What summer resident does not dream of good harvest? And what harvest could there be without good watering? But here’s the problem: there is no running water, the river is far away – where can I get water? You can invite specialists with equipment. They will drill a well for you, and you will pay them a lot of money. There is another option: you can figure out how to plug a well yourself and enjoy the work done, the availability of water and the finances saved.
If you are more satisfied with the second option, let’s consider the issues that you need to know about to drill a well.
Aquifers
To better understand how aquifers are located in the thickness of the earth, let's imagine the earth cover in the form of a layer cake.
The first layer is fertile. Its thickness is approximately 1 m. Beneath it there are dense water-resistant layers, which mainly consist of clayey or subclayey rocks, very rarely stones. Waterproof layers are located at an angle to the horizon and have different thicknesses. As a result, cavities are formed in the thickness of the earth, similar in shape to lenses. They are filled with sand in which water accumulates. These are the aquifers. The area of such underground lakes can reach several square kilometers. The depth of their occurrence can be different, from 5 to 30 m. There can be two or three such layers in the thickness of the earth. The higher the aquifer is located, the less stable it is. In dry weather, they can dry out and refill after rain or melting snow.
From this we can conclude: if you need to constantly have water in the well, you need to break it at least to the second aquifer.
At a great depth of 30-50 m there is a rock layer. The purest artesian water is found there. Making a well to such a depth is only possible with the use of special drilling equipment.
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Choice
If the aquifer is located relatively close to the surface of the earth (from 5 to 15 m), then the choice can be made in favor of a well. Its construction is less expensive and labor-intensive than a well.
Well disadvantage:
- depending on the area, the first aquifer may dry out;
- the water of the “subcutaneous” layer is suitable only for irrigation and domestic needs;
- water must be constantly withdrawn, otherwise the well begins to silt;
- periodically it is necessary to disinfect and clean the well
If the aquifers are below 15 m, the choice clearly remains with the well.
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Before considering drilling a well, it is necessary to understand its general structure. The well is quite deep hole in the ground from the surface to the aquifer. To prevent it from crumbling due to the settlement of the earth, it is lowered into it. Its diameter can be in the range of 50-300 mm.
Do you want your well to last longer? Then you need to use a metal pipe. Due to the fact that the water is deep, the casing pipe must be long enough, therefore, as it goes down, it is extended with new sections using threaded connection or couplings.
Drilling a well is not a complicated process, but it is labor-intensive. It is better to do this work together.
You can plug a well with your own hands shock-rope method. To work, you will need to make a glass with which the soil will be excavated. It is a piece of pipe, on one side of which a loop is welded to which the cable will be attached, and on the other side it is necessary to make teeth and sharpen them (this procedure can be performed with a grinder).
The principle of operation is very simple: throw the glass down; falling, the teeth crash into the ground, which remains inside the glass. Use the cable to lift the glass to the surface and remove the soil. And so we repeat the procedure, slowly increasing the depth of the well.
It becomes obvious:
- that the glass should not be light;
- if you want to make a well of a large diameter (for example, for asbestos casing pipes), then you can weld a pipe of a smaller diameter on spacers inside the glass. It will roughly look like manual vegetable cutter for apples. Then the earth will not fall out of it during the lifting process.
To make it easier to lift a glass from the depths, you can use the most ancient invention of mankind - a simple block. To do this, you can build a tripod over the well from pipes. Attach a block to its top, and install a gate between the two posts. These simple devices will make the work much easier. All that remains is to wind the cable around the gate, pass the free end through the block and secure it to the glass - and you can start drilling.
Installation of the casing can be carried out after drilling the well. In this case, difficulties may arise with collapses of the well walls during its driving. In this case, the glass must be selected with a diameter larger than that of the casing pipe.
It is better to install the casing as the well deepens.
In this case, the diameter of the glass must be chosen so that it slides freely along the pipe. By the way, it will also act as a guide during drilling. Conclusion: the height of the tripod should be such that the new part of the casing pipe fits freely under it.
To ensure the lowering of the casing, during the process of deepening the well, you need to make removable handles and a stop. They will be installed at the top of the casing. Their purpose: firstly, it will be possible to hang the load; secondly, using them to rotate the pipe around its axis, achieve its smooth immersion into the well.
An equipped water well is an autonomous and reliable source water supply for a cottage or private home.
The organization of individual water supply is not always caused by the lack of a centralized water supply; the reason may be poor quality of water in the main, interruptions in supply, deterioration of the water supply network, high cost of water, its shortage, and other factors.
Almost all owners of dachas or country cottages have an autonomous source of water.
Another thing is that their choice may differ. Some people prefer a well,
Some people like a well.
By the way, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with comparative characteristics– which is better, a well or a well for water supply to a private house.
This article is for those who have chosen a well.
It should be noted that wells are divided into two types depending on the drilling depth.
Since we plan to drill with our own hands, let’s consider
in more detail the construction of sand wells, as the most accessible in terms of
independent implementation.
Drilling a water well - step-by-step instructions
1. Depth detection
- shallow (up to 3 m) well breaks through in the case
if the aquifer is located close to the ground surface, and the water
It is intended to be used only for technical needs or irrigation. For drilling
For such a well, a drill, a casing pipe and a hand pump are enough;
- medium-deep (up to 7 m) well will give the opportunity to get
water fit for human consumption. To drill yourself
In addition to a drill, a well will need a shovel and time to construct a pit. Pit (pit)
with dimensions 1.5x1.5x1.5 designed to facilitate drilling for large
depth. For ease of use, it can be reinforced with plywood or boards. After
When the work is completed, the pit is filled in. Water is supplied using a pump;
- deep (more than 7 m) well, will allow you to completely close
water needs of all residents of a private house or cottage. At the same time, water
will be sufficient not only for individual consumption, but also for
technical needs, sanitary requirements, watering, maintaining a pool or pond
(reservoir).
In general, the choice of water intake type is determined after
geological study of the location of the well. We suggest you consider
the last option is to build a deep well with your own hands, as the most
the most complex of those presented.
A detailed description of the principles of organizing water supply to a private house from a well
2. Methods of drilling a well
The listed types of wells (artesian or “on
lime" this does not apply) can be drilled using the following methods (technologies):
Auger drilling of water well Auger drilling using an auger drill.
Core drilling of a water well Core drilling (a ring-shaped drill is used).
Percussion-rope drilling of a water well Percussion-rope drilling. IN in this case A drill bit is used that is driven into the soil without excavation. The soil is simply compacted away from the axis of the bit. The chisel is driven in using a tripod with
winch.
Rotary percussion drilling of a water well Rotary percussion drilling. The work of the drill is supplemented by washing out the soil with water. The method is labor-intensive for individual use.
Rotary water well drilling Rotary drilling (provided by a mobile drilling rig).
The photo shows a small-sized drilling rig MGB50P-02S with a movable hydraulic rotator, manufactured by Horizontal.
3. Project for drilling water wells
In the event that the depth of occurrence is precisely known
aquifer can be drilled directly with the size of the casing drill
pipe. If not, you will need to first find out at what depth it lies.
aquifer.
Thus, any well is an individual project,
which is influenced by the following parameters:
- geological structure of the soil;
- selected drilling method;
- requirements for the quantity and quality of water;
- the requirement to maintain the required distances to places of contamination (arrangement of a “sanitary zone”);
- the depth of the aquifer. Moreover, this does not mean the first vein that the drill reached, but the one that will meet the conditions of use from the point of view of ensuring the flow of the well.
4. Tools for drilling water wells
Since the shock-rope method is described manual drilling, then its advantages should be noted:
- preservation of most of the useful soil layer in the original
condition. Those. heavy equipment will not damage the plantings on the site;
- no restrictions on the drilling location. With a hand drill you can
drill in almost any part of the site;
- simplicity of equipment and minimum requirements for driller qualifications.
To work you will need:
- shovel;
- drill with a reinforced cutting part. Tip: you can strengthen the drill
by welding cutters onto the screw, the role of which can be played by file elements
or a metal tire. In addition, the cutters can be sharpened using a grinder;
- cart for removing excavated soil;
- “baby” type pump with hose;
- container with water.
For arrangement you will need:
- crushed stone or gravel for a pillow;
- steel wire for filter;
- pipes;
- wire for arranging a bottom filter.
5. Selecting a location and constructing a pit
With the help of hired specialists or traditional methods
(dowsing, barometric method, using silica gel, by quantity
Russia, exploration drilling etc.) we determine the place where the aquifer
is closest to the surface.
Digging a pit for a water well Next, we dig a pit. This is the excavation of soil of a certain depth, the purpose of which is to facilitate the process of drilling a well.
Construction of the pit is an important stage for two reasons.
Firstly, the drilling depth of the drill is reduced.
Secondly, the possibility of a soil collapse around the well is eliminated.
The dimensions of the hole are determined by the driller, but are usually
1.5x1.5 and 1.5-2.5m. in depth. To prevent the soil from crumbling, the pit is strengthened
plywood, boards or metal.
6. First method: tripod - drilling rig
Installation for drilling water wells A tripod is a shock-rope mechanism for drilling water wells. Support structure will be needed in order to facilitate the drilling process through the use of a drill nozzle.
Diagram of a tripod for drilling The tripod can be made of wood (knots excluded) or metal pipe(or profile). The length of the beam or pipe should be 4-5 m. How to make a tripod for drilling can be seen in the diagram.
Drilling Cup Next, a mechanical winch with a cable on which the drill bit is attached is attached to the tripod.
Such a drilling rig is compact and has significant
margin of safety. The principle of operation of the installation is simple: when a glass falls into the ground, it absorbs
yourself soil. Depending on the composition of the soil, you can select from 20 per blow
see up to 1 m of soil. You can make the work easier by filling the drilling site with water. Time
From time to time, the drill bit needs to be cleared of soil packed into it.
Attention: The cable on which the drill is attached must be longer
well depth. Otherwise, it will break off and the drill will remain at the bottom.
The casing can be installed simultaneously with
moving to depth or after completing all work.
7. Second method - casing and drill
During the drilling process, you can immediately install the casing pipe.
Then its diameter must be greater than the diameter of the drill so that the drill can freely
move in the pipe.
While performing work, you need to constantly monitor the moisture content of the soil being removed so as not to miss the aquifer (otherwise it can be covered with a pipe). The main signs are below.
Material prepared for the site moydomik.net
Pumping dirty water After an aquifer is discovered, dirty water must be pumped out in order to understand whether there are enough water reserves in a given vein. A submersible or hand pump is used for this.
If after pumping out 2-3 buckets muddy water, the net still has not appeared, you should continue drilling until
more capacious layer.
Important: the pump is not designed for such operating conditions, therefore
After purifying the water, it may break. It is recommended to use only
quality pump.
8. Well casing
Steel or plastic pipes can be used for casing
(service life up to 50 years). But the use of galvanized pipes is not recommended,
due to the risk of water contamination with zinc impurities.
The meaning of casing is as follows:
- preventing well walls from collapsing;
- prevention of well siltation;
- eliminating the possibility of water entering the well
(water upper layers, melt or rain water);
- eliminating the risk of well clogging.
Installation of the casing pipe is carried out immediately after
completion of work or directly during the drilling process.
Advice: if the pipes are creaking, you need to apply
sledgehammer
9. Flushing the water well after drilling
The matter does not end with installing the casing pipe. Now
the well needs to be flushed. To do this, a pipe is lowered into it, through which
water is supplied under pressure. Thanks to the water pressure, a layer of clay will be washed out of the well
and sand that needs to be pumped out. After the appearance clean water it must be submitted to
analysis. Requirements for the quality of water from a well are regulated by SanPiN 2.1.4.1074-01 (Russia) or
DSanPiN 2.2.4-171-10 (Ukraine). If the water quality is satisfactory, you can
continue working.
10. Bottom filter for sand well
The purpose of the filter is to protect the pipe from silting.
Well filter - notches How to make a filter for a well?
You can make a slot filter with your own hands; to do this, you need to make notches (cuts) with a grinder at the end of the pipe.
Tip: for notches you need to use a thin disk (0.8mm). Pay attention - many notches will weaken the pipe.
Well filter - drilling holes Alternatively, you can drill holes in the pipe. Next, the place of the notches/drilling needs to be wrapped with wire or mesh. Place the filter thus obtained on a crushed stone bed, backfilling which will prevent the filter from
silt.
Advice: the diameter of the filter pipe should be smaller than the diameter of the main pipes in order to be able to plunge into the well without problems.
The most simple option There will be a purchase of a ready-made filter.
Important: without a filter, the well will not work for long. Its absence is justified only in deep-water wells (more than 40 m)
11. Water well debit
To get a complete picture of the well's capacity at
sand, you need to wait a day, and then check the level of incoming water. If
the incoming water is sufficient for the needs of users, the distance can be filled
between the soil and the casing. The pit is also buried.
12. Borehole pumping after drilling
This is a required step. To perform a swing or simply
final cleaning of the well needs to be installed centrifugal pump big
power and periodically pump out water for 1.5-2 weeks.
Advice: you should decide in advance where you will redirect
pumped out water.
13. Drilling a water well with your own hands - video
Manual technology using shock-rope method drilling a well.
14. Installation of a pump for a water well
Please note that surface type pumps are not intended
for installation in a well. Due to the depth limitation of 8 m. For these purposes
will only do submersible pump– centrifugal or vibration. Each of
subspecies has its own advantages, and the final choice can be made
after analyzing the influence of such factors as:
- well depth;
- water level in the well;
- casing diameter;
- well flow rate;
- water pressure in the well;
- cost of a well pump.
15. Commissioning of the well
If you did not drill a water well yourself,
and with the involvement of a third-party organization, then before accepting the work you need
require the following documents:
- hydrogeological conclusion on the feasibility of implementing the water well project;
- well passport;
- permission from the sanitary and epidemiological station (checks the quality of water and compliance of the sanitary zone with the requirements);
- certificate of completion.
If all the work is carried out independently, then the main thing is not to rush, but to maintain the technology and observe all the key points of the process of drilling a well at
water. However, do not forget that only the use quality materials(in particular, pipes and a pump) will be the key to long-term operation of the well.
Tags: Well Water supply
On garden plot or in a private house it is impossible to do without water. You can have a central water supply if you live in a city, but then when watering your garden, the harvest will be very expensive, since water fees increase every year. If a person lives in a village or we're talking about O summer cottage, then any water supply seems a pipe dream. There is only one way out - to drill your own well for water supply.
Currently, many have appreciated the benefits of having a water-bearing well for personal use. Dozens of companies are ready to provide paid services to ensure water supply using modern technology. However, such pleasure is not available to every person. Therefore, using improvised means, people try to drill a well with their own hands.
First you need to determine the location for the future well. The aquifer is usually located at a depth of about 10-20 meters. If there is a river or lake nearby, then the layer groundwater will be located close to the surface. A map of the location of groundwater, which is available in each executive committee, will help determine the place where it is most profitable to drill a well. settlement. The types of soil characteristic of this area are also indicated here.
Do-it-yourself well for irrigation
If water is needed only for irrigation, you can make such a well yourself using a simple drill, provided that the first layer of groundwater lies close (no more than 3 m) to the surface. The length of the drill should be increased using small diameter pipes or reinforcement rods. When passing through denser layers of soil, additional weight can be hung on the handles of the drill to reduce the load on the person. It must be taken into account that such water is not suitable for drinking, because natural purification does not occur at such a depth.
Using an ax welded to a metal rod, you need to chop off the roots of trees that get in the way of the drill.
At a depth of about two meters, wet sand will begin to appear. It is necessary to remove the drill with adhering soil approximately every 10-15 cm, otherwise the device may break under the weight of the earth.
When bluish-gray sand appears, it means the aquifer is very close. When water appears, the use of a drill loses its meaning, since liquid soil does not stay on the blades. You need to insert the casing pipe. The well for irrigation is ready. To raise water you can use manual column or electric pump.
Well for extracting drinking water using a pump
If groundwater deposits are located at a depth of about 10 meters, there is another effective and simple method to drill a well.
First you need to dig a hole about 1.5 meters deep to remove loose and loose material. upper layer soil, about the size of square meter. Cover the hole with boards for ease of further work.
Cut the steel pipe on one side with teeth according to the hacksaw principle, straightening the teeth in different sides. On the other side, make a thread for connecting to other sections of pipes using a coupling. Using a clamp, attach handles to the pipe so that you can hold it in a vertical position, at a height that will be comfortable for the person who will hold it. On the remaining pipes, make threads on both sides. The length should be about 3 meters.
Prepare a 200-liter or more barrel of water, a “Baby” type water pump, and a hose of such length that it can be lowered from the barrel into the middle of the pipe almost to the ground.
The diameter of the pipe must be at least 120 mm; in the future it will be used as a casing.
It is inconvenient to do such work alone, so it is better to find an assistant.
Turning the pipe slightly from one side to the other, deepen it as much as possible. Then turn on the pump. Water under pressure will erode the soil at the base of the pipe, and under its own weight and thanks to the efforts of the person who rotates it back and forth, it will sink deeper and deeper.
To fill the barrel, you can use the water that will pour out of the pipe, having first filtered it through a sieve, or prepare another one. By connecting pipes in series, you can quickly get to the aquifer. Having removed the unnecessary boards, the hole must be buried, strengthening the pipe in the middle. Attach a lid on top to prevent debris from getting into the well. Pump water using deep well pump or pumping station.
This is not the only way to make a well with your own hands, but it is quite simple and does not require expensive equipment or complex species works - welding, cutting, sharpening and so on.
Drilling a well using the shock-rope method
This method of water extraction is the most common. A drilling derrick is constructed from logs of medium thickness, the top of which should be located directly above the future neck of the well.
A hole measuring 1.5 x 1.5 meters with a depth of about 2 meters is dug. It is advisable to cover the walls with boards so that the earth does not crumble.
The casing pipe must be steel without side seams, with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm. In its lower part, a cone with a diameter 4-5 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe is welded around the circumference.
At the top of the pipe, a thread is rolled so that it can later be connected to other pieces of pipe using a coupling.
The pipe is installed vertically using a plumb line into the hole, not firmly fixed, but so that it does not swing. A bailer is lowered into it, tied with a strong hemp rope with a thickness of at least 20 mm or steel cable with a diameter of at least 10 mm, and the actual drilling of the well begins.
Raising the bailer to a height of up to one meter, lower it down into free fall. The soil that accumulates in the middle must be shaken out periodically, lifting the device upward using a winch.
The greater the weight of the bailer, the faster you can get to the aquifer. It usually weighs around 50 kg. Its length should be no more than 2 meters.
It is necessary to fill the bailer with soil to approximately 2/3 of its length, since if the load is excessive, the contents may clog the pipe space and this will complicate further drilling of the well.
If you encounter hard rock along the way, you need to break it up by replacing the bailer with a chisel chisel.
When water appears, the use of a bailer will be inappropriate; it must be pumped to a clean state using a deep-well pump. Then a filter must be inserted into the casing to prevent sand from getting into the well.
In this way you can drill a well up to 40 meters deep. Such water, having undergone natural purification, is soft and tasty. It is suitable for any use - for cooking, drinking or household needs.
Abyssinian tube driven well(or in our opinion - driving well) is very common in our north in private homes. Previously, in villages and towns there were many common wells, people lived a little more friendly, together they built an ordinary well with wooden log house, used, repaired and cleaned it together.
Now the situation has changed, there are fewer wells, and water has become simply a necessity of life. Therefore, in your private home it is better to have your own well, or even better - two. One well, as a rule, is installed inside the house (usually right under the hatch in the underground), the other - near the bathhouse on the street. This provides water for the home, the bathhouse, and the garden, and there is always a backup water supply.
The good thing about driving a well is that it can be done almost in a day (if all the components are present). Its cost is low, the process is simplified as much as possible, therefore, if there is a good aquifer, this is one of the best options water supply of a private house. Preparatory work can be leisurely spent in winter period. Not bad before plugging the well walk around the neighbors, find out the depth to the water surface, look at nearby wells.
First, pipes are purchased at a rate of up to 15 meters. In our area, we usually use 3/4-inch galvanized (stainless steel is hard to get). Recently, an inch pipe is sometimes used.
Then they order a local craftsman to manufacture the components of the structure. The most an important part tube well- intake filter. It is made from the same pipe (sometimes they take a thicker one, well - from of stainless steel). The length of the intake is approximately determined by the aquifer. With a good core, an intake length of only 0.5 meters is enough, maximum length- up to 1.5 meters.
The cone for the intake must be ordered from a turner. The cone is either welded to the intake pipe or mounted on a thread. Numerous holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled along the entire length of the pipe in a checkerboard pattern, then they are wrapped in mesh and soldered along the edge with tin solder. The mesh for the intake is a separate issue. You won’t be able to find the recommended P52 stainless steel right away, so experts keep an eye on and keep mesh that has already proven itself. Good mesh for the intake, it holds a puddle of water on itself, preventing it from just leaking. In general, it is not recommended to use mesh made of non-ferrous metals due to corrosion, but in our water there are examples of the service life of intakes with non-ferrous mesh for up to 20 years.
Recently, with the advent of stainless steel self-tapping screws with a large head, a method has appeared for attaching the mesh to self-tapping screws. To do this, a series of 2-2.5mm holes are drilled along the entire length of the intake pipe. After wrapping the mesh, it is pressed with stainless tape using self-tapping screws using a screwdriver along the entire length of the pipe, then cut. Simple and tasteful! It is not customary to wrap the mesh on top with wire - it gives practically nothing. If the intake catches on something strong in the ground, the wire will not help, the mesh will definitely break.
Extension pipes are cut into pieces of 1.5-2 meters, depending on the soil. If the soil is loose and the pipes go into the ground well, you can make them longer. The couplings are exclusively steel, so as not to burst, the threads on the pipes are half coupling. The couplings are usually mounted on flax with paint; modern FUM tapes are not rated. 
The ground is drilled with an ordinary fishing drill with a modified handle. The modification consists in the possibility of attaching extension elbows and replacing the rotator with a T-shaped handle. They remove the drill from the ground by hand, usually together. This is possible when traveling up to 6 meters. There were interesting cases when, when removing the drill, they hung it by the long handle on telephone wires, bringing true joy to signalmen when searching for damage to the telephone network.
When signs of quicksand appear, drilling is stopped - there is no point in drilling further. A prepared pipe with an intake is lowered into the well, and a beater is taken into hand. This is an ordinary, preferably birch, block, into which metal staples are hammered vertically on two opposite sides. You can score together, you can score alone. If the end of the pipe is high, use a stepladder. Using even blows, drive the intake into the aquifer. The aquifer is checked by pouring water into the pipe from a kettle. If the water leaves without stopping, then there is an aquifer.
Now use a rubber hose with clamps to attach a hand pump and pump out the water. With a shallow water surface (4-6 meters) and a good vein lift water from a well hand pump simply and easily. Next, the water is examined for transparency, tasted, tested for soapiness, the water is allowed to settle, and the water is boiled. If the water is clean, tasty, does not form a film when settling, and does not produce sediment, then it is good. Time will tell how good it is. If desired and possible, you can submit the water to a laboratory for analysis.
If you don’t like the quality of the water, we drive the pipes further, controlling the depth, and periodically checking the presence of an aquifer by pouring water. As a rule, if good water found at deeper horizons, the water surface will still be leveled along the first aquifer, although water will be drawn from the second or third layer. Usually you can plug a well up to 14-15 meters, then it’s already difficult and unrealistic. If the water surface remains below 9 meters, it is practically impossible to take it with any vacuum pump.
You can lower the pump a couple of meters, dig a pit, or you can simply make a well in a pit for storing vegetables, placing a water pumping station directly in the pit, this is very convenient for operation.
If there is no water (good water), the pipes are removed; if there are difficulties, a jack is used.
In good, not very deep wells, the entire structure is removed at once, and can be inserted back without much difficulty.
In general, the search for aquifers on the first (near) horizon is a topic for a separate discussion. The main search method (according to experts) is dowsing using a rod or dowsing frame. The method is not scientific, but nevertheless sometimes produces amazing results.
The occurrence of an aquifer in the ground is often not tied to the levels of nearby reservoirs. Kozma Prutkov (according to legend, our fellow countryman) once said that “the depth of water flows in the earth is similar to the blood flow in a person and does not depend on the height of the place above a river or lake.” In some villages of the neighboring Lensky district, which are located on the high bank of the Vychegda, the depth to the water surface in the wells is only 1.5-2 meters.
After finding good water, you can prepare the well for further operation. It is necessary to level the height of the pipe above the ground, as convenient for connection. You can replace the last elbow with another of the appropriate length, or saw off the excess part and cut the thread. The thread on the last elbow is necessary to install the valve and connect the hoses. 
Previously, the valve was placed below the intake; it was believed that this way it held the water column better. But a valve is still a complex device, and a complex device tends to fail more often. Therefore, they began to place the valve at the top in front of the pump. It holds the pole no worse, but it can always be changed.
If the well is operated only in summer time (country house), then to winter time the valve must be removed. Then the column of water will fall to its natural level, and nothing will break up anywhere. In the spring you just need to put the valve in place and raise the water. In the same way, you can use water even in cold weather, but you should not leave water in the pump.
After the check valve, a water pumping station or electric pump is connected through a pipe or hose. A vacuum is created in this place, so a hose must be used high pressure, otherwise it will be flattened.
There are options for installing the drive well itself on the street: connect a pipe (for example, metal plastic) to the well in the pit, and lead the pipe into the basement of the house where the water pumping station is installed. To operate the water pumping station, it is necessary to lay a power supply line from a separate machine at the rated current into the basement.
The pit above the well must provide access to the connection; it must be insulated so that the pipes do not freeze in winter.
Water pumping stations for the most part do not create a large vacuum for suction; they can only operate with a steady column and when the entire system is filled with water. Therefore, for the initial raising of water, a manual one is usually used. Vacuum pump. It can be connected separately before the water pumping station through a closing valve, or it can be connected in series after the water pumping station. After the water rises and the receiver is filled, the system will work automatically. A column of liquid will constantly stand in the pipe. Even check valve starts to leak, then the water pumping station will not allow the pump to become airy, turning on automatically in a timely manner when the pressure in the receiver decreases.
There are ways to raise water from a well directly using a water pumping station. To do this, we need a sealed tank with a volume of at least the total volume of the pipe up to the natural water surface, connected to the pipe at the inlet of the water pumping station. To fill the tank with water, you need a shut-off fitting. After filling the reservoir, the pump itself, and the inlet pipe to the valve with water, you need to close the fitting valve and turn on the station, having first opened the water taps to reduce the pressure in the receiver. Then the water pumping station will begin to pump water from the inlet reservoir to the receiver and further. A vacuum (vacuum) will be created in the inlet tank, which will open the check valve and begin to raise the column of water in the well pipes. The amount of water in the inlet reservoir should be sufficient until the column in the well rises completely. After the water column has risen, the tank can be turned off with a valve
There are special water pumping stations that independently create a vacuum to raise water.
During the operation of a driven well (usually after several years), the water flow slows down due to clogging of the intake grid. In this case, the pipes are removed from the well and either the intake grid or the entire intake is cleaned or replaced, depending on the condition. It happens that washing the mesh does not do anything, because it becomes covered with a strong, hard layer of deposits that no brush can remove.
It happens that the water in the well disappears due to the disappearance of water in this layer. The reasons for the disappearance of water can be different, both natural and man-made. Aquifers in the upper horizons are not accessible everywhere and are not very constant.
To construct a well in the absence of nearby water, it is necessary to drill deeply and construct a well with a casing pipe.
Recently, due to the emergence of private companies involved in drilling and installing wells, interesting technologies for driving wells, one might say, disposable ones, have appeared. To construct a well, a metal-plastic pipe is used, which is much cheaper than steel. But metal plastic cannot be driven into the ground due to its softness. Therefore, a reusable composite rod made of carbon steel is used for driving. The intake is made as usual, only at the base of the tip inside the intake a conical recess is made into which the driving rod will rest. An elbow made of a metal-plastic pipe is connected to the intake through a coupling, the structure is lowered into the drilled well, and a driving rod is inserted into the pipe, which rests against the conical recess of the intake. An anvil is screwed onto a steel rod and the intake is hammered through the steel rod. After reaching the aquifer, the rod is removed and the pipe is connected to the pump. Such a well is cheaper than a standard one made from galvanized, and even more so from stainless pipe.
Just recently, a friend shared his experience of flushing the intake without lifting the well. His well productivity has dropped over the past two years. Lifting the well alone was a lot of work, so he decided to flush the intake. To do this, I filled the bath with water, lowered the Agidel pump into the bath, connected the pump outlet to the well, removing the check valve. Having crossed himself, he turned on the pump and pumped all the water from the bath back into the well. After this procedure, the water from the well came out in full flow and there have been no problems with water for more than a month.
Appeared interesting information about new well designs. Instead of a cone at the bottom, a wood drill with a slightly larger diameter than the pipe is welded onto the intake. In this case, the well is not clogged, but simply twisted into the ground like a gimlet. On light soils, you can do without preliminary drilling at all, and drill directly with the intake.
For normal life support, there must be constant water in the house or country house. Most often the sources are a well or a borehole. Preferably a well. Firstly, because, as a rule, fairly deep-lying aquifers with more clean water. Secondly, they last longer. Thirdly, their flow rate (replenishment rate) is much higher. It is also important that it is possible to drill water wells with your own hands. There are several technologies, you just need to choose.
Water near your home is always good
Methods for self-drilling water wells
Wells for water are drilled or driven - different technologies suggest different ways. Drilling water wells with your own hands is not possible with all methods, but some can be used.
Auger drilling
With this technology, a well is drilled using a special drill - an auger. This is a steel pipe with blades welded in a spiral. When rotating, the projectile sinks into the ground. After it has gone to its full depth, it is taken out and the soil remaining on the blades is poured out. The auger is lowered into the well again, with a pipe growing on top, and excavation continues. So, taking out the shell over and over again and shaking off the soil, they drill a well. The pipes at the ends can be threaded or connected using studs.
The disadvantage of this method is that it is not suitable for all types of soil. Normally, soft or medium-hard rocks are drilled. If a stony or rocky layer is encountered, the work will be ineffective - the auger is powerless here. In loose soils, there will be blockages, which is also problematic.
Quite powerful installations use this technology, but there are even hand-held auger drills. It is very difficult to work with them, but it is possible. There is a simple device that makes auger drilling of water wells with your own hands easier - it’s a tripod with a collar and a block fixed at the top. With the help of a cable, a winch and a block, it is easier to remove the drill bit, and this must be done often.
Motorized drilling rigs are more convenient, and not necessarily purchased ones. Eat interesting homemade products. In any case, it is a frame with a movably mounted motor that drives the drill. An example of such an installation is in the following video. The auger drill is not used for water wells, but the essence of the installation itself and the operating principle do not change.
At small sizes auger and rods that increase the length (up to 1.5 m), this method of drilling water wells can also be used inside a house, cottage, or bathhouse. The main thing is that the soils are suitable.
Hydro stimulation (using a pump or pump)
As the name implies, this method uses water to drill wells. At independent use Most often, water is pumped into a pipe. It comes out through special holes at the bottom of the drill and flows out by gravity through the gap between the outer wall of the pipe and the walls of the well.
In addition to the drill and threaded pipes, this method also requires a pump. Before starting work, two pits are dug near the future well. In the first, the bulk of the soil settles, in the second, water enters, devoid of most of the impurities. The process requires little water - it circulates constantly. From the first pit, sediment is periodically removed, usually with a shovel. If necessary, if the water has become too dirty, it can be replaced. It is pumped out using the same pump, only it is not fed into the well, but discharged somewhere on the site. Bay new batch water drilling can continue.
After the well has reached the required depth, a casing pipe with a filter at the end is inserted into it. Recently, HDPE or PVC pipe is most often used. It is easier to work with HDPE - it bends well. The filter is holes drilled at the end of the casing. The length of such a filter is about a meter. Then you can wind stainless steel wire on top, and a fine mesh made of the same stainless steel on top.
Shock-rope method
One of the easiest ways to make a well yourself is the shock-rope method. But it is also the slowest and, in the absence of mechanization, requires significant physical effort. On the other hand, it can be considered as a simulator. Moreover, it is very effective - almost all muscles of the body work.
Do-it-yourself percussion-rope drilling of water wells is a universal method that can be used on any type of soil. Only the projectile changes, but the technology and installation remain the same:
Rope drilling installation can be done in different ways. The most common type is a tripod, in the center of which a block is fixed. But the block can also be attached to an L-shaped structure; an electric motor with a gearbox can also be used to make work easier.
Tripod - the most common type of installation
The technology of percussion-rope drilling itself is very simple: the projectile is lifted and released into free fall. This is repeated many times. With each blow the hole gets a little deeper. When a section of 50 cm has been covered, the projectile is removed and freed from the ground. And everything repeats itself again.
To drill faster, you need a heavy projectile. If the pipe walls are thick, the mass can already be significant. If necessary, you can make it heavier by filling the top of the pipe with lead. Also, to speed up the passage, the lower edge can be sharpened, but this must be done so that the bevel is directed inward. One more thing: pay attention to the slots in the drill bits. They make it easier to remove rock. This is especially important when passing through dense, viscous clay layers.
A cable for a shock-rope drilling rig needs a diameter of 10-12 mm. If you will be working manually, gloves are required. When going through the upper layers it is easier to use hand drill, and for easier passage of the upper layers in dry times, you can pour water into the drilled well.
Casing and filter
All technologies described above self-drilling water wells have common features. After the well reaches the aquifer (water will appear in the rock in large quantities), they continue to drill for some time, going 1-2 meters deep into the aquifer. The entire drill assembly is then disassembled and casing is installed inside the well.
The casing needs to be dealt with. Select the diameter depending on the size of the well you drilled and the type of pump you plan to use. You must carefully consider the choice of material. For some time, casing was used asbestos pipes. But they are very harmful - a strong carcinogen. You should not use galvanized pipes either - zinc is not removed from the body and accumulates. And poisoning with it has very bad consequences.
Remains different big choice- pipes made of steel and stainless steel, as well as plastic - HDPE and PVC. Stainless steel - almost perfect option, except for the price and complexity of welding. To prevent the seam from rusting, welding in an argon environment is necessary, but this is not easy. Although, special stainless steel can help to some extent.
IN last years Plastic pipes are becoming increasingly popular. PVC and HDPE are cheap and cheerful, but to install them, the well must be perfectly level. Another point is that plastic does not withstand loads very well. Therefore, they can be used at shallow depths - up to 15 meters. In any case, use them for a well sewer pipes It’s not worth it, it’s better to find water ones, although they are more expensive: their walls are of different thicknesses, so the investment will be worth it.
Steel pipes definitely won’t crumple and will last a long time, but they also have a significant drawback: they rust. However, of the options described above, metal is the optimal one if you can’t afford stainless steel.
In order for water to flow into the casing pipe, a filter is made in its lower part, which is immersed in the aquifer. Holes are made in the pipe. There are two options. The first is with a large diameter drill, in four rows in a checkerboard pattern. The second is to cut longitudinal slits with a grinder (size 1.5-2.5 mm).
A wire (3-4 mm in diameter) is wound on top of the pipe, and a mesh with a very fine mesh is attached on top of it. It is best to use stainless steel. In this case, it will be possible to wash the filter from deposits using washing solutions, and the wire and mesh can be welded to the pipe.
If you use any other metal, the filter will fail after a while. Ferrous metal rusts, the rest is destroyed due to electrolytic corrosion.
Abyssinian well or needle well
This is a type of manual drilling of water wells and cannot be called drilling - a special rod with a cast cone-shaped tip is driven into the ground, increasing as needed with rod pipes (each 1-2 meters long), which are connected using threads. This type of well is called differently: driven, Abyssinian, needle. All this is about one method.
The difference from all other methods is that these pipes remain in the ground, and it is through them that water will flow. That is, this is a well without installing a casing pipe. It is pierced with the help of these pipes, and then they are used. Therefore, as rods used to extend the needle, they use water pipes with a thick wall. Diameter from 25 -32 mm. Since pipes become clogged forever, their connection must be airtight. Traditionally, to increase reliability, they use a winding (usually linen), which can be coated with sealant.
The first element of the Abyssinian well is called the needle. But the lance tip is far from the only difference between this part and the others. Holes are drilled into it almost the entire length of the pipe. This is a water filter. Water will flow inside through them. To prevent them from becoming clogged with rock, a wire is wound in a spiral over the pipe, and a fine mesh is attached to it. In order for the well to serve for a long time and not become clogged, it is possible to do flushing, the wire and mesh must be made of stainless steel. Only in this option will the filter serve for a long time and without problems. The use of other metals, even stainless ones, greatly reduces the service life of the well - the metals are destroyed due to electrolytic corrosion. Therefore, brass, copper or any other wire or mesh on steel pipe unsuitable.
The first element of the Abyssinian well is a needle with a lance tip and a filter
One more thing. To prevent the mesh and winding from being torn off when driving, they are welded to the pipe. Next moment: The diameter of the wide part of the cone should be wider than the diameter of the pipe. When hammered, the cone leaves a hole wider than the wound pipe that follows, so it will not be torn off.
The technical process of driving a needle hole is extremely simple: they hit the pipe, driving it into the ground. But if you hit the top of the pipe with something heavy, it will become deformed. That's why they do it special device- a headstock and a cone that is screwed onto the top of the pipe. Inside the headstock, the striking surface also has the shape of a cone. The existing cavities inside are filled with lead to increase weight. The more the projectile weighs, the faster the pipe will clog, but keep in mind that you need to lift it with your hands and many times.
The diameter of the woman itself is much larger than the pipe that will be plugged. To ensure that there is no play when it moves, a washer of suitable diameter (slightly larger than the outer diameter of the pipe) is installed at the bottom. As a result, the headstock moves up/down freely, but without any play. The lifting height of the projectile is determined by its size - it must not fly off the pipe being clogged. Appearance the headstocks for driving the Abyssinian well and its drawing are located below.
This is not the only device with which wells are plugged. They put a powerful clamp on the pipe, which is fixed like a clamp. Instead of a headstock, a heavy metal ring with two handles is used. Watch the video to see how they work.
As you can see, you can drill a water well inside the house or even at the bottom of an old well. You don't need much space.
How to equip a broken well
Punching/drilling a well is not enough. We still need to raise the water, but that’s a completely different story. If you want to make the water supply constant, with normal pressure, so that you can connect household appliances, you will need .
For seasonal water supply at the dacha, you can get by with a more modest set:
- vibration pump;
- check valve, which is installed in front of the pump;
- water container;
- watering hose;
- taps, etc.
Please note that the check valve is installed in front of the pump, and not at the end of the hose immersed in the well. It’s just that this same hose won’t break when it freezes. Another advantage of such a device is that it is easier to dismantle for the winter.
Another piece of advice: the well needs to be covered with something. In houses permanent residence they make a caisson - a concrete or plastic bunker that is located below the freezing depth. All equipment is placed in it. When using water only periodically, a caisson is too expensive. But something needs to be done to close the well. Firstly, some living creatures may fall into it, which will not make you happy. Secondly, “good” neighbors may drop something. A more budget-friendly solution is to build. Even more cheap option- dig a pit, cover it with a board, make a board cover. Key moment: All this must be locked.
