Do-it-yourself potbelly stove: detailed assembly instructions. Do-it-yourself air heat exchanger for a chimney: manufacturing examples and tips from experts Do-it-yourself heat exchanger from a cylinder

If you pay attention to how much a cast-iron or steel wood-burning stove costs, you will quickly understand that buying it to heat a garage or cottage with a greenhouse is not always justified. A more affordable option is a potbelly stove made from a long-burning gas cylinder, made by hand or custom-welded by a craftsman according to your drawings. Our goal is to help with the choice of design, describe the manufacturing technology of the potbelly stove and its installation, right down to the installation of the chimney.

Selecting the design of a wood stove

Outdated and inefficient heating equipment is gradually becoming a thing of the past, which also affects homemade stoves. Nowadays, no one needs primitive iron boxes with a pipe and doors that devour firewood without good heat transfer. A modern potbelly stove should be economical and heat the room well. Therefore, advanced craftsmen are constantly working to improve steel furnaces.

To achieve the most efficient operation of a wood-burning heater, it is necessary to solve 2 questions: how to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove and the burning time from one load, without increasing the quantity and price of the materials used. We present 3 homemade options where these tasks were successfully solved and implemented:

three-pass stove made of two propane cylinders;
pyrolysis stove with an air-fire-tube heat exchanger and a secondary chamber;
A very popular design is “Bubafonya” with top burning of wood from a gas cylinder.

For reference. The first 2 units were designed, made and tested by our expert, who kindly provided his photos and video materials.

If you are comfortable with a welding machine and have necessary tool, then there will be no technical problems with manufacturing. Below we will present drawings and explain the technology of how to make a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder using all three options. But first, make your choice by reading the review of these stoves.

To make a stove you need welding machine, grinder, plumbing and measuring tools. You will need several clamps, at least 2 pieces

Three-way potbelly stove - operating principle and pros and cons

The master gave this homemade oven the playful name “Collider” because of the unusual appearance and good heat dissipation. This wood-burning stove is made from two standard 50-liter propane cylinders welded to each other at an angle of 90°, as shown in the drawing. The operating principle is as follows:

The first tank, laid horizontally, plays the role of a firebox and is accordingly equipped with doors and grates. An impressive portion of firewood is placed in it and set on fire.
The second vessel is an air heat exchanger with internal partitions, slowing down the flow flue gases and forcing them to change the direction of movement three times and give off more heat. At the end, combustion products leave the heater through the chimney pipe.
To increase the heating surface, both parts of the housing are equipped with additional ribs.
An ash pan made of sheet metal, whose door regulates the supply of combustion air.

Sectional drawing of a homemade three-way wood-burning heater

Note. With the same success, instead of cylinders, you can use a steel pipe for a potbelly stove with a diameter of 300 mm and thin walls (4-5 mm).

The estimated power of the “Collider” is 10 kW with an efficiency of about 55%, which allows you to heat a room of up to 100 m² - a cottage, a greenhouse or large garage(boxing). Practical tests have shown that in the mode of maintaining heat in a heated room, 1 load of firewood lasts for 1.5-2 hours. If you use a heating unit in a smaller house (25-50 m²), the combustion duration will increase to 3-4 hours. Anyone who understands the topic will understand that for homemade potbelly stove This is good economics.

Photo of the finished Collider stove with heat exchange fins

There is only one downside to this long-burning stove - it’s a bit strange appearance. But it is compensated by numerous advantages:

ease of manufacture;
quick warm-up and decent operating time from 1 load of solid fuel;
the design is cheap, you only have to buy comfortable handles and also a pipe for the potbelly stove if you don’t have propane cylinders;
due to the size of the firebox, long (80 cm) and massive logs are placed in the stove, which contributes to the duration of combustion;
the unit can be made with a hob, as shown in the photo.

The "Collider", like any potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder, welded by yourself, can be supplemented by installing a water circuit, regulating the air damper in the ash pan door and an external fan. The dimensions of the stove can be changed in any direction by selecting smaller tanks or pipes of a different diameter.

The operation of a potbelly stove used to heat a 100 m² cafe is described in the video:

Review of a pyrolysis oven for 2 chambers

This small wood-burning stove, made from a 24-liter gas cylinder, was named “Pyaterochka” after the number of air heat exchanger pipes. It operates according to this principle:

As in the previous case, the cylinder laid on its side serves as a combustion chamber, and an ash pan is attached to the bottom. The role of the grate is played by slits cut in the wall of the vessel.
At the top of the tank there is an opening where 5 are adjacent vertical pipes heat exchanger. Hot flue gases move along them and thus release some of the heat into the room.
From the heat exchanger, combustion products enter the secondary chamber, where separate tube heated air is supplied separately. Thanks to this, the combustible gases formed in the firebox are burned and release additional heat, after which they are directed into the chimney.

Drawing of a long-burning pyrolysis stove with a gas afterburning chamber

The results of practical tests of the heater are as follows: a room with an area of 30 m² warms up to 20 °C within 1 hour, after which one laying of wood lasts for 1.5-2 hours, depending on the operating mode. Approximate power – 5 kW. As you can see, in this design the burning time is reduced due to the reduction of the firebox, but the stove is very compact and will fit in any room. Yes, and it heats up quite well.

Advice. Do you want to increase the burning time to an average of 4 hours? Then study the drawing of another option, which shows the same pyrolysis potbelly stove, made with your own hands from a 50-liter gas cylinder. The design of the heating units is identical, the only difference is in the volume of the tanks used as a firebox.

This is what a two-chamber homemade stove looks like. 2 rods are welded on top - you can put a saucepan or kettle with water

Thanks to the efficient combustion of wood, the Pyaterochka stove is more economical than the Collider, although it is more difficult to assemble. In terms of the cost of materials, the difference between them is small - the first has 2 cylinders, the second has 5 pipes with a diameter of 57 mm and a length of 40 cm. A separate advantage of the stove is the ability, after heating, to burn wet wood and any debris without losing heating intensity. The remaining advantages are the same - low cost, ease of use and the possibility of modernization.

More useful advice. It is quite natural if, after replacing a small cylinder with a standard one (50 l), you want to increase the heater’s power and add 2-3 more pipes to the heat exchanger. Remember that the flow area and chimney draft should increase accordingly. Otherwise, you will waste materials and time, because due to insufficient draft, the outer sections will remain cold and the furnace power will not increase.

An enlarged version of Pyaterochka from a large 50 l cylinder

Top burning stove "Bubafonya"

By by and large, “Bubafonya” cannot be classified as a potbelly stove, since it has a radically different operating principle. But it is impossible to ignore this stove due to its wide popularity due to the burning time from 1 load of wood from 6 to 10 hours. At the same time, the heater is famous for its numerous shortcomings, which we will discuss later.

The operation algorithm of the Bubafonya long-burning stove shown in the drawing is as follows:

The firebox is standing vertically propane tank for 50 l. Through a hole in the top cover, an air supply pipe enters inside, ending with a thick metal disk. Steel strips are attached to the bottom, distributing air in all directions.
When the firebox is filled to the top with firewood, the heavy disk presses it down and causes it to sag as it burns. Ignition is also done from above, and only then the pipe with the load is lowered.
The combustion air supply is regulated by a damper installed at the upper end of the pipe. The chimney pipe is embedded in side wall bottle under the lid itself.

Drawing of a top combustion furnace and arrangement of air distributors

Note. The place where the pipe passes through the lid is not sealed and secondary air is sucked in there, which helps to burn out the flammable gases above the disk when the oven is properly heated.

The strengths of "Bubafoni" are a decent operating time, simplicity and the possibility of conversion into an upper combustion boiler (a stove is made with a water jacket, as described in). But the weaknesses forced many garage owners to abandon such potbelly stoves:

the stove cannot be loaded until all the fuel has burned;
if the damper is closed, the firebox will not go out and will smolder for a long time, because secondary air enters it;
without good draft, the heater smokes into the room;
in the slow burning mode, the stove heats weakly, and the chimney pipe becomes intensively clogged with soot;
To enter normal mode, the unit must warm up well, which consumes ¼ of the fuel.

On the left in the photo is a close-up of the air damper, on the right are homemade heat exchange fins from profiles for installing gypsum boards

For reference. To burn off soot in the chimney, you need to run the Bubafonya at maximum speed every time you light it.

Finally, let's sweeten the pill a little. Despite all the shortcomings, a long-burning stove made from a gas cylinder does not lose popularity; in addition, it successfully operates on sawdust and various flammable debris.

Instructions for making a potbelly stove with your own hands

Before you cook wood stove long burning, you should prepare all the necessary power tools:

welding inverter;
grinder, also known as an angle grinder;
drill with a set of drills.

Note. We will not list hammers with pliers here, since a good owner will always have a full set of tools in his house.

Of course, you will need an old propane tank, from which you need to twist the valve and be sure to fill it with water before cutting. The fact is that propane is heavier than air and its residues will not leave the tank on their own. To push them out of there, water is used. The order of further work depends on the chosen design.

Assembling a three-pass furnace

In addition to the cylinders, to make this potbelly stove you need to prepare the following materials:

sheet metal 2 mm thick will go to the ash chamber and ribs, 3 mm - to the doors;
trim round pipe with a diameter of 100 mm - on the chimney pipe;
corners or profile pipes for legs;
asbestos, or better yet, graphite-asbestos cord for sealing the doors;
steel profile 20 x 20 mm or reinforcement of the same cross-section - to strengthen the grate.

Joining two cylinders (left) and welding door frames (right)

Advice. It is easier to buy handles - locks with beautiful ebonite linings than to waste time on homemade ones. To give the stove a modern look, purchase heat-resistant paint (sold in aerosol cans).

To prevent the rods from bending due to high temperatures, they need to be reinforced with welded profiles

First of all, cut the metal into blanks according to the dimensions indicated in the drawing of a long-burning potbelly stove presented in previous section. The furnace manufacturing technology is as follows:

At the end of the first cylinder, cut an opening for the door and a hole in the wall for the gases to escape. Cut off the bottom of the second vessel, and make a 100 mm hole at the end for a pipe. Make semicircular cutouts on the walls so that one cylinder sits tightly on the other.
Cut the slits in the grate. From the outside, weld amplifiers from a 20 mm profile to it.
Make an ash pan and door frames, weld them to the body. Install the legs at the same time.
Weld the doors and seal the junctions with the frame. Install the sashes and handles.
Use the cut out walls of the cylinder as partitions, welding them inside the vertical tank.
Connect the two vessels together by welding. Install the chimney pipe and boil it.
Attach heat transfer fins to both housings. At this point the oven is ready.

A few words about how to make tight doors for a long-burning potbelly stove. The technology is simple: a channel is formed from narrow steel strips welded to the inner surface of the sash, into which a graphite-asbestos cord is subsequently stuffed. The main thing is to clearly determine the location of the groove. Upon completion, all metal must be degreased and painted in 3 layers with breaks for drying.

Advice. Before painting, it is advisable to heat the welded stove in order to burn off all the old paint.

Manufacturing of a two-chamber pyrolysis stove

The assembly diagram of this high-efficiency potbelly stove is in many ways similar to the Collider, only 1 gas cylinder is used, and pipes with a diameter of 57 and 20 mm are added from materials (for the heat exchanger and secondary air supply, respectively). The work order is as follows:

Cut holes in the tank for the loading door and for installing the heat exchanger. The dimensions of the platform for it are 260 x 200 mm.
Make an ash pan and install doors as described above. Weld the supports.
Make a heat exchanger by cutting pipes in a staggered pattern between two sheets of metal. Observe the center distances indicated in the drawing.
Bend the 20 mm pipe at an angle of 90° and weld it to the heat exchanger. Attach the latter to the opening cut in the cylinder.
Weld the secondary chamber with the chimney pipe. As a lid, use a semicircular blank that used to be the wall of the cylinder. The heater is ready.

Stages of assembling the firebox door - non-combustible insulation is laid in the center, graphite cord is laid along the edges

Note. If you use a standard cylinder, then the work algorithm does not change, only the ash pan needs to be made larger (the size is shown in the drawing).

A little about how to properly supply air to the secondary chamber of a long-burning potbelly stove. Before installation, the end of the tube must be plugged, and 5-6 cuts in the form of a Latin V must be made on the sides. Then the pipe is inserted into the hole in the upper platform of the heat exchanger and scalded. If you are making a potbelly stove with your own hands from a pipe taken instead of a cylinder, you will need to weld back wall and a front panel made of metal with a thickness of at least 4 mm.

Such slits need to be made on the sides of the tube - air passes through them into the secondary chamber

Photo of the potbelly stove assembly process

We install a frame for the oven doors

We weld an ash pan from sheet metal

We cut the grates and reinforce them with a welding profile

We weld the ash chamber to the cylinder

We put handles and locks on the doors

Cutting holes for pipes in the flanges of the heat exchanger

Making a potbelly stove on video

Assembling the Bubafonya heater

The manufacturing technology of this stove is one of the simplest. Take a 50 liter gas cylinder, cut off the top part along the factory seam, and then perform the following steps:

Weld a grate from periodic profile reinforcement with a diameter of 20-24 mm and install it according to the drawing. Below, cut an opening and install the ash chamber door.
Make a hole in the cut off lid for the air pipe, and weld a steel strip to the outside of the cylinder for sealing.
Attach a disk weight with welded air diffusers to one end of the 57 mm pipe by welding, and place an air damper on the other.
Install the chimney pipe.
Insert the air pipe into the firebox and put on the lid.

In fact, 3 parts are the entire Bubafonya stove

For reference. Many home craftsmen do not install grates and an ash pan door in a Bubafonya-type stove. This simplifies the work, but complicates the operation: after the firewood burns out, the body has to be turned over to shake out the ash.

Installation of a grate made of reinforcing bars

How to properly install a potbelly stove and chimney

When placing wood heaters, it is important to follow fire safety regulations. This is especially true for our expert’s stoves, whose upper part can become red-hot under maximum operating conditions. Here the requirements are:

In a garage or country house built of brick or other fireproof materials, the minimum distance to the walls of the room is not standardized. But any flammable objects or structures must be no closer than 50 cm from the body of the stove.
In a greenhouse, a potbelly stove should not be placed close to plants or external glass walls.
In a wooden house, the floors under the stove are covered with a metal sheet protruding from the side of the firebox by 700 mm. Nearby walls are also lined with metal to prevent fire.

A separate question is what to make a chimney for a potbelly stove from. Aluminum corrugation is definitely not suitable, since the temperature of the gases at the outlet reaches 200-400 °C, depending on the operating mode. What options are acceptable:

ordinary steel pipe with thin walls;
flue made of roofing or stainless steel;
insulated sandwich chimney.

It is better to lay the chimney duct at an angle (left) than simply vertically (right)

Advice. It is preferable to take the last option for a chimney - a double-walled pipe with basalt fiber insulation in the middle.

To create good traction, the top of the pipe is placed at a height of 4 m or more, measured from the grate. The Bubafonya potbelly stove is especially demanding in terms of draft; for it, the gas outlet should be made higher, so that later there will be no questions about why the stove smokes into the room. Ideally, the vertical section of the chimney should end with a condensate collector, although many home craftsmen do not adhere to this rule.

By the way, the correct chimney allows you to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove. This is achieved in two ways:

In a garage or greenhouse, the chimney pipe is extended and laid at an angle, and at the other end of the room it goes out onto the roof, as shown in the photo above. So the hot combustion products will be released more heat internal air.
A heat exchanger is installed on the vertical section of the chimney, connected to the water heating system of the house or cottage. Disadvantage: you will have to remove soot from the chimney duct of a long-burning potbelly stove more often.

Connection diagram for a water heat exchanger located on a chimney pipe

A samovar-type heat exchanger placed on the chimney of a potbelly stove should not be directly connected to the water heating network. There is a danger that the coolant may boil and rupture the pipelines. It is better to use a connection diagram through a container of water - a heat accumulator, which you can also make with your own hands from a gas cylinder. For a description and drawings of its design you can.

A stove called a potbelly stove appeared in our country with the beginning of the Civil War in the twentieth century. It was nicknamed the potbelly stove for its rounded shape, reminiscent of a belly, and its ability to burn through a supply of firewood for 15–20 minutes. Having given up all the heat to the walls, the potbelly stove quickly cools down. By the way, in the USA this same oven was called the fat-bellied oven. The potbelly stove gained popularity in our country for its ease of manufacture. made from a gas cylinder, from a piece of pipe, from metal barrel, welded from sheets of steel or cast iron. From scrap materials it is easy to assemble a temporary structure with a water circuit, which will faithfully serve for years and decades.

What is a potbelly stove with a water circuit: the advantages and disadvantages of a popular stove

A potbelly stove is characterized by high heat transfer and fuel burning rate. These qualities are given to it by the materials from which the firebox is made (cast iron, steel, iron). The potbelly stove quickly flares up and heats up, and if a water circuit is connected to it, then the warm flue gases along the way also manage to heat the water for domestic needs.

When choosing the material from which it is best to make a potbelly stove, you need to be guided by the following indicators:

Thermal conductivity is the property of metals, liquids and gases to conduct heat through themselves. The faster heat is transferred, the faster the object heats up or cools down. Polystyrene foam has low thermal conductivity - 0.036–0.050 W/m*C. Taking it in our hands, we will immediately feel that it is warm, because the foam does not transfer heat, but accumulates it. If you take a metal bar, you will feel the cold due to the high heat transfer.
Heat capacity is the property of a material to accumulate heat. Water has the highest heat capacity, air is in second place, and cast iron, steel and iron are at the end of the list. Therefore, a metal stove heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly. Batteries in city houses central heating filled with water, which gives off heat for a long time, heating the home.

List of materials used to create a potbelly stove:

Steel.
Cast iron.
Iron.
Brass.
Aluminum.
Copper.

There are many articles on our website that describe instructions for making stoves. IN next material you will find installation instructions for a potbelly stove operating on waste oil:.

Table: thermal conductivity, heat capacity and melting point of popular materials for creating a potbelly stove

Copper is the most thermally conductive material of all those listed in the table. Its disadvantages are cost and melting point. Aluminum and brass have the same limitations. At high temperatures, a cast iron or steel stove will only turn red, but will do its job, while a copper, aluminum or brass stove will melt.

Potbelly stoves are most often made of steel, because it has high temperature melting and the highest heat capacity of all available materials

Making a stove from steel, iron and cast iron is justified due to the prevalence of these materials. From the point of view of thermal conductivity and heat capacity, they need fine-tuning. It is more expedient to use the thermal energy of the stove to heat water, otherwise it will simply go down the chimney. To limit heat loss, it is also very important to achieve complete combustion of the fuel.

The ideal way for a potbelly stove to work is when barely warm air comes out of the pipe, and all the energy is directed into hot water supply and heating the house.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of a potbelly stove

Advantages

Flaws

high room heating rate;
possibility of preparing hot water in a heat exchanger;
recycling of fuel waste. You can burn anything in this stove;
ease of manufacture and repair.

high temperature around the stove, causing materials on the floor and walls to ignite. The potbelly stove needs protection with screens;
high temperature inside the boiler, which leads to burnout of the metal inside the structure (on the top surface, in the grates, the back surface of the stove and the chimney);
increased burning rate inside the boiler, due to which the fuel does not burn completely;
high fuel consumption;
high degree of air drying;
formation of mineral deposits on the walls of the recuperator with running water;
the need to monitor the room temperature. If the water in the apparatus freezes, it will destroy the pipes.

As you can see from the table, a potbelly stove has a lot of disadvantages, so if you decide to install this design, you will have to take into account all its weaknesses.

Construction of a potbelly stove: features, principle of operation, arrangement of heat exchangers

A potbelly stove with a water circuit works as follows:

Firewood is loaded into the firebox.
They light a fire, the heat is transferred directly to the water tank or the recuperator coil.
The heating or water supply system receives hot water.
Remaining heat and flammable gases are removed from the room through the chimney.
The ashes fall through the grate into the ash pan.

The design of the water circuit unit uses two energy harvesting principles:

Photo gallery: common types of heat exchangers

If it is necessary to heat a small volume of water, the heat exchanger can be installed directly on the chimney. The direct collection heat exchanger is exposed to large temperature changes, so it must be made of thick-walled pipes In this design there is no intermediate heat exchanger; the water is heated in a tank installed directly on the stove
Heat exchanger with large area contact with fire will heat the water as efficiently as possible, but will burn out faster
A pipe wound onto the stove body heats the water using the energy of the hot walls.

Mineral salts form inside the boiler. Therefore, instead of water, it is more advisable to use antifreeze or antifreeze, which contain additives that prevent the formation of mineral deposits.
The most common heat exchanger designs:

a water tank built into the stove - a capacitive boiler;
tube boiler - a tank in the form of a water jacket around a stove or chimney - a capacitive heat exchanger;
main boilers - a coil spiral or a water conduit passing through the active heat transfer zone.

Calculation of the main parameters of a potbelly stove with a water circuit

To calculate the dimensions of a stove with a water circuit, you need a drawing, drawing or sketch of the future device. This will help avoid manufacturing errors.

Having chosen a suitable project, we determine the parameters: length, height, width. We calculate the dimensions of the combustion chamber, the length and diameter of the pipe, and the height above the floor.
A potbelly stove is characterized by high temperatures inside the boiler, so metal with a thickness of more than 3 mm should be used. Or carry out scheduled repairs every 2-3 years.

Thick-walled alloy metal is used in the manufacture of potbelly stoves

You may also be interested in an article about making metal furnace for garage: .

Preparatory work before assembling the heater

A potbelly stove is a source of increased fire hazard. Therefore, when placing it in a corner of the room or near a wall, you must:

The removal of heat by the water circuit from the boiler core lowers the combustion temperature and reduces the thermal radiation of the furnace. The heat exchanger affects the combustion process like a bucket of water on a fire. A cold recuperator zone appears inside the firebox, which prevents the fuel from completely burning, causing the formation of soot in the chimney and smoke above. chimney. The stove will smoke constantly.

Required materials and tools

To make a temporary stove you will need the following tools and materials:

Bulgarian.
Electric or gas welding.
Electric drill and drill bits.
Tools: pliers, hammer, file, sanding paper, ruler, tap.
Plumbing: American fittings, nuts for fittings, swivel taps, adapters.
Sealant or silicone for fittings.
Alloy steel sheet metal.

The following can be used as a basis for making a furnace:

If the specified materials are at hand, it means that 2/3 of the design of the future stove is already ready. All that remains is to assemble everything into a single device.

Manufacturing a heater and installing a main boiler on the chimney of a potbelly stove

Choose available material for the manufacture of the device. We take into account that an aluminum recuperator requires twice as much material as a copper one due to its thermal conductivity properties.
To install a stove with a heat exchanger 500 mm high you will need:

Copper or aluminum tube with a diameter of 16 mm and a length of 50 m.
Gas cylinder or compressed gas cylinder.
Chimney pipe with a diameter of 150–210 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for making a temporary shed with a boiler:

Video: potbelly stove with water circuit

Installation of a capacitive heat exchanger on the chimney of a potbelly stove

We assemble a capacitive recuperator using the diagram.

With the help of a potbelly stove it is very convenient to fill the storage tank with hot water

Step-by-step assembly of a stove with a water jacket:

We take a pipe with a diameter of 250–300 mm or use a carbon dioxide cylinder.
Taking a thick sheet of metal, we cut out two metal square plates with a grinder. The size of the plates is slightly larger than the diameter of the cylinder (350x350 mm).
Holes for the firebox and ash pan are cut one below the other using a grinder
We make holes inside the plates for the chimney (118 mm). Using a grinder, cut out holes of the same diameter at the top and bottom of the cylinder. We make a pipe from a cylinder.
Solder two nuts with a diameter of 35–50 mm to the carbon dioxide cylinder. The top one is 3–5 centimeters from one end. The second one is at the same distance from the bottom edge.
Carefully weld the outer sides of both nuts.
In the lower and upper parts of the carbon dioxide cylinder, nuts are welded to which pipes with coolant will be supplied
We weld metal plates to the expansion tank pipe.
We burn through holes inside the plates. We process the hole with a file.
We insert the chimney into the resulting structure.
We weld it to the plates or to the edges of the cylinder. Trim off the excess. We process the seams with a file.
At the final stage, the chimney is attached, and the welding seams are processed with a file.
We fill the system with water and check for leaks. We carry out hydraulic tests as in the previous case. Recommended pressure is 2–4 atmospheres.
A main-type water system requires a circulation pump installed on the return line, i.e., on the lower tube.
A device with a capacitive tank requires a circulation pump if the diameter of the outlets is less than 75 mm.
It is necessary to provide a place for draining water.
You cannot heat the stove without water - the heat exchanger may burn out.
After use, the water must be drained.

The temperature change in the heat exchanger occurs due to the combustion rate of the furnace. The heat turns into radiation, the water heats up in the chimney, and after another half an hour in the pipes. The system is inertial due to the high heat capacity of water, so a large supply of fuel is needed.

A potbelly stove is a flammable structure; it is necessary to start and place a fire extinguisher and a hook nearby.

Oven cleaning and repair

With regular use, the chimney needs to be cleaned. The appearance of a 2-3 mm layer of soot reduces draft and reduces heat transfer.
Can be disassembled chimney and clean it with a brush, but this is labor-intensive and not always possible. If the potbelly stove is used daily, then you should clean the chimney with fire:

The main measures for furnace repair are:

Pipe repair. The chimney pipe is the weakest point of a potbelly stove. If it burns out, it needs to be changed.
Heat exchanger repair. The main heat exchanger can be removed by unsoldering it from the furnace body. But the capacitive circuit will have to be welded again in a few years.
Elimination of defects in the furnace body. If a wall or back surface burns through, a metal patch is usually welded onto that area. The cracks can be sealed with scraps of metal rods.

All operations are quite simple and understandable, so servicing the potbelly stove will not cause any big problems.

Video: potbelly stove for the garage and chimney cleaning

The stove invented by Benjamin Franklin has been serving us for the third hundred years. It is still easy to manufacture and unpretentious to operate. A potbelly stove with a water jacket is not only about heating and cooking. This is hot water in the house, on garden plot, in a garage, warehouse or construction site. New technologies have made this stove relevant today.

Any a private house, cottage, bathhouse and sometimes even garage require heating in winter time of the year. But any prudent owner is faced with the question of how to reduce fuel costs and use the heating device more efficiently. One of the modern promising directions increasing efficiency - using the heat of hot exhaust gases.

I welcome my dear reader and bring to your attention an article about what a heat exchanger for a chimney pipe is and how to make it yourself.

Heat exchanger is a device for transferring heat from a heated medium to a colder one. One principle, many designs. A heat exchanger for a chimney allows you to select part of the energy of the exhaust gases and use it to heat an adjacent room or heat hot water.

Devices for extracting heat from flue gases for a chimney can only be used if the pipe is made of steel. It is not possible to install a heat exchanger on modern ceramic and sandwich structures, since the outer surface of the insulated pipe is cold.

The gases coming from modern gas and pellet boilers are not hot – about 200 °C, so you won’t be able to get a lot of heat from the chimney. Solid fuel boilers emit hotter gases - up to 600 °C, and the recuperator allows you to obtain a fairly significant amount of heat for heating or heating water.

The maximum amount of heat from exhaust gases can be obtained by using not very modern traditional stoves, fireplaces, and homemade potbelly stoves. The efficiency of these heating devices is low, the temperature of the flue gases is high, so a considerable part of the wasted heat can be captured using a heat sink. The use of heat collectors on the chimney of a homemade potbelly stove allows you to capture up to 30-40% additional energy.

The main reason for installing a heat exchanger is that it allows you to maximize the use of fuel combustion energy and save on heating costs. In addition, sometimes when heating small houses It is not economically feasible to purchase a heating device with a heat exchanger and install a heating system.

A modern fireplace or stove heats well houses with an area of up to 70 m² and even more; only some rooms need heating - bathrooms or back bedrooms, second floor rooms or attics, so for their heating you can use the heat from the recuperator for the chimney. Sometimes a chimney heat exchanger is used to heat water.

Principle of operation

The operating principle of a heat exchanger for chimneys is heat recovery through a heat-conducting wall. In this case, the coolants move in one or different directions. In a counterflow design, coolants move in opposite or perpendicular directions, in a direct flow design - in parallel.

Types and designs

Heat exchangers are primarily divided according to the coolant into air and liquid (water). In principle, it is allowed to fill in oil and antifreeze, but not in homemade designs, since antifreeze is poisonous and expensive, and the oil can catch fire if leaks occur.

By design, water devices are usually made in the form of a coil or register (pipe) with water ( water jacket); air ones are a cap with warm air removal or a wide insert into the chimney with welded transverse elements.

When deciding how to remove the residual heat of flue gases, you should keep in mind that condensation may fall on the heated walls of the chimney. This drawback is especially noticeable in gas boilers, in which the temperature of the exhaust gases is low. But on inexpensive ones homemade stoves Condensation can be ignored.

Water

The advantage of water for recovery is that it has a high heat capacity and more efficiently removes the heat from the flue gases. But water recuperators require higher quality manufacturing - the system cannot leak; When operating it, it is necessary to ensure that there is no overheating, since boiling water can rupture the pipeline.

If water structures are used in a garage, workshop, “weekend cottage,” or a free-standing bathhouse, the water will have to be drained in the winter, since frozen liquid can also rupture the pipeline.

A circuit with water is heated through the metal walls of the chimney; when heated, the water rises up, then into the batteries, cools, falls down in the battery, goes into the return line and is sucked back into the heat exchanger.

To optimize the operation of the system, an expansion tank is included in it - this reduces the possibility of boiling. Some craftsmen install a pump, which creates a complete small heating system.

Water systems are used for heating using radiators or hot water supply. A serious drawback is the inability to regulate the heating temperature of the water; if it overheats, it simply has to be drained. Pour into the system cold water When the heating unit is running, it is impossible - the water can boil, rupture the pipes and damage the chimney, while condensation settles on the inner walls of the chimney pipe.

Homemade coil

The easiest design to make. The coil is usually made from a tube that is wound in a spiral around a steel chimney. Tubes use copper, ordinary steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Aluminum should not be used for solid fuel boilers - its melting point is 660 °C, and the temperature of the exhaust gases of solid fuel heating devices reaches 600 °C.

When winding (bending), the pipe should be filled with sand and sealed on both sides - this will avoid defects (kinks, folds, kinks). To improve the heating of the coil, there should be a small distance between the turns - up to 1 diameter.

But it is not the most durable coil material (especially galvanized carbon steel).

Register - a casing with a larger diameter than the chimney. The register is placed on top of the chimney body and welded, the ends are welded with plates with cut holes corresponding to the diameter of the chimney. A pipe is welded or screwed in at the bottom for water supply, and at the top for discharging warm water. Otherwise it is used in the same way as a coil. The casings are made not only round, but also square.

Air

This option is more suitable for local heating of premises - one room, bathroom, dressing room. Air structures are easier to assemble. Sometimes a coil or register is used, sometimes a Kuznetsov or bell-type heat exchanger is used. The coil has too much resistance from the pipe walls; it should not be too long. Because of these difficulties, it is rarely used. Air recuperators cool the chimney less, so there is less chance of condensation forming on its walls.

Sometimes they do not build complex structures, but use available materials - they weld ribs from corners or bent strips to the chimney, pipes open on both sides, attach “skirts” or strips (aluminum or thin steel) bent into a corrugated structure.

Kuznetsov heat exchanger

The Kuznetsov heat exchanger is an expanded cylinder, across which pipes are welded. The cylinder is mounted in the chimney, hot flue gases flow through the inside and heat cross members. The air from the cavities exits into the room and heats it or is collected in an air duct and enters the adjacent room.

Bell type

If in small house There are no heating systems and there is a need to heat a room in the attic or second floor; a bell-type heat exchanger is used. A cylinder is installed around the chimney, open at the bottom; at the top, air from the cylinder enters pipes going to the second floor. Warm air is released in the lower part of the room on the second floor - this way the hot air is better distributed in the room and heats it as much as possible.

Sometimes, instead of a cylinder above the stove, a hood is installed under the ceiling; air heated by the stove rises into it and flows through pipes into the room on the second floor. You can install a fan, in this case warm air It is easier to heat a room on the same floor as the stove.

Which type is better

Which type is better is determined by what exactly needs to be heated and in what way. The efficiency is better for water recuperators - 50-60% (for a register parameter it is higher, for a coil it is lower). Air devices have lower efficiency.

For hot water supply or radiator heating systems, it is better to install water heat exchangers. Air heaters are more suitable for heating closely spaced individual rooms.

Power calculations

Independently calculate the power of the recuperator in the absence of initial data (furnace power, temperature and amount of exhaust gases per unit of time, contact area of the heat exchanger and the metal of the chimney, speed of passage of air or water through the device) almost impossible. You can measure the power of an already installed heat exchanger.

Roughly, you should expect that the heat exchanger on the chimney of a solid fuel stove or fireplace will warm up a couple of small radiators, increase the temperature in the garage, or make a room in the attic or a dressing room in a bathhouse warmer.

Buy or make it yourself

If you want to increase the heat transfer from an expensive purchased boiler, it is better to buy ready-made high-quality devices - the industry produces them in a sufficient range. But if you want to modernize either your garage or increase the efficiency of your fireplace with steel pipe at the dacha - you can save a lot of money by making and installing a heat exchanger on the chimney with your own hands. Installing a heat exchanger by a hired specialist will cost the same as the structure itself.

The simplest option - a coil - can easily be made by a home hobbyist even without much experience, and for home handyman, who has at least some welding skills, can handle more complex structures.

approximate price

The cost of industrially manufactured chimney heat exchangers varies depending on the design and manufacturer.

Running heat exchanger tanks for a chimney with a diameter of 115 mm and a capacity of 6 liters cost rubles; those with a capacity of 12 liters cost rubles.

How to make your own device

It’s easy to make a simple coil yourself from a copper tube. For a chimney with a diameter of 100 mm, a copper pipe with a diameter of ¼ inch and a length of 3-4 m is suitable. Threaded fittings should be soldered to the ends of the pipe. Then the tube is filled with fine sand, twisted and wrapped around the chimney.

It is advisable to leave a small distance between the turns - then the pipe from the chimney will be heated by both heat transfer and infrared radiation. It is convenient to do this work with an assistant. The sand is then washed out of the pipe with water under pressure. Connect the pipes leading to the radiators and expansion tank.

The Kuznetsov heat exchanger is made using welding. The simplest option is to make a housing from a gas cylinder or large diameter pipe.

For manufacturing you will need the following materials:

Gas cylinder, large diameter pipe (300 mm) for the housing.
Pipe with a diameter of 32 mm (it is better to take one piece with a larger diameter - up to 57 mm). The length of the blanks is 300-400 mm, the total quantity should be sufficient for cutting the blanks.
Two small pipes of the same diameter as the chimney; It is advisable to use a chimney pipe - if the chimney is prefabricated, then on one side of the structure the pipe will have a socket, which is necessary for installing the heat exchanger.
Two pieces of steel sheet, sufficient to cut out the end caps of the housing.

Air heat exchanger manufacturing technology:

A large pipe or cylinder is cut to the required size.
9 blanks of the same length are cut from thin pipes.
Circles are cut out for the plugs.
9 holes for small diameter pipes are cut in the circles; if one tube of larger diameter is taken, then a hole for it is cut in the center.
Thin pipes are inserted into the holes of the plugs, attached by welding, and then welded.

Holes with a diameter equal to the diameter of the chimney are cut in the sides of the body.

A structure of thin tubes and plugs is inserted into the body and welded at the junction of the plugs and the body of a large pipe.

The pipes are inserted into the holes on the sides of the body and also boiled.

Alternative option:

What materials can be used

Perfect option - stainless steel(for example, food grade austenitic stainless steel 08Х18Н10 or AISI 304) or copper. Industrially produced products are sometimes made of titanium. But the price of these materials is quite high. But they are durable, do not rust, are reliable and durable. If you have a potbelly stove in the garage or a homemade heater from scrap materials in the bathhouse, it is quite possible to use ferrous metal (carbon steel).

You can use a high-quality corrugated stainless steel pipe. Galvanized corrugation is an undesirable and short-lived option. Aluminum pipes can also be used for the coil (just not for chimneys of solid fuel stoves).

But it should be kept in mind that when welding work ah, the zinc layer evaporates, and all the advantages of galvanizing (corrosion resistance) disappear. At temperatures above 400 °C, zinc begins to evaporate (zinc vapor is toxic), so you should not use galvanization for heat exchangers on the chimneys of solid fuel boilers.

The waste furnaces have a simple design and run on cheap fuel - waste oil. The most stable and safe operation can be achieved by designing a drip supply of oil from a remote tank. Drip-type stoves are easy to make with your own hands from waste materials and scrap metal.

The furnace usually consists of a cylindrical body or has rectangular shape. There is a combustion chamber inside. In its lower part there is a container for waste oil and an air suction hole.

When heated, the oil begins to evaporate, and its vapors mix with the air in the chamber. This mixture rises under the influence of convection up the firebox, where it burns, releasing a large amount of thermal energy.

An air or water heat exchanger can be built into the upper part of the housing, this will allow you to heat the entire area of the room more completely and evenly or install a hot water supply circuit.
Drip supply is carried out through a metal tube connected to the oil evaporator. The other end of the tube is brought out and connected to the tank using a flexible hose.

At the top of the stove there is a smoke pipe connected to the chimney. The temperature at the top of the stove, even if equipped with a heat exchanger, is high, so it must be installed in strict compliance with fire safety regulations.

It is not recommended to make an open drip feed oven! Oil may ignite!

Drawings of a furnace in operation with drip irrigation are shown in the figure.

What can it be made from?

Thanks to its simple design, an oil-drip furnace can be made with your own hands from almost any material: sheet iron, old barrel, gas cylinder. The only condition is that the walls should not be thinner than 4 mm, otherwise the body will move when fired.

Simple and reliable way- do it yourself. Its body is durable and can withstand high pressure and heat, and its dimensions are just right for a stove, a workshop or a small private house. When used carefully, such a stove is safe, easy to clean and light. The operation of the furnace is shown in the video.

Watch video: furnace in operation

Necessary materials

gas cylinder 50 liters - used, but without damage to the body;
metal pipe Ø100, with a wall thickness of at least 3.5 m - about two meters;
scraps of metal equal-angle corner 40-50 mm for the heat exchanger, stand and other small parts;
sheet steel 4 mm, you can also use scraps of a suitable size;
cast iron brake disc from a passenger car;
a standard size used freon cylinder with a working needle valve;
metal pipe ½ inch - about half a meter;
a hose of a suitable diameter that can be put on a ½-inch pipe and clamps;
½ inch ball valve;
door hinges and latch for the firebox door.

An air heat exchanger will also require a duct fan and pipes of a suitable diameter. You can use a corrugated pipe or components for a chimney.

Preparing the balloon

The gas cylinder, even after prolonged ventilation, contains gas condensate. To remove it, you need to remove the gearbox and valve from it and set it to Fresh air for a couple of days.

After this, a hole is very carefully drilled in the bottom of the cylinder. To avoid sparks, the drill must be moistened with oil. Drilling a hole in thick metal is difficult, so it is better to start with a drill of a smaller diameter, and then drill it out to the required size. The result should be a hole with a diameter of 10-16 mm.

The drilled container is filled with water and, after standing for 24 hours, it is drained. Condensate has a pungent and extremely unpleasant odor, so it must be drained carefully and away from residential areas. You can repeat the procedure to rinse the balloon properly.

Furnace body

The cylinder is conventionally divided into two unequal parts: the lower - 1/3 of the height, and the upper - 2/3. Openings are cut out in both parts, approximately a quarter of the circle in width. The execution of the openings is shown in the photo.

Cut out the holes using a grinder, trying to make an even cut - the cut pieces of metal will then be used to make doors.

The interior of the cylinder is washed again with water under pressure from a hose. This will help completely wash away any remaining gas condensate.

The oven compartments must be separated metal insert. It is cut out with your own hands from 4 mm sheet metal to the size of the cylinder.

This circle forms chamber bottom combustion of oil vapors. The resulting chamber is quite large in size, which allows you to use the stove for burning wood or briquettes, as well as burn garbage in it. Try the bottom in place and adjust it if necessary.

Burner made with your own hands from a piece of pipe Ø100 mm, length - 20 cm. In it. using a drill and a metal drill bit. make holes with a diameter of 10 mm.

The holes are placed around the circumference in a checkerboard pattern until approximately the middle of the burner.
After drilling the holes, the inside of the pipe is carefully ground so that there are no burrs left. Soot and soot will settle on them during the operation of the stove.

The burner is installed in the previous part - the bottom of the upper chamber, after which the joint is welded using a welding machine.

The resulting part is installed in place - in the furnace body between the chambers. Place it with the perforated part down. The holes are designed for free air suction.

Pallet for working off, forming the bottom of the lower chamber, do it yourself from a car brake disc suitable diameter. You can take a used disk. Cast iron is a heat-resistant material; in addition, the design of the disk makes the lower part of the stove heavier and makes it more stable.

Welded to the bottom of the disk plug, to close the holes. It is cut out of 4 mm sheet metal.

They make it out of it top cover with an opening. The shape of the opening should allow the counter part of the burner to be welded and allow free access to air.

The bottom of the burner is welded to the lid - a piece of pipe Ø100 mm, length - 10 cm.

A coupling is used to connect the burner parts. You can make it yourself from a Ø100 mm pipe, cut lengthwise and slightly bent. coupling necessary in order to make the burner design detachable. By lifting it, you can remove the oil pan and clean it, as well as remove soot from the top of the chamber and burner.

Oil supply system

In do-it-yourself drip-type furnaces, oil is supplied from an external tank using an adjustable dropper. In the furnace design under consideration, a used freon cylinder is used as a dropper. The main condition is the serviceability of its needle valve.

A hole is cut in the lower part of the cylinder of such a size that it is convenient to fill the waste from a canister or other container. You can install a mesh on the filler hole; it will serve as a coarse filter. Oil tank should be located above the level of the stove, so brackets for suspension can be welded to the body. A hose is connected to the cylinder valve using a clamp.

A hole is made in the furnace body, positioning it on the installation side of the oil tank. The diameter of the hole should allow the installation of a half-inch oil supply pipe.

A piece of the required length is cut from the pipe and a thread is cut at one end, and the other is cut at an angle so as to direct the stream of oil exactly into the opening in the pan.

The pipe is welded to the body. The seam is cleaned.

Screw onto the other end of the pipe, equipped with a thread. ball valve. During assembly, a squeegee with the free end of the oil hose is connected to the valve.

Heat exchanger

In this oven the heat exchanger is not required element. If you need to heat small room without partitions, the heat from the walls of the oven will be enough. But for greater efficiency, it is recommended to make an air or water heat exchanger located in the upper chamber.

As a heat exchanger, use a piece of pipe Ø100 mm of such length that its ends extend beyond the body by 10-20 cm on both sides. Two holes are made in the housing on opposite sides through which this pipe is passed. It is secured by welding.

A flame divider made of sheet iron is welded above the heat exchanger. It will break the flame into tongues, due to which the heat transfer to the walls and pipe of the heat exchanger will increase.

A swirler is installed inside the air heat exchanger. It is necessary to accelerate air flows and better heat removal. It is made from a steel strip or angle, divided into bent blades.

Air ducts are connected to the heat exchanger pipe. They can be made from an uninsulated chimney pipe and corresponding corner elements. On one side, a duct fan is installed into the air duct. The fan can be connected to the network directly or through the contacts of a thermal relay, installing it on the fan housing and adjusting the temperature experimentally.

Doors and shut-off valves

Doors are made from the cylinder fragments cut off at the first stage, with hinges and a valve welded to them.

A hole is made on the bottom door to improve air supply. It is more convenient to do it at the bottom.

To seal the top door, stop plates are made from a steel strip. They are mounted on rivets.

The door lock can have absolutely any design; you can make it yourself, since the door is opened infrequently, only to remove soot or when burning the stove with solid fuel.

Smoke pipe and chimney

A smoke pipe from a piece of pipe Ø100 mm is welded to the top of the gas cylinder, having previously cut a hole of a suitable diameter. Inner surface The smoke pipe is cleaned of scale to avoid soot deposits.

The chimney is made from a stainless sandwich pipe, assembled from the necessary elements. It can be brought out both through the ceilings and through the wall.

The flue gases in the exhaust furnace have a high temperature, which is why the chimney pipe can burn out! Do not use uninsulated pipes or wall penetrations to avoid fire!

Video: drip-type mini-oven

Video: Inferno oven, part 1 and part 2

Ignition and operation

Light up a cold furnace during mining - not an easy task. Oil vapors only burn when heated. Therefore, you have to ignite it with the help of other flammable liquids - gasoline, alcohol. They are poured thin layer on top of the oil in the pan and set it on fire.

When burning they heat up upper layer working off, the oil begins to evaporate, and the furnace starts in operating mode. After this, open the valve on the oil supply hose and adjust its flow into the furnace. To stop the furnace, simply close the valve. The fuel supply will stop and as soon as the oil in the pan burns out, the stove will go out.

Cleaning the stove from soot and soot is done using metal or small gravel, throwing it into the chimney. Passing along the walls of the chimney, the gravel knocks off the soot, and it falls inside the combustion chamber. Open the door and sweep away the soot with a brush. Then they take out the pan, clean out sediment and fallen soot, gravel and other contaminants from it.

At correct operation and compliance with fire safety, a stove made from a gas cylinder can serve for many years. It is not recommended to install it in a residential area due to unpleasant odor, accompanying the combustion of waste, but it can be installed in the boiler room and. In this case, a drip-type stove can be used to heat a private house.

A gas boiler - unit for generating thermal energy for space heating or heating water by burning gaseous fuel. It is possible to make such a device yourself.

Even a minimal deviation from the prescribed standards leads to a complete ban on the use of homemade structures, therefore only a person who has knowledge should make a gas boiler themselves great experience in installation and maintenance of such installations.

Types of water gas boiler for heating a private house

The operating principle of gas heating boilers is as follows: the heat generated by the combustion of gas is transferred to the liquid, which then moves along heating system, heating the room. There are differences in the design of different types of gas boilers.

Wall

The main parts include:

Burner- rectangular design with located in in a certain order holes through which gas is supplied from the nozzles below.
The combustion chamber.
Heat exchanger - one or two. A scheme with two units involves installing a primary device in the form of copper pipes with plate fins above the burner. This allows the heat of the gas flame to be transferred directly to the coolant with maximum efficiency.
Secondary heat exchanger usually performed in the form of a set of thin metal plates, passing through which running water heated by hot coolant.
Gas valve , controlled by an automation system, regulates the degree of fuel supply.
Heating supply and return pipelines.
Diaphragm tank .
Electrical unit.
Fan helps remove carbon dioxide from the unit through the chimney.
Circulation pump .
Automation system— a set of sensors that analyze the state of nodes and connections to input and output routes, and an actuator that generates the necessary control signals.

Floor

Differs from wall method fastenings, and also, since its weight is limited, manufacturers equip it with a cast iron heat exchanger, which is of higher quality and more reliable.

Floor models- single-circuit units with open camera combustion, in which minimum of various automation and control devices.

Burner.
The combustion chamber.
Heat exchanger.
Expansion tank — excess liquid is drained into it.
Gas valve.
Electrical unit
Fan.
Lamellar heat exchanger
Pump.
Automation system.

From a cylinder

The basis of the design is a gas cylinder for 50 l(heats the room up to 70 sq. m). A piston with a lower nozzle is immersed into the cylinder.
The nozzle is a hollow pipe, through which combustion air enters.
A “pancake” of slightly smaller diameter is welded at the bottom of the piston than a balloon. Arc-shaped blades welded to it create a vortex flow over the smoldering fuel.
Chimney pipe.
The upper part of the cylinder after installing the handles on it used as a cover.
The pump provides forced circulation.

Photo 1. Gas boiler made from a cylinder. The device is connected to the water heating circuit.

How to make a gas boiler with your own hands

Manufacturing gas boiler consists of several stages.

Project selection, drawings

Having decided on self-production gas boiler, find a suitable project with drawings. They should contain details about heating boilers, connections, cooling, chimney, deflector and other nuances.

Attention! Before you start manufacturing, have a good understanding of the drawings and find photos of finished circuits. Any inaccuracy or change will adversely affect future operation.

During production take into account heat loss in each room where heating is planned. Even in rooms with equal areas, heat transfer will be different.

Photo 2. Drawing of a wall-mounted gas boiler. The arrows indicate the components heating device.

Calculations are carried out with a margin of 10%, focusing on the actual sizes of objects.

Reference. The simplest way to calculate: for every 10 sq. meters of area required 1 kW energy. Calorific value of gas - 6.55 kW.

The amount of energy consumed by the boiler per day is divided by its calorific value And This is how you get the required volume of the boiler.

Thus, you need:

calculate all hydraulic system;
take into account the costs of the chimney, including the deflector;
decide in advance on the diameter of the pipes;
set the required pump power;
calculate the system resistance.

Photo 3. Drawing of a gas heating boiler. The dimensions of the device and its components are indicated.

Materials

After choosing a project the master calculates the amount of materials to the heating boiler. You cannot replace the mentioned metal with another to reduce the cost of installation: it may turn out to be softer, and this will render the structure unusable.

Materials for work:

metal and gas pipes;
steel sheet;
doors for creating a firebox;
brick;
fittings;
clay;
moisture-proofing material (tar);
cement;
galvanized sheet.

Important! Some components like thermostat or deflector, It’s easier to purchase in a specialized store rather than create it yourself.

What to look for when choosing purchased parts for gas boilers:

It is better to choose programmable thermostats to use them to control and regulate the boiler temperature. Domestic analogues are not inferior to foreign models in quality.

Photo 4. Programmable thermostat for a gas boiler. Using it you can set the appropriate temperature.

The deflector is installed on top of the chimney pipe and provides exhaust. Suitable as a cone-shaped umbrella made of stainless steel.
Automation includes: flame control module, overheat protection, draft controller, blast valve. For stable operation of the unit, all of the listed devices are needed.

Tools:

welding machine;
soldering iron;
set of screwdrivers and keys;
hammers;
pliers;
level;
corner;
roulette;
welding tool;
thermostat;
automation;
deflector.

Making a device, homemade heat exchanger

Construction stages:

The easiest way is to make a floor with your own hands gas boiler, which is installed on the foundation. That's why they pull it out first a hole about 80 centimeters deep. Sand is poured onto its bottom, filled with water and allowed to soak. Then stones, broken bricks and gravel are laid out a little below ground level.

Assemble the formwork with the frame and fill it with concrete mortar, after a day it is removed. The place under the formwork is covered with gravel and sand and covered with moisture-proofing material.
Lay out a wall of brick and cement composition, protecting the main wall from a heated gas boiler. Height and width of a brick wall 10 cm more than the dimensions of the boiler.
Sheets are cut according to drawings, prepare corners, tubes, internal parts.
The parts are assembled into a single system. Before this step, watch a video showing the process. Incorrect arrangement of components leads to inoperability of the structure. When performing welding work, we must not forget about safety: the master puts on protective gloves, a special mask and work clothes.
A heat exchanger is made from a steel tank and a copper tube, thanks to which the water in the boiler is heated. Two holes are made at the top and bottom of the tank, corresponding to the diameter of the tube. The tube is bent into a spiral and inserted into the tank. Fittings are installed at the ends of the tube coming out of the tank.
After assembly, the edges are cleaned and the unit is painted. The latter is done to prevent condensation from appearing during the cold season and the metal does not begin to rust.
After installing the boiler, a chimney is welded to the side- metal pipe not less than 20 cm along which he will leave carbon dioxide from the unit. A hole is cut in the roof and the pipe is lifted by 30-40 cm over the roof. The gaps between it and the roof are filled with foam and mineral wool.
An uninterruptible power supply is connected to the boiler. The stabilizer is attached nearby in a dry place where water will not get in. It should not be overheated or frozen.

Connection to the heating system

The law establishes that before installing a gas boiler the owner must obtain permission for installation in Gorgaz.

Shut-off valves are purchased for the forward and return heating pipelines— “American” taps, allowing the boiler to be dismantled in the event of an emergency.
To the coolant return pipeline install a filter mechanical cleaning water.
Install shut-off valves on the gas pipeline, to which the boiler will be connected, in the form of a gas tap and a gas filter.
Connect the gas pipe supplying fuel. All joints and connections are sealed.
Connect the boiler to the water supply network And hot water supply pipeline.

Difficulties in manufacturing, how to make the boiler more economical

The rules prohibit the supply of gas to basements and ground floors buildings, so the owner must allocate a separate room in the house, meeting the standards, otherwise the installation of the unit will not be approved by the services.

Trying to save money on automatic heating equipment leads to overheating of the heating system and even rupture of pipelines.

Overheating also occurs due to lack of circulation. In this case, check the pump, filter and overheating thermostat.

Incorrect calculations the required power will lead to the fact that the heat received from the boiler will not be enough to heat the premises.

If the pressure does not rise when the boiler heats up, then the tightness of the system may be compromised And connections need to be tightened, then add a little pressure.

Problems may arise if, when drafting the features of a particular object were not taken into account: power surges in the network, low fuel quality, insufficient gas pressure, not organized proper ventilation or recommendations for permissible distances from the boiler to other equipment and walls. During repairs, it will be necessary to modernize the engineering work.

Useful video

Watch a video review of a homemade gas boiler from a car radiator.

Conclusion

The boiler is the most an important part individual heating system. That's why Great attention is paid to its construction and installation. The owner of the house weighs the pros and cons of a homemade boiler in advance.