The issue of price and quality in the construction of any housing always comes first. Cost calculation frame house will help plan the construction of affordable housing. Houses created using this technology can last for more than 50 years without overhaul. In a favorable climate, where average air humidity prevails, the service life of such buildings increases to 70 years or more.
When designing a country frame house, first of all, it is necessary to correctly calculate the area of the building in order to determine the amount of materials and the total cost of construction:
- Day zone. Its area depends on the number of people living in the house. This value is approximately 40-60 m² for a family of 3-5 people.
- Sleeping area. The area of each bedroom can be from 10 to 20 m², if 3-5 people permanently live in the house.
- In a frame house designed for more than 3 people, it is worth planning 2 bathrooms with an area of 5-10 m².
- A terrace or veranda will make your stay comfortable. The area of extensions can be from 7 to 15 m².
- About 20 m² are allocated for halls, corridors, staircases, and utility rooms. Depending on the method of heating the house, it is necessary to plan the boiler room. At gas heating this room should be at least 5-6 m² in size.
Calculation of the cost of the foundation of a frame house
The main part of any building is the foundation. It is important to correctly calculate the costs of purchasing materials for its construction.
When constructing frame frames, a pile or strip foundation is mainly used.
Do-it-yourself construction will reduce the overall cost of construction, but work carried out by specialists will be completed much faster with guaranteed quality.
The price includes:
- General work: marking the territory, cleaning the site, lining the surface with geotextiles, laying a cushion under the foundation (RUB 27,500).
- For strip foundation: holding earthworks– 9,000 rubles, laying reinforcement and concrete – from 42,000 to 63,000 rubles, waterproofing (roofing felt), sewer pipes For groundwater, embedded anchors - no more than 6,000 rubles.
- Pile foundation: piles - from 36,000 to 54,000 rubles. depending on the price for 1 piece, the price for installation is about 28,000 rubles, a grillage made of a channel will cost from 30,000 to 45,000 rubles, installation of a plinth will cost 7,000 rubles.
Foundation frame structure doing it yourself will cost 60,000 rubles, and contractors will need to pay an average of 100,000 rubles.
Box price
The price of a box in rubles for a 6x6 frame house includes:
- frame installation – 27,000;
- installation of the plinth, assembly of the subfloor and stairs - 36,000;
- construction of the roof and gables - 36,000;
- box lining – 36,000.
Work at this stage to assemble the box will cost approximately 133,000 rubles.
Price window designs with installation is approximately 30,000-60,000 rubles. for 1 m². Interior doors will cost the same. An external door with installation in a frame house will cost 6,000-18,000 rubles. for 1 m².
If the design of a 6x6 house includes 8 windows and 5 interior doors, then their purchase and installation will cost about 60,000 rubles.
Thermal insulation of a house: price and materials
Insulating a frame house from the inside optimally protects the home from winter frosts. External insulation will create additional load on the frame, so doing it is not always advisable.
It is necessary to carry out waterproofing work. It is done both during construction and after completion of work. It is important to choose the right material for insulating your home.
To save money, you can install the insulation yourself.
During installation, the insulation layer must have the following parameters:
- For insulation of external roof walls - more than 15 cm.
- For sound insulation of partitions, load-bearing walls and floors - 10-15 cm.
- Internal partitions can be without insulation, or this layer can be 5 cm.
The budget heat insulator is glass wool, but experts recommend a more expensive and durable one - basalt wool at a price of 1,800 rubles. for 1 m³.
Materials used as insulation are priced in rubles:
- waterproofing (1 roll) – about 2,400;
- vapor barrier (4 rolls) – within 4,800;
- mineral wool (thickness 15 cm) 21 m³ – 37,400;
- mineral wool (thickness 10 cm) 7 m³ – 12,500.
Insulation will cost at least 57,000 rubles if the work is done independently. If you hire a contractor, insulation will cost 72,000 rubles.
Installation of finished floors is carried out separately. The floors are assembled with 150 mm boards (25x100). A tongue and groove board is taken if a special one will not be installed flooring. 1 m² of flooring made from tongue and groove boards will cost 360, and from edged boards - 240 rubles. Working on your own will save 50% of money. A finished 2-level floor made of tongue and groove boards will cost 27,000 rubles.
Communications and heating
It is necessary to think about heating, plumbing, ventilation, sewerage and electrics at the stage of designing a house.
The cost of water supply and sewerage depends on the location of the water source and drainage. Provided that all this is located nearby, the cost of the water supply system, which includes pipes (foamed propylene) and all the planned plumbing, will be at least 30,000; the services of a master will cost about 18,000 rubles.
The cost of installing a heating system depends on the type of fuel and can exceed the cost of the entire house. The most expensive option is gas, since it requires the installation of expensive equipment.
Costs for electric heating will amount to 357 rubles. for 1 m². But electricity itself is expensive. If you install a gas boiler with a water heating system, then installing the equipment in a 6x6 house will cost 77,000. A team of technicians to install and start up the equipment will have to pay 60,000 rubles.
A time-tested option is stove heating. The work of a good stove maker will cost 200 thousand rubles.
The cost of the energy supply system will be 300-600 rubles. for 1 m². An electrical network installed in a 6x6 m house will cost 15,000; an electrician will charge about 9,000 rubles for his services.
Interior and exterior finishing
External finishing on the frame should be made of quality materials to prevent exposure of the house to precipitation. External walls of buildings built according to frame technology, sheathed with materials that can be selected at a price of 300 rubles. (siding, eurolining, imitation timber or block house). Aspen lining (class A) looks great on the walls of the building, which will cost 30 thousand rubles, 24 thousand rubles. you'll have to pay the craftsmen.
For interior decoration It is best to choose lining or drywall. For 1 sheet of drywall, the area of which is 3 m², you need to pay about 189 rubles, lining will cost 5-6 times more. Premises with high humidity(bathroom, kitchen) are often covered with waterproof plywood.
Approximate amount of materials for finishing a 6x6 m house:
- drywall - 63 m² (about 5,400 rubles);
- lining for the attic - 80 m² (24,000 rubles);
- decorative waterproof plywood for finishing office premises - 63 m² (12,000 rubles);
- floor and ceiling skirting boards– 100 p/m (24,000 rubles).
Finishing work, taking into account the work of a team of craftsmen, will cost about 100 thousand rubles.
Houses made of SIP panels
In Canada, a technology for constructing housing from SIP panels has been created. Houses built using this method are suitable for the Russian climate.
The cost of installing 1 slab consists of the following values in rubles:
- the panel itself – 2,400-4,200;
- lumber and fasteners – 600;
- installation work – 1200.
A 6x6 m house frame made of SIP panels will have the following cost in rubles:
- roofing installation – 36,000;
- thermal insulation of the subfloor - 18,000;
- floors – 12,000;
- external load-bearing walls and internal walls with pediments – 196,000;
- rafters - 72,000.
The total cost of building a house from SIP panels will be 449 thousand rubles. This amount also includes wages for workers. Self-construction frame house Canadian technology will cost 340 thousand rubles.
Cash invested in initial stage construction, allow you to save on the thermal insulation system in the future and installation of the finished floor. Manufacturers claim that houses made from SIP panels are much stronger than conventional frame houses, although the price differs little.
Conclusion
Each owner chooses for himself what his home will be like. There are various calculators for calculating construction costs.
For comparison, you can analyze the cost of a 6x6 frame building for different options construction:
- A house using Canadian technology made of SIP panels will cost from 700 to 900 thousand rubles.
- Panel construction will cost 950 thousand - 1 million 300 thousand rubles.
- 540-720 thousand rubles will be spent on the frame structure.
Calculation of the cost of building a frame house includes the price of design and estimate documentation, materials and hired labor of workers performing construction and installation work. Costs can be significantly reduced if you build frame housing yourself, involving craftsmen only in critical areas of the work (electrical wiring, installation of communications, heating). Construction prices depend on the dollar exchange rate and are therefore subject to change.
Calculation of materials
| WALLS: | |
| wooden beams (150x50mm): | |
| 4.4 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³ | 30800 rub. |
| DSP panels (3200x1250x10mm): | |
| 22 pcs. x 742 RUR/pcs. | 16324 rub. |
| GKL panels (2500x1200x10mm): | |
| 25 pcs. x 260 rub./pcs. | 6500 rub. |
| bars (40x25mm): | |
| 1.1 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³ | 7150 rub. |
| : | |
| 89 m² x 68 RUR/m² | 6052 rub. |
| : | |
| 77 m² x 11 RUR/m² | 847 rub. |
| bioprotective solution: | |
| 77 l x 75 rub./liter | 5775 rub. |
| siding panels (3660x230mm): | |
| 101 pcs. x 437 RUR/pcs. | 44137 rub. |
| bars (40x25mm): | |
| 0.2 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³ | 1300 rub. |
| bioprotective solution: | |
| 9 l x 75 rub./liter | 675 rub. |
| mineral wool (Rockwool): | |
| 12.68 m³ x 3700 RUR/m³ | 46916 rub. |
| TOTAL: by foundation | 39195 rub. |
| COVERS: | |
| pine beams 150x50; 150x100: | |
| 2 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³ | 14,000 rub. |
| plasterboard panels Knauf (2500x1200x10): | |
| 13 pcs. x 260 rub./pcs. | 3380 rub. |
| galvanized profile with fasteners: | |
| 111.4 p.m x 52 rub./p.m | 5793 rub. |
| mineral wool (Rockwool): | |
| 9.6 m³ x 3700 RUR/m³ | 35520 rub. |
| waterproof fabric (Tyvek Soft): | |
| 93 m² x 68 RUR/m² | 6324 rub. |
| vapor barrier film p/ethylene: | |
| 93 m² x 11 RUR/m² | 1023 rub. |
| plywood FC 1525x1525x18: | |
| 0.7 m³ x 19,000 rub./m³ | 13300 rub. |
| subfloor planks: | |
| 0.8 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³ | 5200 rub. |
| TOTAL: by floors | 84540 rub. |
| ROOF: | |
| wooden beams (150x50mm): | |
| 1.6 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³ | 11200 rub. |
| bioprotective solution: | |
| 24 l x 75 rub./liter | 1800 rub. |
| waterproof fabric (Tyvek Soft): | |
| 94 m² x 68 RUR/m² | 6392 rub. |
| metal tiles (Monterrey): | |
| 97 m² x 450 RUR/m² | 43650 rub. |
| roofing screws 4.8x35: | |
| 3 packs x 550 rub./pack (250 pcs.) | 1650 rub. |
| ridge element (2000mm): | |
| 5 pieces. x 563 rub./pcs. | 2815 rub. |
| timber lathing 100x30mm: | |
| 0.8 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³ | 5600 rub. |
10:0,0,0,220;0,290,220,220;290,290,220,0;290,0,0,0|5:171,171,0,220;0,171,111,111;171,290,160,160|1134:220,160|1334:146,39;146,122|2255:0,136|2155:65,0;65,220;206,220|2422:290,50;290,99|1934:211,-20
RUB 424,868.0
Only for the Moscow region!
Calculation of the cost of work
Do you want to find out how much it costs to build your house and choose contractors?
Place an express application and receive proposals from construction professionals!
Example of 8x6 m layout for calculation |
||
 |
1.
Wooden stands d=150mm; 2. Mineral wool insulation (between beams) d=150mm; 3. Siding panel; 4. Air gap d=20-50mm; 5. Windproof film 6. Vapor-proof film + OSB sheets d=12mm + Planks 40x25mm + GKL sheets d=10mm 7. Wooden beams d=150-250mm; 8. The roof is metal tile; 9. Columnar-block foundation h=1.8m; |
|
Prefabricated panel wall with a ventilated facade made of siding profile and interlayer insulation
Frame-panel wall
The principle of prefabricated panel buildings is based on a load-bearing beam frame, reinforced on the indoor or outdoor side with wood panels (such as DSP, chipboard, OSB or OSB) and filled with mineral fiber insulating material along the thickness. Due to their low weight, frame walls can be installed on lightweight, slightly buried strip-ring or pile foundations, which significantly reduces the total construction costs.
Due to manufacturability and low cost, as well as decent strength, prefabricated panel design has gained widespread recognition for individual development. Today, a significant proportion of cottages in Norway, Japan, Canada, Sweden, Finland and the USA were built using this technology.
Installation of frame-panel wall structures is done in the following sequence:
- On a foundation previously covered with a moisture-proof fabric, a multi-sectional frame is built from dried lumber, section 150x45 mm or 150x50 mm, painted with an antiseptic solution (for example, KSD, Biofa, Tex, Senezh, Holzplast, Pinotex, Aquatex, Biosept, Tikkurila, Dulux, Kartotsid , Cofadex, Teknos).
- Outside frame assembly hung with a vapor-permeable waterproofing film, such as Yutavek, Tyvek, Izospan, which protects the heat-insulated frame-panel base from getting wet and, at the same time, promotes the free removal of wet fumes from the heat-saving material.
- To organize a ventilated channel, outside the hydro-windproofing vapor-conducting fabric, they are installed on the frame posts wooden slats, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic, or galvanized racks protruding by 30-40 mm.
- From the inside, the space between the beams of the frame structure is filled with dense mineral wool heat-insulating material, such as: P-175, P-125, Knauf, PPZh-200, Izomin, Rockwool, Ursa, Isover, Isorok, 15 cm deep, then spread over the beams polyethylene film, with careful sealing of the joints with tape.
- After installing the vapor-proof layer, the frame is strengthened with chipboard panels (chipboard), OSB (oriented strand board) or CSP (cement-bonded particle board), 9-12 mm thick, with technological gaps of up to 3 mm.
- After constructive cladding of the frame, sheathing is made from 40x25 mm bars for further installation of plasterboard sheets.
- Finally, PVC siding cladding is sewn onto the sheathing installed outside the house.
Plastic siding cladding
Manufacturers vinyl siding(for example, companies: Snowbird, Holzplast, Tecos, Mitten, Vytec, Georgia Pacific, Varitek, Nordside, Ortho, FineBer, Docke, AltaProfile, Gentek) announce a wide color palette, allowing each building to look different from the rest.
In a fire, polyvinyl chloride siding only melts slowly, igniting at temperatures above 390°C (and wood already at 230-260°C), quickly extinguishing as the source of fire decreases, while the amount of harmful emissions is no more than during pyrolysis of wood.
It is worth knowing that polyvinyl chloride siding can be used for a long time and have a beautiful exterior, only if the installation instructions are strictly followed.
Since the PVC siding profile changes quite significantly in size with temperature fluctuations, it is necessary to provide for loose fixation of the vinyl panels.
PVC siding profile does not corrode, is resistant to biological, physical, and climatic aggressions, and is practically non-flammable.
Basic installation rules for fixing PVC siding:
- When installing a subsequent siding panel, click it into the lock with the underlying row and, without tension, attach it with self-tapping screws.
- In order to hide the seams, it is more correct to lay out the siding panels, starting from the side of the house, moving towards the facade, and each subsequent siding panel will slide over the one already placed in the laid out row, approximately 2.5...3 cm, for the same purpose The joints being made for the nearest rows should be shifted relative to each other.
- Fixed siding elements should move effortlessly from side to side; therefore, it is unacceptable to tighten the screws in the fixing slots all the way.
- In order not to interfere with thermal contractions and expansions and, accordingly, not to provoke wave-like deformation of PVC plastic, it is advisable to screw in self-tapping screws and nail nails into the vinyl profile in the center of the existing technological holes.
- It is important to maintain cuts, about a centimeter, in the joining areas plastic panel And additional details (external corner, platband, H-profile, internal corner, etc.), as well as in places where street networks are installed (pipes, brackets, wires, cables), in order to compensate for thermal expansion or contraction of vinyl siding.
- Installation plastic profiles is carried out from bottom to top, while the hidden starting profile is first secured.
Prefabricated columnar foundation
If construction is carried out on dry, non-heaving (sandy, rocky) lands, then for panel one-story buildings, a shallow block-and-pillar foundation made of small solid blocks on a gravel backfill is suitable.
When a stone building is being constructed with a total area of 50.0 sq.m., the foundation columnar supports are laid on slabs whose base dimensions are up to 2 times larger than the cross-section of the columnar supports, and a single reinforced concrete strip is poured above the ground .
For brick houses, wooden formwork with reinforcing bars is knocked onto the blocks and reinforced concrete tape is poured, and then waterproofing and beam bars.
The approximate methodology for constructing such a foundation solution is as follows:
- Recesses are dug at the bottom up to 1 m.
- Crushed stone is poured to a level of 10 cm, trampled down, and covered with waterproofing.
- Then, onto the bed from cement mixture lay foundation blocks, grade TsKS-100 20x20x40, up to a mark of 500 mm above the surface of the construction site.
- Waterproofing is placed on the blocks leveled with mortar and beams are installed.
Floor made of wooden beams
In low-rise construction, wood-beam floors are mainly popular due to the cost-effectiveness and ease of their construction.
Timbers are usually used under logs coniferous species(pine, larch, spruce), with operational humidity not higher than 12-14%. The best lag is a block with an aspect ratio of 7:5 (for example, 0.14x0.10 m).
When choosing material for beams, it is necessary to use special tables that provide a correlation between the parameters of the beam structure and the size of the span and load; or you can start from the approximate norm that the width of the log should be about 1/24 of the length of the beam, and the thickness - 50÷100 mm, with a load of 1.5 kPa and alternation intervals beam beams 500 and 1000 mm.
For suitable replacement of beams of the design size, bolted boards can be used, subject to proper respect for the overall size.
Some rules for installing wood beams:
- In log houses, the edges of the beams are cut off in the manner of a bell, and then the last log is inserted into the prepared opening to the full depth of the wall.
- The beams are mounted in the following sequence: first the first and last, and then, with adjustment to the spirit level, all the others. The logs must rest on the wall by at least 0.15-0.20 m.
- The gap between the smoke channel and the logs must be at least 0.40 m, and the beams must be spaced at least 5 cm from the stone wall.
- To protect against rot damage that can occur when steam condenses in the cavity stone wall, the ends of the beam beams are cut at an angle of approximately 60 degrees, impregnated with an antiseptic (for example: Pino-ex, Kartotsid, Cofadex, Holzplas-, Dulux, Biosept, Senezh, Biofa, Aquatex, Tikkurila, Teknos, Tex, KSD) and wrapped with bitumen cardboard, leaving the cut uncovered.
- In block-brick walls, the edges of the joists are located in masonry nests, where condensation forms; for this reason, space for ventilation is created between the brick and the cuts of the ends of the beams, and if the length of the opening allows, a thermal liner is also installed.
The interfloor ceiling is not subject to insulation; the floor of the first floor is thermally insulated with a vapor barrier film placed above the insulation, and attic floor thermally insulated with a vapor-tight membrane laid underneath the thermal protection.
However, if the task of structural strength of wood-beam interfloor ceilings, as a rule, is solved by simply increasing the cross-section of the joists and their number, then with sound protection and with fire resistance, everything is somewhat more complicated.
One of the options for improving the soundproofing and fire protection properties of timber interfloor ceilings is as follows:
- To the bottom of the beams, perpendicular to them, using spring holders, after 0.30-0.40 m, lathing bars are installed, onto which plasterboard sheets are tacked from below.
- It is laid on top of the made lattice structure and fixed with brackets to the beams synthetic fabric, on which slab mineral fiber insulation, such as: Rockwool, Ursa, Isorok, Isover, Knauf, Izomin, 5 cm thick, is tightly installed, extending onto the sides of the beams.
- On the side of the upper floor, chipboard slabs (16...25 mm) are installed on the logs, after that, a hard mineral wool mat (2.5...3.0 cm), and again, a layer of chipboard “floating” floor is laid out.
Metal roof
The roof is laid on a solid structure consisting of board-and-beam sheathing and rafter elements.
When constructing private housing, a system of 2.3 spans with middle supports and inclined rafter beams is traditionally designed.
The lower ends of the rafter legs are lowered onto a mauerlat beam measuring 10x10...15x15 cm; the gap between the rafter beams is usually selected within 0.60...0.90 m with the width/thickness of the rafter legs being 50x150...100x150 mm.
To quickly remove condensate coming from the home and protect sheets of m/tiles from subsequent rust, the total size of the ventilation gaps: inflow and outflow, is calculated in a proportion of 1/100 to the size of the roof.
Today, the Mon-errey tiled pattern is considered especially famous: wave depth - 23 mm, wave period - 0.35 m, produced by different manufacturers (Metal Profile, Grand Line, Interprofile, Poimukate, Pelti ja Rauta, Finish Profiles).
Typical rules for installing m/tile sheets:
- For further insulation of the above-floor level, it is advisable to lay rafter legs, before installing the sheathing, diffusion fabric (TechnoNIKOL, Yutavek 115.135, Tyvek, Izospan, Stroizol SD130). It is prohibited to use “non-breathable” films on bitumen aggregate as waterproofing.
- Along the rafters, on a spread moisture-proof sheet, 3.0x5.0 cm bars are attached, and to them there is a 100x30 mm lath flooring, with an interval of 35 cm (for Monterrey sheets). In this case, the distance between the lower end of the starting board and the central axis of the next one should be 300 mm, and the starting board should be placed with a larger cross-section (2 cm).
- When installing the sheathing, in places where the snow-retaining structure is further attached, it is necessary to attach reinforcing bars under the top point of the wave.
- Before laying the strips of m/tiles, the hooks of the grooved structure are fastened to the cornice or rafter beams.
- Metal tile sheets are attached to the lower bend of the wave, in the areas of support on the sheathing preparation.
- To the bottom bar of the sheathing, which is thicker than the others, strips of m/tiles are attached above the wave step.
- The extreme left and right of the slope, strips are attached along the boundaries of the roof more often, i.e. on each purlin.
- When laying strips of metal tiles, the initial strip is placed along the bottom and side of the roof and hung on one screw to the last board of the sheathing; the same is done with 2-3 adjacent strips in a row, fastening them to each other and aligning them along the eaves line, and only after this is completely secured, using an average of 6-8 pieces of roofing self-tapping screws with sealing gaskets per 1 m² of roofing.
- The installation of sheets of metal tiles is carried out starting from the bottom, in a direction arbitrary along the horizon, following the principle that each successive sheet covers one period and the capillary channel of the previous one.
When constructing a frame house, an important and crucial step is the preparation of material for the walls of the house. To build the walls of a frame house, we will need the following building materials:
Timber for the construction of vertical posts, horizontal connecting jumpers of the frame;
Edged board;
Heat and sound insulation;
Polyurethane foam;
Waterproofing - roofing felt;
Fastening material (staples, nails, etc.).
Quantity building material For the construction of the walls of a frame house, we calculate based on the size of the future building. For example, it is necessary to build the walls of a frame house with the following parameters: height - 2.8 m; length - 10 m; width - 8 m.
Based on these data, we calculate the number of vertical posts of the house frame. The total length of the walls of the house will be (2x10 m + 2x8 m), that is, the perimeter of the house is 36 meters. Racks for the walls of the house must be placed in increments of 50 cm, and it must be taken into account that in the locations window openings the distance between the posts must be at least 1.2 meters.
Thus, for the racks of the house frame you will need approximately 4 m3 of timber with a cross section of at least 100x150 mm. For connecting posts into a frame and final connection wall frames you will need at least another 3 m3 of such timber. In total, to make the frame of the walls of the house you will need 7 m3 of 100x150 mm timber.
Edged boards are used to cover the frame. The amount of edged boards that will be needed to cover the walls of the house (length -3 m, thickness -25 mm, width -150 mm) -4.65 cubic meters. meters. In this case, windows and doors are not taken into account; their size and quantity depend on the desire of the developer. Insulation and sound insulation are calculated based on their technical parameters.
Technology for erecting walls of a frame house.
The construction of walls begins with the installation of an insulating substrate, for example roofing felt. The roofing material is laid on the surface of the foundation, after which the embedded beam is laid on it. The beams in the corners are connected to each other “in a paw” - cutting out half the thickness of the beam at the ends. For rigidity, in advance drilled hole A dowel is driven in at the joints.
The base of the frame is laid at a height equal to the height of the two embedded beams. After laying the embedded beams, a cut is made in the upper beam with a depth of half the beam. In this case, the number of “seats” corresponds to the number of frame racks.
The racks, prepared at a given height, are installed in the prepared “seating” places (grooves) and secured with temporary jibs. After all the racks are installed, the upper beam is attached to the top; the upper ends of the racks are inserted into the grooves cut in advance in the upper beam. The distance between the grooves in the upper beam is the same as in the lower one.
To add rigidity to the structure, the racks are attached using jibs, after which all temporary jibs are removed from the boards.
.jpg)
Longitudinal beams made of timber are also attached groove to groove, and pulled together using nails no less than 100 mm long. After this you can sheathe outer wall edged boards- with a continuous “shield”, leaving only openings for windows and doors, insulation is laid and everything is sewn up again with boards. The frame walls of the house are ready, you can proceed to the construction of the floor and roof of the house.
Frame construction has recently gained great popularity. The cost of a frame house, compared to other materials, will be 30% less. It is very easy to obtain the consumption of lumber and facing mixtures. To calculate a frame house, an online calculator will be useful. The program works quickly. The main thing is to know the parameters and features of the future structure. Application features for obtaining reliable results will be discussed later in the article.
Project development
The first step is to develop a project for the future home. If you understand construction, you can compose it yourself. If not, seek help from an architect. The specialist, taking into account all your ideas and wishes, makes a drawing of the house.
The next stage is material selection and calculation required quantity and cost.
It is more convenient to make calculations at construction stages, which include:
- Pouring the foundation;
- Construction of the frame;
- Overlap;
- Roof installation;
- Roof.
An online calculator will help you calculate the construction of a frame house. It is important to remember that no two houses are alike. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to the location, presence and depth of groundwater, soil type, construction season, and so on.
After selecting the concept and price, a detailed estimate is drawn up.
There are several technologies for building a frame house. Each geographic area has its own way of constructing a structure.
There is Scandinavian, Finnish, Canadian technology. Given their features, you should pay attention to some differences in design solutions.
The requirements directly depend on the materials that are used. After all, the reliability, strength and durability of the structure will depend on their quality and type.
Not only appearance is taken into account, weight, resistance to loads and environmental influences are also taken into account.
The designer must take their properties into account. Also pick up similar materials, which can replace the main ones.
Online calculations of the future frame structure
Calculating a frame house, if you use a calculator, will allow you to quickly find out the amount of material that is needed for future construction. Without the program, you may not buy more or take something extra, and this is an additional expense.
Almost everyone uses online payments construction companies, because it’s fast and convenient. Today, almost everyone can use the service.
Before use, it is necessary to determine the exact parameters and dimensions of the building.
To get a calculation, you must enter the values and click the “calculate” button. The exact amount will be displayed as a result after all calculations are completed.
Sometimes it happens that people have not yet decided on the exact project, but want to know the approximate cost. This option is also possible.
When drawing up estimates, it is necessary to take into account all the costs that will be required for materials and workers’ services.
If the construction of the structure is planned on your own, then the amount will be less than if workers are involved.
Types of online programs
Exist different types calculators for calculations. This allows you to calculate all types of materials for building a house.
Let's look at the most common types.
Heat loss calculation
The heat in the room depends on the temperature characteristics of the region where the structure is being built. Climate is not taken into account when a house is built for living in summer period time.
When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the coefficient of thermal resistance. This applies to walls, floors and attic space. If this is not taken into account, the cold will come from the floor or the heat will escape through the attic. As a result, you can obtain the required thickness of walls and ceilings. In most cases, frame houses are supplied in kits, which come with accompanying documentation.
Construction of a house using Canadian technology involves the use of sandwich panels. For exterior finishing A minimum amount of materials is required. Insulation is provided inside the sandwich panels.
Deflection of wooden beams
To design a structure, it is necessary to calculate the load-bearing capacity of the beams. Most often, single-span beams and beams are selected. This allows you to quickly obtain the result, taking into account the section, pitch and span length.
Construction Materials
Allows you to determine the size of the roof rafters, stairs, foundation, frame. And also their volume for construction, walls, foundation pits, pouring the foundation.
Roof area
Depending on the type of roof, different amounts of material are required for its construction. Carefully select the roof, taking into account the characteristics of the area, as well as its weight.
Metal tiles will be lighter than clay tiles.
Facing
For the exterior decoration of the house, lining is used, which imitates logs or beams. You must first calculate their volume.
Wallpaper and paints for interior decoration
The volume of paint that will be needed to cover the walls can also be quickly calculated. You must enter the surface area to be painted into the program. This way we will find out the average paint consumption and the number of layers. After entering all the values, we get the result. The value may be slightly different from reality.
When calculating wallpaper, you must enter its width and height, wall parameters, as well as the number of meters in one roll.
The program will display the estimated number of rolls.
conclusions
Construction of a frame house is an expensive process that consists of several stages. Initially, it is necessary to design the structure; it is better to resort to the help of architects. Next - calculate the quantity necessary materials. Analyze and begin construction.
There is a certain difficulty in calculating materials for frame house construction. It lies in the fact that the structure of enclosing structures can be very diverse; it is thanks to invariance that it is possible to build a house with minimal costs. Therefore, it is very important to have a project on hand, regardless of whether you decide to purchase a ready-made house kit or a future cottage - this is a bouquet of your ideas.
Surely, while carrying out a simplified economic cost analysis, you have already encountered questions that in one way or another relate to the selection and calculation of material. Of course, finding the optimal balance between price, quality and ease of installation is not an easy task.
But, nevertheless, having disassembled the structure element by element, you can figure out which option is best for you. It is more convenient to make calculations according to the stages of construction, i.e.
- Foundation
- First floor covering
- Construction of the frame
- Roof installation
- Sheathing with thermal insulation material
this sequence is typical for Scandinavian house building
technologies when wall insulation is carried out only after the roof is erected.
If the consumption of materials for arranging the foundation is more or less known, since typical types of foundation are often used, such as shallow strip, pile or columnar, then you will have to work hard with the selection and calculation of lumber and insulation. Although if you understand key moment process, there is nothing complicated about it, you just need attention and patience.
In order to make the task as easy as possible, they start by selecting material according to the drawings; for convenience, we recommend drawing a design block, for example power frame and make a scan for each component part (ceiling, wall, etc.). You can also make calculations using detailed drawings.
I would immediately like to note that for frame house construction, lumber must be dry and pre-treated with various antiseptic compounds. Otherwise, the assembled structure may shrink, which will inevitably lead to various kinds of distortions in the structure and, as a result, the formation of cracks and other defects. The impregnation must penetrate approximately 10 mm into the wood; only in this case can a long service life be guaranteed. Surface application of antiseptics will protect structural elements for a maximum of two to three years, after which re-treatment of the wooden parts of the house will be required.
Undoubtedly, wood, dried and processed in production conditions much more expensive than what can be purchased at construction sites. If you still decide to save money and purchase lumber of natural moisture, then after it is delivered to the site you will need to stack it. Each row is laid on slats to prevent the boards from touching each other and to ensure natural ventilation. Although this method of removing moisture does not guarantee against corroding, the main drawback of wood.
Calculation of materials for the construction of a frame house
To construct a power frame, softwood lumber is often used. For tying the lower chord, a regular beam of 150x150 mm is used; this section is suitable for corner posts if the building has two levels. The required quantity is calculated based on the perimeter of the building, i.e. we will need width (a), length (b), according to the simplest mathematical formulas we will find out the required volume of timber, (a + b) x 2 = N - this is the total value of the material in linear meters. To convert to cubic meters V = N * 0.15 * 0.15 = 0.0225 * N (m 3 ). We carry out calculations for racks in a similar way, with the only difference that instead of the length and width of the house, we will need other values, the number of supports (n) and the height (h) of the floor or house, if the project provides for their end-to-end arrangement. According to the project, we determine the required volume of lumber for other structural elements. However, I would like to draw attention to some points. As for the intermediate posts, their cross-section should be commensurate with the thickness thermal insulation material.
When choosing a step (distance) between them, they are guided by two conditions: the calculated load and the standard size of the material used. Agree, it is not logical to place supports at a distance of 950 mm, if you know that the sheet of plasterboard with which you plan to cover the inner surface has standard width 600, 800 and 1200 mm. Therefore, by choosing, for example, a pitch of 800 mm, you can easily calculate the number of boards (M) for installing intermediate posts. To do this, take the perimeter of the house and divide it by the set step, N / 0.8 = M, from this value we subtract the number of main racks of the power frame and we get how many racks in pieces are required for one floor. This figure can also be expressed in cubic meters, knowing the geometric parameters of the board used (usually 100x50mm), we use the same formula as for timber, V = (M – f)*0.15*0.05 = 0, 0075 * (M – f) m 3, where f is the number of main posts.
A very interesting and functional alternative to a lattice structure made of timber and boards in frame housing construction can be called one that has recently appeared on the Russian market - an I-beam, which is made entirely of wood.
It serves as a ready-made cell for laying thermal insulation material. It consists of two beams connected to each other by a jumper, which is made of OSB board. The I-beam shelf is easily adjusted by the size of the base and is matched to the calculated thickness of the thermal insulation. Using this structural element, the thermal uniformity of enclosing structures is improved and the risk of shrinkage deformations of the frame is reduced.
To calculate other materials, in most cases, surface area will be required, this applies to waterproofing (roofing felt, roofing felt), subfloor, interior and exterior finishing. Everything is simple here, we take the dimensions of the space that we need and, using simple mathematical operations, carry out the calculations.
Along with the material for the load-bearing frame, the choice of thermal insulation is very important. Disputes on this issue not only do not subside, but as new representatives appear in this sector, they only flare up. First of all, it is worth noting that there are two main types of heat and soundproofing materials: soft and hard. Soft materials include basalt wool and fiberglass insulation. Expanded polystyrene and its new modification can be considered rigid - extruded polystyrene. Each of them has very low thermal conductivity and has its own pros and cons.
The main advantage of mineral wool mats is their excellent physical and mechanical properties, thanks to which thermal properties are maintained for a long time. This material is chemically and biologically resistant, non-hygroscopic, absolutely environmentally friendly and resistant to deformation. It has been proven over time that mineral wool practically does not shrink, which eliminates the occurrence of “cold bridges” during operation.
Water repellency of this material prevents moisture from penetrating inside the slab, and its excellent breathability makes it possible to create a comfortable microclimate in the room through natural ventilation. Another undoubted advantage is the fire resistance of mineral wool; according to the fire safety classification, it belongs to the NG group (non-combustible material). In order for the insulation to “work” fully, it must be provided during installation correct styling. The size of the mat should be 10 - 30 mm wider than the cell, this will avoid required clearances and extra gaps, which guarantees minimal heat loss.
What else do you need to know about mineral wool slabs? The thermal insulation properties of a material are determined by its thickness, but if during the installation process it so happens that the insulation is 100 mm, you had to compact it to 80 mm, then it quality characteristics will correspond to its final state, that is, 80 mm. That is why it is so important to maintain the size of the timber, which determines the parameters of the cell for laying the insulation.
In many respects, glass wool is less attractive. Even if you throw everything away difficult moments working with this material, it is still inferior to the previous insulation. The fact is that fiberglass is subject to shrinkage, which over time leads to the appearance of “cold bridges” and heat loss. Not the most in the best possible way The thermal insulation properties are reflected in the relatively high rate of water absorption, which can reach 13–15%.
What can we say about foam plastics? Undoubtedly, it has almost the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, low volumetric weight and a number of other advantages that exceed the parameters mineral wool. However, along with many positive qualities there are a number of significant disadvantages that force developers to abandon this material in favor of others. The rigid structure does not allow the insulation to be installed using the “expanded” technology, which inevitably entails a loose connection in the cells and, as a result, additional heat loss. The absolute airtightness of the material creates the effect of a “thermos”, which is also not a plus. Unscrupulous manufacturers often use low-quality, cheap raw materials for the production of polystyrene foam, which further undermines confidence in this type of insulation. But the most important thing that stops many builders from using polystyrene is its flammability. Moreover, under the influence high temperatures Toxic substances are released that are harmful and dangerous to human health. And this not very unpleasant list ends with the fact that polystyrene foam is a favorite place for rodents to live, and this is not a very comfortable neighborhood to live in.
The amount of heat-insulating material that will be required to insulate a house will largely depend on the calculated thickness and overall dimensions blanks Experts recommend making the required insulating layer in stacks, for example, an estimated thickness of 150 mm; it is advisable to assemble it from three mats of 50 mm each or two mats of 100 and 50 mm in height. This type of insulation is considered more effective because it has additional air layers.
After you make a step-by-step selection of material for the entire structure, similar items are summed up, and as a result you will receive a complete breakdown of costs in cubic meters, pieces, rolls, liters and kilograms. For clarity, you can summarize all the figures in one table; by the way, in this way it will be easier to calculate the upcoming costs in monetary terms. In order not to lose sight of this or that material, sketch out a schematic layer-by-layer structure of the floor, walls, ceilings, and ceilings.
You should have approximately the following list:
main and intermediate racks
sheathing
insulation
overlap of the lower and upper chords
hydro, windproof membrane
waterproofing
Also, do not forget that during construction you will need antiseptic compounds, polyurethane foam, fastening elements (nails, screws, perforated metal corners). Do not forget that when purchasing materials, it is worth adding 10–12% to the calculated volumes, since waste is inevitable in construction. Although some argue that this is the percentage that remains if door and window openings are not taken into account.
