PPS machine gun: technical specifications, device, photos, reviews.

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Dear visitors to the site “Visiting Samodelkin”, from the master class presented by the author, you will learn how you can independently make a PPSh (Shpagin submachine gun) from wood.

This machine gun was created for the author’s son, who was 6 years old. The guy has a natural and healthy desire for small arms, mainly liking weapons from the Great Period. Patriotic War. Having seen the PPSh at the parade, I was eager to get one))

Well, it’s the father’s duty to find a toy machine at all costs; in toy stores the prices are usually inflated, and the quality leaves much to be desired. It was decided to make a submachine gun yourself from wood; they had been lying on the balcony for about 10 years already 2 furniture panels from the Christmas tree, they became the starting material.

I found a ready-made sketch on the Internet, downloaded it, redrew it and transferred the drawing onto 2 furniture panels pre-glued together. I glued the boards with wood glue and clamped them with clamps, the thickness of one plate is 18 mm, in the process it turned out that they were not very even, maybe from time to time, in general it was difficult to glue and pull together.

I also wanted the machine gun to be very similar and detailed, so detachable magazines, a trigger, a front sight, a bolt, swivels, a sight, and a butt plate were added.

So, let's look at what exactly is required to make a submachine gun?

Materials

1. furniture board 2 pcs (spruce) 18 mm
2. wood glue
3. latch
4. butt plate from a real 19th century gun (you can use a simple brass plate)
5. paint, varnish, primer
6. 3-4mm aluminum plate
7. swivels

Tools

1. jigsaw
2. drill
3. router
4. file
5. chisel
6. screwdriver
7. sandpaper
8. paint-remote
9. clamps
10. brush
11. spray booth or box
12. ruler

Step-by-step instructions for making PPSh from wood with your own hands.

First, you should familiarize yourself with the history of the creation of the machine itself, by whom and when was it developed?
A little historical background. The PPSh, also known as the Shpagin submachine gun, was developed in 1940 by gunsmith designer G.S. Shpagin. Adopted by the Red Army on December 21, 1940. The cartridge is 7.62x25 TT, the drum magazine capacity is 71 rounds, the rate of fire is 1000 rounds per minute. Is one of the main symbols of victory Soviet Union in the Second World War. It was in service until 1960, then it was replaced by the AK-47. In some CIS countries, it is still in service with police and security forces to this day.

In our case, the machine will be a toy, but as close as possible to the original in appearance) The main material is 2 furniture panels 18 mm thick, the author took spruce, but according to him it is better to take harder wood, because spruce is soft and brittle, in the process I had to glue the broken pieces back many times.

We take the shield, coat it with wood glue, then cover it with a second shield on top and tighten it with clamps; again, the author recommends using metal clamps, because plastic ones are too weak if the surfaces are uneven.

Afterwards, you need to let the glue dry for at least a day (24 hours). Next, the author, based on a drawing from the Internet, drew a contour on the workpiece and cut it out using a jigsaw.

This is exactly what happened in the end.

We chamfer, round and grind sandpaper.

Holes are milled air cooling submachine gun barrel.

A semicircle is sharpened with a file.

Use a chisel to select wood for the swivel.

Preparation metal blanks for subsequent painting, except for the backplate, because it is from a real 19th century gun.

Suspended in paint booth and covered with soil.

Painted, now you need to give the parts time to dry.

From metal plate a lever is cut out to attach the disc magazine of a submachine gun, and on the disc itself the attachment point is reinforced with a plate with a hole.

After which a groove is drilled for installing the lever.

The grooves for the bracket and trigger are also drilled.

And here is the actual result painstaking work masters

As you can see, if you wish, you can make a cool toy for your child from wood with your own hands, and the most important thing is that the boy will hold in his hands the symbol of the Victory of his Heroic Soviet people over the World Evil. A true patriot of his Fatherland and a defender of the Motherland is growing up.

Dear Fathers! Do it for the children wooden Toys with patriotic overtones! You have a sample, so let’s take it and do it. Take heart, friends. I have the honor!

This concludes the article. Everyone Thanks a lot for your attention!
Come visit often and don't miss out on new items in the world of homemade products!

1. Benefits
2. Required Tools and materials
3. Preparation of parts
4. Assembly
5. Final work
6. Features of use

It is believed that best conditions for keeping bees can only be created in wooden hives, since they are closest to natural environment insect habitat. But some beekeepers are sure that there are alternative options, each of which has its own advantages.

One of these materials is polystyrene foam; it successfully solves some beekeeping problems that arise when bees are kept in wooden structures. At the same time, insects adapt well to such hives, sometimes even faster than to ordinary ones. In order to make a hive from polystyrene foam with your own hands, you do not need a lot of time, special tools and skills, as well as significant financial investments.

Advantages

Expanded polystyrene (PSB-S) is an economical, convenient, environmentally friendly pure material. It has low vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. During operation, foam does not emit toxic substances, is durable, is not food for rodents and is not a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi. Due to its breathability, polystyrene foam allows hives to be well ventilated.

The advantages of this material include the following qualities:

Unlike wooden structures, polystyrene foam hives do not have voids;
such bee houses are protected from cold in winter, and from overheating in summer;
quickly assembled and dismantled, compartments are easy to repair;
expanded polystyrene does not rot or mold due to its inorganic composition;
bees fly away less from such hives and swarm less often;
insect activity increases significantly;
the material helps maintain an optimal microclimate inside the hive. In this regard, the uterus begins its activity earlier, and the family develops faster;
in summer the nests are well ventilated;
hives made of polystyrene foam are lightweight and mobile.

Disadvantages of the material:

expanded polystyrene repels moisture, and it flows to the bottom of the hive;
expanded polystyrene is much less durable than wood;
The slabs have a fixed size, so most often there are a lot of leftovers. In this regard, polystyrene foam hives need to be carefully thought out;
at the joints, insects can gnaw the material, therefore it is necessary to fit the parts more tightly so that light does not enter the hive;
Cleaning structures from propolis is quite difficult and is only possible with the help of chemicals. Its further use for economic purposes is excluded, since propolis is removed with pieces of foam;
The hives are very light; during strong winds they need to be strengthened with bricks.

Required tools and materials

In order to make a beehive from polystyrene foam with your own hands, you will need not only some skills, but also:

Special glue or liquid nails.
Expanded polystyrene boards.
Mesh for ventilation.
Marker or pencil.
Sheets of paper for drawings.
A stationery knife and self-tapping screws 7 and 5 cm long.
Ruler (at least 100 cm).
Sandpaper.
Screwdriver.
Corners 1.5*1.5. They are glued in if the bees generously lubricate the walls with propolis so that the material does not crumble when removing the frames.

If you want to use consumables As economically as possible, it is better to make the correct drawings. At the slabs standard size 1.2 by 0.6, but you should take it with a small margin, since not everything always works out the first time.

Preparing parts

The walls of the hives are made of material 50 mm thick. This expanded polystyrene has sufficient strength and lightness. Before starting work, we recommend making your own drawings.

Polystyrene foam hives consist of several elements: a cover, a base and a body. We attach drawings with their dimensions below.

The resulting markings are transferred to the material with a small margin and cut out using a stationery knife and ruler. To minimize gaps, extreme precision must be observed, since the penetration of light leads to the bees gnawing holes in these places, forming an additional entrance.

Making a beehive from polystyrene foam. Part 1

Assembly

The cut parts must be made smooth and even, for this purpose sandpaper is used. After that, folds are applied to the walls, with their help frames will be installed.

Polystyrene foam hives are assembled in the following sequence:

The edges of the workpieces are lubricated with glue.
The joints of the parts are connected and fixed.
Remove drips before they harden.
To improve strength, the parts are additionally connected using self-tapping screws, placing them at a distance of approximately 12 cm. Screwed in to a depth of no more than 5 mm.
Using a knife, make indentations on the back and front walls of the product, and then glue handles from pieces of foam foam of a suitable size into them.
The structure should dry out within 24 hours. In dry weather, such hives can be left in the yard, tied with straps and weighted down the top of the polystyrene foam building with bricks.

Making a beehive from polystyrene foam. Part 2

Final works

After 24 hours, you should grind the hive walls with sandpaper using pendulum-like movements, without excessive pressure. If gaps remain as a result, eliminate them with polyurethane foam.

After this, the final work begins:

strips or corners are fixed to the recesses in the walls;
Waxed frames are installed inside the body;
A ventilation mesh is inserted into the bottom. It should be selected according to two parameters: cell size (up to 3.5 mm) and strength. Can use aluminum mesh for car bumper with required size cells;
a lid is placed; leftover polystyrene foam can be used for it, metallic profile or plywood. In this case, the lid should not outweigh the structure;
The outer part of the hive should be coated with water-based paint. It is non-toxic, does not destroy the material and will help to significantly extend the life of such a house for bees.

Making a beehive from polystyrene foam. Part 3

Features of use

In hives made from polystyrene foam, film is used instead of the usual canvas. And thermoregulation occurs somewhat differently than in wooden houses, the elements of which absorb moisture.

In summer, the structure is ventilated through an open entrance and holes in the bottom. The need for an upper entrance does not arise if dividing grids are not used, but with the start of honey harvest it will be needed, because it will be difficult for bees to penetrate through the grid with a heavy load. The upper taphole can be made directly at the point stationery knife, it is better to give the hole square shape size 30 by 30 mm.

To save heat in the hive, in the spring the hole in the bottom is retracted, the entrance at this time is slightly open by 2-5 cm. winter time the entrance is covered and the bottom is open. A film is placed over the frames, preventing the penetration of cold air from above and the formation of a draft. Moisture formed from the bees' breathing collects on the walls and film, and then the condensation flows into the entrance and the lower hole. The walls of the structure do not absorb moisture, which is a clear advantage over wooden structures.

Polystyrene foam hives can be easily transported to the right places, but they must be secured with special belts. Bricks can be placed on top of them to prevent them from being toppled over by the wind. For the winter polystyrene foam hives It is better not to insulate or cover with pillows. Wintering should take place outdoors.

It is very difficult to understand all the variety of houses for bees. It is especially difficult for an inexperienced beekeeper: every type of hive, every design, from a log to modern hives, has its pros and cons.

For me on initial stage In beekeeping, this issue also turned out to be one of the primary ones. For myself, I decided to independently make inexpensive and lightweight hives from extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) of the appropriate density.

Advantages of polystyrene foam hives:

a light weight;
ease of manufacture;
maintainability;
low cost of material;
you do not need to have special skills and tools for woodworking;
high thermal insulation.

Bees feel very comfortable in such hives. This is confirmed by excellent spring development, less swarming compared to bee colonies in wooden hives and successful wintering. In Europe, such hives have been produced and actively used for quite a long time.

The microclimate and organization of air exchange in hives made of PPS differ from those that exist in wooden hives. The use of pillows and canvas is not allowed in PPS ulkhs. Instead of canvas, a regular one is used polyethylene film. There should be nothing in the hive that can absorb moisture. Expanded polystyrene itself is non-hygroscopic.

Ventilation all year round, except for the early spring period, is carried out through a mesh bottom and an open lower entrance. An upper entrance is only necessary if a dividing grid is placed between the bodies so that bees loaded with nectar and pollen do not experience difficulties in overcoming it.

In early spring, immediately after the exhibition of hives from the winter hut or after the bees have flown around, if the winter hut was in the wild, the mesh bottom should be closed with a plug. This is necessary for maximum concentration of heat inside the hive, so that it is easier for a bee colony weakened after winter to heat the brood and successfully as soon as possible prepare a shift of wintering bees. When the threat of returning cold passes, the plug in the mesh bottom must be removed.

There is no need to insulate the hive and nest with anything, because polystyrene foam itself is very warm material. It is better to make diaphragms from the same material. PPS hives are much lighter than wooden hives, so it is advisable to weigh them down further. When wintering in the wild, you should take care to protect the hives from birds. The low density of the material obliges the beekeeper to be careful when working with the hive.

Spring cleaning and disinfection of hives made of PPS is limited to washing the internal surface hot water, followed by treatment with an alcoholic infusion of propolis, a weak solution of caustic soda or special means for cleaning polystyrene foam hives. Expanded polystyrene cannot be burned.

To make a hive from PPS you will need:

ruler, pen;
stationery knife;
polystyrene foam adhesive;
slabs of extruded polystyrene foam of appropriate density with a thickness of 50 and 30 mm;
screws, screwdriver;
mesh for bottom ventilation with a mesh size of no more than 3.5 mm;
plastic corners 15x15 mm for gluing into folds under frame hangers.

We mark the sheets using a ruler and pen. Using a knife along a ruler at right angles to the plane of the slab, we cut through the PPS sheet. Then we apply glue to both surfaces to be glued, press them together and fasten them with self-tapping screws every 10-12 cm, recessing the caps by 0.5-1 cm. Self-tapping screws are needed only at the gluing stage, then the structure is held in place by the glue.

It must be remembered that making a hive requires maximum precision. Even a small gap between the two walls of the body allows light to penetrate inside, and the bees immediately make an additional entrance here. In the front and back walls folds are cut out to fit the frames and plastic corners are glued in.

My hive consists of buildings with 12 Dadan frames each, a detachable bottom with a ventilation mesh and a lid. All elements of the hive are interchangeable, which makes work easier and faster. The walls and bottom elements are made of extruded polystyrene foam 50 mm thick. This material is very warm and light. A wall thickness of 50 mm is enough to provide everyone necessary conditions. Cover made of polystyrene foam - 30 mm.

The bodies are connected through a “skirt”. This connection ensures stability, reduces the likelihood of light and air penetration between the housings, and also ensures easy separation of the housings from each other. There is no need to use a chisel when separating. I don’t use seam connections because of problems with removing the housings when the socket is strongly polarized, and the fragility of the seams themselves. A strip of polystyrene foam 20 mm thick is suitable as a taphole barrier. The width of the entrance is adjusted depending on the strength of the bee colony and external conditions.

Thus, a polystyrene foam hive can be easily and cheaply made even in the kitchen. This option is especially relevant for novice beekeepers.

Nikolay TATARENKOV,

In organic natural conditions bees lived and live in tree hollows. At the dawn of beekeeping, people settled hardworking insects in logs - wooden “cylinders”, obtained by hollowing out the core of a log. Later came the era of wooden hives. The pinnacle of evolution has become a hive made of polystyrene foam, which can provide the modern bee family with the most comfortable living conditions, and beekeeping professionals with access to production.

Show all

What it is

Good idea to replace traditional tree expanded polystyrene (PPS) first appeared at the end of the last century among the Finns. The reason for this was the harsh climate of this northern country, which is why the second name of the new bee housing is Finnish hives.

Polystyrene foam hives

pros

Compared to wooden products PPS hives have many impressive advantages. The main one is the low thermal conductivity (8 times lower than that of wood) of this material, which:

allows you to provide the bee colony with warmth even in severe frosts, without resorting to any additional measures;
minimizes bees' energy consumption for heating;
increases apiary productivity.

During the hot season, PPS walls prevent overheating inside, maintaining the optimal temperature.

However, low thermal conductivity is not the only advantage. Houses made of polystyrene foam have additional advantages:

1. They are characterized by minimal weight, which greatly facilitates their transportation and installation. Thus, a hive with 7 floors will weigh only 10 kg, while its wooden counterpart will weigh no less than 40 kg.
2. Pass enough sun rays so that the bees do not feel a lack of light.
3. Due to the extremely low coefficient of moisture absorption, they are not affected by dampness and do not collapse even during prolonged use in conditions of high humidity.
4. They do not deform, so damaged parts can be easily replaced with new ones, which is impossible in wooden hives, the geometry of which undergoes significant changes under the influence of sun, rain, and frost.
5. They do not have sharp corners or parts that could cause injury.
6. They are quite durable, although they are inferior to wood in this parameter.
7. Simple and easy to manufacture and assemble.
8. Capable of providing enhanced ventilation when the need arises (during the main bribe period).
9. Available in production due to the low cost of polystyrene foam.
10. Do not allow harmful microorganisms to develop on the surface.
11. They are environmentally friendly.
12. Have an attractive appearance and decorate the apiaries.

Minuses

There are some disadvantages, many of which are a continuation of the advantages:

1. The low weight, which helps to transport and install Finnish hives, turns into a disadvantage during their operation, since the weightless polystyrene foam structure can tip over even with a weak gust of wind.
2. Zero coefficient of moisture absorption saves the inhabitants of the hive from moisture from the outside, but also does not allow them to get rid of moisture, which is the result of the vital activity of bees, which accumulates inside.
3. The ease of processing polystyrene foam was appreciated not only by people, but also by bees: as soon as a tiny ray of light penetrates through some gap, they immediately begin to gnaw an additional hole in that direction.
4. Difficulties also arise when carrying out disinfection in the hive: blowtorch, which is used in this case for wooden hives, is not applicable here. You have to purchase expensive drugs that will clean the walls without entering into chemical reaction with polystyrene foam, will not be able to harm bees, or, once in their body, subsequently migrate into honey.
5. High temperature in the hive leads to the fact that the bees, in comparison with the inhabitants wooden houses, become more active and consume more food.

All of the above disadvantages will not hinder either beekeepers or bees, if you remember the features of the Finnish hive.

Design nuances

Externally, the EPS structure is similar to a conventional wooden hive, but when creating and installing it, you must remember that the floor in the polystyrene foam hive is made of an aluminum grid with cells no larger than 3.5 mm, which serves for ventilation. A retractable tray is installed under it, which makes it possible to regulate the air flow, increasing it when you need to lower the temperature in the hive or get rid of excess moisture.

The bottom mesh also serves as protection against small rodents and insects. Grates are also installed between the buildings: they are needed to collect propolis. The product is covered on top with a lid designed so that the hive can be ventilated. You should take care of a special bar for the taphole, which will regulate its size and, accordingly, air circulation.

During installation purchased product It is necessary to connect all elements as tightly as possible to avoid gaps. At self-production It is important that all parts correspond exactly to the drawing and do not have distortions or irregularities. It is imperative to protect the ends of PPS parts plastic covers: polystyrene foam will not crumble, and keeping the hive clean will become much easier.

The house will need to be firmly secured. The simplest way, used for small structures, place a brick on its roof (for tall hives consisting of several buildings, it is necessary to choose more reliable option, such as a wire staple).

The easiest way to secure the hive cover

Components for building a hive made of polystyrene foam can be purchased at the store; Finnish “biboxes” are especially popular now, which provide everything for the convenience of both bees and the beekeeper: grids for collecting propolis, feeders, anti-swarm systems, etc.

How to make a Finnish beehive yourself

A polystyrene foam hive consists of three main parts, for the manufacture of which you will need sheets of extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm thick - a body, a roof and a base.

To make a hive with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

pencil;
glue;
sharp knife;
a ruler at least a meter long;
wood screws;
plastic corners (15x15 mm) to protect the ends
glue for PPS (you can use “Titan”);
water-based paint;
polyurethane foam.

When calculating how much material is needed for production, it is important to consider that products are multi-body and can have up to 7 floors.

1. Sheets of teaching paper are marked with a pencil with a small allowance. The marking should be as accurate as possible.
2. Using a ruler and a knife, cut out the blanks.
3. Their edges are smoothed with sandpaper (this is why the allowance is needed). All surfaces must be absolutely flat and smooth, otherwise a tight connection cannot be achieved.
4. Grooves are made on the walls into which frames will subsequently be inserted.
5. Glue is applied to the joints, the parts are connected and fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in to a depth of 5 mm. The distance between the screws is 11-12 cm.
6. Possible glue drips are removed.
7. It is advisable to make indentations in the back and front walls with a knife and glue into them handles cut from the remains of polystyrene foam: they will come in handy later when you have to disassemble the hive.
8. The product should dry for about a day, after which its walls are lightly sanded without excessive pressure. At this stage, you need to check the hive for leaks and, if any cracks are found, seal them with foam.

Examples of drawings of a one-story hive:

Details	Image drawing

Now you can begin the final operations:

1. Fix the plastic corners at the ends.
2. Install frames inside each of the housings.
3. Place an aluminum mesh on the bottom of the hive and on top of each body.
4. Place the lid.
5. The finished hive should be painted on the outside. Water-based paint ideal for these purposes, since it is non-toxic, unable to destroy polystyrene foam and will protect the product from minor damage, extending its service life.

Beekeepers who already have operating experience Finnish hives, it is recommended to immediately make several spare parts or at least leave polystyrene plates for their subsequent production. They can come in handy because a polystyrene foam product is not able to withstand strong impacts.

Finnish hive all year round

Since walls made of polystyrene foam are unable to absorb moisture, the thermoregulation and ventilation of an EPS hive differs from that of a hive made of hygroscopic wood.

In summer, the tap hole and the hole in the bottom open completely, ensuring constant air movement from top to bottom. If there is a dividing grid between the housings, you will need to drill the upper entrance, otherwise it will be difficult for a bee loaded with nectar and pollen to get from one housing to another.

In spring, the bottom should be closed completely, the entrance should be covered, reducing its size to an average of 3 cm. If there is no special strip, you can use a piece of foam rubber for this.

During the first spring flight of bees, the hive is usually cleaned in the following order:

1. Using a chisel, carefully remove excess propolis and dirt from the walls.
2. A weak solution of caustic soda is prepared and treated with it inner surface hive. For this purpose, you can also use an alcohol solution of propolis or the ash of sunflower tops diluted with water. You can also purchase a store-bought preparation intended for disinfection of PPS hives.
3. After treatment, all surfaces are washed clean water and dry.

In winter, the bottom opens completely, the size of the entrance is about 5 cm, and the roof turns over. Air moves from bottom to top. The upper surface of the frames is covered with film (but a gap must be left on the sides for air movement). Moisture from the bees’ breath will collect on it and on the walls of the hive, and then flow into the hole in the bottom.

The use of special pillows or insulation is not required.