or on building mixture. Socket boxes for switches for hidden wiring are sold separately; they need to be selected depending on the wall material.
- Switches for an open electrical network are equipped with a flat plastic or metal platform instead of a cup-shaped installation device. It must be attached with galvanized screws to wooden wall, dowel-nails to brick or concrete.
Both switch options have an equal number of structural components. This is a socket box, a command mechanism and decorative and protective parts made of dielectric materials that prevent the passage of current. Read more about choosing switches on the Engineer's Advice website.
General principles and installation algorithm
Installation of both types of devices is carried out by analogy, they operate general principles and a single work algorithm:
- First, a socket box is attached, which is a bowl or platform;
- Then the light switch is directly connected by creating the correct connections between the live wires and the control unit;
- Then the mechanism is fixed on a plate or in a glass socket using screws or spacers;
- At the end, the results of the efforts are closed with a lid and the keys are put on.
The main snag is the correct connection of the wires to the operating and control element of the switch. And to cope with this problem, you need to understand the connection diagram.
Switching device connection diagram
Failure to follow the rules for installing the light switch can result in overheating, followed by sparking and shorting. Another very unpleasant consequence– maintaining voltage in the wiring. Because of this, even after turning off the lamp, it will be impossible to replace the burnt-out element without feeling the delights of a household electric shock.
Let’s protect ourselves and our property, remember the mysterious “phases” and “zeros”. Let’s find out and forever remember what needs to be connected to what:
- Zero or, as is customary in the world of electricians, the zero wire is output to the lighting fixture.
- The phase goes to the switch. A circuit must be closed within the phase conductor in order for the light bulb to light up and go out. It is precisely when the switch is turned to zero that is exactly the opposite, the light will come on and go off at the owner’s order, but changing the lamp can only be done after traveling to the switchboard and completely disconnecting the bathhouse from power.
- A phase section also goes from the lamp to the switch. The circuit will switch off and on from key clicks at the point where the phase channel breaks. Those. at the place where the phase section leading to the light bulb begins and the phase wire coming out of the switch ends.
This means that you need to connect both a phase and a neutral wire to the lamp, and only one to the switch - the phase. Notice that all these tricky weaves are in distribution box. In fact, they are of interest to home craftsmen who are installing a switch in an unfurnished room or who have decided to upgrade an existing system.
All connections of current-carrying areas are made in the junction box. It is not advisable to connect wires in plastic channels or in a wall due to complications with identifying and repairing damaged areas. If there is no distribution box near the installation site, you can extend the phase and neutral from the input panel.
The described principles for installing a single-key switch also apply to devices for turning on two or more lighting points. Accordingly, they have two or more keys. The difference is that each of the keys is supplied with a phase segment from the lamp, the operation of which it is obliged to control. There is only one phase from the distribution box to the switch with any number of keys.
Color and marking of current-carrying channels
In the vast majority of cases, owners of bathhouses, houses, and apartments trust electricians to improve the circuit with a new device. Dealing with the intricacies of the distribution box is often simply not the time or the hand. Most often the reason for exerting effort home handyman It happens that a switch is replaced when phase and neutral current-carrying channels are already connected to the installation point.
Attention. New installation switch or its replacement is carried out only if the entire range of wires forming the electrical conductive circuit is present.
To ensure that inexperienced electricians do not have difficulty determining the phase with zero, the external insulation of the current-carrying conductors has a “combat” coloring:
- the phase core will be covered with a white or brown sheath;
- The blue color of the dielectric protection will announce: this is zero;
- yellow or green colors of various shades - grounding.
According to the color clues, you should determine how to install and what to connect the light switch to. An additional service from the manufacturer is the application of markings on the mechanism itself for specific guidance on entry and exit issues. Connection points are designated by the letter L with a number. For example, on a two-key device, L3 represents the phase input. Nothing else will be found near it. On the opposite side of the device, connection points L1 and L2 are located in a row, each of which must be connected to a separate lighting fixture.
Stick or clamp: which is easier?
For simplicity and reliability of forming connections, the connection points of the switch are equipped with plug-in and screw devices:
- The plug-in contacts firmly clamp the wire stripped to 1 cm with a spring. In order to disassemble the connection, there is a button on the opposite side of the plug-in device that operates on the “press and release” principle;
- The screw contact must be tightened with a screwdriver, having previously placed about 2 cm of stripped wire under the terminal. There should not be a millimeter of insulation under the terminal, otherwise it will melt and become a threat to the owners.
No one observes a fundamental difference in reliability aspects between both options. However, it is easier and faster to stick in. Therefore, switches with plug-in contacts are strongly recommended by hardware store salespeople for inexperienced craftsmen. Electricians agree with them.
How to install a surface-mounted switch
Russian bathhouses are predominantly wooden. There are few people willing to lay an electrical circuit in them covertly. For open wiring devices, they now produce a lot of nice products in retro style covered with superior insulation. The company will need a surface-mounted switch for them. Let's talk about the sequence of its installation.
Let's assume we have already acquired a switch for open wiring. It is factory assembled, there is only one key. We will install and connect a new surface-mounted light switch in the following sequence:
- Using a slotted screwdriver, carefully pick out and remove the key, then remove the protective and decorative cover.
- Disconnect the working mechanism.
- Dismantled. All that was left in his hands was the socket plate. It has holes for mounting to the wall.
- Let's attach the plate to the installation site, just in case, mark the points and the line of the upper edge. Let's check that it is clearly horizontal. Do not forget that all subsequent parts will be attached to the socket box. If we distort it, then everything else will go to the same steppe.
- We fasten the platform-socket box, precisely aligned horizontally, with galvanized screws. You shouldn’t make a mistake even by a couple of mm - wood “does not like” nearby holes.
- We cut the wires with maximum precision in accordance with the type of contacts. It is desirable that after all operations there is no excess wire under the decorative cover.
- We connect the mechanism to the wiring, following the marking prompts and in accordance with the color of the wire.
- We check the quality of the created connection with a multimeter screwdriver or a more complex electrical tester.
- Everything is fine? We screw the mechanism.
- We put the lid in its rightful place and snap the key.
This completes the installation process.
Installation and connection of a closed switch in pictures
A completely simple process. Disassembled - correctly installed and connected - reassembled.
There are a minimum of components, and there probably won’t be any extra nuts after assembly. It is impossible to get confused if you find out in advance what connects to what. Everything literally encourages you to test your own strengths as a novice electrician. The main thing is not to forget about safety rules, otherwise the current strength will test your strength.
Switches appeared at the same moment when man came up with the idea of lighting the rooms in which he was located. Despite the huge variety of their types, designs, sizes and bells and whistles, they perform two main tasks - turn the light on and off. This work is based on simple principle, which will be discussed in this article.
The instructions for installing lighting yourself - from the switch to the light bulb - are based on it. The switch can control any type of lighting and any amount of it, the main thing is to understand the principle of its operation and take everything into account technical nuances in order to correctly install the lighting in the apartment and connect everything together without the help of an electrician.
What are they?
- The classic and most common option is a regular single-key light switch. It is designed to control one group of lighting elements - a chandelier, lamp or night light. It is installed where such control is relevant. Pros: simple installation of a single-key switch, low price. Disadvantages - the inability to connect several independent groups of lighting fixtures to a light switch with one key. The diagram of a single-key switch will be presented below.
- A more advanced option is two buttons. It gives relatively greater freedom in organizing and planning the lighting system of premises. You can already connect two groups of light bulbs here. Typically, this scheme is used to distinguish between main and additional lighting in living rooms and kitchens. One button turns on the main light, and the second turns on additional lighting above work areas. This option is much more economical and neater than placing two one-button options side by side.
- A very rare, but still used in everyday life, version of a light bulb switch is with three buttons. It is again used to distinguish between different lighting fixtures along the wires. Found application in bedrooms and living rooms, where huge chandeliers with several levels of light bulbs are usually installed. Sometimes it is used to organize street lighting - by stretching the wires, you can turn on the lights in different places from one switch. It looks very compact and neat, it has only two drawbacks: it is more expensive than its previous analogues, and the keys on it are relatively thin - you can miss it by turning on the wrong light. The lamp connection diagram is very simple, even for him.
- In addition to turning the lights on and off, they can also adjust the brightness of the lights. The design of such a mechanism is more complex, and this possibility is relevant only for LEDs, where the brightness of the crystals depends on the strength of the current passing through them. Such models are called “dimmers”, they are made in the form of regulators various types. When switched off, no current passes through them, and the lights do not shine. When you gradually turn the knob, the dimmer begins to skip large quantity current up to maximum. This will only work with LEDs (not even all light bulbs, usually this trick is suitable for LED strips). Try not to power incandescent and fluorescent lamps through the dimmer - this can lead to their damage and burning.
- One way to make this work is to add a small lighting element to the button. It lights up in the off position, telling a person in the dark where the light switch is. Very useful thing in large or, conversely, cramped spaces. However, this type of switch is associated with a very popular problem that owners of fluorescent and LED light bulbs face - blinking when turned off. This problem can be solved so simply that there is absolutely no reason to refuse such a convenient thing. Moreover, small light bulbs are installed on absolutely all the types described above, there are no restrictions.
- Let’s complete the classification by mentioning that the execution of models on modern market so diverse that they can be chosen for literally any design, color and purpose. Despite the fact that they will seem completely different, their operating principle is the same - we will talk about it later.
Principle of operation
Why is the light shining? Because electricity is supplied to it. It doesn't shine because there is no electricity. This is exactly what the switch does - it mechanically breaks the circuit with the light bulb through which current flows to it from the general network. To understand how he does this, you need to look inside.
We see that the white buttons that we press in everyday use are only decorative elements. They are attached to the housing with special clips and set in motion ceramic walkers, which control the electrical circuit. The operation of such a mechanism and how to connect a single-key switch will be clearly shown later in the article.
When turned off, it breaks the phase, and as a result, the light bulbs do not light. The ground and zero of the lamps, roughly speaking, are common; they go bypassing the switch. The phase will have to be powered separately to each button to separate the circuits.
How to connect yourself?
All types are connected in exactly the same way, differing only in the number of wires, which directly depends on the keys in the switch.
How to properly connect a light switch? Simple instructions will be presented with the assumption that a power cable has already been laid under the switch, and it sticks out of the wall in the place where we will install it. Be sure to follow safety precautions when working with electricity - de-energize the entire system using a general switch, carefully insulate all connections, and tighten the contacts securely. Let's start with how to connect a single-key switch.
- How to connect a light switch? It's the easiest to connect. To do this, you need only three wires - ground, neutral, phase. The connection of the lamp will be done through a distribution box, through which the ground and working zero are directly passed through, connecting to the light bulbs. The operating phase is the wire that provides the electrical load, which is first inserted into the distribution box and then connected to the switch. From there, the wire returns to the box and is directly connected to the light bulb. Thus, in the off state, only zero and ground will be connected to the lamp, and the phase on the light bulb will be broken at the switch contacts. The contact is connected when turned on, the load is supplied in phase, the light bulb lights up. Below is a wiring diagram for a single-key switch.
- There are some differences in wiring a two-button switch. How to connect a light bulb through a switch in this case? Here the ground and phase wires are inserted into the box, each of them is divided in two for connection to the lamps. The operating phase wire is also inserted into the switch through the box, where it is connected to each circuit breaking mechanism separately. From them two wires are led to a box from which they are connected to the light bulbs. The light switch connection diagram is similar, only there are two buttons.
Here you should pay attention to the switch itself. WITH reverse side it will have three contacts. Where there is only one, the phase is connected from the network. Where there are two of them, two phases are output to the lamps. If you follow this little tip, the electrical wiring will be installed correctly, you will never mix up the connection and connection sides.
- For a three-key switch the story is the same. From the box, ground and zero are tripled for each group of light bulbs, and three phases come out of the switch, which are connected accordingly.
Here is a diagram for connecting a light bulb without grounding. Some networks are not provided for connecting the ground, so you can completely do without it, simply by not running it in parallel with zero.
Installation of the structure
We already said a little higher that special holes should be drilled in the wall - socket boxes, where it will be installed metal carcass with an already powered network onto special clamps.
On the sides of this frame there will be rectangular teeth that will hold it in the wall. The fastening must be strong, not loose in the socket and not fall out.
After installing the frame, a decorative surface is placed on top of it, with which we come into contact every day after connecting the light switch with one key.
Conclusion
A switch is an indispensable element of any lighting scheme; without it, it simply will not function. Modern variety mechanisms allows you to connect lamps to it in a huge number of variations, and Beautiful design will make the switch as inconspicuous as possible and fit harmoniously into the overall interior of the room.
You can connect the light bulb to the switch yourself. Be sure to use safe way work with electricity, check the serviceability of the wires and the quality of the contact connections before connecting to the network.
U
installing a light switch in an apartment is not such a serious problem that you would have to pay for the expensive services of a hired electrician. How to install the switch correctly, whether it is a two-gang switch or a backlit switch, you will find out here.
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If you need to simply replace a faulty device, then installing the switch yourself takes just a few minutes. If the question of how to install a switch arose when installing a new circuit, then it will take much more time. In this case, you must first decide at what height to install the switches and the type.
A small retreat- Only in Russian a device that closes an electrical circuit is called a switch. In other languages, there is a seemingly more logical one - “switch”, which gives reason to giggle at “these Russian klutzes”. But it's not that simple. Many models work just like a double switch, i.e. they close one group of contacts while simultaneously opening another. In addition, the most important task of any electrical appliance is the safety of the circuit it controls. From this point of view, just the word "switch" is more correct, because you can turn on the light bulb simply by screwing it in, which, by the way, was practiced before.
At what height should switches be installed?
The installation height of the switch above the floor has absolutely nothing to do with the power requirements or other characteristics of the lighting circuit and is dictated only by ease of use. Previously, switches were installed approximately at eye level for a person of average height, in last years It has become popular to place them at a height of about a meter from the floor, so that you can turn on the light without raising your hand.
In the same way, the location does not matter much, as long as it is convenient to use the switch.
External and built-in switches
Now the type of wiring. Exists open and closed wiring, That is, laid on the surface of the structure (openly, or in a special box), or closed. You can find out more about it in the corresponding material on the site. Accordingly, switches can be external or built-in. The first are placed on the surface, the second in a box built into the wall.
Let's first consider how to install a switch with hidden wiring, since this is a more complex option.
Almost any room uses electric lighting, and switches are used to control it, so sooner or later there is a need to replace them or install new equipment. From an electrical point of view, there is nothing complicated about this, but in order for the circuit to work reliably and safely, and in the future to be convenient to maintain and repair, you need to know some of the subtleties characteristic of this type of work.
Single Key Light Switches
Important! Before carrying out installation and connection work, be sure to turn off the voltage in the distribution box, then use an indicator screwdriver to check whether current is flowing to the place where the work is being performed.
Checking with an indicator screwdriver is mandatory, since switchboards often use single-pole circuit breakers that break only one wire. If such a machine was mistakenly installed in the neutral wire, then after it is turned off, the current will still flow through the wires.
Lighting is used in the most various rooms and conditions. Apply Various types light sources. Therefore, there are a wide variety of types of switching elements. A single switch is the simplest type, but once you understand it, you can connect more complex elements.
If we consider the switch as an element electrical diagram, then this is an open contact that has only two connectors for connection. Most often these are screw connections, that is, the connected wires are clamped with screws using a screwdriver. Self-clamping connectors may also be found. To connect to them, you need to strip the conductor of insulation and insert it all the way into the corresponding hole.
According to the installation method, they are divided into two groups:
- external;
- internal.
An external single-key switch is installed directly on the wall surface, and an internal one - in a special mounting box located inside the wall.
What's the best way to install a light switch?? There is no clear answer here, because each installation method has its own advantages.
It is better if all the elements are installed inside the wall, since in this case the conductive parts will be hidden and protected from damage, which will protect you from electric shock. But to do this, it is necessary to punch paths in the wall for laying wires, recesses for installing mounting and junction boxes, and then re-plaster the walls.
All this work is very labor-intensive and is not required in the case of external installation, when all elements are attached to the wall surface, and the cables can be hidden in a special box or protective corrugated tube.
Replacing the old switch
First, let's consider the case when a repair is being carried out, and it is necessary to replace a faulty switching device with a new one, but the cables and other elements are in good condition. The biggest difficulty here is how to disassemble and reassemble the switch.
If the switch is outdoor, locate the screws that secure the protective cover.. Unscrew them, remove the cover and remove the screws or screws (usually there are two) that secure the device to the wall, and the terminals will become accessible.
In order to disassemble the internal one, first carefully pry up the key with a thin screwdriver and remove it, after which you can unscrew the screws located under it and remove the decorative plastic panel. There are two screws on the sides that secure the device to the mounting box, loosen them and remove the switch.
After you have disassembled the switch, all you have to do is loosen the screws on the terminals (no need to unscrew them completely) and pull out both wires. It is not necessary to mark the wires; their connection can be arbitrary.
Disassemble the new switch, connect to wires and reassemble by following the above steps in reverse order. Particular attention should be paid to tightening the screws on the terminals; loose tightening may lead to heating of the connection point and cause a fire.
Description of the connection process
Now let's look at how to properly connect a light switch from scratch. The connection diagram for a single-key switch is simple. In order for the lamp to light up, two wires are connected to it - phase and zero. In order for the light to be turned off, you need to cut one of the wires and connect a switching device into this gap.
When replacing lamps, you may touch the live part of the socket and receive an electric shock. To avoid this, be sure to install the switch in a phase wire break.
Regardless of the installation method, in practice it looks like this:.
- The main cable is laid, which goes from the power source to the lamp. It is located along the wall at a distance of 150 mm from the ceiling.
- The wire from the switch is routed vertically upward.
- At the intersection of the supply wire and the wire coming from the switch, a junction box is installed in which all the necessary wire connections are made.
Now you can start assembling the circuit. The wiring will be done with a two-core cable. For the convenience of performing this operation, the length of the wires coming out of the box is made such that their ends extend out of it by 20 centimeters; the wires with which the remaining elements of the circuit will be connected are made of the same length. The ends of the wires are stripped of insulation. Connections are made in the following sequence:
Connection of conductors
There are several ways to connect conductors in a box:
- If single-core aluminum or copper wires are used, they can be twisted together and insulated with PVC tape, and the length of the twist must be at least 25 mm.
- If the wires are multi-core (each wire consists of large number thin wires), they are connected using special terminals. If the terminals are closed, then there is no need to insulate them. The choice of terminal type is quite wide, but the main requirement for them is to ensure reliable contact at the junction. In addition, when choosing, it is necessary to take into account the cross-section of the wires.
- If the wires are copper, they can be connected by soldering, and the soldering area can be insulated.
Please note that copper and aluminum wires should not be connected together. Such a compound quickly oxidizes, begins to heat up and becomes a fire hazard. If necessary, use a terminal block where the copper and aluminum will not touch.
Connecting multiple lamps
You can connect two light bulbs to one switch. To do this, they need to be connected in parallel and connected to the wire going to the lamp. The number of lamps with this connection is limited only by the rated current of the switch itself, but all lamps will turn on and off simultaneously. For separate operation it is necessary to use other switching elements.
If, for ease of use, you decide to install a backlit switch, then you must take one point into account. Many modern energy-saving lamps and LED-based lamps will flash periodically with this design, and you will have to either change the lamps or turn off the backlight.
In conclusion, I would like to remind you once again about strict adherence to safety regulations at all stages of the work. Pay special attention to the reliability of the connection of conductors and the insulation of these places.
