Cherry is a fairly common crop in Russia in general and in middle lane- in particular. This is the oldest variety of cherry. In modern conditions, dozens of varieties have been bred with different size, taste and color of berries, height and spreading of the crown, and timing of fruit ripening.

When choosing seedlings, you need to pay attention to its zoning, since southern varieties will freeze or dry out in colder climates with high snow cover. Therefore, before going to the nursery, you should pay attention to some points:

Frost resistance. The higher it is, the better.
Stunting. Such plants are less likely to freeze and have higher yields.
Late flowering. It allows you to escape from the returning cold.
Self-fertility. Such varieties do not require cross-pollination, therefore, harvesting is guaranteed even when planting one plant.

Taking into account all factors, you can decide on the variety.

And the way

A tree of medium height (4-5 m) of pyramidal shape with a dense crown. Thick shortened petioles with three to four flowers white. Flowering early. Fruits of universal use up to 9 g (considered large) are glossy, burgundy to black in color. Juicy, sweet pulp.

Self-sterile, productive (up to 30 kg) variety, resistant to fungal infections.

Lapins

A variety of Canadian selection with low frost resistance, productive with simultaneous ripening of fruits that do not fall off for a long time. The fruits are large – up to 8 g, transportable.

With enhanced agricultural technology, they reach 13 g. Orange-red color and dense pulp. A variety with great vigor, highly productive, self-fertile, late-ripening. Fruiting begins at the end of July. Universal berries.

Leningradskaya black

The height of the tree usually does not exceed four meters. The crown is spreading. Under good agricultural technology, fruiting can occur in the third year after planting the seedling.

The dark burgundy berries (up to 6 g) do not fall off for a long time, ripen in July, and are picked dry. Used for processing, freezing and fresh.

Summit

The variety is frost-resistant, early-bearing. Berries (10 g) with a wine aftertaste. Transportable. Good fresh and processed. The variety is used for cross-pollination of many types of cherries.

Poetry

Tree up to 3 m with a pyramidal crown shape. Yellow fruits (6 g) with dense creamy pulp. The taste is sweet and sour. Average winter hardiness and drought resistance. The yield is high, the quality of the berries is excellent.

In addition to these varieties, the cherry varieties presented in the table are grown in the middle zone:

Name	Ripening time	Weight	Color	Taste	Tree height	Winter hardiness, productivity
Julia/Julia	mid-early	large, 8 g	Yellow-pink	dessert	average	No
Fatezh	Early July	4 g	Rose red	dessert	average	Yes
Bryansk pink	End of July	4-5 g	pink-mottled	sweet	average	winter-hardy, early-fruiting
Valery Chkalov	Early July	9 g	raspberry	excellent dessert	medium height	winter-hardy, early fruiting, very productive
Veda	July	4-5 g	dark red	the pulp is dense, sweet	low-growing (2.5 m), spreading crown, rounded	Yes
Olenka	early	Up to 10 g	red to black	dessert	stunted	increased
In memory of Chernyshevsky	June	4-5 g	Red to black	sweet and sour	tall	winter-hardy
Revna	mid-late	5 g	Bordeaux	sweet	Medium height	winter-hardy
Motherland	June July	6 g	Bordeaux	sweetish	Medium height	very winter hardy
Rossoshanskaya Gold	June July	6 g	yellow	sweet with honey aftertaste	low-growing	Yes

Video review of fruitful cherry varieties

When to plant cherries

Spring planting is practiced in Siberian regions with a sharply continental climate - short summers and harsh, long winters. In the middle zone, where the climate is temperate, more humid and warm, cherry seedlings are planted in the fall - in September-October.

This period is considered the most optimal, since the gardener’s task is to allow the seedling to take root well and go into the winter before the growing season (growth and development) begins. If the deadline for autumn planting is missed, then you have to wait for spring. During this period, seedlings are buried in a shallow trench with a slope of 45 degrees until warm days. In winter, to prevent them from freezing, you need to periodically throw snow on them, and sunburn cover with plywood, boards, non-woven material. Polyethylene cannot be used to avoid spring damping.

If it is necessary to preserve several shoots, they are tied together in 4-5 pieces and placed in a groove with their upper part to the south, with their roots in the deeper part, to the north.

Advantages of autumn planting cherries in the middle zone:

During this period, there is no need for frequent watering, since there is enough rain.
Seedlings are sold fresh, recently dug up. They still retain young roots and leaves that have not dried out, by which one can determine the condition of the seedling, the presence or absence of infections.
Large selection and relative cheapness.

And finally, in the fall the gardener has more free time than in the spring.

How to choose and plant cherries correctly

Before purchasing, you need to decide in advance whether this plant will be rooted or on a rootstock. If the second option, then when purchasing, you need to find the grafting site - it has a pronounced thickening just above the root collar.

In addition, the tree must have a main conductor, which will subsequently become the main trunk, and pruning will be done with an eye on it. If there is no central conductor, then the result will be a highly branched plant with a high risk of breaking the crown during the fruiting period.

The root system should be 15 cm long, moist and without obvious damage. It is better to choose annual or biennial seedlings.

Immediately before planting, the plant is inspected again to identify any shortcomings and:

remove “soaked” roots;
trim very long root ends;
cut off those roots that do not fit into the planting hole;
tear off remaining foliage.

Under no circumstances should branches be cut, unless they are broken during transportation.

If there are dried roots, before planting they are placed in water for several hours (from 2 to 10) to become saturated with moisture.

When the seedlings are dealt with, you need to determine a favorable place for planting cherries. This should be a well-lit area, protected from the north wind.

Cherry does not “like” low-lying areas with high groundwater levels, clayey and acidic peat soil.

It “feels” best on loams and sandy loams with good aeration.

The planting site is carefully dug up, weeds removed, and leveled with a rake. Planting pits
are planned at a distance of 4-5 meters from each other. Their diameter and depth are 80-90 cm. When the cherry orchard is planned and the holes are ready, the following is added to them:

humus - 3 buckets;
ash – 1 l;
superphosphate – 0.2 kg;
potash fertilizers – 0.1 kg.

In addition, if the soil is clayey, a bucket of sand is poured into the hole; if the soil is sandy, a bucket of clay is poured into the hole. Mix everything with a shovel and form a small mound in the center for convenient placement of the roots.

Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied during autumn planting to avoid premature growth.

You can start planting. First, a support peg is stuck into the hole, then the seedling is placed strictly vertically and the roots are carefully straightened along the slopes of the mound. It is necessary to ensure that the root collar and place the scion (if any) was 3 cm above the ground surface. The roots are sprinkled with soil, periodically shaking the tree. When the process is half completed, a bucket of water is poured into the hole and planting is completed. The earth around is carefully compacted.

Then, they tie the plant to a support and, stepping 30 cm around the circumference from the trunk, make a small depression into which another bucket of water is poured. It is advisable to mulch the planting site with rotted sawdust or compost. If the soil settles after a few days, it should be added to the general level.

How to care for cherries

Caring for cherries after planting is practically not required:

The main thing is to protect it from rodents, frostbite, damping off and sunburn. To do this, the trunk should be whitened, wrapped in burlap and toxic chemicals should be spread out. In cold winters, it is better to add snow.
In the spring, when the snow melts, the trunk and skeletal branches are whitened to reflect the sun's rays and to prevent disease.
During the growing season, cherries require watering 1-2 times a month: young ones require 2 buckets, adults – 5-6 buckets of water.
For the first 2-3 years, only nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring - they stimulate the growth of branches and green mass.
Starting from the 4th year, the full mineral complex is added.

The soil under the trees can be mulched, turfed, or kept fallow.

Pruning and shaping cherries

One of the mandatory procedures for caring for cherries is pruning and shaping the tree. It allows you to achieve regular abundant harvests. Improper implementation of these measures inevitably leads to weakening and death of the plant.

Spring pruning of skeletal branches before the start of sap flow is preferable, since they are clearly visible, and with the onset of a warm period, the risk of freezing disappears. The wounds heal quickly.

For the middle zone, the optimal time for the procedure is the end of March-beginning of April. In the autumn, after leaf fall and until October, sanitary pruning is carried out and the crown is thinned out.

Young seedlings begin to form from the first year when they reach 50-55 cm. If the trees have not yet grown to this height, then pruning is postponed until next year. So:

It is not allowed to remove skeletal branches if they have active buds.

If all agrotechnical practices are followed and with proper formation, the cherry tree will delight you with its flowering and abundant harvests from year to year.

There is an opinion that the range fruit plants in temperate climates it is limited - apple, plum, cherry... “The rest is not suitable for our climate!” Many will say, looking skeptically at the seedlings of southern crops.

But despite everything, southerners are increasingly settling in our gardens, showing miracles of winter hardiness and producing excellent harvests. Take cherries for example!

They started planting cherries in our region only recently, but their popularity is growing rapidly. Indeed, in terms of winter hardiness, modern varieties are almost as good as cherries, they are high-yielding and are distinguished by excellent fruit quality.

And one more thing: cherries are almost not affected by such dangerous fungal diseases as moniliosis and coccomycosis, to which cherries are so susceptible.

What is needed to grow cherries in the middle zone

Cherries need a place protected from strong winds and full light throughout the day. Areas located in lowlands, where

Cold air accumulates, as well as places with high groundwater levels. Cherry does not grow well in acidic soils, the optimal acidity is pH = 6.5 - 7. Therefore, before planting, and then every few years, liming is carried out. In dry years, watering is necessary.

Where and how to plant Cherries are planted in the spring as one- or two-year-old seedlings. Planting material purchased in the fall is placed in a trench, where the seedlings are stored under thick snow until spring.

What to consider when growing cherries

The distance between cherry seedlings should be at least 4 m.

The vast majority of cherry varieties are self-sterile, so it is necessary to plant two different varieties. The best pollinators are indicated in the variety description.

Varieties that pollinate each other well bloom synchronously, although the ripening time may differ significantly.

Cherries and cherries do not pollinate each other.

In the middle zone, cherries with a height of 2 - 4 m are considered weak-growing, cherries with a height of 4.1 - 6 m and vigorous - 6.1 - 8 m are considered to be medium-growing.

Early-ripening cherry varieties ripen at the end of June, mid-ripening ones - in mid-July, late-ripening ones - at the beginning of August.

Sweet cherries are sensitive to damage to the root system. Buy seedlings only from good roots and plant immediately in a permanent place.

A hole with a diameter of 70–80 cm and a depth of 50–60 cm is prepared for planting. The soil extracted from the bottom is not used for planting, and the top cultivated layer is mixed with 10 - 15 kg of rotted manure or compost, 300 g wood ash, mix thoroughly and use to fill the hole. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are poured onto the bottom in accordance with the instructions on the packaging. The pit is filled with the prepared substrate and spilled. After 3-4 weeks, when the soil has settled well, the seedlings are planted, preventing the root collar from deepening. The trees are watered and tied to supports.

Caring for cherries is no more difficult than caring for an apple tree.

Young plants are regularly watered, tree trunks are loosened, and diseases and pests are controlled. With proper planting, the first 3-4 years require only spring fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizer. In the future, fertilize like others fruit trees. Cherries branch weakly, forming long, ankle-bearing branches. To obtain a compact crown, the growth of young trees is shortened annually. Mature cherries are pruned very sparingly, mainly by thinning out the crown. Sweet cherries are more durable than cherries. They begin to bear fruit at 4-5 years, and after about another 5 years they enter into full fruiting, which can last up to 20 years. If flower buds will not freeze in the winter and will not be subject to frost in the spring, then fruiting is annual.

The key to success is choosing the right cherry varieties

Seedlings brought from the south cannot survive our winters, and in the summer we don’t have enough heat. The first winter-hardy varieties were obtained in Leningrad in the middle of the last century. Some of them (‘Leningradskaya black’, ‘Leningradskaya pink’, ‘Leningradskaya yellow’, etc.) are still widespread in the gardens of the Non-Black Earth Region.

Later, in Bryansk, varieties were obtained with greater winter hardiness and with fruits in taste that were not much inferior to real southerners.

The best of them are ‘Bryanskaya pink’, ‘Iput’, ‘Ovstuzhenka’, ‘Revna’. The Moscow varieties ‘Fatezh’ and ‘Chermashnaya’ are also interesting. ‘Bryansk pink’. The fruits are pink, medium size (4 g), good taste. The variety is late-ripening, self-sterile. Pollinators ‘Iput’, ‘Revna’, ‘Leningradskaya Chernaya’. Resistant to fungal diseases. Included in the State Register for the Central Region.

‘Gronkavaya’. The fruits are dark red, weighing 4.5 g, sweet. The variety is early ripening, self-sterile. Pollinators ‘Revna’, ‘Tyutchevka’. Weakly affected by pests and diseases. Included in the State Register for the Central Region. ‘Iput’. The fruits are almost black, large (5.2 g), of good taste. The variety is early ripening, self-sterile. Pollinators ‘Revna’, ‘Tyutchevka’, ‘Raditsa’, ‘Bryanskaya pink’. Resistant to fungal diseases. For the central and southern regions of the Non-Black Earth Region.

‘Leningrad pink’. The fruits are pink with a red blush, weighing 3.2 g, good taste. The variety is mid-season, self-sterile. Pollinators ‘Leningradskaya red’, ‘Red dense’. For the northwestern regions. ‘Leningradskaya black’. The fruits are almost black, weighing 3.5 g, sweet. Late ripening variety. Pollinators ‘Leningradskaya yellow’, ‘Leningradskaya pink’, ‘Iput’, ‘Revna’. For the northwestern regions.

'Gift of Ryazan'. The fruits are yellow with a red blush, very large (7g), tasty, sweet. The variety is mid-season, self-fertile. Resistance to pests and diseases is high. Included in the State Register for the Central Region.

'Raditsa'. The fruits are dark red, large, very good taste. The variety is very early date maturing, self-sterile. Pollinators ‘Revna’, ‘Iput’, ‘Tyutchevka’. Resistant to coccomycosis. For the southern regions of the Non-Black Earth Region.

Revna. Mid-late ripening. The fruits are almost black, large (4.7 g), very good taste. The best pollinators are ‘Ovstuzhenka’, ‘Iput’, ‘Tyutchevka’, ‘Raditsa’. Resistant to fungal diseases. For the central and southern regions of the Non-Black Earth Region.

Rechitsa. The fruits are dark red, large, of good taste. The variety is mid-ripe, self-sterile. Pollinators ‘Iput’, ‘Ovstuzhenka’. Resistant to coccomycosis. Included in the State Register for the Central Region.

‘Pink pearls’. The fruits are orange with a red blush, large, of excellent taste. The variety is mid-season, self-sterile, pollinators are ‘Michurinka’, ‘Michurinskaya late’. Resistant to diseases.

‘Tyutchevka’. Mid-late ripening. The fruits are dark red, very large (up to 7 g), tasty, sweet. Pollinators ‘Iput’, ‘Revna’, ‘Ovstuzhenka’, ‘Raditsa’. Disease resistance is high. For the southern regions of the Non-Black Earth Region.

‘Fatezh’. The fruits are pink with a red blush, medium size, very good taste. The variety is mid-season, self-sterile. Pollinators ‘Chermashnaya’, ‘Krymskaya’. Resistant to diseases. For the central and southern regions of the Non-Black Earth Region.

‘Chermashnaya’. The fruits are yellow, weighing 4.5 g, excellent taste. The variety is very early ripening, self-sterile. Pollinators ‘Fatezh’, ‘Krymskaya’. Resistant to diseases. For the central and southern regions of the Non-Black Earth Region.

Gone are the days when cherries were grown only in the southern regions. Now varieties have been developed that allow residents of the Moscow region and even the Leningrad region to enjoy berries from their garden.

Read about.

Choosing cherry varieties

When solving this important issue, it is necessary to pay attention to the flowering period of the tree and the fact that many varieties are self-sterile. That is, for good fruit setting, it is necessary to plant not one, but at least 2 trees of different varieties that would bloom at the same time. A photo will help you see what this beautiful tree looks like, although who hasn’t seen it in person...

In the southern regions it becomes warm early, so blooming trees They practically never get frostbitten there. In cooler areas, early ripening varieties may be susceptible to this problem as cherries bloom in the spring. But, if you want to taste the berries as early as possible, then, during frosts, you can cover the cherry trees with non-woven material, make smoke fires near them, etc.

Homestead yellow. Fruitful, winter-hardy cherry. The fruits have a sweet and sour taste. The variety is self-fertile.
Orlovskaya amber. Winter hardiness is average, the variety has good yield, and is resistant to coccomycosis. The average weight of tasty, large yellow-pink fruits is 5.5 g.
Iput has excellent winter hardiness, is resistant to coccomycosis, and is partially self-fertile. The fruits weigh 6–9 g, dark red, almost black in color. Growing Iput cherries is preferred by many gardeners.
Raditsa. The fruits ripen very early. The variety is winter-hardy, high-yielding. To obtain fruits that are dark red in color, it is necessary to plant a pollinating variety nearby, since this variety is self-sterile. The tree is low-growing and has a compact crown.
Chermashnaya has high winter hardiness. Fruits weighing up to four and a half grams are yellow in color. The berries are sweet and juicy. The variety is self-sterile and has good resistance to fungal diseases.
The trees of the Ovstuzhenka cherry variety are low, with a spherical dense crown. The fruits weigh an average of 5 grams and are dark red in color. The variety is winter-hardy and productive.

Mid-season cherry varieties:

Fatezh. Winter-hardy, high-yielding variety. The tree is medium-sized, self-sterile, with a spherical-spreading, drooping crown. The fruits are pink-red and shiny. The taste is sweet and sour.
Pobeda is a productive variety that is resistant to fungal diseases. Winter hardiness is good. The fruits are large, excellent taste, red in color.
The cherry variety Revna is winter-hardy, partially self-fertile, and has excellent resistance to coccomycosis. The fruits have a sweet taste, dark red, almost black, and do not crack when ripe.

Late ripening cherries, varieties:

Tyutchevka is winter-hardy, resistant to moniliosis. The tree is medium-tall with a spherical, semi-spreading crown. The fruits are dark red in color, large, weigh 5.5–6 g, and have excellent taste.
Revna is a partially self-fertile variety, highly resistant to coccomycosis. The tree is pyramid-shaped and medium-sized. The fruits are almost black in color - dark burgundy, and have an excellent taste.
Bryansk pink is one of the latest varieties. Resistant to diseases. In the fifth year it begins to bear fruit. The tree grows to medium size. Fruit Pink colour outside and light yellow inside, do not crack.

Planting cherries

Like many fruit trees, cherries can be planted in autumn and spring. Each term has its advantages and slight disadvantages. In the spring, you need to have time to plant a cherry seedling before the heat sets in. In the middle zone it is the end of April. That is, the period is short. But in the fall it lasts longer. At this time, cherries are planted from the beginning of September to the end of October. It is necessary that the seedling has time to take root before the onset of frost, then it will overwinter better.
It is important to choose the most optimal place in the garden. Since the cherry tree is a guest that came to us from the south, it is necessary to plant it where it will be warm. You need to choose a place that is not exposed to cold northern winds. It is better to place the seedling on the south side from others garden trees. Also, on the north side, the tree can be covered by the wall of a building or fence. The place for growing cherries should be well warmed by the sun; shadows from other trees should not fall on it.

In the lowlands the tree will feel uncomfortable. Usually there is a high groundwater level, so the roots of the tree will become damp, and the tree itself may die.

Once you have decided on the location, you need to consider the timing of planting cherries. Even winter-hardy varieties cannot be planted if the air temperature is below 0°C. At the same time, when planting in spring, it is necessary to carry out work before the buds swell. That's why autumn planting the most optimal. However, if you purchased a young seedling with a closed root system, then it can be planted almost at any time - from the end of April to the end of October, but it is better to do this when there is no extreme heat, then the cherry will take root better.

The hole for the seedling is dug in advance, this will allow the soil to settle. It is made large - with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of 70 cm. 2-3 buckets of well-ripened compost, humus, or a combination of these organic fertilizers are poured here. Minerals also need to be added. Pour 200 g of double superphosphate and 150 g of potassium sulfate into the hole. Mix mineral fertilizers with organic ones, shape the humus and compost into a mound. Place the seedling on it, straightening the roots. Drive a peg nearby and tie a tree to it.

Fill the hole with fertile turf soil. Carefully water the cherry seedling with 2-3 buckets of water, then mulch trunk circle peat. Press this area with your foot, placing the sole perpendicular to the seedling - with the toe towards it. Make sure that the root collar is at soil level.

This completes the planting of cherries. Of course, it is better to carry it out in cloudy weather; if the morning after planting it is hot, cover the seedling with non-woven material. If you are planting several trees, maintain a distance of 3 m between them.

Formative pruning of cherries

It is necessary to trim off excess branches and shape the tree annually, since cherries grow rapidly. They only do this in early spring, while the buds have not yet bloomed.

Until the tree begins to bear fruit, its annual shoots are shortened annually by 1/5 of their height. When the cherry tree enters the fruiting stage, shortening pruning is stopped. Only branches that grow incorrectly are cut out - directed towards the crown, half of the shoot is removed if two branches form an angle of less than 50°. It is necessary to cut out diseased, dry branches.

To increase the yield, the following technique is used: the sharply growing branches are bent so that they are at an angle of 90° from the trunk. To do this, weights are hung on the branches of a young tree or the ends of the branches are tied to pegs driven into the ground.

Cherry care

It is imperative to weed the ground under the crown, since cherries do not like weeds. Gradually increase the diameter of the trunk circle. In the second year it should be 1 meter, after another 3 years 150 cm. This entire area should be cleared of weeds.

Cherries are watered and then fed three times a season. This should be done this way: first loosen the soil around the tree trunk, while simultaneously choosing weeds. Then, in several steps, water the tree with water heated in the sun, then water it with a nutrient solution.

IN initial period After bud break, dissolve 5-8 g of urea in 10 liters of water and water the tree with this fertilizer. You can see this feeding organic, diluting 800 g of manure in 10 liters. water. Make sure that the fertilizer does not get on the root collar, otherwise it may rot.

Next they make 2 mineral supplements cherry - the first - during the budding period, the second - at the beginning of fruit set. For this fertilizer, dilute 1 glass of ash and 30 g of double superphosphate in 10 liters. water.

For better pollination, you can spray the flowers with a sweet solution, placing 1 tbsp. l. liquid honey in 1 liter. water. Bees will flock to the smell, and the harvest will be plentiful.

Reliable varieties

Fatezh

Chermashnaya

Leningradskaya black

Sinyavskaya

Tyutchevka

And the way

Tree size

Good placement.

Strengthen the trunk.

growing cherries

Cherries growing cherries

Fig.1 Cherry blossoms

2. Planting cherries

The best time for planting cherries

3. Cherry feeding

The first years after planting cherries

Carry out crown formation cherries

planting cherries.

Choosing a cherry seedling

Choosing a landing site

Soil preparation

Watering and weeding

Pollination

Preparing cherries for wintering

Autumn whitewashing of cherries

Young seedlings need shelter. Don't wrap them around artificial materials(lutrasil, spunbond). It is better to give preference to spruce branches or burlap, under which the trees breathe in winter and will not rot.

Even inexperienced gardeners can grow cherries in central Russia and other regions. By choosing the right seedling and planting site, as well as following simple care rules, you can harvest an excellent harvest of juicy and sweet berries every year.

Categories:// from 09/10/2019

10 Sep

How to grow cherries in central Russia

Once upon a time, these sweet fruits were the privilege of southerners. But nowadays, summer residents of Central Russia can also grow cherries.

IN last years the dreams of many summer residents of Central Russia about their own cherries are becoming a reality: after all, winter-resistant varieties of cherries have already been bred and successfully “tested”, and agricultural technology has been worked out.

Reliable varieties

In the Moscow region, the Fatezh, Sinyavskaya and Chermashnaya varieties bred in VSTISP (Moscow) proved to be the most persistent, grateful and attractive to gardeners. Iput, Tyutchevka, Revna, obtained at the Lupine Research Institute (Bryansk), are also good. Leningradskaya black, Mulatka, Teremoshka, and Severnaya also show good winter hardiness in our conditions.

Fatezh- the most winter-hardy cherry variety. Thanks to this remarkable quality, it bears fruit in all years favorable for cherry harvest. It produces medium-sized amber-pink fruits (up to 4.5 g), very tasty, with sweet, juicy cartilaginous pulp.

It quickly begins to bear fruit and produces a high yield in the presence of pollinators (any simultaneously flowering cherry varieties will do). The trees are quite compact, with a spreading crown, and fit well into the landscape of even small summer cottages.

Chermashnaya- the earliest ripening variety, ripens in the Moscow region already on June 15–20. The fruits are bright yellow, with juicy melting pulp, and taste like sweet grapes.

Plants with increased winter hardiness are resistant to fungal diseases. Fruits well only when pollinated suitable varieties(Fatezh, Iput). Birds love this variety: a week before ripening, the trees must be covered with fine mesh.

Leningradskaya black- winter-hardy variety of medium ripening period. Needs a pollinator. The fruits are dark cherry, almost black. The pulp is dark, tender, sweet, with slight acidity and noticeable bitterness, with a pleasant taste.

A good variety for growing in the south of the Non-Black Earth Region and the north of the Central Black Earth Zone. The variety is winter-hardy, weakly affected by diseases and pests. The tree is medium-sized, productive.

Sinyavskaya- most large-fruited variety Moscow selection. The fruits are dark red, with colored juice, with a small seed, and a sweet, rich taste. In terms of taste and impressive fruit size, the variety is close to southern cherries.

Less winter-hardy than previous varieties, but has a high regenerative ability. IN favorable years without severe winter frosts and spring frosts and in the presence of pollinators, it shows very high yields - up to 30 kg per tree. Due to its vigorous growth, annual pruning and the formation of a compact crown are very important for this variety.

Tyutchevka- one of the most winter-hardy varieties Bryansk selection. The fruits are quite large, dark red, almost black when fully ripe, with a sweet dessert taste, in some years with a slight bitterness. In the conditions of the Moscow region it shows good stable yield - 10–15 kg per tree from the 5th year after planting. Trees of this variety are unusually beautiful during the flowering period and when the fruits ripen.

And the way- an early variety, ripens in the Moscow region in the third decade of June. The fruits are dark red, quite large, with dense pulp of sweet taste. As with other early varieties, timely protection of the crop from birds is necessary. Heavy rains during ripening can cause massive cracking of the fruit.

Revna is a reliable variety of medium-late ripening. The fruits are medium size, dark red, with colored juice, pleasant sweet taste. Valued for its high yield and taste. Due to its late ripening, this variety suffers less than others from birds, but can be damaged by the cherry fly.

Northern cherries have the same sweet and tasty fruits as the southern ones, but they are somewhat smaller and ripen later than the southern ones. The most early varieties Cherries near Moscow (Chermashnaya and Iput) begin to ripen in mid-June.

You can enjoy them until the end of June, and in early July they are replaced by the Sinyavskaya, Leningradskaya Chernaya and Fatezh varieties. The fruits of the Revna and Tyutchevka varieties ripen simultaneously with mid-ripening cherry varieties.

Tree size

Many potential owners are concerned that the cherry will grow very tall tree. Indeed, in the south it can grow up to 10 m and even more. But in the conditions of the Moscow region, without pruning, cherry trees can grow up to 5–6 m. Which is also a lot - the harvest from such giants is available only to birds.

If you want small-sized cherries, ask for seedlings on weak-growing clonal rootstocks LTs52 or VSL2. Next, you will have to systematically prune and form a compact crown - it is easier to harvest from trees up to 2.5–3 m high and protect it from birds.

Four conditions for growing cherries

Sweet cherries in Central Russia require more careful attention from gardeners than traditional fruit crops. To “make friends” with her, you need to fulfill 4 important conditions.

Choose the right variety and rootstock. In the garden you need to plant several mutually pollinating plants and at the same time flowering varieties(at least 2-3), because it is very important that the flowers are pollinated. For successful overwintering and abundant fruiting, you need to select seedlings of recommended varieties with an increased reserve of winter hardiness, grafted onto frost-resistant clonal rootstocks.

Cherry trees grafted on clonal Izmailovsky rootstock grow well and bear fruit regularly. They do not sprout, thus do not clog the site, and their lifespan is at least 20 years.

Good placement. It is very important to choose the right place for planting: it should be located at the top of a gentle slope in a southern or western direction. There should be enough sun and protection from strong winds.

Strengthen the trunk. When planting, be sure to drive a strong stake into the soil and tie the seedling to it. In the first years, the above-ground part of the cherry tree grows very quickly, and root system can't keep up with her.

In the second half of summer, long shoots with large leaves enhance the windiness of young trees. Without additional strengthening, the plants bend and, with strong gusts of wind, can break at the surface of the soil (a perfectly fused grafting site does not prevent this from happening). If the planting site is poorly protected from the winds, then it is advisable to preserve the supports until the trees are 4-6 years old.

Protect from winter sunburn. To protect it from the winter sun, the trunk will have to be whitened or wrapped with white non-woven material before wintering.

Cherry is considered a fairly demanding plant in terms of light and heat. Fears cold air and favors sunny places at higher elevations. The site must be protected from northeastern and northern winds. The best place For growing cherries there will be a south and southwest side of the buildings. She will also feel comfortable among mature trees.

Cherries prefers warm sandy loam fertile soils and grows very poorly on peat bog, heavy loamy, gley soils. It is worth noting that for growing cherries completely unsuitable acidic soils. Neutral, slightly alkaline (pH 7-7.3) and slightly acidic are much more suitable for her. Cherry does not tolerate stagnation of water, but at the same time it loves a large amount of moisture. Does not survive well in the presence of close groundwater.

1. Cherry varieties most suitable for central Russia

Breeders have created a fairly large number of cherry varieties that grow well and bear fruit in the middle zone. It includes the Moscow, Bryansk, Kaluga, Ryazan, Smolensk, Tula, Vladimir and Ivanovo regions.

1.1 Early ripening varieties of cherries:

Iput is a self-sterile variety whose pollinators are Revna, Raditsa, Bryanskaya rozovaya and Tyutchivka. It has high winter hardiness of flower buds. The fruits are very sweet and juicy and almost black in color. Their weight reaches almost 10 grams.

Raditsa. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 5.8 grams.

Sadko. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and rarely crack, reaching a weight of up to 8 grams. It has a dark red color.

1.2 Mid-early and mid-ripening varieties of cherries:

Revna. Its pollinators are Iput, Raditsa and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 7.8 grams.

Tyutchivka. Its pollinators are Iput, Raditsa, Revna and Ovstuzhenka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 5.4 grams. In the years since high humidity fruits may crack.

Astakhov's favorite. Its pollinators are Iput, Raditsa and Tyutchivka. It is also considered partially self-fertile. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing more than 5 grams.

1.3 Late-ripening varieties of cherries:

Lena. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and obtusely heart-shaped, dark red in color, weighing up to 8 grams.

Bryanochka. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 7 grams.

Bryansk pink. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, pink in color, weighing up to 5 grams.

All varieties begin to bear fruit 3-5 years after planting. They are also winter-hardy and resistant to coccomycosis and some other fungal diseases. For full fruiting, it is necessary to have at least 3 varieties of cherries in one area.

Fig.1 Cherry blossoms

2. Planting cherries

The best time for planting cherries It is early spring, until the buds open. Thanks to this, the seedling will have time to take root well and gain vitality to survive the first winter.

The planting hole should be dug 10-12 days before planting in the spring or prepared in the fall. The optimal depth is 60-75 cm, and the width is 70-80 cm. The dug-out fertile soil layer is mixed with humus and superphosphate (200 g) and potassium sulfate (100 g) are added to it. The hole is then filled with this mixture.

It is very important to remember that cherries do not tolerate deepening of the root collar. Therefore, when planting, it is worth raising it by 3-4 centimeters, because in the near future the soil will settle and the root collar will deepen a little.

After planting, you need to form a moat around the cherry seedling and water it generously with a bucket of water. It is advisable to re-water after a week.

Fig. 2 How to properly deepen the root collar of cherries

3. Cherry feeding

The first years after planting cherries there is no need to apply fertilizer, since everything necessary was placed in the hole along with the soil. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizing begins in the 3rd year after planting. Superphosphate (40-60 g/m2) and potassium chloride (20-30 grams) are added once every 3 years when digging the trunk circle no later than mid-September.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied every spring, starting from the 3rd year after planting cherries. These include ammonium nitrate (20 g/m2) or urea (15 g/m2). You can learn more about mineral fertilizers here.

Organic matter should be added once every 2 years, 3-4 kg per m2. This is best done in the spring when loosening the tree trunk circle. If you apply these fertilizers later, the growth of new shoots may stop, and they will not have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather.

Also, after fruiting, you can sow green manure plants around the tree trunk, which, together with the soil, will be dug up in the spring and, thus, all the necessary substances will begin to nourish the tree much earlier, especially considering the fact that they will begin to overheat under the snow. To learn more interesting information about green manure plants, see this article.

4. Pruning cherries and crown formation

Carry out crown formation cherries It is advisable in early spring, before the buds swell. At the same time, one should not forget about treating all cuts with garden varnish. This must be done in order to prevent gum growth, which can lead to infection with various kinds of diseases and even death of the tree. Also, don’t forget about whitewashing the tree trunk in spring, and you can find out how to do it correctly here.

The cherry tree has a natural crown shape - from pyramidal to round, but when pruned it is most often made into a sparsely tiered crown with a trunk height of 60 to 80 centimeters. The first pruning of shoots should be carried out a year after planting cherries.

During this period, a crown of 5-6 skeletal branches (first order) is formed. In the first tier, 3 branches are left, 2 of which can be placed adjacent, and the third is 20-25 centimeters higher than the first two.

In the third year, it is advisable to lay the second tier of skeletal branches at a distance of at least 60 cm from the upper branch of the first tier. In the same year, 2 second-order branches should be formed on each first-order shoot. To form second-order branches, it is necessary to shorten the first-order branches by approximately 20 centimeters after their length reaches 70 centimeters. Second-order branches are located at a distance of at least 50 centimeters from the trunk and from each other.

The third tier is usually formed from a single shoot at a distance of at least 30 centimeters from the second tier. In this case, it is recommended to cut the central conductor above the branch of the third tier no earlier than a year after its formation.

Cherries are valued by gardeners for their high yield and unsurpassed taste of the berries. Many people consider this crop to be too demanding in terms of growing conditions, but this is a misconception. In order for cherries to develop well and bear fruit abundantly, the planting and care of which are covered in detail in our material, you only need to choose the right variety, protect it from frost and ensure timely watering and fertilization.

Sweet cherry is the closest relative of the sour cherry. Thanks to new, cold-resistant varieties, it is possible to grow cherries in central Russia and northern regions, despite the southern origin of the crop.

Choosing a cherry seedling

To plant on the site, you should select several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination. In the middle zone and the Moscow region, the following varieties produce good harvests: Cheremashnaya, Krymskaya, Iput, Bryansk pink, Fatezh, Tyutchevka.

Externally, cherry seedlings are very similar to cherries, but upon closer inspection, it is not difficult to distinguish them:

Cherry trees are taller with erect branches;
The bark of cherry seedlings is brown with a reddish tint, while the bark of cherry seedlings is gray-brown.

Growing cherries will be successful if the seedling for planting is chosen correctly. His age should not exceed three years (optimally two years). The recommended height of the purchased seedling is at least 80 cm, and it has 3-4 strong shoots. There must be a grafting site on the trunk, which indicates the varietal identity of the seedling. Bark healthy plant smooth, without signs of disease or freezing.

Cherry seedlings from the nursery prepared for transplanting

The root system of cherry planting material is well developed and has 3-4 branches 20 cm long. Specimens with dried, rotten or frozen roots should not be purchased - they are not viable. If the root system of the seedling is very dry—a light brown core is visible when cut—the seedling can be revived. To do this, the roots are placed in a container with water for a day.

Choosing a location and planting cherries

Improper planting of cherries can lead to the death of the seedling, so this stage must be approached responsibly.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry prefers areas on the south or southwest side, not blown by north winds. It is allowed to plant trees near the southern walls of the house and on gentle slopes.

Cherries bear fruit well in a sunny area on the south side

This fruit crop does not tolerate stagnation of moisture, even short-term. Planting cherries in central Russia should be carried out in areas with deep groundwater. Otherwise, soaking the roots will lead to a delay in the development of the tree, and subsequently to its death.

Soil preparation

Cherries develop and bear fruit well on fertile loams and sandy loams with neutral acidity. The soil should be well aerated and saturated with moisture. Peat bogs, deep sandstones and heavy clay soils Not suitable for growing cherries.

It is necessary to prepare the area where you plan to plant the tree in advance. The site is dug up in the fall, adding organic matter (manure or compost) and mineral fertilizers (superphosphate and sodium sulfate). If you need to reduce the pH level of the soil, add about 500 g of lime or chalk.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Sweet cherries take root and develop well, the cultivation and care of which are planned in advance, and the rules and planting dates are followed. In the southern regions, planting is done in the fall and they have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, transplantation should be postponed until spring. Optimal timing spring planting in open ground - late April, before the buds swell.

When planting a cherry orchard, a distance of at least 3 meters must be maintained between plants. A hole for planting is dug two weeks before planting so that the soil is sufficiently settled. The fertile layer of surface soil is tilted in one direction, and the deep layer in the other. The size of the hole should ensure free placement of the root system in it - a depth of approximately 60 cm and a width of 60-100 cm. It is not recommended to add nitrogen-containing fertilizers and lime to the planting hole, as they can cause burns to the roots.

Preparation landing pit for cherries

At the bottom of the planting hole, a mound of fertile soil is formed, on which the seedling is placed. The root neck of the cherry tree should not be deepened. It should be at ground level or slightly higher. After planting, you need to water the tree abundantly and mulch the tree trunk.

Cherry - care after planting and before harvesting

Caring for cherries in the first year of planting does not take much effort. It is enough to water the plant in a timely manner and remove weeds in the tree trunk circle. In the future, the tree needs additional care.

Watering and weeding

Watering an adult tree is carried out three times a season, adding 20-30 liters of water. In dry summers, the amount of watering can be increased. You should avoid excess moisture, as cherry roots are prone to rotting. The growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle is unacceptable, so they are regularly removed, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Pollination

For fruiting, you need to ensure good pollination of the cherry during flowering. Cherries of other varieties or cherries will become cross pollinators. To attract bees, cherry flowers can be irrigated with honey or sugar dissolved in water.

It is recommended to grow several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application organic fertilizers which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers(superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

In the year of planting, you need to shorten the side branches to 40 cm. The intensive growth of cherry shoots needs to be restrained. To do this, formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

Cherry trees are pruned in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form a tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring they carry out sanitary pruning, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Cherries begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The ripening period of berries may vary depending on the variety. Berry picking often occurs in June and July. Berries with stalks are picked in dry weather.

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. To deter them, you can buy special nets for fruit trees; summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects to trees. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Protecting cherry fruits from birds using old computer disks

Caring for cherries after harvest is not difficult. It is necessary to monitor the health of the tree and regularly clean the tree trunk from fallen plant debris. During this period, the amount and rate of watering can be reduced.

Diseases and pests of cherries, and their control

To protect cherries, early spring (during bud swelling) spraying with a urea solution is used as a preventative measure. Prepare a solution from 10 liters of water and 500-600 g of urea. They treat not only the branches, but also the soil in the tree trunk circle, thereby destroying the insects wintering there.

To combat fungi and moss, treat the trunk and crown with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate before sap flow begins. Such treatment is sufficient once every few years.

Cherry affected by clasterosporiosis

To combat the main pests: sawfly, mites, aphids, they are treated with Karbofos, Askarin, Fitoverm, Novaktion. Spray the trees during the period of bud opening and bouquet separation. During the same period, prevention of clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and other diseases is carried out with a 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

After flowering, prevention of flying pests begins. To do this, spray with Karbofos or Novaktion. The last treatment should be carried out no later than 20 days before the crop ripens.

Preparing cherries for wintering

Mature cherries, planted and cared for according to the rules, tolerate winter well without shelter. It is enough to whiten the base of the trunk and skeletal branches, add 150 g of superphosphate to the soil in September, and mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Also in the fall it is necessary to carry out abundant saturating watering.