You can often come across requests for help in repairing and rewinding the coils of burnt-out speakers; articles on this topic have been on the Internet for a long time, but we decided to make our own. So, I got my hands on a burnt-out Pioneer subwoofer speaker from a TS-WX303 subwoofer; the rated power of the speaker is about 250 Watts. It seems to me that the former owner went too far with the power and as a result our speaker burned out.
When you press the diffuser, a clearly audible grinding sound is produced, this is the coil rubbing against the magnetic core, possibly falling apart, after disassembling the speaker everything will become clear. The main difficulty is to disassemble the speaker, because it is very important not to damage the speaker suspension, it’s good when the suspensions are rubber, such ones come off and come off with a bang, in the case of foam rubber and their analogues, everything is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.
So, a photo of my patient:
Personally, I disassemble speakers in one of two ways, thin blade, or by soaking in a solvent. In the second case, you need to work strictly outside or in a well-ventilated area, but not at home or in the entrance. You need to prepare in advance all the tools necessary for repairs, perhaps primary tools for dismantling the suspension and centering washer. The centering washer is located under the diffuser, usually yellow color made of thick pressed mesh fabric.
For soaking, you can use a syringe, draw the solvent into the syringe and carefully spray the outer parts of the suspension, in the place where it is glued to the “basket”. Soaking usually takes a long time; in 5 minutes you will not separate the suspension from the speaker body. The centering washer is soaked in exactly the same way.
This is not the first time I have rewinded speakers, and the dismantling operation for this speaker took me about 5-7 minutes. After soaking, we unsolder the conductive wires from the terminals and remove the diffuser with the coil from the frame. In principle, it is possible and necessary to unsolder the wires before soaking, it will be more convenient... We look at the photo of the coil of my burnt speaker:
The photo clearly shows overheated and charred turns of copper wire; this coil will have to be unwinded completely and rewound again. Some unscrupulous repairmen practice the following type of repair: they unwind part of the burnt wire and connect the break points together by soldering. Naturally, such a “homeless repair” will not last long; in addition, after unwinding some of the turns from the coil, it will noticeably reduce the total resistance of the speaker, which will certainly affect the power.
In general, if the coil is more or less alive, you can leave it, after soaking the coil with varnish, it will last - but not for long. This option is applicable for beginners, for those who are afraid to rewind the coil due to certain circumstances (for example, there is no necessary wire for rewinding).
Ideally, the speaker coil should be wound with BF-2 glue. It's not easy to find, but it's the most the best option. We glue the suspension rubber glue 88, it is usually sold in small jars in construction stores, this glue is used to glue carpets onto subwoofers:
Finding the right wire is also a problem, good wire donors are contactor (starter) coils, which are sold separately in electrical equipment stores and are not expensive, this is exactly the wire I use. The required wire can also be found in the demagnetization loop of picture tubes (CRT), a sample of my wire for winding is shown below in the photo:
I removed this wire and rewound it just from the starter, the diameter of the wire is approximately 0.35, by the way, it’s too much to rewind thin wire not recommended because The speaker power will drop sharply. If you take a wire thinner than it was, then you will have to make a little more turns than there were, otherwise the resistance of the speaker will be less.
You need to wind the wire turn by turn, winding a speaker is a delicate and labor-intensive task, the main thing is not to abandon everything halfway... I wound it with a wire of approximately the same cross-section, I got 4 layers in total, covered each layer with BF-2 glue and let it dry for about two hours. Determining the required length of a new wire with sufficient accuracy is not so difficult; you need to calculate the length of one turn (knowing its radius), multiply by the number of turns in the layer and the number of layers. My speaker required about 20 meters of enamel wire. The diameter of the wire is determined using a micrometer or caliper. For winding, it is better to use a specialized machine, which greatly simplifies the entire winding process; if you don’t have such a machine, you will have to wind the coil manually.
After the glue has dried, we begin to assemble the speaker. I note that gluing the centering washer and the suspension at the same time is highly not recommended, because with a 99% probability, after the glue dries, your speaker will groan. First you need to glue either the centering washer or the suspension (I glue the first). That is, we coat the edges of the washer and the gluing points on the speaker body with a brush, let it dry a little and carefully put the diffuser on the body so that the coil does not rub against the magnetic core.
It will be difficult the first time, so you can coat the washer with glue not entirely, but only at several points; if centering is successful, you can re-glue it.Next, we glue the suspension; when connecting the suspension to the speaker basket, you need to center the suspension itself in parallel, so that there are no rustling or grinding noises when the diffuser moves. Then we solder the conductive copper wires (conductors) going from the coil to the speaker terminals and let the speaker dry for 24 hours.
There is another, more accurate option for centering the coil, but to do this you will have to remove the cap from the diffuser. After removing the cap, we put the diffuser and coil in the basket, then take A4 paper, cut it along the wide side lengthwise into two halves and roll it into a tube of approximately the same diameter as the core of our speaker and carefully insert it into the gap between the core and the coil, then You can safely glue the centering washer with the suspension. After the glue has dried, pull out the paper and glue the cap back on.
Most dynamic heads are not intended for disassembly and are, as it were, disposable (non-separable, difficult to repair) components speaker systems. In practice, it is successful to disassemble the speaker standard design and it is often possible to reassemble it. The main task is to soften the glue that holds many components dynamics, and separating them from each other without injury or deformation.
If you have questions about rewinding speakers, ask them here, we will try to help!
Today, the number of lovers of good sound who simply throw away a wheezing speaker is not decreasing! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can amount to a significant amount. I think that the following will help anyone who has hands that grow from the right place to fix the speaker.
Available - a miracle of design thought, which was once a column S-30 (10AC-222), now performing the functions of one of the autosubs. A week after the mutation, the patient began to show signs of the disease - he made extraneous sounds when practicing bass lines, and wheezed slightly. A decision was made to perform an autopsy.
After the autopsy, the diseased organ was removed from the patient's body - a woofer 25GDN-1-4 produced in 1986. The organ clearly needed surgery - when you gently pressed the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click), and when ringing with different tones (produced by the nchtoner program), a clearly audible scratching-crackling sound was heard with a large stroke of the diffuser and when applying ultra-low (5-15 Hz) ) frequencies. It was decided to trepanate this organ
First, the patient's flexible lead wires were unsoldered (from the side of the contact pads)
Then, with a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as “Moment”), using a syringe with a needle, the place where the dust cap and diffuser were glued together (around the perimeter) was moistened...
Place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (along the perimeter)...
And the place where the diffuser itself is glued to the diffuser holder basket (again around the perimeter)
The speaker was left in this state for about 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three steps (as the solvent was absorbed/evaporated)
Attention! When working with solvent, you should observe safety precautions - avoid contact with skin (work with rubber gloves!) and mucous membranes! Don't eat or smoke! Work in a well-ventilated area!
When wet - use a small amount solvent, avoiding getting it into the place where the coil and centering washer are glued!
Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can carefully pry up the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to apply significant force, repeat the operation by wetting its edges with solvent and waiting!
After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).
By this time the centering washer has time to come off. Carefully, without any effort, separate it from the diffuser holder basket. if necessary, re-wet the gluing area with solvent.
We wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait... We wet it again and wait again... After 10 minutes you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should effortlessly separate from the diffuser holder (along with the coil and centering washer). But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is to be careful! Do not damage the rubber suspension!!!) 
We clean the gluing areas from old glue and dry the disassembled speaker. We examine the disassembled patient to determine if there is a malfunction. Let's look at the reel. If there are no abrasions or loose threads on it, we leave it alone. When a thread comes off, glue it back on. thin layer glue BF-2.
We carefully inspect the place where the supply wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction found in old speakers with a large diffuser stroke. The supply wire at the attachment point is frayed/broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread running through the center!
Carefully bend the copper “tendrils”...
And unsolder the supply wire.
We repeat the operation for the second transaction (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)
We cut off the supply wires at the break point...
And we tin the resulting ends (of course, we first use rosin). Care is required here! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wiring like a sponge!
Carefully solder the wiring into place, bend the copper “tendrils” and glue it with glue (Moment, BF-2) where the wiring connects to the diffuser. Let us remember - you cannot solder wires to the fastening “antennae”! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years?
Assembling the speaker. We place the diffuser with all the “equipment” in the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places where they are attached. Then we check the correct polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” speaker, the diffuser will “jump” out of the basket. We place the diffuser so that its “+” supply wire is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.
We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin, to maintain the length.
We center the diffuser in its basket using photographic film (or thick paper), which we place in the gap between the core and the coil. The main rule is to place the centering evenly around the perimeter to maintain the same gap. The amount (or thickness) of centering should be such that when the diffuser is slightly protruded outward, it will freely rest on it and not fall inward. For the 25GDN-1-4 speaker, 4 pieces of photographic film, placed in pairs in front of each other, are enough for this. The length of the photographic film should be such that it does not interfere if you place the speaker on the diffuser. For what - read below. Glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend “Moment”, main criterion choice so that the glue can later be dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the diffuser holder basket, then I apply a thin layer of glue to it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally pressing the washer to the basket around the perimeter using my fingers . Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, avoiding distortion).
We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under a load (this is why our photographic film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!)...
Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the movement of the diffuser with our fingers. It should walk easily, without making overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and the core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and feed it low-frequency tones at a low volume. There should be no extraneous sounds. If the gluing is incorrect (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be unstuck (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With high-quality assembly, 99% of the time we will get a fully working speaker.
We coat the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Care and precision are required here - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it greatly spoils appearance dynamics. When gluing, do not press on the center of the cap!!! This may cause it to bend and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and glue it back.
We wait until all the parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy the sound, which is no worse than that of a new factory similar speaker.
That's it, now you see that fixing the speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So, in an hour, you can leisurely repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker, domestic or imported (for gluing up imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, be careful - they are poisonous!!!) that has a similar defect.
Yes, after the operation, the former patient got his second wind and the cheerful yellow subs continue to do their hard bass work.
Music in the car is a pleasure and entertainment on the road, but there is one unpleasant moment. The speakers in the car are constantly exposed to dust and dirt, all sorts of debris flies in from the street, the speakers in the rear parcel shelf of hatchbacks especially suffer from this. Over time, so much debris accumulates in them that the diffuser begins to make a terrible grinding noise during operation.
There are a couple of car, three-way, coaxial speakers measuring 6x9" with the above symptoms. I’ll say right away that when working you need to use maximum caution, accuracy and patience, if this is not your thing, then it’s better not to even start.
In the preface, I would like to remind you a little theory about the design and operation of dynamic heads; this will make it easier for me to further explain the process in the text.
The basis of the dynamic head (speaker) is the basket, the frame on which everything rests. A diffuser is glued into the wide part of the basket through a suspension. The diffuser produces sound when it vibrates, and the suspension ensures its freedom of movement. The diffuser is usually dome shaped and can be made from pressed paper, polypropylene or even aluminum. The suspension is usually made of rubber; in low-power bass and midrange speakers, it is made of paper. At the constriction of the diffuser there is a coil that moves on a core (core) around the magnet. The permanent magnet increases the EMF of the electromagnetic field, thereby increasing the movement of the diffuser. The coil on the core is centered with a washer creating the necessary uniform gap between the coil. The centering washer is also glued to the speaker basket; without it, the coil would touch the magnet or core. Wires are led from the coil to the diffuser and from it, through flexible “antennae”, to the contact pad for connection to audio equipment.
Crunching and noise in the operation of the speaker occurs due to debris trapped between the coil and the core during their operation (movement). Such garbage may contain metal particles and other magnetic dust, which is difficult to remove. in a simple way. In this case speaker repair starts with disassembling them. I would like to immediately make a reservation that the speakers by their design are not intended for disassembly and, accordingly, the manufacturers of these speakers do not provide for this in their design. But everything that has been assembled can be disassembled, you just need to put your head and hands in the right way.
Disassembling the speaker begins with unsoldering the current-carrying conductors from the diffuser to the terminal block. In our case, this is a multi-way car speaker on the core of which two more smaller ones are attached - midrange and high-frequency speakers. The conductors also need to be unsoldered from them, and the housing securing them to the core must be unscrewed with a screw passing through the core from the magnet side. In a regular speaker, there is a dust cap in this place of the diffuser and there is no need to remove it.
The next step in speaker repair there will be a separation of the diffuser from the basket. We will separate the diffuser along with the suspension, coil and centering washer. Plants and factories usually use glue similar to the domestic “moment”, so I dissolve it with acetone. We fill a regular medical syringe with acetone and wet the suspension in the places where it is glued to the basket. It’s good if you can bend the suspension a little and work underneath it, closer to the glue. We do the same with the centering washer, but don’t pour a lot of acetone, you can peel off something you need.
It can take quite a long time before acetone takes effect, and you need to periodically re-wet it with acetone because it quickly erodes. When separating the diffuser, you do not need to pull on it, you can tear or deform the suspension and the diffuser itself, you can help with a flat screwdriver using it as a spatula. You need to act carefully, slowly, especially when working with sharp objects, otherwise you can easily damage the diffuser and all the work is a waste, and the speaker is a waste. If it does not come off, it is better to add acetone and wait. After separating the diffuser, we move on to the centering washer; it must be handled with the same care and done the same.
Having separated the diffuser from the basket, you can proceed to cleaning the hole around the core (core). To be honest, there are no special recipes here and cleaning a magnet from metal debris is not easy. The gap is very narrow and it is impossible to get there with any brushes. I was able to clean it using a metal paper clip (photo below) which was magnetized on its own and the metal debris stuck to it. You can try with a wooden or plastic stick; sometimes you can blow it with air under high pressure. In general, we clean it as best we can, the main thing is that there is no debris left around the core. It is also necessary to clean the coil itself; a lot of debris also sticks to it. It must be handled no less carefully than other parts; it can be damaged. round shape and then you will have to look for a suitable round mandrel and straighten it, otherwise there will be even more noise from the speaker than before. By the way, in the photo below you can see how the aluminum frame of the coil is eaten away by debris during operation, it happens that the wire frays and a break occurs, in this case a new coil is wound, which will require even more time, concentration and action.
Upon completion of the cleaning, we can say that we have mastered speaker repair, but it remains to be assembled, and this also has its own nuances.
Assembly is done in the reverse order by gluing the elements into place, but you must not just glue them, but glue them evenly! To do this, you need to find an old, unnecessary x-ray or a piece of photographic film, and cut it to a size so that it, rolled into a tube, fits into the gap between the coil and the core (core). This film will help us center the coil and set an even gap. It is advisable to take the thickness of the film such that it fits tightly into the gap without backlash. We place the diffuser in the basket and center the coil with film, align and position it exactly on the basket. First of all, we glue the centering washer; we will glue regular glue"moment". We smear the gluing area and press it, in fact we do it as written in the instructions for the glue. It’s inconvenient to press, so regular clothespins will help. We definitely need to wait for the glue to set, otherwise our centering may go wrong. As soon as the glue grabs the washer, glue the diffuser to the basket, but do not remove the film, let it remain until the glue dries completely. After gluing the diffuser, you can put the rim around the suspension in place, turn the speaker over, placing it on a flat surface and press it with something heavy. Once the glue has completely dried, check the movement of the diffuser by gently pressing it with your fingers, no extraneous sounds there should not be, the diffuser should move in and out easily and without jamming. If yes, then we did everything correctly and centered it well, if not, we will have to repeat everything.
Upon completion of the work with glue and the successful completion of the task of removing debris from the bowels of the speaker, all that remains is to replace the midrange speakers on the cores and solder all the wires in place.
P.S. The metal mesh cover that usually comes with the speaker practically does not protect it from dust and small debris. In the future, in order for the speaker to live longer without repair, I can advise you to glue ordinary women’s nylon tights in two or three layers inside this protective mesh. Through such a filter, small debris will not get inside, the appearance and the speaker itself will be preserved, and the sound will pass through without problems.
This is where I end the article. speaker repair and I hope that the information will be useful to you.
Probably every radio amateur, and not only radio amateurs, has burnt speakers at home. This can happen to anyone. Breakdown of output transistors, overload, or manufacturing defects and much more can lead to failure of the coil inside the speaker. I want to tell you about my case. Dynamic head 25GDN-3-4.
She left us, going into the world of spirits, while listening to hard rock :) She left beautifully. At first she began to wheeze heavily, and then thick and stinking smoke poured out of her. The dust protection cap has melted. After disassembly, it turned out that half the coil had also burned out.
It is not difficult to rewind it, but the work requires patience. I only managed to wind the reel the second time. So, let's start repairing the speaker.
Stage 1 - collection of information. In reference books or on the Internet. You need to find data about the speaker itself, and especially about the coil. It will have to be made from scratch. Dynamic head specifications:
— Effective operating frequency range — 50 — 5000 Hz
— Level of characteristic sensitivity — 84 dB/W*m
— Frequency response unevenness — 14 dB
— Total harmonic distortion — 3 — 6%
— Nominal electrical resistance — 4 Ohms
— Maximum noise (nameplate) power — 25 W
— Limit long-term power — 30 W
— Maximum short-term power — 70 W
— Main resonance frequency — 55 ±10 Hz
— Equivalent volume — 8 Vas Liter
— Total quality factor — 0.5 ±0.5 Qts
— Diffuser diameter — 110 mm
— Magnet dimensions — d110x16 mm
- Are common dimensions— d125x79 mm (my measurements — d125x73 mm)
— Weight — 2000 g
— OST 4.383001-85
And the speaker coil data:
— Wire brand — PETV-1
— Wire diameter — 0.224 mm
— Number of winding layers — 2
— Number of turns in the 1st layer — 47
— Number of turns in the 2nd layer — 46
— Ohmic resistance — 3.1 ±0.4 Ohm
- Height voice coil— 22.5 mm
— Internal diameter — 25.4 mm
— External diameter, including winding — 26.6 mm
There is information. We select the required wire diameter and move on to the second stage.
Stage 2 – disassembling the speaker. We unsolder the multi-core wires going from the coil to the speaker terminals. For disassembly we need a solvent, a brush and a plastic bag. Solvent for paints. It said 647 on the can. I bought it at a store that sells auto enamels. We need to use it to dissolve the glue that glues the speaker together. To do this, use a brush dipped in solvent to coat the edges of the speaker. And also at the bottom there is a linen centering washer, also along the edges where it is glued. The dust cap also needs to be peeled off. But I didn’t keep it. After impregnation, put the speaker in a plastic bag and tie it. This is so that the solvent does not evaporate so quickly. We wait about ten minutes. Let's take it out and look. The glue should have dissolved. The diffuser can be removed from above by hand, and the membrane from below must be pryed off with a knife or scalpel. If it lags behind heavily, then we repeat the procedure with the solvent and the bag. All work with solvent and glue must be carried out outdoors. I did it on the balcony. I hope everything worked out.
Stage 3 – winding a new coil. For this we need thin and thick paper. As you can see, the height of the coil is 22.5 mm. I cut a strip 300mm long and 22.5mm high. Picked up the phone required diameter. The diameter can be adjusted by wrapping several turns of electrical tape around it. I measured it with a caliper. I wrapped the paper around the tube, coating each turn with glue or varnish. I used glue brand 505. It dries quickly and then becomes hard. It seems to withstand the temperature. Having removed the learned ring from the tube, we measure how it fits into the speaker core. It should go in and out easily with a small gap. If everything is fine, then we put it on the tube again and start winding the wire. Winding in two layers. The first layer is 47, and the second is 46 turns. Lay the coils one to one. The first turn must be secured with glue or varnish. After winding the first layer, soak it with glue. Next is the second layer, and again with glue. After drying, remove the coil from the tube and measure how it fits into the core. It should go in and out easily. If it rubs somewhere, or doesn’t fit at all, we redo it again.
Stage 4 – assembly. We glue the wound coil to the diffuser. You need to try as smoothly as possible. This time you need to use glue that can be dissolved. Suddenly it will need to be disassembled again. To do this, I bought glue for gluing rubber. We solder the coil wiring to the multi-core wires on the diffuser.
The coil with the speaker core needs to be centered using a piece of photographic film or thin plastic. Let's connect. We smooth the linen membrane with a knife or some flat object. To securely fasten the diffuser to the frame, we screw the speaker to a flat surface with self-tapping screws.
We solder the stranded wire to the speaker terminals and wait several hours.
Stage 5 – speaker tests. Unscrew it from the board. We take out the film from the core. By pressing the diffuser with your fingers, we listen to see if there is any friction in the coil. If it jams, then return to step 2. Check the coil resistance with an ohmmeter. Everything is okay? Then we connect it to the amplifier and listen. A properly assembled speaker will sound like new. If there is a slight friction between the spool paper and the core, it should go away over time. In case of friction of the coil wire with the outer iron washer - definitely stage 2. If the tests went well, then glue the dust cap. In my version, I peeled it off with a solvent from another speaker.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated. I think that it would not be advisable to rewind low-power small speakers. But it depends on your desire. Perhaps something can be simplified or done better. Happy rewinding everyone. The speaker was repaired - Boozer.
I like the old big, heavy speakers that were popular in the 90s. Despite their advanced age, they still sound pretty good and produce good bass. Recently I came across a pair of these speakers in a deplorable condition, but I decided to restore them and bring them back to life.
Professional repair of such speakers is very expensive, so it’s quite work equipment often they simply throw it away and buy modern subwoofers that are compact in size.
Will need
For proper repair Rubber or any other elastic gaskets of suitable diameter will be required. To accurately calculate right size spacers, you need to measure the outer diameter of the cardboard cone and the inner diameter of the steel frame, and based on this, look for spacers of the required diameter.
Restoration work
I recorded the entire speaker repair process with a camera. Below is a detailed photo report of all steps.The first step after removing the front panel is to remove the old seal and glue from the speaker circumference. To do this, I used a flat, sharp blade, but this must be done carefully so as not to damage the cardboard cone.
To center the cone while gluing it, you need access to the steel core. In large speakers, it is covered with a cardboard plug (it is glued), which must be carefully removed without damaging the cone. With the cardboard plugs, I managed to pry them off with a sharp knife, after which they came off along the adhesive joint, since they were not glued very tightly.
In small speakers, the dust caps turned out to be tightly glued, so they had to be carefully cut in a circle.
The next step is to accurately center the cone relative to the steel core. The free space between the cone and the core turned out to be different in each of the speakers. As an insulator and a kind of winding, I used strips of ordinary paper, which I pushed into the gap around the core until I achieved the most dense filling.
One of the small speakers required only one and a half turns of paper around the core, resulting in a slight displacement of the cone. Fortunately, in my case this circumstance did not affect the performance of the speaker, but I think that it would have been necessary to take thinner paper to complete two full turns.
For gluing rubber or foam seals, any household glue is suitable, for example, PVA or any similar one, which becomes transparent after drying. Glue is applied to the cone and speaker body along the edge of the hole, after which the gasket is carefully applied. You need to smooth it to the surface for a tighter fit and remove excess glue so as not to disturb the centering.
Once the glue has completely dried, you can remove the paper cup wrapped around the core. To check that the cone is properly balanced, lightly press it with your hand: it should vibrate freely without touching the steel core. If friction is present, all centering work should be redone and a new seal should be glued.
Now you need to install new damper pads around the speakers so that the front panel does not press or contact them. By the way, you can use old gaskets, completely free of glue, if they are in normal (not deformed) condition. The damper pad is glued to any glue. If the inner diameter of the new gasket is slightly smaller and covers rubber compressor(this may create interference), then it needs to be trimmed a little along the inner circumference so that the cone vibrates freely.
To glue the dust caps in place, I did the following:
- I glued a narrow and folded strip of tape to each cap. The result is a convenient loop so that you can move the semicircular part.
- I smeared the edges of the cap with glue.
- Carefully placed the cap in its place and applied a little pressure until the glue set.
