Removing rivets
TO category:
Riveting
Removing rivets
When repairing machines, equipment, household items: kettles, locks, shovels and many others, you often have to separate parts and remove old rivets. In order not to spoil the parts, this operation must be performed using special tools.
They cut off the semicircular head of the rivet with a special chisel, called a jamb, and knock it out of the hole of the parts using a beard. They do it this way:
From one surface of the part, where it is more convenient, the head of the rivet is cut off with a hammer on the jamb. Then support is installed on the opposite side of the parts. Moreover, the support should be taken such that its mass is greater than the mass of the hammer, and the diameter of the tool hole is slightly larger than the diameter of the rivet head. The head of the rivet should fit into the support hole. Place the bit in the center of the rod (in the place where the head was cut off) and knock out the rivet with hammer blows.
Rice. 1. Square. Round head rivet connection details
Rice. 2. Chisel for removing rivet heads (jamb)
If cutting off the head of the rivet is difficult or inconvenient, and the part can be damaged, proceed as follows. The head is sawed off a little, a core mark is placed in its center and the rivet is drilled out. The diameter of the drill should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the rod. If the rivet is not removed during the drilling process, it is finally knocked out with a beard.
Rivets with countersunk heads can only be removed by drilling. If the countersunk head of the rivet is broken, then the rivet can be knocked out with a beard.
Rivets are one of the most primitive types of fasteners. They are used to join sheet steel and tin, as well as plastic and even leather. The connections made using rivets are very strong and removing the rivet is an extremely difficult task. In fact, in order to remove rivet you need to cut off its head, otherwise nothing will work. And it certainly won’t be possible to use this rivet again later. It will only be allowed to throw it away.
You will need
- file, chisel, pliers
Instructions
1. The difficulty in removing rivets also lies in the fact that you need to be extremely careful and tidy so as not to damage the surface from which you are removing it. Rivets are made from various materials with different properties and different strengths. Therefore, choose the removal method primarily depending on the material.
2. Most likely, you will need a lot of time to work, so be patient and the right tools. For tools, prepare a file, chisel, pliers, perhaps even a drill with thin drill. In short, get virtually every choice of tools, since you may need any of these tools.
3. If you are removing a rivet from a metal or similar surface, use a file first. This will be acceptable as long as the head of your rivet itself is above the surface it is joining. If the file does not give the expected results, use a chisel. But be careful, try to scratch the surface as little as possible and not hurt your fingers.
4. Because rivets are not only made from different materials, but also various types, then the approach to removing different types will also be different. So, if the head is not located naturally above the surface for which it serves to connect, but has a countersunk head, use a drill instead of a file and chisel.
5. The drill should be thin, but it must be strictly selected in diameter. First, carefully drill out the countersunk head of the rivet, and then select a rod or similar tool, most importantly, so that it fits correctly in diameter, and try to knock out the head.
6. Once you have mastered the head, carefully use pliers to bend the teeth and pull out the rivet shaft. Process the edges of the hole that remain after the rivet using a method appropriate to the material.
7. In case the rivet needs to be removed from leather product, everything will be more difficult if it is important to you how to damage the surface of the material as little as possible. In this case, only pliers will do. Carefully squeeze the head in several places, and then try to loosen it.
8. If possible, carefully bend the teeth of the rivet and pull out the rod. If the rivet does not give in, pull its head slightly upward from the material with pliers and file it with a file. And then proceed according to the same scheme.
When sewing and repairing clothes, you may need to put riveting. The clasp in the form of a button made of 2 parts (top and bottom) is comfortable to use and lasts quite a long time without wear. However, if you have never encountered this item of sewing accessories, then be sure to thoroughly prepare for its installation. To rivet buttons onto fabric you will need special tools, precision and accuracy. If you make a mistake, you can ruin both the riveting itself and the clothes.
You will need
- - Button;
- – blade or knitting needle;
- – special pliers for rivets (or pliers and a hammer);
- – a piece of soft plastic;
- - scissors;
- – 2 pieces of rubber;
- – highly professional press punch (optional).
Instructions
1. Find special pliers for clothing rivets in a fabric and sewing accessories store. When purchasing them, check the package contents: you will need an attachment that matches the diameter of your rivet, and the pliers themselves with a lock. In order to put a rivet on clothes, you need to make a hole in the canvas in advance. It should be smaller than the base of the sewing accessories. Make a cross-shaped cut with a sharp razor blade or carefully poke a hole with a hot knitting needle.
2. Insert the front of the button into the hole made at the top, and the back of the button at the bottom. It is necessary to attach the parts of the fastener as carefully as possible so that they do not move when riveted.
3. Cut a rectangular shape from soft plastic to better hold the rivet parts. Thick covers for books and school notebooks are suitable for this. Fold the resulting rectangle in half like a book. Now you need to make two holes on it - for the bottom and the back of the rivet. Fix the fittings in the “sockets”, place the fabric with the space marked for the fastener between this simple device.
4. Place slices of rubber on both sides of the button - say, cut from leaky boots, or sanitary pads. When working with pliers, you need to apply a strong force, and you risk deforming the surface of the product.
5. Grasp the rivet with pliers and squeeze the handle of the tool until it stops - you should hear a classic click. You can also use improvised means - ordinary pliers or a hammer. In this case, the rubber gaskets will become necessary condition for successful work.
Helpful advice
If you were unable to install the riveting yourself, contact a workshop that has a special press punch for buttons, eyelets and other accessories. You can purchase such a device in a store. Proceed according to the instructions. In order to strengthen the fastener on clothing with its help, you will not need to make significant efforts.
Very often when the printer is not in use for a long time, it stops accepting paper, blinks all the lights and doesn’t print at all. This means it's time to change the print head. This is allowed to be entrusted to the masters service center, but you can do it independently, so as not to pay extra money.
Instructions
1. Remove the paper feed tray. It is not necessary to remove the cover. Simply open the latch by pressing it with your finger and pull the tray out towards you. After this, remove the false panels by unscrewing the screws. Please note that there are also latches under the screws - press them a little and the plastic will bend back. Grasp the edge of the side panel and slide the panel away from you. To remove the false panel from the other side, follow the same steps.
2. Remove the USB frame. To do this, pull it up and back at the same time. Below it are screws that secure the case. Unscrew both screws and remove the upper part of the housing. Next you will see latches that you need to press and pull the plastic towards you at the same time. After this, you can remove the printer cover by pulling it up.
3. Unlock the carriage to remove the components. Find a huge white gear inside the printer in the left corner. Carefully rotate it with your hands to unlock it. Perform all operations by disconnecting the printer from the network in advance. Before turning on the printer, make sure that the carriage is in the positive position - push it into park.
4. Disconnect all electrical cables and remove the safety plates located on the inside and outside of the carriage. Also remove the contact block for the power supply of the chips. To do this, move the carriage to the right as far as it will go, while simultaneously pressing the latch. Lift the block up and remove its right side.
5. Move the carriage to the left as far as it will go and correctly also remove the power supply for the chips on the left side. A print head will appear in front of you, which is secured with three bolts. Unscrew them, remove the cables from the connectors, and then remove head .
6. Replace head and assemble the printer in reverse order. If you are performing this operation for the first time, then for comfort and to ensure correct assembly, write down all your steps, so that later you can repeat them exactly and not leave any “extra” parts.
Video on the topic
Quite often, home craftsmen fasten various metal connections together; this is where hand riveters become very relevant, because it is with their help that the connection is made quickly, firmly, and without much physical effort.
Introduction
It should be noted that this mechanism is very easy to use, and the regular model is inexpensive. It can be used to fasten any type of metal, and the principle of operation remains the same.
Of course, you can make a rivet with a hammer, but with a large amount of work it will require much more time and effort. Manual riveters make the work process faster, and the effort required for all operations is minimal.
Today, there are different types of manual riveters, each working on its own principle and having its own pros and cons. Which type of riveter is better is determined by each master himself, but several points must be taken into account, which we will consider below.
general description
Modern riveters appeared relatively recently; before that they were bulky and inconvenient for home use. But Full time job engineers working on this problem has yielded results: manual riveters have become compact, and most importantly, they reliably connect parts with each other with minimal physical effort. The device itself has become quite simple and easy to use.
It provides access to both sides for a more reliable connection. In this case, no outside help is required. The main thing you need when working with manual riveters is pre-drilled holes for rivets in the parts to be joined.
Almost anyone can cope with such work. At the same time, the price for manual riveters is low.
Types of hand tools
Today there are two types of manual riveters: pull-out and threaded, the difference in price is not big.
To answer the questions: how to choose a manual, pull-out or threaded riveter, which tool is better, you need to understand their operating principles.
When using a blind rivet gun to fasten a rivet, a certain traction force is created.
IN metal blanks, which will subsequently be connected to each other, you need to drill a hole whose diameter is equal to the diameter of the rivet. After this, fix the rivet on the device, insert it into the hole and squeeze the tool handle.
During operation of the blind riveter, the rivet is expanded by a special ball, which, when the handle is pressed, enters the tube.
Thus, outer side The rivet is flattened, which allows you to firmly fix the parts being connected to each other.
A threaded riveter is also suitable for home work. manual type. Its operating principle is almost the same as that of the previous mechanism. The only difference is that in a threaded riveter the ball is retracted due to the fact that the cut thread rotates.
This type of connection is more optimal for thin-walled parts, where it is quite difficult to cut threads, but this type of connection is needed.
When a threaded manual riveter is used, it is possible to screw a screw or bolt into the rivet.
In most cases for home use They buy manual riveters; they are still more functional and versatile, and at the same time they cost a little less than threaded tools.
Different types of drive
The most common are manual riveters, but devices with various drives are also found. They are pneumatic, pneumohydraulic, and mechanical. Of course, each type has its own price. It also depends on the manufacturer - for more famous brands, accordingly, the price will be higher.
Pneumatic and pneumohydraulic tools are mainly used in production, since their design is more complex. At home, it is better to use manual riveters. When purchased with them, they come with removable heads, which allows you to use rivets of different diameters. Also, a head of the required size, as well as rivets for a manual riveter, can be purchased in a store without any problems.
Connecting parts with a tool
As mentioned above, the most popular in everyday life is a manual type riveter. Part of this device includes sleeve and rod. Now let’s figure out how a manual pull-type riveter works.
First, the sleeve is inserted into a pre-prepared hole, after which we take a rivet gun, which draws the rod into itself. All that remains is to press the handle of the tool and the sleeve will flatten, forming a strong and reliable fastener. All this will take very little time and effort.
This device has its advantages. Firstly, you can work with it even when only one side of the workpiece is free. Also, a manual riveter can be used even while suspended, without using other additional elements.
Of course, you should not forget about the quality of the rivet itself; the reliability of the fastening also depends on this.
Manual riveter: how to use
Using hand tools is easy and does not require any special skills. A properly purchased mechanism will do this job efficiently and quickly. The price when buying a tool should not play a big role, the main thing is to choose a good quality model. This will allow you not to worry about the tightness of the connection and the failure of the tool.
You just need to drill the holes correctly so that the diameter exactly matches the diameter of the rivet itself. We have already described the work of the riveter in detail above. After work, all that remains is to process the reverse flattened side of the rivet, that is, remove the resulting excess with pliers.
Manual riveter: reviews
The Stanley MR99 riveter earned very good reviews from the craftsmen. The pins do not get stuck, they fly out without outside help. Of course, not the cheapest, but it is important that it works well.
The NOVUS J 60 riveter has also been in demand on the market for a long time, this is confirmed by numerous customer reviews. Works well, no problems. But it is suitable for one-time work, since large volumes get your hands tired. Its swivel head is very popular; it makes the tool even more convenient.
The Topex riveter has proven itself very well among consumers. It is inexpensive and suitable for one-time jobs. It is very convenient that the spout can be moved 90 degrees. This makes it possible to rivet in the most inconvenient places.
Also, the GESIPA NTS rivet gun received positive feedback from customers; the price is not cheap, but the German quality does not let us down.
How does a riveter work?
A construction worker or a person involved in the loading and unloading of large metal structures and materials, knows the answer to this.
And for all other people interested in the mechanism of operation of this tool, the explanation is given below.
A riveter is a mechanical tool that allows you to quickly and accurately fasten together sheets whose thickness is three millimeters.
With the same ease, it connects the profile and the corner to each other.
In order to carry out the riveting process, it is necessary to first do preparatory work.
Namely: drill a hole at the intended connection location.
In this case, both ends of this workpiece must protrude from the planes or parts being fastened. When the handle is pressed repeatedly, this part gradually flattens.
When its upper part is flattened as much as possible, the fastening on one side will already hold firmly, resting on the “thick” part.
After the riveting process is completed, the lower “tail” of the rivet part is bitten off with a special tool. You must always take into account the thickness of the parts being fastened. They need to choose the appropriate fastening size. For example, for metal sheets with thickness:
- Up to half a millimeter must be riveted with rivets with a size of 2.4 mm.
- Nine and a half centimeters – 3.2 mm.
- Twelve and a half millimeters - from 4 mm to 4.8 mm.
In this case, the hole for each different rivet must be drilled one millimeter larger than the diameter of the rivet. Accordingly, for a part with a width of 2.4 mm, a hole will be made two and a half millimeters thick, 3.2 mm - 3.3 mm, for 4 mm - 4.1 mm, for 4.8 mm - 4.9 mm .
The strength of a rivet of any size is determined not by its size, but by the quality of the metal, and the power of the resistance provided by the structural elements that were made with the help of rivets. If such pressure is high, the metal rivet gradually softens or deforms.
The operation of the tool is based on the flattening effect due to targeted pressure on a certain part of the piece (workpiece).
Rivets and working with them
An explanation of how a manual riveter works cannot be complete without considering the types of riveting tools (consumables - rivets).
There are two fundamental types of these parts: monolithic, that is, solid, and tubular.
The latter are usually called pistons.
All-metal rivets are more like just a piece of thick wire and are used only for manual view rivets.
Much later than the beginning of the use of the described one, the now more commonly used pistons appeared - the second type (inside there is soft metal that is quite easily flattened when pressed).
Most importantly, these parts are divided into two more subtypes: nut and pull-out. The latter contain two parts: a tube and an interior, the so-called poisson or rod.
On top of such a simple design there is an enlarged part - a cap, which prevents the rivet from prematurely protruding or breaking. Poisson is introduced with reverse side, that is, from the opposite side - where the cap is located.
It turns out that rivets are inserted on both sides, subsequently flattened.
How does a riveter for threaded rivets work?
The principle is the same, but the peculiarity of the rivet material is that, after being screwed (hammered) into the structure, it is bitten off with a special construction tool.
And besides, you can choose any length this way.
If it comes to large volumes of rivets, you need to take the so-called professional mechanism, which allows you to make large quantity rivets with less effort.
A slightly more complex mechanism (besides the manual one) is called a pneumatic riveter. His work is carried out by compressed air.
Pneumatic devices require the use of a compressor. There are professional mechanisms that contain a hydraulic press in their design.
This type of riveter is called pneumohydraulic. As can be seen from the definition, it works thanks to two types of mechanisms that drive the main working element.
To select a tool for making a clear rivet joint between metal parts, including sheet metal and profiles, you need to take into account the thickness of the material being fastened.
More details about the pneumohydraulic riveter are presented in the video:
Noticed a mistake? Select it and click Ctrl+Enter to let us know.
A manual riveter is a tool designed for fastening sheet materials. Most often, sheets of metal up to 3 mm thick are fastened with rivets, but you can attach a sheet of metal to a profile or corner. We have a pull-out riveter, the principle of its operation is slightly different than riveting with conventional rivets and a hammer. In this article we will look at the main types of hand tools for riveting, how to select rivets and how to use this device.
How to work with a blind riveter
First of all, you need to drill a hole through both sheets to be fastened, right through. The diameter of the hole should be the same as the diameter of the rivets. Then we “charge” the rivet and insert it through both sheets and begin to squeeze the handle (more than one squeeze will be needed). The rivet begins to flatten when the ball is completely retracted into the rivet - the tail of the rivet is bitten off. As a result, we have 2 sheets of metal riveted on both sides. In the photo below you can see the instructions in pictures.
Video - how to rivet correctly
My partner and I made a video for you on how to use a riveter. I hope it will help you understand how and what to do.
What types of riveters are there:
Regular inexpensive model
Take, for example, the most cheap option from Stayer - the very first photo. Its cost is 300 rubles. It supports all rivet diameters (2.4 mm, 3.2, 4 and 4.8 mm), so you can select the most suitable rivet diameter for the materials being fastened.
For example, thin rivets with a diameter of 2.4 mm are intended for fastening sheet material total thickness up to 5 mm. Of course, there is also such a parameter for blind rivets as length. The longer the rivet, the thicker the material that can be fastened.
I bring to your attention a table of the relationship between the size of the rivets and the thickness of the material.
Riveters with a rotating “head”
It differs from the usual one in that the “head” of the riveter can be rotated 360 degrees. This is very helpful when working in hard to reach places, where ordinary people cannot get to. True, it costs more, about 350 rubles. We are also considering the Steyer model.
Reinforced models (two-handed)
For people who work as riveters all the time, they produce power versions.
They differ from ordinary ones in that they squeeze it with both hands, which saves significant effort. Imagine that you need to rivet 500 rivets. It will be difficult to complete such a volume of work with a regular riveter, but with a reinforced one you can rivet everything much faster and without strain. What the reinforced one looks like is in the photo below.
Professional models with extended service life
In addition to household models for home work, there are also professional ones on sale. They differ from household ones in better quality and longer service life. For example, a model from Kraftool. A regular, non-rotating model, but costs significantly more. In the photo below, the Kraftul riveter - price 400 rubles.
All riveters come with 4 replaceable fittings for different diameters rivets They are changed using a special key, which is also included in the kit.
Rivets are usually sold in small packages of 50 pieces. Rivets vary in diameter and length; the thicker and longer the rivet, the more expensive the packaging. For example:
- 3.2*6 mm - price 26 rubles
- 4*12 - cost 35 rubles
- 4.8*16 - 50 rubles
When purchasing consumables, do not forget that rivets are needed for the rivet maker, pull rivets. Otherwise, stores also sell regular ones that are riveted with a hammer.
Riveting parts is a very popular method used today in construction, production and everyday life. To install such fasteners in metal elements applies. This is a simple tool, the working head of which has a holder into which it is inserted fastener. A hole is drilled in the workpieces where the rivet is placed, and when the tool lever is pressed, it is flattened, securing it in the material. Everything is very simple! Someone will say why use this method if there are others for connecting metal elements, for example, welding or fastening with self-tapping screws. But they are not applicable in all cases. Here are some examples.
- Need to connect metal parts and at the same time exclude changes in their structure.
- Do not heat metal or surfaces located next to the elements being connected.
- It is necessary to connect the parts from different materials, for which welding is not applicable.
- It is necessary to fasten hard-to-reach structural elements, and the impact of the tool is possible only from one side.
- There is a possibility of a fatigue crack appearing from part to part when they are connected.
Then they use a riveter, which helps solve all these problems. What else is good about this tool? Let's figure it out.
Advantages of joining parts with rivets
This type of fastener has been used since time immemorial; for example, it can be found in military armor. By the way, during construction Eiffel Tower and the cruiser Aurora, rivets were also used, only much larger in size compared to fasteners in armor. Now such elements are used in construction, for example, when installing fences, installing frames of ventilated facades, attaching steel sheets to a profile; in production when connecting metal parts of units, machines, boiler equipment; in everyday life when carrying out repair work. Not surprising, because the riveter has so many advantages!
The tool is easy to work with
Installing rivets is a fairly simple method of joining parts compared to, for example, welding and is much safer. You just need to select a rivet of a suitable diameter and install it in the drilled hole. To get the hang of it, you only need to install a few elements!
The result is a reliable and aesthetic fastening
For example, you need to connect metal and wooden blanks. The riveter will cope with this task, and the connection will be very reliable. A rivet installed in a drilled hole firmly fixes the parts, does not deform them and does not allow fatigue cracks to propagate. The fastener rod is bitten off, and a neat cap remains on the front side of the part, which looks very aesthetically pleasing and does not spoil appearance products.
Minimum costs for tools and fasteners
The cost of a riveter is much lower than, for example, a welding machine. An amateur model can be purchased for up to 1000 rubles, a professional one will cost more, but will help achieve more high performance works Concerning Supplies, the price of rivets is low. For example, a package of 50 pieces costs about 40 rubles . For comparison, when installing a frame for a ventilated facade per 1 sq. m there are about 20 rivets - you will spend less than 20 rubles on this. And if you take a package of 1000 pieces, the fasteners will cost even less. In construction and production conditions, where large quantities of rivets have to be used, this option will be very profitable.
As you can see, rivet joints are the optimal method when you need to connect metal elements, spending a minimum of money and effort. If you decide that your work requires a riveter, do not rush to buy the first model that you like. There are several types of tools: some are used in private construction, others are designed for intensive loads in production. Let's talk about each in more detail.
Types of riveters
The division of a tool occurs not only according to the “household/professional” principle, but primarily according to how it is designed. There are two main parameters by which classification is carried out.
By food type
- Manual- the simplest devices that are affordable, moreover, they can be used in any conditions: when high humidity and dustiness, at heights, when there is no power supply, etc. Two-handed riveters have two handles, which are compressed with both hands to transfer force to the working head - this is necessary for deforming the rivet. This tool is designed on the lever principle, so work productivity directly depends on the effort exerted by the user. For a comfortable grip, there are rubber pads on the handles, as well as indentations for the fingers. The most versatile tools are those with a rotating head: they are suitable for working in hard-to-reach places. Models rocker type They have one handle and a scissor mechanism through which force is transmitted to the working head - to do this you need to press hard on the handle. This design is very convenient if you need to install a lot of fasteners. Most often, manual riveters are used in private construction, as well as by installation teams and in small workshops, where the process of installing rivets is auxiliary.
- Rechargeable- externally they look like a pistol and have a built-in battery that generates energy for the impact required when installing rivets. Therefore, the user makes less effort when working compared to a conventional riveter - you only need to press a button. Even during prolonged work, the load on your hands is not felt. Depending on the battery capacity, its charge is enough to install from several hundred to several thousand fasteners. Like all hand tools, such models are used in facilities where there is no power supply, but, like any cordless tool, it is not designed to work in conditions of high humidity and dust. This is an excellent option for use in a workshop or for installation work.
- - the most productive type of device, since the energy for installing the rivet comes from a source of compressed air - a compressor. But the design of such a tool is also more complex: in addition to the gun itself with a trigger and a working head, it contains a cylinder for compressed air and a pusher. To operate, the tool must be connected to the compressor via a hose. It is important to remember that pneumatic riveters must match the operating parameters of the compressed air source. Operating pressure and the air flow of the tool must not exceed the corresponding compressor parameters. As a rule, such models are used in the manufacturing sector, when, during product assembly, the installation of rivets is the main work process and occurs almost continuously. In this case, a manual model will not be suitable due to low productivity, and a battery model will not be suitable due to limited battery charge.
By type of fastener used
- For blind rivets- the most common type of instrument. A pulling force is exerted on the fastener when the tool handles are pulled together or the trigger is pulled. As a result, a riveted head is formed at the base of the element, holding it in the workpiece. The remaining rod from the rivet is discarded.
- For threaded rivets- models that are used primarily in industry. Installation of the fastener occurs by flattening it in the prepared hole, while the fastener is screwed onto the holder. The rivet itself is hollow inside and has an internal thread - thus, the hole in the metal is strengthened due to it, and it is the basis for screwing in bolts and screws.
Choose based on your own goals suitable tool. For example, if you are planning to build a fence at your dacha, you will attach the corrugated sheet to the pipes. Take a manual blind rivet gun that has two handles. If you are looking for a tool for daily work, for example, in the manufacture of ventilated facades, choose either a manual rocker-type model or a battery-powered one - it all depends on the operating conditions and the scope of work. To equip a production department or workshop, the right decision would be to purchase a pneumatic riveter, with which labor productivity will be much higher.
Pay attention to what determines the functionality of the tool and productivity. Knowing the main characteristics will help you make a successful purchase - you will select the model that best suits your needs and the specifics of the work.
Important selection options
The main characteristic is the thickness of the workpieces being fastened. Decide which metal sheets or profile you will connect - their total thickness should not exceed the permissible value of the riveter. For example, for the model it is 8.5 mm. The next parameter is the size of the rivets used. For example, the tool has 4 interchangeable attachments for working with fasteners measuring 2.4 - 4.8 mm, and 5 attachments for fasteners measuring 3.2 - 6.4 mm. These models are suitable for a wide range of jobs. If you are planning on doing one specific job that requires a specific size of fastener, you don't need as much functional model. Don't forget about the tool kit. Many manufacturers include not only replacement attachments, but also maintenance keys. The pneumatic riveter has replaceable jaws and a container for used materials, which ensures safe work - the rods fly off into the container and not towards the operator. The model comes with a case and a set of rivets to get started.
Don't have a riveter in your arsenal yet? Then it's time to buy it! Once you try it out, you will see that it is very easy to make reliable riveted connections. You can choose suitable model on our website and immediately purchase the fasteners necessary for the job. Place your order now - you will receive the product as soon as possible with delivery or you can pick it up at the nearest pickup point.
This very specific tool has a number of other names - “river gun”, “rivet gun”. Manual riveters are purchased mainly for household needs, since they are simpler and cheaper copies compared to their “brothers”. However, their range is quite impressive, and the cost of individual products differs significantly - from one and a half hundred rubles to 2 - 3 thousand. Which riveter is better to buy?
The main rule when choosing any “device” is what is it for? After all, it is clear that manual models are inferior to professional ones in both versatility and performance. In other words, you need to clearly define the tasks that will have to be solved.
By the way, if you have to work frequently and use rivets of different sizes, then it is advisable to have at least 2 products in your house that are different in “parameters”. For example – one-handed model + two-handed. But if the business is on stream, it is better not to waste money on cheap products. In any case, the riveter completely pays for itself, just like...
What to focus on
Rivet material
If it is aluminum, then it is easy to work with, so it does not matter which “riveter” you choose. It is more difficult with steel, so the device should be selected more powerful.
Ease of use
Firstly, the instrument can be one- or two-handed. Naturally, the latter can create greater pressure, so it allows you to work with fasteners made of any material, different sizes. Although in some cases (for example, limited space) you can only use one-handed.
Secondly, the head design. If it is rotatable, then this creates additional convenience. Sometimes you have to rivet in difficult areas (in “inconvenient” places), and this feature of the tool is very helpful.
Thirdly, are there replacement attachments for fasteners? various sizes? There is no need to comment on this.
Adaptations
Some models have a special “container” where “waste” is dumped. For example, when you have to rivet a roof or build a fence from corrugated sheets, small pieces of metal scatter to the sides. If they find themselves in the grass (sand, on the ground) around the place of work, then problems cannot be avoided, especially with children - they like to run around barefoot in the summer.
Some “home craftsmen” prefer not to think twice about which tool to buy. If the amount of work is insignificant, buy a couple of cheap models at once. If one breaks, there is always a spare at hand. And 150-200 rubles is not that much money to go around and ask the price. Although this point of view does not suit everyone, it also has a right to exist.
There is another opinion. It’s better to buy a professional model for 700 rubles, and this will guarantee that it will last long enough. Moreover, perhaps the riveter will be needed more than once.
It is also necessary to take into account such a factor as the owner’s accuracy. We do not claim to be the author of the thought, but, nevertheless, let’s say that anything can be broken, no matter how much “it” costs. Therefore, you should not trust too much people’s reviews about a particular model, especially strangers.
Considering the above, one should not be surprised at the opinion of professionals that choosing a manual “riveter” is akin to a lottery - you cannot guess whether you will be lucky or not.
By far the most reliable option fastening connections - one-piece, and, having special tools on hand, you don’t have to think about the question of how to rivet a rivet. Next we will tell you exactly how such fasteners are made.
1
What is this fastener? Initially, historically, it was a metal rod, less often a plate. Always with a locking head on one side (a cap that limits the movement of the element in the hole) and a locking head on the other end. It was first used for the manufacture of armor, such as plate and chain mail, as well as for connecting some elements of edged and early firearms. If the embedded head is present initially, then the closing head appears as a result of the process of upsetting (riveting) or with the help of a special tool due to deformation by a pulling rod. It is logical that the upset applies to cast or stamped all-metal elements, and deformation by a rod is possible only when using hollow (tubular) blind rivets. There are also explosive and cutting options.
Various types of rivets
So, we know that the fasteners we are considering are one-piece, which often ensures high reliability. But the strength of the connection depends primarily on the material, so we will first consider the types of rivets according to this characteristic. The most common are aluminum fasteners, in many production processes, and also in a number of crafts, copper and brass rods are used. All these materials do not have a high degree of reliability and are suitable only where there are no heavy loads, for fastening decorative parts. Among other things, there are steel rivets, including those made of stainless steel, they provide a fairly strong connection and are even suitable for assembly load-bearing structures and mechanical engineering.
When installing metal parts, it is very important to use rivets made of the same material as the elements being connected.
2
Before using rivets, you need to know how to rivet certain parts correctly. There are many connection methods, but they are usually divided into 3 types. Durable fasteners are used exclusively where certain loads are present. Sealed, as the name implies, are needed to ensure tightness at the joints of sheets or any parts. And finally, tightly sealed ones perform both functions. It should be noted that for the second type, that is, for hermetic rivets, the embedded heads are made reinforced.
Blind rivets
The most common connection method is overlapping, and it is applied not only to, but also to parts complex shape. This option is also called single-cut. Under the influence of multidirectional loads, for example, when stretching, such a seam can easily deform. A more durable joint is a butt joint, using one or two (on both sides of the seam) overlays, but this option, also called multi-cut, makes the structure heavier and leads to greater consumption of material. Installation of rivets during fastening can be chain or staggered; the second is more reliable, but very labor-intensive.
Mortgage heads come in the most different forms. The most commonly used ones are semicircular and hidden. The former completely cover the hole, like the head of a screw, and for the latter, the channel is flared so that the head, shaped like an inverted cut cone, fits completely into the hole. In the second case, the surface of the part remains smooth, since the riveting occurs flush, and the destruction of such rivets becomes difficult. There are also semi-flush form factors (with a small rounded convex), flat, flat-conical, conical and oval.
3
The most commonly used today are pull-out riveting elements, which are especially convenient if you need to attach a part to a surface the opposite side of which is inaccessible. They are a tube with a flaring at one of the ends (analogous to a mounting head), in the channel of which a rod with a cap passes at the flat end of the riveting. On the flared side, a large part of the rod is extended, with which the tool clamp engages, for subsequent pulling through the tube. Its straight end is crushed by the head of the rod and forms a closing head.
Rivets for metal
However, it should be taken into account that when two parts are connected, its channel also expands, so the edges of the holes must be strong and not subject to deformation. Therefore, for fastening plates from soft material, whether plastic or aluminum, steel inserts or washers must be used on both sides of the connecting parts. The same applies to connections that must be movable, hinged; they can also be used in combination with bushing washers, and their length must exceed the total thickness of the plates being fastened.
4
Unlike pull-out elements, conventional cast or stamped riveting elements must be installed using a certain amount of force applied to the closing end. This can be pressing or targeted blows to flatten the end of the rod coming out of the hole. The second option is most reminiscent of forging, especially since it is performed cold or hot. If the thickness of the riveting does not exceed 1 centimeter, you can use a cold forging of the closing head. If the diameter is more than 10 millimeters, then the fastening element must be heated to facilitate flattening of its end.
Rivet tool
As a rule, before hot riveting a rivet, it is heated in a forge, after which it is installed in the hole and a flat closing cap is made with several strong blows. In this case, there should be an anvil with a hole for the mounting head located below. For the cold method, a special tool is used - a striker with a semicircular hole, with the help of which an even hemisphere is formed by deforming the end coming out of the hole within the recess. Forging with a regular hammer gives the same result if you hit it on the end, directing the blows slightly sideways, from the center to the edges, but such a head will be less accurate.
5
As we have already said, the type of connection under consideration is one-piece, however, if you still need to disassemble the structure, the parts of which are riveted together, you can use several different methods. The most common one, which is usually applied to pull-out, explosive and split types of fasteners, as well as where countersunk heads are used, is drilling. To do this, a drill corresponding to the estimated or precisely known diameter of the hole is installed exactly in the center of the embedded or closing head, after which a hole is made to the required depth or a through channel. After this, with a few precise blows you can easily knock out the rivet.
Rivet Removal Tool
The second method is somewhat labor-intensive, however, it is quite effective for heads that are clearly visible above the surface, that is, for semicircular and conical ones. You will need a special chisel, shaped like a chisel, with which you need to cut off the cap, delivering sharp and strong blows to the back end of the handle. A sharpened chisel may also work, but this tool is recommended only for small-diameter rivets. Fasteners with a rod of about 1 centimeter or more are very difficult to cut in this way.
The easiest method for removing rivets with protruding heads is to use a corner grinding machine, colloquially referred to as a grinder. It is best to install a cutting disc on it for this purpose, and, moving it from the side to the head, carefully cut it off. If there is a possibility of damaging the surface of the part from which the connection is being removed, it is recommended to use a coarse grinding disc, with which the head is simply carefully ground down to the base. Next, by installing any sufficiently sharp tool, for example, a punch, you can easily knock the rivet rod out of the hole with a strong blow of a hammer.
The rivet is an excellent and durable type of fastener. But unlike bolts, nuts, studs and screws, it cannot be removed without damaging it. The bolt can be unscrewed with keys or a screwdriver, after which it can be reused. The broken rivet will have to be thrown away. The question also arises: “How to rivet rivets if you don’t have a riveter in your arsenal?”
The essence of the rivet
The rivet is a disposable fastener. But it is also the cheapest. If the device is being made permanently and does not involve disassembling parts in the future, these parts can be riveted together. They will hold just as firmly as screws, but will be even more secure. The screw may come out over time, but the rivet itself will not come apart, since it is impossible to rivet it without the help of special tools.
Rivets in construction and mechanical engineering
There are many. Some have the form of a single part - a bushing, which is inserted into the hole and, using a special riveter, the edges of the bushing are expanded on the other side of the parts being connected and pressed (flatten). Such rivets are the most common, cheap and reliable. They are used mainly in construction and mechanical engineering. How to rivet a rivet construction varieties?
Removing a construction rivet
It is difficult to call this action dismantling as such. This is deletion. To remove the rivet, you will need the regular rivet gun that was used to install it. But since you don’t have one at hand, it’s worth figuring out how to rivet a rivet without a riveter.
You can try to remove rivets in which the head or bent part protrudes above the plane of the riveted parts with a sharp chisel and hammer:
- Place the cutting part of the chisel exactly under the head (or bent part).
- Hit the chisel with a hammer. Some large rivets may take several hits to break off.
- Once the head (or bent part) is torn off, all that remains is to remove the rivet from the hole. This can be done by pushing it out with a nail or other thin object (for example, a screwdriver).
But more often you cannot get to the caps and curved parts, since they are, as it were, in the body of the parts being fastened. At the factory, special grooves are drilled for the caps and expanding parts in the parts, and then the rivets fit into the metal like a glove. How to rivet rivets in such a “tricky” case?
Here a screwdriver (or drill) with a metal drill matched to the diameter of the rivet will come to the rescue. Proceed as follows:
- Using a core, make a notch on the head of the rivet so that the drill does not wander, although some are accustomed to doing without serifs.
- Place the screwdriver bit on the head and drill out the inside of the rivet.
- When the drill goes through, the remains of the head and widened part fall out on their own.
Rivets on clothes
But rivets are also used in the manufacture of various types of clothing. Their use began in the 19th century, when, while sewing pants made of rough canvas, which will later be called jeans, one of the craftsmen noticed that if the seam is riveted at the beginning, it will definitely not come apart or tear.
Here rivets are used, for which the name “buttons” is more appropriate. Unlike ordinary ones, they consist of two parts - internal and external. Everything is held together by the fact that the head of one element fits into the cavity of another. Then, under pressure from the riveter, the head internal element it flattens (expands) inside the cavity of the outer element, and such a “super button” cannot be broken, no matter how hard you try. The fabric is more likely to tear. How to rivet these types of rivets correctly?
Removing rivets from clothing
This is done in two ways. One - with the help of side cutters, the other - with a knife and a pair of pliers. The choice of methods depends on what type of rivet you have - alpha (internal) or beta (external). The corners and edges of the stitching are mostly riveted with alpha varieties, otherwise known as grommets. Beta is used in cases of buttons used to fasten clothing. One part there is alpha, and beta is riveted onto it. Despite the fact that such rivets hold the material perfectly, they are afraid of mechanical stress.
How to rivet alpha rivets using a knife and two pliers?
It is done.
How to rivet a beta rivet on clothes? Everything is even simpler here. The procedure is as follows:
