Scheme of a Chinese chandelier with a fan. Fan connection diagram inside the chandelier

Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

An acquaintance contacted me with the following problem - his radio-controlled chandelier does not turn on.

Let me remind you that a radio-controlled chandelier can be controlled either from the control panel or by pressing the switch key.

In this case, the chandelier stopped responding to both the remote control and the switch.

I think that the problem is quite urgent, so, hot on the heels, I decided to write an article that will help save money and deal with this problem on their own, not only for ordinary citizens-consumers and home craftsmen, but also for electricians who have not yet mastered the wiring diagrams for such chandeliers.

Before you begin troubleshooting and repairing a chandelier with a control panel, you need to know its structure and connection diagram.

Design and diagram of a chandelier with a control panel

Chandeliers with a remote control can only be with incandescent lamps, can only be with halogen lamps, can only be with LED lamps, and can be combined.

In my example, a combined chandelier with halogen lamps and LED lighting is presented.

This is what it looked like when they brought it to me.

Looking at such a knot of wires and blocks, there is no desire to understand further, as in principle, this was done by the electrician who was originally invited to troubleshoot the problem. He simply removed the chandelier, took his hard-earned 200 rubles and recommended that we look for another electrician to repair this chandelier.

But there is nothing supernatural in the scheme. It is only at first glance that this impression is created, but believe me, everything is not so complicated.

So, let's go in order.

Of the variety of radio-controlled chandeliers, their design consists of the following modules of the same type:

radio control unit (controller complete with remote control)
halogen lamp unit
LED lamp block

Let's consider the purpose of each block separately.

A chandelier radio control unit or controller is essentially a wireless switch that can be controlled using a remote control (RC) or using a regular single-key switch. This radio control unit is also called a switch, which is translated from English as “switch”.

The chandelier in question is equipped with a wireless switch type Y-7E radio-controlled unit.

Technical characteristics of the Wireless Switch Y-7E controller:

supply voltage 200-240 (V)
number of output channels - 3
voltage of output channels 200-240 (V)
power of each channel no more than 1000 (W) when connecting incandescent or halogen lamps
the power of each channel is no more than 200 (W) when connecting energy-saving lamps
operating range of the control panel - 8 (m)

The connection diagram for the Wireless Switch Y-7E controller is shown on its body.

The controller is powered via a single-key switch (indicated by the letter K in the diagram) as follows:

phase (L) is connected to the red terminal (Red wire)
zero (N) is connected to the black pin (Black wire)

For clarity and a better understanding of the connection diagram for a chandelier with a control panel, I will post it sequentially in the form of fragments.

Here is a fragment of the Y-7E controller power supply circuit via a single-key switch.

For those who have forgotten how to connect a single-key switch -.

The Wireless Switch controller type Y-7E has three output channels with the following wire markings:

phase of the first channel - brown output (Brown wire)
phase of the second channel - white output (White wire)
phase of the third channel - blue output (Blue wire)
common zero - black output (Black wire)

The remaining one white conductor is the antenna of the signal receiver from the control panel (CP). You don't need to connect it anywhere.

A fragment of the Y-7E controller connection diagram without a connected load.

As you can see, the supply zero (N) and the common zero at the controller output (N) have the same wire color. This is due to the fact that this conductor is single and it does not break in the controller - these two conductors are soldered to one terminal. In principle, they can be swapped.

And here appearance Y-7E controller board, but we will return to it later.

As I said just above, our controller has three output channels, which means three independent lighting groups can be connected to it. In our chandelier it is:

1st group of halogen lamps
2nd group of halogen lamps
LEDs (backlight)

Yes, by the way, in addition to three-channel controllers, there are: single-channel, two-channel and even four-channel. The meaning is the same, the only difference is in the number of output channels and the controller control algorithm, so I will not consider them separately.

We've sorted out the output channels, now let's move on to the loads.

Halogen lamp block

The halogen lamp unit consists of:

power supply (transformer)
halogen lamps

Here I will just point out that our chandelier uses Jindel GET-08 electronic transformers with a voltage of 220/12 (V) and a power of 160 (W) to power halogen lamps.

As a load, halogen lamps with a G4 base, 20 (W) in the amount of 6 pieces, are connected to the transformer. Each lamp is connected to the transformer terminals in parallel.

Attention! Never install halogen lamps of higher power into the chandelier, otherwise the transformer will fail or the sockets will melt.

Let's return to the next fragment of the diagram.

An electronic transformer for the 1st group of halogen lamps is connected to the first channel (Brown wire) of the controller.

The electronic transformer is made according to the PUE:

phase (input) - brown color
zero (input) - blue color

The output wires have the following colors:

phase (output) - white
zero (output) – gray color

All wire connections in the chandelier are made using insulated end caps (IEC).

The plug is made of transparent nylon, through which you can see the depth of entry of the cores into the sleeve and the result obtained after crimping.

Then the resulting insulated connection is further insulated using heat-shrinkable tubing, and the tip is tightened with a zip tie. The result is a fairly reliable and high-quality connection.

An electronic transformer for the 2nd group of halogen lamps is connected to the second channel (White wire) of the controller.

The color marking of the wires here is the same as that of the first transformer.

Let me remind you that halogen lamps cannot be touched with bare hands for the flask - only through a glove, napkin or cloth, otherwise they will quickly fail.

LED block

And it remains to consider the connection diagram for the third channel at the chandelier.

The chandelier in question uses a simple Aled (Jindel Electric) GEL-11101 LED driver with a rectified output voltage of 3-3.2 (V) to power the LEDs.

The driver is connected to the third channel (Blue wire) of the controller.

The driver wire markings have the following colors:

phase (input) - red
zero (input) - red color
“+” (output) – black color
"-" - White color

You can connect from 2 to 22 LEDs to the output of the GEL-11101 driver. In our case, 15 LEDs are connected, which smoothly change their color during operation.

All LEDs in the circuit are connected to each other in series. Naturally, if at least one LED fails, the entire branch will not light up. So if your light stops LED lights in a chandelier, then first of all you need to start by checking the LEDs.

LEDs are very easy to change. They are simply inserted with their pins (legs) into the corresponding connector. The main thing is to observe polarity when installing them.

Alternatively, you can install a jumper instead of a burnt out LED. The driver allows you to work with fewer LEDs, but don’t get too carried away with this, otherwise the service life of the remaining LEDs may be significantly reduced. The jumper can be used as a temporary solution to the problem.

Operating modes of a chandelier with a remote control

As I said at the beginning of the article, the chandelier can be controlled in two ways: using the remote control remote control(like) and using a regular one-key switch.

The chandelier control panel is programmed for a specific frequency and radio signal code, and can only work with the controller that came with the kit. Keep in mind that the remote control for another chandelier will not work for you, so if you lose the remote control, you will definitely have to buy another controller.

button A
button B
button C
D button

When you press button A, the first channel of the controller is turned on, i.e. The 1st group of halogen lamps will light up. When you press button A again, the first channel is turned off. The same applies to buttons B and C, only they control the second and third channels, respectively. But when you press the D button, all three channels are controlled at once.

If you control the chandelier using a single-key switch, then when the key is turned on briefly, the first channel will turn on, when the key is turned off and then turned on, the algorithm will switch to turning on the second channel, etc., i.e. The controller channels are switched sequentially. And then the channel control cycle is repeated.

If there is a long power outage, the controller algorithm is reset to its initial state.

In principle, if the batteries in the remote control are low or you have lost it altogether, then it is quite possible to control the chandelier with a switch, although this is not entirely convenient.

DIY diagnostics and repair of a chandelier with a remote control

We have figured out the connection diagram for a chandelier with a control panel, and now we need to diagnose our malfunction.

Let me remind you that the chandelier in question does not turn on, either from the control panel or from the switch.

In principle, everything is simple. Since there is no radio control, it means that the controller (switch) comes under suspicion first of all. But you need to be 100% sure of this. Therefore, I decided to exclude it from the circuit and connect all three lighting groups directly to a 220 (V) network to check the serviceability of the electronic transformers for halogen lamps and the driver for LED backlighting.

To do this, I put together the following diagram.

I used .

We turn on the machine and watch. All lamps should light up, provided that they are working and their power supplies are working. As you can see, in my case all the lamps are on, with the exception of a couple of halogen bulbs.

I will immediately replace the burnt-out halogens with halogens with similar parameters: G4 base, voltage 12 (V), power 20 (W) from the Navigator.

From here we draw the obvious conclusion that the cause of the malfunction in the chandelier has been found - the Y-7E switch has failed.

During an external inspection of the Y-7E board, I did not see any burnt or charred elements.

Only I noticed some kind of “track” on the MKR-X2 capacitor, but most likely the factory varnish was dropped so carelessly.

By the way, the controller is powered using a transformerless method using a circuit with a quenching capacitor, i.e. The following are connected in series to the 220 (V) network: capacitor MKR-X2, diode bridge, zener diode and load. The excess network voltage “drops” on the capacitor, and at the output of the diode bridge the voltage is already about 12-13 (V) direct current. The signal receiver is powered from a 5 (V) source, which is converted from a 12 (V) voltage.

Relay coils (blue blocks) are connected to voltage 12 (V), the contacts of which switch the load of the output channels.

As you can see, the relay contacts are designed for a current of up to 10 (A) at a voltage of 240 (V), although in technical specifications channel power is limited to 1000 power (W) or current 4.5 (A), i.e. there is even some reserve left.

The article is already quite voluminous, so I will tell you about troubleshooting and repairing the Y-7E controller another time - subscribe to the newsletter so as not to miss the release of new and interesting articles.

Now you need to purchase a controller similar in power and number of channels, connect it accordingly and check its functionality.

A friend of mine purchased a Sneha B-837 controller. It is quite suitable in terms of power and number of channels. Its cost was 535 rubles (as of the date of writing this article).

Similar devices can be purchased at lower prices, for example, on well-known Chinese sites such as AliExpress.

If there is no urgent need for a controller, then for a while the chandelier can be left connected directly from a single-key switch without a controller.

The set even includes a stand for the remote control. It can be placed near the sofa or bed so that the remote control does not get lost.

We connect the purchased controller according to the diagram above. The only difference will be in the colors of the wires of its output channels.

The Sneha B-837 controller has three output channels, which have the following wire markings:

phase of the first channel - blue output (Blue)
phase of the second channel - white output (White)
phase of the third channel - yellow output (Yellow)
common zero - black output (Black-Neutral Out)

I connected the controller wires to the chandelier wires using NShVI sleeve lugs with a cross-section of 2.5 sq. mm. I inserted two conductors, crimped them using PKVk-6 press pliers, insulated them and was done.

We check the functionality of the chandelier, both from the control panel and from the switch key. Only instead of a key I will switch with a two-pole circuit breaker.

The chandelier with remote control works properly.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in repairing a chandelier with a remote control. The main thing is to consistently check the serviceability of all lamps, electronic transformers, power supplies and radio control controller.

And as usual, watch the video based on this article:

At the end of the article, I would like to add that controllers with a control panel can be used not only to control lighting, but also other loads, for example, remote control of blinds, curtains, cornices, gates and other electrical devices.

Addition. Watch the video where I replaced the transformer for halogen lamps near a similar chandelier:

P.S. That's all. I hope that this article will help you figure out how to connect and repair a chandelier with a remote control. Thank you for your attention.

Artificial lighting is an indispensable condition, without which no enterprise or domestic premises, especially in the dark.

In our article we will try to tell you in detail how to independently assemble, install and connect almost any chandelier, be it a simple one with one lamp, or a complex design design with several lamps with a fan or LED lighting.

And thanks to colorful illustrations and videos, even a person without electrical engineering education can repeat the installation of the chandelier. The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions when working with electricity.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chandelier with one lamp

Step 1: Applying markings.

Skip this point if the chandelier will be installed instead of an existing one with a similar mount. If the chandelier will be installed in a new place, or old chandelier fastening of a different type, it is necessary to re-apply the markings for the new chandelier fastening.

You need to find the center of the ceiling. To do this, measure the length of the walls, divide the result in half and mark the resulting size on the ceiling using a cord and a pencil. A small hole is drilled in the suspended ceiling for the wires. IN suspended ceilings from PVC film, first special limiting plastic rings are glued on, and then a hole for the wires is cut out with a blade.

Step 2: Install the ceiling beam.

In the case when the ceiling is made in the form of a complex design structure, in the form of a multi-level plasterboard construction, tension PVC canvases or decorative hanging slabs, which complicates the direct fastening of the chandelier to the surface, it is necessary to take care of the fastening system in advance. Otherwise, wires may break or even part of the ceiling may fall off.

If the chandelier is quite massive and its weight is more than 15 kilograms, then to support the chandelier on the ceiling it is necessary to lay an additional beam behind the decorative ceiling in advance. It could be like wooden beam, and a metal structure, the main thing is that it is located exactly in the place where the chandelier is installed. You can also use a special metal chain if the distance from the main one to decorative ceiling exceeds 1 meter.

Step 3: Installation of the junction box.

From the installation site of the future chandelier, the wires are led out and lowered onto the wall; a distribution box will be installed here. Also, power supply wires from the light switch are supplied to this box.

Important note! According to safety regulations, the distribution box is installed no closer than 15 centimeters from the ceiling. The wires should come out of the box with a margin of 10 centimeters.

To connect the lighting line, it is necessary to use a separate group of wires coming from the distribution board; it must be equipped with a residual current circuit breaker.

The wires in the box are connected according to the chandelier connection diagram. The connected wires are insulated with PVC tape and placed in a box so that they do not intersect with each other. The distribution box is closed with a lid and tightened with screws. On top of it you can plaster and wallpaper.

Step 4: Install the mounting bracket.

Most simple modern chandeliers for one lamp are equipped with a bracket mount. She serves load-bearing mount and allows you to install a chandelier in a short time. Also, thanks to two fastening bolts, maintenance of the chandelier becomes much easier than in old designs with unreliable hooks.

Photo: mounting bracket and terminal connection of the chandelier

After marking the middle of the ceiling, the fastening bracket is applied close to the wire outlet. Using a pencil, mark the location of drilling the hole for future fastening of the bracket to the ceiling. If the chandelier is already equipped with fasteners, then the drill is selected according to the diameter of the dowel. The hole for the dowels should not be located where the wires pass.

Step 5: Connecting the wires and attaching the chandelier.

The wires coming out of the ceiling must be long enough so that when removing the chandelier there is access to the place where they connect to the chandelier wires.

The wires are stripped of insulation and connected using a terminal block according to the diagram. If there is no terminal block included with the chandelier, then the wires are stripped to a distance of 2 centimeters and twisted in pairs, then the connection point is soldered using a soldering iron. After which everything is insulated with insulating tape.

If the chandelier is made of metal and has a screw on the body for connecting the protective ground, do not forget about it. The corresponding wire coming from the junction box is stripped, rolled into a ring shape and tightly screwed with a screw.

After all the wires are connected and insulated, you can attach the chandelier. Make sure that the wires do not fall under the mounting bolts, attach the chandelier to the bracket on the ceiling, aligning the mounting holes and bracket screws - tighten the bolts.

How to connect a chandelier with two or three lamps

The procedure for installing a chandelier with two or three lamps is not much different from installing a chandelier with one lamp, as shown above. The exception is the number of supply wires. For a simple chandelier with one lamp, you need two power wires and a ground wire; if you are going to connect a chandelier with not one, but two or three lamps, then you will need three power wires and one ground wire.

Video: How to properly connect a chandelier yourself

To connect such a chandelier, the wires from the lamp sockets must be connected in accordance with the diagram. One wire is taken from each cartridge and connected together - this will be the middle point, it is connected to the neutral supply wire.

If there are two lamps, then each of the remaining wires from the sockets is connected to the corresponding phase power wire. If the chandelier is designed for three lamps, then the remaining wire from the third socket is connected in parallel with the phase wire from the first or second socket. The wires are also connected by terminal blocks or by soldering and insulated with electrical tape.

It should also be noted that to turn on such a chandelier you will need a two-key switch and, accordingly, three-wire wiring laid to it. In this case, when you turn on one key, one lamp will light up, when you turn on the second, two other lamps will light up, and when you turn on both switch keys, all three lamps will light up.

How to connect a chandelier with 5 lamps

If there is a need to connect a chandelier that has four or five lamps, this will also not amount to special labor. The technology is the same as when connecting a chandelier with two or three lamps, the only exception is the number of lamps in the groups of phase conductors. The number of groups and lamps in them depends on your imagination and is limited by the number of supply phase wires and groups of keys on the switch.

How to connect a switch for a chandelier

To enable simple chandeliers with one lamp a single-key switch is used, its installation is as simple as possible. When connecting a chandelier that has two or more lamps, two- and three-key switches are used.

If the wiring has already been laid, and the number of lamp groups in the chandelier corresponds to the number of keys on the switch, replace it with a new one, following the connection diagram.

Connection diagram for two-button switch

If the switch is installed on new wiring, you need to pay attention to the structure of the switch. In two and three-key switches there is one common terminal; the phase supply wire coming from the distribution box must be connected to it. And each of the remaining terminals, in accordance with the location of the key and the desire to turn on a certain group of lamps, is connected to the wires running through the box to the chandelier lamps.

It should be noted that the switch must open the phase power wire! This will protect you when you change a burnt-out lamp with the switch off.

How to connect a chandelier

Chandelier with fan

There are chandelier models that combine two devices: a lighting chandelier and a fan. This constructive solution will good help on hot summer days. Connecting such a chandelier is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Before connecting, read the passport for the chandelier; it will indicate the connection diagram and the color designation of the wires, the main thing is not to confuse anything.

Ceiling Fan Diagram

For easier connection, the fan leads can be figuratively imagined as another lamp. You can switch the fan on according to your wishes, either together with turning on the lighting, or with a separate switch key.

For the option where the fan is turned on separately from the lighting, you will need a three-wire power line and a two-key switch. The connection in this case will be identical to the connection of a chandelier with two lamps, only instead of the second lamp there will be a fan.

If you plan to turn on the fan simultaneously with turning on the lighting, then you need to connect the wires from the fan in parallel with the terminals of the lamp socket.

Some modern chandelier models feature decorative lighting using multi-colored LEDs. Such chandeliers create a more interesting light, thereby emphasizing the interior of the room.

The connection of such a lamp is made strictly according to the diagram, which is given in the passport for this product. LEDs are designed for low voltage supply, therefore, the chandelier kit uses a step-down LED driver. The power supply of such an LED driver is designed for a lighting network voltage of 220 volts.

When connecting such a chandelier, you can use the above instructions for connecting a chandelier with a fan, only here instead of the fan wires there are power wires for the LED driver.

Artificial lighting is an indispensable condition, without which no enterprise or household premises can fully function, especially in the dark.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chandelier with one lamp

Step 1: Applying markings.

Skip this point if the chandelier will be installed instead of an existing one with a similar mount. If the chandelier will be installed in a new place, or the old chandelier has a different type of fastening, it is necessary to re-apply the markings for the new fastening of the chandelier.

You need to find the center of the ceiling. To do this, measure the length of the walls, divide the result in half and mark the resulting size on the ceiling using a cord and a pencil. A small hole is drilled in the suspended ceiling for the wires. In stretch ceilings made of PVC films, first special limiting plastic rings are glued, and then a hole for the wires is cut out with a blade.

Step 2: Install the ceiling beam.

In the case where the ceiling is made in the form of a complex design structure, in the form of a multi-level plasterboard structure, stretched PVC fabric or decorative suspended slabs, which complicates the direct fastening of the chandelier to the surface, it is necessary to take care of the fastening system in advance. Otherwise, wires may break or even part of the ceiling may fall off.

If the chandelier is quite massive and its weight is more than 15 kilograms, then to support the chandelier on the ceiling it is necessary to lay an additional beam behind the decorative ceiling in advance. It can be either a wooden beam or a metal structure, the main thing is that it is placed exactly in the place where the chandelier is installed. You can also use a special metal chain if the distance from the main to the decorative ceiling exceeds 1 meter.

Step 3: Installation of the junction box.

To connect the lighting line, it is necessary to use a separate group of wires coming from the distribution board; it must be equipped with a residual current circuit breaker.

Step 4: Install the mounting bracket.

Most simple modern chandeliers for one lamp are equipped with a bracket mount. It serves as a load-bearing mount and allows you to install the chandelier in a short time. Also, thanks to two fastening bolts, maintenance of the chandelier becomes much easier than in old designs with unreliable hooks.

Photo: mounting bracket and terminal connection of the chandelier

Step 5: Connecting the wires and attaching the chandelier.

The wires coming out of the ceiling must be long enough so that when removing the chandelier there is access to the place where they connect to the chandelier wires.

How to connect a chandelier with two or three lamps

Video: How to properly connect a chandelier yourself

How to connect a chandelier with 5 lamps

If there is a need to connect a chandelier with four or five lamps, this will also not be difficult. The technology is the same as when connecting a chandelier with two or three lamps, the only exception is the number of lamps in the groups of phase conductors. The number of groups and lamps in them depends on your imagination and is limited by the number of supply phase wires and groups of keys on the switch.

How to connect a switch for a chandelier

To turn on simple chandeliers with one lamp, a single-key switch is used; its installation is as simple as possible. When connecting a chandelier that has two or more lamps, two- and three-key switches are used.

If the wiring has already been laid, and the number of lamp groups in the chandelier corresponds to the number of keys on the switch, replace it with a new one, following the connection diagram.

Connection diagram for two-button switch

It should be noted that the switch must open the phase power wire! This will protect you when you change a burnt-out lamp with the switch off.

How to connect a chandelier

Chandelier with fan

There are chandelier models that combine two devices: a lighting chandelier and a fan. This constructive solution will be a good help on hot summer days. Connecting such a chandelier is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Before connecting, read the passport for the chandelier; it will indicate the connection diagram and the color designation of the wires, the main thing is not to confuse anything.

Ceiling Fan Diagram

If you plan to turn on the fan simultaneously with turning on the lighting, then you need to connect the wires from the fan in parallel with the terminals of the lamp socket.

Some modern chandelier models feature decorative lighting using multi-colored LEDs. Such chandeliers create a more interesting light, thereby emphasizing the interior of the room.

The connection of such a lamp is made strictly according to the diagram, which is given in the passport for this product. LEDs are designed for low-voltage power supply, so a step-down LED driver is used in the chandelier kit. The power supply of such an LED driver is designed for a lighting network voltage of 220 volts.

When connecting such a chandelier, you can use the above instructions for connecting a chandelier with a fan, only here instead of the fan wires there are power wires for the LED driver.

Ceiling fan in last years began to have a much more attractive appearance. Its function is very simple, and it does an excellent job of cooling the air in a particular room. Moreover, it plays a key role in creating complex ventilation system. But its main purpose should not be confused: it cools not the room, but the people. And ceiling models cope well with the task. In this article we will look at how to connect a ceiling fan, its advantages and design, and also present connection diagrams.

Advantages

There are many space cooling systems. Let's look at some positive traits namely ceiling fans:

Unlike air conditioning systems, ceiling fans consume 40% less electricity.
You can have several fans at once in the house and even in one room.
Easy to install.
Unlike an air conditioner, it has significantly more low price, and the quality of cooling does not deteriorate from this.
There are models combined with a chandelier. They are especially often installed in the kitchen.

To make it easier to understand the installation of a ceiling fan, let's look at some of the components of the fan.

Device

Already long years The ceiling fan circuit remains unchanged. Therefore, in each individual case it will not be difficult for you to understand their different models and types. Components of a ceiling fan:

Electric motor. Due to high-quality bearings, the fan can spin around the clock, while consuming a small amount of electricity.
Frame. The housing for the electric motor can be made of plastic or metal. More expensive models have a sealed housing, which prevents dust from entering the engine. Accordingly, the service life increases.
Blades. Their number ranges from 3 to 6. Some designer ceiling fans have up to 15 blades. But in this case, the ceiling fan becomes more of a decorative item. Blades can be made of wood, metal, plastic and other materials.
Lanka (or iron). It connects the blades to the engine. In all cases, it is made of metal.
Ceiling mount. The fastening will depend on the ceiling material (concrete, wood, etc.)
Barbell. The rods can be of different lengths up to 1.5 meters. Used for hanging an item.
Caps. The caps cover the mount on the rod from the bottom and top. The cap hides various electrical fittings.
Decorative overlays. Close the mounting screws on the fan.
Regulators, remote controls and switches. Depending on the configuration and model of the ceiling fan, the presence of the remote control and other controls may vary.

Note! Optimal height fan installation from the floor 2.3 meters!

The entire ceiling fan installation job does not have complex processes. Before starting work, turn off the electricity. This will prevent the possibility of an accident. Afterwards, a support strut is mounted on the ceiling. The weight of the fan can vary, so the spacer must be attached to the base of the ceiling, for example, if the ceiling is made of plasterboard. The hole in the drywall is made according to the size of the junction box that will be installed later.

The next step is time to secure the bracket with a few screws. The wiring that comes out of the box must be identified. Typically, the fan has thin copper wires. They should be connected according to the zero and phase diagram. Each connection can be secured with a decorative cap. All wires should be carefully placed in the junction box and covered with a lid. Now the fan blades and the lamp, if present in the structure, are mounted. A bracket is also used for this. Using decorative caps, close all electrical connections on the rod from the bottom and top.

Note! The fan can be turned on using a key along with turning on the light in the room. Its operation can also be adjusted using remote control. It all depends on the model you choose.

So, as you can see, connecting a ceiling fan with your own hands is not particularly difficult. In most cases, the device comes with detailed instructions from the manufacturer. Therefore, you should not have any particular difficulties with this work. Leave your comments if you already have enough experience in ceiling fan installation work.

Differences in installation

During the hot season, a large ceiling fan performs better than other fan models in normalizing the microclimate in the room. The air flow from it covers a significant area. And even at low speeds, the effect is very pleasant for residents. The fact that the fan occupies a central place on the ceiling, which is usually used for a chandelier, does not cause problems, since in some models the functions of the fan and chandelier are combined.

But attaching a regular chandelier to the ceiling and a combined model are somewhat different. For an ordinary chandelier, a hook is sufficient, which is provided in any room. It is motionless and other than gravity, no other forces act on it. And when the impeller rotates, a torque arises. It is directed in the direction opposite to rotation. And this feature should be taken into account when hanging a ceiling fan of any design, especially when combined with a chandelier. In the absence of rigid fastening, axial movements will appear when the impeller rotates.

For high ceilings

A simple ceiling fan is not noticeable during these movements. But the movement of light bulbs in a chandelier with a fan will create an unpleasant lighting effect in the room. Light and especially shadows will begin to move. If the ceilings in the room are high, suspended ceilings are usually installed. The base of an ordinary chandelier is made according to the level suspended ceiling and suspended on a chain or cable. These extension cords cannot be used for a chandelier with a fan. In this case, the best extension cord would be metal pipe. Its diameter should be such that it fits onto the ceiling hook with two holes made near its end. These hook holes should be diametrically opposed.

The pipe is also convenient for placing wires inside it. Although the wires are connected as if to one device, they actually create two separately operating circuits. After all, during the day when the impeller rotates, lamp light is not needed. Therefore, to control lamps in the simplest circuit, you will need the same thing as for a chandelier. And the fan has its own separate circuit. It allows you to adjust the speed of the impeller. The connection diagram of the simplest model is shown in the image below. It has one lamp and one impeller rotation speed. Therefore, to control such a chandelier-fan, a switch with two keys is enough.

Variety of models

The number of lamps can be three, five, and sometimes more. The impeller speed can be divided into two or three stages and can even be adjusted smoothly. You can also smoothly regulate the light of lamps using dimmers. There are many models of such combined structures produced and it is unlikely that they can be standardized with just a few schemes. In order not to experience problems with installing the connection diagram for such a chandelier, when purchasing, you need to make sure that the accompanying documentation is available and everything is clearly stated in it regarding connecting the product to the electrical network.

If the connection diagram for a chandelier with a fan turns out to be too complicated to assemble it with your own hands, there will probably be specialists who will do everything necessary. When the selected model contains sensors for lighting control, or impeller rotation speed, there is a separate control unit, the possibility of programming is better to immediately resolve the issue upon purchase by calling a specialist to connect such a chandelier with a fan. With your own hands complex circuit You can not only fail to assemble, but also damage something.

Podvi.ru

Wiring diagram for chandelier fan

What is the connection diagram for the fan adjacent to the chandelier

The connection plan for a fan with a chandelier is convenient. This device combines two devices in one, providing general lighting premises and create air movement in hot, windless weather, while saving on air conditioning. Most often, such fans are located in office buildings or small rented workshops, but they can also be located in everyday life. When purchasing such a fan, make sure that instructions are included with the kit. Previously, manufacturers added a section to it about the operation scheme, but due to frequent cases of copying, they stopped doing this.

But if you don’t go into details, the plan for connecting the ventilation inside the chandelier is quite simple. The illuminator has a built-in motor, which can be turned on either by a separate switch or switching combinations (restart), or together with the illuminator. The latter fan connection scheme is not recommended for use and is quite rare. It is not recommended due to the limitations of this scheme - when the lighting is turned on, the fan always works, which is unnecessary in cold weather. The recommended connection diagram is separate, when the operation of each function is regulated by its own switch.

A simple diagram for connecting a fan and chandelier

If you are choosing a fan with a chandelier for your home or home workshop, pay attention to the method of grounding the chandelier; in apartments it is TN-C. In office buildings or change houses, grounding methods may vary, so mistakes can be made. Depends on grounding required amount wires connected to the fan and shield. Attention, the grounding of the CT type must under no circumstances come into contact with other electrical appliances. If speak about TN-C system, then two cables, phase and neutral, will be pulled through the shield to the illuminator.

It will be necessary to connect zero and PE to the distributor via terminals. Attention: Observe safety precautions. When working with electrical appliances, it is necessary to turn off the power and check with a multimeter that there is no voltage on the wires. Only after this start working. Use terminals to connect the wires on the distributor; do not twist them under any circumstances.

In new houses it is already possible to use the TN-S grounding system. Its use is recommended and is a priority to ensure safety.

The use of TN-S implies the presence in the electrical wiring of a three-wire copper cable, one of the cores of which serves to ground the circuit and is connected to switchboard to the ground electrode. Accordingly, the device must have a grounding cable that connects to this core. The fan connection diagrams are different, but it is not possible to describe all of them. When purchasing, read the instructions and use the recommendations provided.

ampersite.ru

How to assemble a chandelier with a fan yourself? Simple recommendations with photos

Wiring diagram for a chandelier with a fan

Air circulation is very important, so the combination of a ceiling chandelier with a fan creates optimal conditions for work. Such lighting devices can provide an influx of fresh air in any season. Reviews of these models indicate that the rotation of its elements does not lower the temperature in the room.

There are different prices for lighting fixtures with a fan:

in a low price category that can be bought inexpensively;
at average price, based on family budget, select the appropriate quality;
There are luxury models, their price is quite high.

If someone has wondered how to connect a chandelier with a fan independently in a three-phase network, then here you can find information on this issue.

Before you start connecting a chandelier with a fan, it is important to decide on its location so that the light falls evenly without disturbing the overall mood of the room. If you plan to connect it in place of the previous chandelier, then you can skip this point.

Next, determine the approximate weight of the chandelier and if you find that it weighs more than 13-15 kg, you need to install a beam that will help hold the chandelier. If you skip this step, you may damage the wires or the surface of the ceiling. IN ordinary apartments It is unlikely that you will find such a heavy chandelier, so, most likely, you can do without installing an auxiliary beam.

Installation of distribution box

Before you start connecting the chandelier with a fan, you need to connect the junction box to the power cable. This must be done carefully and carefully, following all safety regulations.

The heart of the design, that is electrical diagram, should connect at a distance of slightly more than 10 cm with installed box, a supply of wires after connecting the cable is necessary in case of damage to the wires. Then you need to cover all the wires with a special cover. All wires must be insulated and the box must be tightly bolted.

There are already many reviews that are full of pleasant words in favor of such a design. This is not surprising, because buying such a lamp means giving yourself a soft, pleasant coolness along with gentle lighting. Air conditioners consume a large amount of electricity, which cannot be said about ceiling ones. chandelier fans, which can be bought in a specialized store. For example, you can find high-quality, refined and functional model at Leroy Merlin.

Moscow stores have established themselves as reliable suppliers quality designs, where you can easily find a wide variety of lighting products and inexpensively. A photo of a chandelier with a fan will help you get to know the design better. In addition, the photos that are in this article can be an excellent assistant in choosing a chandelier suitable for combating stuffy and stagnant air in the room. The price of a chandelier with a fan is low compared to an air conditioner, and it is still more profitable to purchase such a design than an air conditioner and a chandelier separately.

ogodom.ru

How to connect a chandelier with a fan?

The first step is to turn off the plugs in order to de-energize the apartment; if possible, you can de-energize only the area where the chandelier will be installed. It would be a good idea to make sure that there is no voltage in the sockets of the sockets and on the wires; indicator screwdrivers are used for this. Typically there should be three wires hanging from the ceiling various colors, you need to make sure that they are in good working order, then remove the insulation from the edges and straighten them along different sides from each other so that there is no possibility of their contact.

There are few differences in how to connect a chandelier with a fan from connecting a regular chandelier. The main thing is the ceiling box. For such a chandelier, you need to remove the standard ceiling box and install the one that comes with it. As a rule, it should be located on the ceiling rafters, which will securely hold the mechanism during rotation.

Now you need to determine which wires are “phase” and which, in turn, are “zero”. To do this, you need to turn on the voltage and check each of them with an indicator: in the case of “phase” it will light up, there should be two such wires. You can find out which wires are responsible for what on a chandelier by reading the installation instructions or looking at its diagram.

Then you need to turn off the voltage again and begin directly connecting the fan chandelier. To do this, you need to hang it on mounts from the ceiling and connect the wires according to the principle: phase to phase, zero to zero. At this stage it is necessary to take into account one important point: wiring in the apartment and on the chandelier can be made of different materials, so it is recommended to use connecting blocks. If you are sure that the wires are the same, you can connect them directly to each other.

It is necessary to adjust the height of the chandelier. The distance from the blades to the ceiling should not be less than 25 cm, however, the chandelier must be at a height of more than 2 meters above the floor level, otherwise A tall man may get injured. Before you put everything in place and assemble the tools, you need to turn on the voltage and check that everything is working correctly. If not, you need to look for where the error was made.

uznay-kak.ru

Fan-chandelier + photo

Not every family can afford to buy an air conditioner. Therefore, many people prefer to escape the sultry heat with the help of a more budget-friendly, but still effective device, which involves the presence of a fan in the design. It has many varieties and modifications, one of which is a chandelier with a fan, when using which you can not only cool down, but also get good lighting in any room.

Advantages

Previously, such devices were common in public canteens and large industrial premises. They were not produced for domestic use. But modern chandeliers are often equipped with a fan, making the ceiling lighting fixture multifunctional.

Among the advantages of chandelier fans are the following:

Design features and varieties

Design options using a lamp with a fan of various models and in various interiors are shown in the video:

Such devices are made from a variety of materials. These are plastic, glass, metal, wood, fabric inserts, etc. It will organically complement any interior, thanks to the variety of models offered.

You can use a ceiling fan for the most different rooms, where its functions will become simply irreplaceable:

Many models of these ceiling fans are equipped with additional functions, for example, the ability to change the fan speed, as well as direction, reverse, remote control, and others. They are divided into universal ones, which can be used in almost any room, and household ones for home use.

In addition, such a ceiling fan, due to the presence of lighting lamps, can have different kinds backlight – color or with halogen lamps.

Rules for selection and connection

When choosing a chandelier with a fan, you should definitely pay attention to such device parameters as:

Fan blade diameter. They are selected depending on the height of the ceilings in the room, and the size of the blades themselves will affect the intensity of the airflow. If the ceiling height is less than 3 meters, then you should choose a ceiling fan with a blade diameter 2-2.5 times smaller than the area to be blown. In addition, the number of blades can vary from 1 to 10. The most common are luminaires with fans of 3-6 blades.
Lighting parameters. IN in this case the choice depends on the required level of lighting, which varies and changes with different numbers of lamps used and their power, as well as the size of the chandelier itself.

Connecting such a lamp with a fan is quite simple and will not cause any difficulties for a person familiar with the installation features of conventional chandeliers. This procedure is also facilitated by the connection diagram for a chandelier with a fan, which is usually included in the delivery package of the device.

The work may require the following accessories and tools: construction knife, screwdriver, hammer drill (if installation is carried out on concrete ceiling), dowels, insulating tape.

Important! When installing such a device, care should be taken to soundproof the ceiling structure if it is made of plasterboard or tension systems, since the vibrations created by the fan can make the use of such a lamp too noisy.

At the very first stage, a special ceiling hook is secured on which the entire structure will be supported. To do this, a dowel is driven into the ceiling, and a hook is attached to it. Three wires are used for connection - for the lamp, for ventilation and the zero phase.

Attention! If there is no experience in working with electrical communications, then it is better to entrust the installation of the device to professionals.

All wire connection points must be insulated. If a two-key switch is used for control, then the wires that come from it are stripped in turn and connected to the wires of the chandelier. In this case, one key turns on the lighting, and the second starts the fan.

Conclusion

By choosing a chandelier equipped with a fan for your room, you can get a multifunctional device that will not only provide the necessary degree of ventilation and coolness in the room, but will also be safe for health. It will also help save space and energy.

bouw.ru

Installing a chandelier with a fan

Since ancient times, people have dreamed of a device that creates a refreshing air flow. First attempts to collect mechanical device, capable of replacing and surpassing fans and fans, were undertaken back in the 16th century. In the 19th century, a device was invented whose rotating impeller moved air, bringing a feeling of coolness. The impeller was driven by water pressure, which was supplied through a pipe or hose. There was an attempt to use it for these purposes and steam engine.

But the widespread distribution of such devices became possible only thanks to Thomas Edison: with the advent of electric motor The fan has evolved from an ineffective and cumbersome structure into an extremely useful device that creates comfortable conditions.

Since then, hundreds of models have been created that fully meet the various requirements.

The types used in everyday life include floor, table and ceiling fans. Next, we will look at issues related to installing the latest version.

One of the advantages of fans over split systems, in addition to cost-effectiveness, is ease of installation, which can be carried out without the involvement of specialists.

Installing a "ceiling light" more difficult to install an ordinary chandelier. Therefore, if you have minimal skills in performing electrical work, you can begin to secure and connect the device yourself.

Ceiling fans are distinguished by material of manufacture, diameter, number and size of blades, power, design and other parameters.

As a rule, everything modern models equipped with a lamp, and the lamp can work separately, the fan separately, or all together.

Ceiling height and room size – the most important criteria for selection. The distance between the floor and the blades should not be less than two meters and thirty centimeters - such standards have been adopted in order to prevent injury from rotating elements.

The traditional and most successful location of the device is the center of the room. If the room is small, the air flow created by one fan can provide a comfortable stay in it. In the case of a large area of the room, it may be necessary to install two or more “ceiling lamps”.

In some cases, it is necessary to draw a separate line from the shield to the installation site - if the laid wiring is not able to withstand the load from the engine and lamps turned on at the same time.

Before starting work, be sure to turn off the electricity. Then you should check the presence of a phase using an indicator - do not neglect this simple operation, especially since it does not require much time.

At the first stage, in addition to turning off the power supply, the tools are prepared. If you plan to install the fan in place of the old chandelier, then the next step is to dismantle the lighting fixture.

In most cases, it will also be necessary to replace the ceiling electrical box, which, as a rule, is designed to support the weight of the chandelier alone. Instead, the boxes are installed special block.

Next, you need to assemble the structure according to the manufacturer's instructions. Let us immediately clarify that in some models the blades and the lamp are screwed to the ceiling after the rod is secured. However, in most cases the fan is completely assembled at the bottom.

The blades should be screwed to the rod with the electric motor as securely as possible, the lamp should be fastened efficiently, but carefully so as not to damage the elements.

Wires for connection are pulled through the central hole.

Don't forget to screw in the lamp and cover it with the shade. Now the assembled device needs to be securely fixed to ceiling.

on concrete base the device is fixed using dowels, mounting brackets with screws;
if the ceilings are suspended or slatted, the fastening elements are placed on the main ceiling. This approach can be explained simply: the significant weight of the “ceiling”, reaching more than 20 kilograms, requires high-quality fastening. In addition, it is necessary to provide a gap between the decorative ceiling and the fasteners so that during engine operation vibration is not transmitted to the tensioned material of the decorative ceiling and does not create noise.

The wires of the fan and the wires of the ceiling electrical box must be connected in the sequence specified in the instructions, since manufacturers use different color markings.

The fan is usually mounted on a bracket, the terminal block of which is supplied with power from ground, and then the control unit is connected to the connectors.

After all connections are made, we proceed to the last phase: we fix the cover, which will give the entire structure aesthetics and completeness.

diskmag.ru

How to connect a fan to a switch

Surely you have encountered a situation in your life when there is an exhaust fan in the bathroom and it is turned on using a regular switch. Bathrooms in hotels, sanatoriums, boarding houses, and guest houses are often equipped this way. Maybe one of your acquaintances or friends has seen such a hood? By the way, this is very good idea. And if your bathroom is not yet equipped with such equipment, we advise you to think about installing it. In this article we will talk about the advantages of the device and how to connect a bathroom fan to a switch.

Advantages

The bathroom is a room with high humidity. A excess moisture leads to the appearance of fungi and mold, various unpleasant insects such as centipedes and woodlice. If the bathroom large sizes, it can be equipped various furniture(cabinets and shelves), and high humidity causes delamination of materials. The bathrooms also have metal constructions(towel rails, towel holders and toilet paper), moisture accelerates their rusting.

Also, humidity is often accompanied unpleasant smell dampness. And it happens even worse when the neighbors downstairs smoke in the bathroom, and ventilation duct brings these smells to you.

Condensation also constantly collects on mirrors and walls, which can lead to premature destruction of the tiles.

Natural ventilation does not always cope with humidity and “odors” in the bathroom; sometimes it is further enhanced with the help of exhaust systems. One of these options is a fan.

Channel check

Before connecting the fan, you need to check the condition of the ventilation shaft.

Some people recommend this method by holding a sheet of thin paper to the vent. It should be attracted if the hood is good. But it’s more reliable to check with a flame, using matches or a candle. Light a candle and bring it to the hole, the flame should seem to stretch towards the channel. If this does not happen and the flame is even, it means that the ventilation duct is clogged and requires cleaning. To do this, you need to contact special housing and communal services.

Connection methods

Installing the future fan is half the battle; the main thing is to connect the power cable to it. If the bathroom is already done good repair, doing this will be problematic. Ideal option will be installation ventilation device at the stage repair work, then the cable can be laid in the walls. Otherwise, he will have to come up with some kind of decorative design or plug into a power outlet.

Let's consider options for connecting a ventilation device:

Diagram of parallel connection of a fan with a light bulb. In this case, both the fan and the lamp will operate from one switch. That is, the ventilation device will begin to rotate at the same time as the light comes on, and will be in operation as long as the light is on. The undoubted advantage is the simple and cheap implementation of such a scheme. However, there are many disadvantages. If the switch is turned off, it means the fan is not working, and this is not enough to ventilate the room. You will have to turn on and leave the light on for a while. On the other hand, the fan will always work when the light is on, and when a person takes water procedures, he does not need these drafts.
Circuit from the switch. This method is definitely good, because it eliminates the stupid operation of the hood. That is, the device turns on and off only when needed. You can install a switch separately for the fan, or mount a 2-key switching device and power the lighting from one key, and the ventilation device from the second. This option will increase costs since it will require large quantity cable. After all, the device is already connected directly from the switch with a separate line, and not parallel to the lighting.
The latest fan models are already equipped with automation, in particular a timer. To connect such a device you will need a three-wire wire or cable; the third wire is connected through the light bulb and is a signal wire. There are two options for operating this fan. It can start simultaneously with the lighting turning on, and then turn off after a set time. Or vice versa, while the light is on, the engine does not start, but as soon as the light goes out, the fan starts working, and then it turns off after a certain period of time.

There are also fan models that are initially equipped with their own switch. It has the shape of a cord that comes out of the body. Pulling this cord starts and turns off the device. But keep in mind that such models are completely inconvenient to maintain. Fans are usually installed near the ceiling, and this place is difficult to reach to reach the cord every time.

Fan installation

A two-core cable must be laid to the installation site of the ventilation device. Connecting a fan model with a timer to a one- or two-key switch is done with a three-wire wire (the third wire will be the signal wire).

Make grooves from the junction box to vent. Remember that you can only groove with vertical or horizontal lines, there should be no inclined lines. Do not make grooves closer than 10 cm to doorways. Place the cable in the made groove and secure it with alabaster or cement mortar. One end of the cable should be led out into the ventilation hole, the other into the junction box.

You can also run the cable in a corrugated pipe. Be sure to make sure that the corrugation is not located across the ventilation hole; it must be moved and secured to the side, otherwise it may obstruct the air flow.

The fan terminals are marked in English letters:

“L” for connecting the phase conductor;
“N” for connecting the neutral core;
“T” - this letter is found in models with a timer; it indicates the location where the signal wire is connected.

In a cable, the cores are usually distinguished by color. The neutral core is carried out in blue color, phase in brown or white. Connect the cable cores to the fan terminals accordingly. Check the reliability of the contact connection.

To install the fan in the ventilation duct, first remove the top cover with the mesh. On the bottom panel, to which the device itself is attached, there are four holes for self-tapping screws (usually they are included in the kit along with dowels). But if you already have tiles and you don’t want to drill them, use glue, such as silicone or liquid nails(anything can happen, suddenly the tile cracks or the glaze chips). Apply it to the back of the lid, insert the fan itself into the ventilation hatch, and press the lid tightly against the wall, hold for 1-2 minutes and release. Now replace the top decorative cover.

For more information on fan installation, watch this video:

The connection diagram for a fan with a timer is discussed in detail here:

Switch installation

Grooves from the distribution box must also be made to the installation site of the switch (in the case of walls made of plasterboard sheets used corrugated pipe). It is necessary to lay a two-core wire in the grooves and fix it with a solution. The ends of the wire must be led out into the junction box and into the hole for the switch.

The switch is made of a working part and a protective cover with a button. A socket box must be installed in the hole. Now take the working mechanism; its contact part has two terminals for connecting wire cores. One terminal is an incoming contact; a phase conductor from the supply network is connected to it. The second terminal is the output contact; the phase from the fan will be connected to it. Make the necessary connections and check the reliability of the contact connections.

Fix the working mechanism in the socket box. Install the protective cover and put on the key.

If a switch with two keys is installed, then such a switching device has two output contacts, one of which must be connected to the fan, the second to lighting fixture. Accordingly, one key starts the ventilation device, the second turns on the lighting in the bathroom.

Connecting wires

Now in distribution box the following connections must be made:

Connect the neutral wire from the supply network to the zero wire of the fan.
Connect the phase conductor from the supply network to the conductor that goes to the incoming contact of the switch.
Connect the phase conductor of the fan to the conductor of the wire that comes from the output contact of the switch.

In case of two-button switch The distribution box will additionally contain the following connections:

The neutral conductor from the supply network will still be connected to the neutral of the lamp.
The phase core of the lamp must be connected to the wire core that comes from the second output contact of the switch.

As you can see, nothing complicated. Be sure to consider installing a fan in the bathroom. Nowadays they come up with a lot of fashionable electrical gadgets, but half of them are complete whims. But the ventilation of a room such as a bathroom is really not an unimportant issue. So this article is relevant and useful.