An oven for baking homemade bread is often built under a canopy on the street, but, if desired, it can also be built in the house by connecting it to a common smoke exhaust duct.

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She has small sizes, is inferior in functionality to a traditional Russian oven, but the warm and fragrant bread from it is much tastier than from an electric bread maker or gas-powered oven. And, if you also make the firebox door transparent from fire-resistant glass, you will be able to observe the fire in the hearth without fearing for the safety of your home and your family.

About the future design

The design of the oven for baking bread consists of the following parts:

hearth (bottom or floor of the stove);
vault (dome);
entrance arch;
chimney.

The device is installed on a special stand, which in turn rests on foundation slab. The chimney pipe is located at the front of the structure. This position of the chimney helps to simultaneously heat the bread during baking from all sides.

This is explained by the fact that, under the influence of draft, the flames rise to the arch of the dome, envelop and heat the entire inner surface stoves.

Photo of a wood-burning oven for bread

Unlike a Russian stove, this device has a less thick layer of masonry (12 cm), so it heats up faster. Bread can be baked within 45 - 60 minutes after the start of the combustion process.

Materials

To build an oven for baking bread with your own hands with a diameter of up to 110 cm you will need:

fireclay bricks - 260 - 300 pcs.;

cinder block measuring 20x20x40 cm for laying a podium under the device;

fatty clay and sand or ready-made fire-resistant masonry mortar Mortar “SHA-28”;

reinforcing steel with a diameter of 10-12 mm;

cement M50;

basalt mineral wool slabs 5 cm thick;

expanded clay - it can be replaced with perlite or silicate-calcium slab;

OSB or moisture-resistant plywood;

crushed stone and sand;

pipe with a diameter of 100 - 130 mm from of stainless steel or ceramic;

boards for formwork;

waterproofing material- polyethylene or roofing felt.

Tools

The set of tools must be prepared in advance and consist of:

tile cutter;

Bulgarians;

containers for preparing mortar and concrete;

electric drill with a mixer attachment;

trowel;

mallet hammer;

rubber hammer;
clamps;

tape measure, plumb line and building level.

Scheme and dimensions

Its cost directly depends on the size of the device. The smaller its dimensions, the less building materials are consumed and Money. However, there are certain sizing standards that, if changed, may reduce the efficiency of the furnace.

The most optimal size is considered to be a furnace with an internal diameter from 80 mm to 110 cm. The width of the arch at the entrance should correspond in size to the height of the dome, and its height should be equal to 0.6 radius.

Diagram of a wood-burning oven for baking bread

Schematic view of the stove

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

The process of constructing a stove consists of several stages:

foundation design devices;

erection of a stand;

pouring the base slab under the stove;

masonry of the furnace itself;

installation of a thermal insulation layer on the surface of the dome;

facing works.

Before you start laying the foundation, you need to choose a place for construction. Then dig a hole measuring 140x140 cm and 50 cm deep, level and compact the bottom. Next, you need to pour a sand-gravel cushion or crushed stone 30 cm thick with layer-by-layer compaction and watering.

After this, a layer of roofing material is laid.

The next step will be the installation of formwork from boards. The formwork will be only half buried, and its upper part will rise above the surface of the earth.

For mating reinforced frame use reinforcement bars or factory reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 10x10 cm. The inside walls of the box are covered for waterproofing plastic film. Concrete is poured 5 - 8 mm above the box and the upper plane of the foundation is leveled using a plaster rule.

When the concrete has set, the formwork can be dismantled.

Further construction is carried out in the following sequence:

cinder blocks are laid in four rows, forming a U-shaped structure 80 cm high. The blocks of this building material are hollow. To increase strength, you can insert pieces of reinforcement into them and fill them with concrete mixture;

Construction of the pedestal

the arch is formed from brick as follows: 8 pieces of brick are placed on the sides on the mortar, then a semicircular template is installed and bricks are laid out for the vault of the arch;

a reinforced layer is made on top of the podium concrete slab 10 cm thick. Moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is used as the bottom of the formwork; the walls of the box are formed from boards 20 cm wide. The reinforcing mesh must be raised above the bottom of the formwork by 4-5 cm using pieces of brick. The process of pouring concrete mortar is the same as when installing a foundation slab;

Formwork and reinforcement

After the concrete has gained its initial strength, thermal insulation is installed. To do this, a silicate-calcium slab is laid dry on top of the base slab. Then the bottom of the furnace, the outer edge of the dome and the base for the entrance are laid out of fire-resistant brick. It is advisable to schematically depict the position of all elements on paper, as well as number each detail. Then mark the contour of the hearth, cut off the excess parts of the brick and heat-insulating board using a tile cutter;

the remaining unfilled part of the formwork also needs to be filled with a cement-sand mixture;

after the solution has hardened, the formwork boards of the base slab are dismantled;

then the hearth elements are placed using mortar. The perimeter walls of the hearth must be protected from heat loss using basalt wool cut into strips;

now formwork is installed around the perimeter of the base slab and poured into it concrete mortar, so that a single plane is formed on top with the upper surface of the hearth. The formwork can be removed in approximately 8 - 10 days;

To create a dome you will need a template. As a template, you can use a strip mounted on a hinge mechanism in the center of a plywood circle. You can tighten the limiting corner to the rail using a clamp;

Template for masonry

then a metal axis is installed in the center of the circle. A piece of plywood is attached to it, one edge of which repeats inner circuit vault. This sector can be moved in a circle to the part of the dome that will be laid out at the moment;

Start of masonry

then lay the first row of fireclay bricks, cut in half;

from the 2nd to the 5th row they continue to form a dome from halves of bricks, while inside hemisphere bricks are laid end to end, and on the back side there should be a small angle between the edges. This distance is filled with mortar;

Continuation of masonry

simultaneously with the construction of the dome walls, an entrance opening is formed in the stove;

from the 6th to the 8th rows are laid out from the third part of the bricks. On the outside of the structure, wooden wedges are inserted into the seams to prevent distortion in the masonry. At the same stage, a semicircular vault of the arch is formed;

Completion of masonry

for laying subsequent rows, the brick is cut into smaller segments. For the crown, you can buy a ready-made disk made of fireclay bricks. At the installation site of the chimney there must be a hole of a size corresponding to the cross-section of the prepared pipe;

Chimney pipe installation

before installing thermal insulation, the stove is dried, firing small portions of fuel for a week;

to level the outer surface of the dome, it must be coated with a layer of mortar 2 - 3 cm thick;

waterproofing material - foil - is laid on top;

a reinforcing mesh is attached to the top of the foil;

coat the structure with a 5-7 cm layer of mortar consisting of 5 parts perlite and 1 part Portland cement;

Now the dome can be covered ceramic tiles for outdoor work (optional).

A few examples of finished structures in the photo:

Features of operation

Before baking bread, the oven is heated for 2.5-3 hours, and then the ash residues and ashes are swept out of it. Another thirty minutes should be spent on uniform distribution of heat throughout the dome. You can then check the temperature using a bimetallic thermometer and begin cooking the product.

The lining layer of fireclay bricks with a porous structure is able to quickly absorb moisture and release it evenly during cooking, so baked goods from such an oven have a unique aroma.

Conclusion

The construction of such a furnace is not a quick task and requires considerable effort. However, lovers of fresh homemade baked goods are ready to work hard and build such an oven. In addition, the design is so original form can become a real decoration of the local area.

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Modern technologies are replacing many elements of human life, but, oddly enough, they have not affected stove heating. Apparently, the fabulous Emelya on the stove has settled in people’s memories for a long time, and haunts designers and inventors. They are trying to improve heating and cooking furnace equipment as much as possible in order to make it more economical. Labor costs in the process of laying the stove should be minimal.

Among heating devices, only brick and heat storage stoves have the ability to accumulate heat. It takes 2 hours for the room to heat up, then the heat is stored for at least a day - the main advantage of compact brick stoves and fireplaces. Among the disadvantages, it should be noted that heat transfer does not occur immediately, but after 2-3 hours from the start of heating.

Varieties

Depending on the purpose there are different types brick kilns:

Heating devices are designed for heating rooms and do not differ in the complexity of their masonry;
It is recommended to install heating and cooking equipment for heating buildings where there is no gas or electricity. In this case, the cooking ovens are different complex design, which includes a heating unit, a cooking panel. Sometimes the design includes an oven.

A compact brick stove-fireplace is convenient because it saves space in the room and does not require much for arrangement. building materials(pipes, bricks). Heat generation occurs much faster than with a traditional oven.

Advantages

Brick kilns have a number of advantages:

efficiency;
presence of good draft in the chimney;
convenience and ease of maintenance;
the ability of the stove to store heat for a long time;
service life - over 20 years;
ensuring fire safety;
The design of the stove and fireplace creates a feeling of coziness and comfort in the room.

Exclusive products made in small bakeries are becoming increasingly popular.
Bakeries with wood-burning ovens also fall into this category. Natural bread self made sourdough, so-called from a wood-burning oven, is considered a delicacy in Europe, and costs three times more than usual.
Products baked in such bakeries have a unique taste and aroma and are an environmentally friendly product.

A wood-burning bread oven can operate on wood or pellets (fuel pellets obtained from peat, wood waste),
The combustion system is made of durable refractory bricks that can withstand high temperatures. The fire directly heats the fireclay coating and stone, which in turn transfer heat to the baked product.

Heating of this type is very economical; uniform heating and the baking process occur thanks to the rational passage of hot gases.
In traditional ovens this is accompanied by high energy consumption.

Manufacturers of baking equipment have begun producing wood-burning ovens. Now on the market there is a choice of such furnaces, different in volume and price.
The prices below are approximate to give you an idea of the prices.

Wood-burning ovens WERZ (Germany) from 12 to 40 kg of bread 14.800 -18 000 EUR

Italy, PEVA wood stove 5,000 -16,000 EUR

Türkiye, Enkomak MTO 80 wood-fired bread oven 37,700 EUR

Russia, baking oven KhPK-50M2, cradle 8 000 EUR

The bread maker can be used in both stationary and mobile versions.

What is unique about the oven is that the circular movement of the cradles with bread molds inside the baking chamber guarantees uniform baking bakery products.

Russia, wood-burning baking ovens “RP-1” “RP-2” 1 500 - 2 500 EUR

For a long time, the heating stove has served in the house not only as a source of heat, but also as a multifunctional device. Brick ovens are valued for preparing amazing dishes at home, including bread and other baked goods. Technologies are moving forward, so building a similar structure in your own private home or country house is not very difficult, so that fresh homemade bread will always be on the table.

Types of brick bread ovens

Electrical devices

Bread ovens are conventionally divided into several varieties depending on the structure and additional characteristics. It is believed that this type of design is the most cost-effective and convenient to use. Using electric ovens at home is convenient, and the cooking process does not take much time; the operating principle is the same as that of a multicooker. You need to select the desired program and pour the ingredients into the bowl, after a certain period of time, pick up the finished product.

Wood burning devices

This type is especially relevant for areas where there are problems with the supply of electricity and all cooking and heating occurs due to structures whose combustion is carried out by supplying firewood. A wood-burning baking oven has the following positive aspects:

provides a unique taste and aroma of freshly baked sourdough bread;
the ability to bake buns and bread in large batches;
other dishes are also prepared in bread ovens;
The dimensions of a wood-burning structure, as a rule, are not very large, so it can be built in any convenient place.

Brick devices

Bread bakes very quickly in such a building.

Is ideal option For country houses and dachas. Brick ovens allow you to bake bread various types in just half an hour. After completing the process of cooking bread products in a well-melted structure for another 8 hours, you can prepare many other dishes, such as jams, desserts, etc.

General construction rules

The process of building an oven for making bread is not particularly difficult, but all stages are performed sequentially. On initial stage During construction, it is important for the future owner of the oven to outline the overall dimensions of the building, the combustion door, and also decide on the bread chamber, its volume and capacity. The second important step is to build an ordering scheme. Depending on how the masonry is laid, the appearance and performance of the stove will depend. The order is described in detail in diagrams, which I can’t find special labor and even more so to understand the structure of the work from the drawings.

An important part in the construction of a furnace is the calculation of the consumption of materials used.
Which brick to choose?
The quality of a bread oven largely depends on the materials used for the job. All types of bricks have their own characteristics, which are taken into account when laying. It is important to purchase materials taking into account the battle; the reserve volume is about 5-7%. The main types of bricks used in construction are listed in the table:
Name Characteristic Application in furnace construction
Lode The product is distinguished by quality, correct product shapes and a wide palette of colors Used for laying out the outer part
Vitebsk Has smooth edges and fits to size Placed on a thin seam during the construction of stoves
Pipe Before using this material, it is recommended to pre-soak it in water. Used for the construction of chimney surfaces
Resistant to internal and external factors
Facing It is lightweight, which is especially important when lifting material onto the roof of a building Most often used for laying pipes above the roof level
Masonry: stages

Foundation and order

The ordering of the structure occurs after the high-quality laying of the foundation.
The bell oven for bread is built on solid foundation so that in the future the structure does not warp or crack. The parameters of the depth, width and length of the base of the building depend, first of all, on the size of the future furnace. It is better to lay the foundation during the construction of the building, otherwise the complexity of the construction work increases several times. Construction stages:
A pit is dug into which crushed stone and sand are poured; after compacting the mixture, cement mortar is poured.
Next, the laying is carried out, all rows must be as even as possible, any deviations are leveled using a building level. Used exclusively solid brick.
At this stage, it is important not to miss the moment with dressing the stitches. To prevent the destruction of the structure groundwater, a layer of roofing felt is first laid until it dries completely, only after that the brick ordering is performed.

Bread baking oven

Content:

Furnace design

The design of the stove is based on the fireplace - bread oven scheme described by the Finnish author J. Keppo in the book Brick stoves and fireplaces: masonry (St. Petersburg: Alpha-mer Publishing. 2005). Design changes were made to this scheme based on the developments of Igor Kuznetsov: dry slots, a catalyst grille and an air duct system for supplying secondary air were made.

In addition, from Finnish design The massive tooth of the fireplace was removed, instead of which we now have a catalyst grate in the hearth of the bread chamber.
The gas flow pattern in the furnace is as follows. Hot gases, rising upward during the combustion of wood, pass through the catalyst plates, enter the bread chamber and heat it. Further gases flow depending on the selected combustion mode. In the fireplace mode (with the rotary valve open), the gases go directly into the pipe, and when the rotary valve is closed, they are divided into two streams on the ceiling of the bread chamber and, through channels located on the sides of the oven, are lowered DOWN to the level of the second row. Here they gather in one ascending channel and rise up to the pipe.
Dry slots cut the firebox in the rear corners and, according to the concept of free movement of gases in the furnace, allow cold air that is not involved in the combustion process to go into the lower parts of the side descending channels, which increases the temperature in the firebox. In addition, thanks to this device, the furnace becomes truly slag-free, since the draft effect (blowing out the furnace with the valve not tightly closed) does not affect the hot gases in its upper part and it retains heat longer. Well. finally, these slots contribute to more uniform heating of the furnace, since through them some of the hot gases enter the side channels directly from the firebox and the temperature of the lower part of the furnace rises as a result.

The secondary air supply channels begin with holes in the ash chamber, pass between the bricks of the combustion chamber lining and end with holes in the upper part of the firebox under the combustion grate.

Brick selection

What type of stove will turn out depends largely on the source materials and, first of all, on the brick from which the stove will be built. Each type of brick has its own characteristics that must be taken into account and which should be known. The quantity of each grade of brick becomes clear from the kiln order and total height pipes taking into account interfloor cutting, "otter" and the distance from the pipe to the roof ridge. You need to buy bricks with some reserve for the battle (about 5-7%). I used 5 types of bricks in this kiln.
Lode bricks are produced in Lithuania by JSC LODE - the largest manufacturer of ceramic building materials in the Baltic countries. Products under this brand differ high quality, clear geometric shapes, original color. Therefore, I laid out the outer walls from it. At the same time, I used two types of red solid brick - rectangular and with a Rounded (R60) corner.

These bricks have features: the rectangular one has a barely noticeable bulge on the front edge, and the angular one has bulges on the curves
This has to be taken into account during laying. In addition, Lode bricks have chamfers on the edges of the front sides, as a result of which a regular seam (about 5 mm) seems much thicker, and the chamfer of the corner brick in its rounded part is slightly less than the longitudinal one.
Stoves made from this brick look great, but its high cost is often an argument in favor of a cheaper one - Vitebsk.
Vitebsk brick. I used red solid Vitebsk brick (often called stove brick) to lay the inside of the stove (chimneys and ash chamber). This brick is produced in Vitebsk by JSC Keramika in two workshops: workshop No. 1 and No. 2. The brick from the first workshop is marked in the form of tattoos and, according to my Moscow colleagues (as well as my own), is of higher quality than the brick from the second workshop. The latter is marked with a flat stamp indicating the workshop number

Vitebsk brick may have deviations from standard sizes in 2-3 mm. In order not to encounter uneven seams (both horizontal and vertical) during laying, it is better to adhere to the well-known rule: select a brick for each row in advance. It is not recommended to build a pipe higher than the roof from this brick - it has low frost resistance and after a few years the pipe begins to collapse.
Fireclay brick ShchA-8_or ShB 5; used, as a rule, for lining fireboxes, although quite often the entire stove or fireplace is made from it, using it in separate places or completely decorative treatment under a wild stone. Produced by several factories. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the appearance; the brick must have sharp edges, appropriate markings and must not crumble.
There is also a sha-5 brick on sale, which is slightly smaller in size and less convenient to work with.

Pipe brick This is a semi-dry pressed ceramic red solid brick with 6 protrusions on one bed. It is produced at the Obolsky ceramic plant in the Republic of Belarus. Is attractive appearance and has strictly maintained dimensions, but is very hygroscopic. Before using this brick, it must be thoroughly soaked in water. One of the main advantages is the very smooth surface(moreover, the back and front edges do not differ in quality and the surface of the chimneys turns out to be very smooth). In this regard, working with this brick is a pleasure. But it is not recommended to use it in hot places in the furnace and when building a pipe above the roof. This brick was used to build a pipe up to the roof near my stove.
Facing - red or yellow slotted ceramic brick tolerates impacts well low temperatures when wet. In addition, it is much lighter than other bricks, which is very important when lifting it onto the roof. I used it to lay pipes above the roof.

Furnace appliances

Installation of furnace appliances. I secured the cleaning and blower doors in the masonry using soft wire 01-1.2 mm. twisted in four (photo I). First I twisted wire 1 in half using a screwdriver with a hook attachment.

I did it this way: I bent the workpiece in the middle and at this point I hooked it to the hook on the screwdriver. A gloved assistant held the two opposite ends of the wire tightly, pulling them tight. and I turned on the screwdriver. The tension force adjusts the twist pitch. If there was no assistant, I usually made two more hooks and secured them in the wall or on some kind of support. The opposite ends of the wire were hooked and twisted.
I inserted the prepared twisted wire into the door mounting holes and twisted it in half again, but this time by hand. I coated the door shelves thin layer masonry mortar and covered it with a strip of basalt cardboard. The ends of the strip were connected at the bottom of the shelf. In this case, the strip does not spread to the sides. After this, I cut off the excess part of the wire, bent its end and secured it in a vertical seam with tension. If necessary, using a short nail driven into the seam closer to the door, I pulled the wire away from the edge of the bricks so that it lay entirely in the masonry.

I usually attach Finnish furnace doors with screws, but first fix them with wire. I do it like this. After aligning the door with the center of the front wall of the stove and the horizon with wire passed through the lower and upper side holes in the frame, I attach the door to the board, which is inserted at both ends into dry cracks located in the far corners of the combustion chamber. I select the length of the board so that the board can be easily removed at the end of the laying (photo 2,3).

In our case, at the customer’s insistence, I strengthened the door opening lintel metal corner 50x50 mm. placed on the back side of the slab bricks in level with the slab (photo 4). The corner was covered on all sides with basalt cardboard.
After the opening was lined and blocked, I finally secured the door with 26 mm screws with a key head, with preliminary drilling of holes for them in the bricks located along the side walls of the opening. I filled the holes a small amount masonry mortar, wrapped the screws themselves with asbestos thread and screwed them into the holes. To prevent the thread from flying off the screws, it was lightly coated with a solution.
No less responsible and difficult moment installation of the bread chamber door and rotary valve In photo 5, a board with a cross is clearly visible, to which the bread chamber door is temporarily attached using the same wire; the cross prevents the board from falling down. Transverse wire twist allows you to press the door tightly against brickwork. The body of the rotary valve at the junction with the brick was carefully insulated with basalt cardboard.

I installed the rotary valve perpendicular to the side wall of the furnace and, according to the instructions, slightly at an angle, on the bricks prepared in advance. I cut a groove in the brick that secures the rod with the rotary handle. It is very important to adjust the location of the rod to the seam of the next row. This greatly simplifies the work.
Before installing the valve, I temporarily crushed the stem by slightly loosening the two screws that secure it. I measured the required length of the rod and cut it according to the dimensions of the stove. The rod passes through the masonry inside the tube. Before putting this tube on the rod, I wrapped it tightly with asbestos thread so that the tube was put on with force. The tube itself was also cut to size and wrapped with basalt cardboard. The rod passed through the valve body and fixed the rotary plate on it.
Handle to rod together with decorative overlay I secured it later with two screws. The body of the rotary valve in the places where it abuts the brick was carefully insulated with basalt cardboard. Photo 6 clearly shows the installed rotary valve.
Under the row of flue covers, I installed a retractable furnace valve, which is the main one (photo 7). It is securely hidden in a basalt coat to protect it from overheating when the stove is operating in fireplace mode.

Catalyst

Secondary air supply and catalyst grid. The secondary air supply channels and the carbonization grate are, as already mentioned, an important structural part of the stoves of the stove maker Igor Kuznetsov. My secondary air supply system starts with holes in the side walls of the blower chamber (photo 8). From these holes, air rises through 5mm gaps between the fireclay masonry of the firebox and additional bricks placed parallel to them on the edge (photo 9)
The air exits under the catalyst grate through centimeter-long slits in the fireclay bricks in the side walls of the combustion chamber (see photo 2).
When laying bricks above these passages, the main thing is not to block them with mortar. I didn’t succeed in trying to do this the first time, and I had to be smart. A thin sheet of aluminum foil caught my eye, from which I cut out plates somewhat wider than the air ducts, laid these plates over the slots, and carefully applied clay to the uncovered parts of the brick and pressed it down with the top bricks.
The catalyst is a system of thin plates made of fireclay bricks (with a cross-section of 20x40 mm and a length slightly wider than the outlet of the firebox). I installed the plates in grooves cut into the side bricks with rectangular inserts made of the same fireclay between them (photo 10).

When installing a catalyst grid, it is necessary to maintain the total area of the holes between the plates - it should not be less area sections chimney(in my case - 12x25 cm, that is, the area of one brick).
Dry gap, photo 11 shows the rear corner of the furnace firebox, lined with fireclay bricks on edge. It can be seen that the bricks in the corner are not tied and a 3-centimeter so-called “dry gap” is left between them. Despite extra work According to its design, in my furnaces, following the recommendations of Igor Kuznetsov, I make “dry” slots both in combination with static grilles and separately, since experience shows that they increase the thermal characteristics of the furnace and significantly reduce the formation of soot in its chimneys.
Between two rows of fireclay bricks placed on edge, a narrow gap in the air duct is visible, originating in the blower chamber.
Covering openings. I most often close the fire door opening “into the lock” (photo 12,13). The main difficulty here is to fit the “lock” brick tightly to the adjacent bricks. When laying the lock and the next row, you should be careful, since if you press too hard, you can fall the bricks inside the opening. For greater stability, you can load the side bricks - put a brick on them “on the butt” or put another load. The jumper was made taking into account the curvature of the arch of the combustion door (photo 14).
The bread chamber was blocked in the same way as the firebox openings, that is, “into the lock” (photo 15). Photo 6 clearly shows the architecture of the floor masonry from the inside. A rotary valve is visible in the depths of the bread chamber.

Fireclay core

Reduced driving resistance flue gases. For stable combustion in a furnace, it is imperative to round the corners in the path of the flue gases - this reduces the resistance to their movement. For example, on the ceiling of the bread chamber, for this purpose I installed gas distribution shaped bricks to remove gases into the side downward chimneys (photo 17). The width of the outlet holes (two holes on each side) is calculated in such a way that it is convenient to block them.
Fireclay core insulation. The fireclay core of the furnace experiences the greatest thermal loads during combustion. As a result, its thermal expansion is greater than the expansion of the remaining parts of the furnace. To prevent this from leading to the appearance of cracks in the furnace, the fireclay core must be separated from external masonry thermal gap or a layer of basalt cardboard.
The fireclay core overlap also needs to be isolated from the underlying masonry. To do this, I laid two layers of basalt cardboard on top (photo 18) and reinforcing mesh over the entire floor area that was poured masonry mortar, and laid channels and corners on top that do not rest on the fireclay core (photo 19).

Iron in the furnace masonry should always be treated with extreme caution, well insulating it from direct contact with brick, otherwise cracks in the masonry cannot be avoided. Therefore, when laying the channels and corners, I carefully packed them in basalt cardboard, and, in addition, separated the channels from the chimney with bricks (fogo 20).
It must be said that the channels are used here in connection with the fact. that, according to the masonry conditions, it was necessary to move the pipe to the center of the furnace. If the pipe rested on the outer wall, then the corners would be enough to cover it. Exterior view of the stove. Periodically at the end of the working day I washed the stove and cleaned excess garbage. It is more pleasant and safer to work in such conditions [photo 21].

Results

First results. Recently I inquired about how the stove I built behaved and was pleasantly pleased. During the period of operation, not a single crack appeared in the masonry. At the beginning of the fire, the catalyst grate is covered with a thin layer of soot, but then the soot burns out.

The brick oven first warms up in the upper part, but after 2-3 hours it becomes hot throughout the entire massif. In the bread chamber, like in a Russian oven, you can prepare crumbly porridge and baked milk with foam. Even after a day and a half, you can feel the heat emanating from the stove.