Potato germination time after planting. Planting and growing potatoes under straw or hay, in bags, in soil, in barrels: technology and methods. Potatoes did not rise

Potatoes have long been considered the “second bread” due to their availability, satiety, harmonious combination with many products. It turns out to be especially tasty and healthy if grown in your own garden. But here there is a need for certain knowledge and experience, otherwise there is a high probability of not only getting a small harvest, but also not waiting for shoots at all. In the article we will tell you why potatoes do not sprout well, and we will give advice on proper planting and caring for tubers during storage.

In order to choose the time to plant potatoes in the garden, you need to focus on the following criteria:

Air temperature.
Soil moisture, which should promote germination and not rotting or drying out of seeds.
The planting schedule for early and late varieties will also be different.

If the air temperature can be seen on a thermometer, then the level of soil heating can be monitored by natural phenomena. Early potato varieties can be planted when the soil begins to revive earthworms, and late ones, to be stored, during the flowering of dandelions. Many experienced gardeners also rely on lunar planting calendars. cultivated plants. .

What prevents the emergence of seedlings

Typically, from the day of planting in consistently warm weather, seedlings begin to appear within 10 days. The maximum waiting period is up to 20 days, which is typical for northern latitudes, as well as in cool May conditions. It is considered inappropriate to wait any longer for the emergence of seedlings; even if they appear, the tubers most likely will not have time to properly grow and ripen. What can cause the lack of seedlings within the recommended time frame?

Violations of landing conditions

Even if deadlines and certain weather conditions When planting, if subsequent days are not warm enough or cloudy, the emergence of seedlings may be delayed. What are the requirements and possible deviations from the norm you need to know:

Conditions	Violations
The air temperature should remain at least 10°C.	If temperature regime is not observed, that is, there is a possibility that the potatoes will simply lie in the ground in the form in which they were planted. Unforeseen weather conditions include only unexpected night frosts, but already planted seeds can tolerate a short-term drop in temperature quite easily.
Soil moisture	If the ground has not had time to dry out a little from melt water, the planting material may simply rot. This risk also exists when planting in lowlands. Conversely, planting potatoes in dry soil without subsequent proper watering will not allow the plant to develop. The same applies to planting using unconventional methods without digging under grass, straw, and hay. In this case, it is necessary to more carefully monitor the soil moisture, since it dries out faster.
Planting depth	Choose a suitable depth planting material follows depending on the composition of the earth. In heavy soils, planting on the recommended spade bayonet may result in young shoots not breaking through. upper layer land. In sandy soils and loams, shallow planting can lead to accelerated drying of the soil at the level where the tubers are located and, as a result, a lack of moisture for the development of shoots.
Tillage	Pre-planting tillage includes plowing and harrowing, unless we are talking about non-traditional growing methods. When planted in unbroken plowed soil, the sprouts will develop under clods of earth and emerge weakened and at different intervals.

Quality of potatoes intended for planting

What to watch out for here:

tubers affected by diseases, and the assessment should take place not only by external signs, but also on the cut;
varieties not suitable for cultivation in this region;
tubers that do not have developed sprouts;
too large or small sizes;
rotten or damaged planting material;
treated with chemicals that prevent potatoes from sprouting.

Damage by diseases or pests

In addition to careful selection healthy potatoes for planting, due attention must be paid to possible contamination of the soil for planting. If last year the crop in this place was susceptible to any diseases, then there is a high probability that the infection will persist in the soil. They can only be saved by carrying out measures to disinfect the land, or changing the planting site..

Pest invasion after burrowing into the ground

Planting potatoes under hay, straw, or grass without first drying the covering material can lead to the colonization and reproduction of harmful microorganisms in it, which will have a detrimental effect on the planting material. Plus, there is a risk of mice settling under the covering material; this is one of the disadvantages of this planting method.

Tip #1. Young shoots can be destroyed by mole crickets, moles, as well as wireworms and beetle larvae that make passages and sometimes settle in the tubers themselves.

How to increase potato germination

Based on the reasons listed above that reduce the quality of potato seedlings, actions to improve them partially become clear. But in practice, it is possible to use additional methods to increase the germination of planting material.

Methods	Description
Pre-germination (vernalization)	Traditionally, about a month before planting, the seed material is laid out in one layer (maximum two if there is not enough space) in a bright room with a temperature of 10-16°C. Usually for these purposes I use a veranda, loggia, summer buildings, where during the day the room is heated by the sun, and at night, if there is a threat of frost, the seeds can be covered. It is recommended to spray the seeds with water daily, but it is better to determine the required frequency of this procedure individually. There are many other ways to revive tubers: wet germination, in plastic bags and others.
Treatment with biological products	At the germination stage or immediately before planting, treat with humic fertilizers - preparations that improve seed germination.
Disinfection	The treatment is carried out followed by drying before planting with one of the following solutions: copper sulfate (0.011%), potassium permanganate (0.001%), boric acid (1%).
Careful sorting of planting material.	It is carried out before and after germination. Spoiled and diseased seeds are removed. Tubers with thick sprouts 2-3 cm are best suited for planting. It is recommended to plant small potatoes two in one hole.
Soil preparation	At traditional methods When planting soil in holes, the dug up soil must be harrowed or clods of earth must be broken up with a rake. In case of planting seeds under hay, straw, compost, covering material must first be dried. If necessary, organic fertilizers are applied.

Tubers with at least three well-developed thick sprouts no more than 1 cm long are suitable for planting. You can sprout potatoes in wooden boxes.

Tip #2. P It is better to prepare soil for planting in the fall. Autumn work includes digging, mulching, and applying organic fertilizers.

To improve seedlings and potato yield in general, the method of natural farming is now often used: there is no digging with turning over layers of earth. Fertility and improved structure are achieved by constant mulching with grass. Preparation before planting includes harrowing or loosening followed by digging a hole or furrow for seeds or seedlings.

How does germination in a greenhouse differ from open ground?

Planting potato seeds in a greenhouse or hotbed can not only improve the quality of seedlings, but also contribute to greater yields than when planted in open ground. Factors that determine the difference between the emergence of seedlings in greenhouse conditions and open ground:

The possibility of earlier planting of seeds contributes to the emergence of seedlings earlier than planting outdoors.
The risk of destruction of planted tubers by insects is reduced.
Low disease threshold, subject to careful seed selection.
It is possible to create a certain temperature and light regime, eliminating the threat of frost, and being able to maintain the required humidity.

In greenhouse conditions, plant growth and development are affected by fewer unfavorable factors external environment, therefore, planted seeds in most cases germinate 100%.

What questions do gardeners most often encounter when growing potatoes?

Question No. 1. Is it necessary to carry out any preparation of potato tubers before planting?

Seed preparation, if possible, will certainly play a big role. For example, potatoes that have not been germinated in advance can sprout, but this process will take longer and it is not a fact that sprouting will be uniform. On the contrary, potatoes laid out a month before planting in a bright and warm place will begin to sprout even before they hit the ground. In addition, during this time, healthy and diseased seeds will outwardly manifest themselves, which will make it possible to pre-sort them.

Question No. 2. Is it possible to plant green potatoes?

Typically, when exposed to sunlight, a substance is formed in potatoes that causes the tubers to turn green. It is not recommended to use such a product, but, on the contrary, it is more suitable as a planting material. It is believed that such potatoes are more resistant to diseases, adverse weather conditions, and are also protected from rodent invasion.

Question No. 3. Is it better to plant potatoes with long shoots or small ones?

Often when storing potato seeds in a cellar or other damp places it begins to germinate earlier than necessary due to the onset of above-zero temperatures. As a result, by the time of planting, you can get long, thin sprouts more than 10 cm long. But as a result of the lack of a sufficient quantity sunlight The sprouts turn out twisted, weak and brittle. It is advisable to monitor their occurrence and initial stage remove carefully. It is better to plant when the eyes have just begun to move or when there are strong shoots of short length.

Question No. 4. What primarily affects the germination and subsequent quality of potatoes?

The very first step in preparing to plant potatoes is right choice seeds They must be collected from healthy bushes. You can also purchase healthy, virus-free material from the manufacturer. Sufficient attention should be paid to how the tubers were stored in winter. .

Not only is it assessed appearance, but also on the cut, where there may be signs of damage by various diseases. Presence and condition of eyes. It is also worth choosing varieties suitable for growing in a given climate. The second stage will be preparing the soil, and maybe even just choosing a planting method. Because now they are increasingly moving away from traditional digging of the garden.

Question No. 5. Do I need to water potatoes immediately after planting?

Here it depends on the situation, everything depends on the climate zone, soil composition, planting time. As a rule, seeds are planted in April-May, when the soil has not yet lost moisture from melt water. Therefore, with this approach, watering during planting is not necessary. It would be advisable, in the absence of rain, to water a few days after planting. Later sowing assumes that the soil is already sufficiently dry, so rain or watering will be required to revive the seeds in the ground.

The most common mistakes that lead to deterioration of potato seedlings

Skip the sprouting step for potatoes before planting. This means planting seeds that have not revived after winter and which do not know how they will behave in the soil. Store-bought potatoes, for example, may be processed and not sprout at all.
Choosing a place for germination. WITH winter storage Potatoes intended for planting are obtained in about a month, at least two weeks. Place them in a well-lit place, because if there is not enough light, the sprouts will be long and weak. At the same time, the room where the seeds are to be germinated should not be hot. Otherwise, the tubers may dry out greatly and, as a result, lose strength for the further development of the plant.
Selecting a site for planting where the predecessors were nightshades: peppers, tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes themselves. In addition to tired soil, you can also get diseases that are common to these plants.

The article will provide tips and techniques for growing potatoes.

Potatoes are the main crop in many countries around the world. It is grown in their garden plots by many summer residents. However, potato yields are not always as high as we would like.

For greater yields, you need to choose the right potato varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests
You need to experiment with planting methods, because the method may differ in each region. It depends on the climate, soil conditions, humidity
The right fertilizers can ensure health and proper growth for your potatoes and increase productivity
Protection from pests and diseases is an important stage in growing potatoes. Colorado potato beetles and late blight are the most common problems in all regions
Land preparation, hilling and weeding of bushes also affect the quantity and quality of the harvest.

Potato varieties for planting: photo, description

Early potato varieties:

These potato varieties can be dug up within 45 - 60 days after planting
"Ariel" is a potato with medium-sized tubers, yellow flesh and skin. Susceptible to late blight. The pulp is resistant to blackening. The variety quickly grows tubers, but with diseases this process slows down
"Riviera" - potatoes with oval yellow tubers. Rarely subject to blackening. Not resistant to diseases, which is why it requires additional processing
“Izora” is a potato with white skin and light flesh. It has a medium-sized bush, ready for harvest 50 - 65 days after planting. Has good taste. Not resistant to diseases
“Impala” - this variety has high yields and large tubers. However, it is better to grow it in regions with warm climates.

Variety "Riviera"

Mid-season potato varieties:

“Dubrava” is a variety of Belarusian selection. It has medium round fruits with a dense brownish skin. Loves mineral fertilizers, drought resistant. Resistant to nematode and cancer. Moderately resistant to late blight
“Skarb” is an oblong shaped potato variety with yellow soft skin and light yellow flesh. It is recommended to practice germination beforehand, since seedlings germinate quite slowly. Takes root well on all types of soils, resistant to diseases
“Universal” is a potato with brownish-colored tubers and rough skin. The pulp is white. The variety is well stored and resistant to damage, pests and diseases

Variety "Impala"

Late-ripening potato varieties:

Choosing the time to plant potatoes - important factor in receiving good harvest. There are several rules that will clearly help you choose the time to plant potatoes in any region:

Soil and air temperature is a very important factor. In cold soil, potatoes simply will not germinate, and if the air temperature drops sharply, the sprouts will simply freeze
The soil must have a temperature above 6 degrees at a depth of 10 cm
The air temperature should not drop below -1 degree, there should be no severe frosts at night
Another important nuance- soil moisture. After abundant melting of snow, you cannot immediately begin planting. The soil should be moist but loose

The main factor is soil temperature. The potatoes will remain in the ground for some time and will not be affected by external temperatures. It’s also not worth delaying the landing, waiting for it to warm up.

Approximate time to plant potatoes in different regions:

In the Urals and Moscow region, it is better to start planting in the first half of May, after the May holidays
In Siberia the temperature is lower, so planting begins in late May - early June
In the southern regions of Russia and Ukraine - at the end of April - early May
In the south of Ukraine - in mid-April

Also, you can check with lunar calendar for planting potatoes. However, you should not rely on it completely. After all, it does not take into account regional characteristics, but only the influence of the forces of the Moon on plants

The best predecessors for potatoes:

Cabbage
Beet
Salad
cucumbers
Peas, beans
Pumpkin
Zucchini

Potatoes should not be planted after:

Tomatov
Pertsev
Eggplant

Do potatoes need to be watered when planting?

When planting potatoes, you should not water them. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, the soil should already be moist at the time of planting. Secondly, the tuber for planting already contains a certain amount of moisture, which it will transfer to the future sprout
Watering for potatoes is needed, well, at a different period. When the buds appear and the drought begins. Watering should be done at the root so that moisture does not get on the leaves.

Treatment of potatoes when planting against the Colorado potato beetle

Treatment of crops against the Colorado potato beetle begins even before planting potatoes. When processing, use special chemicals which are sold in gardening stores
Then the potatoes are processed after the sprouts have grown by 15 cm. For this, a special solution is used: 150 g per 10 liters of water copper sulfate. This procedure must be done in two stages. Second stage - 12 days after the first
The famous drug “Prestige” fights Colorado potato beetles well, but has a toxic composition. It can only be used if harvesting is scheduled for August
The safest way is to collect pests and their larvae by hand. This procedure must be done as needed
A folk remedy is to use a decoction of wormwood, which repels beetles. You can regularly spray the bushes with it
Also, mint, sage, matiola, and calendula can be placed between the bushes. These plants repel Colorado potato beetles

How long does it take for potatoes to sprout after planting?

If the soil temperature at planting was below 10 degrees, then seedlings will appear on the 20th - 25th day
If higher, then after 15 - 20 days
Sprouted tubers sprout much faster (on average, a week)
To make the tubers sprout faster, it is better not to bury them to great depths. Especially if frosts are not expected
To ensure uniform germination, you need to choose tubers of the same size and variety. They need to be germinated for the same amount of time.

Distance when planting potatoes between rows, holes

Potato variety determines the best spacing between rows
Early varieties are best planted at a distance of 60 - 70 cm
Late varieties - at least 70 cm, better - about 80 - 85 cm
When calculating the distance between holes, also take into account the variety. It is better to plant early varieties at a distance of 20 - 25 cm, late and middle ones - more than 30 cm

Potato planting depth

For northern and central latitudes, the depth should be 10 - 12 cm, for southern latitudes 14 - 16 cm
Also, planting depth depends on soil type.
Light soils - about 12 cm
Heavy soils - up to 10 cm
Peaty soils - up to 7 cm

How to grow a second potato crop?

There are several mandatory conditions that will allow you to grow two potato crops in temperate and southern latitudes:

Sufficiently fertilized and fertile soil. To fulfill this condition, it needs to be fertilized starting in the fall. Next, apply fertilizer at each planting and during growth.
Choosing a potato variety. In order for it to have time to grow and ripen, early varieties are needed
Complete thawing of snow and warming of the soil. The weather conditions, especially in the central regions, are not always pleasing with early warmth. But there are a few tricks that will help warm the soil faster
As soon as the snow melts and the frosts end, the soil is watered with hot water (up to 65 degrees). And then early varieties are planted
It is necessary to germinate potatoes before each planting.

Technology for growing young and early potatoes

The tubers definitely need to be sprouted. This is done in a bright and fairly warm room (up to 15 degrees) a month before planting the potatoes in the ground. Potato tubers need to be turned over periodically so that they germinate evenly
For getting new potatoes V as soon as possible early varieties are planted in prepared furrows. You need to maintain a distance (50 -60 cm between rows, 20 -25 cm between tubers)
If frost suddenly sets in, the potatoes need to be covered with film, hay or tops
Sometimes you need to water the potatoes, the soil should not be too wet. The ideal interval between waterings is a week - 10 days.
When flowering ends, young potatoes can be dug up. It is better to dig up the tubers gradually as they are used

Method of planting and growing potato sprouts

This technology has been known for quite a long time. Its essence is growing potatoes without using tubers. To grow new bushes we need sprouts, which are obtained during germination
These sprouts settle like seedlings into reinforced soil
There are two types of sprouts - light and shadow. Shadows appear when germinated in warm conditions, but dark place. Light - in light and moderate temperatures. Light sprouts are more durable and do not break
First, the tubers need to be planted in peat cups, fertilize and wait for germination. Then, separate these sprouts and transplant them into separate peat pots with soil
When the sprouts take root, they can be transplanted into the soil to a permanent place
Only mid-season and late potato varieties are suitable for this method.
Plus this method- significant savings seed material. The downside is the cost of labor and time. No difference in yield was found

How to plant and grow potatoes without digging up the soil?

In the classical planting method, digging the soil is an important step when growing any crops. It allows the soil to become saturated with oxygen and raise fertile layers
However, as practice shows, yields are not always different
This is especially true for planting methods when planting is carried out at shallow depths. In this case, loosening with a rake is sufficient.
True, there are also disadvantages. The first is the difficulty of harvesting. The second is root crops that are smaller in size than with dug up soil

Why does hilling help increase potato yield?

When hilling, the tubers grow up the stem. Thanks to this, the harvest is better and larger, and the bush itself is stronger
Hilling allows you to saturate the soil with oxygen and nutrients, which will affect productivity
It protects the plant from frost, strong winds and other bad weather.
Hilling improves the supply of moisture to the root system of the plant
This procedure reduces the number of weeds, and therefore the labor costs for weeding
Processing and harvesting potatoes with hilled beds is much easier

Video: Method of growing potatoes without hilling and weeding

(Some tricks for growing potatoes) Potatoes are grown by all rural residents and many city dwellers. It is believed that it is easy to grow and everyone knows how to do it.

In practice, potatoes actually grow almost everywhere; they are not as demanding as other types of root crops and caring for them is not very difficult. This is true, but what kind of potatoes will grow, what kind of harvest will be and at what time is often not taken into account, but in vain, your work must be appreciated and, in addition, the profitability of your farm and a very pleasant feeling of satisfaction with the results of your efforts depend on this.

Everyone is used to the fact that the planted the potatoes will sprout on the 21st day, will grow until autumn, harvesting in September. This is traditional, with everyone together and of course there is no sales (mass cleaning is underway), there is no normal price, the income is either meager or zero.

But if you work thoughtfully and diligently, you can have a completely different result. Do you want to grow an excellent harvest, harvest it in June, sell it at a good price and make a profit? I see you want it. Then be patient and read this page to the end.

How to grow early potatoes. The site is selected on a hill, which dries out in the spring earlier than others. The composition is better than loam.

In the spring, add potassium and phosphorus.

Early and mid-early varieties are taken.

Germinate at a temperature of 12-15 degrees in 30-35 days.

You can germinate in the light or in the basement with electric lighting, while the tubers are laid out in 2-3 layers.

Spray with copper sulfate every week, boric acid or potassium permanganate (m. vitriol - 2 g per 10 liters of water, b. acid - 50 g per 10 liters of water, potassium permanganate - 10 g per 10 liters of water).

Tubers with short thick shoots are ready for planting.

If germination has not been carried out, then a week before planting, you can keep the potatoes in a bright room at a temperature of 15 degrees to warm up.

It is better to plant whole tubers - 70-80g (chicken egg), but you can also cut them, leaving 2-3 sprouts on each part. Cut 2-3 days before planting. Disinfect cutting knives (potassium permanganate) or heat them on fire for 10 seconds.

Planting in late April - early May at a soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm equal to 8 degrees Celsius.

If there is a threat of frost, hill up (you can fill up completely, it will break through).

With a height of 10-12 cm, it is necessary to carry out hilling and loosening of row spacing.

A month after planting, feed the sulfate with ammonium (25 g per sq. m.) or urea (12 g. per sq. m.).

At the beginning of budding, the second feeding (potassium 30-50g per 10 liters of water).

Cleaning can begin at the end of June. Complete removal by August 1st.After harvesting, green the potatoes in the light for 10-15 days, which will be used for seeds.

It is strictly forbidden to green food products.If you do everything as written, you will be in grief. Act with God! After planting potatoes, there is no need to worry at first; we all know that potatoes take a long time to sprout, and we just need to wait.

But when there are still no shoots, you involuntarily begin to worry: is everything okay? Our relatives had real case, when the potatoes have not sprouted at all! So, when to expect potato sprouts to appear, why are they not friendly and why have our relatives’ potatoes not sprouted...

The dependence of the emergence of potato seedlings on soil temperature or When to plant potatoes?

The most important factor in the successful emergence of potato seedlings is the soil temperature. If the soil has warmed up at a depth of 10-12 cm to 7..8 degrees (the average daily temperature is usually +8 degrees) - you can start planting potatoes. Of course, not All gardeners check the soil temperature with a thermometer in their hands. You can trust folk signs, or rather, natural conventional signs.

For example, the time of flowering and blooming of perennial plants. When to plant potatoes? According to popular wisdom, we begin planting as soon as the leaves on the birch tree become the size of a penny coin. Signs of soil warming and natural indicators for the start of sowing work - in THIS ARTICLE

When will potato shoots appear?

When the soil warms up to +10 degrees, potato seedlings appear in 23-25 days. At a soil temperature of 18-20 degrees, seedlings appear in 10-20 days. Sprouted potatoes sprout 6-10 days earlier. If planting occurs in early dates- you shouldn’t bury the tubers, they will “sit” for a long time, the upper layers warm up faster, and if planted shallowly, the potatoes will sprout faster. When the soil moisture is more than 75%, planting potatoes is not advisable, in such conditions there is a high probability of tubers being damaged by putrefactive diseases.

SIDERATS at the dacha: how to SOW and COLLECT SEEDS

Why are there uneven shoots?

Reasons for the appearance uneven shoots some:

Various planting depths. The soil warms up unevenly - and those tubers that are closer to the surface sprout earlier, those that lie deeper wait for warmer weather.
Planting tubers of various sizes.
Unevenly sprouted tubers, or not sprouted at all.
A mixture of varieties of different ripening periods, with different dormant periods. You've probably noticed that each variety behaves differently during storage. Much depends on the rest period. Those varieties in which it is short are in no way intended for long-term storage, only for processing (for example, for chips). But there are also well-stored varieties - their dormant period is quite long. If you have a mixture of varieties, it is quite possible that seedlings will appear at different times.

Can potatoes not sprout at all?

Quite, our relatives had such a sad experience. And the whole issue turned out to be improper storage of planting material. The planting potatoes were stored in the cellar, as always, but... they were not poured out of white synthetic bags.

So it stood in them until spring. Everything seemed to be fine, they planted potatoes, but they still didn’t see any shoots. Such negligence cost a lot of money and nerves; at the beginning of summer I had to look for new potatoes and plant them again. But now we all have a lesson - we try not to leave potatoes in white bags even for a short time and always remember this incident. : detailed instructions HERE

Potatoes, proper planting of tubers, care after planting

When to plant potatoes correctly

Tubers are planted when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm will reach 7-8 degrees. Usually in the Moscow region this happens in early May. Delay in planting potatoes entails a 30% loss of yield.

Well sprouted tubers To obtain early potatoes, you can plant them a little earlier - at a soil temperature of 5-6 degrees. Experience shows that such early boarding planting in insufficiently warmed soil produces a greater yield than planting it late in warmed soil.

Potatoes are being planted on a flat surface, and on waterlogged and heavy soils - in ridges. With this planting, the soil warms up better and more air flows to the tubers.

Distance between rows of potatoes when planting

Before boarding In order to evenly place the plants on the area, the area should be marked. To do this, use a marker to make shallow grooves along which the planting is carried out. For the first pass of the marker, pull the cord along which its outermost tooth is guided.

You can plant tubers directly under the cord, but this is less convenient and takes more time. To increase productivity after planting, the soil can be mulch(sprinkle with a 2-3 cm layer of peat).

The optimal distance between rows of potatoes for early-ripening varieties is 70-75 cm, for late-ripening varieties - 80-90 cm. Planting density depends on the size of potato tubers. Small ones are planted after 18-20 cm, medium and large ones after 26-28 cm.

Tubers are planted deep in heavy soils 6-8 cm, on light ones - 8-10 cm, counting the distance from the soil surface to the tuber. With such planting, approximately 350 large tubers, 450 medium ones, 500 and smaller ones will be required per hundred square meters.

Caring for potatoes after planting

Potato care basically comes down to keeping the soil loose and killing weeds.

Harrowing potatoes. The first harrowing is carried out 4-5 days after planting. Then two or three more before germination and one or two after the plants appear on the surface.

Typically, 16-28 days pass from planting to germination. Loosening and hilling potatoes. After the rows are well defined and the plants have sprouted so much that it is impossible to harrow, they begin to loosen the rows.

The first time the soil is loosened deeply - by 12-14 cm, and the second and third shallower - by 6-8 cm. When the plants reach a height of 12-15 cm, the first hilling is carried out, with a ridge height of 15-20 cm. The second time the potatoes are earthed up before by closing the tops.

Feeding potatoes after planting. Before loosening the rows and hilling, it is advisable to feed the plants. This is especially important for mid-season and late potato varieties. It is enough to carry out two feedings.

First time you can add two handfuls of humus under each bush with two teaspoons of ammonium nitrate added to it, or you can add two handfuls of ash mixed with the same amount of earth, or you can add 15 g chicken manure. For the second feeding dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska.

Plants are watered with this solution at the roots, and then watered clean water. Keep in mind that fertilizing is given only during the initial development of plants. After flowering, they lead to late ripening of tubers and the accumulation of nitrates in them.

In case of lack of moisture Potatoes are watered in furrows or by sprinkling. Drought 2-3 weeks after emergence, during the appearance of buds and in early August, when the tubers are growing, can significantly reduce the yield.

After watering, the soil must be loosened so that a crust does not form. Advice. To avoid damaging the potatoes, keep in mind that in hot and dry weather you should not carry out deep loosening around the bushes or hill up the plants.

This leads to dehydration and overheating of the soil, stops the growth of tubers and contributes to the emergence of diseases. During drought, shallow loosening of row spacing is sufficient.

Caring for potatoes after planting

Vegetable growing

Timely and careful care of potatoes after planting (during the entire growing season) is a prerequisite for obtaining large yields. For potato seedlings to emerge, weeds must be intensively controlled, otherwise they will be able to take root and bloom. Main mass weeds, usually annual weeds, before throwing out the rosette to the surface, they sprout thin, large seedlings. Even with shallow tillage, they are easily torn off or pulled out, and the part that remains with the root does not grow and dies.

IN given time harrowing can kill almost all annual weeds and some of the rhizomes that overwinter in the surface layer. In this case, the timing of work to care for potato crops before germination is very important. It is necessary to harrow a potato field immediately after the formation of a soil crust or when only a small part of the weeds have emerged that have not yet taken root and are not colored.

In this state, weeds buried in soil die from exhaustion, and those on the surface dry out very quickly. Harrowing of potatoes before germination begins 5-6 days after planting and, depending on the weediness of the field and precipitation, it is done two, and sometimes three times, interrupted when the potato shoots reach ten centimeters. Loosen (harrow) the soil before germination potatoes and seedlings using a light harrow or a very heavy rake. Protecting young potato seedlings from frost is a necessary procedure when cultivating early potatoes.

It may be that the seedlings are severely damaged by frost, but the crops do not die: the mother potato tubers will sprout new shoots. However, as observations show, the yield on crops damaged by frost is reduced and shifted to a later date. When there is a threat of frost, the seedlings need to be covered earth and make easy hilling of the plants. The next stage of work on the potato field is processing, which can be done with hoes, rippers with teeth or shovels. Manual model cultivators have proven themselves to be excellent. Number inter-row cultivation associated with the nature of the soil and meteorological factors.

As a rule, such treatments are carried out after heavy rainfall and watering and continue until the tops close. A mandatory technique for caring for potatoes is hilling. Using a hiller, they loosen the soil between the rows, lift it and roll it to the base of the stems, on which, after a short time, stolons appear, which end in tubers, and additional roots. In the hilled ridge, the most optimal water-air regime is formed for the formation of the root system of potatoes: the soil here There is little compaction and there is no excess moisture.

In addition, the resistance of stems to lodging increases, and this, in turn, makes the assimilation activity of the middle and lower tier of leaves longer. The ridge protects potato tubers from greening and the accumulation of solanine in them, as well as from temperature changes in the ground layer of air. Hilling up potatoes should be started as early as possible in order to provoke the early emergence of new root systems and potato tubers.

As a rule, hilling of potatoes is carried out during the beginning of budding, timing this work to heavy rainfall or watering. Later hilling (at the beginning of flowering) is accompanied by greater damage to root systems and stolons, which during this period are localized close to the surface. The number of hillings directly depends on the potato variety, soil properties and weather factors (as a rule, in the conditions of the central zone of the Russian Federation one or two ).

The first hilling of potatoes is shallower, the second - to a depth of 15-20 cm. After each hilling, you need to loosen the bottom of the furrows between the ridges.

This saves moisture and increases the potato yield. If, for one reason or another, before planting potatoes and during it, it was not possible to fill the area with fertilizers in sufficient quantities and the plants do not form satisfactorily, the potatoes must be fed (before the first hilling) with those nutrients that are lacking in soil. A potato plant consumes an average of approximately 100 liters of water to produce one kilogram of tuber harvest. But there is no need to limit yourself to this norm, since in addition to the consumption of moisture for transpiration, a significant amount of it also evaporates from the soil surface. In the early stages of formation, potato plants consume a little water, but its lack during this period gives rise to profound changes in metabolism.

Their consequences are revealed later, even with an optimal irrigation regime. The observations carried out show that in potato plants exposed to drought in the initial phases of formation, the time of stolon formation changes and the formation of tubers is greatly delayed. Under satisfactory water supply conditions in early potato varieties, the formation of stolons and the setting of tubers occurs in the first 4-5 weeks after emergence.

A decrease in soil moisture at this time suppresses growth processes and limits the likelihood of obtaining a large potato harvest. Potatoes consume the most significant amount of water during their flowering period. At this time, the tubers in particular are growing very quickly.

But potatoes are most unstable to a lack of water in the soil during the budding period, when stolons, secondary roots appear and tubers begin to grow. Rapid fluctuations in soil moisture lead to an increase in the percentage of small and ugly-looking tubers, and rains and watering in the initial phases of formation promote accelerate their ripening and increase their dry matter content. An increase in humidity at a later date inhibits the ripening of potatoes and reduces the presence of starch in it. Depending on the meteorological conditions of the year, the first growing season watering is timed to coincide with the potato budding stage, subsequent ones - after 10-12 days.

It is best to water the furrows with a small stream. After watering and drying the soil surface, loosening or hilling is done.

Caring for potatoes after planting: watering, loosening, hilling, fertilizing

In previous articles we talked about sprouting potatoes, growing seedlings and planting potatoes in the ground. Today we’ll talk about caring for potatoes after planting, namely: watering, loosening, hilling and fertilizing.

Watering potatoes

It is not recommended to water the potatoes for the first time after planting, since at this time the root system is being formed. With moderate humidity, the roots branch and penetrate deep into the soil, but if the soil is over-moistened, the roots will not be located deep enough, which will subsequently negatively affect the development of the potato bush, since it will be more difficult for it to obtain moisture.

The first watering of potatoes after planting is best done with the emergence of seedlings. Water the potatoes sparingly. When bushes begin to form, the potato's need for water increases.

You should not rely on rain: as soon as you notice that the lower leaves begin to wilt slightly, be sure to water the potatoes. Potatoes experience the greatest need for moisture during the period of budding and flowering. If the amount of moisture at this time is insufficient for the potatoes, this will have a bad effect on their harvest - the potatoes will be very small. It is best to water the potatoes not cold, but lightly. warm water, preheated to " room temperature"in barrels or tubs. The best time to water potatoes is early morning or evening.

Loosening the soil

Surface loosening of the soil, carried out to a depth of 2–3 cm, is a very useful procedure for potatoes, increasing the flow of oxygen to the tubers. In addition, in the process of loosening you destroy small weeds.

The first loosening is carried out a week after planting the potatoes. Subsequently, the soil is loosened as needed after watering and rain, thereby preventing the formation of crust and helping to saturate the soil with oxygen. Loosening must be done very carefully, trying not to damage the sprouts and not pull the tubers to the surface.

Hilling up potatoes

Hilling has a very positive effect on the potato yield and can significantly increase it. Hilling accelerates the processes of bush development, flowering and tuberization.

In addition, hilling protects potato tubers from late blight, preventing infection from spreading from the affected tops to the tubers. Potatoes need to be hilled 2-3 times during the season. The first hilling of potatoes is carried out when the tops reach a height of 13 - 15 cm.

The soil used for hilling must be moist. How is hilling carried out? It’s very simple: the soil is raked in small portions to the tops using a hoe so that a mound is formed around the bush.

The second hilling of potatoes is carried out 10 - 12 days after the first. Third - as needed.

Fertilizing potatoes in the garden

To get a good potato harvest, you need to periodically feed it during the growing process. During the growing season, root feeding of potatoes is carried out three times; the composition of fertilizers depends on the development phase of the potato bush.

In addition, when seedlings appear, potatoes can be sprayed with a solution of macro- and microfertilizers. Root feeding is best done according to wet ground after watering or rain.

First root feeding carried out during the growth of tops if the potato bushes are poorly developed, have thin stems and pale leaves. Feeding composition: 1 tablespoon of urea per 10 liters of water or half a liter of mushy mullein or bird droppings per bucket of water. Dosage: half a liter of solution for each bush.

Second root feeding potatoes are carried out during the budding period to accelerate flowering. Feeding composition: 1 tablespoon potassium sulfate + 3 tablespoons wood ash per 10 liters of water or just 1 glass of wood ash per bucket of water. Dosage: half a liter of solution for each bush. Third root feeding carried out during flowering of potatoes to accelerate the tuberization process. Feeding composition: 2 tablespoons of superphosphate + 1 glass of mushy mullein or chicken droppings per 10 liters of water. Dosage: half a liter of solution for each bush.

Root feeding of potatoes with fertilizer solutions is carried out in cases where we are talking about a relatively small number of bushes. If the area of the potato plot exceeds 100 m2, that is, 1 hundred square meters, fertilizing is carried out with dry fertilizers, scattering them under each bush:

first feeding (to accelerate the growth of tops) - 1/2 teaspoon of urea + 200 g of manure or plant humus per 1 bush; second feeding (during budding) - 1 tablespoon of wood ash + 1/2 teaspoon of potassium sulfate or 1 teaspoon a spoonful of nitrophoska per 1 bush; third feeding (during flowering) - 1 teaspoon of powdered superphosphate per 1 bush.

Relatively unpretentious potatoes are grown everywhere. Unlike most garden crops, the process of development of a potato bush is invisible until seedlings appear. All the rules are followed, the tubers are planted on time, and the seedlings are not in a hurry.

Potato sprouts do not break through quickly; first, the root system of the bush is formed, only after that green shoots begin to break through to the surface of the bed.

After planting, a potato bush begins to form from seedlings or dormant eyes. How soon the seedlings appear depends on many reasons; experienced summer residents will confirm that the timing of the emergence of seedlings is most influenced by 2 factors:

Correct assessment of the weather situation and choice of timing for planting potatoes.
Use of high-quality seed material and additional pre-planting preparation of seed tubers.

Hoping for warm weather and planting potatoes “early and quickly” straight from the cellar - the right way get weak late shoots with “bald spots” and a very dubious return of tubers from the garden in the fall.

How soon do potatoes sprout after planting?

You can wait a very long time for the first shoots in a potato bed or not at all. Region of residence, characteristics of the variety, compliance with the rules of agricultural technology, experience of the summer resident - many factors determine the duration of this time.

Some vegetable growers mistakenly believe that the onset of stable heat after winter is the right time for planting potatoes. However, the sun's rays warm the soil after a certain time:

in the southern regions - from 4 to 5 weeks;
in the northern regions - 2 months or more.

For potato tubers to begin to germinate, the soil temperature must be at least 10°C. From a botanical point of view, a potato tuber is a modified plant stem. In cold soil, the circulation of juices slows down, negative temperatures lead to rot.

Hint: if planting time is running out, and the soil has not yet warmed up to the required 10°C, holes or furrows for tubers should be made 5-6 cm deep. After the emergence of seedlings, the first hilling compensates for shallow planting.

In addition to temperature, air humidity also influences the time it takes for a bed to be ready for planting. After winter, the soil is oversaturated with water - until the excess moisture evaporates or goes deeper, potatoes cannot be planted.

How quickly the water drains depends on the presence of sand or clay in the soil.

Sandy soils dry out faster. Water does not linger - it erodes or goes deeper.
Fertile loams retain moisture well. Such a bed requires additional time: approximately 1 week compared to sandy soils.

A heated bed with well-structured soil is covered with friendly shoots in 20-25 days.

In addition to objective weather factors, the timing of emergence of seedlings is influenced by preliminary preparation tubers. An experienced summer resident will take care of the vernalization of the seed: he will warm up and germinate the tubers in accordance with the growing season of a particular variety.

Early potato varieties “awaken” faster and form sprouts within 15-20 days.
Potato varieties late date maturation have a slightly slower metabolism and form shoots of 1-2 cm 20-25 days after the start of vernalization.

In the process of germinating tubers, you should focus only on the condition of the sprouts; it is undesirable to allow them to grow more than 4-5 cm. During planting, fragile long sprouts break and form roots less well.

The average time for emergence of seedlings after planting is calculated:

southern regions - 10-15 days;
middle latitudes - 2-3 weeks;
northwestern region - 3-4 weeks.

Directly from the cellar or vernalized - any potato germinates within the time period prescribed by nature of 3-4 weeks. During germination, the sprouts feed on the reserves of the mother tuber; due to this method of agricultural technology, the period of emergence of seedlings is shifted.

An important trend has been noted - the warmer the bed, the faster the seedlings appear. Warming the soil to 18°C reduces the duration of seedling emergence by 1 week. Pre-germination of tubers gives approximately the same effect - minus 6-10 days compared to unsprouted potatoes.

If seedlings have not appeared within 4-5 weeks, urgent measures must be taken.

Technology for planting potatoes in open ground and its impact on the timing of emergence

Depending on climatic and soil conditions, potatoes are grown in open ground plots different ways: from traditional, “grandfather’s”, to special ones - for straw, according to Mittleider and others.

The traditional method is “under the shovel”

Planting potatoes with whole or cut tubers to a depth of 10-12 cm in holes has been practiced by summer residents to the point of automaticity: one digs, the other throws. A simple method proven by generations of experience gives excellent results with careful care and favorable weather conditions.

The start of planting work can be hampered by a prolonged spring - cold and damp, when the soil does not have time to warm up and ripen, this delays the time of planting.

If the tubers are set for vernalization, the sprouts overgrow, which leads to a deterioration in germination and productivity of the bed as a whole.

Planting seed tubers without pre-germination(directly from the cellar) delays the emergence of seedlings by up to 4 weeks.

"Dutch" technology

It turned out that the progressive “Dutch” method of planting in ridges had long been used, without knowing it, by residents of the northern regions. The soil raised to the “ridge” warms up well even under the mild northern sun. Wide row spacing and big square the lateral surface of the “ridge” creates favorable conditions for temperature and soil ventilation, which makes it possible to use earlier planting and seedling dates, even by 1-2 weeks.

Compared to a conventional garden bed, the use of “Dutch technology” not only shifts the timing, but also gives a significant increase in the yield due to more complete use natural resources- light, heat, water.

A method for the lazy - under straw

The currently popular method of growing tubers under straw has many advantages, the main ones:

labor costs are kept to a minimum - there is no need to dig, loosen, or hill;
no weeding is needed - weeds do not grow through the mulch layer;
Tubers can be selected as they grow without damaging the roots of the plant.

Spread the tubers on the garden bed and sprinkle with a layer of straw - anyone can do this. For everything to be successful, the following conditions must be met:

warm, moist soil;
vernalized potatoes;
straw or mown grass, layer thickness - at least 10 cm.

Compliance with the first point is mandatory. Tubers may not germinate at all, since a thick layer of mulch serves as a thermal insulator - protecting the soil from heating.

The time for “planting” potatoes under straw is delayed by 1-2 weeks compared to traditional way“under the shovel” plantings. Green potato leaves on a straw bed and a regular bed will appear at the same time. The difference in planting time will not be noticeable, since a favorable microclimate is created under the mulch layer.

Trying new potatoes as soon as possible is the understandable desire of every summer resident. Get early shoots, and therefore early harvest tubers in a small garden bed is quite possible.

The easiest way is to cover the bed with film or agrofibre immediately after planting. You can use any film - black or transparent. A greenhouse effect is created under the film, the bed quickly heats up, and the shelter does not allow the soil to cool down overnight. How long it takes for seedlings to appear depends on the following factors: within 1 week (vernalized tubers) or 2 weeks (without germination).

For this purpose, it is convenient to plant a separate double row, and above it install a simple shelter on arches. In greenhouse conditions, potatoes can grow until summer weather sets in.

Uneven shoots - what is the reason?

“Bald spots” in a potato bed can most often be observed after planting non-vernalized tubers. Potatoes purchased at the market from an “unidentified person”, donated by “good neighbors”, or brought from a chain store may not sprout for various reasons:

illness;
eyes damaged by frost due to improper storage;
To preserve the goods, the trading network treats vegetables with special reagents that inhibit the germination process;
seed material is collected according to the principle “from one source to another” - tubers of different varieties, unequal in size;
planting was carried out at different depths.

The conclusions are obvious - seed tubers should be purchased only from a trusted seller, stored in proper conditions and agricultural practices should be followed.

Potatoes did not rise - error analysis

Mistakes made during landing can lead to problems.

Poor quality planting material

If there is no confidence in the quality of the seed tubers, planting should be carried out only after germination. If the eyes do not “wake up” within 1 week of vernalization, there is a high probability that it is useless to expect sprouts. It is urgent to look for a replacement: healthy tubers without damage from frost or disease.

Boarding too early

Sprouted potatoes are difficult to tolerate low temperatures. Sprouts rot under the influence of frost, attracting underground living creatures - mole crickets, May beetle larvae and others.

After hibernation, insects are unusually voracious and can destroy the entire plantation even before germination.

Planting in cold soil inhibits the movement of juices and the development of sprouts. Temperatures up to 10°C are not conducive to the development of potato bushes, but are quite favorable for colonies of fungi, viruses and microorganisms. A tuber affected by disease stops growing or grows weak.

In any case, even when the reason for the “non-germination” is beyond doubt, you should dig up the nest and make sure your guesses are correct or incorrect in order to draw conclusions for the future.

100% potato germination is real

Experienced summer residents know how to achieve maximum germination of planted tubers and thus increase the productivity of the potato bed.

Compliance with the rules of crop rotation reduces the risk of potato diseases at the stage of bush formation.
Preparing the bed in the fall guarantees structured, nutritious soil by the time the tubers are planted.
Seed material must be germinated.
During vernalization, it is useful to treat tubers with a solution of complex fertilizers by spraying.
On the eve of planting, it is advisable to treat the tubers with a growth stimulator. This speeds up metabolism and increases productivity.
A cut tuber sprouts much faster. The amount of seed increases. A cut tuber produces a stress hormone, which triggers the mechanism of root formation and regeneration.

With minimal financial investment and time, these recommendations will help you achieve 100% germination of potatoes in the garden.

Conclusion

A relatively unpretentious crop in the bush phase, potatoes are very sensitive to external conditions at the beginning, when a new plant is formed from the awakened eye. The problem of germination of planted tubers will not bother you if you follow all the rules for preparing seed material, pre-planting preparation and observe the planting deadlines. Small tricks will help reduce the waiting period for seedlings by a few more days.

The first experiences of gardeners begin after the planted root crops do not sprout in a timely manner. This is especially true for situations where the potatoes do not sprout at all after three weeks.

Potatoes are usually planted in May, germination occurs throughout the summer, and harvesting is planned for early autumn, when the stems turn yellow and dry out.

What does potato seedling depend on?

From temperature

The best option for planting potatoes in open ground is to warm the ground to 10 degrees Celsius. In this case, the appearance of night frosts should no longer occur. If these requirements are met, you can expect the first shoots to appear within 25 days. It is worth noting that if after planting root crops the air temperature warms up to 20 degrees, then the growth of potato sprouts accelerates significantly, appearing on the soil surface within two weeks.

An important point concerns the use of sprouted potatoes, which should produce the first shoots within 7 days. Insufficient heating of the soil significantly delays the process of formation and development of sprouts. In addition, the onset of a sharp cold snap may cause potatoes to grow unevenly or not appear at all. If the degree of heating of the earth is insufficient, it is recommended to plant root crops shallowly (top layer of soil) so that they do not stop in their development.

From variety

The germination period of potatoes also depends on the characteristics of the selected variety. On average, sprouts should appear within a month after planting. But at the same time, there are varieties of root vegetables that are ready for consumption after 40 days after the potatoes are in the ground. We are talking about early-ripening and ultra-early ripening types of potatoes.

To get a large harvest, it is recommended to choose large root crops for planting that form branched stems good protection soil from drying out. Regardless of the variety chosen, the root vegetables should be clean, healthy, firm and without cracked areas on the skin.

When shoots appear

Further actions when the first potato shoots appear depend on the characteristics of the variety itself. If in some cases hilling of bushes is carried out only when the stems reach a height of 10 - 15 cm, then in other cases it is recommended to immediately work with the sprouts being completely covered with a layer of soil.

Caring for potatoes after germination

A mandatory requirement for obtaining a good potato harvest is careful and timely care of the emerging sprouts. First of all, this concerns the harrowing of the site and its hilling.

Harrowing

If gardeners can handle a small area of planted potatoes with a rake, then a garden larger than 2–3 acres is better treated by harrowing. We are talking about using a tooth, mesh or rotary harrow, which is attached to a walk-behind tractor or tractor and loosens the soil.

It is harrowing that contributes to:

fast and effective destruction weeds due to the fact that the teeth of the harrow pull out their unstabilized roots (at the same time, the dried weed serves as a good fertilizer for the soil in the future);
sufficient supply of planted root crops with oxygen;
saturation with moisture, which is often lacking in spring.

Hilling

Hilling up potatoes is also a mandatory step in caring for sprouting potato stems. The process itself involves loosening the soil between the rows, which then rises and falls to the root part of the stems. This is necessary primarily for the development of stolons and the appearance of new root crops, sufficiently saturated with air and moisture.

Classic hilling

In the process of classical processing of potato rows, soil is raked from the rows. As a result, the sprouted tops mostly end up under a layer of soil.

Fan hilling

Unlike the classical type of cultivation, in this case the soil ends up in the middle of the bushes, and the stems themselves are carefully moved apart to the sides. This increases the amount of light available to each of them and reduces competition for nutrients consumed. As practice shows, due to careful fan hilling, many gardeners manage to increase harvested almost doubled.

Watering

Supplying potato tubers with moisture must be carried out taking into account existing weather conditions, as well as the stage of growth and development of the potato itself. As a rule, sufficient moisture is extremely important during the growth of stems, as well as at the time of flowering. The plant itself is quite tolerant of long-term droughts, but the desire to get a large harvest is the reason for periodic watering without the formation of swampy soil, since oxygen does not pass through stagnant water.

Feeding

It is recommended to carry out the first feeding of root crops a month after planting in open ground. It is at this time that shoots should begin to appear. Water solutions with the addition of a mixture of superphosphate, urea and sulfate (potassium chloride) can be used as fertilizer. You should not refuse the opportunity to use bird droppings. The second stage of fertilization should be carried out when the first buds appear, and the third - after they have faded.

When choosing suitable preparations for fertilizing, it is worth considering the condition of the tops: if the stems grow quickly and lushly, then there is enough nitrogen in the soil and the use of urea and ammonium nitrate will be unnecessary.

Fight against late blight

Late blight is usually called a plant disease of fungal origin, which is characterized by spoilage of fruits and a fairly rapid spread throughout the entire area. A clear indication of plant damage by late blight is the transformation of potato tubers into a putrefactive mass. In this case, a coating of fruiting mycelium may appear on the leaves themselves.

The best way to prevent the disease is its prevention, when root crops are processed before planting. When the first signs appear, it is recommended to thoroughly spray the plants with a solution of copper sulfate or trichopolum. Treatment with iodine or garlic tincture will also not be superfluous. Diseased bushes must be completely removed from the area, while the rest can be treated in a timely manner.

Why are there uneven shoots?

The list of reasons for the uneven emergence of seedlings on the soil surface includes:

planting seeds at different depths, especially if the soil is not yet warm enough;
the potatoes themselves varied in size;
planting was carried out with uneven germination of root crops;
using different varieties of potatoes.

Can potatoes not sprout at all?

Quite rare, but still there are cases among gardeners when planted potatoes do not sprout at all. This may be due to:

Why don't potatoes sprout?

Weather

A significant delay in the appearance and development of the first shoots can be a sharp drop in air temperature. In addition, planting potatoes in unheated soil can delay the germination process until the soil warms up to at least 10 degrees Celsius, and the temperature itself does not decrease throughout the week.

Second important point concerns excessive precipitation, due to which the tubers lack oxygen and begin to rot.

Diseases and pests

Various insects in the soil, as well as painful lesions of the soil itself, can also serve as a serious obstacle to the germination of potatoes. First of all, this concerns rhizoctorosis (black leg) and late blight, which fall into the ground with previously infected seeds and spread throughout the entire area along with rain moisture and dew. Annual planting of potatoes in the same place provokes the appearance of many fungi and bacteria that spoil the seeds and emerging shoots even before they appear above the soil surface. To successfully combat such problems, it is recommended to use fungicides.

Of the harmful insects, it is worth highlighting the mole cricket, as well as the larvae of the cockchafer and wireworm. They can be repelled by placing onion peels in the soil along with the seeds.

Improper storage of seed

First of all, this concerns the failure to maintain the required air temperature, since the potatoes may simply freeze or begin sprouting earlier. The second important point concerns storing potatoes in synthetic bags that do not allow air to pass through and accumulate moisture inside, which causes rotting of the tubers themselves.

Violation of landing rules

The most common reason that potatoes do not sprout when expected is that they are planted too deep in the soil. The second point concerns the lack of advance treatment of the land with fertilizer and loosening before planting, as well as non-compliance with the rules for harrowing the site, aimed at supplying the tubers with the necessary oxygen and moisture.