IN this material will be considered most important points, which you should pay attention to when installing interior doors. How to install an interior door yourself, which interior doors to install - this is a question that novice builders ask.
It should be noted that with a strong desire, minimal skills and a set of simple tools, this is quite possible. Which interior doors to install is an individual matter, which depends on taste and financial capabilities.
Before installing interior doors with your own hands, you need the following tools:
- impact drill and drill bits for concrete;
- chisel;
- hammer;
- hacksaw;
- building level;
- nail puller;
- axe;
- construction miter box;
- tape measure and pencil;
- goniometer
Removing the old door
Before installing interior doors, you need to dismantle old door(cm. ). To do this you need to use a nail puller. We lift the door and remove it from its hinges.
It is advisable to do this work together, as it is safer and easier. To remove old trim, you can use a nail puller or an ax. Thus we dismantle the old box.
Size matters
Before you install the interior door yourself, you need to decide on the width of the doorway. The standard width of the door leaf is 600, 700, 800 and 900 mm.
You need to think carefully before you want to reduce it. After all, furniture will still have to be brought in or taken out through it.
If narrowing the doorway is necessary, then you need to prepare in advance wooden beam. The width of the beam should be equal to the width of the box. You need to insert it between the frame and the wall, securing it with dowels.
Installation steps
Box measurement
You need to start inserting an interior door by measuring the door frame.
- First we attach the top cross member to the top of the door. We measure the distance that needs to be sawed off.
- Next, we do the same with two longitudinal crossbars. We fasten them together with self-tapping screws.
- Two self-tapping screws at each mounting point will be sufficient.. In this process, the main thing to remember is that there must be a gap of 4-5 mm between the frame and the doors, so that the door can freely fit into the frame and there will be no rubbing.
Important. The distance between the floor and the door should be within 10-15 mm, and between the frame and the doors - 4-5 mm.
The next step in installing interior doors will be inserting the hinges. It's easier to do this when the box is already assembled.
So:
- First of all, we cut the loops into door leaf . To do this, you need to measure 200 mm from the top and bottom of the door.
- We apply the hinge to the door and draw an outline.
- Further along the contour, using a chisel and hammer, we make a notch depth equal to the thickness of the loops.
- Attaching the doors to the frame and we already outline the outline on the box with further cutting out the recess.
- We attach the hinges (see) to the doors and frame using self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in them. This is done to prevent the fabric from splitting.
- If we install interior doors, then you should remember that there are left-handed and right-handed loops.
Important. You need to understand which side of the door and frame to install the hinges on so that the interior door opens in the direction you want. Screw feet need to be lubricated machine oil or special graphite lubricant.
Installation of interior door frames
The next step on how to install an interior door is to install and strengthen the frame in the doorway.
So:
- To do this, place the box in the opening and carefully align and center it. This is a very important and responsible moment.
- We secure the box with wedges at the top and bottom. Using a drill, we make three holes in each post of the box. As a result, there will be six marks left on the wall along which we will make holes for attaching the box.
- We take out the wedges and remove the box.
- Using a hammer drill with a concrete drill, follow the marks on the wall and make six holes for the dowels. Next, insert the dowels into the holes.
- We install the box and again center and level it using a level.
- We secure the box with long self-tapping screws, which in turn are closed with special caps to match the color of the door.
Every owner wants to save money on building a house or renovating an apartment. Therefore, more and more often, homeowners are trying to carry out many repair and construction work themselves. Installing interior doors yourself will help you save a lot.
There is nothing difficult in these works even for a novice master. You just need to study carefully step by step instructions and watch the video.
How to install interior doors from natural wood or MDF? These doors are in great demand thanks to good quality at an acceptable cost.
Exists a certain order performing actions:
- Unpack the purchased door set and door frames. Everything must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure.
- Assemble the door frame. The kit for this purpose contains 3 components and 1 tie bar, which will be used for short-term fixation.
It is more convenient to do the assembly on a flat floor, laying a soft substrate. The gable panels have inserts (plastic inserts). They are hammered into special grooves. They need to be knocked out carefully so as not to damage the loot. Use wood blocks for this, since you cannot hit fragile plastic inserts with a hammer.
- Fasten all parts of the door fixed base according to the “groove-to-groove” pattern, giving it a U-shape. Strict geometry must be observed; inaccuracies during assembly must not be allowed. Secure the frame with the inserts previously knocked out of the grooves, driving them into the formed holes. Use a hammer, but carefully.
If the parts of the box have shifted when hammering in the inserts, then you need to correctly align the body with a hammer, placing a wooden plank.
Consider the direction of opening the doors. It all depends on the layout.
Advice! In the bathroom, pantry and toilet, it is better to have doors that open outwards, since an inward opening door will reduce the already small space. Doors to large rooms (living room, bedroom, office), on the contrary, should be made to open inward, otherwise the door leaf will interfere with the passages and hallway.
- In the future, you will need some tools for work:
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- miter saw and chisel;
- milling head;
- building level;
- dowels, tape measure and mounting foam.
Having assembled the top of the box, you need to move to the lower zone. A clamping board from a purchased set will come in handy to fix the width of the door frame at the bottom. Screw it in with screws in those areas that will later be embedded in the wall. Screw in the screws at an angle, starting work not from the very edge, otherwise you can easily split the plank.
- Adjust the loot to size doorway. Typically, the length of factory doors is 5–6 cm longer than standard openings. After measuring the opening, cut the bottom of the box with a miter saw.
When determining the size of the doorway, you need to take into account the height of the threshold (if there is one) or its absence (when an interior door without a threshold is provided).
- For fitting, insert the door leaf into the assembled box lying on the floor without removing the cellophane from it. It is enough just to cut it off in the area of the handles and the lock.
- Mount the finished box, adjusted in all respects, into the opening and, using a building level, install it perfectly level. Screw the frame to the opening using wood screws, screwing them in at an angle in those areas that will then be covered with foam and door trim.
If doorway not made of wood or plasterboard sheets, where available wooden blocks, then for fastening you will have to use dowels or similar fastening materials.
You cannot fasten the door frame through the front side, so as not to damage it appearance and not make it difficult to operate (opening/closing) the door over time.
Foam the cracks between the opening and the frame later, using dry finishing mixtures, and make a slope in this place.
- While the foam hardens, you can begin installing hinges and handles on the moving part of the door, as well as inserting a lock. Mark the place for the castle on the pediment and draw an outline according to its shape. Use a router saw to carefully remove the top layer of wood until the face of the lock is level with the door leaf.
For the inside of the lock, use a drill with a suitable drill bit to make a deeper recess.
Secure the lock with the fasteners included in the kit, harmonious in color and style with the locks, hinges, door, plugs and door handles. To do this, insert the lock core into the drilled socket, put handles on it on both sides and clamp everything with fasteners.
The time has come to install the hinges, the pins of which should point upward; then the fabric is put on them. Work like a lock. Make sure that the loops are flush with the fabric.
- Return to the hatch, mark and hang the hinges, determine the location of the lock entry, make a hole with a chisel and secure the plug.
- Hang the door leaf.
Wherever solid wood was drilled, cut and sawed, it is necessary to cover its bare areas with paint in a common tone or varnish. This will not only improve the appearance, but will also preserve the wood surface.
If desired, you can easily install the interior door yourself.
Factory door sets are made to suit the typical wall thickness of city apartments, about 7–8 cm. This is why homeowners with thicker walls have to adapt to industrial sizes
With a wall thickness of 25 cm and above, the opening areas not covered door jamb, sealed with plaster, plastic or plasterboard slopes. Up to 25 cm, you can install interior doors with extensions, which is much faster and easier.
Dobor (additional boards) is a box expander, which, together with the platband, plays an aesthetic role, hiding uneven surfaces, making the door much stronger and preventing it from warping.
It is made from tongue and groove edged boards for thick walls or from aircraft plywood (subsequently decorated self-adhesive film) for very thick walls. Extras collected from 3 components, the shape copies the letter P and is attached (you can use PVA glue):
- to the door frame;
- to the wall in the opening area;
- on vertical beam between the door and the opening.
Benefits of extras:
- speed of assembly and installation of the door block;
- absence of “wet” finishing works, which are undesirable for wood;
- Extending the service life of doors.
Briefly about loops. Factory-made products are often sold with hinges already attached. Then the issue of installing hinges is not key. But sometimes you have to install them yourself. This is where many people think about whether to use classic or butterfly loops.
The butterfly loop is one of the non-mortise elements, i.e. When using it, there is no need to cut grooves. That's a plus.
Attention! But this design does not make it possible to quickly remove the doors if necessary. You will have to unscrew the hinges, and this is inconvenient during repair work or when bringing in or removing furniture.
Butterflies are easy to install, but when choosing this type of hinge you need to know: even a minimal deviation due to a possible defect in the door leaf or the hinge itself will lead to the doors not closing tightly. That’s why you need to be extremely careful when working with butterflies.
It is up to the owner to decide which hinges to install. Butterflies are more suitable for light doors, but for massive ones heavy doors better to choose classic version, since it provides a stronger connection, thanks to which classic hinges are able to support more weight.
Installation of sliding interior doors
Recently, not ordinary hinged interior doors have been in great demand, but sliding ones (slider), which slide along rails or ride to the side (into an opening, pencil case, wall) on rollers.
There are two types:
- sliding accordion door, consisting of small plastic or wooden slats, which, easily sliding, significantly save space;
- a door built into a pencil case or wall, using wardrobe technology.
On a note! Inexpensive accordion doors are not practical. TO sliding doors Any modification is usually accompanied by step-by-step instructions from the manufacturer for their assembly.
Advantages of sliding doors:
- custom design:
- more space in the room for furniture;
- safety;
- do not open spontaneously in drafts.
The disadvantages include:
- poor noise and sound insulation, as well as the penetration of odors, but this can be easily eliminated by installing a felt pad on the gable;
- difficulty in repairing it and in caring for the surface where the door slides;
- high installation costs, but if the installation of sliding interior doors is done by hand, then the costs are practically no higher than when setting up swing doors.
Double-leaf interior doors
IN large apartments or houses where there is a lot of space, owners often prefer double doors between rooms (hinged or sliding). Installation double doors any version is also simple, but has its own specifics.
Install the bolt (latch) before inserting the hinges. On each leaf, cut the hinges into the door itself and into the side post. Remove the previously made fragment.
- Hang the first door on its hinges, leveling it, as when installing a single-leaf swing door. After that, carefully hang the second one, adjusting it in accordance with the first one, mark a place for the second beam and secure it with self-tapping screws.
- After making sure that both sashes are level relative to each other, foam the seams. When the foam hardens, it increases in volume many times over, so it is better to use foam with a low expansion coefficient.
- Before inserting the handles, secure the counterplate of the crossbar in the door frame.
- Nail the cover (profile strip in relief), having initially coated it with hot-melt adhesive for greater strength, and install the platbands.
Installing interior doors with your own hands is not difficult. It is important to carry out all stages of installation sequentially.
An interior door serves to divide the space in a room and also provides sound insulation in a private house or apartment. In addition, the door leaf is important detail interior, therefore it must correspond to the design style. Because installation work are quite expensive, the question arises of how to properly install interior doors with your own hands. The answer is in the detailed step-by-step instructions outlined on this page.
Dimensions and equipment
Depending on the opening method, doors can be folding, sliding or swinging. The latter are the most popular because they are structurally simplest and fairly easy to install. They are presented in a large number of modifications. According to the opening method, the following are distinguished:
- double-leaf and single-leaf;
- left- and right-sided.
Step 3: Installing the box and hanging the canvas
The box must be installed in a pre-prepared opening. The hinged post must be leveled first using a plumb line or level. It is imperative to check it from all sides. Then the top crossbar and the stand must be spread apart with wedges. The stand will only be exposed when it is in a vertical position.
Next, wedge the second rack. Be sure to check the horizontal part of the box.
The old way– the side posts must be drilled through. To do this, holes for dowels are initially made in the wall. The box must be attached to the wall with self-tapping screws no less than 150 mm long.
Old method of fastening In order to fix the box in the opening in a hidden way, can be used metal plates, which are usually used to install plasterboard structures. Most often, such plates are used together with anchors. In this case, it is worth choosing the number of fasteners in accordance with the expected load.
This is what the mount looks like The use of such plates is in a non-standard way and is possible only in the absence finishing. It is recommended to groove a section of the wall in order to subsequently putty the fasteners.
All that remains is to hang the door on the frame. After this, you need to make final adjustments to the box. The lock post must then be adjusted to fit the door so that it does not protrude beyond the wall. It is worth remembering that in order to maintain the integrity of the box and the canvas, you must first drill several holes for the screws.
Step 4: Foaming
After securing the canvas, you need to foam the gaps between the box and the edges of the opening. The foam should be fed carefully, layer by layer, and fed from above so that it does not protrude out. Then the door will have to be closed and not touched for a certain time so that the foam dries. Approximate drying time is 1 day.
If the composition accidentally gets on the canvas, immediately remove it with a clean, dry cloth; dried fragments can be cleaned using effective cleaning agents.
Step 5: Installing the lock and handles in the door leaf
The most popular today are handles with a built-in lock. The work order is as follows:
- Make a mark one meter from the floor. The handle mechanism must be applied so that a mark is visible in the hole at the top.
- Drill holes in the canvas from the end. After this, the edges of the holes should be cut off with a chisel to level the hole.
- Insert the mechanism into the hole. In this case, the lock must be leveled and then secured using self-tapping screws. The bar on the lock should be traced with a pencil to cut through the veneer, then the mechanism should be removed. According to the outlined contour, you need to select a platform to determine the thickness of the locking plate. This is done by using a chisel.
- Drill holes for the latch and handles. You need to attach the lock to the canvas with different sides, align it and mark it. Holes must be made on both sides and they must not be through.
- Remove the resulting shavings and install the handles.
Step 6: Installing trim strips
An extension is a plank approximately 2 meters long, 250 mm wide, and no more than 3 cm thick. The plank should be used during the installation of interior doors if the wall is thicker than door frame.
The timber for the box is made in standard width– approximately 70 mm. It can be expanded according to the thickness of the opening with an extension. This will allow you to more clearly align the box and walls. The beam has a groove for the plank. You must first measure the distance to the edge of the wall, starting from the depth of the groove.
The allowance can be set in different ways:
- into the groove provided in the box;
- with cutting a groove in the absence of a ready-made one;
- attaching the extension from the inside of the beam in the absence of a groove, the box is installed together with the extension;
- fastening the extension in the shape of a “P”;
- if the extension is not too wide and there is no groove in the box, the bar should be drilled and screwed to the box.
The plank is sawn into several parts using a circular saw to obtain several pieces of the required dimensions. You need to prepare one short plank and two vertical ones. Check out our simple step-by-step instructions for .
Step 7: Fastening the trim
During installation of the platbands, the box must be located level with the opening on the front side. To connect the platbands, you must first attach a vertical strip to the box and place a mark 0.5 cm higher, retreating from the crossbar of the box. This mark will act as a cutting edge. In the same way you need to mark the cut on the other side.
Sooner or later you have to change your interior doors. The procedure is not so complicated that it is necessary to hire a specialist. If you have at least some skills in handling a saw, a level and a plumb line, you can tighten a few self-tapping screws - you can do it yourself. When replacing, before installing the interior door, the old one must be dismantled. And here too there are peculiarities. About all the subtleties - in photos and videos with detailed instructions.
Interior doors are made from different materials. Moreover, the material of both the door leaf and frame is different. The door leaf is:
- From fiberboard. These are the cheapest doors. Represent wooden frame, to which the laminated fiberboard is attached. They have low sound insulation, they are afraid high humidity, are easily damaged.
- From MDF. They cost much more, but also quality characteristics much higher. They have better sound insulation, are not afraid of moisture, are stronger and more durable.
- Wood. The most expensive doors. They are made from different types of wood - from pine to oak or more exotic species.
Door frames are also made from the same materials. The worst choice is that fiberboard boxes bend even under their own weight, and hanging the door leaf on them is a real pain. So try to take either MDF or wood. There is another material: laminated wood. It is good because it does not need to be processed or painted, but the service life depends on the quality of the film.
Dimensions and equipment
Interior doors are produced standard sizes, it’s just a pity that the standards are different countries are different. For example, in our country swing doors made with a width of 600 - 900 mm in increments of 100 mm. In some EU countries the rules are the same - in Germany, Italy and Spain. In France, others are standard. Here are the most narrow doors 690 mm and further in increments of 100 mm.
Is the difference really that important? If you want to change only the door leaf without the frame, then it is important - you will have to choose from your segment or completely change it along with the frame. There is a much greater choice of interior doors of the same standard as in our country, while in France there is much less choice.
What width of doors you need depends on where you are going to place them. If we talk about standards, the following values are recommended:
- V living room width from 60 to 120 cm, height 2 m;
- bathroom - width from 60 cm, height 1.9-2 m;
- in the kitchen, the width of the door leaf is at least 70 cm, height 2 m.
If, when replacing a door, it is decided to make the opening larger/smaller, permission is not required for this, but it is necessary to remain within the limits specified for each room.
How to determine what width of doors to buy? Measure the door leaf you have and you will know what you need. If there are no doors, find the narrowest place in the opening, measuring it, you can find out how wide you need door block. This is a door leaf + door frame. So the outer dimensions of the door frame should be less than the measured value. For example, you got 780 mm, look for a block with parameters of 700 mm. Wider ones cannot be inserted into this opening.
The most full set interior door - with frame, extensions and trims
When choosing a door, pay attention to the equipment. There are three types of assembly:
- Door leaf. You buy the box separately.
- Doors with frame. Everything is included, but the box is in the form of separate boards. You will have to file the corners and connect, hang the hinges yourself.
- Door block. These are ready-to-install doors - the frame is assembled, the hinges are hung. Just cut the sidewalls to the height, align them evenly and secure them.
Even though the quality of the door leaf is the same, the prices for these kits differ significantly. But the difference in the time you spend on installation is significant.
Step-by-step installation of interior doors
In general, there are many subtleties. We will try to describe and illustrate the most common moments in photo or video material.
Step 1: Assembling the Door Frame
If you did not buy an assembled door block, the first thing you will have to do is assemble the door frame. It consists of two long posts located on the sides, and one shorter crossbar at the top - the lintel.
Connection methods
There are at least two options for how to connect these planks to each other:
Regardless of exactly how you plan to connect the elements of the door frame, the first step is to cut down the pillars and lintels on one side. Then they are placed in a box on the floor, checking the correct connection. Next, you need to decide on the height of the side parts of the door frame.
Determining the dimensions
When folded, the required length is measured along the inside of the rack. The racks are not always made the same: the floor is often uneven and this must be taken into account. To do this, take a level and check how level the floor is. If it is perfectly level, the posts will be the same. If there is a deviation, it must be taken into account: make one of the racks longer. Usually this is a few millimeters, but this is also enough for the doors to warp.
When calculating the height, keep in mind that the racks should be 1-2 cm longer than the door leaf (including cuts). Make a 1 cm gap under the door if you are not planning to put a rug under it. If there is a rug/carpet/carpet, it is better to make it larger. Don't be afraid to leave gaps. They are necessary for. Please note once again: the height is measured along the inside of the door frame - from the bottom edge to the cut. Having cut it off, try on the racks in the doorway.
Now you need to saw off the lintel to length and, if necessary, saw on the other side (if the joint is at 45°). The length of the lintel should be such that when folded, the distance between the posts is greater than the width of the door leaf. The minimum gap is 7 mm, but more is often done. 7-8 mm are distributed as follows: 2 mm for hinges, and 2.5-3 mm for expansion gaps. Any interior doors - MDF, fiberboard, wood - change their dimensions depending on humidity. To accommodate these changes, clearances are required. And 5-6 mm is not always enough, especially during wet areas. For the bathroom, definitely leave a little more, otherwise in high humidity they may have difficulty opening.
So, we have decided on the minimum gaps when installing interior doors:
- for hinges - 5-6 mm;
- at the top, bottom and sides - 3 mm;
- bottom - 1-2 cm.
After you have cut all the pieces and made the cuts, fold the box on the floor. If you notice any shortcomings in the connection somewhere, correct them using sandpaper, fixed on a block. The more accurate the match, the smaller the gap.
Assembly
Regardless of the material of the box and the connection method, holes are pre-drilled for the fasteners so that the material does not tear. The diameter of the drill is 1 mm less than the diameter of the screw.
The box is folded and the angles are set to 90°. Holding the stand and lintel in this position, drill holes with a drill. If there is an assistant, he can hold it. If you are working alone, temporarily secure the correctly aligned box with two cross bars - closer to the top and one at the bottom. This will help you avoid mistakes and make the correct connection.
If connected at an angle of 45°, make three holes on each side. Two on top - a centimeter away from the edge, and one on the side - in the center. In total, three screws are required for each connection. The direction of installation of self-tapping screws is perpendicular to the connection line.
If you connected at 90°, everything is simpler. Drill two holes from above, pointing the drill straight down.
Step 2: Inserting the hinges
Most often, 2 hinges are installed on interior doors, but 3 are possible. They are placed 200-250 mm away from the edge of the door leaf. If the frame and door leaf are made of wood, choose a place so that there are no knots. First, attach the hinges to the door leaf. The operating procedure is as follows:
- We apply loops to the selected places and outline the contours. The easiest way to do this is with a finely sharpened pencil, but experts advise using a knife blade. This makes it more accurate and leaves smaller gaps.
- If they have it, if not, take a chisel and select a material for the thickness of the loop. There is no need to make any more sampling, just for the thickness of the metal.
- A loop is installed in the prepared recess. Its plane should be flush with the surface of the canvas.
- The exposed loop is fixed with self-tapping screws.
Having secured two hinges, lay the door leaf in assembled box, set the correct gaps: on the hinge side - 5-6 mm, 3 mm on the opposite side and on top. Having set these gaps, the canvas is fixed using wedges. Positioned exactly horizontally and vertical plane(you can use pads if necessary).
After setting, mark the locations of the mating parts of the loops. Sometimes it is more convenient to remove an already installed hinge and then install it in place. A notch is also made according to the markings. Depth - so that the surface of the hinge is flush with the surface of the door frame.
DIY door hanging is described in detail in the video.
Step 3: Installing the Door Frame
The assembled box must be correctly inserted into the opening. This is a very responsible task. Before installing an interior door, knock down everything in the opening that could fall off. If the wall is too loose, the surface is treated with primers deep penetration with an astringent effect. If there are too large holes, they are sealed with plaster; very large protrusions are trimmed off. It is easier to insert an interior door into the prepared opening. If this is your first time doing this on your own, make it easier on yourself.
The box is displayed without the door leaf. It is oriented strictly vertically. Verticality is checked not only by level, but also by plumb line. The level often gives an error, so it is more reliable to check with a plumb line.
To prevent the box from becoming warped during installation, install temporary spacers on the floor and bevels in the corners which give a high degree of rigidity. In order for the doors to open, they are inserted in the same plane with the wall. This is the only way it will open completely. If the wall is uneven, place the box not along the wall, but vertically. Otherwise there will be problems with opening or closing the door.
How to insert an interior door with your own hands - in the same plane as the wall
Once the position is selected, you can secure it. This is done using mounting wedges - triangular wooden or plastic bars. First, wedges are placed on both sides of the lintel - crossbars, then above the racks. In this way, the position of the box relative to the doorway is selected and fixed. Next, the verticality of the racks is checked again. They are checked in two planes so that they are not tilted forward or backward.
Then install the wedges at the bottom, then after about 50-60 cm, checking that the racks are exactly level. Wedge additionally and cross bar- in the middle. Check whether the elements of the box are bent somewhere, and correct if necessary. You can start fastening.
Step 4: Attaching the Box to the Doorway
There are also two mounting methods: through directly to the wall and with mounting plates. If the wall allows and you are not afraid of the fastener caps in the box, you can attach it all the way through. It's reliable.
To install interior doors, it is enough to screw two self-tapping screws into the cutouts for the hinges and, on the other hand, under the plate of the lock mate. Additional holes are drilled in the cutouts. They are made so as not to fall into the holes for fastening the hinges or mating part. Make sure that the head of the screws is recessed and does not interfere with the installation of the hinges and lining.
Installation of interior doors according to this scheme is shown in the video. There are also several interesting nuances regarding the placement of the door frame.
If such a quantity of fasteners seems unreliable, drill through and cover the holes with decorative washers matched to match. Or there is also a special molding made of MDF with removable slats. The fastener is installed in the prepared groove and then closed with a strip.
The second method is secret, the fasteners are not visible. First, the mounting plates are attached to the back of the box. In principle, it can be used for plasterboard, but there are also special ones that are thicker, although when installing interior doors, plasterboard ones will suffice.
Step 5: Foaming
After all the gaps are set and the wedges are installed, the gaps between the frame and the wall are filled polyurethane foam. For better polymerization, the wall is moistened with water from a spray bottle. Then squeeze out the foam, filling no more than 2/3. Too much foam may cause the box to blow inward. So don't overdo it.
To ensure that the doors are not warped by the foam, spacers are installed. But if you don't overdo it with foam, nothing should happen.
Spacers for fixing the frame - when installing the interior door this way, the frame should stand level
After the foam has polymerized ( exact time indicated on the cylinder), remove the spacers, hang the door leaf and check the operation of the door. Next come Finishing work: and platbands, if necessary - additions.
You know how to install an interior door with your own hands. There is nothing overly complicated, but we tried to describe the main nuances. There is a lot of useful information in the video - these are recommendations from practitioners.
If you have a need installation of interior doors, then don’t rush to call an expensive specialist, because if you wish, this can be done with your own hands. Knowing little about the construction business, you can use our advice and install the interior yourself door .
Read also:
We install interior doors with our own hands
The process of installing interior doors is quite complicated, so a positive result depends on strict implementation every action.
If you decide to do this kind of work on one's own, then be patient. You should very carefully study all the instructions and tips for installing interior doors with your own hands, and then perform all actions scrupulously.
By following all the rules given below, you and your loved ones will be happy with brand new interior doors.
We install the interior door ourselves. Preparation
First you need level the walls cover them with putty and plaster. After which the wall in which the door will stand should be well dried otherwise there is a risk of the door frame moving.
The floor must also be prepared for laying. When installing an interior door consider the final height of the future flooring, to correctly calculate the height of the door frame. If you are replacing an existing door, then the latter conditions are not so important.
The next step will be selection and purchase of interior doors, which we will talk about in the next article.
You can purchase the frame and doors separately or assembled. The door frame can be made on one's own. This U-shaped design, consisting of box timber. In essence, these are two posts, as well as a horizontal rail called the lintel.
Note! The best option door frame - without a horizontal bar at the bottom (threshold). If you don't hide this block, it will only get in the way when walking.
When you choose a timber, carefully ensure that there are no unevenness or black (dead) knots on it.
Important! The thickness of the door frame must be equal to the thickness of the door, otherwise the interior door cannot be installed.
To see the quality result of our work, you need professional tool. However it is expensive. At the same time, if you do the work simple tools, that is, the risk of not maintaining the required accuracy.
You will need:
- Hacksaw
- Level meter
- Miter box
- Tape measure for measuring distance
- Screwdriver Set
- Hammer
- Set of chisels.
Power tools:
- Electric milling machine
- Hammer
- Miter saw
- Screwdriver
- Circular.
Consumables:
- Polyurethane foam
- Nails
- Self-tapping screws
- Wedges
- Bars.
We begin to install the interior door
First you need to decide How will the interior door open?. This largely depends on the layout of the house.
For example, in the bathroom it is recommended to have doors that open outward, because there is little space there. And if the door is a transition from a small corridor to large room, then you can install doors that will open into the room.
Let's move on to installation of the door frame. This is the most crucial moment and the basis of all work on installing interior doors, since the entire success of the work depends on the installation of the racks.
1. Miter saw saw off the top parts of the posts at an angle of 45°. If you don't have a miter saw, then this operation can be done using a small hacksaw and a miter box.
2. We measure the racks. It is better to measure and mark the required length of two racks with inside.
3. Now let's prepare the lintel. We measure it from the inside in the same way.
4. Using a miter saw or small hacksaw, saw off the lintel on both sides at an angle of 45°.
How to properly install an interior door
Installing door hinges
Installation door hinges is also a responsible undertaking. Dimensions must be accurately maintained regarding the door leaf and door frame. It is also necessary to accurately calculate the dimensions of the hinge recesses.
1. On the inside of the stand you need to retreat 20 cm. A loop will be attached to this place.
2. The installation distance for the hinge will be 0.4 cm (the distance from the door leaf to the post) + the recess itself in which the hinge will be located.
3. Place a loop in in the right place and trace it with a pencil.
4. It is better to make the area for the hinge using a router, and if there is none, then this work is done with chisels.
5. Using the same principle, we make the seat for the bottom hinge, which should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom edge of the door leaf.
6. We make recesses for the hinges both on the counter and on the door.
Door frame installation
Door frame installation should happen as follows:
1. We attach the racks perpendicularly to the ceiling using self-tapping screws. But first you need to use a drill to make holes of a smaller diameter than the diameter of the screws.
Then we screw the screws into the resulting holes, otherwise the structure at the screwing points may burst. It will be enough to screw in only 4 screws, 2 per side. The entire procedure must be done on a soft substrate (for example, cardboard) so as not to scratch the door leaf.
2. We place the resulting box in the wall opening, securing it with spacers and wedges.
Do not forget! There must be a gap of 2-3 cm between the box and the wall for the mounting foam.
3. Align the door frame horizontally and vertically using a level.
4. We finally fasten the entire box with self-tapping screws, but before that we drill holes in the box and in the wall.
Before drilling the wall, we make marks with a drill through our door frame. If the opening is made of brick, then you should use a self-tapping screw to hit the solid brick, and not into the cracks between the bricks, otherwise the dowels will not hold well.
5. After the holes are ready, of which you can make 6-8 per side, you can install dowels.
6. Now we screw self-tapping screws (it is better to use wood screws) into the dowels through the door frame. It will be more convenient to screw in the screws with an electric drill with an appropriate attachment or a screwdriver. Do not tighten the screws to the limit, as the box may bend. When screwing in, periodically check the level of the structure.
7. Installing hinges.
Be careful! The hinges must be installed so that the door leaf can be attached to the hinges from above.
8. We install the door, hanging it on the hinges, and check whether the door closes and opens correctly. The door should not open or close on its own - this will indicate that the interior door is installed incorrectly. If there are any defects, we eliminate them.
9. Now you need to close the door and insert small spacers of appropriate sizes (cardboard is fine) between the door and the posts so that in the future the foam does not deform the door frame.
10. Finally, we apply foam between the wall and the frame. Start filling the vertical seam from the bottom. Do not overdo it, fill about a third of the total volume of the seams, since the foam increases in size as it dries.
In addition, excessive application of foam leads to its overuse. Also, excess foam can get on the front of the door. The foam should dry for about a day at a temperature of 20°C.
11. After the foam has dried, you can remove all the spacers.
Installation of platbands
After the door frame is installed, you still have to install platbands.
1. To do this, cut the required length at an angle of 45°.
Advice! To ensure that when cutting the platband there are no chips left and the cut is “clean”, saw from the outside.
It is better to saw the slats for the platbands, leaving a margin of a few millimeters to insure in case of a mistake.
2. We secure the resulting platbands using self-tapping screws, nails or glue.
3. If you used nails, then their heads need to be rubbed down.
And if these are self-tapping screws, then you can simply put decorative plugs on them. It is enough to screw 6-8 self-tapping screws onto each side of the trim.
There are times when the width of the casing is too large, because of which it cannot be installed to a wall perpendicular to it. Then you just need to reduce the width of the platband by cutting it off. You should end up with a casing that fits directly against the wall.
If the platbands do not fit well in the corners, then such angles can be adjusted using sandpaper, or it is better to use a belt sander.
Also consider the case when the walls in the room are not straight, and are located in the shape of a trapezoid. This usually happens in toilets and bathrooms of old "Khrushchev" buildings. In such cases, cutting the platbands at an angle of 45° makes no sense, because they will not fit together. Therefore, you can take our advice and cut the trim as in the photo.
However, such methods of installing platbands can be used if the thickness of the box matches the thickness of the wall. And if the wall thickness is greater, then use the installation additional extras.
Installation of accessories
So, in order to prepare the accessories and carry out installation, you first need cut rebounds according to your sizes. It can be done with your own hands from a flat board.
Perfect for damp and thick walls waterproof plywood(BS), which can be additionally pasted over decorative film. But it is often easier and cheaper to install ready-made additions from MDF with decorative design.
Let's consider one more nuance: if the design of the interior door has a significant distortion, then installing add-ons is highly not recommended.
Distortions are evidence that the door frame has been installed wrong, and if the fittings are adjusted to such an incorrect design, then later they will split and warp.
Maybe, walls in the room with a slight slope. If we're talking about about small unevenness (about 5 mm), this can be corrected with a layer of plaster. With much greater curvature of the walls, there will be no choice - you will have to file the fittings under the walls.
Foaming
After installing the extensions and before applying plaster The cracks must be filled with foam.
As you know, when foam hardens, it tends to expand, creating a lot of pressure, and so that the design of the interior doors does not suffer, use our tips:
- Do not remove the leveling wedges and spacers before the foam has completely dried.
- Apply foam in 3-4 layers: apply the next layer after the previous one has dried.
- Leave a space of 1 cm unfilled with foam between the supports and the wall. It is better to plaster this space.
We hope that our advice will bring you benefit and joy from your new doors.
How to install an interior door video
